奥能登国際芸術祭企画公募資料

Oku-Noto Triennale2020 Call for Proposals Tour of Suzu Document

〜 Summary 〜

Oku-Noto Triennale Executive Committee 2 Table of Contents

About Suzu City ・・・・・・4

Satoumi of Suzu ・・・・・・5

Traditional industries inherited ・・・・・ 7

Life in Satoyama ・・・・・・8

Noto Line and Maritime Route ・・・・・・8

Festivals and rituals ・・・・・・9

3 About Suzu City

Suzu City is located on the cutting edge of the Noto Peninsula and is surrounded by the sea on three sides. It is a town with a beautiful natural landscape with two oceans: Sotoura on the rough reef coast (Japan Sea side) and Uchiura on the calm sandy beach (Toyama Bay side). There are still streets that make you feel the original scenery of Japan. There are many unique cultures that were nurtured in the rich Satoyama Satoumi, and local cultures such as “Festival Culture” symbolized by the “Oku-Noto Suzu Autumn Festival and Yobare” and the Agricultural rite “Ae-no-koto” are now living. Rooted traditional industries such as Agehama method salt production, charcoal grilling, Suzu-yaki, and the seven wheels using diatomaceous earth have been handed down carefully, and the rich Satoyama Satoumi, including these traditional industries and agricultural rituals, was designated as Noto Satoyama Satokai in 2011. In 2014, it was recognized as Globally Important Agricultural Heritage Systems (GIAHS). In addition, the promotion of a human resource development project (Noto Satoyama Satoumi Meister) for utilizing the environment of Satoyama-Satoumi in cooperation with Kanazawa University for the promotion of urban-rural communities was awarded the Platinum Award in 2015. Various efforts such as being certified as a “SDGs (Sustainable Development Goals) Future City” in the year have been evaluated.

△Sotoumi in the twilight △ Satoyama rice terraces △Scenery of deep-fried beach salt making

In Suzu, there are many “village festivals” that celebrate the harvest of grains in each village throughout the seasons. Especially in the autumn season, the autumn festivals are held in many villages in Suzu every day for about 50 days from early September to late October. In the autumn festivals, we will carry “Kiriko” as the light of the shrine. Kiriko is said to have more than 100 in Suzu. When it comes to festivals, there is a custom called Yobare, where the master behaves and drinks at home to help Kiriko's bearers work hard. In Suzu City, Yobare is still held at almost all festivals, and it serves relatives and friends with festival dishes. In Suzu, the original Japanese hospitality culture remains. This “Oku-Noto Suzu Autumn Festival and Yobare” won the 19th “Furusato Event Grand Prize” by the Minister of Internal Affairs and Communications. In 2015, the “Landing peninsula Noto: Kiriko Festival of Enthusiasm” was certified as a Japanese Heritage, and the festival culture of Oku-Noto Suzu is highlighted. Suzu has beautiful “Satoyama Satoumi”, rich “food”, and most important “people”. It is a town where you can learn about Japanese festivals and the origins of food culture.

△Kirico gathering in the shrine △ Yobare △ Kiriko in operation 4 Satoumi of Suzu

Sotoura and Uchiura In Suzu, the west coast where the reefs are located is called Sotoura, and the east coast with many sandy beaches is called Uchiura. This contrasting two landscapes are often compared to men and women. The opposite is true: Sotoura is an uplifting beach (born by raising the ground), and Uchiura is a sinking beach (born by rising sea level). In Sotoura, there are many cliffs such as Rokkozaki, which includes a series of rock formations caused by sea erosion and volcanic rocks that have cooled and hardened magma. In winter, the stormy waves from Siberia receive the cold wave of waves, and the surf blossoms that turn into white bubbles cover the coast. This seasonal wind is prevented by setting up a Magaki in villages along the coast. On the other hand, Uchiura facing Toyama Bay is a sandy beach with a gentle curve. Plants grow up to the beach, followed by a quiet sea and gentle scenery. The border between Uchiura and Sotoura is Cape Suzu (Kongozaki). On a clear day, you can see Sado Island in the distance.

