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Experience and Discover and Culture INDEX

What does this publication contain? 3 Catalonia, art and culture tourism destination 3 Year of Cultural Tourism, 2018 5

DISCOVER CATALONIA 6 Cultural Tourism Map 8 Catalonia in Facts and Figures 10 A Brief Culture 12

heritage and identity 16 Archaeology 18 20 Spirituality 32 Popular culture 38

Art and creativity 44 and 46 Music 52 Literature 60 Cinema and Theatre 64 Design, Fashion and Crafts 70 Gastronomy and Oenology 76

experience Catalonia 82 10 Ways to Experience Catalonia 84 Accessible Catalonia 86 With your Family 88 Touring Towns and Villages 92 Enjoying Natural Landscape 95 Cultural Getaways 98 Traditions 108

More Information 112 WHAT DOES THIS PUBLICATION CONTAIN?

The first part of this publication provides information about the dolmens as well as the architects who have won the prestigious Pritzker prize. It also mentions monuments recognised as UNESCO World Heritage Sites and that are still in operation today. This publication provides notes on wineries that look like and festivals in which dragons and devils are the main characters. Reference is made to world-renowned geniuses like Dalí, Miró, and Pau Casals and their immortal works. It provides the locations of concerts, festivals, and events in the fashion industry which attract millions of people. Film locations are described and the secrets of the most exciting literary works are told. And of course, reference is made to the rich gastronomy of these lands. The second part of this publication includes suggested routes that visitors can use to discover Catalonia through both its culture and its natural scenery.

Catalonia, destination FOR CULTURAL TOURISM

Catalonia has a wide array of cultural activities which allow visitors to travel in the footsteps of mankind, from the to present day inhabitants, exploring the Iberian, Greek, or Roman periods and their respective architectural styles, up to the modern day, when architects have become symbols of the new seeking a place in the world. To all of this, we must add a series of routes consolidated as tourist attractions like the Catalan portion of the Way of St James, the Cistercian Route, and the various routes related to cultural, industrial, and religious heritage, as well as the Ignatian Way. Furthermore, we cannot forget the infinite opportunities presented by the city of Barcelona or other unique cities like , , and (all connected by high-speed rail) or , , , , and Vilafranca del Penedès, which are ideal for urban tourism and combine attractions of cultural interest with various leisure activities. Don’t forget to explore the area’s world-renowned gastronomy and .

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2 / / 3 2018: THE YEAR OF CULTURAL TOURISM

On 27 April 2016, the European Parliament took the decision to name 2018 the “European Year of Cultural Heritage”. The main purpose of this designation is to raise citizens’ awareness regarding the history and values of and to strengthen their feeling of identity.

The Government of Catalonia takes on this European declaration as an opportunity to claim the role of culture and cultural heritage, both tangible and intangible, as a key factor that makes destinations in Catalonia different and unique.

Regarding tourism, the Catalan Tourist Board draws on this focus on culture in 2018 and has declared 2018 to be the “Year of Cultural Tourism”, in order to position culture as the main axis of distinction of the destination, and at the same time to help tourism give value to culture and contribute to its social and economic sustainability. This is a two-way challenge in which culture enhances the distinctiveness of the cultural tourist attractions, and tourism contributes to the promotion of culture.

This year, the objective is to place value on all cultural heritage, both the most internationally recognised heritage and the lesser known local heritage. In this way, the tourist board recognises that cultural heritage can be found throughout Catalonia, and there is an attempt to find balance between the different areas of Catalonia to ensure that the economic flows derived from cultural tourism reach all areas of the territory throughout the year.

All of this effort is invested so that visitors can get to know the cultural treasures of Catalonia more and more. The hope is that they will be able to experience and enjoy all of the sights and activities that Catalonia has to offer.

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4 / / 5 Discover CATALONIA

© miguel raurich

6 / Discover Catalonia Heritage and Identity / 7 catalonia in A FEW DATA A general outline of the country, with some information for visitors to familiarise

themselves with Catalonia at a glance. © lluís carro © imagen M.a.s.

atalonia is a small country on the Official languages cession, and the Spanish War of Succes- Mediterranean basin, in the north- Catalan and Spanish. Occitan or Aranese is sion, which ended with the abolition of the TOURIST BRANDS eastern part of the Iberian Penin- also an official language in the Val d’Aran. Catalan institutions and civil freedoms. In Val sula. At a little over 32,000 square the 19th century, the feeling of Catalan d’aran C kilometres in size, it offers an impressive Economy identity resurged to culminate in the 20th variety of tourist options. Are you ready to Catalonia is a country with a long industrial century with the recovery of political au- learn about some of its characteristics? tradition dating back to the 19th century. tonomy. Costa pirineus brava Today, industry, tourism, and services Climate are the country’s main economic sectors, Tourist brands Catalonia has a Mediterranean climate, as are agriculture and livestock. Catalonia is divided into nine distinct GIRoNA with hot summers and mild winters. The tourist brands, depending on the crite- terres paisatges girona de lleida barcelona palamós region’s varied geography gives the Cata- ria of the Catalan Tourist Board mar- lleida A note on history lan a cooler average tempera- Catalonia is a historic country formed from keting department. These tourist Costa lleIDA barcelona ture, whilst it is hotter in July and August in the Marca Hispánica, the border between brands, which are distributed as the inland districts of Lleida. Rain mainly Franks and Saracens in the . shown on this map, are Barcelona, Costa bARCeloNA Daurada barcelona falls between May and June. Greek and Early chronicles talk about the laborious Costa Barcelona, Costa Brava, Cos- Camp de el prat Roman ruins tarragona process of joining and Catalonia ta Daurada, Paisatges Barcelona, reus in empúries, Population Costa brava. under a single crown. Once achieved, bet- Pirineus, Terres de l’Ebre, Terres tARRAGoNA Rooftop of 7,516,254 inhabitants ween the 13th and 14th centuries it ex- de Lleida, and Val d’Aran. terres La Pedrera de l’ebre or casa milá, panded over the Mediterranean. The Mod- 9 by Antoni ern Ages are marked by the War of the brands or areas Surface area Gaudí, in MAKE UP tourist 32,107 km2 Barcelona. Reapers, Catalonia’s first attempt at se- map of Catalonia

8 / Discover Catalonia Heritage and Identity / 9 2015 rock paintings of the mediterranean arc Catalonia Val Abrics de la Serra de Godall d’aran (Ulldecona), La world (), Art Rupestre de les France Muntanyes de Prades (Montblanc) Andorra and other rock paintings.

VALL DE BOÍ 2010 2005 CASTELLERS heritage Andorra - La Seu PATUM OF Catalonia Paisatges Barcelona UNESCO has recognised the exceptional Declared a Declared a Masterpiece Masterpiece of the of the Oral and Oral and Intangible cultural importance of several landmarks 2000 THE ROMANESQUE CHURCHES Intangible Cultural Roses Cultural Heritage in Catalonia, which must be preserved OF LA VALL DE BOÍ BERGA Heritage of Humanity. of Humanity. and passed on to the future generations. Pirineus PIRINEUS Costa Sant Climent de Taüll, Santa Maria de Taüll, Sant Joan de Boí, Santa Eulàlia d’Erill la Vall, brava Sant Feliu de Barruera, La Nativitat de Durro, Sant Quirc de Durro, Santa Maria del Cardet, paisatges Assumpció de Coll. 2015 GIRoNA terres SUMMER SOLSTICE barcelona Girona Costa Brava de lleida FIRE FESTIVALS Pirineus Palamós UNESCO iven Catalonia’s rich history and Declared a Masterpiece of the World Lleida Reserva de culture, evident through both its Heritage Alguaire Oral and Intangible Cultural la Biosfera 1997 heritage sites and its intangible Heritage of Humanity. del Montseny PALAU DE LA MÚSICA cultural heritage, there are always UNESCO lleIDA Intangible World CATALANA G AND HOSPITAL places and concepts to add to the World Heritage 1991 DE SANT PAU Heritage list. Such is the case of the Turó de BARCELONA DE POBLET la Seu Vella in Lleida, a 13th to 14th century Costa Costa monumental complex that has become the Airport Daurada barcelona BARCELONA symbol of the city, and the interesting Port Barcelona portico of the monastery of , a Biblical Train Camp de El Prat Poblet Tarragona tale carved in stone in the 12th century. Reus Vilanova Distance between Capitals i la Geltrú B G L T These applications are accompanied by the 1984/2005 arcelonairona leida arragona Catalan and the day of Sant Jordi as works by Km Intangible Cultural Heritage, as well as Cata- terres TARRAGONA antoni Gaudí Barcelona 107 162 99 BARCELONA Girona 107 255 197 lan cuisine, which is influenced by the de l’ebre Park Güell, Palacio Güell, Lleida 162 255 101 variety of landscapes in Catalonia, the wide Casa Milá, , Tarragona 99 197 101 the work of Gaudí on the range of products, their degree of protec- Reserva de la Biosfera 2000 Nativity façade and the Average Daytime Temperatures tion, and the fact that the oldest recipe book de les Terres ARCHAEOLOGICAL of the Sagrada Familia, the de l’Ebre JanuaryF M A M June July A S O N Catalonia ENSEMBLE OF Casa Batlló, and the crypt ebruaryarch pril ay ugusteptemberctoberovemberDecember in Europe is written in Catalan. Work is also Costa Daurada of the Colonia Güell. under way on the candidacy of the Sant Carles Roman wall, Archaeological stroll, Roman ºC de la Ràpida -Montsant-Siurana and its high amphitheatre, Early Christian Museum and Barcelona 11 12 14 17 20 24 26 26 24 20 16 12 Necropolis, Roman Theatre, Colony forum, Girona 9 10 13 15 19 23 26 25 23 18 13 10 quality vineyards as UNESCO World Temple, the Circus, Pretorium (provincial Lleida 7 10 14 15 21 24 27 27 23 18 11 8 Forum), El Mèdol quarry, Berà , Tower Heritage site for its scenery. Tarragona 11 12 14 16 19 22 25 26 23 20 15 12 of the Scipios, Les Ferreres , Centcelles , Els Munts villa.

10 / Discover Catalonia Heritage and Identity / 11 A brief history of CATALAN culture It is through culture that we know history. What remains is a message from our predecessors, which reaches us in

the form of literature, music, painting, sculpture, and more. © imagen m.a.s. © Imagen m.a.s.

hroughout the land we now know these counts, who took advantage of the These were prosperous times from an eco- Jellyfish head, compiles several sermons given by a parish as Catalonia, there are various relaxation of the French Empire to gain nomic standpoint, with an increase in inter- Roman mosaic from the 3rd priest in this village of the Pyrenees. In addi- traces of human presence during more effective control of the country and nal and external commercial activity. And century, found tion to the Mediterranean expansion of the the period. It was the start a policy of alliances with the of they were also splendid years from a cul- in Tarragona. Gothic gallery Catalan-Aragonese Crown with figures like T of the Palau de arrival of the Greeks (in the 8th century BC) Barcelona and the . tural perspective, with (ar- King Jaume I, the 13th century is marked by and that of the Romans (218 BC) which be- Ramon Berenguer I, , chitecture, painting, and sculpture). This la generalitat, one of the best a great literary name, , the au- gan to configure a network of centres of is considered the first noble who gave Cata- climate of bonanza sowed the seed for a preserved thor of great philosophical discourses and population that were the origin of large ci- lonia a solid political structure through the new social class, the , which original pieces. other literary works. His texts mix mystical ties (Barcino, Tarraco, etc.) and the bulk of Corts and the usatges (a primitive civil began to question the power and old feudal questions with concepts of advanced logic. the cultural inheritance. code), thus weakening the power of the structures, and consumed and promoted In the mid-14th century, poor harvests, With the advance of the Arabs (8th cen- French king. It was count Ramon Berenguer culture. The first texts written in Catalan starvation, and epidemics hit Europe. Cata- tury), left the country’s de- IV who, through marriage to Princess Petro- also began to flou-rish. Les Homilies lonia was no exception. From a literary per- fence in the hands of the counts along the nila, crea-ted the alliance between the Ca- d’Organyà, a text written between the end spective, this period of time was when border. The conquest slowly strengthened talan kingdoms and the kingdom of Aragon. of the 12th century and early 13th century, some of the greatest Catalan authors ex-

2nd century BC 785 S. ix 11th and 12th 1400 1527 Aesculapius CharlemagneThe emperor Sant Quirze de Pedret Romanesque in the Vall de Boí Palau de la Generalitat Altar of the monastery of Poblet Sculpture in marble of the and the Considered one of the A set of nine churches declared Construction begins on the Palau Work in alabaster by the sculptor found in the Greek Gauls who conquered and UNESCO world heritage. de la Generalitat in the Gothic style. Damià Forment, considered to be ruins of Empúries. conceded Girona to the paintings in Catalonia. These are the ultimate expression This is the first headquarters of the one of the artists who ntroduced the French counts. of the Catalan Romanesque style. General Court of Catalonia. in the . © agustí carbonell © imagen m.a.s © imagen m.a.s

12 / Discover Catalonia Heritage and Identity / 13 celled: the poet Ausiàs March or In the 18th century, Europe experi- the novelist Joanot Martorell (au- enced a demand for national and thor of Tirant lo Blanc, which Cer- cultural identity. Catalonia did not vantes considered yo be a great stay out of this conflict. This roman- book of chivalry). tic spirit influenced the recove-ry of Social tension grew, especially the Romanesque and Gothic her- in the countryside, where people itage. One piece of from this were living under extreme conditions. period stands out: Oda a la Pàtria From an artistic perspective, this was in (1833), by Bonaventura Carles Aribau, is

the middle of the Gothic period. And every- © imagen m.a.s. considered an exaltation of the Catalan lan- thing results, in 1469, in the union between SKYLIGHT guage and the beginning of the Catalan of the palau the Catalan-Aragonese Crown and the King- de la música Renaixença after centuries of darkness. dom of Castile, with the marriage between catalana, 19th-century Catalonia was modernised A great work Fernando II of Aragon and Isabel I of Castile. of . at the rate of the . The They came to be known as the Catholic bourgeoisie became more powerful and Kings, the Maecenas of Christopher Colum- suggested a change of social model that bus’s expedition to America. This was the went against the rural model of the previous © jordi pareto great time for trade in the Mediterranean, as centuries. At the same time, a workers’ well as cultural exchange with other lands. movement was founded which called for the In 1640, tthe Reapers’ War took place be- rights of the factory workers, the other new the father of standardisation of modern Cata- Woman in the flame of Catalan culture was never extin- tween Catalonia and the Spanish Monarch night (1973), social class which came hand-in-hand with lan. During this time, Catalan culture also by joan miró. guished, as the people continued to stoke it Phillip IV. In 1659, as a consequence of the industrial growth. experienced particularly sweet moments, in secret. The writers Mercè Rodoreda and between and The 20th century brought with it the tur- such as the architectural ‘Modernisme’ of Josep Pla, the musician Pau Casals, the edi- France, Catalonia lost the territories north of moil of the First World War (1914-1918) on a Antoni Gaudí, and tor and novelist Joan Sales, the poet Salva- the Pyrenees, (under French jurisdiction ever global scale, and the military dictatorship of Lluís Doménech i Montaner, the literary dor Espriu are some examples of this culture since). When Phillip V came to the throne, Primo de Rivera (1923-1930). The Second period known as ‘’ with Josep in the shadows. Catalonia was stripped of all of its privileges. Republic (1931-1936) created the expecta- Carner or Eugeni d’Ors, or the avant-garde After the death of Franco (1975), Catalonia This is the time of the siege of Barcelona, the tion that would take place, but paintings with Joan Miró and Salvador Dalí. started to recover institutions and public cul- destruction of part of the Born district, and this was truncated by the For Catalonia, General Franco’s dictator- tural life. Publishing and media revived: TV3 the construction of the Ciutadella military (1936-1939). ship (1939-1975) was particularly repressive in 1983 and the newspaper in 1976. complex. Despite these circumstances, The benefited from a on its distinct cultural traits. In any case, The literature, language, and design crossed Catalonia experienced an increase in its process of the standardisation lead by a very thanks to the untiring work of many anony- borders and musical and theatrical events of commercial activity. important figure: , considered mous individuals and public figures, the international renown were established.

1716 1882 1898 1932 1962 1994 Demolition of the Born district Sagrada Familia Publicity General dictionary The Time of the Doves Sónar Festival Work begins on the construc- The first stone is laid The painter Ramón Casas Pompeu Fabra publishes Publication of the novel by First edition of the leading tion of the Ciutadella fortress. of what will become wins the contest to illustrate the first standard dictionary Mercè Rodoreda, which has festival of advanced music, Today the remains can be the emblem of Antoni the Codorniu sign. These are for the Catalan language. been translated into more now repeated in different seen at the Born Centre Cultural. Gaudí’s work. the beginnings of design. than 30 languages. countries.

© GZ © GZ © GZ

14 / Discover Catalonia Heritage and Identity / 15 © imagen m.a.s.

© lluís carro magen m.a.s. © I

HERITAGE And identity

The men and women who lived in Catalonia for centuries left their mark on the territory. In other words, they made hundreds of thousands of small contributions that form the heritage that Catalonia has to offer its visitors today. Sharing this wealth of heritage is a reason for joy, as it means that there was awareness of its importance, work was done to maintain it and to recover it in some cases, and to preserve it for future generations. This little country and its cultural heritage have received 16 recognitions of tangible and intangible cultural World Heritage by UNESCO. Who wouldn’t want to experience these cultural sites and events for themselves? © Miguel angel alvarez © Oriol llauradó

16 / Discover Catalonia Heritage and Identity / 17 Archaeology The new life in Tarraco Images It was the capital of the Imperial province of Citerior. Each year, it continues to be an important Roman city when of the past its evocative ruins are brought back to life. Stones talk and in Catalonia they tell a story that started © montse riera. GZ 8,000 years ago, continued in the 6th century BCE in the Iberian

enclaves and continued with the arrival of the Greeks and Romans. In the year 218 BCE, some soldiers set up a Gladiator show The same sun that lit up Tarraco continues to military camp, establishing Tarraco. Later, the at the Tarraco rise over the Costa Daurada. Every May, a Ro- Viva festival. Emperor Augustus lived there and turned it into man festival is celebrated at the site. In the 21st deer watches a hunter coming Thousands of years after the paintings a model of urban development. Today, the an- century, men and women dressed in togas and towards it with his bow pulled. were made, the native peoples established cient city of Tarraco is a UNESCO World Heri- sandals are still seen in the streets. Also many Further along, another painting their capital at the Iberian site of tage site and is visited in awe by thousands of restaurants give off the aroma of the same dishes shows a hunt, and below, a figure (Costa Brava). Thanks to dramatised visits, classic ages lovers. The wall is one of the best that were served in antiquity. This is the Tarraco A preserved monuments, but others are even more Viva International Cultural Festival, which aims of a wizard appears. These are some of the as you stroll through the site, you can hear more than 400 rock paintings that can be the sound of the market or watch the Ibe- impressive, such as the 2nd century amphithe- to bring Tarraco back to life for a few days. The seen in the Serra de Godall, in Ulldecona rian farmers return to their fields just as atre by the sea. Not very far away, amongst the 4,5 company Nemesis offers historical recreations (Terres de l’Ebre), one of the many sites on ROCK PAINTINGS they did many centuries ago. ruins of the circus (one of the best preserved in KILOMETRES: and guided tours (www.nemesisarch.com). You SHELTERED the Mediterranean Basin declared a Europe), you can still hear echos of the citizens THE LENGTH are welcome to revisit the most ancient BY L’ERMITA OF THE WALL UNESCO World Heritage site in 1998. D’ULLDECONA. New neighbours shouting at the chariot races. OF TARRACO Rome. Nearby, the Greeks set up their first colony in Catalonia in the 6th century BCE. Empúries was a small community which soon became an active centre, a bustling The , live port receiving boats full of wine, oil, jewels If you are between Barcelona and Tarragona at the end of July, you cannot miss the chance to visit the Iberian Citadel of Calafell. It offers living history activities or fabrics, which left again loaded with the for everyone in this singular site rebuilt using the methodologies of cereals, metals or leathers they sold. experimental archaeology. You can admire the warriors, mint your own coin, test The Iberians must have watched those your skills with the slingshot, and learn games of the time from a Roman soldier, people who idolised the God Asclepius amongst other experiences. The activity can be done in Catalan, Spanish, and English (on request) in the second fortnight of July. with curiosity. They did not know that the aurich Greeks would open the door to the Ro- mans, who would end up dominating the iguel R i For more information www.www.calafellhistoric.org © callafell històric © M Iberian peninsula.

