The Effect of Breaking Waves on a Coupled Model of Wind and Ocean Surface Waves
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Load more
Recommended publications
-
Observation of Rip Currents by Synthetic Aperture Radar
OBSERVATION OF RIP CURRENTS BY SYNTHETIC APERTURE RADAR José C.B. da Silva (1) , Francisco Sancho (2) and Luis Quaresma (3) (1) Institute of Oceanography & Dept. of Physics, University of Lisbon, 1749-016 Lisbon, Portugal (2) Laboratorio Nacional de Engenharia Civil, Av. do Brasil, 101 , 1700-066, Lisbon, Portugal (3) Instituto Hidrográfico, Rua das Trinas, 49, 1249-093 Lisboa , Portugal ABSTRACT Rip currents are near-shore cellular circulations that can be described as narrow, jet-like and seaward directed flows. These flows originate close to the shoreline and may be a result of alongshore variations in the surface wave field. The onshore mass transport produced by surface waves leads to a slight increase of the mean water surface level (set-up) toward the shoreline. When this set-up is spatially non-uniform alongshore (due, for example, to non-uniform wave breaking field), a pressure gradient is produced and rip currents are formed by converging alongshore flows with offshore flows concentrated in regions of low set-up and onshore flows in between. Observation of rip currents is important in coastal engineering studies because they can cause a seaward transport of beach sand and thus change beach morphology. Since rip currents are an efficient mechanism for exchange of near-shore and offshore water, they are important for across shore mixing of heat, nutrients, pollutants and biological species. So far however, studies of rip currents have mainly relied on numerical modelling and video camera observations. We show an ENVISAT ASAR observation in Precision Image mode of bright near-shore cell-like signatures on a dark background that are interpreted as surface signatures of rip currents. -
Part III-2 Longshore Sediment Transport
Chapter 2 EM 1110-2-1100 LONGSHORE SEDIMENT TRANSPORT (Part III) 30 April 2002 Table of Contents Page III-2-1. Introduction ............................................................ III-2-1 a. Overview ............................................................. III-2-1 b. Scope of chapter ....................................................... III-2-1 III-2-2. Longshore Sediment Transport Processes ............................... III-2-1 a. Definitions ............................................................ III-2-1 b. Modes of sediment transport .............................................. III-2-3 c. Field identification of longshore sediment transport ........................... III-2-3 (1) Experimental measurement ............................................ III-2-3 (2) Qualitative indicators of longshore transport magnitude and direction ......................................................... III-2-5 (3) Quantitative indicators of longshore transport magnitude ..................... III-2-6 (4) Longshore sediment transport estimations in the United States ................. III-2-7 III-2-3. Predicting Potential Longshore Sediment Transport ...................... III-2-7 a. Energy flux method .................................................... III-2-10 (1) Historical background ............................................... III-2-10 (2) Description ........................................................ III-2-10 (3) Variation of K with median grain size................................... III-2-13 (4) Variation of K with -
NWS Melbourne Marine Web Letter August 2013 (For Marine Forecast Questions 24/7: Call 321-255-0212, Ext