△Sotoura side where the reef continues △Nie coast △ Uchiura side where sandy beach continues (the Sotoura side)

Two ocean currents nurture a rich fishing ground The Noto Peninsula, shaped like a sickle that protrudes into the sea, has been greatly influenced by two currents: the Liman Current (cold current) and the Tsushima Current (warm current). The Liman Current, cooled in the North Sea and moving south along the Eurasian Continent. The Tsushima Current, which is separated from the Kuroshio Current that flows through the Pacific Ocean and relaxes near the equator, and moves north through the Sea of Japan. These two ocean currents meet off the coast of Noto Peninsula. The offshore of Noto Peninsula is abundant in fish species due to the warm and cold currents. As the ocean current hits the peninsula, an overcurrent occurs and migratory fish stay, so it can be caught in big catches. In Uchiura, we aim for this migratory fish and lay a stationary net. Typical examples are spring sawara, horse mackerel and winter yellowtail. Sayori boat fishing that tells spring. Squid fishing from May to July. In June, flying fish are caught, and "Agodashi" is a food that supports Noto's food. Speaking of summer fish in Hokuriku, it is famous for scallops (a high-class fish pheasant) and Kozokura (under 500g of baby babies), but it also catches abalone and tuna. Also, among the rock oysters, the “Golden rock oyster” that shines golden on the seabed is a valuable ingredient that can only be caught off Suzu. In the fall, barracuda and mackerel reach the season, and the bottom fishnet fishing will be lifted, so you can catch the bottom fish such as barberry, grouper, sweet shrimp, and gas shrimp. On November 6th, crab fishing will also be lifted. From December to mid-February, cod and anglers will be on the market.

Liman Current

Tsushima Current

△ Upload the ship △ A scene of sale at Takojima Port at Takojima Port 5 Interaction with the continent The Korean peninsula, the Bokkai (ancient country)-the connection with the continent The ocean current was a "sea main road" carrying people. Take the Liman Current and go to the coast of Kitakyushu from the eastern side of the Korean peninsula through Tsushima and Iki. If I went offshore and got on the Tsushima Current, I was able to get to Izumo, Wakasa and Hokuriku without difficulty. During the Kofun-Nara period, people from the Korean peninsula actively visited the Noto peninsula to convey continental culture such as steelmaking and shipbuilding. In 713, people from the Hon Hai country, who stood across the continental coast across the Sea of Japan, visited the Noto Peninsula. In Fura (Shika- machi) facing Sotoura, south of Suzu, a “guest house” (a facility like a consulate) was created by Emperor Kanmu. The route between Noto Fukura and Poshet Bay in the Bokkai Sea was connected by land to the Bokkai capital, Kamigyo Longsenfu, and the Tang Dynasty, Changan. Envoys were dispatched 34 times from Hon Hai country and 14 times from Japan. Many merchants, monks, and international students would have taken this ship and moved back and forth between the archipelago and the continent. The prosperity of Suzu ware, the activity of the Kitamae ship Suzu ware started in the middle of the 12th century. The route connecting Kyoto (Wakasa Bay) and remote areas has developed, and the route has been expanded to expand into one quarter of Japan. A kiln was built in Wakayamasho, which was the largest manor in Noto, and it was mainly made of firewood, and sardine by reduced roasting (the iron was blackened and hardened when it was baked before supplying oxygen). I baked daily pottery. In the Edo period, Kitamae ships are active on the Sea of Japan. From Osaka, cotton or liquor, etc. are piled up, and salt, stone, raw wax, etc. are purchased from the coast of the Seto Inland Sea, going to Hokkaido while selling at the port of the Sea of Japan (descent). In Hokkaido, we bought marine products such as herring, kelp and salmon, loaded rice at the port of the Sea of Japan, and sold them in the Seto Inland Sea and Osaka (up). It is said that there was a profit of about 1,000 cars (about 100 million yen) on one route of going down and going up. In Suzu, marine merchants such as Saburoemon Kishida (Shoin) and Kanbei Izumiya (Iida) were also active.

