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FREE COPY! DiscoverSplit

Split/Central Travel Guide Activities/Destinations/Events Photo: Archive Tourist Board Split, by Ante Verzotti Ante by Board Split, Tourist Archive Photo:

with support from the Tourist Board of Split YOUR BEST MEMORIES START WITH US

Discover on holiday with “Croatia’s Leading Car Rental” -2017 World Travel Awards Winner

FAST ONLINE BOOKING: www.novarentacar.hr +385 72 535 535 AIRPORT AND IN-CITY OFFICES: ////Šibenik//Split// Welcome to Split!

I am pleased to welcome you to our beautiful city by the sea. Continuously occupied for more than 1,700 years, Split is a living city, a city where tourists and citizens alike can enjoy the sea, the sun, music, art, history, wonderful gastronomy and so much more! DiscoverSplit’s Travel Guide to Split-Central Dalmatia Activities/ Destinations/Events is just one of the ways we help new visitors enjoy the Split experience. If you need more information about our city, the official tourist offices on the Peristil square and on the waterfront Riva are staffed with multi-lingual professionals who can help you with everything from where the closest laundromat is to finding a dentist! We are glad you are here..... enjoy your stay!

Alijana Vukšić / Director, Tourist Board of Split Welcome to DiscoverSplit’s Guide to Activities/Destinations/Events! with support from the Central Dalmatia Tourist Board and the Tourist Board of Split

Dear Visitor, Central Dalmatia and Split, Croatia’s second largest city with a bit over 200,000 residents, are rapidly becoming one of the “must visit” Mediterranean destinations. There’s so much to see and do here—from experiencing 1,700 years of living history in the of to the thrilling Alka Knights Tournament in the inland village of . Whether it’s whitewater rafting on the in Omis, spending a day enjoy , honey and wine on the island of Solta or going underground to experience a still-working original Roman aqueduct, Central Dalmatia and Split are a joy for the senses. From a hidden stone village on , a fabulous beach in , to a glittering waterfront restaurant, the discoveries never end. For this year’s edition, we have chosen to profile more than 100 different activities, destinations and events in the region. Everything is divided into travel-related sections, from Adventure to UNESCO sites. All of the texts are written by people who live here and love it. Since it’s possible that some information has changed, we have included a website address at the bottom of each activities/destination page so you can check for the most up to date information. Throughout the Guide you will see a single sponsor for certain activities/destinations. We have personally chosen these to be exclusive sponsors because of their excellent reputation for professional service and quality. If for some reason, you find otherwise, please write to us! Welcome and enjoy your stay here in Central Dalmatia! The Editors

© 2019 Radionica Ideja, d.o.o. All rights reserved. No part of this Guide may be reproduced, stored or transmitted in any form or by any means without the prior written consent of the copyright owner. The publisher cannot assume responsibility for any errors. E mail: [email protected] TOURS AND DESTINATIONS

Adventure/Sports 5 Diocletian’s Mausoleum ...... 25 Biking ...... 06 Split Islamic Center and Mosque .... 26 Fishing ...... 07 St. Orthodox Church ...... 27 Hiking ...... 08 Split City Museum ...... 28 Kayaking ...... 09 Radunica neighborhood ...... 29 Whitewater rafting ...... 10 Varoš neighborhood ...... 30 Vidović Gallery ...... 31 Area Festivals / Special events 12 Day cruises / boat rentals 32 There are festivals all over Central Dalmatia all year round. Whether it’s Blue Cave ...... 33 a town’s patron saint’s day; a wine/ Getting around 34 gastronomy event; musical event; historic re-enactment; saling regatta Air/sea/ground transport ...... 35 or something else, ne sure to check Krilo catamarans ...... 36 the local town tourist board. Our list Taxi/Transfer ...... 37 includes several dozen of the most popular area annual events. Islands 38

Culture/History 14 Islands ...... 39 Brač ...... 40 Archaeological Museum of Split ..... 15 ...... 41 Art Museum of Split ...... 16 Hvar ...... 42 Croatian National Theatre ...... 17 Jelsa ...... 43 Ethnographic Museum of Split ...... 18 Stari Grad ...... 44 Gripe Fortress ...... 19 Korčula ...... 45 Jewish Synagogue ...... 20 Šolta ...... 46 Jupiter’s Temple ...... 21 ...... 47 Maritime Museum ...... 22 National parks 48 Marjan Hill and Bene ...... 23 Meštrović Gallery ...... 24 ...... 49 St. Domnius Cathedral ...... 25 Plitvice ...... 50 TOURS AND DESTINATIONS

Split Festivals/Events 51 St.Domnius Day (Sudjama) ...... 52 ...... 76 Mediterranean Film Festival ...... 52 Šibenik ...... 77 nights ...... 52 Trogir ...... 78 ULTRA Festival ...... 52 UNESCO World Heritage sites 79 Blues Festival Split ...... 52 65th Annual Split Summer Festival 52 Ager plain, Hvar ...... 80 Days of Diocletian ...... 52 Cathedral of St. James, Šibenik ...... 80 Mag Festival of Chamber Music ...... 52 St. Nicholas fortress, Šibenik ...... 80 Split Int. Festival of New Film ...... 52 Diocletian’s Palace ...... 80 Split-Vis Regatta ...... 52 Dubrovnik ...... 80 ...... Advent in Split ...... 52 Plitvice National Park 80 Trogir’s historic core ...... 80 Shopping 53 Zadar’s fortified city walls and gates 80 Game of Thrones Museum ...... 54 Mall of Split ...... 55 Get more ...... 56 Town/City Day Trips 57 Baška Voda ...... 58 Brela ...... 59 ...... 60 Dubrovnik ...... 61 ...... 63 Kaštela ...... 64 ...... 65 ...... 66 Makarska ...... 67 Omiš ...... 70 Primošten ...... 72 ...... 73 Sinj ...... 75 Stari Grad, Hvar backstreet photo: Jedan Komadić Adventure

FIND YOUR BLISS ON LAND OR SEA HERE IN DALMATIA!

7 Biking

With wonderful parks, back scooters. Favorite local rides are alleys and bike-laned waterfront Marjan Hill Park, the big green hill promenades, riding around Split that overlooks the city, which has a is a great way to get some easy beach with changing booths, cafe’s exercise and see the sights at your and more at Bene; along the Riva, own pace. For those who want ride to the Western Promenade and into the wilderness or explore the then towards Meštrović Gallery region, bike rental agencies here and the beaches below in the offer everything from guided small Meje neighborhood. We also like group tours, by the hour solo jaunts tooling around the back alleys to week long adventures. Most in and around the Palace when agencies offer well-maintained top the crowds are gone, and zipping name hybrid and mountain bikes. over to Bačvice beach near the You can also rent Segway’s, electric ferry terminal. Island biking is also bikes and even Trikke electric fabulous with lots of marked trails! www.meridienten.com

8 Fishing

With its enormous coastline, more the islands, albacore, amberjack than 1100 islands, almost 100 and mahi-mahi can be caught. and rivers, fishing has been Locals use a variety of techniques, an integral part of life here for from traps and vertical jigging thousands of years. From deep sea to deep rock fishing, trolling and fishing for giant tuna, and broadbill spear fishing. Day boats from Split swordfish to delicious gray mullet, and other coastal towns normally orada, and sea bass to brown and have a boat rate for up to 10 speckled trout caught from banks anglers making it very reasonable of the nearby Cetina River, a day for you and your crew to enjoy a spent fishing and then grilling your day at sea with dinner included! catch later with some great local Some even have their own cookout wine is Dalmatia at its best. The facilities for you to grill your catch most prized sea species are John and enjoy lunch with some wine, Dory, dentex and sea bream. Around so grab a rod and let’s go fishing! [email protected] 9 Hiking