18 / Discover Catalonia Heritage and Identity / 19 Architecture From the dolmens to the Stones Jewish ghettos Prehistoric monuments, synagogues, that talk maze-like districts... This is how we see the legacy of the different cultures Mysterious dolmens, arrogant castles, luminous cathedrals... that have inhabited Catalonia. Visiting these sites is a thrilling way to discover the history of humanity. © imagen m.a.s.

o remember loved ones, to defend A walk through time One night, 5,000 years ago in the natural area of the courtyard ming with history and legends and located in a of the oneself or to show one’s own Catalonia’s 32,108 km2 allows visitors to l’Albera (Costa Brava), a community was shaken district occupied by bookbinders, goldsmiths, bonestruc power ... Architecture has left its conduct a day trip through history, starting by the death of its chief. And among the sadness ça porta doctors, and lawyers. On more than one occa- centre in mark on Catalonia since Neolithic with a dolmen, such as the Creu d’en and fear of forgetting the chief, someone had the sion, they all descended the stairs leading to the T girona, and the times and has changed the landscape with Cobertella Dolmen (Costa Brava), idea of raising large slabs vertically and placing gentile stone ancient synagogue in calle de Sant Domènec del dolmen on the constructions that speak of other times. continuing on to visit and learn about the another horizontal stone on them. Today in Catalo- Call, a construction which is believed to date from costa brava. One million and a half visitors bear witness Cardona Castle (Paisatges Barcelona), nia, we can still admire the dolmens that stand in the 9th century and which is not only the oldest to this every year when they visit the experiencing the feeling of being in a memory of those men and women who left mark. synagogue in the city, but is also the oldest syna- Dalinian Triangle of Figueres, Portlligat, mediaeval religious site through places The Jewish community, which was very im- goge in Europe. and Púbol (Costa Brava), the Vall de Boí such as the Sant Joan de les Abadesses portant in Catalonia between the 10th century (Pirineus) and (Barcelona), to Monastery (Pirineus), and learning about and the time when they were expelled in the 15th la Pedrera cardona mention just three great tourist landmarks. castle. the progress Catalonia made during the century, left signs of their presence. Visitors can Industrial Revolution through visits to admire the Jewish quarter in Girona, where they locations such as the Colonia Vidal, in can still explore its narrow and steep streets, go Puig-reig (Paisatges Barcelona). into the synagogues whose beautiful courtyards In the great Catalan capital cities, the are filled with colourful floral decorations every architecture of the late 19th century and May, visit the Jewish History Museum or the early 20th Century has become a Bonestruc ça Porta Centre. Not very far away, in demonstration of power and refinery of Besalú, visitors will find one of the three miqvé the bourgeoisie, as in the case of the or Jewish baths remaining on the continent. In house of Navàs de Reus (Costa Daurada). Tortosa, a 5th century synagogue can be ad- o Today, singular buildings appear that are mired as well. important for their use or for the art, like Barcelona’s Jewish Quarter also invites visi-

© lluís carr Torre Glòries (Barcelona). tors to wander through its winding streets brim- © servicios editoriales georama

20 / Discover Catalonia Heritage and Identity / 21 CASTLES AND Monasteries, FORTRESSES churches, Castles and fortresses sanctuaries fill borderlands which in history were often subject Religious buildings to attacks and sieges. have always had a clear will of representation to show the great power of the .

© imagen m.a.s.

The Romanesque bell towers that seem to con- sant climent Created between the 11th and 13th centuries, © NAnO CAÑAS de taüll. nect sky and land, are a symbol of identity of the when Catalonia was shaping its identity, the Vall de Boí (Pirineus). A blue sky, high peaks, Romanesque constructions are spread around This is the night of the de peralada crystal-clear water, and ever present greenery the whole country. The colossal monastery of castle. festival. It takes place in a wonderful location Monumenta: are the backdrop to breathtaking architecture. (Costa Brava) stands on with hotels, casino and even a museum and a welcome to the castle Nine churches in the area were declared UNES- the Rodes hill range with unbeatable views of church. The building dates back to the 9th CO World Heritage in 2000. The value is due to the bay of Llançà. And the monastery of Santa In Catalonia, visitors can stay in a mediaeval castle, century and was occupied by real soldiers with the stylistic unity of their functional and beautiful Maria de Ripoll (Pirineus), with its overwhelming visit a defence tower turned into an artist’s studio, shields and armour. or organise an event in a Romanesque building. Lombard Romanesque buildings. With their series of portals and which is a true stone Bible, Peralada Castle is one of the remaining The owners of the remaining castles in Catalonia, characteristic half point and cannon is a masterpiece of 13th-century Romanesque fortifications that was built in Catalonia on the such as the Riudabella Castle, belong to a group domes inherited from Roman architecture, Ro- sculpture. To the south, the Santa Tecla Cathe- borderlands that needed to be defended. This called Monumenta, which opens these historic manesque architecture was the first clearly dral in Tarragona (Costa Daurada), built be- places to the public and which has protected is also the case for of castles such as Christian style. It will be discovered by whoever tween 1170 and 1331, rises at the highest point and disseminated information on Catalonia’s Castle (Terres de l’Ebre) and the many border architectural legacy for over 25 years. visits the Romanesque Centre (www.centrero- of the city, as the temple of Augustus once did. castles in the Terres de Lleida. Some ended manic.com), which in the valley itself, offers all Sober and austere, the monasteries of the up as homes, others were turned into hotels information that visitors might need to discover Cistercian order also bear witness to the passing and many can be visited, such as Montsonís this stone paradise. Essential too is a visit to the from the Romanesque period to the Gothic pe- Castle. The flag waves on the Tower of Homage Museu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (MNAC, riod. They stand between vineyards, almond, there are to indicate that the castle is still inhabited and Barcelona), where in the early 20th century the IN CATALONIA and groves on lands which were in Muslim that some rooms cannot be visited. The family original paintings were transferred from the THERE ARE hands until the 12th century. Among the best For more of Carles de Montoliu i Carrasco, present 600 i churches of Boí, as well as in stone preserved is the monastery of , information barron of Albí resides in the castle. castles and and wood, to protect them from being sacked 1.900 which contains the pantheons of the counts of fortifications www.monumenta.info Romanesque in Catalonia. and sold. buildings Barcelona and the kings of Aragon and .

22 / Discover Catalonia Heritage and Identity / 23 construction, rises above the rooftops of Barce- lona as a symbol of the Catalan capital. In the crypt of the Colònia Güell, in Santa Coloma de Cervelló (Barcelona), Gaudi tried out innovative architectural techniques that are worth admiring. Iconic The colourful interior windows show from dizzying inclined columns to amazing and lordly vaults. In the Secuita (Costa Daurada) the church of the Sagrat Cor in Vistabella is a small houses modernista gem created by , an architect who worked with Gaudí, with lavish A new social class came decoration full of theological allusions. to the world of luxury and © imagen M.A.S. decided to install its own style The Route of the Temple Not very far away, the monastery of Santa Maria the monastery The Order of the Knights Templar, founded in the to proclaim its rise throughout de Poblet, which is still active and is also a pan- of Santa maria 11th century to protect the pilgrims on their way to the country. de vallbona, © Miguel raurich theon of the kings of Aragon, is the most impres- known as Jerusalem, left castles and churches in Catalonia sive stop on the Cistercian Route, so much so vallbona de and Aragon that can be visited today on the Do- les monges, that it was declared UNESCO World Heritage on the Ruta mus Templi Route, promoted by the councils of The Ensanche connected ancient Barcelona with casa rull, In Reus, Terrassa, Tarragona, and Mataró, to in reus, by Site in 1991. With its Gothic domes, the intimate del CÍSTER. Monzón, Lleida, Miravet, Tortosa, and Peñíscola. the surrounding villages. Industrialists and traders name but a few cities, it is possible to admire the the architect history of , which still One of the best specimens of the architecture of set up there and contracted the most innovative domènech i houses designed by no less illustrious mOntaner. houses a community of , illustrates the role the Temple is the Gardeny complex (Terres de architects. In the Casa Batlló, Gaudí recreated modernista architects. of women in mediaeval life. Lleida) from the mid-12th century which is located the legend of Sant Jordi, but you have to see the The ‘indianos’, the returning upon on a strategic hill. The route also includes stops in Pedrera to get a real taste of Gaudinian genius. Cuban independence, had a lot to do with the Delirious modernismE emblematic places such as la Suda, in Tortosa, Puig i Cadafalch gave a neomediaeval air to the appearance of luxurious houses which can still be In 1883, Gaudí began to work on the Sagrada which stands imposing over the profile of the Tem- , although one of his best- seen in Catalonia, and which particularly abound Familia, a titanic project of which he completed plar capital of the . known creations, which blends the Catalan in coastal places from Sitges (Costa Barcelona) to the and the Birth facade. More than a hun- Gothic and the Northern European Flemish styles, or Cadaqués (Costa Brava). dred years later, the work, which is still under is the Casa Ametller, on Passeig de Gràcia.

in the order of the temple DISCOVER LA PEDRERA What was life like for the Knights Templar? What did they eat? How did they dress? How The Casa Milà, popularly known as la Pedrera, is a building that excellently did they prepare for battle? The former Gardeny Command, an imposing 12th century combines fantasy and functionality and which has become an essential visit for fortress, invites you to tour its rooms and experience the daily life of a Templar knight. anyone coming to Barcelona. Gaudí culminated his career after completing this To achieve this, objects of the time have been recreated, such as a military uniform work. He built a modernista building adapted to the new social needs, without from the mid-13th century, which visitors must try on. losing sight of nature as a source of inspiration. A self-guided visit goes through The visit ends with a small tasting session and a glass of wine or cava from Catalonia. the most iconic areas of the building. Accessible activity available in more than This family experience can be had on a summer evening or an autumn or spring day 10 languages. Recommended for everyone, available at all times of year, and is offered in Catalan and Spanish. Accessible activity. except during the season.

i For more information www.turismedelleida.cat/viure-a-lleida/el-castell-de-gardeny i For more information www.lapedrera.com

24 / Discover Catalonia Heritage and Identity / 25 the textile colonies In the late 19th century, factories set up alongside the river to draw its energy from it. As a result, factories, residential centres grew with schools and chapels, as well as the comfortable houses of the mines, and owners and the humble dwellings of the workers. Now these times can be relived on a visit to the colonies colonies and their interpretation centres in Puig- reig or Gironella, among others. Oil mines? Cement factories? These activities are promoted and coordinated The Industrial Revolution by the Network of Industrial Tourism of Catalonia radically changed the Catalan (XATIC), which gathers more than twenty-five Catalan municipalities interested in preserving countryside. It is worth and showing their legacy. seeing how. © Turismo verde, s.l. © Imagen M.A.s. technology from other times An open top car from 1943, an extravagant Everyone aboard! This little railway crosses Salt mines stages. Until 1975, it was full of workers covered a sea of oil Museu de la motorcycle from 1950, a solar car that seems to ciència i de forests, offering views of the river and in cardona. with ever-present dust. Today, it is visited by The most adventurous will venture into the be from another planet, a television with la tècnica leading us by gardens with caves, paths, and tourists who want to learn more about industrial depths of the Riutort Oil Mine (Pirineus). de catalunya, magnifying glass from 1930, a phonograph from in terrassa. strange figures projected byA ntoni Gaudí. This is heritage. Millions of years ago this was sea, and the the early 20th century: All of these and many the so-called Cement Train, a demonstration of The former complex and its Cement Museum creatures that lived there became the oil that more apparatuses form part of the collections of how much fun it can be to visit industrial heritage. bear witness to the effect of the Industrial still exudes from the mine’s walls. Not far from the Museu de la Ciència i de la Tècnica de The train connects La Pobla de Lillet with the Revolution. It transformed the Catalan country- here, in , it is possible to feel like one of Catalunya (mNACTEC), a facility created in natural site of El Clot del Moro (Pirineus). In 1901, side and also the life of its inhabitants. The country the miners who, over 150 years, worked in the 1990 in order to preserve and disseminate Eusebi Güell (Maecenas of Gaudí) and his 3.500 filled with the most diverse of industries, many of coal mines. Others will prefer a walk 86 metres Catalonia’s industrial heritage. It is located in the metres of partners set up the Asland cement works there in which can now be visited, allowing people to see underground, in the Cardona Salt Mine building of a modernista factory designed by tracks has the a modernista factory descending the mountain in Cement Train these ancient technologies first hand. (Paisatges Barcelona). Lluís Muncunill in Terrassa. www.mnactec.cat

XATIC, the network of industrial tourism experiencing glass This network offers guided tours and experiences to production areas, museums, Have you ever drunk water from a glass wine pitcher with a spout and wondered facilities, interpretation centres, and factories that are still in operation in order to how the device is made? Or a setrill, a traditional Catalan oil cruet? What is the promote industrial tourism and disseminate Catalonia’s rich heritage. The activities process for creating and decorating a lamp? In the Museu i Forn del Vidre de offered are experiential in nature, and are often intended for the whole family. The Vimbodí i Poblet you can find the answers to all these curiosities and many more. Museu de les Mines de Cercs, for instance, in addition to the classical guided tours, You can also experience the processes and enhance creativity with the workshops provides visitors with a new museum space called “The spectacle of the mine”, explaining different artisanal and traditional techniques for working glass. to understand how works in the 21st century. The activity is designed for the whole family and is offered in Catalan and Spanish every month of the year.

i For more information www.turismeindustrial.cat and www.mmcercs.cat i For more information www.museudelvidre.cat

26 / Discover Catalonia Heritage and Identity / 27 THE discover cathedrals the secrets of wine of THE industry It looks like a church, Factories of all kinds open their doors but it is a winery. The wine to the public. Once inside, you can cooperatives took the see how cava is made... or how architectural marvels of a film is shot. modernisme into the country.

© Imagen M.A.s. © oriol llauradó

A majestic facade, large ogival arches, and a interior of the cooperatives with sufficient resources to build Golden bunches ready to be picked hide the factory Popular culture is also accessible thanks to of of torrons unique combination of stone, open brick work, new wineries with modern facilities and ma- amongst the leaves of the vine. They wait for places such as the Toni Mujal sculpture work- wine in Pinell vicens, in and ceramic; the building which is now home to de Brai. chinery. visitors strolling amongst the vineyards to dis- , shop for giants and festive figures, in Cardona and sweets the winery of the Espluga de Francolí Agricul- Architects like Cèsar Martinell, a student of cover them. They will better appreciate the (Paisatges Barcelona), where it is possible to in the espai tural Cooperative, (built in 1913 and now known Gaudi, Josep Puig i Cadafalch, and Pere magical process of this sparkling wine. They xocolata simón see how a giant or a legendary dragon is born. coll, in Sant as the Wine Museum), is just as impressive as a Domènech i Roura, son of Lluís Domènech i are in Cavas Vilarnau, in Sant Sadurní d’ It is even possible to visit the plateaus of the sadurní. temple. Therefore, when the poet and Montaner, built impressive buildings in Mont- (Costa Barcelona). Others have preferred to Catalonia Audiovisual Park in Terrassa (Barce- dramatist Àngel Guimerà visited the place, he blanc, Santes Creus, Falset, Gandesa, and Sant enjoy the aroma of the cocoa bean on a visit to lona), which are open to the public to have defined it as a ‘cathedral of wine’. Sadurní d’Anoia, to name just a few Catalan the Espai Xocolata - Simón Coll, also in Sant some of the most exciting experiences of the The expression caught on and was soon also wine areas. Sadurní d’Anoia, in which they will discover cultural industry. applied to other wineries appearing in the early how chocolate in almost all of its forms is pro- 20th century. To know why the modernista the force of bubbles duced. buildings devoted to transforming grapes into It was precisely in Sant Sadurní, the Mecca of Many food companies in Catalonia wine proliferated in this way, we have to put the Catalan sparkling wine, where a modernista encourage citizens not only to consume their ourselves in the shoes of a pro- architect who had already created outstanding products, but also to visit their factories to see ducer of the late 19th century. A plague from works in Barcelona, Josep Puig i Cadafalch, was how they are made. America, phyloxera, had forced him to pull up commissioned to create a complex that would Some, like Torrons Vicens in Agramunt all of his vines and replace them with immune reflect the size of the company Codorníu. Here (Terres de Lleida), use the latest technologies to varieties, which would begin to become pro- 8 visitors can disappear in the labyrinth of under- describe the history of the master nougat ma- ductive after a few years. Realising that it would points ground galleries in which the Catalan cava slow- kers. Visitors can also see biscuit factories, of interest be impossible to survive such a large problem form the ly and silently rests. Sooner or later, they will see breweries, fish farms, and more. All open their alone, he began to associate with others in the Route of the a series of buildings where the style of the archi- doors to whoever wants to know where the ModernistA same situation. This gave rise to a multitude of Wineries. tect is clearly recognisable. products on their table come from. © marc castellet

28 / Discover Catalonia Heritage and Identity / 29 Contemporary architecture Towers of colours and a sea on a rooftop welcome visitors to to an inhabited museum that includes masterpieces of the best contemporary architecture.