Bokkai

△ △ Sea route with Bokkai Suzu ware pot △ Suzu ware vase

6 Traditional industries inherited

Noto Toji Suzu is also known as the source of Noto Toji. The chief brewer of Sake called Noto Toji. From a long time ago, as a migrant during the agricultural off-season, farmer men were devoted to making sake over a half- year of winter. Noto Toji is from Suzu, especially from Uedo, Horyu and Wakayama. Begins in the middle of Edo. Noto, Nanbu, Echigo and Tajima are counted Japanese four great Toji. The technology of Noto Toji has a high reputation, and they went to Ecchu, Kaga, Omi, and after Meiji Restoration, they went to Mie, Aichi and Shizuoka. In the Taisho period, they moved to Hokkaido, Karafuto and Manshu. In 1936, there was a record that about 4,000 Noto Tojis worked as migrant. Noto Toji, who was scattered all over the country, brought home souvenirs in March over the winter. Bichu Guwa, Ladder Bag, New rice varieties, Sweet potatoes, etc. were transmitted earlier than other regions.

△Sake preparation work △ Sake preparation work △ Local sake in Suzu City Agehama Method Salt Production On the Noto Peninsula, surrounded by the sea, many pottery with sharp bottoms that have been used in salt making since the Yayoi and Kofun periods have been excavated. The large-scale production of salt was made during the Edo period when Kaga was a monopoly. Sprinkle the seawater pumped into the ridge to the salt fields covered with sand and evaporate the water with sunlight and wind. Agehama Method Salt Production is a precious culture and a specialty of Noto, where salt crystals attached to the sand are filtered and stored in “Kansui” and boiled to crystallize the salt. In the past, many salt fields surround the peninsula, and Suzu's salt production boasted the highest production in Sakai. It is said that the saltmen who were in harsh labor were rented rice (salt-handed rice), and all the salt produced was consumed, leading to a difficult life. “Sunatori-bushi”, transmitted to Matsunagi-machi (Otani), is a labor song of Hamashi who sang on a boat rowing to get good sand to the beach about 10 km away. It conveys the breathing of people who rush and encourage each other while suffering from the “blindness” that the strong seasonal wind and seawater can see. The mineral-rich salt of Noto that was made in this way traveled across Japan on a boat. However, in the 18th century, when salt from the cheap Seto Inland Sea was transported by the west route, the salted Noto salt turned into a land route, and the “Salt Road” continued from Okunoto to Hida. ”And cultivated sales channels.

△ △ Prefecture-designated intangible folk △ Nationally designated intangible folk Fried beach type salt farm work cultural property “Sandori-bushi” cultural property “Noto's Yamahama salt making technology” 7 Life in Satoyama

In June 2011, “Noto Satoyama Satoumi” was recognized as a World Agricultural Heritage (GIAHS) of the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO). “Satoyama Satoumi” is a symbol of symbiosis between humans and nature. On the Noto Peninsula, close to mountains, villages and the sea, we have nurtured a unique traditional culture while protecting the ecosystem and beautiful scenery, thanks to the blessings of both the mountains and the sea. Based on agriculture, it is characterized by a lifestyle that also serves as other livelihoods such as fishing and forestry. If you are involved in multiple business activities, the point of contact with nature will be diversified. For example, Noto's salt production is essential for fuel. Cutting the firewood leads to mountain care. Without thinning, the trees will not get fat and will fall down due to wind and snow. In dense forests, understory plants do not grow, preventing water and soil conservation and causing landslides. The mountain's work included charcoal grilling, shiitake cultivation, and woodmaking and lacquer ware. The diversity of people involved was a sign of richness. Satoyama is blessed with food, and you can get abundant wild vegetables, mushrooms and root vegetables. Suzu is the premier matsutake producing area in the prefecture, and has been used in various ways such as matsutake liquor and miso pickles. The bounty of nature has been preserved by the predecessors who were cherished without being seized too much.