Central Dalmatia is a paradise for walk to Dragon Cave in Murvica hikers! Whether it’s enjoying an is fun or for a rugged trek, go to easy ramble up and round Marjan Vidova Gora peak, 780 meters Hill, the big green peninsula above sea level. Next, take the overlooking the city; majestic catamaran to Hvar town, along the Nature park in Makarska nearby coastline is a well marked (the second highest mountain small trail to the hidden village of range in Croatia with 16 peaks Malo Grablje, For an amazing view, above 1,400 meters) or island take the trek to the islands highest trekking, we have it all! Let’s start peak Sveti Nikola. There are a lot with the islands. It’s just a 45 of outfitters and routes from easy to minute ferry trip to nearby Šolta. rugged to choose from. Some even Lots of charming village towns, we offer 3-5-7 day hikes with guides like the walk from Gornje Selo to and excursions as well as hiking Stomorska. On Brač, the leisurely cruises that include lots of islands! www.andadventure.com/activities/hiking-croatia

10 Kayaking

Kayaking is becoming more and Central Dalmatia you can kayak on more popular all over the planet the sea, lakes or rivers. From Split, because its perfect for couples you can be kayaking in 15 minutes and being able to get really close on one of the many day trips from to shore, just drift, relax, slip over Bene at the end of Marjan Hill. We the side for a swim, makes for a love the terrific inland wonderful day of soft adventure. day program--gorgeous scenery, You don’t need experience and easy paddling on a pristine lake and it’s fun whether you are 12 or 85. Modern kayaks are remarkably a lunch prepared shoreside with tough, but lightweight and easy to fresh local delicacies and wine! paddle. And since you are sitting on Great river kayaking is waiting at the waterline, they’re much more the Cetina, which offers both easy stable than a canoe and easier to and extreme kayaking. Hvar island steer, turn and navigate. Here in kayaking is amaaazing! www.andadventure.com 11 Whitewater rafting

Photo: raftingomis.com We’ve mentioned the Cetina River so while there’s enough spray and a number of times in the Guide action to get your attention, it’s not and one reason it’s such a favored dangerous. The trip down river also destination of adventure-seekers has numerous pools with enough is because it offers so many varied calm water for you to enjoy a swim. experiences. With a deep canyon Most rafts hold 8 people plus the carved out over thousands of guide—so if you can put together years, the Cetina flows strong and your own group of 8, you’ll have steady from the hinterland behind even more of a blast. Don’t worry the Dinaran mountains all the way about safety gear, you’ll be given down to the sea. For most people, helmets, life jackets, etc. Most trips the term whitewater means scary. end at Radman’s Mills, an ancient Not to worry. Rapids are rated flour mill now fully restored as a 1-5 and the stretch of river used lunch/picnic area where you can by most outfitters here is 2 to 3, grab some chow. www.raftingomis.com

12 GREAT FAMILY FUN!

Enjoy four hours of fabulous fun on the Cetina! Rafting 9.5 kilometers through small rapids, quiet water and lush river vegetation! Plus a short break next to the Studenci waterfall to swim and relax. We supply helmets and safety vests--all you need is the spirit of adventure, a swimming suit, shirt, towel, sandals and a set of dry clothes and shoes for later. Our staff is licensed by the International Rafting Federation as well as the Croatian Mountain Rescue Service—a decade of experience leading thousands of first-time rafters like you!

Yes, we can pick you up in Split. Private groups welcome! BOOK NOW! +385 98 567 675 www.raftingomis.com

13 Area Festivals

FROM BULL FIGHTING TO PIRACY ON THE HIGH SEAS!

14 Area festivals May nightime re-enactment between the May Day—an annual town (our guys) and the Turks celebration all over Central Dalmatia August Hand Fair, Trogir--crafts, food, fun Bull fghting Bikijada in Radošić— Split Beach Festival, Bačvice-- real bullfghting in a forest international DJ’s, house music and Kaštela Broad Bean Festival, Kastel more on the beach Kambelovac—oh what you can Klis Day August, 16th. Also the do with beans! A marvelous local festival of St. Roch, with a procession gastronomy event with food, music through the village. Food and fun The Feast of St.Prosper, Hvar— the Moondance, Trogir—techno festival town co-patron saint--food,wine, fun held inside the 15thC fortress June Annual Pirate Battle, Omiš—ships, DokuMa, Makarska--international gunpowder, sabers, at the harbor. documentary flm festival. Makarska Jazz Festival, Makarska— - Festival of Dalmatian Klapa, Omiš enjoy international jazz artists -Croatia’s most important singing contest. www.fdk.hr 304th Annual Alka Tournament, Ethnoambient, Solin--unusual live Sinj—every year since 1715! Dressed music from around the world in authentic period clothing, Sinj Lavender Festival, Hvar island—the knights on horseback race full tilt to annual island harvest event spear the alka. One of Croatia’s must Biser Mora, Brač island—an experience events, Sunday Aug. 5 international culinary festival with Voi’Sa Festival, Brač island—live invited chefs from around the world music on Supetar’s beach from dub Supetar Town Day, Brač--the Fair of to funk St.Peter and Paul. September July Goulash Disco Festival, Vis island—a Delmatae vs. Romans, Sinj--Emperor crowdfunded, world music Diocletian, surrounded by guards celebration in Komiža. and soldiers, bandsmen, a referee Nativity of the Virgin Mary, Solin--A and players. rich, religious, cultural entertainment Annual Graffti Festival, Brač island-- graffti writers, designers, skaters and program together with a sports musicians from all over the region. program and a traditional fair. The Pulling of Mrdjula Island—a tug The Festival of St. Mihovil, Gradac— of war with 150+ boats between The patron saint’s day, with Mass Brač and Šolta in the morning followed by a The Battle for Klis—a high-energy procession and evening festival www.dalmatia.hr/en/event-calendar 15 Photo: Jarle Nystuen

Culture/Historical sites in Split

EXPERIENCE 1,700 YEARS OF LIVING HISTORY!

16 Archeaological Museum of Split

Photo Carole Raddato

Split’s Archaeological Museum designed building, the fascination is the oldest museum in Croatia, begins as you enter the portico founded almost 200 years ago in which is lined with ancient stone 1820. Despite being located in such sculptures and epitaphs. Inside a small city, the museum enjoys an you’ll find an intriguing collection international reputation. Its long from prehistoric times to the time director, the father of Croatian Greek, Roman, early Christian and archeology, Frane Bulić, created early Medieval periods. The star the First lnternational Congress of Early Christian Archaeology in attraction? More than 6,000 stone 1894, which brought the city and relics from , the capital of the museum worldwide acclaim the Roman empire in Dalmatia, (for almost 140 years has been present day Solin, less than 10km publishing its own scholarly away. The Museum is an easy walk journal). A handsome Viennese- from the center. Closed Mondays. www.armus.hr 17 Art Museum of Split

We really love the city’s Art from the ‘60s to present day— Museum here (in Croatian it installations, video, multi-media as is called Galerija Umjetnina). well as painting and sculpture. Up Celebrating its 88th anniversary one flight, the exhibition spans the this year, it took on a whole new centuries with carefully chosen life when it moved into the former work from the 14th century to the city hospital, which was beautifully ‘60s. The works by Croatian masters renovated to also include a cafe like Bukovac, Celestin, Vidović, and courtyard (take a left at the Dešković, Medović and others are famous Meštrović statue of Grgur stunning—you won’t forget them. of Nin, and walk until you see the On the ground floor there’s a really flags and museum building on your nice outdoor terrace cafe that right). The ground floor is devoted serves wine too and inside on the to the contemporary, with both same floor be sure to stop at the permanent and special exhibits gift shop. www.galum.hr/en/exhibitions/ 18 Croatian National Theatre

the gorgeous interior of Split’s National Theatre. / Photo DT Croatia

One of the cultural treasures of the Throughout various lobbies there city is the splendid HNK Croatian are wonderful sculptures of famous National Theatre building at the theatre people from Split, some of end of Marmontova. The foundation whom went on to international stone was laid on April 4th, 1891. fame. A jewel box foyer for intimate Just two years later, it was finished. recitals is part of the complex as is The lavish interiors, including a vast enclave of offices, wardrobe gorgeous painted ceilings and and gymnasia for actors, dancers, plaster work, were done by singers to train. This year, if you Italian masters. The horseshoe have 30 minutes, enjoy a behind shaped seating area has stunning the scenes look at this splendid balconies and loges offering building for just 50 kn pp! To terrific sight lines to the vast stage reserve a National Theatre tour call that hosts full-scale opera, theatre, +385 91 222 2727 (the minimum is ballet and other performances. 2 people). www.visitsplit.com