NWS Melbourne Marine Web Letter August 2013 (For Marine Forecast Questions 24/7: call 321-255-0212, ext. 2) Marine Links relevant to East Central Florida Buoy 41010 It is hoped that this buoy, which went adrift in February, will be redeployed by mid to late September. Additional Marine Observations I’ve added a web page that has most of the marine observations along the east coast. http://www.srh.noaa.gov/mlb/?n=marob Note that wind/wave data became available at Sebastian Inlet via the National Data Buoy Center earlier this year. There are also some web cams with wind data. One, at Jensen Beach, has wave data too. Upwelling Some on again, off again upwelling occurred over the continental shelf this summer. This is not unusual. South to southeast winds (near shore parallel) are the primary cause of periodic upwelling. In some years, these winds are persistent and stronger than normal, which produces more prolific upwelling. In 2003, water temps in the upper 50s occurred in mid August at Daytona Beach! Typically the upwelling diminishes by late August or September. Nearshore Wave Prediction System We will soon upgrade our nearshore wave model (SWAN) to the Nearshore Wave Prediction System (NWPS). One enhancement is that Gulf Stream data will be incorporated back into the wave model. This will allow us to give better estimates for the position of the west wall of the Gulf Stream. The wave model will again be able to generate higher wave heights in the Gulf Stream during northerly wind surges. Hopefully, this functionality will be ready by Fall when cold fronts start moving through again. -
Circulation-Wave Coupling with a Wave Parameterization for the Idealized California Coastal Region
Circulation-Wave Coupling With a Wave Parameterization For the Idealized California Coastal Region Le Ly and Curt Collins Dept. of Oceanography Naval Postgraduate School Monterey, CA 93043 1. Introduction atmospheric model), POM (Princeton Ocean Momentum and energy transfers across the air- Model; Blumberg and Mellor, 1987), and WAM sea interface under realistic ocean conditions are wave model (Wilczak et al., 1999), and an important not only in theoretical studies, but also atmosphere-POM-WAM for the Mediterranean in many applications including marine region (Lionello et al., 1999). atmospheric and oceanic forecasts and climate Based on a new concept of oceanic turbulence modeling on all scales. Surface breaking waves and a wave breaking condition of the linear wave are believed to be an important supplier of theory, a surface wave parameterization is turbulent energy besides shear production of the developed and presented. This wave classical turbulence theory. Waves contain a parameterization with wave-dependent roughness considerable amount of momentum and energy, is tested against available data on wave- and they redistribute these quantities over great dependent turbulence dissipation, roughness distances. Wind waves supply energy for length, drag coefficient, and momentum fluxes turbulence due to breaking. Ocean waves strongly using a coupled air-wave-sea model. We also effect the air-sea system on all scale. A part of the present a circulation-wave coupling study using a energy and momentum is transferred directly wave dependent roughness (Ly and Garwood, from the atmosphere to ocean currents while 2000) and taking the wind-wave-turbulence- another part is transferred to surface waves. The current relationship into account. -
OCEANS ´09 IEEE Bremen
11-14 May Bremen Germany Final Program OCEANS ´09 IEEE Bremen Balancing technology with future needs May 11th – 14th 2009 in Bremen, Germany Contents Welcome from the General Chair 2 Welcome 3 Useful Adresses & Phone Numbers 4 Conference Information 6 Social Events 9 Tourism Information 10 Plenary Session 12 Tutorials 15 Technical Program 24 Student Poster Program 54 Exhibitor Booth List 57 Exhibitor Profiles 63 Exhibit Floor Plan 94 Congress Center Bremen 96 OCEANS ´09 IEEE Bremen 1 Welcome from the General Chair WELCOME FROM THE GENERAL CHAIR In the Earth system the ocean plays an important role through its intensive interactions with the atmosphere, cryo- sphere, lithosphere, and biosphere. Energy and material are continually exchanged at the interfaces between water and air, ice, rocks, and sediments. In addition to the physical and chemical processes, biological processes play a significant role. Vast areas of the ocean remain unexplored. Investigation of the surface ocean is carried out by satellites. All other observations and measurements have to be carried out in-situ using research vessels and spe- cial instruments. Ocean observation requires the use of special technologies such as remotely operated vehicles (ROVs), autonomous underwater vehicles (AUVs), towed camera systems etc. Seismic methods provide the foundation for mapping the bottom topography and sedimentary structures. We cordially welcome you to the international OCEANS ’09 conference and exhibition, to the world’s leading conference and exhibition in ocean science, engineering, technology and management. OCEANS conferences have become one of the largest professional meetings and expositions devoted to ocean sciences, technology, policy, engineering and education. -