© Imagen M.A.s. © joan puig. GZ

A giant cylinder emerges from the floor, like a the interior tive centre devoted to design (designed by the evidence of the city’s transformation for the The torre one to , thus countering the drama of of the Macba glòries lit up. rocket about to take off, and rises to 144 metres. MBM studio in 2014) looks out over the Plaça de Olympic Games in 1992. At the heart of the old the contents on display. in barcelona At night, the glass surface covering it lights up, and the les Glòries. Its avant-garde architecture finds city, the modern dark glass interior façade of the covered producing a show of colours that warns visitors. continuity in the buildings of the district 22@, the Centre de Cultura Contemporània de Barcelo- square of the RCR: from the local This is the Torre Glòries (formerly Torre Agbar), teatre la lira area where several communication technology na (Albert Vilaplana and Helio Piñón, 1993) re- to the universal in ripoll, the one of the new icons of the city of Barcelona, companies have their headquarters. Beyond flects the 19th-century buildings. Alongside it, The avant-garde cuisine based on proximity work of the built in 2005 by Jean Nouvel. Very nearby, we RCR studio. this, on the new section of the Diagonal which the North American Richard Meier applied his products offered by the Les Cols restaurant in have the Disseny Hub Barcelona. This innova- was urbanised in 2004, the city is now filled with reinterpretation of rationalism to the Museu found its perfect match in the architecture skyscrapers. d’Art Contemporani de Barcelona, a luminous of the studio of Ramon Vilalta, Carme Pigem These are the last chapters of Barcelona’s building opened in 1995. More recently, the un- and Rafael Aranda (RCR). RCR won the Pritzker long love story with architecture, the same dulating ceramic rooftop of the Santa Caterina award, the most prestigious architecture award which in the 1980s made the council decide to Market reminds us, like a multicoloured sea, on the planet, in 2017. It won it for works that rebuild the German pavilion for the Internation- that this is the city where the architect Enric Mi- play with glass, light, and water (Les Cols pavi- al Exhibition of 1929. Montjuïc recovered a ra- ralles was born. lions in Olot), that blend in with the natural land- tionalist work by Mies van der Rohe, which However, not all of the signs of contemporary scape (Tossols-Basil athletics stadium in Olot), with its austere and intimate beauty is still con- architecture are in Barcelona. In , or which use glass and steel to renovate a dy- sidered avant-garde, just as it was a hundred by the border with France, the architects Rafael namic urban complex in a street block (Sant An- years ago. Cáceres and Philippe Pous designed the Mu- toni - Joan Oliver Library in Barcelona). The team The Hotel (the work of Bruce Graham), seum of Exile. The aim of this centre is to pre- of architects also did the interior design for the communications towers built by Norman Foster serve the memory surrounding the exile of Re- Enigma restaurant, the latest adventure of Albert on Collserola and Calatrava on publicans caused by the Civil War. Opened in Adrià and his team. Montjuïc, and large sports infrastructures such 2008, its façade with different bodies hides a as the Sant Jordi Pavilion by Arata Isozaki, are series of light diaphanous spaces that induce © hisao suzuki. GZ

30 / Discover Catalonia Heritage and Identity / 31 Spirituality Christianity. CENTRE OF DEVOTION ATTRACTION At one time, the Christian faith had to diversity a large influence on Catalan culture and geography.Visitors can enjoy the Cathedrals, synagogues and sikh temples coexist in this welcoming experience of discovering the spiritual land where prayers are said and mantras are recited. side of Catalonia. © oriol llauradó

he Plaça Reial in Barcelona is fa- Spiritual life Is it theatre or religion? It is difficult to separate THE PAssion sation of living Nativity scenes, with figures of olesa. mous for its porches that shelter The multitude of religions is normal in a both things in the performances of the Passion portrayed by real people, at Christmas time. The terraces. Before becoming a country where, according to the Autono- of the Christ held in Olesa de Montserrat and , also has its roots in a mediae- T square, in the 18th century, the mous , one out of Esparreguera. Every year between March, April, val religious performance. space was a large convent founded by every four places of worship is not Catho- and May, theatres specifically chosen to receive Catholicism left its mark on the holiday calen- the Capuchins. Today, in one of the many lic. All it takes is a stroll through in Barce- the show fill with actors and extras (between dar of Catalonia, as well as its geography and flats in this square, there is a Hare Krishna lona, Tarragona, Lleida or Girona, or even 500 and 600), residents of these towns who, customs. There has been an organised Christian temple open to anyone who wants to towns such as Salt and , to rea- with the help of remarkable stage teams and the church in Catalonia since the middle of the third visit. In the same district, we find spaces of demonstration lise that the people living in Catalonia to- original soundtrack, put on an amateur produc- century. The 7th-century Muslim domination BY the hare worship for Muslims, Sikhs, and people of KRISHNA group day have enriched the spiritual life of the tion of this play that details the life of marked a break in the practice, the end of which other religions. in barcelona. land by bringing a variety of beliefs that Christ. Tradition has a lot to do with the organi- brought about the creation of national identity range from and Buddhism to the Baha’i faith. These religions live together in harmony, and in Catalonia you can visit a Hindu fes- the cathedral: secrets and legends tival like the Ratha Yatra, see a Catholic To be able to have this experience, pay attention to the guide and take note of the proportions: 25% alchemist, 18% witch, 11% inquisitor, 7% midwife, 5% procession go by, or visit a Buddhist mon- soul, 2% mystery, and 1% legend. This is the formula to avoid missing a single astery in the massif. Maybe Catalo- detail of the night tour through the Old Town of Barcelona, around the cathedral. nia’s status as a haven has to do with the It is an activity for adults that is available all year round. The tour can be history of these lands, which were crossed conducted in Catalan, Spanish, French, and English. by the Muslims, inhabited by Jewish com- munities, given over to the Christian faith, and finally becoming a place that values i For more information www.barcelonacatedral.com

© Miguel perales. gz diversity based upon respect.

32 / Discover Catalonia Heritage and Identity / 33 Catalonia Sacra: discover ITS religious

© gz heritage Hermitages, cathedrals, and monasteries and the emergence of the Romanesque period. the church began at the end of the 19th century and safeguard a million fascinating secrets. of montserrat. Some time later, the first Cistercian monasteries was the work to which the architect Antoní Gaudí Why not let an expert tell you about them? appeared, such as Poblet and Santes Creus, applied all of his knowledge, and all of his religious which combined their role as spiritual centres with passion, as he was a fervent Catholic. © GZ that of places for culture and centres for the colo- www.sagradafamilia.org nisation of a territory in need of repopulation. Visitors who have been to the Cathedral of Sant ROUTES OF PILGRIMAGE and the cave Pere in Vic (Paisatges Barcelona), go on a unique Many travellers have crossed inland Catalonia The magic mountain of saint The choir raises its pure voices inside a THE FIRST journey. They are not satisfied with simply seeing ignatius, along the routes of pilgrimage. Some follow the in manresa. hanging off the mountain. This is one of the oldest CHRISTIANS OF TARRACO the neoclassical building (1803). They will also Way of St James, a series of different routes children’s choirs in Europe and one of the most The route of the first Christians of Tarraco go out onto the roof and see some extraordinary with various accessible sections going towards characteristic images of the Monastery of Mont- goes through places that were the scenes of places located on top of the church. They have and passing through points such as the serrat, a mythical spiritual centre that was built the progressive introduction of Christianity in the privilege of walking across the cathedral’s monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes and Barcelona after the finding of a black virgin (called “la More- Hispanoromanic society of Roman Tarragona. The roof tiles and past the domes that cover it to see Cathedral. route includes eight milestones, between which neta”) in a cave in the 9th century. It is located in a what nobody sees. Once inside the building, Another route shares the same path but goes we find museums and monuments. A visit is made mountain range in central Catalonia formed by to the chapel of Sant Pau, the Cathedral and the they can contemplate the paintings of Josep in the opposite direction: this is the Ignatian clusters of jagged rocks that point to the heavens. Diocesan Museum, the Tarragona Biblical Museum, Maria Sert, one of the most outstanding mural- Way. Ignatius, the man who later became the www.montserratvisita.com the amphitheatre of Tarragona, the Forum of the ists of the 20th century. founder of the Company of Jesus, spent a year Colony, the Early Christian basilica of the Central Park, This is just one of the many experiences trav- in the a cave in Manresa, where the saint had his the Early Christian Necropolis and the Centcelles ellers are given by Catalonia Sacra, a tourist most significant spiritual experiences. A PASSION FOR GAUDI archaeological complex. In the central nave of the Sagrada Familia, the The activity is offered all project in which the ten Catalan archbishops and www.camidesantjaumeperatothom.cat, light filters in through the stained-glass windows year round in Catalan, a good number of experts in religious heritage www.camidesantjaume.cat, caminoignaciano.org and gives the space a breathtaking appearance. Spanish and English, participate, and which seeks to promote the ar- Outside, the spires rise marking the profile of the and the route is tistic and architectural treasures of the church- accessible. temple. When it is complete (in 2026) it will have es. However, not all of the churches are large twelve spires dedicated to the apostles, and four 50 constructions. Sometimes it is the abandoned more to the evangelists, although the main spires BOYS hermitages or the isolated monasteries which form the will be that of the Virgin Mary, and the highest, at give visitors the most stimulating experiences. Choir of 172.5 metres, Jesus Christ. Construction of the Montserrat www.cataloniasacra.cat osé pascual

34 / Discover Catalonia © Juan j Monasteries and sanctuaries in full activity Time seems to go more slowly in monasteries, but we mustn’t be mistaken; they are full of activity and welcome visitors with open arms.

© imagen m.a.s. © gz

Ora et labora. The maxim that was applied to Montserrat Sanctuary of the Miracle of Lleida, founded in part of the original decoration as well as the new monastery the life of the first Benedictine monasteries Monastery 1899 and inhabited by a community of Benedic- Buddhist images. of de Library. les avellanes. poblet FROM the inside also governs those of the 21st century. St tine monks. Or of the monasteries along the When they enter the largest Cistercian monastery Benedict founded his order in the 6th century Cistercian Route which still maintain active Les Avellanes or the archives in Europe, inhabited by a community of monks and established a rule which gave as much im- communities, such as the impressive Poblet, of the marists following Benedictine rule, visitors are submerged portance to the exercise of spiritual life as to one of the largest monasteries in Europe, where Amidst forests, mountains, and fields of crops into a ‘world of forms, traditions, and symbols’ as Josep Pla described it. The architectural, artistic, work. It is applied in the monastery of Mont- a community of monks resides, or the monas- in Os de (Terres de Lleida), in 1166 a and historical importance of this place overwhelms serrat (Paisatges Barcelona), which is home to tery of Santa Maria de Vallbona, where a com- monastery was founded that would soon be- spectators and makes them wonder about the a community made up of nearly seventy munity of nuns runs a guesthouse, works in the come the centre of power of the counts of reason behind such severe magnificence. The monks. For a thousand years, they have been garden, and does handicraft activities. A visit to , and an active focus of culture and guides try to answer the question on a tour of the Abbey complex, the royal residence, and the following a guided life in which the clock is an the website www.larutadelcister.info/es will show thought. Its Romanesque cloister and its Goth- Pantheon. The experience can be completed with essential companion. They also do the most you the many possibilities of a route that allows ic church welcomed different communities from a meal at the hostel with organic produce, some diverse jobs, from handicraft to writing lyrics. you to see outstanding religious centres, but the Premonstratensian monks who followed the of which comes from the community garden, or by In addition to being a spiritual focal point, also to take part in numerous cultural, culinary, rules of St Augustine, to the Trapensians and trying the of the Abbey of Poblet. Montserrat is also a centre of culture which and adventure activities. the Marists, who have lived in the building since has a famous children’s choir and the oldest But monastery life is not exclusively Catholic. 1910. The archives of the Marists in Catalonia active music school in Europe. It also has a Since 1996, the Sakya Tashi Ling community of are preserved at this monastery, but the com- hostel to get away from the mundane city Buddhist monks has lived in the Garraf park plex also includes a house of spirituality and a noise for a few days. (Barcelona), an isolated, rocky place with little study house as well as a hostel, the restaurant The same warm welcome is offered in other vegetation. They live in the Plana Novella, a for- of which, El Claustre, is well worth a visit with For more Catalan Benedictine monasteries with active mer property which was the house of ‘indianos’ its made with local products as i information communities, where it is possible to live like a and which, in majestic and eclectic style, today well as its cutting-edge dishes. www.poblet.cat monk for a few days. Such is the case of the houses both the statues and figures that formed www.monestirdelesavellanes.com

36 / Discover Catalonia Heritage and Identity / 37 POPULAR CULTURE Touch the sky with Of eagles your hand A tower of people? With more and dragons than two centuries of history, the castellers are one of The most fabulous beasts rapidly appear every time the Catalans the best-known Catalan have something to celebrate. We’ll introduce them to you. traditions in the world. © lluís carro

t the top of the stairs of Tarragona ments of the festival of Santa Tecla, the In the image above, we are at the diada cas- Castle declared UNESCO Intangible Cultural World builders before Cathedral, an enormous golden patron saint of Tarragona. This is the so- tellera, and what we see is the pinya or the Heritage. It has its own vocabulary that all cas- tarragona eagle appears with its wings ex- called Baixada de l’Àliga (Descent of the base that has to support the castle that will be cathedral. tellers know. Even the youngest: the boy or girl, tended. It will soar down, dancing Eagle). raised. the enxaneta, who has to climb to the top of the A The tower will only be successful if everyone tower. Rising above the acotxador, they will raise the entire time. It is nighttime and it is sur- In Barcelona, an eagle dances during the rounded by thousands of people cheering Mercè festival. It comes into the square with works together. Many life lessons can be drawn their hand as a sign that the castle is built. Now at each of its movements. its wings open, a royal crown on its head, from this tradition born in the 18th century in the tower has to be deconstructed. Sometimes, It will follow a route around the highest three metres high with a majestic profile. The (Costa Daurada), which is particularly 16.000 strength fails and there is an accident which parts of the city, accompanied by beasts square is full, but silence falls as the solemn deep-rooted today in towns of castle-building castles causes it to collapse. Let there be no doubt: they a fire beast are raised and giants, as well as a mass of people dance takes place. tradition such as Terrassa, Vilafranca del will try again and again. in the form every year celebrating one of the most popular mo- of a dragon. Penedès and Tarragona, and which in 2010 was in Catalonia www.catalunya.com/que-fer/agenda Celebrating fire Dangerous basilisks, fierce bulls, horses, and a group of fire breathing dragons. Vil- lages and cities around Catalonia have minyons experience these and other figures which allude to It is possible to experience a colla castellera from the inside and to have the chance to discover how a real rehearsal works, and whoever wishes, can dress in the sash mediaeval mythology, tied to the religious and fer pinya, in other words, help to build the base without which it is impossible or portraying evil incarnate to raise a tower. The experience takes place at Casa Jacint Bosch in Terrassa, built which, represented by fire, takes the form in 1912, and is completed with a guided tour of the modernist building. The activity of popular devils, torch bearers, and gun- takes place on rehearsal days from April to November, and must be booked in advance. It is particularly designed for adults and is conducted in Catalan, Spanish, powder which are inseparable from the French, and English. concept of a Mediterranean festival. You have to experience it to understand the i For more information www.minyons.cat

© chapo authentic nature of Catalan culture.

38 / Discover Catalonia Heritage and Identity / 39 Celebrating A country fire of giants Sparks, fire, gunpowder... They were created to explain These are essential stories from the bible, elements in Mediterranean but they stopped in villages festivals, always present and cities and have become in Catalonia’s celebrations. increasingly popular.

©jordi pareto © GZ

The drums beat to announce that the doors of the devil dancing form, it is much newer than other mediaeval fire The music starts in the square and suddenly, In Catalonia form their dances at celebrations such as Santa the fire dance. there are some Averno are about to open. Yes, the gates of hell festivals, such as the Patum de Berga (Pirineus), everyone is sitting on the ground. The giants Eulàlia and particularly during the Mercè festi- are in Barcelona, and although it sounds strange, or pre-Christian winter traditions like the Fia- are about to begin their dance. They have their 4.000 val. During Barcelona’s local festival, they join the time when the devilish creatures who live Faia (Pirineus), when bonfires and torches are lit. own music and choreographies made espe- giants forces with other giants from all around there start climbing out is one of those most Sant Joan is another of the times of year cially for them. She wears a crown and rich me- Catalonia in a celebration in which they dance awaited by the people of Barcelona. The when fire is in the spotlight. The country is lit up diaeval dress, and holds a bouquet of flowers. and stroll through the streets of the city centre. has begun. The Mercè, Barcelona’s local festival, by a thousand and one bonfires. However, the He wears a Roman helmet and carries a giant The giants The girls and boys watch them in awe, and try and their is being celebrated. Devils dressed in hoods and most spectacular traditions take place in the mace over his shoulder... A girl looks at them to find out, by looking under the giants’ skirts, entourage. showing their horns dance to the sound of per- Pyrenees. These are the , also declared In- from ground where she is sitting and they seem Gegants d’Olot. whether there is a real person inside of them. cussion and release a rain of fire. Some specta- tangible World Heritage by UNESCO. The festi- as tall as a building, although in fact they are tors run to get out of the way, but others want to val begins when a trunk recently cut from a only a little over four metres high. These are the want to see this event up-close. Among the de- nearby mountain is set on fire in the middle of Giants of Olot. It is worth seeing them do the mons, large dragons and all kinds of hellish the night. Young people light long torches called candle dance to the magic light of the candles beasts, fire and sparks are tossed up over the falles, and start a frenetic zigzagging race down held by everyone in the crowd in September, crowd. Are they thrilled or petrified by the show? into the valley which is followed by excitement during the Tura Festival in Olot (Pirineus). These Not even they are sure how they feel. from the villages. When they arrive to the crowd’s giants are a couple of the thousands that exist applause, they use their torches to light the bon- all around Catalonia. They appeared in Europe ancient fire fire in the square that will light the village peo- in the fifteenth century as part of religious the- Although it is inspired by dances from almost 10 ple’s party throughout the night. atrical performances to explain the Bible to centuries ago, the modern day correfoc started 17 those unable to read. VILLAGES IN the in Barcelona at the end of the 1970s. This tradi- Catalan Pyrenees In Barcelona too, the city’s giants can be tion was soon made popular and is now a wide- celebrate the seen dancing, this time representing king Jau- tradition of spread tradition in the country. In its present the falles me I, and queen Violant of Hungary. They per- © Gemma miralda

40 / Discover Catalonia Heritage and Identity / 41 age-old Beyond percussion the One of the most popular With ancient clothes, sticks, veils, dances takes place as and even flower garlands around the dancers knock together their arms: this is how many of the sticks they hold in the folkloric dances are performed their hands. in Catalonia.

