Gaeta Base Nautica Flavio Gioia Welcome to Gaeta

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WELCOME TO GAETA BASE NAUTICA FLAVIO GIOIA WELCOME TO GAETA

WELCOME TO GAETA Base Nautica Flavio Gioia is pleased to provide you with the following information, and we hope that it will help you to enjoy your stay in Gaeta.

We’ve collected all of the commercial information from our personal experiences, and our aim is not to advertise any of the following businesses.

Besides Gaeta, we will introduce you to several towns and islands situated in the surrounding area. The most adventurous spirits can get in touch with nature, history lovers will be fascinated by the ancient buildings, and all those who are fond of delicious food will not be disappointed.

Finally, if you wish to learn more about the Italian language and culture, you can attend a tailor made course. We will update this e-book/booklet from time to time to keep things current.

If you have any questions or comments, please don’t hesitate to let us know.

The management staff extends our warmest welcome and wishes you a pleasant stay.

Anna e Luca Simeone

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Montagna Spaccata PLANIMETRIA DEL PORTO - INFORMATION MAP BASE NAUTICA FLAVIO GIOIA 04024 GAETA (LT) ITALIA - LUNGOMARE CABOTO, 93 - TEL. +39 0771 311013 / 4 - FAX +39 0771 464580 - www.basenautica.com - [email protected]

ETY

LE NOSTRE COORDINATE / Coordinates 5 12 LATO UFFICI A 11 LAT. 41° 12’ 821’’ N MAIN OFFICES LONG. 13° 34’ 488’’ E MOLO S. ANTONIO / S. Antonio’s Wharf ETY B 9 13 3 8 D 14 7

ETAAT10 C 15

1 EL 16 17 16

19 YAT L GAETA 21 18 20

16 • 19 • 20 17 DISTRIBUTORE - FUEL DOCK 18

PERCORSO PEDONALE MARINA-UFFICI • WALKING PATH MARINA - OFFICES

A B C D PLANIMETRIA DEL PORTO - INFORMATION MAP BASE NAUTICA FLAVIO GIOIA 04024 GAETA (LT) ITALIA - LUNGOMARE CABOTO, 93 - TEL. +39 0771 311013 / 4 - FAX +39 0771 464580 - www.basenautica.com - [email protected]

ETY

LE NOSTRE COORDINATE / Coordinates 5 12 LATO UFFICI A 11 LAT. 41° 12’ 821’’ N MAIN OFFICES LONG. 13° 34’ 488’’ E MOLO S. ANTONIO / S. Antonio’s Wharf ETY B 9 13 3 8 D 14 7

ETAAT10 C 15

1 EL 16 17 16

19 YAT L GAETA 21 18 20

16 • 19 • 20 17 DISTRIBUTORE - FUEL DOCK 18

PERCORSO PEDONALE MARINA-UFFICI • WALKING PATH MARINA - OFFICES

A B C D INDEX

INDEX BASE NAUTICA FLAVIO GIOIA 26 USEFUL INFORMATION 28 Banks / Banche 15 MARINA OFFICE 37 Bars-Pubs / Bar-Birrerie Office hours / Orario uffici 50 Bathing suits / Costumi da bagno Office Phones 40 Bakeries / Forni Mail 47 Barbers / Barbieri Fax 52 Beaches / Spiagge E-mail 46 Beauty Shops / Estetiste VHF 48 Bedding / Materassi Water / Acqua 40 Butcher Shops / Macellerie Electricity / Elettricità 45 Candy Stores / Negozi di caramelle Chandlery / Negozio accessori nautici 53 Ceramic Courses / Corsi di ceramica 16 MARINA FACILITIES / Servizi del Marina 53 Chocolate Factory / Cioccolateria Fuel / Carburante 45 Coffee Store / Torrefazione Security / Guardiania 32 Concerts / Concerti Washer and dryer / Lavatrice ed asciugatrice 120 Cooking classes / Corsi di cucina Free WI FI 51 Dance lessons / Lezioni di ballo Marina Restaurant / Ristorante 42 Delicatessen / Negozio di gastronomia 16 ARRIVAL COSTITUTO 29 Dental technician / Odontotecnico 29 Dentists / Dentisti GAETA 29 Doctors / Medici 50 Dress maker-Seamstress / Sartoria 20 GAETA TRAVEL 50 Embroidery / Ricamo 21 Info Point 28 Emergency calls / Numeri di emergenza 21 Travel agencies / Agenzie di viaggio 28 Emergency medical / Emergenza medica 21 Taxi service 49 Eyeglass Stores / Negozi di ottica 21 International Airports / Aeroporti Internazionali 49 Fabric Shop / Negozio di stoffe 22 Where to stay close to Rome Int. Airport 31 Film Developing / Fotografi 22 Buses / Autobus 39 Fish Mongers / Pescherie 23 Tickets / Biglietti 48 Framing / Cornici 23 Trains / Treni 41 Fresh Pasta / Pasta Fresca 24 Ferries - Hydrofoils to the Pontine Island 39 Frozen Foods / Surgelati 24 Car rentals / Noleggio auto 43 Gaeta’s Olives / Olive di Gaeta 24 Bike and motorscooter rentals 52 Golf Courses / Campi da Golf / Noleggio biciclette e motorini 51 Gyms / Palestre

WELCOME TO GAETA

- 8 - 46 Hairdressers / Parrucchiere 54 SUGGESTED NATURE AND 47 Hardware Stores-Locksmiths / Ferramenta CULTURAL ITINERARIES 29 Hospital / Ospedale 55 Gaeta 32 Hotels and Bed & Breakfasts 55 Monte Orlando 44 Ice cream / Gelati 55 Gaeta History 31 Italian lessons / Lezioni di italiano 55 The ancient quarter of Sant’Erasmo 49 Jewelers / Gioelliere 55 De Vio Palace and Diocesan Museum 38 Markets / Mercati 56 Santa Lucia Church or Saint Mary in Peninsulis 27 Mobile phone operators / 56 San Giovanni a Mare Operatori servizio telefonico mobile 56 Church of Annunziata 31 Movie Theatre / Cinema 56 Church of San Domenico 42 Mozzarella-Cheese / Formaggi 56 Church of S. Maria della Sorresca 30 Newstands / Edicole 57 Castle Angioino and Aragonese 44 Organic foods / Cibo Biologico 57 Church of San Francesco 30 Osteopath / Osteopata 57 Pinacoteca Giovanni da Gaeta 45 Pastry Shops / Pasticceria 57 The modern Town of “Elena” 51 Personal Jogging Guide 57 Via Indipendenza 30 Pet Shops / Negozi per animali 57 Lucio Sempronio Atratino Mausoleum 28 Pharmacies / Farmacie 27 Post Offices / Uffici Postali 48 Propane tanks / Bombole propano OUTSIDE GAETA 52 Regatta 33 Restaurants / Ristoranti 60 CULTURAL HISTORY AND SUGGESTED 50 Shiatzu ITINARARIES OUTSIDE GAETA 48 Shoe Repair / Calzolaio 61 Itri 30 Stationery/Photocopies/Digital Printing 61 Sperlonga 38 Supermarkets / Supermercati 61 Fondi 52 Swimming Pool-Beaches / Piscine-Spiagge 62 Terracina 36 Take Out Food / Rosticceria 63 Monte San Biagio 48 Television-stereo-electronic assistance 63 San Felice Circeo 52 Tennis Court / Campi da Tennis 63 The Circeo National Park 43 Vegetable Stand / Fruttivendolo 63 Sabaudia 30 Veterinarians / Veterinari 64 Priverno 49 Watch repairs 64 Fossanova Abbey 64 Sezze 51 Yoga

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- 8 - - 9 - 65 Sermoneta HIKING ITINERARIES 65 Garden of Ninfa 66 Valvisciolo Abbey 66 Norma 84 Parco del Circeo 67 Cori 84 Gianola Monte di Scauri 67 Formia 86 Cima del Redentore 68 Minturno 87 Madonna della Civita 69 The Suio Thermal Baths / Terme di Suio 88 Piano Terruto 69 Cassino

THE ABBEYS / Le Abbazie NAPLES 71 THE BENEDECTINE ABBEYS / Abbazie Benedettine 92 DAY TRIPS TO NAPLES AND VICINITY 71 Montecassino Abbey 92 Pompei 72 San Vincenzo al Volturno Abbey 92 Ercolano 94 Caserta Royal Palace 72 THE CISTERCIAN ABBEYS 94 San Leucio Silk factory / Abbazie Circestensi 95 Naples 73 Fossanova Abbey 97 Capri 73 Valvisciolo Abbey 73 Trisulti Abbey 74 Casamari Abbey 98 SOUTH OF NAPLES 98 Positano 75 HISTORY TROUGH THE EYES OF AN EXPERT 99 Amalfi and its Coast / La storia vista dagli occhi di un esperto 99 Grotta dello Smeraldo 75 Minturnae 99 Ravello 75 Sperlonga 101 Maiori 75 Montecassino 102 Paestum

THE PONTINE ISLANDS / Le Isole Pontine ROME 78 Ponza 78 Palmarola 78 Zannone 106 IN THE CITY MUSEUM AT THE STATION 79 Ventotene 106 Museo Nazionale Romano - 79 Santo Stefano Terme di Diocleziano

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- 10 - 106 INTERNATIONAL BOOK STORES IN ROME 109 DAY TRIPS NEAR ROME 106 Il Mare International Sea Bookstore 109 Tivoli 106 Anglo-American Bookstore 106 The Lion Bookshop 111 DAY TRIPS NORTH OF ROME 106 The Corner Bookstore 111 Sulmona 106 La Libreria del Viaggiatore 111 Orvieto 106 Termini Train Station Bookstore 112 Deruta

106 SOME RESTAURANTS AND BARS IN DOWNTOWN ROME RECIPES AND CULINARY CULTURE 106 Nino 106 Porto di Ripetta 116 Pizza Napoletana 107 Il Galletto 116 Panzanella Napoletana 107 Piperno 107 Il Bolognese 116 OUR CULINARY CULTURE 107 Forum Hotel 116 Appetizers 107 Fried Codfish 117 First courses 107 La Prosciutteria 117 Second courses 118 Side dishes 107 CAFÉ AND TEA ROOMS 107 Rosati 118 TRADITIONAL RECIPES FROM GAETA 107 Ciampini 118 Anchovy Fishballs 108 Cafè Greco 119 Easter Cake 108 Babington 119 Mimosa Cake 108 Tazza d’Oro 120 Cianfò 108 Vyta Boulanerie Italiana 120 Cooking Class 108 Made Creative Bakery 120 NOTES FROM AORANGI’S GALLEY 108 OUTDOOR MARKETS IN ROMA 120 Soups 109 Roma - Porta Portese 109 Roma - Via Sannio

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- 10 - - 11 - WELCOME TO GAETA BASE NAUTICA FLAVIO GIOIA Berths for Superyacht

WELCOME TO GAETA WELCOME TO GAETA MARINA SERVICES

WELCOME TO GAETA

- 14 - OFFICE HOURS for drinking water, and the red pipe is for Marina office hours are: washing water. Please, always use water 9:00 am to 7:00 pm. with a spray nozzle for conservation. In Gaeta, mineral water is generally con- OFFICE PHONES sumed at home, with tap water being used The main numbers at the office are: to cook. The tap water in Gaeta is, howev- +39 0771 311013 or +39 0771 311014. er, perfectly safe to drink. There are many types of bottled water in Italy. MAIL We have listed a few brands below. Incoming mail can be addressed Sparkling: Ferrarelle, Sant’Agata to the marina: Semi Sparkling: Uliveto BASE NAUTICA FLAVIO GIOIA Still: San Gemini (recommended for children) Lungomare Caboto, 93 Still: Levissima, Recoaro, San Benedetto, 04024 Gaeta LT - ITALY Boario, Sant’Anna Still/Semi Sparkling: Rocchetta, Vera FAX The fax machine is in the marina’s main of- ELECTRICITY fice.You can send and receive faxes at the Energy voltage is 220V, 50Hz. number: + 39 0771 46 4580. Adaptors and extension cords are available at the Marina Chandlery. 380V also avail- E-MAIL able for amp power of 32/63/125. [email protected] Use of this power source is billed on con- sumption. VHF The Marina Channel is CH 9. CHANDLERY The chandlery is well stocked with the best WATER brands from the nautical market. Bruno Two water outlets are provided on the and Salvatore will be happy to be of help. dock for each boat, one drinking water, and Hours are from: the other only for washing. If your boat is 8:00 am to 12:00 pm and 2:00 pm on the concrete dock, ask the dock staff to 6:00 pm Monday through Friday. for a connector for drinking water. If your Spring/Summer - the chandlery is also open boat is on the pontoons, the green pipe is on Saturdays from 8:00 am to 12:00 pm

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- 14 - - 15 - MARINA FACILITIES FREE WI FI 100 Ton travel lift There is free WiFi in the entire marina area. 16 Ton mobile crane Please ask the dock staff or office for the Electrical, machine, and wood-working shops current Password. Sailmaker and upholsterer Rigging MARINA RESTAURANT Refitting Inside the marina there is a restaurant with bar: Deck replacement The menu is available at the marina office, Compass adjustment or stop by for a drink and have a look. Battery charging It is currently being remodelled, and will re- Paint Application, Antiosmosis care open in March 2016. 1,500 square metres of storage Storage sheds Waste material disposal Showers PLEASE COMPLY WITH ITALIAN RULES FUEL ARRIVAL COSTITUTO The fuel dock dispenses diesel and gasoline. Engine oil is available at the chandlery. A boat flying a NON EU Flag, upon arrival TAX FREE COMMERCIAL - SUPER YACHT FUEL in the first port of entry in Italy, must de- AT THE DOCK clare its presence and ask to be issued a certificate called “Costituto di Arrivo” . SECURITY This document must specify the last port The marina gate is staffed 24 hours a day, at which the boat stopped, and must in- and there are security guards on each side clude a list of the crew members/guests of the harbor. with identification documents. This list must be updated with any changes WASHER AND DRYER occurring while cruising in Italian waters. There is a washer and dryer on the Office side This document should be shown upon re- close to the showers (see the marina map). If quest to any control Authority. you need to use them, please ask the dock staff for a token (at a small charge), and please fill out the consignment form for the key.

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- 16 - WELCOME TO GAETA WELCOME TO GAETA

- 16 - - 17 - WELCOME TO GAETA gaeta

WELCOME TO GAETA WELCOME TO GAETA gaeta TRAVEL

WELCOME TO GAETA

- 20 - INFO POINT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTS

An info point can be found in Old Gaeta, Rome-Fiumicino at Piazza Traniello 18. “Leonardo da Vinci” (120 km) WEB INFO: http://www.prolocogaeta.it/default.aspx phone: +39 06 65953640 / 65954455 How to get to Rome-Fiumicino by train: Take the train from Formia station to Rome “Ter- TRAVEL AGENCY mini” Station. Train service from the airport or from Rome’s main train station runs non- Viaggi di Kilroy stop between the airport and the train sta- Via Veneto, 6 tion. Trains leave every half hour on Track 22. phone +39 0771 464560 [email protected] Rome-Ciampino (Km 100): Antonio speaks English, and is very helpful This is a small airport, with flights, tours, train tickets, concert and specializing in charter flights theatre reservations. He can organize daily phone: +39 06 794941 trips with multilingual guides and transfers How to get to Rome-Ciampino by train: by car or mini van. Train from Formia station to Rome “Termi- ni” Station - bus to Ciampino Airport leaves Viaggi Preziosi every 20 minutes. Via Cavour, 47 phone: +39 0771 452324 / 452484 Naples Capodichino [email protected] International Airport (90 Km) Antonella speaks English, and is helpful Phone: +39 081 7896111 with flights, tours and train tickets. How to get to Naples-Capodichino by train: Take the train from Formia station to Naples main station “Stazione Centrale”, bus (Alibus) TAXI SERVICE leaves every 30 minutes or taxi service to the airport, which is only 6km from the station. If you wish to book a taxi or a van, you may *There is construction going on currently at the contact the marina office or you can con- main station, so the bus stop is one block up around tact Antonio directly: +39 348 5103504 the construction as you are coming out of the front of the station.