Download Download
I DEIA EDIÇÃO Imprensa da Universidade de Coimbra Email: [email protected] URL: http//www.uc.pt/imprensa_uc Vendas online: http://livrariadaimprensa.uc.pt DIREÇÃO Maria Luísa Portocarrero Diogo Ferrer CONSELHO CIENTÍFICO Alexandre Franco de Sá | Universidade de Coimbra Angelica Nuzzo | City University of New York Birgit Sandkaulen | Ruhr ‑Universität Bochum Christoph Asmuth | Technische Universität Berlin Giuseppe Duso | Università di Padova Jean ‑Christophe Goddard | Université de Toulouse‑Le Mirail Jephrey Barash | Université de Picardie Jerôme Porée | Université de Rennes José Manuel Martins | Universidade de Évora Karin de Boer | Katholieke Universiteit Leuven Luís Nascimento |Universidade Federal de São Carlos Luís Umbelino | Universidade de Coimbra Marcelino Villaverde | Universidade de Santiago de Compostela Stephen Houlgate | University of Warwick COORDENAÇÃO EDITORIAL Imprensa da Universidade de Coimbra CONCEÇÃO GRÁFICA Imprensa da Universidade de Coimbra IMAGEM DA CAPA Raquel Aido PRÉ ‑IMPRESSÃO Margarida Albino PRINT BY KDP ISBN 978‑989‑26‑1971‑2 ISBN DIGITAL 978‑989‑26‑1972‑9 DOI https://doi.org/10.14195/978‑989‑26‑1972‑9 Projeto CECH‑UC: UIDB/00196/2020 ‑ Centro de Estudos Clássicos e Humanísticos da Universidade de Coimbra © JULHO 2020, IMPRENSA DA UNIVERSIDADE DE COIMBRA RELENDO O PARMÉNIDES DE PLATÃO REVISITING PLATO’S PARMENIDES ANTÓNIO MANUEL MARTINS MARIA DO CÉU FIALHO (COORDS.) (Página deixada propositadamente em branco) In memoriam Samuel Scolnicov (Página deixada propositadamente em branco) Í NDICE Prefácio, Maria do Céu Fialho, António Manuel Martins .................. 9 Introdução, A. M. Martins ................................................................ 11 The ethical dimension of Plato’s Parmenides, Samuel Scolnicov .... 27 ”El engañoso dialogo de Platón consigo mismo en la primera parte del Parménides”, Néstor Luis Cordero ............................... -
Determination of Wave Characteristics
Guidance for Flood Risk Analysis and Mapping Determination of Wave Characteristics February 2019 Requirements for the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) Risk Mapping, Assessment, and Planning (Risk MAP) Program are specified separately by statute, regulation, or FEMA policy (primarily the Standards for Flood Risk Analysis and Mapping). This document provides guidance to support the requirements and recommends approaches for effective and efficient implementation. Alternate approaches that comply with all requirements are acceptable. For more information, please visit the FEMA Guidelines and Standards for Flood Risk Analysis and Mapping webpage (https://www.fema.gov/guidelines-and-standards-flood-risk-analysis-and- mapping). Copies of the Standards for Flood Risk Analysis and Mapping policy, related guidance, technical references, and other information about the guidelines and standards development process are all available here. You can also search directly by document title at https://www.fema.gov/library. Wave Determination February 2019 Guidance Document 88 Page iii Document History Affected Section or Subsection Date Description First Publication February Initial version of new transformed guidance. The content was 2019 derived from the Guidelines and Specifications for Flood Hazard Mapping Partners, Procedure Memoranda, and/or Operating Guidance documents. It has been reorganized and is being published separately from the standards. Wave Determination February 2019 Guidance Document 88 Page iv Table of Contents 1.0 Overview -
The Contribution of Wind-Generated Waves to Coastal Sea-Level Changes