© oriol llauradó © eric medous

It is Saturday and it’s a beautiful day, but this isn’t other European countries, such as , the A group of boys and girls dressed in black per- until the party is over. This tradition dates back why the streets of Sant Cugat, a town very close 75 , , and France. These dances form a traditional Catalan which is still performed 500 to the 18th century, when young bachelors gave to Barcelona, are full of people. They have come have their own characteristics depending on the today in Òdena (Paisatges Barcelona). It is inter- the girls these sweets. GROUPS LIVING DANCES to celebrate the National Meeting of the Basto- making up the origin of the dancers. The strength with which esting how many others have been danced in are still Another group of dancers, this time from Olot Coordinator danced in ners [Stick Dancers] of Catalonia. There are more the sticks are beaten together and the wrist po- the square all morning, at a meeting of the so- (Pirineus), dress in sheepskin and dance with of Stick Dance Catalonia than a thousand of them, all of whom perform of Catalonia sition are said to vary by location. called “living dances”, in other words those still shepherds poles in their hands. In the end, they the dance that make the stick dancers beat their The base is always a group choreography. performed on some occasion somewhere in will form a structure with their ‘gayatas’ and will sticks together. Are they dancing or fighting? The dancers face each other and and carry two Catalonia. The peculiarity of the dance of cres- lift one of the dancers from the floor, who will shout Men, women, adolescents, and children are wooden sticks which are around 40 centimetres pelles is that the girls have a crespella, or a flow- “Xai Be”, referring to the sheep, an animal of great involved. The youngest are hardly strong enough long. They strike their sticks to the melody per- er garland, hanging from their arms while they importance to the shepherds of the area. The Xai to hit the sticks with the expected strength, but formed with traditional instruments like the gral- perform the choreography. Eating is forbidden Be dance has been performed since the 15th they do their best. This dance is also tradition in la, a high-pitched wind instrument, or the tabal, a century and celebrates the end of Lent. percussion instrument. Today there are hundreds of living dances like The Bastoners need to have admirable these in Catalonia. The variety of choreogra- strength, skills, and agility to perform the dance. phies is infinite. However, the best-known dance They wear long trousers, white shirts, a coloured in Catalonia is the sardana, which is danced in a sash and rope sandals. Some wear blue velvet circle with participants holding hands in a ges- trousers and others have bells on their ankles ture symbolising brotherhood. It comes from that bring joy to the rhythm of the percussion. northern of Catalonia, and is danced to the They dance and create their own rhythm at the sound of the traditional instruments played by a same time. This is all part of a dance that was group called a ‘’. It was considered symbol popular in Europe in the 15th century, but which, of identity at the end of the 19th century. Stick dance according to the Catalan folklorist Joan Amades, and a band might already have been danced in Catalonia as of gralles and tabals. early as the 12th century. © maximo lenzo © oriol llauradó

42 / Discover Catalonia Heritage and Identity / 43 © GZ

© infotur en m.a.s. g © ima

ART and CREATIVITY

From Romanesque paintings, and fashion accessories, to modernista architecture, Catalonia is a land of creativity. This is true for the arts, as well as literature and gastronomy, to give a few examples. Maybe it is the view of the sea, the pure mountain air, or the inland countryside, that makes Catalonia an inspiring place for both its local artists and for those who visit it. All options are possible. You have to come to Catalonia to express yourself creatively or to admire those who have already shared their talent with mankind. © josep garcia. GZ © marta perez. GZ

44 / Discover Catalonia Art and Creativity / 45 Painting and sculpture Rock, Romanesque and Gothic art From wall What do fertility rites have to do with images of saints? to canvas They are orks of art inspired in religious beliefs. What existed before and after Modernisme? Artistic creation has © Infotur had a significant impact since prehistoric times and continues Bare-breasted female figures dance in pairs PANTHOCRATOR, The same museum also displays work in the to produce marvels to share with the whole world. around a man. He is smaller than them, but his a 12th century style, as well as pieces signed by fresco in sex shows exaggerated dimensions. This fertility sant climent master painters like Jaume Huguet or sculptors ritual, was painted 6,500-5,000 BCE at Roca de taüll. like Pere Sanglada. The art from this period re- Below, paintings ire lit the first depiction of animals, ceramic remains in the ancient Greek and dels Moros, in El Cogul (Terres de Lleida). These on the roca flects the expansion of Catalonia with the con- drawn on a rock by a member of Roman colony of Empúries (Costa Brava). slender figures are painted in ochre and black, dels moros, quest of Valencia and Majorca. It was a time in El cogul. the clan. Without realising it, he had characteristic of the rock art of the Mediterra- which great temples were built, such as the Bar- just become one of the first artists In our sights nean Basin. In Catalonia, there are more exam- celona, Girona, Tarragona, Solsona, and Tortosa F ples in the Cova dels Vilars (Terres de Lleida) and cathedrals, which were decorated with paintings of these lands. This may have taken place in While Catalan painting and sculpture has Abrics de l’Ermita (Terres de l’Ebre) or in an- some of its own characteristics, it has his- in the Abrics de l’Ermita (Terres de l’Ebre). They and sculptures that can be admired in the Poblet other of the many caves and shelters in torically followed European trends. This are part of the Route of Rock Art and in 1998 60 Monastery (Costa Daurada), Pedralbes Monas- Catalonia. It is a good starting point for a JAQUELINE Catalan style is a blend of contributions from were declared UNESCO World Heritage. prehistoric tery, or the Saló del Tinell (Barcelona). journey through the history of art. The next WITH CROSSED different peoples who, like the Arabs, left sites HAVE BEEN HANDS, BY RECOGNISED stop on this journey might be the painted . their mark on Catalan culture. The Middle the arrival of the Romanesque by Unesco Ages brought moments of splendour to a Thousands of years later, these ritual scenes Catalonia that was creating its own identity, gave way to an elaborate concept of divinity. The which was especially evident in the Roman- context? The birth of the Catalan nation from the esque and Gothic periods. In the 19th cen- 9th and 10th centuries, the repopulation of the tury, the economic rebirth produced a very lands and the appearance of new temples, fertile moment of creation: Modernisme, an churches and monasteries in Romanesque style. enhanced version of the artistic tendency In around 1123, an anonymous artist made

that spread throughout Europe in the 19th the last touches to the majestic image of Christ eorama es g and 20th centuries. painted in the apse of the church of Sant Cli- l The history of includes from ment, in the Vall de Boí (Pirineus). Its majesty Dalí and Miró to Jaume Plensa. All have can be seen today, along with many other ex-

placed Catalonia in the sights of art lovers amples, in the Museu Nacional d’Art de rvicios editoria uís carro l

© L the world around. Catalunya (MNAC, www.museunacional.cat). © SE

46 / Discover Catalonia Art and Creativity / 47 Geniuses: Museums Picasso, Miró, and Dalí, Tàpies galleries Extravagant moustaches, Art spaces have become painted dreams, surreal new centres of pilgrimage. scenery: Welcome to Who wants to see a land of geniuses. a masterpiece?

© imagen m.a.s. © imagen m.a.s.

In , the place where the 19th- where his Theatre-Museum is today, not far The more than 300 museums of Catalonia are THE FUNDACIÓ MIRÓ, in century artists of Barcelona gathered, a young- from Cadaqués (Costa Brava). In 1949, he be- places of identity, cohesion, and progress. They barcelona, MEETING ‘CARMELA’ ster of 17 listens to them, spellbound. This gan building a house in this seaside village that bring together roots and current reality. They are building by the architect The Catalonia’s artistic attractions are comple- young man is Pablo Picasso. Born in Málaga, was just as eccentric as his artwork. Visiting it a good calling card for the country for the mil- josep mented by a multitude of private art foundations he arrived in 1895 to study art in this bohemian helps one to understand this genius who has lions of tourists who visit it. They provide unique lluís sert. and centres devoted to contemporary creation: Barcelona that left an indelible mark on him. gone down in history as the author of El gran experiences and share an appreciation for re- from the Fundació Sorigué in Lleida, which dalí THEATRE- The city had such an impact on him, that once MUSEUM, in masturbador, and who also dabbled in sculp- markable creations, traditions, and collections typically partners with the Sónar Festival, to the figueres, and Fundació Vila Casas, the Fundació Suñol, and he was a renowned painter, he wanted to cre- ture, writing, and even cinema. which provide visitors with knowledge and en- sculpture the Fundació Gaspar, in Barcelona. The Catalan ate the Picasso Museum in the city. on the facade It was Joan Miró who, in , put Dalí in joyment of the pieces they safeguard. capital is also full of galleries. It is worth strolling of the museu In Paris, in 1926, Picasso met Salvador Dalí. contact with the Surrealists. In Mont-roig del tàpies, in down calle de or through the The surrealist artist had been born in Figueres, barcelona. Camp (Costa Daurada) Miró was inspired to cre- Museums on the map Born district to discover them. On the stone ate La , and this town therefore has a Miró An hour away from Barcelona, Vic (Paisatges benches of the paseo del Born, pay attention to the sculptures of a renowned contemporary artist, Centre. His main works can be seen at the Miró Barcelona) hides a small marvel: the Episcopal Jaume Plensa. The sculptor also left the city a Foundation in Barcelona. They can also be seen Museum (www.museuepiscopalvic.com), which has monumental bust 4.5 metres high called Carmela, on the streets of the Catalan capital: from ce- outstanding samples of Romanesque sculpture by the Palau de la Música. ramic paving on the Rambla (El Pla de l’Os) to and painting, as well as works ranging from an- his sculpture (Woman and Bird). cient to the 18th century. Miró maintained a relationship of mutual ad- On the Costa Brava, the Girona Art Museum miration with Antoni Tàpies, an artist with his (museuart.com) maintains one of the best collec- own 20th century avant-garde style. His work tions of Romanesque and Gothic art in Catalo- 4.251 WORKS BY can be seen at the Fundació Antoni Tàpies (Bar- nia, with important pieces such as the portable Picasso are i For more celona), a modernista building which is topped altar from the monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes. preserved information in the PICASSO by a monumental work by Tàpies Núvol i cadira The Catalan Museum of Science and Tech- jaumeplensa.com MUSEUM in (Cloud and chair). nology, (mnactec.cat) has a mission to promote Barcelona © lluís carro

48 / Discover Catalonia Art and Creativity / 49 © imagen m.a.s. © GZ © robert ramos. gz © imagen m.a.s.

the knowledge of scientific culture and to pre- a head from Lleida, manages an important legacy of religious esque art in Europe, which includes paintings installation The Centre de Cultura Contemporànea de roman times of in the cccb serve, study, and show the evolution of scien- art, ranging from the Roman world to present day, and sculptures. Barcelona, ( CCCB, ) holds events, the national and a royal www.cccb.org tific and technical developments in Catalonia, archaeology covering Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and Also located on Montjuïc mountain, the Fun- galley in festivals, and exhibitions, and is a point of refer- museum and the maritime with special emphasis on their industrial appli- Baroque art. dació Joan Miró holds fundamental pieces by ence for new artistic trends. The complex that the facade of museum of cation and social importance. It has three cen- the museum Train lovers will find their ideal museum in the artist in a building designed by the architect barcelona. holds it is a 17th-century settlement house re- of lleida. tres: Terrassa, Esparreguera (Paisatges Barce- Vilanova i la Geltrú. The Museu del Ferrocarril de Josep Lluís Sert. In the Born district, the Museu furbished by Piñón and Viaplana. lona) and Castellar de n’Hug (Pirineus), and a Cataluña ( museudelferrocarril.org ) is right next to Picasso contains more than 4,000 original The Museu Marítim de Barcelona ( mmb.cat ) network of 28 museums and heritage sites, so the railway station. works that tell us about the formative years of is an institution devoted to sea culture located it is quite easy to visit one of its exhibitions. Vinseum ( vinseum.cat ), in Vilafranca del Penedès, the artist’s life. in the Gothic building of the Drassanes Reials, The National Archaeology Museum of Tarra- presents a collection related to viticulture, dis- The Museu d’Art Contemporani de Barce- on the Barcelona seafront. gona (mnat.cat), located on the Costa Daurada, playing visual art, ceramics, and crystal pieces, all lona ( MACBA, www.macba.cat ) holds exhibi- holds most of the Roman objects and furniture of which have wine as their central theme. This tions of modern art, from 1950 to today, in a found in Tarragona. This is a journey to antiquity museum has a multi-sensory module devoted es- building designed by Richard Meier. guided by the best specialists. It also runs the pecially to people with special needs. Early Christian Museum and Necropolis and In conclusion, the ‘Best Museum in Catalonia’, the Roman of Centcelles and els Munts. as the network of local museums ( museuslocals. In the town of Figueres, on the Costa Brava, a diba.cat ) is called, groups together museums from visitmuseum: the definitive app visit to the collection of the Museu del Joguet (Toy fifty-two municipalities of the Barcelona region Accessible from any device in its app or mobile web version, Visitmuseum allows users to enhance their visit with content in several languages, and enjoy Museum mjc.cat) is a trip to one’s own childhood and offers interesting information for visitors a good selection of the main pieces of each museum. The app provides a brief and that of past generations. through its website. presentation of the features of the museum, a tour around the main rooms, and The Cinema Museum ( museudelcinema.cat ) in a detailed view of the most outstanding objects. The app, which is available at Girona, is one of only a few museums in Europe to and without leaving Barcelona... the AppStore and on GooglePlay, offers links to learn more or share the experi- boast such a variety of pre-cinematographic and A long avenue and a staircase lead to the Mu- ence on the social networks. cinematographic material. seu Nacional d’Art de Catalunya (MNAC), in The Diocesan and Regional Museum of Lleida Montjuïc park. It has a spectacular view of the i For more information visitmuseum.gencat.cat ( museudelleida.cat ), in the capital of the Terres de city and one of the best collections of Roman-

50 / Discover Catalonia Art and Creativity / 51 Music A diverse soundtrack Batuta or synthesiser? There’s no need to choose, as Catalonia’s rich music scene satisfies the appetite of the most diverse and demanding ears. © Marc castellet

he is full one This image is an allegory for the varied tivals in which the best artists in the world MERCAT DE recognised today as a musical message of night in June of elegantly dressed soundtrack of a place that has given the take to the stage, such as the Girona Jazz MUSICA VIVA DE peace and fraternity. In his Villa-Museum we VIC programmes couples and others younger and world great geniuses, that delights in music, Festival, Jazz Terrassa, Voll-Damm Festival international can see his instruments, look at the rooms T more informal. They are all going and listens to it in all of its forms. The main Jazz Vic, and the JazzTardor, in Lleida. The artists. where he lived until his exile, and feel his ar- out and music is what gets them out of cities have great facilities, such as the , Vijazz takes place in Vilafranca del Penedès, tistic and humanistic legacy. The Pau Casals their homes. Some go to the Gran Teatre the Auditori, and the Palau de la Música in and gives attendees the chance to pair wine International Music Festival in el Vendrell re- del Liceu for an evening of opera and oth- Barcelona, the auditoriums in Girona and and cava with jazz notes in the background. members him every year. ers to the latest edition of the Sónar festi- sónar, Tarragona, and the Auditori Enric Granados The Mercat de Música Viva of Vic, one of There are many world-renowned Catalan val, where the most avant-garde rhythms international in Lleida. They put on both classical and the largest musical showcases, has taken composers. Among them are Isaac Albéniz advanced are played. music festival. contemporary music. place every year for the past three decades and Enric Granados, who were both pianists and serves as a great meeting place for pro- and Romantic composers. Their contempo- À LA CARTE FESTIVALS fessionals in the music industry. rary, Frederic Mompou, and avant-garde The activity is completed with fixed pro- authors like Xavier Montsalvatge are also grammes. Classical music festivals, as well pau casals, internationally celebrated, as is com- as festivals devoted to pop, rock, electronic, the sound of peace poser and pianist Albert Guin- or jazz spring up all around Catalonia partic- In 1971, an elderly but excited Pau ovart, who has written music for ularly in the summer months. Many of Casals addressed the United Na- operas, plays, and even films. these festivals are well-established, like tions. He had just received the the ArReus festival, which brings musical Medal of Peace in reward for his et groups from all over the world to the city of fight for justice and freedom. He ll Reus and offers festivalgoers a chance to went on to perform a popular

rc caste hear not only the music, but to see the cul- Catalan song, ‘El cant dels ocells’

© MA ture of other peoples. There are also jazz fes- (The song of the birds), which is still

52 / Discover Catalonia Art and Creativity / 53 Musical seasons Caruso, ‘La Callas’, and even Duke Ellington stood on these stages. In Catalonia, music plays all year round.

© Joan Puig. gz © imagen m.a.s.

The concert is about to begin, but there is still The teatre Yehudi Menuhin, Mstislav Rostropovich, Barba- time, reopened its doors after a renovation in the gran are not very classical, its main programme com- time to see the ‘linterna’ of L’Auditori (Barcelo- fortuny en ra Hendricks, Montserrat Caballé, Duke Elling- 2007, or the Teatro Fortuny in Reus, built in theatre del bines a repertoire of operas, little-known works, reus, costa liceo, in na), an open courtyard with glass walls that are daurada. ton, and Ella Fitzgerald. At 170 years old, the 1882 and which captivates visitors with its great barcelona. and contemporary compositions. The main hall 30 metres tall, decorated with drawings by the Gran Teatre del Liceu is probably one of the Baroque structural elegance. was rebuilt after a fire in 1994. Its Mirror Room, artist Pablo Palazuelo. L’Auditori plays music most beautiful and traditional opera houses in 1.100 however, remained miraculously intact and re- from various genres, from symphonic music to the world. REBORN FROM THE ASHES concerts and minds us how the epicentre of Barcelona bour- world music, through cycles exploring the rela- Promoters like Promoconcert organise sea- Opened in 1847, the Gran Teatre del Liceu is operas take geoisie life appeared a century ago. place every tionship between music and technology. sons of classical music and other genres at the Barcelona’s Opera house, which hosts the great year in the The Palau de la Música, the jewel of mod- Palau de la Música and the Liceu. Others like voices of world opera (from Caruso to Maria Cal- Liceu, the Palau de la Música ernista architecture and the work of the architect sculptures Ibercàmera promote classical music from the las). Although it sometimes hosts concerts that and L’Auditori Lluís Domènech i Montaner, declared a UNES- that represent stages of the Palau de la Música and L’Auditori muses CO World Heritage Site, is a temple for sym- strumming (Barcelona), as well as the Auditori de Girona. phonic and choral music, although it also hosts instruments The Auditori de Girona hosts both classical con- on the stage BARCELONA OVERTURE performances in other genres ranging from jazz of the Palau certs and pop and musical theatre along with the to ethnic music. Its stage has seen the likes of de la Música. Auditori Enric Granados in Lleida. Congratulations! Lovers of classical music can enjoy a three-for-one offer with a single click. Just connect to the Barcelona Obertura Classic and Lyric website, a site created by the three main musical institutions in Barcelona: MULTIPLE STYLES, MULTIPLE SPACES the Gran Teatre del Liceu, L’Auditori, and the Palau de la Música. They are deter- Musical performances in every genre from sym- mined to promote the hometown of Josep Carreras, Jaume Aragall, Montserrat phony to jazz are held throughout the country in Caballé, Victòria dels Àngels, and Jordi Savall, among others, as a great centre of prestigious multidisciplinary spaces like the Au- musical tourism. They offer a joint calendar that contains a selection of the most outstanding events of the season. ditori de Tarragona, Granollers, Sant Cugat, or the Kursaal de Manresa stage art space, found- i For more information www.barcelonaobertura.com ed in 1927, which after being closed for some en m.a.s. g Art and Creativity / 55 © ima Summer music festivals Not just one, but a thousand summer songs of various styles can be heard at a plethora of festivals.