WELCOME TO GAETA WELCOME TO GAETA

- 20 - - 21 - WHERE TO STAY CLOSE Should run approximately every half hour, TO ROME INT. AIRPORT but there is a schedule available with exact hours at the information office. Hilton Rome Airport phone +39 06 65258 Or see website at: This hotel is inside the Fiumicino Airport. http://www.cotralspa .it/Orari.aspx There is a connection to downtown Rome Quick reference on schedules page of site: by train every half hour. Da: Partenza = From: Departure from A: Destinazione = To: Arrival to Rome Marriot Park Hotel telephone +39 06 658821 Gaeta has three departure stops and you This hotel is one of the largest hotels near want to click on da “P.zza della Libertà” Rome airport, located just 11km from Fiumici- no airport and 14 km from downtown Rome. Formia has three arrival stops. The first is the seaport “Porto P.Le Vespucci”, BUSES and the second is directly to the station per “Staz.FS”. URBAN LINE (orange color) Vice versa is the same, so just click on the These buses stop in front of the marina gate departure from Formia that you need, as and cover several city routes. they are the same. They run approximately every 20 minutes. The Gaeta terminal is at Piazza Traniello in Old Orario Feriale = Weekdays Gaeta, but they make many stops in Gaeta. Orario Festivo = Holidays The routes are designated by the letters “A”, Orario Sabato = Saturdays “B” and “C”. Fares are purchased on the bus.

COTRAL (blue color) IMPORTANT NOTE For the train station: This bus currently runs only certain hours directly when “Gaeta-Formia Stazione” is on the to the Station, otherwise goes to the Seaport in lighted panel on the front of the bus. It Formia, then offers free shuttle service (Navetta) stops right in front of the marina gate. which stops across the parking lot toward the sea-

WELCOME TO GAETA

- 22 - front, and goes to the station every 20 minutes, so - Bar Triestina: Piazza Roma plan for this extra time, as it isn’t always the best (only the bus ticket to Formia) connection. Your bus ticket is good for the Navetta - Primula (perfume store): Piazza Roma, 38 as well. The Bus stop on the way back is in front of (most tickets) the Primula store Piazza dell Liberta’/Piazza Roma, 38, or one stop before is good too. - Newspapers kiosks: Piazza Roma (most tickets including both BIRGS) - Alges newstand: Via Buonomo, 63 COTRAL OUT OF TOWN (blue color) (BIRG) Bus Lines Gaeta - Sperlonga Gaeta - Sperlonga - Terracina TRAINS Gaeta - Sperlonga - Terracina - Latina- Roma Gaeta - Cassino Trains to Rome and Naples run about every hour. BUS STOPS Train tickets can be purchased at Kilroy Sperlonga direction: travel, or there are ticket machines at the Piazza della Libertà, 38 station. in front of the Primula Store. Train schedules are available, and tickets can also be purchased on line at: Formia / Cassino direction: http://www.trenitalia.it/”www.trenitalia.it in front of the Marina gate. Both Kilroy Travel, and Trenitalia Website offer special rates if available Train tickets (kilometrical tickets - biglietti TICKETS chilometrici) to Rome and Naples are also available at the same stores as the buses. • URBAN tickets for orange buses • ONE COURSE COTRAL tickets to Formia • BIRG DAILY COTRAL that is good for 24 hours B.I.R.G. SPECIAL DAILY TICKET FOR ROME and covers as far as Sperlonga and Cassino. AND LAZIO REGION The special daily ticket is the B.I.R.G., which can be • BIRG REGIONAL that is described below used for all buses, metro and trains in the Lazio Re- are available at most “Tabacchi” (cigarette gion for 24 hours. Make sure you stamp the ticket stores), or in the stores listed below that on the bus or at the train station before your de- are close to the marina: parture or you will receive a heavy fine. There is a

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- 22 - - 23 - yellow ticket stamper on the bus and at the station. BIKE - MOTORSCOOTER RENTALS If you want a faster train, there are the IR (Interre- gionale) and the IC (Inter City) trains. Both take 1 hour and 10 minutes, but for the IC Viaggi di Kilroy: there is an additional charge each way. Via Veneto, 6 [email protected] phone +39 0771 464560 FERRIES AND HYDROFOILS TO THE You can speak to Antonio PONTINE ISLANDS if you wish to rent a car, bike or motoscooter. Departing from the Formia Seaport, you can reach the “Pontine Islands” of Ponza and Ventotene by ferry or hydrofoil. Care- mar Ferries and hydrofoil tickets can be purchased at the office on the pier. phone +39 0771 23800 22710 or visit: www.traghettilines.it/it/traghetti-isole-pontine.aspx Call before leaving to make sure of the schedule.

CAR RENTALS

Europcar: Lungomare Caboto, 210 phone +39 0771 470353 or visit: www.europcar.it/localita/italia/gaeta Closed Saturday afternoons and Sundays. It is possible to make a reservation and receive thecar at the marina. Please contact our offices.

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- 24 - Porto Romano - Ventotene

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- 24 - - 25 - USEFUL INFORMATION

WELCOME TO GAETA

- 26 - POST OFFICES [email protected] (Poste e Telecomunicazione) FB page: CaietaPost

The Main Post Office is located in Piazza Carlo III AREA CODES (PHONE) phone + 39 0771 462000 Exit the marina office entrance and turn Gaeta: 0771 left, it is the large white building that reads Naples: 081 “Poste e Telecomunicazione”. Rome: 06 Main Post office hours: From outside Italy : + 39 (area code) (number) Monday thru Friday from 8:10 to 6:30pm (continual hours) On Saturdays, and the last day of the month, MOBILE PHONE OPERATORS from 8:30 to 12:00pm TIM: Post Offices in Old Gaeta: Video In • Via Faustina, 7 Lungomare Caboto, 544 • Piazza delle Sirene, 10 (close to the fish market). phone +39 0771 451002 Post office hours: Monday thru Friday from 8:10 am to 01:00 pm VODAFONE: On Saturdays, and the last day of the month, Kosmo Elettronica from 8:30 to 12:00 pm. Via Papa Giovanni, XXIII phone +39 0771 464649 Caieta Post (english spoken) phone: +39 0771 542478 Located right across the street from the WIND: marina, next to Mary’s Grocery Store. Sinergy All postal services plus payment/recharge ser- Corso Italia, 75 vices, fax and photcopies, and courier service: phone +39 0771 450408 SDA national UPS international “3”: They will pick up at the marina if needed. Corso Cavour, 65/67 For more information visit: www.sailpost.it phone +39 0771 310635

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- 26 - - 27 - BANKS EMERGENCY CALLS (FREE)

All the listed banks are within walking dis- Medical: 118 tance of the marina. Fire:115 Most local banks will give VISA cash ad- Carabinieri /Police: 112 or 113 vances. Coast Guard EMERGENCY: 1530 All bank CASH machines accept NYCE, PLUS, The marina staff will be happy to help you and EXCHANGE cards. with any information you need for, or from Bank Machines are also enabled to do cell the Coast Guard. phone: +39 0771 460100 phone money recharges. Most banks are open EMERGENCY MEDICAL CARE from 8:30 to 1:00pm CALL 118 active 24/7 and from 3:00pm to 4:00pm.

Banca Popolare di Fondi PHARMACIES Corso Cavour, 31 phone +39 0771 465341 In Italy all pharmacies can diagnose and prescribe for minor ailments. There is always Monte dei Paschi di Siena fil. Gaeta a pharmacy open for emergencies, and the Piazza Mare all’Arco, 9 schedule and phone are posted on the door. phone +39 0771 451911 GAETA Intesa San Paolo Gualtieri: Piazza della Liberta’ 8/1 Lungomare Caboto, 556 phone +39 0771 460201 phone +39 0771 460543 If you need help speak to Mrs. Sissi. Unicredit Closed Wednesday afternoon. Corso Cavour, 24 phone +39 0771 466032 Giugliano: Piazza Mazzoccolo, 19 phone +39 0771 462386 If you need help speak to Dr. Attilio. Closed Friday afternoon.

WELCOME TO GAETA

- 28 - Centrale: DOCTORS Corso Cavour, 24 phone +39 0771 460319 DOCTOR ON CALL (Guardia Medica): If you need help speak to Dr. Mino. Salita Cappuccini, 1 Closed Thursday afternoon. phone +39 0771 779337 Here you can find a doctor every night Paraceliachia: from 8:00pm to 8:00am Via Independenza, 7 Saturday from 2:00pm to 8:00pm phone +39 0771 466162 Sunday from 8:00am to 8:00pm Dott. Massimo Sonderegger pharmacy for celiac needs GENERAL DOCTORS: Dr. Giacomo Bonelli: HOSPITALS Via Napoli, 5 There is a Hospital in Gaeta, phone +39 0771 465515 / 740307 with Emergency Treatment If necessary, he will come on board. phone: +39 0771 770795 He speaks some english.

FORMIA DENTISTS / Dentisti: Dono Svizzero Hospital: (some of them are English speaking) Via Appia Lato Napoli, 1 phone +39 0771 7791 Dr. Marcello Piccirillo: This is the main hospital in the area. Via Fratelli Bandiera,7 phone +39 0771 465967 Casa del Sole Clinic: Via Giuseppe Paone Dr. Enzo Materese: S. Remigio. B, 58 Via Piave, 5 phone +39 0771 324901 phone +39 0771 463000 www.casadelsole.it This is a private Clinic with many specialists and a laboratory for analysis. DENTAL TECHNICIANS There is a Cotral bus stop Dr. R. Striano e Dr. O. La Brocca: in front of the clinic. Lungomare Caboto, 74 (Gaeta-Formia line) phone +39 0771 470855

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- 28 - - 29 - OSTEOPATH Miao-Bau: Dr. Daniele Paone: Via Indipendenza, 100 Via Monte Grappa 2 [email protected] phone +39 0771 461291 Dr. Antonio Siniscalco: NEWSTANDS Via Papa Giovanni XXIII There are two newstands near the marina. phone +39 335 1003288 They are both in Piazza delle Libertà in the main square. VETERINARIANS (some English speaking) GAETA INTERNATIONAL - NEWSPAPER Dr. Alemanno D.ssa La Selva: MAGAZINES - BOOKS Corso Cavour 108 phone +39 0771 740681 Alges: Via Bonomo, 63 FORMIA Turn right outside of the marina entrance, Dr. Sandro Valerio: walk to gas station (left side of the street) Largo Paone the shop is right behind it. There is a book phone +39 +0771 770895 stand outside the store, and he sometimes Dr. S. Locascio: carries the International New York Times. Porto Caposele, 5 phone +39 0771 770895 Salvatore: They also have a beauty shop for dogs. Piazza Traniello (Old Gaeta) Sometimes carries the International New PET SHOPS YorkTimes, and British magazines Acquario: Corso Cavour, 76. STATIONERY - PHOTOCOPY phone +39 0771 460196 DIGITAL PRINTING - COMPUTER Cani e gatti: Tech: Corso Italia, 66 Piazza della Liberta’, 24 / 28 / 29 phone +39 0771 452286 phone +39 0771 460880

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- 30 - Here you can find office technical supplies. FILM DEVELOPING Speak to Benedetto or Genny. You can also make quality color photo cop- Silvano: ies, typographical work and binding of doc- In front of the marina entrance. uments etc. Via Buonomo, 35 They also do laser cut decals for tenders/ phone +39 0771 466382 dinghies, or for other uses. Ottica Look: Type Studio: Very close to the Marina. Via San Nilo, 29 Via Indipendenza, 67 phone +39 0771 744475 phone +39 0771 452022 e-mail: [email protected] This is a film developing and optical store. Computer-graphics and digital printing. Ilaria and Andrea will help you. ITALIAN LESSONS CRT PC Computer: Via F.lli Bandiera 30 Larissa’s Languages: phone +39 3899414045 Piazza Calegna, 5 They repair computers, cellphones, tablets, phone +39 0771 462515 and provide assistance with software prob- At Larissa’s Languages you can learn about lems. Located behind the Ariston Theatre. the Italian language and culture through an innovative method which combines real SohoNYC APPLE Solutions: life and technology. She organizes individ- Piazza Mattei, 26 Formia ual or group lessons. phone +39 0771 900433 Stefano Tibaldi speaks very good english, and sells, repairs, MOVIE THEATRE and gives private lessons All movies are dubbed in Italian for all things Mac. NO SUBTITLES. Located right behind the bus stop The local theatre is located of Piazza Mattei in Formia. in Piazza della Liberta’, 19, Has unusual hours due to family and is called Cinema Ariston. so if urgent it’s best to call first. www.aristongaeta.it

WELCOME TO GAETA WELCOME TO GAETA

- 30 - - 31 - Phone +39 0771 460214. Hotel Mirasole International: *For English language films in Rome see: Via Firenze, 5 http://rome.angloinfo.com/af/251/rome- phone +39 0771 742021 movies-cinemas-and-films.html www.mirasoleinternational.com This hotel is located not too far from the Marina, on the slopes of the Monte Orlan- CONCERTS do Natural Park, and very close to Serapo beach. It has an outdoor swimming pool. The Local Music Association “Associazione San Giovanni a Mare”, organizes concerts during Villa Irlanda: the winter in different churches in Gaeta. The Lungomare Caboto, 6 program is at the local tourist office. phone +39 0771 712581 www.villairlanda.com Formerly an Irish convent, this recently re- HOTELS AND BED & BREAKFASTS stored hotel offers a beautiful view of the Gulf. Although it is not as close to the Mari- na, it is one of the finest hotels and restau- HOTELS: rants the area has to offer. Thus, we strongly Gajeta Hotel Residence: suggest that you make reservations. Lungomare Caboto, 624 phone +39 0771 45081 Grand’Hotel Le Rocce: www.gajetahotel.it Via Flacca Km 23,300 This is a glorious historical building locat- phone +39 0771 740985 ed at the entrance of the medieval town of www.lerocce.com Gaeta - in front of the Navy Base This beautiful property is nestled in a se- cluded inlet, surrounded with lush vegeta- Hotel Serapo: tion, and is the ideal place for a romantic Via Firenze hideway, or to spend a pleasant and relax- phone +39 0771 450037 ing holiday. It is closed in the winter. www.hotelserapo.com This hotel is located not too far from the Hotel Flamingo: Marina, on the slopes of the Monte Orlando Corso Italia, 109 Natural Park, and very close to Serapo beach. phone +39 0771 740738 There is an indoor pool and gymnasium. Swimming pool and gym equipment on site.

WELCOME TO GAETA

- 32 - BED AND BREAKFASTS: RESTAURANTS Il Quartuccio: Via Indipendenza 244-246 Marina Restaurant phone +39 0771 452434 This is the Marina’s restaurant, which is lo- www.ilquartuccio.it cated on the office side, in front of the har- Is located in the heart of the town of Gae- bor gas station. Phone +39 0771 462037 ta, in the characteristic narrow streets of Closed until spring 2016. the historic village of Porto Salvo, just a few steps from the seafront, and a short Cellar Door: walk from the marina. Housed in a nine- Via Europa, 49 teenth-century historic building, and com- phone +39 0771 901286 pletely restored in accordance with the ar- Cell +39 380 1893651 chitectural features of the village. Very close to the marina. Excellent rating in top 5 in Gaeta consis- Villa Fantasia: tently. Great steaks, and variety of dishes Via Roma ,96 all made well. Wonderful atmosphere. Res- phone + 39 0771 464743 ervations best. Special menu nights with modest fixed prices. www.villafantasia.it Closed Mondays and Tuesdays. This bed and breakfast is open from March to October and is located very close to La Tana di Cagliostro: Serapo beach. Vico 3 G. Buonomo, 10 phone +39 338 7919626 La Torretta: Very close to the marina in the “Vico” to the Via IV Novembre left of the Illiano Fish Shop. phone +39 320 2617281 They have a wonderful fixed menu at a www.latorrettagaeta.com very reasonable price, and reservations are This bed and breakfast is open from March obligatory. to December and is located very close the Enza doesn’t always answer the phone, so marina. You can speak to Antonio for more perhaps you’ll have to insist, but it’s worth it! Seafood based. information.

WELCOME TO GAETA WELCOME TO GAETA

- 32 - - 33 - La Rete: La Taverna di Mino: Via Indipendenza,145 Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, 10, phone +39 0771 462959 phone +39 339 7355494 Wonderful restaurant and pizzeria, with Very good steak and Iberic dishes. Live mu- very good local traditional dishes. Still run sic or live DJ on some nights so if you want by the same family since 1961. Open for quiet, best to go early. Very nice tavern at- lunch, except for pizza. Closed Mondays. mosphere with great steaks, and cooked as requested. Castello di Saida: Open every day for dinner, and for lunch Piazza Mare del Arco, 4 from Thursday-Sunday. phone +39 339 8965755 This is very close to the marina, and al- La Lampara: though it’s not in the best location, once Via Buonomo, 29 you’re inside things change. This is really phone +39 0771 463751 the only true ethnic restaurant in town. Pizzeria and various local dishes. Across Libanese, and of excellent quality. from the marina. Closed Wednesdays. Closed Wednesdays.