△ Sugi Forest in Suzu △ Thinning work △ charcoal grill Noto Line and Maritime Route

It was after the war that the railroad first ran to Suzu. The voice of "Oku Noto also trains!" Was a long- cherished desire of many people since the Meiji period. In 1954, construction progressed from Anamizu Station, which is located almost in the center of the Noto Peninsula, toward the tip. Ten years later, the entire Noto Line was opened (Amimizu-Takojima). However, due to the decrease in passengers, the route became a deficit route, and in 1987, the management shifted to the third sector “Noto Railway Noto Line”. After that, the operation between Anamizu and Takojima ended in 2005, and the track that ran for 41 years was abolished. Currently, some of the station buildings, platforms, and track tracks remain on the old railway line, so you can get a glimpse of the features of the time. As for maritime traffic, the first scheduled service between Iida and Nanao entered service in 1958. It was used as a route to Nanao by sea, connecting Nanao Railway and Hokuriku Line to Kanazawa. Car ferry "Kamome" connecting Iida-Sado entered service in 1975 (later Nanao-Iida-Sado entered Hovercraft "Cygnus"). In 1982, the car ferry “Tamahime” entered service between Iida and Itoigawa, and the sea shortened.

△State of Noto Line opening △ Third sector "Noto Railway" △Car ferry "Kamome"

8 Festivals and rituals Kiriko From summer to autumn, festivals take place every day on the Noto Peninsula. Among them, the brave Kiriko has a gorgeous decoration and a roof, and is carried on a bell or drum while playing a lion. There is also a festival where several giant mushrooms of about 10m appear. In Suzu, this “Kiriko” is often used in the Tanabata Festival and Autumn Festival of the old calendar. Each Kiriko illuminates the darkenss of the night, is surrounded by lively lions and bearers, guides the shrine, and walks back and forth as if it were trying to retain God. Young people in flashy costumes ring drums and bells throughout the night. According to one theory, it is a festival that greets the visiting god once a year, like the legend of Tanabata. On the day of the festival where Kiriko comes out, “Yobare” is held at the houses to welcome guests. Red lacquered, young people who sip sake with guests in front of the festival meals, spend their time in the festival until dawn.

△ Kirico gathering in the precincts △ Yobare △Festival meal

Ae-no-Koto The custom of welcoming the tatami mats is also seen in “Ae-no-Koto”, a hospitality for the god of rice fields. At the beginning of the winter when the rice god who is in the rice field and the rice cultivates finishes his work, the landlord goes to pick him up in a fleeting form, picks him up at his home, treats him and takes a rest until early spring Ritual to do. Depending on the house, the time and manner of use differ, but the god of the field is said to have bad eyes, so people invite him carefully and explain the treats. Special lacquered rice bowl are served with red bean rice, handmade tofu juice, boiled root vegetables and red bee (fish). At the end of the ritual, the gods of the rice field will remain in the seed buds, and the winter will be over. The landlord will respond again in February of the following year, then guide the gods to the rice field and pray for the fruit of the year. It is a gentle custom of ancestors who have drowned in nature and have given thanks to the gods.

奥能登国際芸術祭作品公募資料 9 References Suzu City 50th Anniversary “History of Suzu” Okuno Noto Triennale 2017 Guidebook Okuno Noto Triennale 2017 Catalogue

Edit Okuno Noto Triennale Executive Committee 3-120-1 Iidamachi, Suzu City, Ishikawa Prefecture, 927-1214 JAPAN TEL +81-768-82-7720 FAX +81-768-82-7727 E-mail [email protected] Official website https://oku-noto.jp/