19 Ethnographic Museum of Split

photo: Anastasia Kardynova

Like its Archaeological Museum, outside wall still has defensive Split’s Ethnographic Museum ramparts from the 15thC. On is the first of its kind in Croatia. display inside are wonderful This year, on the 3rd of July, the examples of characteristic island museum will celebrate its 109th and coastal life in Dalmatia. Enjoy anniversary! The building itself typical costumes of the region (the has a fascinating history. Located embroidery is stunning), furniture, in the southern residential quarter jewelry, handicrafts, knitting, of Diocletian’s palace, it not only pottery and even weaponry. includes original 4thC remains While the focus is on this part of (which some feel could have been the world, there are also many one of the Emperor’s bedrooms), items from other parts of Croatia, but one of the oldest churches Bosnia and , , in Split, the church of St. Andrew , Kosovo and . de Fenestris from the 7thC. The Closed Monday. www.etnografski-muzej-split.hr/ (Croatian only) 20 Gripe Fortress

Photo:

A ten minute walk east of the Green captured the fort, holding it for Market at Gripe, a natural hill that just a single day until they were overlooks the historic city core and repelled. To prevent Turkish cannon harbor, the Venetians, who ruled fire from crashing through its stone Dalmatia for 400 years, built a walls, the fortress was designed fortress to protect the city against with massively-thick earthworks in the Ottoman Turks. Although a between the walls. Under military major portion was built in less control for centuries, in 1995 it than a year, the entire project took was turned over to the city of Split. from 1647 to 1682. Gripe played Today it’s the only fortress in Split a critical role in the seemingly that has been completely restored endless war against the Turks and now is the fascinating home during this period. Time and again of the the Turks made repeated attempts complete with a courtyard drydock! to the city and actually (see page 22) http://www.hpms.hr/gripe-fortress.html 21 Jewish Synagogue

Photo: Total Croatia News

Evidence of Jewish life in Dalmatia 1728. After the Holocaust, there goes back more than 2,000 years. were only 100 Jews left here, but In Split, Jews not only played a their volunteer spirit has kept pivotal role in the development the synagogue alive with weekly of the city as a port, but also Friday shabat and holiday events. defended the West tower of the The sanctuary itself is upstairs and Palace against the Ottomans in still has its Torah facing Jerusalem the 16thC. Now more than 500 in a nitch carved directly into the years old, Split’s synagogue is the west wall of the Palace. Open third oldest in Europe. Still in its mornings and early afternoons, just original location, it was created in ring the bell for a free tour. As you the 16thC by converting the second leave the sanctuary, there’s a small floor of two attached medieval box for donations to help keep the houses in the then Jewish ghetto. synagogue in repair. Yours will be Its current appearance dates from much appreciated. www.zost.hr/selected.php?id=1&jezik=EN 22 Jupiter’s Temple

​Photo: Wikimedia

Diocletian was the last Roman from Egypt. The gorgeous intact emperor to declare himself divine, barrel vaulted ceiling still has some proclaiming that he be worshiped of its spooky faces and the lacy as the son of Jupiter, the god of sky doorway carvings and those figures and thunder, the king of all Roman just under the entrance portal are deities. To honor his father, he fabulous. Converted to a baptistry ordered a monumental temple to in the medieval era, the figure of be built opposite his mausoleum. Croatian king Petar Krešimir IV, on Today Jupiter’s Temple is still the front panel as you enter, is the imposing, but jammed at the end first stone sculpture of any European of a dark alley imagine what a king! The imposing statue of John spectacular sight it must have been the Baptist in the rear of the Temple in 300AD, set on its own handsome is by Ivan Meštrović, Croatia’s most square, flanked with columns, palm famous artist whose museum/villa trees and a sphinx--booty taken is a must, see page 24. www.visitsplit.com/en/526/temple-of-jupiter 23 Maritime Museum

Overlooking the harbor since the boats on the east Adriatic coast. 17thC, the Gripe Fortress, the city’s From pre-history to modern times, only fully-preserved fort, is the each floor is a treasure-trove of home of the Croatian Maritime models, figureheads, ships engines, Museum. Its rich and extensive instruments, anchors, artwork, historic collections include marine torpedoes (invented by a Croat!) archaeological finds and artifacts and even a rare pithos, a huge from Brodosplit Museum, situated ceramic container used to store in Split’s shipyard, as well as other live fish, from the 1st/2ndC! It’s maritime museums. The wonders the perfect place for anyone who begin as soon as you enter the loves the sea and anything nautical courtyard “drydock” of the ships to spend a couple of cool hours in ‘Bakar’ and ‘Perina’, a traditional the summer. Open 9-20, but unlike Dalmatian ‘gajeta’ built in 1857, many other Split museums, open one of the oldest surviving fishing Mon.-Sat. The kids will love it too! www.hpms.hr/about-museum.html 24 Marjan Hill and Bene

Whether you arrive by cruise ship cemeteries in Europe (the cemetery or car, the magnificent green hill is usually open, but if not just ask for on a peninsula looming high over the key inside the cafe/restaurant the west coast of Split’s waterfront in front). Marjan’s tallest point, is hard to miss. Locals call Marjan Telegrin, rises 178m above the city. and its park within, the “lungs of But from even lower, the views of the city “ not only because its dense, the entire city, surrounding islands Mediterranean forest is green all and nearby mountains are stunning. year but also it’s the perfect place At the end of the peninsula is Bene, to run, hike, walk, bike and even with tennis courts, cafe’s, a shady swim. All this nature is so close to beach and places to picnic. Take the old town, plus with a little uphill the Bene bus from the end of the walking, you’ll be able to visit some Riva, or walk up through Varoš on fascinating ancient hermitages as Senjska St., the first street to the well as one of the oldest Jewish right of Sv. Frane church. www.en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marjan 25 Meštrović gallery

Ivan Meštrović (1883-1962) is Nazi puppet government here, considered the greatest of all Pope Pius X11 helped him get to Croatian artists. Just a 15 minute Switzerland. Later he immigrated walk from the end of the waterfront to the US and taught at Syracuse Riva is his house, atelier, sculpture and Notre Dame. In 1954, President garden and private kaštelet Eisenhower personally presided (chapel), that overlook the sea and over the ceremony granting him contain some of his most important American citizenship. After your pieces in marble, bronze and wood. In his will, he bequeathed these visit, enjoy a glass of wine in the homes, his Zagreb studio and garden cafe to your right, just home and a chapel in Otavice before the steps down to the street. to the Croatian people, together And don’t forget to visit his kaštelet, with the majority of his sculpture. a five minute walk, for an entirely Arrested during WW2 by the different experience! www.mestrovic.hr 26 St. Domnius Cathedral/ Diocletian’s Mausoleum

Photo: softcom2017

Built around 305AD by the Emperor result is sumptuous. Just look at Diocletian as his mausoleum, St. the symmetry of the red granite Domnius Cathedral, (affectionately columns; those ornate capitals; called Duje cathedral by locals) the ceiling frieze under the is the world’s oldest Catholic largest, still-intact unsupported cathedral still in use today, in dome from Roman times; the the same building where it was octagonal exterior yielding to a founded. Although Diocletian circular interior; the choir stalls persecuted many believers (the in the annex and much more. The sarcophagi of the martyrs St. belltower, which took 200 years Domnius and St. Anastasius are to build, was added in the 13thC. inside), Split’s Christians decided Don’t miss the upstairs Treasury, not to destroy his mausoleum, and as you leave, the magnificent but transform its extraordinary wooden doors by Buvina, which interior into a cathedral. The were carved in 1214. www.visitsplit.com/en/527/cathedral-of-saint-domnius