Atratino: RESTAURANTS IN OLD GAETA Via Atratina, 141 To get to Old Gaeta, take the bus near the phone +39 0771 462870 marina, across the street from the Triestina Family run pizzeria and various local dishes. Bar (Piazza Roma) Get off at the bus stop in Very creative fresh seafood menu, but also Piazza Traniello in the old part of Gaeta. meat and vegetarian selections. They also Otherwise, it is only a very pleasant 10 minute have a celiac menu. Skip Saturdays, as it’s walk from the Marina along the waterfront. “family and kids” night out. Closed Wednesdays. Emilio: Via Annunziata, 72 Mandracchio: phone +39 0771 463149 Lungomare Caboto, 570 Popular pizzeria. They also have “Crostini” phone +39 0771 462690 with broccoletti and mozzarella, ham or Very good pizzeria with local traditional with mushrooms. dishes. Closed Wednesdays. Closed Thursdays.

WELCOME TO GAETA

- 34 - ll Follaro D’Oro: La Cantina di Ciccillo Lungomare Caboto , 624 Vico Gaetani, 22 (Via Docibile) (In front the Navy Base) phone +39 0771 740749 Phone +39 0771 189420 Wonderful atmosphere, enoteca and Traditional local and international dishes. restaurant with an interesting menu. Reservations preferred. Closed Tuesday and Wednesdays. Closed Wednesdays.

Masaniello: La Macelleria: Piazza Commestibili, 6 Via Duomo, 16/18 phone +39 0771 462296 phone +39 0771 452476 Traditional food. Reservations preferred. This restaurant was a butcher shop that has Closed Mondays. been nicely rennovated. Reservations accepted. Le Sorelle Cannolicchio: Open every day. Piazza Conca, 1

phone +39 0771 901906 Nari’: Pleasant atmosphere with traditional fare. Via Duomo 15

Re Ferdinando II: phone +39 0771 463094 Via Faustina, 18 Traditional dishes. Very casual atmosphere phone +39 0771 464125 and simple, but satisfying menu. Pizzeria and restaurant with traditional Closed Mondays. dishes. Closed Tuesdays. Kasa Incanto: Via Bausan,20 La Cocina di Popolla: phone +39 0771 465480 Piazza Cardinal De Vio , 7 This is a very nice bistro and restaurant . phone +39 0771 741818 Very good aperitif. The restaurant has lim- cell +39 347 6075086 Very pleasant atmosphere, a nice selection ited but good menu. After-dinner it is pos- of fresh and interesting dishes. sible to enjoy good music. WI Fi connection. Open every day. Open every day.

WELCOME TO GAETA WELCOME TO GAETA

- 34 - - 35 - Osteria Il Ritrovo: TAKE OUT FOOD Via Duomo, 20 / 22 phone +39 338865110 Usually at a “rosticceria”, particular dishes are Small pleasant restaurant, famed for it’s at- served. Potato croquettes: crocchette di patate tention to cleanliness and service. Rice balls with cheese: suppli’, or arancini di riso. Great seafood and baccala’ is a specialty, Roasted chicken: pollo arrosto along with raves on the fried calamari. Closed Mondays. Pizzeria Rustica: Piazza Roma, 33 Mediterraneo: Very close to the marina. Very good pan Via Bausan,42 pizza by the slice. phone +39 0771 461212 Roberto speaks a little English. Very pleasant atmosphere, small selection of dishes made well. Pizzeria 2000: Reservations preferred. Corso Cavour, 36 Closed only Monday and Thursdays at phone +39 0771 464611 lunch time. Very good tiella, a local favorite. Also good pan pizza by the slice. Antico Vico: Vico II del Cavallo Da Franco: phone +39 0771 465 116 Via Fratelli Bandiera,20 Refined atmosphere in a frescoed dining phone +39 0771 462580 area, where local figures are represented in Very good Roasted Chicken. On sunday morn- the opera. Menu is chef quality, and though ings, if you make a reservation the day before expensive, a very unique experience. reser- you can have “lasagna” or “cannelloni”: fresh vation required. pasta filled with a meat sauce and cheese. Closed Wednesdays. TAKE OUT FOOD IN OLD GAETA Le Sale della Regina: La Pizzeria del Porto: Vico II del Cavallo Via Bausan, 40 - In front old port phone +39 0771 462420 phone + 39 0771 460067 Very nice location. Pizzeria and traditional Ask Carlo for the best “tiella”of the day. food. Open every day for dinner. Very good pizza as well.

WELCOME TO GAETA

- 36 - Mare Fritto: by a Dutch/Italian family. Great selection of Very good fried sea food, casual atmosphere. beers, sandwiches on homemade bread, and Piazza del Pesce, 9 wonderful oven fries. Maurizio offers great music, with a casual but upbeat atmosphere. English speaking. Local favorite. BARS / PUBS Closed Thursdays.

Hermes: BAR/PUBS IN OLD GAETA Right across from the marina to the right. Radio Bottega: phone +39 0771 462888 Piazza Cavallo 20 Excellent hot sandwiches, burgers and phone +39 0771 461668 fries, American style. Cold beer, good and Young atmosphere, excellent music and cappucino, and very good gelati. Famous wines. good for appetizers. You won’t need Cheesecake with wild fruit topping. Take to have dinner after... out available with advance notice. Outdoor Open every day. seating in summer. Local favorite. Closed Mondays. Lupo di Mare: Via Bausan, 6/8 Platani: phone + 39 0771 465559 Right across from the marina to the left. Very nice location by the old port. After this Phone +39 0771 460048 rock and roll atmosphere you may prefer to Aperitivo with good antipasti and great dine in one of the nearby restaurants. wines by the glass. Peppe organizes eve- Closed in January. nings of live music, sporting event viewing, and offers free WiFi. In the morning, Anna Rendez Vous: has cornetti filled with homemade pastry Lungo Mare Caboto Giovanni 650/651 crème. A cruisers’ favorite. phone +39 0771 460085. Closed Mondays. Close to the marina, in front of the Military Harbor . It is an American Pub with very The Dutch: good sandwiches. English speaking Alessia Via Independenza, 24 and Simona will help you. Reservation is re- phone +39 0771 460683 quested. WI Fi connection. This is a classic American style tavern/bar run Closed Mondays.

WELCOME TO GAETA WELCOME TO GAETA

- 36 - - 37 - Birreria dell’Arco: you can find everything from fruits and Piazza Traniello,12 vegetables, to shoes and clothing at very phone +39 0771 463126 reasonable prices. Fruit, vegetables, house- If you wish to watch a TV program or Soc- wares, shoes, and some clothing are at the cer match you can enjoy food and televi- western end of Corso Cavour, while fabric sion, with a good selection of beers and and clothing are on Corso Italia. cocktails. Closed Wednesdays. FORMIA On Thursday mornings the weekly market BARS IN OLD GAETA moves to Formia and is much larger than Bar Bazzanti: the one in Gaeta. It is held from 8:00 am to Piazza Traniello, 3 2:00 pm. phone +39 0771 460505 This is one of the oldest bars in town. It is SPERLONGA a family run business, and Alfredo, Rita, Bar- Here the market is held on Saturday morn- bara, Cristiana and Massimo are very helpful. ings in the main square in the old town. If you take a walk to Old Gaeta, make a stop here for a good cappuccino. They offer a FONDI small or large cappuccino, and it’s one of the The only market open Sunday mornings is best cappuccinos of the Gulf. in Fondi, which can be reached by train or bus. In Fondi all the stores are open as well La Francese : on Sunday mornings. Via Bausan,14 phone +39 0771 462969 Very nice location on the waterfront. A large SUPERMARKETS / selection of teas, wines, beers, and cocktails. GAETA FOOD SHOPS

SUPERMARKETS MARKETS Carrefour express: Via Mazzini,28 GAETA phone +39 0771742226 Every Wednesday morning from 8:00 am to This supermarket is located close to the old 1:00 p.m., there is the local market where train station (see map), and very close to

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- 38 - the local market held on Wednesdays. This Soft Discount: supermarket might deliver to your boat. Via Indipendenza, 445 Ask Mario and he will help you. They have This store is at the end of Via Indipendenza a small section of organic foods. Open Sun- (towards Formia), close to the Piazza Caleg- day mornings. na area.

Conad: MD Discount: Via del Piano,2 Via Unità d’Italia This supermarket is located in the large This store is located on the way to Formia parking lot close to the old train station in right after the turn off for Vindiccio. On the Piazza Mazzini (see map). This supermarket left side heading toward Formia from Gaeta, might deliver to your boat. the sign is hidden a bit by the trees. Good selection, and in house brand is upscale. Sigma: Corso Cavour, 53 This store is at the end of Gaeta’s Main FROZEN FOODS street Corso Cavour, at the intersection with All the supermarkets also have a frozen Via Mazzini. They have a very good home food section. made bread (pane casareccio). Seafish: DISCOUNT SUPERMARKETS Lungomare Caboto, 412 These supermarkets do not carry brand- They carry fish and a good selection of veg- name products, but the prices are much etables and pasta. Excellent “sfogliatelle” lower than usual. The quality is adequate. typical Napolitan pastry.

Todis: Lungomare Caboto 96 FISH MONGERS (Pescheria) This store is pretty far from the marina. It’s on the Lungomare Caboto heading Market: to Formia, near the commercial harbour. There is a local fish market held every day. Many products are very good, such as: fro- Turn right outside the Marina entrance and zen mushrooms, and fresh pasta, as well walk about 1/4 mile. The fish market will be some organic foods. on your left.

WELCOME TO GAETA WELCOME TO GAETA

- 38 - - 39 - It’s open every day, from 6:00 pm to 8:00 Excellent butcher very close to the mari- pm. Take your camera! na, where most locals go. (Always a good The fishing boats arrive around 4:30- sign...)They sell both corn fed and grain 5:00pm and sometimes you can buy di- fed chickens. They also prepare great meat- rectly from them right on the dock. balls, mixed skewers, and other fresh, ready to make options. Iliano Pesca: Directly across the street from the marina. They are serviced by the small local BAKERIES (Fornaio) fishermen, so ask Franco “what’s today’s catch”. They also prepare fileted anchovies, Gaeta’s local savory torte is called “Tiella” cleaned squid, and octopus for easy prepa- and is available at all bakeries. This savory ration. They have farm raised fish, as well as pie can be purchased with various fillings open water catch. Also, all of their clams such as zucchini and cheese, broccoli rabe and mussels are expurgated already, so and sausage, chard with olives, baby squid, they are clean and ready to cook. Mussels octopus, mussels, onions, etc. you can pur- are from their own farms in the Gulf. chase a slice or a whole pie. “I would like a slice of squid tiella. / Vorrei una fetta di tiella di calamaretti” BUTCHER SHOPS (Macelleria) Octopus: polipo Mussels: cozze In all of the Supermarkets, you will find Onions: cipolle a butcher section, but visiting the local Chard with olives: bietole e olive butcher shops is an experience in itself. Zucchini and cheese: zucchini e formaggio Broccoli Rabe/Sausage: broccoletti e salsiccia. Da Natalino: Via Indipendenza,16 The bakeries also sell delicious local cook- phone +39 0771 460 515 ies such as Tozzetti, Taralli and many more. Very close to the marina. At Christmas time they make holiday cookies such as Roccocò, Mostaccioli and Boutique della Carne: Susamielli. Via Indipendenza, 58 For Easter they make the Tortano di Pasqua phone +39 0771 901031 and Pastiera.

WELCOME TO GAETA

- 40 - All of the bakeries offer a wide selection of L’Arte del Pane di Arciuli: bread, such as: Piazza della Liberta’, • Pane casareccio: bread cooked in the at the corner in front of the marina. wood burning oven. This bread will stay This wonderful bakery has all sorts of interest- fresh even if kept for over a week. ing new entries. Baguettes, breads made with • Pane del nonno: a soft bread whole grains, farro, kamut, riso, soia, and with- • Sfilatino: very common white elongated out yeast. They also have tiella and pizza*. bread like a baguette in consistancy *Francesco Arciuli is known as one of the best “piz- • Pane all’olio: bread made with olive oil zaioli” in the area for pizza and tiella. • Ciabatta: between sfilatino and casareccio in consistency Forno De Conca: • Grissini: crunchy bread sticks Lungomare Caboto, 640 • Fresella: is a crunchy bread that you can phone +39 0771 460651 keep on board for a few months. Close to the Navy Base. It is very good and easy to make wonder- They have special “tozzetti con le mandorle”. ful salads, such as “Panzanella Napoleta- If you are looking for bread without yeast na” in the recipe section. they make it once a week.

In most of the bakeries you can buy “pasta Forno Dolc&Pane: lievitata” - flour with yeast, water and oil to Via Calegna,1 make homemade “pizza napoletana”. phone +39 0771 712107 “Vorrei un chilo di pasta lievitata” / I would This bakery sells gluten free bread like 1 kg. of raised dough. They also have a good Pan di Spagna, a With 1 kg of pasta lievitata you can make wonderful base to make the “Mimosa” cake 3 big pizzas. See “Pizza Napoletana” in the in the recipe section recipe section.

Forno Giordano: FRESH PASTA (Pasta fresca) Via Indipendenza, 39 Pasta Fresca: phone +39 0771 460603. Piazza Mazzoccolo, Vico, 1. This Forno has been open since 1890, and Make a right turn outside the marina en- hosts a large selection of tielle, bread, and trance, walk to the first square (on left side very good Pane del Nonno (a very soft bread). of the street).

WELCOME TO GAETA WELCOME TO GAETA

- 40 - - 41 - Next to the Pharmacy, it’s a small store with really is made from buffalo milk) Should a yellow sign (Pasta Fresca all’Uovo). There NOT be refrigerated when fresh, but eaten are several different kinds of fresh ravioli within the day! But if you need to refriger- with various fillings such as: spinach and ate, there’s a trick before serving. Place the ricotta, mozzarella and ham, brasato, and mozzarella in the package in hot water for various cheeses. They also make the tiny 15//20 minutes before serving. Helps to cappelletti to cook in fresh broth, as well restore a bit of the “creaminess, but cer- as tagliatelle. Fresh Melanzane Parmigiano, tainly not the same as fresh with no fridge! and Lasagne can be ordered in advance. • Nodini di mozzarella: mozzarella di bu- They are open on Sunday mornings. fala with a knot shape. Also in “porzioni” The store can also be reached from Via In- which are 125gr single portions in classic dependenza, just look for their yellow sign. balls or “bocconcini” which are the cherry size version. • Mozzarella di mucca: it is a cow’s milk DELICATESSEN mozzarella, with a light taste • Fior di latte: very light, can be used to I Tesori del Gusto: cook with. Corso Cavour, 84. • Treccia di mozzarella: a bufala or fior di They have a very good selection of Italian latte mozzarella with a braided shape. A gastronomy. They sell the best rated pas- large one (up to 1 Kg) can be made for a tas in Italy, as well as the best rice, balsamic special occasion. vinegar, cheeses, wines, and lots more. Very Make a reservation a few days in advance high quality. They also sell wine by the liter if you need ½ kg portions of any of these. at a good price.

Alimentari Mary: MOZZARELLA CHEESE across the street from the marina to the right of Hermes In this area we have different kinds of phone +39 347 6546240 mozzarella: Good mozzarella di bufala delivered both • Mozzarella di bufala: very tasty, the morning and afternoon. southern Lazio and Campania Regions are Open from 6:30am the only areas where you can find it. (This with very good casareccio bread by Luigi,

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- 42 - both white and multi grain at 8am. Good VEGETABLE STANDS parma ham and other coldcuts, Gaeta olives, and tiellas. On Via Indipendenza there are many vege- Mary caters to cruisers and will deliver to table stands, and most of them sell home- your boat. Open Sunday mornings grown products. and holiday mornings. Many supermarkets also have fruit and vegetable sections, but seeing we are in Santa Rosa: the middle of a rich agricultural region, it’s Via Indipendenza, 72 best to buy from the locals. Via Mazzini ,18 phone +39 0771 464 214 Regina: Good mozzarella di bufala fresh from their At the entrance of Via Indipendenza (Pi- farm. They also have a very good “Casarec- azza Roma side), you will find Regina and cio bread” from Esperia, which can only be Peppe’s stand, on the right side under an found in the morning. They are open Sun- arch. They have a fine selection of produce day mornings. that they cultivate. Regina prepares interesting vegetables under oil, and will pre- La Salicella: pare fresh minestrone veggies already to Via Indipendenza, 32 cook, if you ask in advance. They also sell It carries very good ricotta. inexpensive wine by the liter. Lo Spuntino: Lungomare Caboto, 558. Vaudo: Open on Sunday mornings. A little way down at Via Independenza 45, you will find another really good fruit and vegetable man that is nice, helpful, and will GAETA’S OLIVES sell you one pear if that’s what you need. Giuseppe has fresh fruit and produce, and Gaeta’s black olives are famous all over the also carries non treated lemons. world, and can be found in all of the food You’ll see much of this displayed on the stores, “alimentari” and supermarkets. street in front of the store, but if you don’t There is a difference in quality so try a few see what you need just ask, as the total to see which ones you like the best. store area is quite large inside.