1 Surveys in Geophysics Archimer November 2011, Volume 40, Issue 6, Pages 1563-1601 https://doi.org/10.1007/s10712-019-09557-5 https://archimer.ifremer.fr https://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00509/62046/ The Contribution of Wind-Generated Waves to Coastal Sea-Level Changes Dodet Guillaume 1, *, Melet Angélique 2, Ardhuin Fabrice 6, Bertin Xavier 3, Idier Déborah 4, Almar Rafael 5 1 UMR 6253 LOPSCNRS-Ifremer-IRD-Univiversity of Brest BrestPlouzané, France 2 Mercator OceanRamonville Saint Agne, France 3 UMR 7266 LIENSs, CNRS - La Rochelle UniversityLa Rochelle, France 4 BRGMOrléans Cédex, France 5 UMR 5566 LEGOSToulouse Cédex 9, France *Corresponding author : Guillaume Dodet, email address : [email protected] Abstract : Surface gravity waves generated by winds are ubiquitous on our oceans and play a primordial role in the dynamics of the ocean–land–atmosphere interfaces. In particular, wind-generated waves cause fluctuations of the sea level at the coast over timescales from a few seconds (individual wave runup) to a few hours (wave-induced setup). These wave-induced processes are of major importance for coastal management as they add up to tides and atmospheric surges during storm events and enhance coastal flooding and erosion. Changes in the atmospheric circulation associated with natural climate cycles or caused by increasing greenhouse gas emissions affect the wave conditions worldwide, which may drive significant changes in the wave-induced coastal hydrodynamics. Since sea-level rise represents a major challenge for sustainable coastal management, particularly in low-lying coastal areas and/or along densely urbanized coastlines, understanding the contribution of wind-generated waves to the long-term budget of coastal sea-level changes is therefore of major importance. -
Rip Currents and Alongshore Flows in Single Channels Dredged in the Surf
PUBLICATIONS Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans RESEARCH ARTICLE Rip currents and alongshore flows in single channels dredged 10.1002/2016JC012222 in the surf zone Key Points: Melissa Moulton1,2 , Steve Elgar2 , Britt Raubenheimer2 , John C. Warner3 , and Rip currents, feeder currents, and Nirnimesh Kumar4 meandering alongshore currents were observed in single channels 1 2 dredged in the surf zone Applied Physics Laboratory, University of Washington, Seattle, Washington, USA, Department of Applied Ocean Physics 3 The model COAWST reproduces the and Engineering, Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, Woods Hole, Massachusetts, USA, United States Geological observed circulation patterns, and is Survey, Coastal and Marine Geology Program, Woods Hole, Massachusetts, USA, 4Department of Civil and Environmental used to investigate dynamics for a Engineering, University of Washington, Seattle, Washington, USA wider range of conditions A parameter based on breaking-wave-driven setup patterns and alongshore currents predicts Abstract To investigate the dynamics of flows near nonuniform bathymetry, single channels (on average offshore-directed flow speeds 30 m wide and 1.5 m deep) were dredged across the surf zone at five different times, and the subsequent evolution of currents and morphology was observed for a range of wave and tidal conditions. In addition, Correspondence to: circulation was simulated with the numerical modeling system COAWST, initialized with the observed M. Moulton, incident waves and channel bathymetry, and with an extended set of wave conditions and channel [email protected] geometries. The simulated flows are consistent with alongshore flows and rip-current circulation patterns observed in the surf zone. Near the offshore-directed flows that develop in the channel, the dominant terms Citation: Moulton, M., S. -
Deep Ocean Wind Waves Ch
Deep Ocean Wind Waves Ch. 1 Waves, Tides and Shallow-Water Processes: J. Wright, A. Colling, & D. Park: Butterworth-Heinemann, Oxford UK, 1999, 2nd Edition, 227 pp. AdOc 4060/5060 Spring 2013 Types of Waves Classifiers •Disturbing force •Restoring force •Type of wave •Wavelength •Period •Frequency Waves transmit energy, not mass, across ocean surfaces. Wave behavior depends on a wave’s size and water depth. Wind waves: energy is transferred from wind to water. Waves can change direction by refraction and diffraction, can interfere with one another, & reflect from solid objects. Orbital waves are a type of progressive wave: i.e. waves of moving energy traveling in one direction along a surface, where particles of water move in closed circles as the wave passes. Free waves move independently of the generating force: wind waves. In forced waves the disturbing force is applied continuously: tides Parts of an ocean wave •Crest •Trough •Wave height (H) •Wavelength (L) •Wave speed (c) •Still water level •Orbital motion •Frequency f = 1/T •Period T=L/c Water molecules in the crest of the wave •Depth of wave base = move in the same direction as the wave, ½L, from still water but molecules in the trough move in the •Wave steepness =H/L opposite direction. 