© marc castellet © marc castellet

For three days in June, the Sónar festival in Bar- The festival went for independent and alternative sounds ternacional de Música de Cadaqués, which OPENING OF cruïlla in celona plays electronic and progressive musics and triumphed. Today, with headliners from the plays styles ranging from pop and rock to jazz; SÓNAR FESTIVAL barcelona. IN 2011. Festival of Ancient from around the world. Thousands of visitors an evening top of the pop and rock charts, this festival fills a the Festival de la Porta Ferrada of Sant Feliu de concert in Pyrenees Music (52% foreign) come every year. It started in 1994 giant complex in late May and early June on the Guíxols; or the Festival de Cap Roig, in cap roig. A high quality, top-notch programme is the best and today, Sónar is internationally recognised, outskirts of the city, in the Parc del Fòrum. More de , with top artists from the interna- way to describe the Festival de Música Antiga dels offering additional festivals in Reykjavík, Hong than 50,000 visitors a day have filled the com- tional pop, rock and jazz circuits. One of the most Pirineus (FeMAP). This festival is the result of the Kong and Stockholm. plex in recent years. Over half came from other outstanding classical music festivals is the Festi- work of several villages in the Catalan Pyrenees to Its success brought forth the appearance of countries. val Internacional de Música Costa Daurada – bring ancient music and the area’s rich architec- other musical performances. This is the case for Salou, with stages in , , tural heritage together. Special emphasis is placed on buildings from the Romanesque period. FeMAP the Barcelona Festival Primavera Sound, which Creixell, Roda de Berà, Cambrils and Salou. music in SEA and MOUNTAIN has drawn from the inheritance of the Joan The Barcelona calendar includes many other The ‘Schubertíada’ (Schubert festival) in Vi- Brudieu International Music Festival, which held events, such as the Cruïlla festival, an eclectic labertran (Girona), is another summer event. its last edition in the Seu d’Urgell in 2010. FeMAP Mas i Mas Festival, events that play electronic Though it is located far from the coast, the most promotes the ensembles of Catalonia and restores dance music, like the Barcelona Beach Festival curious music festival in Catalonia, the Festival and promotes the Catalan musical heritage by holding events in locations like or events dedicated to renowned artists, such as Gong, is held in the summer in the caves of Col- the cloisters of Santa the Festival de Pedralbes. lbató deep in the heart of Montserrat mountain. Maria d’Urgell. The festival circuit in Catalonia grows with At all of these attractions you can eat (either at each year and covers all styles: from the very a food stand or sitting at a high-scale restaurant), Mediterranean and ecological Vida Festival, in drink, or even shop. et Vilanova i la Geltrú (Costa Barcelona), to Canet ll 120.000 i For more Rock in (Costa Barcelona). The VISITORS information COME TO THE Costa Brava also hosts important events such as www.femap.cat THREE-DAY

© marc caste the Festival Castell de Perelada; the Festival In- SONAR FESTIVAL

56 / Discover Catalonia Art and Creativity / 57 NIGHTFALL EVENTS FOR EVERYONE To listen, see, dance, stroll... Nighttime in Catalonia allows visitors to partake in authentic activities that won’t leave anyone unsatisfied.

© alvaro monge. GZ © ferran sendra. gz

The Catalan night is varied and offers visitors a night of year. The theatrical performances do not stop lour, Castell de Montjuïc lit up, or the plaça del sala apolo in concert barcelona. variety of possibilities. You can enjoy a pleasant either, and nor do other stage arts like dancing. Rei. And the same thing happens in other Cata- and drink at beyond conversation on a terrace, have a cocktail, or go to la pedrera. When the sun goes down, everything is cast lan cities, which give light and colour to build- barcelona one of the many discotheques or dance halls. in a different light, so it is interesting to make ings and squares where bars and terraces invite Spaces such as sala Salamandra (el Prat de However, Catalonia has much more to offer be- night visits to symbolic buildings, as you can you to enjoy the evening. Llobregat) or Depósito Legal (l’Hospitalet del yond these more conventional options. During the with la Pedrera in Barcelona. Llobregat) offer lovers of alternative sounds good year there is always some holiday or local festival UNDERGROUND ATMOSPHERE opportunities. Outside the Catalan capital and its in which to participate, such as Patum of Berga, IN & OUT In Barcelona, in the plaça Reial, by the Rambla, area of influence, two locations stand out. To the which was declared Intangible Cultural Heritage of Catalonia hosts a wide variety of shows in di- we find two great places to watch live south, in Tarragona, Sala Zero (Costa Daurada) has a quality programme that includes the main Humanity by UNESCO, and the Aquelarre in Cer- verse, original spaces. These events can take music: the intimate Sidecar Factory Club, with a artists and bands of Catalonia. To the north, sala vera, both of which attract many curious visitors. place in markedly urban locations like the Apolo quality programme placing the accent on under- La Mirona, very near Girona (Costa Brava), also There are also popular festivals in districts such as or Razzmatazz in Barcelona where live alterna- ground, and Jamboree, a jazz club and wine cel- functions as a centre of attraction and a large the Sants or Gràcia Festivals in Barcelona. tive, pop, folk, and rock music can be heard, or lar founded in the sixties that brings in the greats. concert hall. What’s more, in the summer eve- street show Although many festivals are concentrated in at open-air venues surrounded by beautiful Its programme breathes life into the rich local jazz nings, an infinite number of stationary andpop-up of the TÀRREGA locations hold performances for the warmer months, the programme goes on all theatre fair. scenery. In Catalonia, there are simple beach scene and also explores the new trends of inter- even greater enjoyment huts where music is played to the sound of the national jazz. of the Mediterranean waves, or spectacular places such as Perelada Near the Sala Apolo, on the Paral·lel, the climate. Castle, which amplifies the quality of its musical modern Barts is the stage of top-class perfor- notes simply through its location. But if you wish mances and concerts of the International Jazz 5.000 LIVE CONCERTS to take a stroll in the city and be carried away by Festival or Bcn. A YEAR destiny, you may be surprised on the way to a ARE HELD AT BARCELONA’S terrace in Barcelona by buildings like the Torre MUSIC Glòries, with its chameleon spirit changing co- VENUES et ll

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GZ - . © GZ 62 / Discover Catalonia called Pyrenees the in village small a of rectory the of archives the into went of study the in cialised I Catalonia. books writteninorinspiredby renowned wizardfillthepagesof detectives, andevenaworld- Famous knights, well-known C in inspirg Liter Organyà book. parchment a covered dis he there, kept documents the examining this language. language. this in written document which known oldest the century, it made 12th the from Catalan in ten 10, oqi Mrt a itra spe historian a Miret, Joaquim 1904, n atalonia . I t was the religious religious the was t ature eiea Catalan mediaeval I t was a text writ text a was t O rganyà. While While rganyà. 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I A Welsh Ken Follett. in Origin and the Sagrada Familia Montserrat, la Pedrera locations like the monastery of lands in Gordon, who fell in love with the Catalan wine inspired several best-selling authors, such as Noah Years of Solitude. the myriad of characters in his novel One Hundred Garcia Márquez includes a Catalan sage among War in the first person. Still better known, the Briton told the story of the Civil must not forget lived and worked in Catalonia for many years. Roberto Bolaño, author of The Third Reich, who Pérez Galdós, author of Gerona, and Chilean writer authors of different backgrounds, such as The Catalan history and countryside have inspired Catalonia inspires The Winemaker ; orthe Homage to Catalonia And in the 21st century, it has

; Dan Brown, who explores Art andCreativity /63 , with which © orio Gabriel Benito l ll We auradó Cinema and theatre High Season and THE Grec Festival From Lumière in Barcelona The times changed and a famous to Broadway stage art festival was born. It has been around for half a century and is no The cinema came at the hand of babies at war and knights playing cards. longer the only one of its kind. And up to now has coexisted with the very rich theatre life.

© oriol llauradó

n 1896, the Lumière brothers project- tricks in the 1905 film The Electric Hotel. Victims of the years of dictatorship, in 1976, the the festival grec in ed Babies Quarrel and Une partie In the 1970s, the Barcelona School was Catalan actors and directors set up in an open- barcelona. The most modern d’écarté in the Napoleón photo- born, which like the English Free cinema or air theatre, the Teatro Grec. Here they organised circus in the world graphy studio in Barcelona. The spec- the French Nouvelle vague, wagered on the a self-managed summer season that combined I Clowns, acrobats, jugglers, and and a great tators were astounded. One of them was rebellion of the new languages. Its flame is music and theatre. Soon the City Hall would take show! Reus’s Festival Trapezi is an event lasting Fructuós Gelabert, the author of the first kindled by directors such as Isabel Coixet, over the initiative and put on the Grec Festival in several days with performances by circus Catalan film with a plot: Riña en un café Juan Antonio Bayona, Jaume Balagueró or Barcelona. Today the festival is nearly half a cen- companies from all around the world. Travelling (1897). In the early 20th century, Barcelona Jaume Collet-Serra from the United States. tury old, and has become a reference on the cal- shows can be seen in the outdoors in the small projection city squares and others in some of the theatres was already Spai n’s cinema capital thanks of Segundo endar of European festivals, with international de Chomón in Reus. The circus has modernised in recent to directors like Segundo de Chomón, with The Barcelona Broadway productions of theatre, dance, circus, and mu- decades and now perfectly blends in other stage who surprised audiences with his visual accompaniment. Despite the constant production of films, sic, while offering support and visibility to local arts. In the same way, Catalan dance has evolved Catalonia is a land of theatre. In the 17th companies. constantly since the nineteen eighties. Have you seen that artist dance blindfolded on a floor century it was a centre for European opera. In 1992, Temporada Alta (High Season) ap- covered in cactuses? It was Sol Picó. Now it is In the early 20th century, the Barcelona peared, a theatre event shared between the not surprising to see shows that mix dance and Paral·lel, with its theatres and cabarets, was stages of Girona and Salt (Costa Brava). circus, performance and urban dances, such as compared to Broadway of New York. With The health of theatre in Catalonia could not be the Brodas Bros company. this background, Catalan companies and di- better; It is constantly active, so much so that rectors travel the world. From Comediants many cities now hold theatre exhibitions. The and La Fura dels Baus, to opera and theatre Catalan people’s great love of theatre has guar- directors like Lluís Pasqual and Calixto anteed the success of established festivals such 50.000 ATTEND as FiraTàrrega, one of the most important inter- Bieito. Let’s not forget avant-garde compa- SHOWS IN nies like Agrupación Señor Serrano. Raise national stage art markets in Europe, and the GIRONA DURING THE HIGH Fira de titelles de Lleida, now approaching its the curtain! SEASON

© GZ 30th anniversary. EACH YEAR

64 / Discover Catalonia Art and Creativity / 65 Sitges Film A film-like Festival country Monsters, zombies, vampires, What do ‘Mr. Arkadin’ and ‘Pandora serial killers, and UFOs... and the Flying Dutchman’ have in Why has everyone common? Does anyone know where come to Sitges? ‘In Cold Blood’ was written? The answers, in Catalonia. © oriol llauradó © Javier garcía-díez (chopo)

Blood comes out of the split in his lips and he projection activities like its Sitges Zombie Walk, it is an op- In 1896, the Lumière brothers put a camera on a the light- ner. The Costa Brava was also used to film at the sitges house of leaves a trail on the tarmac. He stumbles forward portunity to see the fantastic and terror films that boat, and leaving the pier at the end of the Ram- scenes for the film Mr. Arkadin (1955), by Orson festival. sant sebastià, with stiff limbs. He is one of the dozens of zom- everyone is waiting for. It also includes flashbacks bla, they filmed the port of Barcelona from the on the costa Welles, or Suddenly Last Summer, a film from brava. bies which, in spectacular make up, take part in a and short films, and gives fans the best opportu- water. It was considered the first film made in 1959 by Joseph L. Mankiewicz, starring Elisa- parade of the living dead through the streets of nities to meet their idols. Here we have seen Catalonia, although the first cinema projection beth Taylor. the centre of Sitges (Costa Barcelona). ‘monsters’ of cinema ranging from Roger Corman would not come until a few months later. Since This town of white houses by the sea, which to George A. Romero, from David Cronenberg to then, many have used the Catalan capital as a Literary scenarios used to be one of the epicentres of Modernisme, MORE THAN Joe Dante, and from Jodie Foster to Sir Anthony stage. Pedro Almódovar did just that in his film Catalonia can also be explored with a book in is now a fearful sight to behold. At least in early 170 Hopkins or Vanessa Redgrave. Take your hat off All About My Mother, where the Palau de la your hand. Barcelona has been mentioned in October, when the Sitges Film Festival is held, to them, or pull of your head, if you prefer... Música and Montjuïc appear. Woody Allen sign of thousands of literary works. It is portrayed in The FILMS are the film by which started in 1968 and has become the most projected filmed here as well. The main characters of his Time Of The Doves by Mercè Rodoreda; towers the director every year at popular event on the Catalan cinema calendar. It film walk by the rationalist building of the Fun- woody allen. and the wonderful views from Vallvidrera are the Festival has an intentionally freakish about it and parallel de Sitges dació Joan Miró, the streets and cafes of old town Barcelona, and the traditional correfoc fes- tival with its fire and gunpowder. Less hellish but more terrifying was Rec, the RAIN OF FESTIVALS international success that Jaume Balagueró Z Short films with wine as the theme, films of women, those devoted to children... filmed in a building on theR ambla de Catalunya, There is a cinema festival for every spectator. This is what it seems, given the exten- © g one of Barcelona’s stately avenues. The films sive calendar of cinema festivals in Catalonia. They are not to be missed: the Festival de Cine de Girona, devoted to cartoons, videogames, documentaries and television with the most widely-recognised locations in the (September); the Animac de Lleida, a meeting with the best international cartoon Catalan countryside are those that were shot on films (February); the REC Festival Internacional de Cinema de Tarragona (December); the Costa Brava, whose abrupt geography and In-Edit, devoted to musical documentary cinema (between October and deep blue sea were discovered by the rest of the November) and L’Alternativa, focused on the more experimental forms world in the nineteen fifties. The Costa Brava of creation (November), both in Barcelona. was put on the map in 1951 with the film Pan- dora and the Flying Dutchman, with Ava Gard-

66 / Discover Catalonia cal city of Vic (Paisatges Barcelona). And on the Costa Brava, visitors have to see the place where the writer and journalist Josep Pla (1897-1981) lived in Palafrugell. Very nearby is Palamós, where the North American Truman Capote Catalunya locked himself in to write In Cold Blood between the end of the fifties and early seventies. Film Commission From spectacular landscapes to In the capital of the Seven Kingdoms intimate interiors. It is all here, in a Anyone strolling around Girona who has seen country from which you can travel to the sixth season of Game of Thrones will feel like they are Arya Stark or some other character the past or house a terrifying fiction. from this famous fantasy drama series. The show’s directors chose Girona to recreate © Catalunya film comission not one, but three different cities: King’s Land- ing, capital of the Seven Kingdoms; Braavos, © servicios editoriales georama the oldest and most powerful of the Free Cities; There is nearly a whole world in Catalonia, a The Catalunya Film Commission is the or- and Oldtown, where the Citadel, headquarters small territory just 33,000 square kilometres 4.000 ganisation responsible for simplifying the steps where the main character of the detective novels girona of the order of the Maesters, is located. Any in size. The fact is that on a trip around the PRODUCTIONS needed to get the appropriate filming licence. cathedral were filmed by Manuel Vázquez Montalbán lived. The fans of the show will be thrilled to recognise the Catalan urban and rural landscapes, an au- in Catalonia This commission also offers exhaustive informa- peaceful bourgeois Sarrià district is where the late 17th century staircase of , diovisual professional could recreate almost in 2016 alone tion on the rules and regulations that teams poet Josep Vicenç Foix resided. Joan Marsé the Romanesque Monastery of Sant Pere de any fiction: from a scene in a cosmopolitan working in Catalonia need to keep in mind. The lived in the Guinardó neighbourhood. The poet Galligants, or the steep staircase at Pujada de city to a film based on mediaeval times or the office works as an intermediary between the died in one of the five country Sant Domènec. You have to explore the city for early 20th century. On top of that, this area is teams in the pertinent authorities. homes in the Collserola natural park. The novel yourself and immerse yourself in the mediaeval sunny approximately three hundred days a A large transparent and futuristic industrial filming of Laura a la ciutat dels sants is set in inland Catalo- sites that television has made world-famous. year, making Catalonia the ideal set for loca- Summer warehouse, a splendid castle on a riverbank, a and nia and portrays the early 20th-century puritani- tions in films, television productions, and 1993 mysterious mountain landscape: These are just Barcelona, publicity films. winter night. some of the locations mentioned in the cata- logue of the Catalunya Film Commission. The same office provides information on the Catalan companies willing to offer their services to the GAME OF THRONES TOUR production teams: from stuntmen in special ef- The fans of have the chance to make a segway tour of some Game of Thrones fects to catering companies, in addition to com- of the filming locations from the sixth season of the famous HBO series. The com- pany Gironaway offers a tour of the streets of the old quarter on this two-wheeled munication agencies, distributors, and compa- vehicle so that you can see locations such as the walk of shame first-hand. You nies for the rental of all kinds of vehicles. will be able to imagine Queen Margaery coming down the stairs of the Great Sept of Baelor (Girona Cathedral), the place where Arya appears as a blind beggar, or the library in Oldtown, the centre of knowledge for the Grand Maesters of Weste- ros where Sam has gone to study.

i For more information www.gironaway.com

© GZ

68 / Discover Catalonia Art and Creativity / 69 DESIGN, FASHION AND craftS explosion of design Products in Catalonia Design was already there, but it spread with identity throughout the territory after entering a bar that would change everything. Today, we Turning on a lamp, using an ashtray, wearing a T-shirt: people around the world wear it to weddings or in the kitchen. are unwittingly in contact with Catalan products on a day-to-day basis.