WELCOME TO GAETA WELCOME TO GAETA

- 42 - - 43 - ORGANIC FOOD / Le Buone Erbe: HERBALIST SHOPS Via Indipendenza, 157 This is an herbalist store, where you can find La Bottega della Natura: natural cosmetics, natural remedies and teas. Via Papa Giovanni XXIII, 16 phone +39 0771 452376 This store sells only organic food and veg- ICE CREAM SHOPS (Gelateria) etables, cereals, and flour as well. You can also find organic beauty products. Tutti Gusti: Piazza della Liberta’, 22 Carrefour express: Gaeta’s main square, and very close to the Via Mazzini,28 marina, excellent ice cream and also the phone +39 0771 742226 gluten-free options that are as good as the There is a small selection of organic vegeta- cream versions. Only open from spring to bles, milk and spaghetti. early fall.

Conad: La Triestina: Via del Piano, 2 Piazza Roma There is a small selection of organic vegeta- Gaeta’s main square, and very close to the bles, milk and spaghetti. Marina, they make good ice cream and “granita di caffè con panna”. Melusina: Piazza Cardinal de Vio (Old Gaeta) Bar Platani: This is an herbalist store, where you can Lungomare Caboto, 612 find a small selection of legumes, spaghetti phone +39 0771 460048 and cereals. Paola is very helpful. Very close to the Marina to the left. Anna makes very good ice cream, and in the Erboristeria: morning offers very good croissants filled Via Europa,18 with homemade cream. phone +39 0771 744022 This is an herbalist store, where you can Il Pinguino: find a good selection of legumes, spaghetti Piazza Traniello - Old Gaeta and cereals. Locally famous for its quality ice cream.

WELCOME TO GAETA

- 44 - Il Molo: Carmine: Piazza del Pesce - Old Gaeta Via Calegna, 47 - 49 (Laboratory) and Via Very close to the Capitaneria di Porto, and Rimini ,13 famous for its quality ice cream. phone +39 0771 740165 The fruit filled with ice cream “frutta ripiena If you like dark chocolate, suggest trying di gelato” are both beautiful and good! the “Torta Paradiso”. Also, the torta “Riviera di Ulysses” is exceptional, but it must be ordered ahead of time. PASTRY SHOPS (Pasticceria) Lanzetta: Stenta: Via Fratelli Bandiera, 22 Via Mazzini, 7 They make a very good lemon cake, and This pastry shop and coffee bar is located Baba’ as well. at the end of Corso Cavour on the left side, Scalesse: and its specialities are the “Pallaciotta” cake Via Indipendenza, 96 or pastry, and “Lemon Cake”. Not far from the marina. Various pastries Try the good selection of “Mignon”, the very and cakes. Their “Dolcetti di pasta di man- small pastries “pasticcini”, and the wonder- dorle” (almond cookies) are very good. ful cassata siciliana. They are quite well known locally, and at holiday time they are filled with the festive COFFEE / CANDY STORE (Torrefazione) classics. Cafe’ Santos: Diamante: Via Indipendenza, 80 Directly in front of the marina phone +39 0771 460187. Franco and Gina have good classic pastries They have a nice selection of coffees to grind, including sfogliatella, fabulous baba, and or buy in beans. They also carry fine Italian many others, all made fresh daily. chocolates, as well as a vast selection of can- They also make chocolates, marzipan, and dy by the ounce. cookies on site as well. Recently they’ve added on, and now carry There is a small cafe’ to enjoy pastries with high quality food gift items, wines, as well a cappuccino. as everything you may need for pastry

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- 44 - - 45 - decorating! This is very new to Gaeta. Medea: They also run the cafe’ by the same name Via Napoli, 1 across the street, where they make very good phone +39 0771 462174 espresso with Neapolitan style machines. Patrizia is very helpful. Reservation is required. Closed Mondays. OTHER SHOPS AND SERVICES IN AND AROUND GAETA HAIRDRESSERS (Parrucchiere)

Simone: BEAUTY SHOPS (hairdresser and beauty shop) (Estetista) Via Cavour, 24 phone +39 0771 462941 Nave di Serapo: Simone and Dina are hairdressers special- Via Marina di Serapo, 25 ized in cutting and color, with the use of phone +39 346 6283686 Henna instead of dyes for your color base Fabiola and Roberta do esthetic treatments if preferred. and massages. Simone is great at advanced hair styling, as Manicures, pedicures, waxing, to deep fa- well as simple cuts to perfection. cial cleansing. During the weekend, reservations are re- A very comforting atmosphere. quested. Open 9:00 - 18:00 daily Maurart: except Tuesday and Sunday (hairdresser and beauty shop) Summer hours: 9:00 - 20:00 daily Corso Cavour, 2 Reservation requested. phone +39 0771 741697 Mauro is a hair stylist that specializes in the Eidos: latest trends, both in cut and color. Via Mazzini, 29 (on the first floor) - Reservation requested. phone +39 0771 464253. Very good and reasonably priced mani- Gianni: cures, pedicures, waxing. Wonderful for a Via Mazzini, 24 (on the first floor) day of pampering! Reservation is required. phone +39 0771 464180 Closed Mondays. Reservation requested.

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- 46 - Fausto e Livia: Maria Chinappi: Via Mazzini, 9 Lungomare Caboto, 542 phone +39 0771 460360 phone +39 0771 464400 They also have a Cosmetic and Perfume Seemingly small store on the block after store featuring high quality products and Colozzo (look for ladders, rolls of fencing a Boutique annexed. Ask for Angelo if you outside), but well stocked, and Antonio is need suggestions on make up products. very helpful. They have a variety of sandpa- *Note: Hairdressers are closed on Mondays. pers, marine varnishes, and marine articles. He also makes keys.

BARBERS (Barbiere) Vaudo: All of the below are very close to the marina. Piazza della Libertà, 4 Phone: +39 0771 450042 Hair Stylist Alberto In front of the marina above the main piaz- via F.lli Bandiera, 26 za to the left of the chinese store. Electrical Acconciature Maschili supplies, and also various hardware store Benedetto & Ciccio items. Serves professionals, so they have Piazza Roma some good supplies.

Lino Coiffeur per Uomo Elettra: Piazza XIX Maggio, 6 Piazza Della Liberta’, 12/13 In front of the marina above the main piazza to the right of the chinese store. HARDWARE STORES - LOCKSMITHS (Ferramenta) Electrical supplies of all types, including 12V Magazzini Colozzo: LED lighting. Serves professionals, so they Lungomare Caboto, 564 are well equipped for electrical supplies. phone +39 0771 462763 This is a housewares and hardware “ferra- *For electronic components refer to Kosmo menta”store. The hardware is in the back of the store, and if you don’t see what you need, Fasano: ask. There is a rather large storeroom. They Via Calegna, 31 sell Italian made tempered glassware in the phone +39 0771 471390 housewares area in the middle of the store. This is a small hardware store.

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- 46 - - 47 - BEDDING / MATERASSES / ACCESSORIES PROPANE (Propano)

Treglia Bianco Casa: Agip Gas: Via E. Filiberto,1/7/13 - Formia Via Indipendenza, 242 phone +39 0771 22578 phone +39 0771 460206 Custom mattresses and toppers in Tempur They can fill American fitted gas cylinders, or in house brand memory foam. but allow them a few days. Custom sheets and blankets as well as Camping Gas tanks can usually be changed stock sizes. out if they have them in stock. Vast assortment of bedding and accessories on lower floor after baby dept.

FRAMING (Cornici)

TELEVISION / STEREO / ELECTRONIC ASSISTANCE Giampaolo Idile: Corso Cavour, 42 Kosmo Elettronica: phone +39 0771 460 424 Via Papa Giovanni XXIII, 4 In addition to a wide range of frames, this phone +39 0771 464649 store also sells antique prints. They have television, stereo, and video accessories, as well as a vast array of electronic Stefano: components such as diodes, condensers, etc. Via XXIV Maggio, 6 Cosmo speaks English. Stefano and Veronique are very helpful. VODAFONE cellular.

Video In: Lungomare Caboto, 544 SHOE REPAIR (Calzolaio) phone +39 0771 451002. Tonino: They have television, stereo, Piazza S.Giacamo far left corner and video accessories. Open Tue - Sat from 4PM to 7PM only TIM cellular. Closed Mondays

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- 48 - WATCH REPAIRS (Orologiai) JEWELERS (Gioielleria)

Cassano: Valerio: Piazza della Libertà, 43 Lungomare Caboto, 554 Very close to the Marina. They have fine silver, Sheffield, and a porce- This is a small jewelry and watch repair lain section. Massimo and Fabrizio are very store. Rino is very helpful. helpful.

Paone: Silvio Gattola: Corso Attico, 5 Corso Cavour, 24/C In front of the marina entrance. Close to the Farmacia Centrale in the gal- Mr. Erasmo and his wife will help you. lery. This is a small jewelry and watch repair store. You can find all types of watch batter- ies. Silvio is very helpful. FABRIC SHOPS The only place where you can find good fabric in Gaeta, is on Wednesday mornings EYEGLASS STORES (Ottica) at the market. There are several stands at the corner of Via Venezia and Corso Italia Cassano: which sell very high-quality fabrics. Corso Cavour, 27 phone +39 0771 462477 FORMIA

Treglia: Ottica Look: Via E. Filiberto 1/7/13 phone +39 0771 464701 phone +39 0771 22578. Via Europa, 22 This store is close to Formia’s Hospital, and Via Indipendenza, 167 is 500m from the Orlandi department store. They have two stores, with a very good They have high quality fabrics, table cloths, selection of the best brand names in towels, etc. In one part of the store they eyewear. also have discounted items - usually in the Bruno and Anna speak English. basement.

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- 48 - - 49 - EMBROIDERY Lisa Tibaldi Couture: Wednesday at the market, on Corso Italia, Largo Giordano, 9 there is a well stocked embroidery stand. San Cosma e Damiano phone +39 0771 608440 Il filo d’Arianna: www.lisatibaldi.com Via Indipendenza, 27 Womens formal dresses They have DMC threads and wool of very good quality. They also make handmade This Italian trade brand has been run by sweaters of all types at very fair prices, but Lisa and her family for the past 20 years. they take time. Well worth the wait so or- She offers a large collection of elegant and der early. formal dresses and gowns. She is very well known on the international scene.

BATHING SUITS WOMENS CUSTOM MADE Svago: & READY TO WEAR CLOTHING Via Indipendenza,91 They make bathing suits with fabrics of SPERLONGA your choice all year around. Facili Costumi: In a little alley by the main square in old

DRESS MAKER/SEAMTRESS Sperlonga, Letizia makes nice summer dresses, and in the winter beautiful wool L’Arte del Cucito: sweaters and dresses. Piazza Mazzoccolo, 13/A phone +39 320 9526126 SHIATZU They can repair, hem, and alter clothing or Melusina: small household items. Ask for Tina. Piazza Cardinal De Vio (Old Gaeta) phone +39 0771 452428 cell 347 3458427. Non Solo Cucito If you wish to have a shiatsu massage, call Corso Cavour, 39 and make an appointment with Paola. She phone +39 3416597031 [email protected] speaks a little English.

WELCOME TO GAETA

- 50 - YOGA GYMS (Palestra)

Raffaella Corte EOS: phone +39 347 1812607 Via Livorno, 17 [email protected] phone +39 0771 741082 Offers various options at different times of Aerobics, step, funk, and body building. year. Contact Raffaella for the current program. These may include yoga in the park Palestra Athena: at Parco Riviere d’Ulisse, yoga at sunset, Via Atratina, 47 among others. phone +39 348 5609785 Serious gym for working out. Alessandro is a qualified trainer. DANCE LESSONS Centro del Movimento / Blue Gym: Salsa: Via Monte Grappa, 57 Classes are open to all ages, and held close phone +39 0771 461260 to the marina. Fun group. Gym classes with various platforms, martial Classes run from Oct-May arts, personal defense For information contact: Guido +39 392 3860195

PERSONAL JOGGING GUIDE Tango Argentino: Classes are held at Centro del Movimento, Nicola Tarallo: close to the marina. phone +39 340 2518721 Classes run from Oct-May e-mail [email protected] For information contact: In addition to teaching cooking of tradi- Elia +39 347 2638741 tional dishes from Gaeta, he’s an English Popular Dance (Tarantaterapia): speaking personal guide. He organizes Dance and relaxation laboratory. jogging excursions on the trails of the Re- For information contact: gional Park of Monte Orlando, combining Raffaella +39 3471812607 healthy exercise with stories of the history Elizabeth Stacey +39 3922492547 (english speaking) of our area.

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- 50 - - 51 - REGATTA Fontania: This small beach at the far end of Serapo, The Base Nautica Flavio Gioia organizes still offers the visible ruins races throughout the year. Check with the of an ancient Roman Villa. office for the current calendar. Going North within 1km of Gaeta center: Ariana, 300 Scalini, 40 Remi, Arenauta, St. Vito, St. Agostino all of which maintain their TENNIS COURT natural scenic beauty. From Gaeta to Sperlonga there is a 10km Circolo tennis: stretch of coastal beaches separated by Lungomare Caboto, 20 rocky bluffs. (close to the Navy Base) Summer months offer limited access, but phone +39 0771 460741. the winter months are magical... Booking required.

GOLF COURSES SWIMMING POOL Pineta Coppola a Mare: Hotel Serapo: phone +39 0815095150 Via Marina, 7 This Golf course is located on the Pineta phone +39 0771 311003 Coppola beach, between Naples and Gaeta, Indoor swimming pool close to the marina. about 40 minutes by car from Gaeta. If you Check for “open to the public” times, and classes. are interested, please talk to the office staff.

Oasi Golf Club: BEACHES phone +39 06 92746252 email [email protected] Serapo: www.oasigolf.it Between Monte Orlando and Fontania. In This Golf course is an easy 1½ hr. drive the winter the beach is empty just 10 minutes past Latina, and is open of umbrellas, and makes for a beautiful all year round. walking beach. Closed Tuesdays

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- 52 - CERAMIC COURSES CHOCOLATE FACTORY

Marta Bilbao: ITRI phone +39 348 3820143 / 3895184601 Chocolart: Via Santa Lucia, 32 La Valle: phone +39 0771 721030 Via Sant’Agostino http://www.chocolartitri.it/ Phone +39 0771 741706 This is a chocolate factory where they pro- They organize ceramic courses for children duce beautifully wrapped chocolate eggs and adults. in the springtime. During the rest of the It’s also possible to use their oven to bake year, they make nougats, pralines, and many your ceramics every day from 9.00 a.m. to other products that are exported all over 4.00 p.m. except Saturdays. the world. They can deliver to your boat.

SPERLONGA Giulia: Via 1° Orticello, 12 (Sperlonga old town) phone +39 338 9224478 This is a very small studio in a typical alley of the old town, near the main square. They can personalize plates for you.

ITRI Soscia: Via Appia - Itri Ceramics made with brick and stone, Maur- izio Soscia’s studio offers a variety of ceramics and marble sculptures. Maurizio comes from a long tradition in the art of ceramics.

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- 52 - - 53 - SUGGESTED Nature and CUltural itIneraries

The following section of this booklet is dedicated to the history and features of Gaeta, as well as the surrounding areas.

The itineraries and web sites are our recommendations, and we have added historical and modern points of interest that you may find interesting.

Finally, we have also included traditional recipes typical of this area, and we hope that you will find them as delicious as we do!