27 Split Islamic Center and Mosque

Like the Jewish Synagogue, programs. Most Muslims here just a 5 minute walk away, the are originally from Bosnia and Islamic Center for Split’s Muslim and arrived in the 19th community is also in the Palace. and 20thC. They represent just 1% In addition to being a community of the population--95% of which is center for Muslims living here, Catholic. The Muslim population there is also a mosque which was is very spread out—Zagreb. Pula created inside of an Archiepiscopal in , and far away in are Seminary from the 1700’s that was no longer used. Five times where most live and work. If you each day, as is custom, the mosque would like the visit the mosque opens for prayers. A local imam or the community center, you are and his family live in Split and very welcome. Just give a call to are a frequent presence at both +385- 21 360 651 Their email is: Jewish and Christian ecumenical [email protected] www.medzlis-split.org

28 St. Sava Orthodox Church

St. Sava’s is a fascinating off- sanctuary, and the remains of the-beaten track experience-- some of the convent’s original an unfinished metaphor for the arches. Push back the window always uneasy centuries-old curtains in the sanctuary to see relationship between Catholics the stunning carved portals and and Orthodox Christians. Just the friezes of the church, which behind the Fish Market, next to seem as ancient as the religion Kruščić, the city’s best artisan itself. Waiting silently are cut bakery, behind a high, non- slabs of stone all around the descript wall is a monumental basilica-like structure to be put in 80 year old church built in a place once the dome is erected. courtyard behind a former 14thC The church is now looking to raise convent waiting to be finished. necessary funds to complete their Open until noon, just walk in and dream of having their own church up the stairs to see the temporary in Split “within 2 or 3 years”. www.viewfromtheriva.wordpress.com/2009/12/30/ 29 Split City Museum

Photo: Slobodna Dalmacija

One of the great treasures here, and more, it’s 1,700 years of life the City Museum, just a few in Split come alive. At one time minutes walk from the central the salon of the city’s Peristil, occupies the entire grand most celebrated writers, painters Gothic-Renaissance palace of the and intellectuals, the palace didn’t Split noble family Papalić. From become an official museum until its wonderful open courtyard, with 1946. Since then the collection has a beautiful period staircase and been greatly expanded and today relics from different epochs of the museum has an extensive Split’s illustrious past; a fascinating library, and sponsors many events ground floor display of an original and activities. Its ground floor marble 4th/5thC Roman dining exhibit space is a year-round table and model of the Peristil; showcase for local artists, so be elegant upstairs drawing rooms sure to see what’s going on and filled with memorabilia, furniture enjoy everything. www.mgst.net/povijest-muzeja 30 Radunica neighborhood

Not many tourists venture into an ancient word for water Split’s city neighborhoods—those spring (radun), it was first settled who do normally go to Varoš, at 500 years ago by people fleeing the end of the Riva since it has the the Turkish invasion from the Omiš most direct walking street up to hinterland. Although it’s becoming Marjan Hill. But Radunica is still more gentrified, there are still well worth enjoying—it begins plenty of kids on bikes, moms just opposite the Green Market. hanging wash, people getting their Cross the street, go left, take your hair cut, etc. to keep it a cohesive first right at the hanging green neighborhood. The last week in cross (pharmacy) sign and up a June the whole place turns into short staircase to a wide stone a street fair because it’s the Days street lined with old houses and of Radunica—food, games, singing alleyways that winds its way uphill and more and yes, you don’t need for a good 20 minutes. Named after to live here to be welcomed. www.visitsplit.com/en/510/radunica 31 Varoš neighborhood

Also called Old or Veli Varoš, Mikula) up here are really wonderful. this is where Split’s citizens first Keep walking until you are high ​up​ ventured out of the Palace in the over ​the​​ ​beautiful red tile ​Varos 11thC to create the city’s first real rooftops and ​then ​take​ ​the staircase neighborhood. The best way to to your left to the ​​city’s most famous experience it is to walk to the end overlook—Prva Vidilica. There’s a of the Riva where Sv. Frane Church is cafe here to relax. Behind it is the (with the in the tower) and take 500 year old Jewish cemetery and up the first street to your right, Senska, and keep walking. Have you ever the stone paths to the left, ancient seen so much marvelous stone!? Christian hermitages and churches. From lovingly restored restaurants On the way back down, take some to untouched ancient dwellings, the side streets, you won’t get lost—at streets, alleys, churches (the best the bottom of your trek is where you known is the 11thC Church of St. began—the Riva and the sea! www.visitsplit.com/en/519/veli-varos 32 Vidović Gallery

Emanuel Božidar Vidović (1870– churches, was more expressionist 1953), is Split’s most celebrated and darker, with bright accents. His post-Impressionist painter and studio work focused on still life and graphic artist. A contemporary of interiors. In 1942 and again a year sculptor Ivan Meštrović, together they founded the Medulić Society, before he died, he was elected to a turn of the century group of participate in the important influential secessionist artists who Biennale. Administered by the embraced a new national artistic Split City Museum, which also is style to promote independence responsible for the Substructures from Austria-Hungary. Vidović’s of Diocletian’s Palace, the Vidović early work was more art nouveau, inspired by South Slavic history Gallery was opened in 1986 in a and legends. His later work, renovated building next to the landscapes and interiors of local East, or Silver Gate of the Palace. www.galerija-vidovic.com 33 Day cruises

SAIL OR SPEEDBOAT YOUR WAY TO THE ISLANDS!

34 Blue cave To the Blue Cave and beyond!

Fast, safe, reliable in your own gorgeous speed- boat, or a small group tour, daily from Split. Whether it’s the Blue Cave, Trogir & Blue Lagoon, Plitivce, Krka or a multi-day tour, we make your adventure perfect. See our boats for rent online! Sinjska 4, next to Cornaro Hotel www.toursplit.com WhatsApp/Viber +385 95 753 8635 ID Code: HR-AB-261-001704

35 Getting Around

LOTS OF WAYS TO GET FROM SPLIT TO ANYWHERE!

36 Air/sea/ground transport

Split has excellent multi-modal inland as well as up and down the connections to Croatia and Dalmatian coast, is excellent and beyond. Complete ferry schedules frequent. The website, in Croatian and online ticketing are at www. only, is www.promet-split.hr/. The .hr. The daily Krilo train station is just before the catamaran to Dubrovnik runs May- bus station. Service is infrequent, October; online ticketing too: www. slower than the bus but more krilo.hr. The main bus terminal comfortable, and the trip to Zagreb for local and international buses over the mountains is gorgeous, is just opposite the big red ferry www.hzpp.hr/en. For taxis and terminal on the harbor, as well as transfers, call +385 95 522 7140 the all important direct airport or use Whatsapp, Viber,Facebook, bus. The information office there [email protected]. They speaks English, too. Website: www. can also arrange scenic private ak-split.hr/EN/. Local bus service, airplane flights over Split and more. [email protected] 37 Krilo catamarans

Krilo Daily to Dubrovnik!