© ferran sendra. gz

riginal handicrafts, books on the plied arts appeared in Catalonia. Today the Yes, it is a stool, but nobody had ever seen the world ting the company Lekué, a world benchmark in nuptial Catalan culture, and local food ADI-FAD (Association of Industrial Design- anything like it before. Called Frenesí, it was a kitchen silicone utensils. designer and wine: A family of tourists that ers-Promotion of Decorative Arts) is the di- creation of the Grup Transatlàntic. The design rosa clarà. Creativity in design has its counterpart in fash- Ohas just gone into the Palau Moja rect descendant of these associations, and boom had reached the bars and shops of Cat- ion. Catalonia has produced big-name fashion de- ‘The Catalan Heritage House’ (palaumoja. is an active agent in Catalan cultural life. alonia. These were different times, but in the signers like Antonio Miró, Josep Abril, Sita Murt, com) wants to buy many good gifts that land of Gaudí, Miró, and Tàpies, visual cre- and the highly regarded Custo Dalmau. For years, reflect the talent of those who have creat- Design in cuisine ation is tradition. Following in the footsteps of the designs of Txell Miras have been catching our ed them. With this legacy, Catalonia has given birth these design greats are designers like Javier attention. There are many more. They meet twice a This talent is evident in the area’s handi- to, and welcomed great designers in the Mariscal, Nani Marquina, Antoni Arola, and year at the 080 Barcelona Fashion, a catwalk for display crafts, design, and fashion. In the late 19th field of industrial or graphic design, such as more recently Martín Azúa and the Lagranja the promotion of Catalan fashion, including great of lekué the museu century, organisations and associations of André Ricard (Copenhaguen ashtray), Design studio, among others. Without forget- products. companies like Punto Blanco. del disseny professionals devoted to promoting ap- in barcelona. Miquel Milà with his TMC lamp, as well as Catalonia is also the epicentre of bridal fash- Oscar Tusquets, Javier Mariscal, Peret, En- ion. Pronovias was a small shop in 1922 and is ric Satué and Curro Claret. Catalan compa- now a world leader. And names like Rosa Clarà, nies are well aware of the importance of Teresa Helbig, and Ailanto also participate in Bar- design. One of these companies is Lekué, celona Bridal Week, one of the outstanding which has revolutionised the world’s kitch- events of bridal fashion. ens with its colourful silicone designs. Both fashion footwear and sport footwear are The importance of design in Catalonia is represented by firms like Mates, founded in 1947, addressed by the avant-garde Disseny or Munich, created in 1939, which sells in Europe es. GZ ll Hub Barcelona, a building devoted to pro- and also Japan. Catalan jewellery design is also moting this discipline, which houses the internationally recognised. The company Tous, Museu del Disseny. founded in the 1920s, sells its ‘bears’ (among

© joan cortade other things) in more than 40 countries. © GZ

70 / Discover Catalonia Art and Creativity / 71 The great Alto and market other markets Catalonia has a long Shopping in a market is a global commercial history: it is a experience. These combine music, melting pot of shops with gastronomy and trade. tempting markets. Who can resist?

© danny caminal. gz © carlos montanyes. gz

In Barcelona, strolling down the Passeig de Grà- a store on There are structured commercial hubs in oth- Poblenou, a district full of old factories, many the cia is like visiting a catalogue of luxury stores, passeig de er Catalan cities too. In Lleida, for example, turned into new projects, in the first weekend lost&found gràcia. market at the trades with everything from Prada to Stella McCartney shops are grouped together on eight streets in of each month houses the Palo Alto Market, estació de with history and Louis Vuitton (barcelonapaseodegracia. the city centre, which together can meet all of with 3,500 square metres to shop, eat and lis- frança. Reus, as well as a modernist city, also stands com). Equally full of all kinds of products, from your needs. The same strategy is followed by ten to music. out for its quality and proximity commercial fashion to kitchen utensils, is the Avinguda Di- the retailers in the centre of Reus, who are gath- The Slow Food group offers a market with activity. How many historic stores can a city agonal, which crosses the top of the Passeig de AROUND ered on the so-called Eix Comercial Prim-Suny- quality seasonal products respectful of the have? The answer is given on guided tours of Gràcia. And near the sea, below Plaça de Cata- er, which is formed by two long avenues full of environment. On Saturdays, they open in the Reus’s centenary trades, which preserve historic lunya, in the old quarter and Born district, there 200 interesting stores and just a ten-minute walk Parc de les Tres Xemeneies in Barcelona, and on items as well as many memories and anecdotes. STORES, This is a trip in time and to the interior of these are small charming shops run by independent from very interesting modernista buildings. The the first Saturday of each month in the Retiro many stores, where the owners themselves will explain designers, and stores like Artesania Catalana on luxury, ARE town of is another commercial bench- gardens in Sitges. their experiences, and also those of the earlier LOCATED ON Banys Nous street, a showcase of artisanal mark, particularly in the textile sector. In Barcelona, some proposals focus on the the passeig generations behind the counter. The experience handicrafts. de Gràcia sale and exchange of second-hand products. In includes a tasting of vermouth and hazelnuts from the Raval district, once a month there is the Flea Reus. Available all year, except for the summer, with Market. And on the Moll de la Fusta and at Es- bookings. The tour is offered tació de França, Lost&Found. in Catalan, Spanish and English. everything in the same place On the Costa Brava, an ancient country house Catalonia also has large stores and shopping centres, which are occasionally in August is the venue of White Summer, a mar- located in large cities, as well as in areas close to urban centres. Located just a few kilometres from the city of Barcelona and providing their own bus service, ket festival. outlets have appeared like La Roca Village and Viladecans The Style Outlets, Especially successful is the experience of REC with stores of leading brands with sales all year round, providing a different in Igualada (Paisatges Barcelona), which twice a shopping experience. year for four days transforms an old industrial dis- trict into a series of ephemeral stores. It has a gast- 6.000 i For more ronomic offer, as well as live music and DJs. visitors a day information are received i For more information www.larocavillage.com www.latevaruta.com by the Palo Alto Market

72 / Discover Catalonia Art and Creativity / 73 Creative tourism: DO IT YOURSELF Learn the secrets of wine, make pottery, cook like a local chef and even build human towers! The best way to get to know a place is to experience it.

© marc castellet © CPTAP

In his studio in Vulpellac, next to la Bisbal a ceramic DIRECT EXPERIENCE the Barcelona Gothic quarter, a window shows treading grapes to d’Empordà (Costa Brava), the master crafts- workshop. This is just one example of what is known as cre- a kitchen where people work in their still pristine get must. VISIT EMPORDANET man spins his wheel. This time some tourists ative tourism, a trend that aims to get visitors in- white aprons. Is it a restaurant kitchen? No. Time seems to stand still halfway between the city have come to visit, including foreigners. They volved in the territory and, rather than being a There isn’t a chef in sight, which means it’s ob- of Girona and the coastal towns of the Costa Brava. are seeking to understand and explore mere spectator, become immersed in the culture. viously not a restaurant kitchen. These people This is the Empordà in all of its glory, where visitors the lands they are visiting, and are particu- After the tangible heritage of an area has are preparing a typically Catalan recipe. They can come to partake in traditional, artisanal, and larly eager to make direct contact with an in- been discovered, that is, its monuments and might even have gone with a guide to buy the creative activities, like visiting the 11th-century Can Solivera olive grove and country home, and tasting habitant of the area. Someone who can tell scenery, its intangible heritage can be too. ingredients at the market. They will return home their olive oil, or participating in a pottery workshop them how a product is made. Like this jug And this trend has certainly arrived in Catalo- knowing how to make a trinxat of cabbage and in Figueras i Fills, which specialises in large pots. taking shape in the potter’s hands. nia. On the ground floors of a building hidden in potato, or maybe a stew, two of the typical dish- Visitors can also tour Recuits Nuri to see the es of the local cuisine (bcnkitchen.com). production of cloth recuit and sample this soft and In the north of Catalonia, in the Empordà, fresh cheese which is a traditional food from the Empordà region and which is an ingredient in many visitors take part in the activities of the Vívid paint nites at the palau moja recipes that pair well with the fantastic wines of the festival. This takes place in April and invites par- Empordà Denomination of Origin. An evening actively combining creativity and good conversation. Have a glass of ticipants to partake in a wine experience. They wine and create in painting. You will return home with a product from your hands, will tell them about the territory and the nature which is sure to surprise you. Meet your friends and enjoy this fantastic event on the last Thursday of each month. You don’t have to be an artist to be creative, it doesn’t of the wines, take them to the vineyards, and matter whether you have ever held a brush: to do this activity you don’t need any explain how the wines are made. Then they can experience, just a desire to have a good time. There must be a reason why the social try the wines and learn to distinguish each one’s networks are flooded with photos of the Paint Nites. Accessible activity, available all delicate notes. year in Catalan and Spanish. i For more information i For more information www.palaumoja.com visitempordanet.cat

74 / Discover Catalonia Art and Creativity / 75 C ingredients: excellent fish and shellfish, and fish excellent ingredients: results in the availability of a wide variety of try tobesavoured. and from east to west, Catalonia is a coun - with nature, and more. interacting countryside, and villages the discovering sea, the in diving means nia ditions and customs. Experiencing Catalo- To exploreitsgeographyistodiscoveraworldofflavours. is alsothecradleofmostsophisticatedandinnovativecuisines. The placewherethesimpleanddelicioustomato-rubbedbreadwasborn be s A c G e iest o Ctlnas landscapes Catalonia’s of diversity The astr n ejyn te rdcs f a country brings us closer to its tra- of products the enjoying and culture. and history, lands, its by influenced is cuisine atalan ountry t onomy andenl From north to south av T rying oured BREAD. TOMATO-R for making ingredients UBBED

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© Oriol Llauradó de l’ebre. on Rice paddies RA also chef, and herson, resta sant P chef of r Carme uscalleda, ÜL balam. the del urant a u the ta , of the local product and innovation. Catalan cuisine has taken in recent decades. course the of sign good a stars, Michelin 65 of Catalan gastronomy. creative and traditional, authentic, an promote seasonal and local products. eating of philosophythe promote to aims food’, find a remedy for the problems derived from ‘fast T F O he ifty-five restaurants in Catalonia have a total a have Catalonia ifty-five in restaurants ver 45 gastronomic hotels in Catalonia also Catalonia in hotelsgastronomic 45 ver Slow Food Slow group, which was founded to foundedwas group, which © Al bert be bert l tran. GZ tran. TAKING PART. BARCELONA BEER FESTIVAL This festival has more than 350 draught beers to Much more than try. There are both local craft brewers and a large selection of international beers. Special mention JUST eating! is made of other beer festivals around the world. The last edition of this festival in March 2017 Harvest the grapes, pick , was an overwhelming success. For more infor- or even go fishing with the fishermen. mation www.barcelonabeerfestival.com These are some ways to actively WELCOME TO MY FARM learn about Catalan cuisine. Welcome to the countryside! This is what is pro- claimed by farmers and stock breeders around Catalonia, who open their doors for a few days every June to visitors who want to discover the secrets of life in the country, and meet those These are just some of the activities you can do who ensure that our fridges are stocked with in order to discover Catalan cuisine in a way that tasty products. is much more active than simply dining at a good For more information benvingutsapages.cat restaurant or visiting a market. Seek adventure. © lluís català © gemma miralda FISHING TOURISM HAVE FUN COOKING Fish tastes better if you catch it yourself. In If you are in Barcelona, take a course with bcnKitch- OLIVE OIL EXPERIENCE A FOOD AND WINE TASTING TOUR WINE TASTING Cambrils, different packages are offered, allow- en, where you will learn to cook in good company This tour will show you the different phases of The Montblanc Tourist Office organises tours of IN el penedès. ing you to feel the sensations that make fishing while enjoying a glass of wine. You will learn the production for Ventalló olive oil, in the Alt Em- this mediaeval town and the route takes us to such a tough but exciting profession. During this secrets of shellfish , visit a market to learn to pordà. You can also try two extra virgin olive oils establishments to try the typical local products activity, you will experience what it’s like to go shop better, enjoy the prepared dishes, and take and choose between a menu of km 0 products of the region’s gastronomy, accompanied by a out to sea with a crew, and will have a first-hand home recipes to make them whenever you want. or dine at the La Bassa restaurant. DO Conca de Barberà wine tasting. experience fishing on the high seas. For more information www.bcnkitchen.com For more information www.oliventallo.com For more information www.montblancmedieval.cat For more information www.pescaturismecambrils.com

TOMATO-RUBBED BREAD gastronomic getaways TRYING WINES AND This is a traditional Catalan dish that the world Catalonia is a small country, but all of its land- MAKING FRIENDS associates with Catalan gastronomy. It is eaten scapes conceal flavours, and all of its recipes A degustation dinner in the historic all the time, is cheap and easy to make. You just hold traditions. Get away from Barcelona for a centre of Barcelona and a group need rustic bread, ripe tomatoes, extra virgin olive few hours with Aborígens, and enjoy a trip to the Catalan DO wine tasting. The som- oil, and salt. Rub the tomato on a slice of bread, roots of Catalan. All food artisans work honestly, melier of the Hotel Barcelona Cate- sprinkle the bread with a touch of salt and a A COOKING and stay faithful to a rural tradition that refuses dral runs this activity that encourages CLASS IS A dash of olive oil. By itself or with toppings, it’s to disappear. dialogue and interaction. MEMORABLE delicious! EXPERIENCE. For more information www.aborigensbarcelona.com For more information www.barcelonacatedral.com

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PAISATGES BARCELONA Sant Fruitós de GASTRONOMIC MÓN SANT BENET- MARKETS FUNDACIÓ ALÍCIA www.alicia.cat Fresh products from the markets are a MUSEUMS Product: catalan cuisine. sign of the gastronomic wealth of Catalonia. A universe for discovering the products, the Cardona PARC CULTURAL DE LA A meeting place to stroll, shop, and chat. preparations, and the history of Catalan cuisine. MUNTANYA DE LA SAL www.cardonaturisme.cat Product: salt. BARCELONA COSTA DAURADA BOQUERIA MARKET Barcelona Riudecanyes PIRINEUS From Mondays to Saturdays COSTA DAURADA © nano cañas CENTRE D’INTERPRETACIÓ Located on the Rambla, this THE BOQUERIA MARKET, Tuixent ON THE RAMBLA. www.museuxocolata.cat DELS FRUITS DEL PAISATGE was the first municipal market Tarragona Product: chocolate. www.cooperativariudecanyes.com MUSEU DE LES TREMENTINAIRES (1840). With thousands of visitors BONAVISTA MARKET Products: hazelnuts and olives. each year, it is one of the most www.trementinaires.org Sundays famous markets in the world, Products: traditional remedies. The largest market in the region. COSTA BARCELONA Vandellòs where you can try platillos. MERCAT D’OLOT CENTRE D’INTERPRETACIÓ DE It is located in the district that Sant Sadurní d’Anoia gives it its name and serves Mondays L’OLI DE LA VALL DE LLORS TERRES DE L’EBRE More than 170 stands CIC FASSINA CENTRE www.hospitalet-valldellors.cat SANTA CATERINA MARKET fresh food and all kinds El Perelló in the town centre. D’INTERPRETACIÓ DEL CAVA Product: oil. From Mondays to Saturdays of products. www.turismesantsadurni.com CENTRE D’INTERPRETACIÓ This market reopened in 2005 after Product: cava. APÍCOLA MÚRIA Calafell being renovated by the architects TERRES DE L’EBRE LA CONFRARIA. CENTRE www.melmuria.com PAISATGES BARCELONA Vilafranca del Penedès Product: honey. Enric Miralles and Benedetta D’INTERPRETACIÓ DEL Tagliabue. Its spectacular VINSEUM VIC MARKET TORTOSA MARKET www.vinseum.cat PESCADOR colourful roof is a sign of www.turisme.calafell.cat Tuesdays and Saturdays From Mondays to Saturdays Product: wine. what we will find inside. Product: seafood. MUSEU DE L’ARRÒS This is one of the prettiest markets The building was constructed MOLÍ DE RAFELET in Catalonia. Since the 11th century by Joan Torras, the ‘Catalan COSTA BRAVA Reus www.moliderafelet.com COSTA BARCELONA it has maintained its location in the Eiffel’, by the Ebre river. EL MUSEU DEL VERMUT Product: rice. Vilanova i la Geltrú great market square. With stands L’Escala with products of the land, flowers, www.museudelvermut.com CENTRAL MARKET Sant Carles de la Ràpita MUSEU DE L’ANXOVA Product: vermouth. craftwork, and poultry. I DE LA SAL TERRES DE LLEIDA From Mondays to Saturdays FISH AUCTION www.visitlescala.com Agramunt A good place to buy high quality From Mondays to Fridays. Product: anchovy. MUSEU DEL TORRÓ fish and shellfish. First thing in the afternoon, I LA XOCOLATA PIRINEUS we can watch the fish auction Torrent www.vicens.com PUIGCERDÀ MARKET from an overlooking gallery. MUSEU DE LA CONFITURA Product: nougat. COSTA BRAVA Sundays www.museuconfitura.com TORROELLA Product: jam. Local products and a meeting DE MONTGRÍ MARKET place for the inhabitants TERRES DE LLEIDA Palamós © chopo Mondays of La . BALAGUER MARKET museu de This market has a large variety Saturdays MUSEU DE LA PESCA la pesca in www.museudelapesca.org palamós, of stands, especially This market has more than 130 Product: fish. costa brava. in the summer months. stalls and 800 years of history.

80 / Discover Catalonia Art and Creativity / 81 © infotur EXPERIENCE CATALONIA

82 / Experience Catalonia Experience Catalonia / 83 VISIT A CHARMING VILLAGE 4 Lose yourself on a stroll through a charm- ing village in the mountains or near the sea. Discover magical places that can only be seen on foot.

DISCOVER BRILLIANCE 5 Embrace the spirit of Gaudí, Dalí, Guin- ovart, Tàpies, or Miró by following their steps through the territory or visit Roman- esque churches that have been declared World Heritage Sites.

TEN WAYS TO EXPERIENCE THE Let your creativity fly 6 Get your hands dirty by participating in a creative activity that allows you to experi- culture of ence all that the local towns have to offer. EXPERIENCE THE DAY 7 OF SANT JORDI The festival of Sant Jordi invites every- CATALONIA one to go out into the street to stroll and enjoy the atmosphere. Books and roses Touch the sky with your hand, experience a rain of fire, listen to the are given and received on this day. soundtrack of modernity... These are some ways to discover Catalonia. © lluís gene. gz go to A FESTIVAL 8 Listen to music as it fills the air at a sum- atalonia provides visitors with limit- These sites combine elements of the Ro- Make a HUMAN TOWER. castle display mer festival. Catalonia hosts various mu- 1 of the ‘colla’ less possibilities that cater to all five manesque, Gothic, Renaissance, and Ba- Watching the colles castelleres build Els xiquets sical programmes with star performers. senses. The diversity and wealth of roque styles, scenes of great beauty, tradi- their human towers is quite a spectacle. de valls. Catalonia allows you to try curds tional festivals that are a clear sign of The boldest visitors can even take part. TRY WINES AND CAVAS C 9 Make a toast at a modernist cooperative and honey recently made in the mountains, identity and a gastronomy that captivates spend a day in a Cistercian monastery, take diners with its local products and that it dance a sardana in the vineyards, or at the table of a good part in a festival of fire and fireworks in a pairs perfectly with wines and cavas of 2 A symbol of brotherhood, this dance re- restaurant. Catalonia is a country of great street parade, or to discover the works of great tradition. quires participants to hold hands and wines, with 12 Denominations of Origin. world-famous artists like Gaudi, Dali, Jujol, At http://experience.catalunya.com, you will dance in a circle. Shall we dance? and Guinovart. Visiting their creations will find a thousand experiences to add to the ‘pantomatear’ take you back to another time. ten we propose here. Participate in a CORREFOC 10 Cheese and cured meats taste even bet- Catalonia is home to various buildings 3 Gunpowder is essential in ‘fire parades’, on a slice of bread with tomato, oil, and that are UNESCO World Heritage Sites. a rain of sparks for full enjoyment. salt. This combination is truly delicious.