WELCOME TO GAETA

- 54 - GAETA around a fortified area near the first religious building devoted to Saints Cosma e Monte Orlando Park. The beautiful wood- Damiano (the Saints doctors). It was a small ed hill of Monte Orlando is a protected area settlement of peasants and fishermen. located between Serapo beach and the ancient village of Sant’Erasmo. This is a fascinat- The ancient quarter of Sant’Erasmo ing historical area, and now a nature reserve (Old Gaeta) located on the Latium coast. The hillside is This medieval village of Gaeta has been host covered by Mediterranean shrub such as: to several historic events through the cen- carob trees, aline trees, mirth and lentiscus. turies. It is a location of remarkable artistic Monte Orlando Park is closed to car traffic, so interest. The Cathedral of Saints Erasmo e is a wonderful place to walk, jog, and cycle. Marciano was built in the 10th-11th centu- Monte Orlando also hosts the Sanctuary of ries above the Santa Maria del Parco Church the Holy Trinity located at the “Split-Moun- (7th century). Behind the Cathedral there is tain”. The “Split-Mountain” is caused by a won- the beautiful bell tower (Campanile) from derful natural phenomenon, and is surround- the XII century in Arabic and Roman style, ed by legends of deep religious meaning. and is a wonderful example of medieval art. The Mausoleum of Munazio Planco (a Ro- man Consul 20BC), overlooks the top of De Vio Palace and Diocesan Museum Monte Orlando where there is a stunning Piazza Cardinale De Vio, 7 view of the sea, the Islands of Ischia, Vento- The Palazzo De Vio belonged to Cardinal tene, Ponza, and the promontory of Circeo. Thomas De Vio, who was born in Gaeta The Blue Oasis is a beautiful marine reserve in 1469. Inside the Palace there is the Di- area at the bottom of the Monte Orlando ocesan Museum with a beautiful Gallery hill, with marvelous cliffs for expert climbers, of Paintings featuring excellent works by and amazingly deep waters for scuba diving. artists from Gaeta. Some of these paint- ers are Giovanni da Gaeta (15th century), GAETA HISTORY Scipione Pulzone (14th century), and Se- The seaport village of Gaeta originated bastiano Conca (15th century). You can and developed in the VII century AD on the also admire a wonderful panel painted by slopes of a hill called “Colle dei Cappuccini”, “Scuola Giottesca”, collections of Exultet in a higher position than the coast and the Benedettini (10th and 13th centuries), and surroundings. It was built and developed lovely ceramics of the 15th century. In the

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- 54 - - 55 - Picture Gallery there is the amazing Battle, Church of Annunziata Standard of Lepanto (1536) by Girolamo Via dell’Annunziata and Lungomare Caboto Siciolante, which was the flagship of the This beautiful Church is located along the Papal fleet, commanded by Don Giovanni seafront. It was originally built in 1321, but d’Austria. After he won the Lepanto battle then rebuilt in 1621 by Ferdinand the Cath- on October 7th, 1571, Giovanni D’Austria olic and Charles V. A clock was added in the bestowed the flag to the Gaeta Cathedral. 18th century. The church is attached to the Many important exhibitions are also orga- small Cappellina d’Oro /Golden Chapel or nized there each year. Cappella dell’Immacolata, which is covered Call Center phone: +39 0771 286217 with paintings surrounded by golden frames. Museum Reception phone: +39 0771 4530233 Church of San Domenico Santa Lucia Church Via Aragonese or Saint Mary in Peninsulis Built in late-Gothic style of the 15th century Via Ladislao, 27 with two unequal naves and a large apse. Built in the VII century, it is probably the old- It was actually part of a larger monastery est Church in Gaeta. It was the Royal Chapel overlooking the sea. from 1387, when King Ladislao d’Anjou-Du- razzo (the son of Charles III and King of Sic- Church of S. Maria della Sorresca ily) used to go to pray with his wife, Queen Piazza Traniello Costanza Chiaromonte, and his mother Mar- The Church of “ Nostra Signora di Gaeta”, gherita di Durazzo. The Church was renovat- legend has it, was built on the place where ed between the 12th and 13th centuries. the Madonna appeared in1513. Built on the storehouse of the Albito’s, an important San Giovanni a Mare and noble Family, where they used to keep Via Bausan the “sorra” or “ salt fish”. On the wall there Built by the sea in the 10th century by Jhon was a beautiful painting “Vergine con Bam- IV Duke of Gaeta. It has a peculiar dome in bino” preserved now at the Annunziata In- Arabic style, and a sloping floor to drain the stitute (Via dell’ Annunziata). The antique seawater out when the tide was high. The floor is beautifully done in tile and marble Church was known also as Saint Joseph with the Town’s Coat of Arms. The Church Church because the congregation of car- is no longer consecrated, and it is used for penters used to celebrate Mass there. Musical Events and Art Exhibitions.

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- 56 - Castle Angioino and Aragonese Pinacoteca Giovanni da Gaeta Piazza Castello (High above Old Gaeta) Via De Lieto 2/4 Built between the 9th and the 16th centu- phone 0771 466346 ries, in a strategic location on the sea and email info@pinacotecagiovanni dagaeta.it the surrounding territory, this edifice and This important art gallery is located not too its imposing shape influenced the devel- far from the Angioino Castle. Very important exhibitions are organized during the year . opment of the city’s original nucleus. The For further information visit the website: castle has two connected buildings, built www.pinacotecagiovannidagaeta.it/eventi.htm in two different periods. The lower and the oldest is believed to have been built by The modern Town of “Elena” Frederick II the Swabia in 1229, and added The name comes from the Queen of Italy, onto later by Charles d’Angio’ in the 12th Elena. This side of Gaeta was built on the century, during the French domination. level isthmus of Montesecco and on the The highest is called “Aragonese” built by hills overlooking the Gulf of Gaeta and King and Emperor Charles V in the 16th Serapo beach. It is precisely here that the century. Today, the Angjoino side is man- Base Nautica Flavio Gioia is located. aged by the Cassino University, and the Aragonese side by the Military from the Via Indipendenza Guardia di Finanza. This little street was built in the 7th century as the first Elena Village borough outside the walls of the Old Town. The first inhab- Church of San Francesco itants were fishermen and farmers. Today Via Don Bosco this street is a charming narrow walking The construction of San Francesco was com- lane, lined with many small specialty shops, missioned by Ferdinand II in 1848-49 upon and produce stalls. the request of Pope Pius IX (who had been in exile in Gaeta), and represents an exam- Lucio Sempronio Atratino Masuleum ple of neogothic architecture in Southern On the Atratina hill you’ll find the majestic Italy. This church was built on the location building of elliptical shape, built by Lucius of an old monastery, where San Francesco Sempronius Atratino, consul in 34 BC. It was was believed to have rested during one of looted of it’s beautiful travertine marble and his voyages. marble decorations during the past century.

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- 56 - - 57 - Gaeta

WELCOME TO GAETA

- 58 - Orvieto TERAMO Bolsena Civita di Bagnoregio TERNI

A 1 PESCARA VITERBO Tuscania OUTSIDERIETI L’AQUILA gaeta A 24

A 25 A 24 Civitavecchia A 12 A 1

A 1

San Vincenzo al Volturno Abbey FROSINONE ISERNIA HIGHWAY Sermoneta Casamari Abbey Garden of Ninfa Montecassino Abbey TRAIN STATION LATINA Cassino Nettuno Priverno AIRPORT Anzio Fossanova Abbey CHURCH, ABBEY Fondi Sabaudia Itri Minturno PARK Terracina A 1 Sperlonga Formia MUSEUM S. Felice Circeo Royal Palace Gaeta CASERTA CASTLE

ROYAL PALACE TYRRHENIAN SEA Zannone Palmarola Ponza

Procida Ischia

Ventotene S. Stefano Capri

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- 58 - - 59 - SUGGESTED Nature and CUltural itIneraries OUTSIDE GAETA

WELCOME TO GAETA

- 60 - ITRI that offers a spectacular view. It has a typi- Distance from Gaeta: 11 km - 7 mi cal Mediterranean look. How to get there: by local bus to Formia - departure approx- The historical center is a tangle of alleys, imately every half hour from in front of the stairs, and paths between small, white- marina. Get off at the stop accross from the washed houses. “Casa del Sole” Clinic on the Appian Way. The Villa of Tiberius, of the Roman Emper- Cross the street (in front of the Clinic), and or, was found in the South east side of the take the local bus heading to Itri. town at the beginning of the last century. Today it is an important Archeological Itri is a characteristic town in the Aurunci Museum. In the Grotta of Tiberio several Mountains. The small town has a strategic important Hellenistic statues were found, position between two mountain chains. In such as: Polifemo and Ulysses. The Muse- medieval times it was a mountainous forum* hosts the many Roman artifacts. tress, and its military role was confirmed by Not far from the town, going south on the the features of its 9th century Castle. The Flacca road, you can admire two lookout Castle has three main towers of different towers: Torre Truglia, and Torre Capoven- shapes and four minor towers connected to, which stand as memoirs of sea raids by a watch route. Approximately twelve ki- throughout the centuries. lometers north of Itri, there is the Santuario della Civita. It is located on the top of the *Archeologica Museum: hill, where it is possible to enjoy a beautiful Via Flacca, Km 16,600 phone +39 0771 548028 view of the Pontine islands. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 9:00 am to 7:20 pm Weekly market: Weekly market: Saturdays from 8:00am to 1:00pm Thursday from 8:00am to 1:00pm

FONDI SPERLONGA Distance from Gaeta:13 km - 8 mi. Distance from Gaeta: 12 km - 7.5 mi How to get there: How to get there: by bus - from Piazza Roma, the main square by local bus from Piazza Roma, the main in Gaeta, across from the marina. square in Gaeta, across from the marina. by train - a twelve minute ride heading to- Sperlonga is a little town above the sea ward Rome. (regional train)

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- 60 - - 61 - Fondi is a large agricultural center in con- TERRACINA tact with major European markets. In the Distance from Gaeta: 33 km - 20.5 mi 4th century, when it became a flourishing How to get there: Jewish community, famous for commerce by train - from Formia railway station to in linen and the art of dyeing, it was often Monte San Biagio heading toward Rome. invaded by Barbarians and North Africans. bus or taxi to Terracina (15km). The peak of splendor was achieved during Terracina was formerly called Latin Tarracina the time ruled by the Caetani family. The and Volscian Anxur. In 509 BC Terracina was Castle, with a characteristic round tower dominated by the Romans. The new Appi- standing more than 30 meters, and symbol an Way, built in 312 BC to connect Rome of the town, was built in the 14th century to Capua, made Terracina an important ag- by Onorato I Caetani over a stretch of an- ricultural and commercial town by the sea. cient Roman walls. In the 16th century it It includes a medieval area on top of the hill was the place of Giulia Gonzaga’s court of and a modern town built by the sea, on the literates and artists. Since 1987 it houses Roman ruins. the Museum of the town. The Temple of Jupiter (Giove Anxur) dom- The Cathedral of St. Peter was built in the inates the town at the summit of Monte first half of the 12th century. A medieval St. Angelo. It was built in the I century BC, pageant is held in honor of the Gonzaga and from there you can enjoy a wonderful family every year. The Jewish Ghetto with view of Zannone and Ponza Island, and the its medieval synagogue is very interesting. Circeo promontory. There is a small cafe’ at the top where you can enjoy a coffee or The Palazzo del Principe (“Prince’s Palace”) glass of wine. was built in 1466-1477 by the Catalan ar- The Cathedral of SS Pietro e Cesareo (Duo- chitect Matteo Forcimanya. Its portals, the mo), was consecrated in 1074 and renovated mullioned windows, the court, and the in the 12th and 18th centuries. It has a beau- “loggiato” represent the synthesis of Cata- tiful ” portico” adorned by the mosaics of Si- lan-Gothic architectures. cilian-Norman artists. The brick Campanile All of Fondi’s stores are open on Sunday / Bell Tower is in Gothic-Romanesque style, morning. and it has small columns with little pointed Weekly market: arches and Arabic majolica in the walls. Sunday from 8:00am to 1:00pm The Gothic Palazzo Venditti is to the right of the

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- 62 - Duomo, and was built in the 14th century Very now connected to the mainland by an isth- close it is also the Torre Frumentaria 13th cen- mus. The Templari Tower together with the tury, which now hosts the Museo Pio Capponi Cavalieri House are medieval buildings now - Piazza Municipio,1 - phone +39 0773 707313 housing the town offices.

MONTE SAN BIAGIO THE CIRCEO NATIONAL PARK Distance from Gaeta: 35 km - 21.5 mi The beautiful Circeo Park became a pro- How to get there: tected area in 1934 to preserve the natural by train - from the Formia railway station beautify of the Mediterranean shrub. For heading toward Rome, a twenty minute ride. more information contact Radford Univer- sity. https://php.radford.edu/~swoodwar/ Monte S. Biagio lies on the Appia Way. The biomes/?page_id=98. Romans defeated the Samnite at the Pas- The wonderful environment of the Park is so della Portella, where a fortified gate was full of prehistoric and archeological sites, built. Very close to the “Portella”, on the Ap- such as caves and natural shelters: the Grot- pian Way, you will find the Torre di Epitaffio ta dei Guattari, the Grotta delle Capre, the built in 16th century by the Popes Sisto V Grotta del Fossellone. A skull belonging to and Clemente VIII, to mark the border be- the Neanderthal Man was found in the area tween the Papal State and the Kingdom in the 1939. The Homo Sapiens Habitat of the two Sicilies. You can also admire the Museum is also a very interesting to visit beautiful Mausoleum belonging to the Ro- For further information visit: man Emperor Galba. www.fondazionemarcellozei.com Guided tours of the Park upon request. SAN FELICE CIRCEO Distance from Gaeta: 52 km - 32 mi. SABAUDIA How to get there: Distance from Gaeta: 60 km - 37 mi. by car - take the SS 213 Flacca to Terracina How to get there: and the SS 148 heading toward Rome. by car - take the SS 213 Flacca and the SS The town of San Felice Circeo includes a 148 Pontinia heading toward Rome. medieval area on the top of the hill and a The modern town of Sabaudia was planned modern town by the sea. The hillside cov- and built in the 1930’s according to the ar- ered by Mediterranean shrub (Macchia chitectural style of the time. The Palazzo Mediterranea), was once an island, but is Comunale and the Post Office are of par-

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- 62 - - 63 - ticular interest. There is a beautiful view of small coupled columns) and the Fores- from the sand dunes of amazing houses teria, (Guesthouse) where St. Thomas of from the 1960s. Behind the dunes there is Aquinus died in 1274 are really magnificent. a wildly natural salt lake. SEZZE PRIVERNO Distance from Gaeta: 70 km - 43.5 mi Distance from Gaeta: 63 km - 39 mi How to get there: How to get there: by train - from the Formia railway station by train - from Formia train station heading heading toward Rome. Forty minute ride. toward Rome. Sezze was formerly called Setia around the Priverno was an medieval agricultural town 5th century BC, and it was a Volscian settle- located between the Lepini and the Ausoni ment. It became a Roman colony in 382 BC, Mountains. Although it has pre-roman ori- and flourished for its strategic and commer- gins, most of the buildings in the town are cial position near the Appian Way, which Gothic. The Cathedral has a Gothic “por- was built in 312 BC to connect Rome to the tico”, as does the City Hall building. The S. South. The ruins of the Polygonal Walls from Benedict Church from the 9th century, has the 4th century BC, the Tempio di Saturno, frescoes of different periods. and the Gothic-Cistercian Duomo/Cathedral are the main monuments in Sezze. The Anti- FOSSANOVA ABBEY quarium hosts several prehistoric artifacts, Distance from Gaeta: 63 km - 39 mi medieval documents on parchment, and How to get there: paintings. Some Upper Paleolithic remains by train - from Formia train station heading were found in Sezze Scalo and they include toward Rome. Grotta Iolanda (13,000-18,000 years old), the Riparo Roberto (probably 9,000-10,000 The Abbey was founded by Benedictine years old) with wall graffiti, and the Grotta monks in the 9th century, and it is the first Arnaldo dei Bufali, with a painting on rocks. Italian example of Cistercian-Gothic con- Sezze is also famous for the re-enactment of structions from the 11th centuries. It was Christ’s passion held on Good Friday. the model for several Abbeys in the south of For further information visit: the country. The garden, the cloister, (made www.sezze.it

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- 64 - SERMONETA The town of Ninfa takes its name from a lit- Distance from Gaeta: 78 km - 48.5 mi tle temple dedicated to the nymphs during How to get there: the Roman period, and is built on one of by car - take the SS 213 Flacca heading to- the richest springs at the foot of the Lepini ward Terracina and the SS 7 Appia heading Hills. These waters gave life to the original toward Rome. river Nymphaeus. Of the abandoned medieval town there remains today an impos- Sermoneta is a charming medieval village ing double wall, and the ruins of a castle, set on the top of a hill. It is surrounded by churches, municipal buildings, and many strong walls, and has picturesque streets. It private dwellings. As in the past, water is is a well preserved example of the medie- still the key to Ninfa’s survival. val village in Latium. Ninfa had a significant economic and stra- The Castello Caetani was built on the ru- tegic identity as early as the 8th century. ins of a temple of Cibele in the 13th cen- This came about due to the flooding and tury, and enlarged in the 14th century. It impassability of a stretch of the Appian is a “maschio” - a massive cylindrical tower Way between Cisterna and Terracina, and with a drawbridge – and belonged to the the consequent spread of malaria. A water Caetani family in the 13th century. The dam, seen to this day at Ninfa, is an example Castle dominates the village, and open of advanced engineering from early times. air concerts are held here in July. The By the beginning of the 11th century, Nin- beautiful Church of Arcangelo Michele is fa had grown to the status of a small town. a building from the 9th century. You can It continued to expand and prosper, and in enjoy a beautiful view of the Pontine is- 1159, Rolando Bandinelli was consecrated lands from Sermoneta. as Pope Alexander III in S. Maria Maggio- For furthered information visit: www.sermo- re, the largest of Ninfa’s seven churches. neta.it and www.fondazionecaetani.org Several papal families - among them the Tuscolo, Frangipani, Conti, and Anibaldi GARDEN OF NINFA - fought over Ninfa which was at various Distance from Gaeta: 87 km - 54 mi. times destroyed and rebuilt before passing How to get there: finally to the Caetani family in 1298. 100 by car - take the SS 213 Flacca heading to- years of prosperity followed. But as the re- ward Terracina and the SS 7 Appia heading sult of papal wars and inter-family disputes, toward Rome. the town was substantially destroyed in