1 • If wave steepness > /7, the wave breaks Group Velocity against Phase Velocity = Cg<<Cp Factors Affecting Wind Wave Development •Waves originate in a “sea”area •A fully developed sea is the maximum height of waves produced by conditions of wind speed, duration, and fetch •Swell are waves -
Swell and Wave Forecasting
Lecture 24 Part II Swell and Wave Forecasting 29 Swell and Wave Forecasting • Motivation • Terminology • Wave Formation • Wave Decay • Wave Refraction • Shoaling • Rouge Waves 30 Motivation • In Hawaii, surf is the number one weather-related killer. More lives are lost to surf-related accidents every year in Hawaii than another weather event. • Between 1993 to 1997, 238 ocean drownings occurred and 473 people were hospitalized for ocean-related spine injuries, with 77 directly caused by breaking waves. 31 Going for an Unintended Swim? Lulls: Between sets, lulls in the waves can draw inexperienced people to their deaths. 32 Motivation Surf is the number one weather-related killer in Hawaii. 33 Motivation - Marine Safety Surf's up! Heavy surf on the Columbia River bar tests a Coast Guard vessel approaching the mouth of the Columbia River. 34 Sharks Cove Oahu 35 Giant Waves Peggotty Beach, Massachusetts February 9, 1978 36 Categories of Waves at Sea Wave Type: Restoring Force: Capillary waves Surface Tension Wavelets Surface Tension & Gravity Chop Gravity Swell Gravity Tides Gravity and Earth’s rotation 37 Ocean Waves Terminology Wavelength - L - the horizontal distance from crest to crest. Wave height - the vertical distance from crest to trough. Wave period - the time between one crest and the next crest. Wave frequency - the number of crests passing by a certain point in a certain amount of time. Wave speed - the rate of movement of the wave form. C = L/T 38 Wave Spectra Wave spectra as a function of wave period 39 Open Ocean – Deep Water Waves • Orbits largest at sea sfc. -
1D Laboratory Study on Wave-Induced Setup Over A
1 LES Modeling of Tsunami-like Solitary Wave Processes 2 over Fringing Reefs 3 4 Yu Yao1, 4, Tiancheng He1, Zhengzhi Deng2*, Long Chen1, 3, Huiqun Guo1 5 6 1 School of Hydraulic Engineering, Changsha University of Science and Technology, 7 Changsha, Hunan 410114, China. 8 2 Ocean College, Zhejiang University, Zhoushan, Zhejiang 316021, China. 9 3 Key Laboratory of Water-Sediment Sciences and Water Disaster Prevention of 10 Hunan Province, Changsha 410114, China. 11 4Key Laboratory of Coastal Disasters and Defence of Ministry of Education, 12 Nanjing, Jiangsu 210098, China 13 14 15 16 * Corresponding author: Zhengzhi Deng 17 E-mail: [email protected] 18 Tel: +86 15068188376 19 1 20 ABSTRACT 21 Many low-lying tropical and sub-tropical reef-fringed coasts are vulnerable to 22 inundation during tsunami events. Hence accurate prediction of tsunami wave 23 transformation and runup over such reefs is a primary concern in the coastal management 24 of hazard mitigation. To overcome the deficiencies of using depth-integrated models in 25 modeling tsunami-like solitary waves interacting with fringing reefs, a three-dimensional 26 (3D) numerical wave tank based on the Computational Fluid Dynamics (CFD) tool 27 OpenFOAM® is developed in this study. The Navier-Stokes equations for two-phase 28 incompressible flow are solved, using the Large Eddy Simulation (LES) method for 29 turbulence closure and the Volume of Fluid (VOF) method for tracking the free surface. 30 The adopted model is firstly validated by two existing laboratory experiments with 31 various wave conditions and reef configurations. The model is then applied to examine 32 the impacts of varying reef morphologies (fore-reef slope, back-reef slope, lagoon width, 33 reef-crest width) on the solitary wave runup.