84 / Experience Catalonia Experience Catalonia / 85 accessible culture reach everyone Catalonia is one of the most accessible tourist destinations in Europe, with top-level cultural resources being consistently improved every day.

© infotur © Gemma miralda

ulture plays a key role in tourism. description service. All of the seats have a are offered information on accessible sup- accessibility tural and natural resources, on its history, in the sagrada In Catalonia, culture has become screen in front of them so that concertgo- port, sign language for the hearing im- familia and traditions, interesting facts, etc. through the main attraction for many visi- ers may follow the storyline using subtitles paired, and is one of the first websites information Audio-Sign–Guides containing audio de- in braille tors. Catalonia therefore works to in Catalan, Spanish, and English. On the signed in three sign languages: Catalan at barcelona scription for people with visual impair- Cmake Cultural Tourism Accessible to one stage, there is a large LED screen on which Sign Language (LSC), Spanish Sign Lan- maritime ments in Catalan, Spanish, and English, museum. and all. We are more and more aware that the subtitles are projected. guage (LSE), and International Sign Lan- sign language interpretation in Catalan, architectural and communicative barriers At the Teatre Nacional de Catalunya some guage (SIS). The different stages of the Spanish, and International Sign Languag- have to be eliminated so that everyone can performances are programmed with audio Way of St James can also be downloaded es and subtitles in Catalan, Spanish, and enjoy quality holidays and free time. descriptions for people with visual impair- to give information to all people on its cul- English. ments. A list of performances with this fea- ACCESSIBLE WORLD HERITAGE SITES ture is updated each season on the web- A large number of the locations classified site www.tnc.cat/ca/accessibilitat. as World Heritage Sites in Catalonia have the work of antoni gaudí made a concerted effort to become more THE WAY OF SAINT JAMES: La Pedrera offers visitors a programme called La Pedrera Accesible, which has introduced sensorial resources in the museum itself and in the programme of accessible to people with disabilities or CATALONIA FOR ALL cultural activities. Amongst other things, guided tours are offered in sign lan- people who have impaired mobility. This This is a project which has been developed guage, with audioguide transcription, induction loops for hearing aids, and tactile includes the buildings of the modernista by the Catalan Tourist Board and has be- maps in high relief and Braille in the visitable areas of the floor of La Pedrera and architect Antoni Gaudí. come an international standard for the models of the building. The visit is also accessible for wheelchair users. successful implementation of accessibility enjoy the Opera and theatre solutions for people on cultural routes, in- At the Gran Teatre del Liceu, some opera cluding those with reduced mobility. At i For more information lapedrera.com/es/un-espacio-accesible performances are provided with an audio www.caminodesantiagoparatodos.com, all users

86 / Experience Catalonia Experience Catalonia / 87 © GZ © GZ With your family Unlimited adventures Who has a better time, adults or children? It’s impossible to know. On the beach, in the city or in the forest, they can all go on an endless number of adventures.

Parc Samà s it a giant mushroom? That’s what it At Mon Natura Pirineus (Pirineus), lo- romantic garden looks like, and the children are fasci- cated at an altitude of 1,393 metres, you Enjoy an ideal outing for the whole family. Visit nated by the view that appears before can see foxes and lynxes, discover the the historic and romantic Parc Samà garden them while strolling in the Poblet For- bears’ habitat, watch vultures flying over in Cambrils and travel back in history to the time of the indianos, the Catalans who made Iest (Costa Daurada). In fact, mushrooms our heads, or enjoy the galaxy from the as- their fortune in Cuba, and learn about their trips are painted on different trees. When you tronomical observatory. there and back, which are addressed in a single look at the trees from a certain angle, you There are many family-friendly ways to space in which the cultures of the old and new can see them. Walking through this forest visit, such as relaxing on the beach in the worlds combine. Visiting Parc Samà with your family is a game in which you stroll, play, eat an is one way, but by no means the only way, sun or playing water sports, exploring na- afternoon snack, run, and learn in a labyrinth of to explore natural scenery and the main ture in the mountains, visiting an amuse- animals, trees, water, bridges, and towers with a cultural attractions in Catalonia with your ment park like Port Aventura, or participat- treasure map in your hand. The activity is offered children. Further to the north, in the area of ing in cultural experiences. Consider throughout the year and is available in Catalan, Spanish, English, French, and (Costa Brava), adven- visiting the mines in Cercs or Cardona or Russian. ture awaits in the water. You can kayak immerse yourselves in the marine life of the down part of the Fluvià river to watch the L’Aquàrium of Barcelona. There is always a birds in the area. The marine vi-llage of Es- a workshop cultural activity nearby to complete the ex- at the museu tartit (Costa Brava) for a few days, looks to de xocolata, perience. In Catalonia, we have 25 certified the Illes Medes, waiting for the arrival of pirates and family tourism destinations covering the PRIVATEERS at i For more pirates and corsairs. The vi-llage trans- the Illes most diverse and beautiful landscapes. information forms, there are shows in the street and Medes, and a It is obvious that Catalonia is particularly stroll around parquesama.com lots of activities for families. cap de creus. well prepared for family experiences.

88 / Experience Catalonia © oriol clavera Experience Catalonia / 89 © agència catalana del patrimoni cultural

early age. Among other activities, they suggest meetings with Mr Stone at differ- ent monuments of the Catalan geogra- phy. Mr. Stone travels around the world in search of mysterious and extraordinary places, accompanied by his notebook and suitcase. You can meet with him at the Monastery of Sant Pere de Rodes or © toni vilches. GZ © Francesc casals. gz Santes Creus or wherever his investiga- tions take him. In addition to the activities already men- theatralised If the trencadís technique that Antoni animal “hunters” will have to use their FAMILY ACTIVITY Catalonia History Museum offers activi- tioned, the website catalunya.com offers a tours for Gaudí used in many of his works seems memory to locate the beasts represented AT THE MHCAT ties like ‘Pulling on the Thread of families in the IN , wide range of activities that can be filtered archaeology fascinating to you, go to Esplugues de in the museum’s works of art. More infor- COSTA BRAVA. History’(mhcat.cat/activitats2). And the Ar- by territory, theme, and other criteria. You MUSEUM OF Llobregat to watch the technique being mation at museudelleida.cat/es. chaeology Museum of Empúries (Costa EMPÚRIES THE can even book activities on the page itself. Catalonia implemented first-hand. This is an activity Brava), organises saturnian parties to cele- For example, you can discover the town history provided by the La Rajoleta Ceramic Mu- brate winter, among other events. (mac.cat/ museum. Discover the cultural of Valls, on the Costa Daurada, the cradle seum (museus.esplugues.cat) to teach the heritage of Catalonia Seus/Empuries/Activitats/). of the human towers and birthplace of the general public about this special decora- The Catalan Agency of Cultural Heritage famous photographer Francesc Català tive discipline. works specifically on family visits in order Roca. You can do this in a way the whole A safari in a museum? This is exactly to make the message accessible to family will enjoy by playing a game pro- the activity proposed by the Museum of young children so that they can appreci- vided by aurigasc.com. Lleida. A game for all ages, in which the ate Catalonia’s cultural treasures from an

gaudí exhibition centre món sant benet Located in the Pia Almoina, a mediaeval building adjoining the Roman wall and An invitation for a journey to the past, on which to discover the history next to , the Gaudí Exhibition Centre is a museum dedicated to of the monastery of Sant Benet del Bages. By means of a museum assembly the modernista architect that cannot be missed by art lovers if they want to truly visitors will go into the life of the monastery, where the voices, the sounds understand his work. There is a virtual reality activity in which the architect himself of the daily activity and the images of the past appear between the thousand-year- ‘comes back to life’ and interacts with visitors. The Centre also has a collection of old walls and turn this visit into a singular experience. This is a tour pieces and models presented with holograms, audiovisual installations, and special through the most emblematic spaces of the monastery, such as the cells of the scenographies. Montserrat gallery. Activity accessible for the general public, offered all year round The museum organises guided tours for groups on request. in Catalan, Spanish, French, and English.

i For more information gaudiexhibitioncenter.com i For more information www.monstbenet.com

90 / Experience Catalonia Experience Catalonia / 91 Touring towns and villages one country, a thousand possibilities Boisterous and modern, tranquil and traditional: There is a side for every visitor, but it’s best to enjoy them all. © ajuntament de tortosa

abyrinthine streets with stone sustainability, and modern infrastructures, houses to the right and left, a cas- but continue to practice centuries-old tra- tle that seems taken from a fai- ditions in the form of vibrant popular festi- L rytale, a 13th century church, ivy vals. This occurs in Barcelona, but also in The inheritance of history climbing over walls and windows: Yes, the cities like Tarragona, Lleida, and Girona, streets of Peratallada (Costa Brava) speak where history and future are felt at the Romans, Muslims, Jews... Visiting the cities with most character of a medieval Catalonia steeped in tradi- same time. of Catalonia allows its multicultural history to be reviewed. tion. Are we really only a little over 100 kilo- Bustling cities contrast with peaceful metres from the Torre Glòries, the icon of villages located a few kilometres away the busy Barcelona of the 21st century? where cava is made and the wine is left to The scenery, the architecture, the local cuisine: A tortosa, on houses overlooking the Onyar River is a history the of route through the cities and villages of Catalonia spanning centuries. This history is evident in the The essence of Catalonia is found in the rest, where olives are picked to produce the river ebre. little villages that preserve the legacy of the culinary treasure of oil, and where pot- will show us that there are no boring locations buildings of its 12th century Jewish quarter that thousands of years of rural life as well as tery is produced with traditional tech- here. However, some places stand above the rest. is the best preserved in Europe. the most modern cities. These are cities niques. These are the two sides of Catalo- This is the case of Barcelona. As the capital of Inland in Lleida, the city’s Arab roots are visi- with an incredibly rich cultural life and pro- nia, a diverse place that is constantly Catalonia, it accumulates attractions. Not only is ble. One of the buildings that defines the city is vide the same comforts and services that surprising its visitors. it an open and cosmopolitan city, but it also has the castle of La Suda, which was historically the can be found in any great metropolis to- a large network of museums and its streets are a ancient Muslim Larida until the 12th century. The day. These cities are connected to the rest catalogue of open-air architecture. Girona too, is character of Tarragona, on the Costa Daurada, of the world and wager on technology, a modern city, although behind its colourful has different origins. Roman Tarraco, which was

92 / Experience Catalonia Experience Catalonia / 93 Enjoying nature BEYOND THE © fira modernista de terrassa COUNTRYSIDE an urban model for the Empire, is still visible. Its MODERNISTA Terrassa is a living story of the Industrial Rev- Thick forests, high mountain lakes, towering peaks, sub-aquatic scenery... FESTIVAL IN well preserved ruins receive more than 700,000 olution in Catalonia, which can be seen in its TERRASSA. What artistic and architectural gems stand out in the countryside? visits a year. modernista heritage. Visitors to the city in May Other places have had an outstanding impact will find the Modernista Fair. In March and April, on the , which has marked visitors enjoy the internationally renowned Ter- their character. Reus, the city where Gaudí was rasa Jazz Festival. he seasons of the year look differ- discovering the Delta de l’Ebre, UNESCO born, is synonymous with trade. During the 18th ent on the Delta de l’Ebre. Fields Biosphere Reserve. Beside the La Tanca- and 19th centuries, it was the second most im- full of water act as a mirror to ref- da lagoon, that favoured by the flamingos, portant city in Catalonia. T lect the flight of the birds. Howev- is Món Natura Delta, an interpretation Vic is one of the most important cities of the Connected cities er, there are also fields of mud or fields with centre, and beside the L’Encanyissada la- central area. It is famous for the portals of its Pla- The high-speed railway lines have brought the the early shoots of rice standing out from goon, the Casa de Fusta, an ornithologi- aigüestortes ça Major, its Roman temple, and the Cathedral of main Catalan capitals together so that today you squares of land bathed by the waters of i estany de cal museum next to an ancient hut of can travel from Barcelona to Girona in 38 minutes sant maurici Sant Pere, but also for the Living Music Market the Ebre. In the summer, rice shoots grow cane and mud. Beside the early rice fields, (by motorway it takes around 80 minutes) national Festival, where the soundtrack of modernity plays and from Barcelona to Figueres, very close to and change from a radiant green to anoth- park with the from Sant Carles de la Ràpita, las Ca- encantats each September. In central Catalonia, Cardona is the French frontier, in just 53. Similarly, from er more toasted colour between July and sotes, a 17th-century building, is now a peak in the home to an impressive mediaeval castle that Barcelona you can get to the September. Any time of year is good for background. Museu del Mar. station (between Tarragona and Reus) in just 33 speaks to us of wars, stages, and invasions, but minutes, and from here to Lleida in 26 minutes Some of the most spectacular mountain also of geology, because it has famous salt mines more. The high-speed railway now allows many scenery can be seen in the Aigüestortes i that can be visited to a depth of 86 metres. people to move around Catalonia for work and Estany de Sant Maurici National Park, Who hasn’t heard of Catalan cava? A large leisure. These are just some examples of the ease where the eight Romanesque churches with which travellers can get part is produced in the Penedès region, with its around Catalonia. and one hermitage declared UNESCO capital Vilafranca. Here, both cava and high- World Heritage stand over the Vall de Boí. quality wine are produced. It is also an outstand- And in the centre of the country is the ing square in which to create a human tower. Montseny Biosphere Reserve, another And further to the south, by the river Ebre, idyllic place for naturalists. Tortosa experienced prosperous times in the For more Renaissance. The town, which visitors pass on i information the way to the Delta de l’Ebre, has a rich archi- www.avexperience.es luís carro

tectural heritage that is worth exploring. © L

94 / Experience Catalonia Experience Catalonia / 95 SOURCES OF WISDOM On foot, on wheels, or on horseback, the trails and paths of Catalonia travel through breathtakingly beautiful scenery and allow visitors to learn more about the country’s cultural heritage.

© Servicios editoriales georama © Gemma miralda

There is a large network of marked paths, either VIEW OF TOSSA Another of the many possible options is to fol- Olot to Girona and from Girona to Sant Feliu de the ignatian FROM THE CAMI on Gran Recorrido (GR) routes, Pequeño low the so-called Route of the Cathars (Ruta dels Guíxols. For more information www.viasverdes.com way shares ITS DE RONDA AND PATH with the the most accessible Recorrido (PR) routes, or local paths (SL). A GREENWAY IN Càtars) or the Path of Good Men (Camí dels Bons In the , Conca de Barbarà, and Urgell way of saint LES TERRES way of saint james good example is the Patrol Route, or Camí de Homes) which refer to the members of this 13th local regions, the Cistercian Route leads hikers JAMES. THIS DE L’EBRE. TRAIL passES The Way of Saint James in Catalonia starts at Ronda, which follows the coastline of the Costa century Catholic sect who were severely re- to three monumental cistercian monasteries: through montserrat. Sant Pere de Rodes, and follows a route that Brava from Blanes to . Along the section pressed by the church. The GR 107 retraces the Santes Creus Monastery, Poblet Monastery, and passes through Montserrat and reaches Alcarrás, of trail from Torroella de Montgrí to Palamós, route that the Cathar exiles followed from the Vallbona de les Monges Monastery. For more infor- where it goes into Aragon. The purpose of the which passes through Begur and Calella de castle of Montségur, in France, to the sanctuary of mation www.larutadelcister.info ‘Way of Saint James for everyone’ project is to make the route accessible to all, regardless of Palafrugell, two Iberian treasures remain: el Cas- Queralt, overlooking the town of Berga (Pirineus). The Way of Saint James, known in Catalan as their age, background, or level of fitness. Not all tellot, on a beach in Palamós, and the castle of For more information www.camidelsbonshomes.com the Camí de Sant Jaume, crosses part of Catalonia of the barriers could be eliminated in one fell Sant Sebastià de Guarda in Palafrugell. For more Some cycling routes are difficult, but others and shares its path with the Ignatian Way, which swoop, but visitors can get a compass to avoid information www.camideronda.com are totally accessible. One of these is the Via goes in the opposite direction. In 1522, the recent- them and words can be used as a brush to paint scenes for those who cannot see them. Visitors Verda del (Costa Daurada). If you are ly converted Ignatius of Loyola started a pilgrim- can ensure that these words don’t interrupt the looking for an easy descent, a good starting age. His goal was to reach Barcelona to embark for peace and quiet of the walkers, who follow in the point is Horta de Sant Joan, a fantastic village Jerusalem. The path goes through Lleida, Verdú, footsteps of those who came near the mountain of Santa Bárbara and the Igualada and Montserrat, before reaching Manresa before them as they travel to Santiago de convent of Sant Salvador. Picasso chose to and the cave where he lived for eight months. Compostela. spend a season living in this village. Horta de For more information www.camidesantjaume.cat and Sant Joan has a museum on the artist. Next, caminoignaciano.org i For more you will arrive in Pinell de Brai, which is known information for having one of the ‘wine cathedrals’. In the camidesantjaume- northern part of Catalonia, visitors can travel peratothom.cat/ along the Ruta del Carrilet, which goes from

ariano cebolla Experience Catalonia / 97 © M CULTURAL GETAWAYS Secrets to discover By train, car, motorcycle or motor home, Catalonia’s infrastructure bring us comfortably to our destination. All we have to do is to choose a route. © infotur © infotur

he sun is about to set behind the your feet in the temperate waters of the SIX ROUTES TO santa eulália popular festivals that allow you to partici- d’erill La vall Montsià hills (Terres de l’Ebre). Badia dels Alfacs after visiting the Món EXPERIENCE CATALONIA and a road pate in Catalan traditions. Travelling by car You feel a light breeze and see Natura Delta interpretation centre just a Driving around Catalonia is easy. The net- with the gives you the chance to stop a moment for Pedraforca dozens of kitesurfing kites that few minutes away. It is a privilege to have work of roads takes you everywhere. mountain in the a photo, stretch your legs and, as if by T background. blend into the red sunset tones of the reached the beach with the motorhome. What’s more, the journey in and of itself chance, discover a mediaeval village, a evening sky. The motorhome is parked on Tomorrow, the journey continues, as you can be as beautiful as the destination, with craft fair, or a concert in the hills. the Barra del Trabucador, a six-kilometre visit the Gandesa wine cooperative, the impressive natural scenery to enjoy, im- strip of sandy beach connecting the Delta work of the modernist architect Cèsar pressive monuments to visit, culinary and de l’Ebre to the Punta de la Banya. You flamingos Martinell and later, take a stroll through the viticultural experiences to broaden your In the delta cannot miss the chance to stop to cool de l’ebre. old village of Corbera d’Ebre, which understanding of the environment, and suffered the bloody consequences of the Spanish Civil War. During a week-long trip through the ter- ritory, you will cross the Ebro river on the Catalunya Bus Turístic Pas d’en Barca, a manual ferry that disem- If you are in Barcelona and want to stop at various sites in Catalonia but don’t have a vehicle, hop on a tourist bus. They are extremely comfortable, and your barks from the foot of the Templar Castle trip will include explanations provided by professional guides. There are dif- of Miravet. There will be few days to dis- ferent routes: to the monastery of Montserrat, to Figueres to take a look at the cover all of the beauty that Catalonia has work of Dalí, to Girona, or a tour of the Pyrenees. Service available for private à to offer. New routes will have to be la carte tours. planned, because there are so many stops worth making!