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- 64 - - 65 - 1382, leading to an exodus of the popula- The Valvisciolo Abbey is located between tion, and an unstoppable decay that lasted Sermoneta and Latina Scalo. It was found- until the 20th century. In the 17th century, ed by Greek monks in the 8th century, and Ninfa was for a time used for commercial rebuilt by the Knights of the Order of Tem- activity, for example, with iron-works and a plars in the 13th century. In the 14th centu- tannery, or, as a recreational retreat for the ry the Cistercian monks arrived. The Church Caetani who then commissioned Frances- represents one of the earliest examples of co da Volterra to design the Hortus Conclu- Romanesque-Cistercian architecture. sus (enclosed garden). In the 18th and 19th The crosses, such as those on the windows, centuries artists and travelers regularly vis- are features of the Templars’ influence. ited the ruined town. During a restoration, a Templar palindrom- Due to its delicate environmental balance ic Sator Square was discovered on a wall. (plants, birds and insects), the Garden of Ninfa offers a limited number of public NORMA openings each year. Distance from Gaeta: 86 km - 53 mi. The Garden is open for public visits on the How to get there: first Saturday and Sunday of each month by car - take the SS 213 Flacca heading to- from April to October; on the third Sunday in ward Terracina and the SS 7 Appia heading April, May and June; and on the first Sunday toward Rome. in November. The management reserves the right to cancel or to reschedule public Norma, formerly called Norba, is particular- openings in the event of bad weather, or ly outstanding for the remains of the Vols- other circumstances beyond its control. cians and Romans. The Megalithic Wall of No pre-booking is required for public openings. the 4th century BC is one of the most fas- For further information visit: cinating, ancient walls in Latium. The two www.fondazionecaetani.org/giardini.php acropolis situated within the walls are very interesting. Norma has several beautiful VALVISCIOLO ABBEY churches such as the SS Annunziata with Distance from Gaeta: the chapel of refuge, the Immacolata and 85 km - 53 mi. (near Sermoneta) S. Rocco. You might also enjoy a visit to the How to get there: Civic Museum and the Virtual Museum of by car - take the SS 213 Flacca heading toward Ter- the Ancient Norba. racina and the SS 7 Appia heading toward Rome The ruins of the town destroyed by Sulla in

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- 66 - 89 B.C. are in the archaeological site on Col- ry, and is the oldest Cero Pasquale ever found. le della Civita The Chiesa di S. Francesco is 16 th century, The Chocolate Museum is also an interest- and the Oratorio della Chiesa dell’Annunzi- ing place to visit: Via Capo dell’acqua,20. ata of the 14th century has beautiful frescos For further information visit: with depictions from the Old and New Tes- www.museodelcioccolato.com taments. The Church of Sant’Oliva in Piazza Sant’Oliva is a beautiful medieval church of CORI the 15th century, and was built over Roman Distance from Gaeta: 94 km - 58 mi. ruins as well. This Church also hosts the His- How to get there: tory Museum of Cori. by car – take the SS 213 Flacca heading toward Terracina then the SS 7 Appia head- FORMIA ing toward Rome. Distance from Gaeta: 5 km - 3 mi. How to get there: Cori, formerly called Cora, is located on the by local bus – departure approximately ev- Monti Lepini. It was a flourishing commer- ery half an hour from in front of the marina. cial town in the 5th century BC In Cori there are many archaeological remains. The Tem- Formia was founded by Laconi and was pio di Ercole (1st century BC) is the symbol formerly called Greek Ormiae and Ro- of the town. The City walls were restored man Formiae. It is located on the Appian in the Middle Ages and strengthened with Way, and was a well-known resort during new towers, fortifications, and three gates: the imperial era. You can see the ruins of Romana, Signina and Ninfina. several important Roman houses such as Cori also has many interesting church- Villa Mamurra and Villa Mecenate, and the es, such as the Sanctuary della Madonna remains of the Roman harbor “Porticciolo del Soccorso (16th century), the Church Caposele”. Marco Tullio Cicerone built his of Santa Maria della Pietà, and the Chiesa country house on this beautiful Gulf, and it Collegiata in Romanic style built in the12th is where he was killed in December 43 AD. century and built over the ruins of a Roman Here it is possible to visit his mausoleum. It Temple. It was completely restored at the is a 24mt high tower which is located in a beginning of the 17th century. large garden on the Appian Road. The Vil- The Church has a beautiful Cero Pasquale/ la Rubino built on the Villa of Cicerone, was Paschal Candle Holder from the 12th centu- purchased by King Ferdinando II of Bor-

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- 66 - - 67 - bone, and was the site where the armistice Mountains. It was originally a flourishing that ended the siege of Gaeta was signed commercial settlement built near the Gari- on February 13th, 1861. The “Cisternone of gliano river. It was started by the Ausoni Castellone”, located on the top of the an- people along the Appian Way, but Mintur- cient Roman acropolis, is another interest- nae was subsequently pillaged by the Lon- ing site to visit. It was an important and im- gobardi. It was important because of its posing Roman cistern of the1st century BC. control of the bridge on the Appian Way It is supported by a row of limestone pillars over the Garigliano. In 1930 archaeological which divide the structure into four naves digs discovered and revealed the beautiful with cross-vaults. The Cisternone was sup- Amphitheatre (I AD) which, in the summer, plied with water coming from the spring on hosts plays and other performing arts to the hill in the area of Santa Maria La Noce to over 4000 spectators. provide the town with water. It resembles It is possible to see some Roman ruins, the most important cisterns in the world: such as the amphitheater, an aqueduct, The Piscina Mirabilis of Miseno and the fa- and a statue of Sepeone (Scipione), from mous Yerbatan Saray of Istanbul. It can be considered extraordinary proof of Roman the Late Empire age. Near the Appian Way hydraulic engineering. The City Hall hosts the remains of a Capitolium were built in an interesting Archeological Museum. Italic-Etruscan style after 191 BC. Weekly market: Thursday from 8:00am to 1:00pm. The Castle Baronale (12th century) is in the medieval section of the town. It was built by MINTURNO Archbishop Leone, and owned by the Caetani Distance from Gaeta: 20 km - 12 mi. family. The Convento of San Francesco was How to get there: built in1320 by Roffredo III Caetani, neph- by local bus – from Piazza Roma, the Gaeta ew of Pope Bonifacio VIII. It hosts a beautiful main square, across from the marina. frescos of the Madonna delle Grazie. The Ca- by train – from Formia train station head- thedral dedicated to St. Pietro is of the 11th ing to Minturno-Scauri, and then by bus or century. The Church of the Annunciation, at taxi for the historical center. the entrance to the town, holds frescoes from Neapolitan artists (3rd-4th century). Minturno, formerly called Minturnae, is Minturno was part of the Gustav Line during an agricultural town built on the Aurunci World War II and suffered heavy bombings.

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- 68 - THE SUIO THERMAL BATHS CASSINO (Terme di Suio) Distance from Gaeta: 36 km - 23 mi. Distance from Gaeta: 36 km - 23 mi. How to get there: How to get there: by car. Superstrada heading toward Cassi- by car – Superstrada heading toward Cassi- no Napoli, exit Castelforte-Suio. no Napoli, exit Castelforte-Suio. by bus: from Formia train station. by train – from Formia train station heading toward Minturno-Scauri and then by bus Cassino is located by Monte Cairo near the joining of the two rivers Garigliano and Liri. Suio is located on the Monti Aurunci along The town is known for the site of the Abby the right bank of the river Garigliano. The of Montecassino, and of the Battle of Monte village of Suio Alto is on the hill where there Cassino during World War II. Today Cassino is a Castle built in the 10th century AD to is a cultural and industrial town, dominat- defend the town from the Saraceni attacks, ed by the Monte Cassino Abbey. and to control the estuary of the river Gari- It was famous during the Roman Republic gliano. The village of Forma di Suio is at the and the Roman Empire. You can visit the feet of the Castle, were the thermal baths beautiful Roman Amphitheater and the are located. The baths have been famous Mausoleum built by Ummidia Quadratilla since the Roman Imperial age, and the in the 1st century AD. It still hosts 3000 Aquae Vescine were mentioned by Plinio seats during summer theater. the Elder and Lucanus. Close to the Gari- gliano estuary there was the sacred grove of the Italic goddess Mariva. You can also visit the Church of Santa Maria in Pensulis (13th century), which was built on the ruins of a Roman Villa, and was originally owned by The Knights Hospitaller of Gaeta. It is also interesting to visit the Church of San Michele Arcangelo in Suio Alto.

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- 68 - - 69 - THE ABBEYS

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- 70 - THE BENEDECTINES ABBEYS times, and has always come out of its ruins stronger. In 577 Langobards destroyed it, then Saracens in 887. In 1349 a violent MONTECASSINO ABBEY earthquake occurred, and in February 1944 Distance from Gaeta: 36 Km. - 23 mi. a bombardment almost flattened it. Ora et labora et lege: this is the motto of How to get there: Saint Benedict’s Rule that the monks still by car - follow the Autostrada A2 heading follow in their daily routine. to Cassino and follow signs to the Abbazia Some of them study in the library surround- di Monte Cassino. (A quick sharp left turn). ed by ancient books, or do research of by bus - at the Formia train station there are breathtaking manuscripts in the archives. buses departing approximately every hour Every day thousands of visitors from around from 0800 to 2100 every day. Get off at the the world come to this threshold. center of Cassino. From there take the bus They silently go through the cloisters, and to the Abbey (Abbazia). then up the big ramp to the Basilica at Saint Benedict and Scholastica’s grave. The Abbey of Montecassino is one of the The Crypt beneath, reveals the astonishing most famous Abbeys in the world. In 529 golden mosaics. But it is in the museum Saint Benedict chose this mountain to build where visitors can finally see the magnifi- a monastery that would host him, and those cent paintings, the wonderful manuscripts, monks following him on the way from Sub- and ancient books. iaco. Paganism was still present there, They can go through the history of the Ab- but he managed to turn the place into a bey from the very beginning up to today, well-structured Christian monastery, where and grasp why Montecassino Abbey is everybody could have the dignity they de- known as the Lighthouse of Western Civi- served through praying and working. lization. Throughout the centuries the Abbey has For further information visit: met magnificence and destruction many www.montecassinoabbey.org

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- 70 - - 71 - SAN VINCENZO AL VOLTURNO ABBEY from where they returned about thirty - ROCCHETTA AL VOLTURNO years later to found a convent once again with the financial support of the German Distance from Gaeta: 70 km - 44 mi. emperors Otto II and Otto III. After the arrival of the Normans, the monks How to get there: decided to transfer the monastery to a safer It became one of the most important mon- location on the right bank of the Volturno. asteries in Europe during the age of Char- The new church was consecrated by Pope lemagne. Benedictines may have arrived Paschal II in 1115, the same period in which in Molise at the same time the Abbay was the Chronicon was compiled. built in the Valley of Volturno. Today, San Vincenzo Abbey is the home of Thus, they are likely to be the founders. the American Benedictine nuns of the Re- St.Vincent, in the valley of Volturno can be gina Laudis convent of Connecticut. reached from Cassino across the Annunzia- For further information visit: ta Lunga Pass. During the Frankish Empire, www.sanvincenzoabbey.org and Charlemagne gave it so many privileg- www.archeologicamolise.beneculturali.it es that the monastery was elevated to be one of the most important European con- vents of the time. In the ninth century the THE CISTERCIAN ABBEYS monastery housed more than 350 monks, These holy buildings all share such features and could count amongst its property ten as a simple façade, an elegant rose window, churches and numerous holdings, mostly and an interior with three naves resting located in southern Italy. However, in 848 on large non-ornamented pillars. Coupled the buildings of the monastery were seri- with the use of local building material, ously damaged by an earthquake. In 881 these elements responded to the dictates the monastery was pillaged by the Arabs, of the Cistercian order, which advocated a who imprisoned some of the monks. return to simplicity and purity in religion. After the attack on the monastery, some of The high, stained glass windows serve to the monks managed to escape to Capua elevate the faithful’s look skyward.

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- 72 - FOSSANOVA ABBEY century). The Church represents one of the Distance from Gaeta: 63 km - 39 mi. earliest examples of Gothic-Cistercian ar- How to get there: chitecture. Close to it lies the large Mon- by train - from Formia train station to the astery featuring a 13th century square- Priverno-Fossanova station. shaped cloister resting on small columns.

Founded by Benedictine monks in the 9th century, this Abbey is the first Italian exam- TRISULTI ABBEY - COLLEPARDO ple of Cistercian-Gothic construction, and Distance from Gaeta:. 117 km - 72 mi. was the model for several other Abbeys in How to get there: the southern part of the country. Places to by car - follow SR13 heading toward Ter- visit are the Gardens, the Cloister (made of racina, exit Frosinone/Priverno/MI-NA - SS7 small coupled columns), and the Foresteria heading toward SS156 to Priverno - follow (guesthouse) where St. Thomas of Aquinus SS156 e SS155 heading to SP48 Alatri - died in 1274. SP115 heading to SP224 Collepardo.

Carthusian Monastery of Trisulti is located in VALVISCIOLO ABBEY - SERMONETA Collepardo close to Frosinone. The Carthu- Distance from Gaeta: sian Monastery or Certosa is 825 metre high. 85 km - 53 mi (close to Sermoneta). It is surrounded by the secular oak woods How to get there: of the Hernici Hills, bordering the National by car – take the SR13 heading toward Ter- Park of Abruzzo. This wonderful complex of racina - then the SS7 to Sermoneta. buildings is the perfect place to relax and regenerate. The construction of the mon- Founded by Greek monks in the 8th cen- astery dates back to1204, when it was built tury, the Abbey was reconstructed by the on the remains of the ancient Benedictine Knights of the Order of Templars (13th abbey (1000), whose ruins can still be seen century), and subsequently passed into today. Despite a series of restoration works, the hands of Cistercian monks (early 14th the building has kept its original Roman-

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- 72 - - 73 - esque-Gothic style. Originally, it was inhab- the Cistercian Order. A jewel of Gothic Ital- ited by Benedictines for around two centu- ian architecture, the building dates back to ries, then handed over to the Carthusians in 1096, when it was constructed by the Bene- 1204, who constructed the building we can dictines on the remains of the Roman town still see today. The Carthusians kept it until Cereatae Mariane, birthplace of the famous 1947, when it was entrusted to the Cister- Roman condottiere Caio Mario, reflected cian Congregation of Casamari. today in the name of the abbey (from the Latin for “House of Mario”). The abbey itself initially saw great econom- CASAMARI ABBEY - VEROLI ic development, but at the beginning of the Distance from Gaeta: 117 km - 73 mi. 12th century it was the victim of a severe How to get there: crisis, leading the monastery, along with by car - go to Formia heading toward Cassi- other Benedictine monasteries in Italy, to no. take the A1/A45 heading toward Rome join the Cistercian Order, which was start- and exit at Ferentino to SS214 heading to- ed in France in that period by St. Bernard of ward Veroli and exit Casamari. Clairvaux. Except for brief periods of time, the abbey The Abbey of Casamari is the main example has been run by the Cistercian Order since of Cistercian-Gothic architecture in Italy. A the 13th century. The changes and exten- “vertical” style, of which the common de- sions begun by the Cistercians in 1203, re- nominators are simplicity, almost total ab- spected the simple and austere style dic- sence of decorative elements, a bell tower, tated by the head of the French order in and a construction of monastic buildings Citeaux. Aside from the Church, the Cloister, on a common plan. Casamari is an obvious and the Library, the tourist will find it partic- and magnificent example of this style. ularly interesting to visit the famous Herb- alist’s Shop. Here the monks sell products Casamari is one of the few remaining com- they prepare following age old traditions: plete examples of the spatial organization herb-based medications, teas, and delicious created by Bernard of Clairvaux, founder of treats such as chocolate and liqueurs.

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- 74 - HISTORY THROUGH THE EYES OF AN EXPERT GUIDE

Do you want to feel like SPERLONGA an archeologist for a day? The Myth of Ulisses, from the Cyclop Po- liphemus to the monster Skilla, is represented by the amazing statues at the Ar- It is possible to spend a very exciting day in chaeological Museum. The archaeologist Minturnae as an archaeologist, in Sperlonga will relate the stories hidden behind the to travel through the Roman Empire history, Roman artifacts, such as the precious sol- and in Montecassino Abbey to live the thou- dier’s helmet, amphoras, the oscillum. He sand years of its history. will lead you to the remains of the Roman Villa of the emperor Tiberius and the Grotto named after him, which was the spectacu- Please contact the marina office for details. lar natural scenery for his celebrations.