April 8 to Oct. 20 Daily via Hvar Town Split-Dubrovnik outbound Dubrovnik-Split inbound 7:40 Split 16:30 Dubrovnik 8:05 Brač (), leaves 8:10 17:45 Miljet, leaves 17:50 8:40 Hvar Town, leaves 8:50 18:20 Korčula, leaves 18:30 10:00 Korčula, leaves at 10:10 19:35 Hvar Town, leaves 19:45 10:40 , leaves at 10:45 20:15 Brač (Milna), leaves 20:20 12:00 Dubrovnik 20:45 Split Daily Sept. 1-Oct. 20 same outbound schedule but leaves Dubrovnik at 16/arrives Split at 20:25 Oct. 21-Oct. 26 Mon.-Wed.-Sat. same times as Sept. 1-Oct. 20

May 27 – Oct 6 Daily Schedule via Bol/Makarska Split-Dubrovnik outbound Dubrovnik-Split inbound 7:30 Split 16:00 Dubrovnik 8:20 Brač (Bol), leaves 8:30 16:50 Mljet(Sobra),leaves 16:55 9:05 Makarska, leaves 9:15 17:45 Korčula, leaves 17:55 10:20 Korčula, leaves 10:30 19:05 Makarska, leaves 19:15 11:15 Mljet(Sobra),leaves 11:20 20:05 Brač (Bol), leaves 20:10 12:15 Dubrovnik 20:55 Split Tel. +385 21 645 476 Book online at www.krilo.hr at the pier in Split / We accept credit cards!

38 Taxi’s / transfers

AIRPORT TRANSFERS Fast JUST 40€! and really Fast!

We specialize in airport taxi transfers, day trips and scenic flights to all parts of Croatia and neighboring countries and fabulous scenic flights to the islands, Krka and more! English speaking professional drivers, spacious, comfortable cars and vans. And oh yes, really cool planes!

To book or quote! +385 95 522 7140 Credit cards accepted! whatsupp, viber and facebook email: [email protected]

39 Islands

ISLAND EXPERIENCES, THE PERFECT DAY TRIP!

40 Islands

Croatia has more than 1,100 and wine tour. Hvar, an hour by islands! An hour or less from Split catamaran, two by ferry, famous are some of the best. Vis, only 60 for its glitterati visitors and world- miles from the Italian coast, takes class party scene, has gorgeous several hours. Closed for decades as well as a military base (it was from here as the oldest, continuously farmed that Tito and the partisans fought agricultural plot on the planet in against the Nazi’s) is the least Stari Grad. Brač, with the best ferry touristy, with excellent beaches, service, just 45 minutes away, has charming towns and history back Croatia’s most famous beach at to the 4thC BC Šolta is where Bol and much, much more. Korčula, the Emperor Diocletian chose to less than 3 hours via catamaran, have his summer home. Bucolic, has great wine, , wild great sailing and biking and beaches, outstanding medieval home to a singular , honey architecture. Such great choices!

41 Brač

Although less glamorous and more of human ingenuity. Škrip, a hilltop laid back than its neighbor, Hvar, stone village with a restored olive Brač has everything a vacationer mill complex, is memorable. Brač’s wants—plus a lot of mystery. white marble was used by the Supetar is the main ferry port, just ancient Romans to facade their 45 min from Split with an atractive public buildings as well as by harbor and charming backstreets. modern architects and affluent The beach at Bol is a natural homeowners today. The island wonder, with its long, sandy pebbled even has a stone masonry school. tongue changing shape with the At you can see stone tides. Cafes, changing rooms and artists working. Charming seaside deep shade make this beach a hamlets like Povlja, Pučišća and must. Off the coast, fascinating and some of the best places like Blaca Monastery, hand olive oil on the planet all add to built out of the cliffs, is a marvel the Brač magic. www.idiividi.com 42 Supetar Discover Supetar

Our gorgeous seaside town is just 45 minutes from Split via ferry! Enjoy a self-guided walking tour through the oldest and most beautiful parts of the town that celebrates the life and times of Ivan Rendic (1849-1932), one of Croatia’s most gifted sculptors. Then, a wonderful lunch with island wine on our waterfront before you hop an afternoon ferry back to Split--the perfect island escape! www.supetar.hr 00385 21 630 551 SUPETAR - People, Places & Events supetar_unlock_your_experience

43 Hvar

Photo: Jedan Komadić

Hvar gets written up in more the Greeks, its Ager agricultural international travel magazines plain is a UNESCO World Heritage than any Croatian island, often as site. , often dubbed little a top 10 destination because of Venice because of its small canals, its elegant charm, A-list visitors, is charming. Jelsa, where families lavender, wine and rich history. head for good beaches, is a seaside The big lure here is Hvar town, village with surprisingly good a Renaissance beauty, complete restaurants and well-preserved with its own fort overlooking its buildings from the 15th and 16thC. beautiful harbor. The other main Inland Hvar is all about ancient towns of the island play second stone villages (some intact, but fiddle, but undeservedly.Stari Grad, abandoned) and olive groves, literally old town, is the ferry port while the south coast is all about for the island. In 2017 it celebrated Plavac mali, Croatia’s most famous its 2400th birthday! Founded by red wine. www.dalmatia.hr/en/island-of-hvar 44 Jelsa

Jelsa, quiet beauty

With beautiful beaches, ancient churches and stunning Roman remains, some of the island’s finest restaurants and a lovely protected harbor, Jelsa is the perfect day trip from Split, via morning ferry to Stari Grad where buses are waiting to take you here!

Tourist Board of Jelsa on the waterfront Riva, Jelsa +385 761 017 / e-mail: [email protected] www.tzjelsa.hr

45 Stari Grad Croatia’s oldest, newest discovery!

Stari Grad was founded by the Greeks more than 2,400 years ago and today all of this rich hisory and culture is still waiting for you to discover: the Ager plain, the oldest continuously cultivated agricultural plot on the planet; Petar Hektorovic’s gorgeous 16thC castle, our marvelous harbor, fine restaurants and so much more.....frequent ferries to and from Split, spend the day--come back for a stay!

Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 1 21460, Stari Grad +385 21 765 763 [email protected] www.stari-grad-faros.hr/en/

46 Korčula

Photo: Korcula Tourist Board

The sixth largest island in Croatia, you can visit. Korčula town is just Korčula is like a long, languid plain marvelous with its warren serpent stretching west from Vela of fish-bone streets and curvy Luka, the main ferry port for the seafront promenade. Good beaches island, to the walled medieval on either coast, idyllic villages like fortress city of Korčula town in , where Croatia’s oldest the east. The island’s serpentine written relic was found—a Greek- roads and hilly spine make for inscribed stone tablet from the a wonderful scooter trip as you 3rdC BC. Terrific fish, the island’s swoop up and down past endless famous moreska sword dancers vineyards (Pošip and Grk are the (real swords, real blood) and the island’s signature whites) and legendary home of Marco Polo beautiful towns like Blato. High make Korčula a favorite holiday above ’s harbor is Vela destination for Europeans who Špilja, a 20,000 year old open cave love its civilized, easy ambiance. www.visitkorcula.eu 47 Šolta

Photo Tourist Board of Solta

The closest island to Split, but the very good restaurants around least visited, with less than 2,000 the harbor. Stomorska, , year round inhabitants, Šolta is one Necujam are the main seaside of the best kept secrets in Dalmatia. towns. Famous for its olives and Like so many islands here, the rosemary honey, even Emperor Greeks were the main settlers, Diocletian had a summer palace but remains from the Stone Age here as well as a fish farm! A great have been found on Šolta too. A place to bike or hike, with plenty nautical paradise with 22 bays, the of hidden beaches and very good island has sweet village marinas ferry service, Solta is the perfect and virgin coves where day sailors day trip to discover pristine island and charter boats put in to enjoy nature. Want to stay longer? Lots great swimming and sunbathing. of locals rent out apartments Rogač, just 45 minutes away by (some even with swimming pools), ferry, is the main port with several just check online. www.visitsolta.com

48 Vis

Photo: Tourist Board of Vis

It’s hard to imagine how this small like Hvar and founding cities like island, just 60 miles from the Trogir. The Romans picked up Italian coast played such a crucial where the Greeks left off, but after role in Dalmatian history. Although their empire fell in the 7thC, Vis it can trace its beginnings to the withered. In WW2, Vis was used Neolithic period, the island’s first by Tito and his partisans, and the real colony was founded in the Allies. Today divers enjoy a seabed 4thC BC by Dionysis the Elder graveyard of British and American from Syracuse. Named Issa, the aircraft just off its coast. Closed colony was so well-established as a military base for decades, the it become an independent town/ island’s flora and fauna flourished. state (polis) and even coined its With the filming of Momma Mia! own money. Rich and powerful, Here We Go Again here a couple of the Issans sailed all the way to the years ago, this glorious island is Dalmatian coast setling islands now enjoying a true renaissance. www.tz-vis.hr 49 National Parks

UNTOUCHED NATURE, GORGEOUS WATERFALLS, GO!