i For more information www.catalunyabusturistic.com © mariano cebolla

98 / Experience Catalonia Experience Catalonia / 99 V A L D ’ A R A N Vielha 8 8

8 f r a n c e 1 ANDORRA six routes to 8 8 Andorra 8 la Vella experience Catalonia 8 ROUTE 3 el Pont Puigcerdà de Suert Follow six routes to the cultural icons Sort

la Seu d’Urgell ROUTE 1 of Catalonia and enjoy everything 8 Andorra-La Seu ROUTE 4 8 Figueres 6 the journey has to offer. Discover Figueres- ROUTE 6 Roses Ripoll Catalonia’s rich heritage. P I RINE U S 7 Olot COS T A B R A V A Berga

Solsona 6 Girona Girona Vic Costa Brava la Bisbal d’Empordà UNESCO World Heritage Sites Girona-Costa Brava

1 Romanesque churches of the Vall de Boí Santa Coloma Balaguer de Farners Palamós 2 Poblet Monastery 10 3 Archaeological Ensemble of Tárraco TE RR E S D E L L E I D A Lleida-Alguaire Manresa 4 Works of Antoni Gaudí PAISA T G E S C OS T A 5 Palau de la Música Catalana and Lleida Tàrrega B ARC E LO N A BAR C ELON A ROUTE 2 6 Rock Art of the Mediterranean Basin Granollers Igualada 7 Patum of Berga Terrassa

Sabadell Mataró 8 Summer Solstice Fire Festivals in the Pyrenees Terres de l’Ebre Biosphere Reserve 9 4 BAR C ELON A Montseny Biosphere Reserve 6 10 ROUTE 5 2 Vilafranca 5 del Penedès Barcelona Montblanc Sant Feliu de Llobregat

6 Valls Barcelona-El Prat

Vilanova Cultural Experiences En Route C O STA D A URAD A el Vendrell i la Geltrú Camp de Tarragona Vilanova Route 1 The Pyrenees, from the Peaks to the Sea Reus Falset Reus i la Geltrú 3 ROUTE 2 Following the Mediterranean Coast Tarragona Móra ROUTE 3 Inland Secrets Gandesa Tarragona d’Ebre THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA ROUTE 4 Eastward from the Coast Remarkable Cities and Towns Catalonia

ROUTE 5 Following the footprints of culture Ports T ERR E S D E L ’ E B R E ROUTE 6 From Barcelona to the Pyrenees Airports 9 High-speed Train

Tortosa Main Highways Motorway/Dual Carriageway

Amposta 1

Sant Carles de la Ràpida

100 / Experience Catalonia Experience Catalonia / 101 ROUTE 1 ROUTE 2 The Pyrenees, Following the from the peaks Mediterranean to the sea COAST The Pyrenees are a universe in More than 500 kilometres themselves. This trip from the Val d’Aran of Mediterranean coast await to the sea will prove it to travellers. to delight visitors.

© francesc tur © miguel ángel álvarez

The starting point of this route is the Val d’Aran, the village of The journey continues through the Pallars Sobirà The trip starts in southern Catalonia, in Ulldeco- tamarit tinue to the Garraf hills and Sitges, another em- where 30% of the land is above 2,000 metres unha in the val region, following the wild waters of the na, a town a few kilometres from the coast with castle on blematic town, a cradle of Modernisme and of d’aran and a the beach. and where picture postcard villages with impres- view of the Pallaresa River, famous for its adventure sports. the Abrics de l’Ermita rock art, a set of thirteen great cultural effervescence. Long beaches sive slate roofs are nestled in the countryside at PORTALS of From here the route heads toward Seu d’Urgell, paintings which have been declared UNESCO stretch northwards to past the Delta del Llobre- the monastery the foot of snowcapped mountains. From this of ripoll. the location of the Santa Maria d’Urgell - World Heritage. From this point, the route goes on gat, the city of Barcelona and the re- point, we have to make our way towards the Vall ric and Cathedral, the only Romanesque cathe- to the Delta de l’Ebre Natural Park, a UNESCO gion with its pretty seaside villages. After Tordera de Boí, where there is a high concentration of dral in Catalonia. The next stop is Ripoll, with Biosphere Reserve. we come to the Costa Brava, where the moun- unique and exceptional architectural heritage. one of the country’s architectural icons, the Ro- The next stop offers visitors a cultural route: tains and the sea share the coastline and small manesque portals of the monastery of Santa the Genius Route (elpaisatgedelsgenis.cat), a jour- coves begin to appear. Palamós, Begur, and Maria de Ripoll, dating back to the 12th century. ney that tours the places from which Antoni Sant Martí d’Empúries are very beautiful en- La , with access via the Capsacosta Gaudí, Joan Miró, Pablo Picasso and Pau Casals claves that are worth a visit. The inland tunnels, gives way to the La Garrotxa Volcanic drew inspiration in producing their own timeless and Peratallada are too. The route returns to Zone Natural Park, a protected area with more pieces. A little under fifteen minutes away is the the coast, leaving the Aiguamolls de l’Empordà than forty craters surrounded by vegetation. The former capital of the in Hispania, on one side, and continuing on to Llançà and final destination of this route, which leads us to Tarraco, which today is the city of Tarragona. Portbou, the last village on the Costa Brava be- the sharp coastline of the Costa Brava, is the Worthy of special attention are the amphitheatre, fore France. Empordà, the place that inspired the surrealist the circus, and the walls along with other ruins artist Salvador Dalí. In the town of Figueres, you that form the ensemble declared UNESCO can visit the Dalí Theatre-Museum, where part of World Heritage. From here the route goes on to his work is displayed. Tamarit, which is crowned by a castle. We con- © imagen m.a.s.

102 / Experience Catalonia Experience Catalonia / 103 ROUTE 3 ROUTE 4 inland EASTWARD secrets FROM THE Catalonia is home to many must-see COAST sites that all tourists should mention Following the sun, in their travel journals. we will delve into Catalonia’s secrets.

© pctar. gz © servicios editoriales georama

There are places that are special, unforgettable, mapping in Suert, where you can visit the Museu d’Art This route starts in the Gavarres hills. A point vic square for another stop on the route, is that of Sant of great beauty and cultural value, places recog- sant climent Sacre de la Ribagorça. In , where it is possible to enjoy prehistoric remains and façades Martí de Mura, which stands in impressive nat- de taüll in rupit. nised worldwide. The church of Sant Climent de and the seu there is an activity that will force you to get out of with various dolmens and megalithic funeral ural surroundings overlooked by the Sant Taüll is one such place. It shines with the splen- vella in lleida. the car and into another vehicle. The Tren dels constructions. The roads now lead to Sant Hi- Llorenç de Munt i Obac Natural Park. The route dour it had in the 12th century and inside, every Llacs is a train with a restored locomotive engine lari Sacalm, a town renowned for its waters with takes us to the foot of the geologically unique hour, a spectacular mapping is projected to re- that travels along a panoramic route, giving visi- medicinal mineral properties and its spas. The mountain of Montserrat, and from there to the create the original Pantocrator that decorated tors beautiful views of Montsec. trip goes on to , a village which each river Corb, which will lead us to the mediaeval the place. The next stop on this route is Pont de The next stop on this route is Lleida, where year holds a monumental fir tree fair. Now on the village of Guimerà. visitors can explore the Seu Vella, a religious way to the Vall d’en Bas, the scenery is broken building that was built in the twelfth century on by country houses and churches, like those of a the grounds of an ancient mosque. The route Christmas scene, until we reach Rupit i Pruït, a gives travellers the opportunity to relax of the very charming mediaeval village with a Roman- DOQ Priorat, DO Montsant, and DO Conca de esque artistic complex. Barberà. This last location is the site of the me- Much more populated and with a weekly diaeval town of Montblanc with its fourteenth market known all around, the city of Vic holds century walled complex. From here the route jewels of architecture and gastronomy: its dried leads to Reus, a sanctuary for modernista archi- sausage has been awarded the Protected Geo- tecture of the Costa Daurada, for a taste along graphic Indication. The journey continues to its traditional vermouth. The journey ends in Tar- Cardona, where a former salt mine operation ragona with its Roman ruins. can be visited. A different Romanesque church, stells © Kim CA © ramon gabriel ROUTE 5 ROUTE 6 Following From Barcelona the footprints to the Pyrenees of culture A trip to the north of the country, with a magical end in the The Cistercian Route, the route land of the elves. of wine and cava and Els Ports Natural Park are different ways to visit southern Catalonia. © imagen m.a.s. © imagen m.a.s.

By car we can explore the famous Cistercian the santes durní d’Anoia, in the Penedès region, or cultural Cities such as Sant Cugat del Vallès, with its cloister the Fundación Alícia, an innovative cuisine re- Route, which connects three spectacular mon- creus gems like the Cartoixa d’Escaladei Charter- Romanesque monastery, and Terrassa, a city of the search centre created by Ferran Adrià. From monastery monastEry asteries created under the Benedictine order. and a wine- house, surrounded by the renowned DOQ Prio- with a great industrial past, were sites that pro- of sant cugat here, the route heads into the Pyrenees, where These monasteries, Santes Creus, Vallbona de gastronomic rat vineyards, or approach villages like Pinell de moted Modernisme and Noucentisme. The del vallès three historic churches appear one after the experience and món les Monges, and Poblet, are UNESCO World in the penedès. Brai and Gandesa, with wineries, some of route leads to a place with more natural scene- sant benet. other: Santa Maria de Merlès, Sant Pau de Heritage Sites. We can also enjoy towns with which are modernista monuments. ry, the Sant Llorenç de Munt i l’Obac Natural Pinós, and Sant Miquel de Terradelles. The trip great wine and sparkling wine-making tradition The beautiful Els Ports Natural Park is locat- Park, which is home to the 12th century Ro- continues through the Coll del Port pass near such as Vilafranca del Penedès and Sant Sa- ed a few kilometres to the south. The town of manesque monastery of Sant Llorenç de Munt. the Cadí-Moixeró Natural Park and takes us to Horta de Sant Joan has stunning views which The route goes on to Navarcles, where the sym- Seu d’Urgell. The trip ends in a magical way, 30 inspired Picasso on his stays there. Following bolic Món Sant Benet is located. This unique km from the municipal area of Valls d’Aguilar, in the Ebro River to its mouth, we come to Tortosa, project focused on culture, tourism, and leisure the land of the minairons, tiny fantastic beings a town with a very interesting artistic legacy that brings together the mediaeval monastery and that appear in Pyrenean mythology. has been shaped by Arab, Jewish, Mediaeval, and Renaissance art.

Overlooking the sea and facing the Badia dels in. gz k

Alfacs, the coastal village of Sant Carles de la ar Ràpita has one of the most important weekly fish markets in Catalonia. © chopo. G © marc castellet © marc castellet A cook burning the sugar on the cream. TRADITIONAL magical kings are able to parade through all of the towns and villages CATALAN CULTURE at the same time. The parade in Barcelona is particularly A list of some of Catalonia’s spectacular. Since 26 December, traditional celebrations. the royal postmen have been collecting the children’s wish lists, but last-minute requests can be given to the pages in the parade. Catalonia has one foot in the future scene. Among these other holiday © tina bagué and the other in the past. The area items, the stands out. This © Gemma miralda builds upon its solid base and is usually a shepherd crouching tió of all Festival of vines and are garnished with a a Dijous Gras strong sense of identity as it down and defecating. Figures of sizes at a Christmas fair. Sant Antoni Abat sauce made from spicy red On the day of Dijous gras (Fat continues to grow in the age of sportspeople, politicians and other The festival of Sant Antoni Abat is peppers, roast tomato, toasted Thursday), when Carnival begins, modernity. This section takes you current figures can also be found in held on 17 January. On this day, or almonds, garlic, and oil. The egg sausage is eaten in Catalonia. on a tour of some of the most the same position. at the weekend closest to it, horses the presents. It is considered an calçotada, is eaten by hand and the This is the last day before Lent, and widely celebrated traditions and other animals are at the allegory that nature has to be mess made while eating it is directly many Catalans have to get ready for throughout the year. forefront of these festive parades proportional to the enjoyment felt. It and the ‘tió’ looked after for spring to be reborn. the days of abstinence. Fortunately, In Catalonia, Christmas is that take place in many Catalan is celebrated in large groups and is egg sausage is delicious. During that celebrated on 25 December. The towns. This celebration dates back fairly easy to get a spot. week, the Carnival and the Burial of Winter special thing is that on the next day NEW YEAR’S EVE to when animals were not only used the Sardine are celebrated. On New Year’s Eve, the dinner is for labour, but were also there is another festival that holds crema de sant josep SANTA LLÚCIA the same level of importance: Sant typically a gala dinner shared with considered raw materials and the 19 March is ’s Day in In the days before and after Santa Esteve, or Boxing Day. If on the relatives and friends. What is really forces of nature had to be called Catalonia, as well as the Fathers’ SPRING Llúcia (13 December), Christmas 25th tradition calls for escudella essential is to have 12 grapes to upon to protect them. Day. To celebrate, Catalans eat fairs are set up along the central and carn d’olla (a Catalan stew) as eat on each chime of the bells at crema cremada (burnt cream). This Easter streets of the towns of Catalonia. the main meal, canneloni are midnight. This guarantees that the calçotada is a very old and traditional dessert The expression “parecer una mona Vendors sell decorations, fir trees, typically eaten on the 26th. After new year will be a good one. Calçots are tender, white, and made with eggs, milk, sugar, de pascua” (to be like an Easter boxwood, , coloured dinner, the children use a stick to sweet spring onions. They belong cinnamon, and lemon peel. cake) means that you don’t have lights, and figures for the Nativity hit a log covered with a blanket to THE THREE KINGS to a specific class of onion. The Traditionally, this dish is cooked at good taste and wear gaudy clothes the rhythm of a song, until it craps © sergio lanz. GZ In the afternoon of 5 January, Calçots from Valls have the IGP home, but nearly all of the and makeup. The mona is a cake christmas gifts. This process is repeated until everyone has to go to the Three (Protective Geographic Indication) restaurants have it on their menu on that Catalan godparents give their decorations, the Tió craps coal, a sign that it is fir trees and Kings Day parade. Otherwise seal of quality. They are roasted this day and throughout the year, as over until next year. The Tió boxwood. known as the three wise men, these over the remains of trimmings from it is an exquisite dish. Outside generally comes down from the Catalonia, it is known as Catalan mountains and reaches the homes © oriol llauradó cream or créme brûlée. of Catalonia a few days before the holidays. It has to be offered hospitality, looked after and ‘fed’ until the day when children beat it to get

roasting © Miquel monfort calçots. egg sausage.

108 / Experience Catalonia Experience Catalonia / 109 two women celebrating Sant Jordi.

Feast of Corpus Christi trees cut expressly for the Corpus Christi is a Catholic feast celebration are burnt (fire festivals in celebrating to the presence of the Pyrenees, considered Intangible Christ in the Eucharist. This holiday Cultural Heritage of Humanity). The usually falls in June. In Catalonia, it festival takes place on the street, in is associated with several traditions, the squares, on the beach, etc. The including the carpet of flowers in classic sponge cake with candied Sitges and as well as fruit, cream, or crackling is eaten as of Arbúcies and (called onlookers toast with cava. It is a enramades); the ‘Patum de Berga’ magical night and is well worth not and the ou com balla (the dance of the missing. © Joan puig egg). In the towns of Barcelona and © oriol llauradó the Costa Daurada, an egg is placed pole dancers mare de déu del carme celebrating in the spring of water coming out of the local festival godchildren on Easter Monday. It is books. It is also a day on which a fountain, which is decorated with The virgin of Carmen is the patron in REUS. decorated with chocolate eggs and lovers’ day is celebrated, as the flowers and seasonal fruit. saint of seafarers. In Catalan fishing toy figures. Days before, Catalan legend of the knight Saint George villages, the processions typically cake shops fill their shop windows (Sant Jordi in Catalan) says that he involve decorated boats, floral with edible sculptures which are slayed the dragon when it was summer offerings, songs, and fireworks. all year round certainly not very discreet, in the about to devour a princess. From best sense of the expression. the Dragon’s blood, a bush revetlla de sant Joan la Diada (Catalan festes majors grew and Saint George offered the The longest night of the year is National Day) These are the large festivals princess one of the flowers. The SANT JORDI celebrated on 23 June. It coincides 11 September is Catalonia’s national celebrated by towns and cities. streets of Catalonia fill with stands Every 23 April, we celebrate the with the arrival of summer and the day. It is a holiday that is generally Among these, are the celebration of selling books and roses. It’s worth anniversaries of the deaths of end of the school year. It is a celebrated with large gatherings in Mercè (24 September), in Barcelona, seeing. It is the festival of literature Shakespeare and Cervantes. To festival that celebrates youth and the streets. It commemorates the fall autumn Santa Tecla (23 September) in and love. remember both literary geniuses, abundance, in which fire is the main of Barcelona on 11 September 1714, Tarragona, Sant Narcís (29 October) people in Catalonia give each other feature. Both old furniture gathered at the end of the War of Succession castanyada in Girona and Sant Anastasi (11 May) SANT ponç by neighbours (in the cities) and between the Bourbons and On the eve of 31 October, people in Lleida. In Vic the festa major is Every 11 May, calle Hospital, in the after a tough 14-month siege. get together to eat , sweet held in honour of Sant Miquel dels Barcelona Raval district, becomes potatoes and especially some Sants (5 July), in Terrassa the patron saint is Sant Pere (29 June). Reus © oriol llauradó an open-air herbal market. Since the sweets known by the name of making carpets sixteenth century, a market panellets, recognised as a also honors Sant Pere in a with flower Guaranteed Traditional Speciality celebration that takes place on the petals. dedicated to natural health and healthy food, such as honey, has by the European Union. same day. Vilafranca del Penedès taken place. The day this market is These are cakes made with ground celebrates in honour of Sant Fèlix held coincides with the time when almond, sugar, and egg, decorated (31 August) and Tortosa honours the the medicinal herbs are in full with pine seeds, chopped almonds, Mare de Déu de la Cinta (25 March). bloom. It is held in Barcelona chocolate, or quince. It is speculated In general, most festivals are held and other Catalan towns. that their origin comes from in the summer, and for enthusiasts, ancestral funerary rites in which it is possible to go from festival to these cakes were offered to the festival for weeks. The dances of a bonfire giants, correfoc with devils, on the night gods. They are also related to the of sant joan, arrival of the cold and the need for concerts, and popular meals, are in the pyrenees. high-calorie foods. always featured at these events.

110 / Experience Catalonia Experience Catalonia / 111 © oriol llauradó mORE informaTiOn

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