MONTECASSINO ABBEY MINTURNAE You will discover the historic Abbey, found- Our archaeologist will show you the secrets ed by Saint Benedictus during the 5th cen- of the Roman city throughout the streets, tury AD. It was destroyed and rebuilt four the Roman Theatre, Thermal Baths, and the times. During the second World War it was Macellum (Mall). You will be impressed by destroyed because of a mistake by an al- the ancient writings engraved on the walls lied junior officer who mistook the German of the Latrina (public toilet). word for “Abbot” for a similar word meaning This is an amazing trip that will allow you to “Battalion”. You will go through the cloister discover everyday life during Roman times. of the Abbey, the main church, and its crypt After visiting the roman city, the archaeol- where reliefs of the military orders (such as ogist will take you to the Archaeological Templars) can been seen. Later, you can vis- Museum. The next stop will be the Bour- it the Museum, where marble artifacts, stat- bon Bridge where ancient wooden pieces ues, jewels and books dating to the Middle of ships and statues are exposed. Ages can be admired.

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- 74 - - 75 - THE PONTINE ISLANDS

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- 76 - - 77 - THE PONTINE ISLANDS highest hill on the island is Monte Guardia. In Ponza there are two narrow roads that The archipelago of the Pontine Islands fea- go from the north to the south of the island, tures wild nature and clear blue seas. The and where it is advisable to pass through Islands came up from the water 200 million only with small cars or scooters. Ponza years ago as volcanic lands. It was known provides tourists with hospitality, excellent since the Pre - Roman and Roman era as food, mild climate, comforts, and such nat- one of the most striking and fascinating ural beauty like the small coves of Chiaia places in the Mediterranean sea. The bays di Luna, Frontone and Cala Feola. beaches and shelters of the six islands are extraordi- closed better coves at anchor. narly beautiful. Ponza, Gavi, Zannone and Palmarola are 35 miles from Gaeta to the south-west, where- PALMAROLA as Ventotene and S.Stefano are 25 miles Distance from Gaeta: 35 nautical miles. from the marina. Distance from Ponza: 5 nautical miles. Palmarola is on the west of the Arcipelago. Its shelter is terrific, and its anchorages are PONZA beautiful. The island is mostly uninhabited, Distance from Gaeta: 35 nautical miles. but there are few little houses and a small Ponza is the largest island and Zannone is restaurant on the shore of Cala del Porto the oldest. (Cala Francese). You can anchor off of Pun- Ponza was colonized by the Etruscans ta Tramontana, in the amazing bay called and might be the island of the Sorceress “La Cattedrale”, or on the south side off of Circe in Homer’s Odyssey. The Grotta della “Punta Mezzogiorno” Both have steep Maga Circe is on the west side of the island cliffs, where in the afternoon you might see between Capo Bianco and Chaia di Luna the little goats pasturing. You can swim in beaches. The island was formerly inhab- the beautiful caves below the cliffs, and in- ited by Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans and side the “Faraglioni di Mezzogiorno”. Byzantines. You can visit the ruins of Ro- man Villas and the perfectly preserved underground tunnels. ZANNONE The town of Ponza is a fishing and boating Distance from Gaeta: 26 nautical miles. port, with docks for almost 200 boats. The Zannone is the northern island of the Arci-

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- 78 - pelago. It was formerly called Greek Sino- ture. The Antiquarium is very interesting, nia. It was very well known by the Greeks hosting Roman remains found on both and Romans. You can visit the ruins of an land, and in the sea. The island is also a Scu- important Cistercian Monastery, but only ba Diving mecca due to the various wrecks with permission in advance. During the and ruins. In the spring the island hosts summer, only the two guardians of the ornothologists from all over the world, that Lighthouse live on Capo Negro. In spring do a migrational bird census yearly. It is a the island is inhabited by the ornotholo- marvelous thing to see in early spring. gists that do the migrational bird census Ventotene is well known in Europe for yearly. Zannone is part of the Circeo Na- the “Manifesto di Ventotene” written by Alt- tional Park. iero Spinelli, who was the “Founding Father of the European Union”.

VENTOTENE Distance from Gaeta: 25 nautical miles. SANTO STEFANO Ventotene is on the border between Lazio Distance from Gaeta: 27 nautical miles. and Campania. It is a very small, yet import- Santo Stefano is located 1 mile east of Ven- ant island. It is 3 kilometer long, and only totene. It is circular in shape, and less than 800 metre wide. It is inhabited by around 400 metres (1,300 feet) in diameter. Like 700 people. This includes the small island the rest of the archipelago, the island is of of Santo Stefano located 1 mile to the east. volcanic origin. The island hosts an old pris- Ventotene was formerly called Greek Pan- on built by the Bourbons in 1797, and only daria. It is well known as the island where closed in 1965. It has 99 large cells, 4.50 by the daughter of emperor Augustus, Julia 4.20 metres (14.8 by 13.8 ft) around a cen- the Elder, was exiled for 5 years in the 2nd tral watchtower. There is also Julia’s private century BC for adultery, and where Agrip- bath which is worth a view. pina, the grandniece of Tiberius suffered The island is a natural reserve, and has been the same penaltry in 29th AC. uninhabited since the prison was closed. It The Romans built a very safe harbor to is possible to visit the island, through the moor their fleets, and was later the Bour- local boats with permission to land. They bons. The Roman harbor is still used today also offer tours if requested. The reserve is for boats up to 13 mt. Ventotene is known delineated by yellow bouys, and navigation for its peaceful atmosphere and wild na- is prohibited within these bounds.

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- 78 - - 79 - WELCOME TO GAETA HIKING ITINERARIES HIKING ITINERARIES FROM SV CALABAR (WINTER 2002)

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- 82 - - 83 - HIKING ITINERARIES bus and get off about half a kilometer after the bus passes under the old viaduct (the This diary of itineraries was provided by one which curves across the valley). David Black and Barbara Brady of SV Cala- There is a small road to the right, opposite a bar. They spent the winter in Gaeta with a traffic mirror. Head up this to the top of the large group of cruisers in 2002. saddle at the farm mentioned above, and walk back down the hill to Formia. Very nice Gaeta Live-aboards - Hiking Expedition #0 views. Instead, we descended to the farm in Thursday Dec. 7th. the valley and found a road down.

Gaeta Live-aboards - Hiking Expedition #1 PARCO DEL CIRCEO Thursday Nov. 16th Original Hike:

Information: GIANOLA – MONTE DI SCAURI Mount Arunci 34 Hikes and Treks Hand- NATIONAL PARK book Hike number 54. An easy four hour hike along the shore of Ditto Map a pleasant park. Reachable by regular bus Start of Hike: 9:20 am service. End of Hike: 3:00 pm Meet: At the marina office (harbour end) at 8:45 am.

Details: Itinerary: Parco Del Circeo 9:00 am Bus to Formia, Via Carlo Alberto then 9:30 am bus to Scauri. 0773 511386 20 minute walk to the park entrance. 2-3 hour walk through the park to the west end. Comments: 20 minute walk back to main road and bus We failed to get up to the shoulder because to Gaeta. the trail markers were very difficult to follow. In fact we lost them after about half a Difficulty: kilometer after the farm. In the fog it was Easy. Natural path through the hills. unsafe to proceed. We will try again! There are NO facilities and definitely no An alternative hike would be to take the Itri hamburger stands

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- 84 - Bring: park signpost on the south side of the via Get your bus ticket in advance. A day ticket Appia. Walk down the via Mura Megali- is best. Can be had in the Piazza de la Libertà. tiche to the Park entrance (about 500m) Comfortable hiking clothes Turn right, through a little field to entrance Good walking shoes to track. Wet gear. Anorak or cape Up the track for 200m Track turns left, gets Lots of water (1 liter per person) wider and flattens out. If you see this, you Snack or Picnic have gone too far! Just before this, head up a little trail to the right. Cancellation: Follow path up the hill, veer south and zig- If the weather is poor, better to postpone. zag down hill to coastal path. Follow path 1-2 kms to entrance to Oasis Blu. Turn Additional Details left down to bay and picnic. Follow coast Original Hike: around to Roman Harbour. Optional extension east along the shore to Information: Roman ruins. Worthwhile. 1. “itinerari nei Parchi” Azienda di Promozi- Back up track or road to East Park Entrance. one Turistica della Provincia di Latina Avail- Walk out road to North, via Fosse dell’Olivo, able from Gaeta Tourist office. to via Appia On main road turn right and 2. Parco regionale suburbano di GIANOLA E walk 150m to bus stop for bus back to Gaeta. MONTE DI SCAURI. Single page map and guide obtainable at Comments: Park Entrance (If anyone is there!) This route chosen to facilitate connecting Start of Hike: 10:00 am. with the bus! End of Hike: 3:00 pm Easy walk with pleasant views of the sea. You need the map! The trails are poorly Details: marked and it appears that the Park is rela- Bus to Formia Railway station. tively unused. If you take the Roman Ruin Bus to Scauri. Get off at the bus stop near extension, some trail finding is necessary. the east end of the park (just over the hill Good walk to start the winter season! before descent to Scauri at Kilometer 150 on the via Appia.) Gaeta Live-aboards - Hiking Expedition #2 Walk back up the hill about 150 meters to Thursday Nov. 23rd.

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- 84 - - 85 - CIMA DEL REDENTORE It’s always a good idea to bring a Flashlight A moderate climb on a good path to a & Compass. great lookout at the Redentore rock, alti- Lots of water (1 liter per person) tude 1259m. We take the bus to Maranola, Snack or Picnic. where “Antonio” will transport us, four at Purchase two bus tickets a time, to the parking lot. The ascent by (to and from Gaeta to Formia) foot is 450m. On the return we will walk Need to purchase two bus tickets to Ma- the whole way to Maranola, a descent ranola return. of 1000m. It may be possible to arrange Purchase in the railway station at Formia. transport back from the car park, or other (Not at the bar– different bus line!) variations! Cost of car shuttle to the Car Park from Ma- ranola may vary with numbers ) Itinerary: Meet at the marina office Cancellation: (harbour end) at 8:45 am. If Redentore is cloudy, better to postpone. 9:00 am Bus to Formia, Alternative: Bus to Castellonorato and stroll then 9:50 ATP bus to Maranola down the road to Maranola. Easy walk with Relay transport by “ Antonio” to Car Park nice scenery on a small quiet road. 1-1.1/2 hour climb to Redentore rock 2 hour descent back to Maranola Original Hike: Return to Gaeta by bus. Estimated return time 4-5 pm. Information: Route number 60, page 13, Monti Arunci Difficulty: 34 hikes and treks. Moderate: 450m ascent and 1000m de- APT. Handbook in English.. A must! scent, on good path / road. Monti Arunci 34 hikes and Treks It may be possible to arrange additional Map Companion to the handbook (Italian) transport.. Start of Hike: Needed (per person). 10:45 am. From the Car park at Comunita Comfortable (and warm) hiking clothes. Montana Forestry house. Good walking shoes End of Hike: Wet gear. Anorak or cape. 6:00 pm

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- 86 - Details: Alternative: Bus to Formia Railway station. Bus to Castellonorato and stroll down the Bus to Maranola. Note. Different bus, ATP. road to Maranola. Buy ticket in railway station! Easy walk with nice scenery on a small qui- Prearranged car ferry from Bar de Meo, in the et road. town square of Maranola. Note that not all buses go to the town square; you may have Gaeta Live-aboards - Hiking Expedition #3 Thursday Nov. 30th. to walk up, but it’s only 200 steep meters! We contacted Bar “de Meo” at Tel: 0771 735252 and spoke to “ Mauro”. He arranged MADONNA DELLA CIVITA with a local “ Antonio” to have a car avail- A moderate climb up the pilgrim’s path to able for us at 10:00 am. We ferried every- the sanctuary of the Madonna della Civita, one to the car park, in three trips. which we can visit. This was a one way arrangement. We could Starts at a point about 2 1/2 km along a lev- have asked him to pick us up on the way back. el road, north of Itri. From Itri we will take a If Mauro or Antonio have moved on, I am sure taxi to the start, or walk. the bar can still set up an arrangement. It may be possible to take a bus back down The hike is magnificent. A little intimidat- from the sanctuary to Itri at about 3 pm. ing at first but a very clear, easy path. Until just after the church of San Michele. It be- Itinerary: comes a little vague but just keep going up Meet at the marina office the rock in a moderate climb, until you pick (harbour end) at 7:30 am. up the red and white trail markers again, in 7:40 am Bus to Itri. about 200m. Walk down the road from the Local Taxi, or walk 2½ km along road to Car car park to Maranola. About 4-5 kms. Easy Park at Raino 1½ hour climb to Madonna walk, but a 650m descent. Option to call for della Civita 1 hour tour of the sanctuary. a car or hitch hike. 1½ hour descent to car park & then back down road to Itri. Comments: There will be time for a tour of old Itri - or a A magnificent walk. Moderate, but many little pasta! “bail-out” options. Return to Formia by 4:00 pm bus. Pick a clear day. The viewpoint is often in (Next bus is at 6:00 pm!) the mist later in the day.

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- 86 - - 87 - Difficulty: Itinerary: Moderate: 460m ascent and descent, on Meet at the marina office (harbour end) at “pilgrim’s” trail. 7:45 am. Taxi / walk 2½ km Itri to/from Car Park. 8:00 am Bus to Formia. Ask bus to stop at Needed (per person). intersection of via Appia and the road up Comfortable and warm hiking clothes. from the seafront at Vindicio. At km 140 on (It’s getting colder) the via Appia. Good walking shoes Head west from intersection for a few me- Wet gear. Anorak or cape. ters and take road to the right, pass under It’s always a good idea to bring a Flashlight the railway and up the path. & Compass. 2½ - 3 hour climb to Piano di Terruto Lots of water (1 liter per person) 2 – 2½ hour descent to Formia. Bus back Snack or Picnic. to Gaeta One all-day bus ticket. Small additional cost for Taxi to the car park. Difficulty: Moderately difficult: Cancellation: 800m ascent and descent. If the weather is poor, better to postpone. Option to turn back part way.

Alternative: Needed (per person): If the weather turns nasty at Itri, it’s still Comfortable and warm hiking clothes. worth hiking up the hill to the old town. (It’s getting colder). Good walking shoes Wet gear. Anorak or cape. Gaeta Live-aboards - Hiking Expedition #4 It’s always a good idea to bring a Flashlight & Compass. Lots of water (1 liter per person) PIANO DI TERRUTO Snack or Picnic. An exceptionally attractive climb from Two bus tickets to / from Formia Formia up into the Arunci Mountains. Mod- erately long and hard. Total altitude gain Cancellation: is 800 m. Guide book times are 2½ hours If the weather is poor, better to postpone. up and 2 hrs down. Easy access. Option to It’s worth waiting for a day with really good turn back at an intermediate point. visibility.

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- 88 - Original Hike: Fog rolled in and we could not proceed. In- stead we descended to the farm in the val- Information: ley and found a road down to the Via Appia Mount Arunci 34 Hikes and Treks Hand- and walked back to Formia. book Hike number 54. Note that it is best to take the FIRST road Ditto Map to Gaeta, because there is a bus stop just Start of Hike: 9:20 am. west of the point where this road emerges End of Hike: 3:00 pm on the shore.

Details: Comments Bus to Formia We failed to get up to the shoulder because Get off at the top of the road which leads the trail markers were very difficult to fol- up from the shore; the intersection of Via low. In fact we lost them after about half a Appia and the road from Vindicio. Walk kilometer after the farm. In the fog it was back west and go up the little street direct- unsafe to proceed. We will try again! ly opposite the road up from the shore. It An alternative hike would be to take the has high walls on either side. Go up, zigzag Itri bus and get off about half a kilometer to the left and under the railway. There is a after the bus passes under the old viaduct little red and white trail marker with “54” in (the one which curves across the valley. the centre just under the bridge. There is a small road to the right, opposite Up the long zigzag road to the farm at the a traffic mirror. Head up this to the top of top. An easy gentle climb. the saddle at the farm mentioned above Bear right through a barbed wire fence/ and walk back down the hill to Formia. gate and up the hill. At the first bend there Very nice views. is a path leading north, with a trail sign. e top of the road which leads up from the Follow this trail up the mountain, travers- shore; the intersection of Via Appia and the ing up the left (west) slope of Mont S Ma- road from Vindicio. Walk back west and go ria. Eventually cross a little ravine and head up the little street directly opposite the upstream to the top. Moderate to difficult road up from the shore. It has high walls on scrambling with no obvious trail! either side. Go up, zigzag to the left. This is as far as we got! The trail markers are very infrequent and hard to see. Look for them on the trees. There is NO Visible Trail.