50

With its signature waterfalls restored ensemble of small stone that you can practically swim houses, workshops and exhibits under, Krka is one of the most which show how water used to visited national parks in Croatia. make village life possible and It is about an hour by car via the sustainable centuries ago. You toll highway. Begin your Krka can walk on your own or be taken experience in the pretty seaside through well-marked trails to town of Skradin, where the Krka enjoy the flora and fauna here. River meets the sea and a fleet of Added excursions: Roski slap, a two-decker boats bring you to the beautiful, quiet, untouched nature park—a short mini-cruise included area in the upper part of the river in the price of admission. A second canyon, perfect for swimming and option is to drive to the park. Šibenik, to see its main attraction All tours include a fascinating St James Cathedral, a UNESCO walk through an authentically- World Heritage site. www.np-krka.hr/en

51 Plitvice

Photo: NP Plitvice Plitvice, like Iguassu in Argentina, park, Entrance 1, above the lower Yellowstone in the US and lakes and Entrance 2, next to the Serengeti in Tanzania is one of upper lakes. There’s also the Flora those rare thrilling experiences entrance, the least crowded. With you remember forever. Covering shuttle buses every 20 minutes, almost 73.000 acres, it’s divided boat rides on Lake Kozjak, hiking into upper and lower lake areas trails—from 2 to 8 hours—and all (there are 16 lakes, over 90 that gorgeous flora and fauna, waterfalls, plus caves, caverns, and forests). It’s a good three you will love it. Spend time on hour drive from Split, and in the their website to get well-oriented. summer, has as many as 12,000 Admission is not cheap, $40 in visitors a day! Best bet is get here summer. Less expensive, much early or spend the night. There less crowded and even more are two main entrances to the gorgeous in the Spring and Fall! www.np-plitvicka-jezera.hr/en/plan-your-visit/

52 Photo by Ante Verzotti, used by permission of the photographer and the Tourist Board of Split.

Split Festivals/Events

FROM ADVENT TO ULTRA, SPLIT IS A FESTIVAL!

53 Split Festivals/Events St.Domnius Day (Sudjama) Days of Diocletian / late August May 7 Split’s festive patron Locals and tourists alike dress up saint’s day, Cathedral and Riva in tunics and togas to enjoy events, and a rowing regatta with Roman games, food and more. Oxford, Cambridge and Split! www.visitsplit.com Mediterranean Film Festival Mag Festival of Chamber Music / June 13-22 Croatian and Aug.-Sept. Enjoy live classical international films outdoors music in the gorgeous grand nightly at Bačvice beach and days hall of the Papalić Palace, home at Zlatna Vrata in the Palace. of the Split City Museum. www. udrugamag.com for exact dates Sustipan Nights / first week of July A summer live performance Split Int. Festival of New Film Croatia’s premier delight under the stars at Sept. 18-25 festival of the avant garde, with gorgeous Sustipan Park, at the an international jury. Program end of the Riva. Get there early info at www.splitflmfestival.hr and take a blanket! Split-Vis Regatta / Oct. 18-20 ULTRA Festival / July 12-14 For the past 74 years, the regatta Europe’s epic EDM and house that defines the end of the music rave in Poljud Stadium. summer sailing season. Watch Join tens of thousands dancing more than 150 sail boats from like crazy from night ‘til dawn. around the world. www.visitsplit.com Advent in Split / Dec.-early January Blues Festival Split / July The annual holiday fair on the A 3 day festival featuring waterfront Riva. Traditional food, Croatian, regional and world grog, entertainment and fun! artists. www.splitbluesfestival.com 65th Annual Split Summer Festival / July-August A performing arts extravaganza from around the world. Outdoors as well as in. Schedule at: www.splitsko-ljeto. hr/en/#schedule www.visitsplit.com

54 Shopping

FROM GAME OF THRONES GIFTS TO FABULOUS MALLS!

55 Game of Thrones Take the throne!

GOT fan? Now you can sit on an exact replica of the Iron Throne and have your picture taken at Split’s premier GOT fan shop. Enjoy the most complete collection of licensed GOT souvenirs, get great discounts when you buy more than one item plus a special tour discount with any purchase!

Museum and Merchandise/Fan Shop 9/10 Bosanska, Split Daily 9 to 22

56 57 Get More

NOT YOUR ORDINARY SOUVENIR STORE! SHIPPING WORLDWIDE

BUY MAKE TASTE EVERYTHING CREATIVE WORKSHOPS HANDMADE

Kraj sv. Ivana 5 0385 989229373 WE’RE JUST BEFORE JUPITER’S TEMPLE 09:00h – 21:00h IN AN AUTHENTIC SPLIT COURTYARD! /getmore.split

58 Town/City Day Trips

FROM BAŠKA VODA TO TROGIR!

59 Baška Voda

Photo: Baska Voda Tourist Board

One of the prettiest towns along of seashells from the Adriatic as the , Baška Voda, well as from other oceans. The like its Croatian name, has always Archaeological Museum has a been a source of fresh water—a fine collection of pre-historic valuable resource for early settlers implements, Roman and Greek and farmers who arrived​ ​here amphorae, ancient coins and more. 4000 years ago. Nestled between And there are some interesting the Biokovo mountain range, just Renaissance-era churches like St. above the town, and the sea, Baška Roko’s. During the summer, lots of Voda is an oasis of calm beauty. local events like fishermen’s nights Besides enjoying its harbor and and folk dancing. No wonder this pebble beaches, there’s some small town,with a good selection of intriguing sightseeing here, like accommodations, restaurants and the town’s Macalogical Museum, its beautiful natural surroundings, which features a large collection is such a success! www.baskavoda.hr/en/welcome-to-baska-voda 60 Brela

Photo: Tourist Board of Brela Brela has been welcoming tourists walking,swimming and hiking, you since 1897. Like its sister, Baška can enjoy some terrific local sites Voda, the deep pine forests like the Road (1808- framing its beaches, the Biokovo 1813), the carved stone Bekavci- mountain range looming overhead Ivandić complex of 19thC houses; and a particularly rich history fortified tower of Soline and and culture make it a perennial Biokovo Nature Park. You can also destination for many Europeans. visit boutique wineries and enjoy Forbes listed Brela’s Punta Rata some delicious local cuisine like beach as one of the 10 best in the Brela’s surprising swiss chard cake world and its famous lungomare (a made with cinnamon and raisins! beach front walking promenade) Despite its small size, Brela also extends 6,5 km from Jakiruša to boasts some excellent Bluesun- Berulija is a joy to walk. Perfect for branded and other top quality a more active holiday, after all that hotel-resorts. www.brela.hr/en/2/brela 61 Dugopolje

62 Dubrovnik

The “Peal of the Adriatic“, Dubrovnik is 200 vessels! Today, its wealth and one of the most popular destinations power are amply evident in the in Croatia and a key cruise stop. To rich architectural legacy within its enjoy it with less crowds, best to monumental fortress walls. You can start your sightseeing before 9 or take a funicular to high up over the after 6! As the first protected port city to enjoy the spectacular view on the east-west Adriatic route, or walk atop its fortress walls. The Dubrovnik used its strategic location churches, public buildings, squares to become the most significant and —all within the fortress maritime and mercantile center of walls—are glorious. A UNESCO the Adriatic --rivaling its arch enemy World Heritage site, plus great Venice. By the 16thC, the Ragusa cuisine, wonderful shopping and Republic, as Dubrovnik was called, ferries to take you to Korčula, Mljet entered a golden age with a world- National Park and other nearby class merchant navy of almost islands for perfect day trips. www.tzdubrovnik.hr/lang/en/news/gradski_vodic/index.html

63 Krilo Star Daily to Dubrovnik!

DAILY APRIL 8-OCT. 20 7:40AM from Split, 12:05PM in Dubrovnik! with stops at Brač, Hvar, Miljet and Korčula 16:30PM from Dubrovnik, in Split at 20:55 Oct, 21-Oct. 26 Mon.-Wed.-Sat. 7:40AM from Split, 16PM from Dubrovnik Enjoy a glorious afternoon in Dubrovnik and be back in Split for dinner! Comfortable seating, on-board cafe, great scenery and short stops at beautiful islands!

Tel. +385 21 645 476 Book online at www.krilo.hr at the Split pier, Krilo kiosk / we accept credit cards!

64 Imotski

Discovering Imotski is a such a can you find two very strange surprise—only 45 minutes from lakes—one blue, called of course Split on the E65, there’s enough Blue Lake and the other, the Red real magic here to keep you Lake, whose depth is a staggering fascinated for days. The first 528 meters—the deepest surprise is that it looks like a lake in Europe! With hotels and coastal city with stone houses holiday home rentals, excellent nestled into the hills, steep narrow local cuisine like slow cooked veal streets and stone steps, beautiful peka and kapurali (minced meat facades and wrought iron railings- in cabbage) and terrific wine (the -and protecting the town, the first Dalmatian champagne was 10thC Topana fortress (photo made here), Imotski has a lot to above). The nearest coast is 30km offer—plus having more Mercedes away! This is off-the-beaten-path Benz’s per capita than anywhere Croatia at its best. Where else on the planet! www.gaz-travel.hr 65 The Kaštelas

Photo: Kastela Tourist Board

Inhabited since prehistoric times preserved town squares, steps from (50,000 year old artifacts have the sea, surrounded by a tangle been found here), the name of narrow streets and old stone kaštela means castle in Croatian. houses, the walk along a common Between the 13-15thC, aristocrats seafront promenade (with beaches and clergymen from Trogir and for swimming) that connects some Split built fortified castles here, of the towns is wonderful. To visit a some complete with moats and restored castle, enjoy Kaštel Vitturi, drawbridges. At one time, the now a museum and tourist board 12 mile stretch between Split office in Kaštel Lukšić. Excellent and the airport had 16 of them. restaurants, boutique wineries, Today Kaštela includes 7 distinct too. Kaštela is the birthplace townships, like Kaštel Novi (new of wine (crljenak castle town), Kaštel Stari (old kaštelanski)—and it’s also home to castle town) and others. With well- a 400 berth marina! www.kastela-info.hr/en/home 66 Klis

Photo: www.boredpanda.com/blog

Klis Fortress, now internationally overrun the nearby capital of the famous as a Game of Thrones site, is Roman Empire in Dalmatia, Salona, one of Croatia’s most important and today’s Solin. Largely restored and celebrated strongholds. Impossibly significantly enlarged, the views built atop the narrow spine of a down the valley to Split and the sea craggy butte overlooking the city beyond are thrilling—especially and the surrounding area between at sunset. Best of all, it’s just 15 and Kozjak mountains, it’s minutes from Split by highway easy to see why it has been such or the old Klis road where locals a defensive prize since the 2ndC from far and wide come to enjoy BC. In 10AD, the great Roman spit-roasted lamb. You can also get Emperor Augustus used it to here via the highway, without tolls, keep the Dalmatians in line. More just get off at the Klis exit and than 600 years later, it fell to the follow the signs to Klis Fortress, Avars and , enabling them to just five minutes away. http://www.tvrdavaklis.com/ 67 Knin

Krčić Waterfall

Like other off-the-coast inland stone work and the sheer vastness gems like Imotski (page 78), Knin of the place. Despite it’s hinterland is a constant surprise—why don’t location, Knin was clearly one very more tourists come here?! Not important place. The town is also only was Knin the one-time capital famous for an enclave of splendid of Croatia during the 10thC when medieval churches and fascinating kings like Krešimir IV and Zvonimir archaeological finds like a trio of made their mark, but its stupendous Roman camps. ​And after all this fort, majestically looming over walking about, just a 30 minute the town is the second largest in drive takes you to Krka National all Europe. Beautifully restored, Park where you can cool off as well sitting 300 meters above as swim under its waterfalls! More everything in sight, its defensive reasons why Knin is exactly the walls are almost 2km long! You kind of terrific day trip you always can spend hours just admiring the hope for.​ http://www.tz-knin.hr/ 68 Makarska

Photo: Makarska Tourist Board

What makes so many Central nature (Biokovo Mountain Nature Dalmatian towns so fascinating Park is minutes away) and pulsing is how much of their history nightlife. During the summer and culture still remain--from months its harbor is jammed with Makarska’s prehistoric Illyrian yachts and tourist ships. At night, artifacts, Roman villas,Turkish the center of town is hopping with walls and Venetian nearby discos, bars and bistros. buildings to its 17thC beginnings For culture, head to the city’s as a popular Austrian resort town. waterfront museum, as well as St. Today, it’s a lively city of more Filip Church. For a gorgeous city than 15,000 that’s a perennial view, magnificent Mount Biokovo destination for international and the open sea, enjoy St. Petar travelers who love its sandy beach, park. Another big plus--a ferry almost 2 km long, pine tree-lined line to Sumartin on the island of walkways, hotels, campgrounds, Brač for a great day trip! www.makarska-info.hr/en/ 69 Discover Makarska! Enjoy gorgeous beaches, great nightlife, outdoor adventure on Mt. Biokovo! Explore ancient churches and monasteries, our world-famous museum of sea shells from around the world. Experience authentic Dalmatian cuisine and so much more. A beautiful drive along the coast, frequent bus service or come by Krilo catamaran from Split every day! Makarska Tourist Board Obala Kralja Tomislava 16 HR-21300 Makarska Phone: +385 21 612 002 E-mail: [email protected] www.makarska-info.hr

70 Krilo Eclipse daily from Makarska to Dubrovnik! --incl. Korcula and Miljet

Enjoy cruising on the Krilo Eclipse, big picture windows, lots of storage space and speeds up to 30 knots! Enjoy Makarska’s great beaches, restaurants and Biokovo Nature Park for the day!

Photo:May Augustina 27 - Oct. Worsham 26 Daily Schedule from/to Makarska (see page 62 for schedules from Split) Makarska-Dubrovnik Dubrovnik-Makarska 9:15 Makarska 16:00 Dubrovnik 10:20 Korčula 16:55 Mljet(Sobra) 11:15 Mljet 17:55 Korčula 12:15 Dubrovnik 19:15 Makarska

Tel. +385 21 645 476 Book online at www.krilo.hr We accept credit cards!

71 Omiš

Omiš is one of the most to Palestine. So powerful that in picturesque and fascinating 1221 Pope Honorius III organized towns in Central Dalmatia. Its a crusade against them—and sheer physical beauty--the lost. No wonder cities large and mountain range behind Split that small decided it was better to snakes it way down the coast pay tribute rather than lose their practically swallows the town ships. Today, Omiš is still all about when it gets here—is matched adventure—whitewater rafting, by its unusual history of being free climbing, hiking, zip lines and the home of the Adriatic’s most more. The winding back street old successful and feared pirates! town, ancient churches and burial For almost two centuries, Omiš grounds; a very good town beach pirates raided shipping from as and all that adventure make it a far away as Venice, and even perfect day trip by car or #60 bus attacked papal galleons sailing direct from Split’s Green Market. www.visitomis.hr/en/about-omis 72 73 Primošten

Photo: www.tz-primosten.hr

What a jewel of a town, so to get the full effect of discovering photogenic there’s even a place this private, wonderful charming where cars can park just off the world—lovely winding streets, highway so you can take your own pretty houses, small churches, fabulous photos. Dating back to steep steps down to some nice the 7thC BC, the site was called fine pebble beaches (Raduca is Kunara. An island for most of its a favorite with families because life, in the 16thC a wooden bridge of its shallow water) and that connecting it to the mainland marvelous sea air enveloping and defensive walls were built you as you make the grand circle to protect townsfolk against the walk around the entire island in Ottomans. Now an embankment less than an hour. Nice cafes and and more modern causeway let restaurants to sample the local both cars and pedestrians enjoy. cuisine and at night, a surprisingly Park outside and then stroll across hot club scene! www.tz-primosten.hr 74 Solin

Solin, just 6km from Split is a pretty early Christian remains, carved litle town with the River Roman sarcophagi and remnants flowing right through its winding of majestic entry gates, most of center. Nice cafes; restaurants Salona is still underground-- and a lovely park fronting the even its amphitheater has been beautiful 5 star President Hotel. stripped—looted by the Venetians. Surrounding all of this charm is the As you walk these vast meadows remains of Salona, whom Emperor that overlook the harbor behind Marcus Aurelius decreed in 170 Split’s port, it’s easy to see how AD to be the Roman capital of this was once a very great city. Dalmatia. It became so important, With a year round events schedule by Diocletian’s time, it was the and new restorations, spending a 3rd or 4th largest city in the day enjoying Solin/Salona is easy, empire with 50,000 inhabitants! rewarding and inexpensive—just Although there are some splendid take a bus or Uber! www.solin-info.com/en/ 75 www.solin-info.com

5 reasons to #visitsolin: Salona - explore Croatia's largest Roman-era archaeological site House Parać - experience authentic ancient workshops and exhibits 18. century old mill - see how farmers worked their harvest centuries ago St. Mary's isle - feel the beauty of the oldest Marian shrine in Croatia Festival 2019 - enjoy year round events from gladiator fights to food and heritage festivals

Experience Solin/Salona at www.solin-info.com

76 Sinj

Photo: Croatian National Tourist Board

Up and over the hills behind Split caused the rout, but all know are off-the-beaten-track discoveries it was the miracle! Every year, for the that every tourist yearns for. Sinj is past 304 years, the town honors its a world-class find. With a history triumph with the Alka, an authentic that began in the Bronze Age, knights tournament (see page 23). this fortified hill town has a lot The newly-opened Alka Museum to celebrate. Topping the list is a is a treasure and the Franciscan 1715 battle where 700 Sinj citizens Monastery Museum is downright faced ten thousand Ottoman Turks. gorgeous with Roman rarities like the Emboldened by a magical apparition head of Heracles and a 172 cm intact of the Virgin Mary the night before, statue of the goddess Diana Lucifera the Sinj defenders miraculously and much more. All this plus ancient fought off the Turks. Some claim it forts, pristine nature, trout fishing on was dysentery and starvation that the Cetina River and unique cuisine! www.visitsinj.com/en 77 Skradin

A little more than an hour on the restaurants and shops…but the toll-road from Split is Skradin. With back streets are quiet and lovely less than 4,000 lucky inhabitants, and as you climb higher, offer a it’s a charming little seaside town great harbor view. With direct gorgeously nestled in its own access to the sea, the town is a protected harbor downstream favorite of sailors. From traditional from the famous waterfalls at folk klapa singing to the roaring Krka National Park where the waterfalls of the Skradinski Buk, river meets the sea. It’s the water gateway to the Park, where you can Skradin is a marvelous find. And park your car and then board one so is their wine--more than 75 of the fleet of double decked water years ago a local vintage here won taxis for the short trip up river to the grand prix award in Toulouse, the entrance. The waterfront is France and was declared one of full of people, yachts, day boats, the six best wines in the world! http://www.skradin.hr/en/ 78 Šibenik

Photo: www,sibenik.in

First mentioned in 1066 by the and shops makes walking here a real Croatian king Petar Krešimir IV, pleasure. The crown jewels are St. Šibenik is Croatia’s oldest native James Cathedral (1431-1535!) and coastal town. Its picturesque harbor St. Nicholas Fortress, both UNESCO has been of constant importance World Heritage sites, the only city in throughout history. To protect Croatia with two such marvels!, The it against the mighty Ottoman cathedral is built entirely of stone, navy, the Venetians built a ring of without any binding materials, like fortresses above the town starting mortar! With triple-nave basilica, in the 16thC-- St. Michael, St. John a dome soaring to 32m and 71 and Šubićevac—all of which can realistic sculptural portraits around be toured. Just off the waterfront, the exterior, it’s wondrous. Close to ancient back streets (some with National Park (a necklace of wonderful carvings on the doors stunning islands) and Krka National of the wealthy), handsome squares Park make Šibenik a must! www.sibenik-tourism.hr/en/eng 79 Trogir

Photo: Hrvatsko geografsko društvo

On its own tiny island that you took 400 years to finish. Beginning can walk around in 30 minutes, with its supernatural entrance Trogir’s historic core, a UNESCO portal carved in 1240 replete with World Heritage site, is in a word, serpents, demons, life size nudes of astonishing. Founded by Greeks Adam and Eve, a four year old Jesus in the 3rdC BC, the symbol of the being given a way too hot bath town is the Greek god Kairos. A to the literal face of God looking relief with his image found here down at you from a basilica ceiling can be seen in the Benedictine inside, the magic and mystery Monastery. Few places on earth here is profound. The main square have had so much money spent medieval architectural ensemble, by so few people in such a small stone paved winding alleys, richly area to showcase their wealth ornamented facades, original and power. The Cathedral of St. Venetian-era city walls and Lawrence is their jewel and it Kamerlengo Fortress are fabulous. www.tztrogir.hr 80 UNESCO World Heritage sites

EIGHT DIFFERENT UNESCO SITES, ALL EASY DAY TRIPS!

Trogir 81 Experience the past There are 10 UNESCO World Dubrovnik old city Heritage sites in Croatia— Surrounded by majestic walls Šibenik is the only place with 2 and the Adriatic, with gorgeous These 8 are all easy day trips: 15th/16thC architecture, in the , it rivaled the Ager, Stari Grad, Hvar mighty Venetian Empire. During In the 4thC BC, the Greeks who the summer, the main square is settled this island laid out a teeming with tourists and it’s really sophisticated agricultural plain that hot. So try to do your sightseeing today is the oldest continuously before 9 or after 4. See page 61 farmed plot on the planet. It’s just a few minutes from where the ferry Plitvice Lakes National Park from Split docks. Buses to Stari A wondrous series of connecting Grad meet all ferries. See page 58 lakes, tumbling waterfalls, hiking trails, caves and forests that seem Cathedral of St. James, Šibenik to go on forever. The most visited A stunning example of high site in the country, despite its Renaissance art and architecture, vastness, it can be really crowded. set on its own handsome square Best bet, spend the night, or get near the harbor. Many tours to here before 9. See page 50 Krka National Park include a tour of this cathedral, so check to see if Trogir’s historic core the one you are booking does. Arguably ’s best- preserved Romanesque,Gothic St. Nicholas Fortress, Šibenik, built complex. The Cathedral of St. at the entrance to the narrow mile Lawrence is astounding inside and long channel of St Ana which is the out. Take a water taxi from Split access by sea to the Šibenik bay during the season or #37 bus if you don’t have a car. See page 78 Diocletian’s Palace and complex Walk in the footsteps of a Roman Zadar’s fortified city walls and emperor and see history evolving gates, once the largest city- in front of you from the 4thC to fortress in the entire Republic of present day. Avoid the crowds Venice, never fell to the Ottomans, and wait until later in the day allowing it keep more of its to experience this great living independence than most of its monument. See page 25 neighboring cities. www.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_World_Heritage_Sites_in_Croatia

82 AIRPORT TRANSFERS Fast JUST 40€! and really Fast!

We specialize in airport taxi transfers, day trips and scenic flights to all parts of Croatia and neighboring countries and fabulous scenic flights to the islands, Krka and more! English speaking professional drivers, spacious, comfortable cars and vans. And oh yes, really cool planes!

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