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- 88 - - 89 - WELCOME TO GAETA CONTENTSNAPLES

WELCOME TO GAETA WELCOME TO GAETA DAY TRIPS NEAR NAPLES amphitheater, gymnasium and a port. The eruption was cataclysmic for the town, as we learned by Pliny the Younger’s letter, POMPEI who saw the eruption from a distance, and How to get there: described the death of his uncle Pliny the by car: drive to Naples, then take the A3 Au- Elder, an admiral of the Roman fleet, who tostrada to the Pompei exit. tried to rescue citizens. by train: from Formia train station, every The site was lost for about 1,500 years, until hour the train runs to Naples - Central Sta- a Spanish military engineer Rocque Joaquin tion, then take the Circumvesuviana line de Alcubierre, rediscovered the ancient heading toward Sorrento. It takes about 40 town in 1748. The objects that lay beneath minutes to get to Pompei. Get off at the the city have been well preserved for cen- “Pompei Scavi” stop. turies due to the lack of air and moisture. Circumvesuviana train schedule: These artifacts provide an extraordinarily www.vesuviana.it detailed insight into the life of a city during The entrance is about 50m away from the sta- the Pax Romana. tion, and there’s a Tourist Information office During the excavation, plaster was used to For more information visit: fill in the voids between the ash layers that http://wikitravel.org/en/Pompeii once held human bodies. This allowed one to see the exact position the person was in Pompei is located in the Campania region when he or she died. pretty close to Naples. Pompei, along with Pompeii has UNESCO World Heritage Site Herculaneum, and many villas in the sur- status,and is one of the most popular at- rounding area, was mostly destroyed and tractions of Italy, with approximately 2.5 buried under 13 to 20 ft of volcanic ash million visitors each year. and pumice in the eruption of Mount Vesu- For more information visit: http://goeu- vius in 79AD. rope.about.com/cs/italy/a/pompeii.htm It was founded in the seventh or sixth century BC by the Osci or Oscans, and was cap- tured by the Romans in 80 BC. By the time ERCOLANO (HERCULANEUM) of its destruction, 160 years later, its popu- How to get there: lation was probably approximately 20,000. by train - from Formia train station, every The city had a complex water system, an hour the train runs to Naples - Central Sta-

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- 92 - tion, then take the Circumvesuviana line ploratory and ventilation shafts until 1828. heading toward Sorrento. It takes about Later, the “open-air” digs were authorized, 30 minutes to get to Herulaneum. Get off and were carried out until 1875. After a very at “Ercolano Scavi” stop. long interruption, Amedeo Maiuri began Circumvesuviana train schedule: work again in 1927, and continued to lead www.vesuviana.it the digs until1958. But already in 1942 the current archaeological park was brought to Herculaneum is a much smaller site in com- light, and restored and covered. Additional parison to Pompei, and it is very easy to find work was done between 1960 and 1969, in once you get off the train. There is a kind of the northern sector of Insula VI and along long bridge/walkway that goes over the ex- the main street or “Decumanus Maximus”, cavations, and gives you a great overview of while the last twenty years have concen- the whole site before you actually go down trated on exploring the ancient shoreline, into it. On the 24th of August, 79AD, Mount corresponding to the southern most strip Vesuvius erupted and destroyed the city of the archeological area. In this area 12 of Pompei by covering it in volcanic ash. It rooms were uncovered. These were rooms was discovered in the 1700s, and is still be- (fornici), with arched entrances, shelters for ing excavated today. The same event also boats, and warehouses, where many peo- destroyed 3 other towns, including Hercu- ple took refuge escaping from the erup- laneum. The excavations here are just as tion. In this area a wooden boat was found. amazing as at Pompei, and offer a different It is now diplayed in the pavilion adjacent view of Roman life. Most of the buildings to the modern offices of the Soprinten- are open to the public, so you can walk denza and the Antiquarium, waiting for about quite freely, and as it’s not as busy as the complex work of restoration. In 1991 a Pompei, you can really take your time and program of excavation for unveiling Villa of have a good look at everything at your lei- Papyri started. Carlo Weber discovered Villa sure, without being bustled about. There is of Papyri in 1750 by chance. He excavated a shop which was preserved almost in its the Villa through underground tunnels and entirety, where some of the goods were accurately surveyed it. The new excavation also preserved, as well as a ladies baths was concentrated at the western side of with some beautiful mosaic floors. The digs the modern Vico Mare, and is connected to began at Herculaneum in 1738, using the the archaeological park through a narrow technique of underground tunnels with ex- and deep trench, starting from the House

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- 92 - - 93 - of Aristide, and continuing through a gal- Kingdom in a location protected from sea lery beneath Vico Mare. In reality, only the attack. Vanvitelli died in 1773, and his son atrium of the Villa was uncovered, as the re- Carlo along with other architects, went on mains of the luxurious residence are under with the project. The elder Vanvitelli’s orig- some properties that have yet to be expro- inal project, which included a large pair of priated. In the eastern section of the exca- frontal wings similar to Bernini’s wings at vations, and in the southwestern extremity St. Peter’s, was never finished. The palace of the city, large building were uncovered, has 1,200 rooms, including two dozen state including some houses, and a thermal com- apartments, a large library, and a theatre. plex with an apsed nympheum. Because of The industrial complex of the Belvedere, the collapse of the ancient coastline, after designed to produce silk, is also of out- the eruption of 79 A.D., a system of water standing interest because of the idealistic pumps were installed to control the water principles underlying its original concep- level, and to aid in these newer excavations. tion and management. The park, which lies behind the palace, was planned by Luigi Vanvitelli, but completed by his son Carlo. CASERTA ROYAL PALACE The main axis is punctuated by a series of How to get there: by car - take the Super- Baroque fountains and stretches of water. strada heading toward Cassino – take A1 This magnificent perspective terminates at autostrada south to the Caserta exit. The the Great Fountain, where water cascades Caserta Royal Palace /Reggia di Caserta down from a height of 150m into an ornate is the biggest Royal Palace in Italy, called basin that depicts Diana bathing, observed the “Versailles of Italy”. It was built for the by the unfortunate Actaeon. Bourbon kings of Naples, and was also one of the largest buildings in Europe during the 18th century. It’s been a UNESCO World SAN LEUCIO SILK FACTORY Heritage Site since 1997. The Palace build- San Leucio is located 10 kilometers from ing was started in 1752 for Charles VII of the Royal Palace. Bourbon King Charles VII Naples, working closely with his architect and his son Ferdinand I, chose to turn their Luigi Vanvitelli, who was influenced by the hunting lodge in San Leucio into a silk fac- Palace of Versailles. The king’s primary ob- tory. They maintained the elegant rooms jective was to have a magnificent new roy- for their family, and built houses for the al court and administrative center for the silk artisans across the narrow street. All

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- 94 - had a commanding view of Caserta and NAPLES the Reggia from the belvedere. The arti- How to get there: sans had a good lifestyle, but were forced by train - from Formia station trains run ev- to live in the factory their entire lives. It was ery hour heading to Naples Central Station. the first example of life under socialism which produced the best silk of the era. Silk SPACCA NAPOLI - CHIESE- MUSEI - PIZZA from San Leucio decorated all of the Roy- Lots to see, but wear simple clothes, no al palaces around the world. The factory, jewelry, and keep your money hidden. (big now a UNESCO World Heritage site (1997), city rules) As sights are spread around, and has been turned into a museum. On dis- museums close early, it would be advisable play are full-size replicas of the machines to plan one or two each visit if doing day used to spin the dyed thread onto reels, trips. One such visit should be devoted patterned after a water-powered model to the churches and the neighborhood of by Leonardo Da Vinci. Also available are Spacca Napoli (spacca meaning “splits” and several fascinating old looms which used is literally the street that splits the city for computer- like punch cards to dictate the its entire length). Visit the churches near Pi- patterns. The shuttle was released by the azza Gesù Nuovo - Chiesa del Gesù Nuovo, weaver once the pattern had been coded. Chiesa di Santa Chiara (a sight not to miss For the first time, silk for furniture, elegant are the tiled cloisters behind the church), wall coverings in palazzi, and clothing was Cappella S. Severo with the magnificent able to be made industrially. Many in San veiled Christ, and the Chiesa di S. Domenico Leucio recall, with fondness, the noblesse Maggiore. To visit Spacca Napoli get off the oblige approach taken by King Ferdinand, metro at Piazza Cavour. Turn right until you implementing many social reforms in this come to the Museo Nazionale. Cross the utopian town of his, called Ferdinandopoli. street and walk down Via S. Maria di Cos- Then again, he also practiced the droit de tantinopoli to Piazza Gesù Nuovo. In this seigneur, giving him the right to all brides ancient area of Naples another sight not on their wedding night! When your visit is to be missed is the National Archeological over, you may want to drive to the lovely Museum, one block from the Piazza Cavour medieval town of Caserta Vecchia (about metro stop. This is where the mosaics and six miles) for lunch. Try the restaurant La frescos from Pompei and Herculaneum are Castellana, Via Torre 5. kept. There is also a Station Museum “Neo- polis” directly under the Museum in the

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- 94 - - 95 - Metro stop underground that is worth a ic, full of bustling traffic. The other, more stop before heading back. One can spend than 3,000 years old, that curves, collapses, almost an hour there, as it gives a vivid his- and hollows underground. Sixty percent of tory of Naples in a compact area. Or save it Neapolitan inhabitants live on top of more for when you come back to go to Pompei than seven hundred cavities underneath and Herculaneum. the city. These subterranean passage- Many of the artifacts displayed here were ways include old Roman markets, theaters, found while building grottos, crypts, and former bomb shelters. the metro line 1. You may also want to take Most of these underground sites remain the time to visit the fascinating street of the closed, or barely discovered; many are even nativity figurines called Via San Gregorio privately owned. Neapolitan spelunkers Armeno. It is in the same area, and is a cross dedicate themselves to the study of these street. A once in a lifetime experience, and cavities. Otherwise known as speleologists, well worth it. they study the structure, physical prop- Also, back on SpaccaNapoli (San Biagio dei erties, history, and life forms inside these Librai) and not far away, is the “Ospedale caves. They also study the processes by delle Bambole” (Hospital for Dolls) Anoth- which caves form, (speleogenesis) and how er curious stop, and definitely a recommen- caves change over time (speleomorpholo- dation for those who appreciate the fine gy). The term speleology is also commonly artisan work held over from the past. Four known as caving, spelunking, or potholing. generations of “doll doctors” have kept this For further information visit: activity flourishing. www.naplesnapoliguide.com/naples-underground/ After all of this cultural overload, you may want to stop for a pizza at one of several famous pizzeria in the area of Spacca Na- TWO OTHER NAPLES TOURS poli, where pizza originated! Probably the How to get there: most famous is “Antica Pizzeria da Michele” by train - from Formia station trains run ev- on Via Cesare Sersale, which is a cross street ery hour heading to Central Naples Station going back toward the station. No frills, just great pizza. Walk through Piazza Garibaldi and walk up The Naples Underground Tour Naples, in Corso Umberto I to Piazza Municipio. truth, is a tale of two cities. One, with the The first itinerary includes the San Carlo narrow streets that seemingly have no log- Opera House, built in 1737 with a glorious

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- 96 - interior (guided tours in the morning); the Roman Republic. Some of the main fea- Royal Palace (Palazzo Reale), a palace for tures of the island include the following: the Bourbon Kings of Naples decorated Marina Piccola (the little harbour), Belve- with beautiful doors in the style of Pompei dere of Tragara (a high panoramic prome- (open daily 9:00 am to 2:00 pm); the Galleria nade lined with villas), the limestone crags Umberto I; and a stop for a coffee or gela- called sea stacks that project above the sea to at the venerable Gambrino’s Cafe, across (the Faraglioni), the town of Anacapri and from Palazzo Reale. The second route takes theVilla di San Michele, the Blue Grotto you to the Capodimonte Museum and Pic- (Grotta Azzurra), and the ruins of the Im- ture Gallery, beautifully restored and re- perial Roman villas. The island has two har- cently reopened to the public. To get to this bours, Marina Piccola and Marina Grande museum a taxi is best. (the main port of the island). The separate comune of Anacapri is located high on the hills to the west and well worth a visit. The CAPRI etymology of the name Capri is unclear; How to get there: it might either be traced back to the first by train - from Formia train station heading recorded colonists to populate the island, to Naples Stazione Mergellina (not all trains the Ancient Greeks calling it “kapros”, mean- stop here; you may have to catch the train ing wild boar. But it could also derive from to Napoli Centrale and then the metro to Latin “capreae” or goats. Fossils of wild boar Mergellina) From there, walk to Mergellina have been discovered, lending credence to port, on the waterfront. You can also get a the “kapros” etymology; on the other hand, ferry from the Molo Beverello, near Piazza the Romans called Capri “goat island”. Final- Municipio. To get to Capri, take the ferry ly, there is also the possibility that the name (which takes 80 minutes), or a hydrofoil derives from an Etruscan word for “rocky”, (which is faster but more expensive). Tick- though any historical Etruscan rule of the ets are sold at the pier. Check the return island is disputed. Capri is a large, limestone schedule before you leave, and if you have and sandstone rock. The sides of the island a return ticket, be sure to return on the are perpendicular cliffs and the surface of same line. The main town, Capri, located on the island is composed of more cliffs. Ac- the island that shares its name, is actually cording to the Greek geographer Strabo, above the port landing. Capri was once part of the mainland. It has been a resort since the time of the This has been confirmed by geological sur-

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- 96 - - 97 - veys and archaeological findings. The city Although the dream element can rapidly has been inhabited since early times. Ev- be dispelled by the throngs of tourists in idence of human settlement was discov- high summer, Positano is indeed pictur- ered during the Roman era; according to esque. Moorish-style houses are packed Suetonius, when the foundations for the tightly on a steep terraced hillside above Villa of Augustus were being excavated, a small bay with a majolica-domed church giant bones and ‘weapons of stone’ were and a small beach with fishing boats. There discovered. The emperor ordered these is just one narrow street through the town to be displayed in the garden of his main and a maze of steep staircases and narrow residence, the Sea Palace. Modern exca- alleys (‘You do not walk to visit a friend, you vations have shown that human presence either climb or slide’ wrote Steinbeck). Ter- on the island can be dated to the Neolithic races festooned with bougainvillaea, and and the Bronze Age. Augustus developed streets flanked with cafes and boutiques, Capri; he built temples, villas, aqueducts, selling gaily colored dresses, give the whole and planted gardens so he could enjoy place something of a festive air. Steps lead his private paradise. Anacapri, and Villa down to a small grey beach and the cano- San Michele on the other hand, is known pied restaurants that cluster around it. For for the Swedish doctor Axel Munthe, who the local boats, the richest catch these days loved Capri, and in a way brought it to is the tourists taking coastal trips. Positano world fame. The villa remains a wonderful prospered in the Middle Ages as part of the place to visit and pay homage to a doc- Maritime Republic of Amalfi (medieval tow- tor that dedicated his life to the area. The ers can still be seen along the shoreline), and views of Capri and the harbour, are mag- in the 18th century under the Bourbons, nificant from “La Sfinge” of the Villa. when a trading fleet again filled the harbor. The end of the Bourbon rule in 1860 marked the start of Positano’s decline; tourists who SOUTH OF NAPLES ventured here in the later 19th century found no more than a village of farmers and POSITANO fishermen. In the 1930s, when it could still be ‘Positano bites deep. It is a dream place that described as a quiet fishing village, Positano isn’t quite real when you are there and became a colony for artists and writers, and becomes beckoningly real after you have was otherwise known as ‘the poor man’s Ca- gone’ wrote John Steinbeck in the 1950s. pri’. Today it’s the richer tourists and celeb-

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- 98 - rities that live or stay here (Franco Zeffirelli beach and have lunch. Then make a quick has a villa), but thanks to restrained tourist stop in Amalfi to look at the Cathedral and development and a far from flashy atmo- head to Ravello in time to watch the sun sphere, it has retained its charm. set from Villa Cimbrone. Again, head home through the hills. Rather than continuing on to Vietri and Sorrento, I recommend you AMALFI AND ITS COAST spend the night somewhere, perhaps in Information provided by Mrs. Marjorie Abbot. Ravello or Amalfi, and doing Vietri or Sor- This enchanting locality is worth paying rento the next day before heading back a visit to while in Gaeta. There are several to Gaeta. Driving the coastal road can be ways to visit the Amalfi Coast from Gaeta very exciting, and it is advisable to avoid it on a day trip. It is difficult to see the entire during July and August. coast at one time, thus it would be better to take several trips by car. You can begin the drive at Vietri, stopping to do some hop- GROTTA DELLO SMERALDO ping at one of Italy’s main ceramic towns, The grotto is situated in the enchanting bay then drive along the coast to Amalfi. Park of Conca dei Marini, 4km outside of Amal- the car, walk to the magnificent Byzantine fi. It can be reached by lift from the road, or Cathedral and see the famous cloisters, by a stairway from the sea. The grotto was then have a coffee in the Piazza del Duomo. discovered by some fisherman in the 1930s. From Amalfi, backtrack toward Vietri, climb What they found was a magical cave of a the mountain and visit the charming little brilliant emerald green color. The stalag- town of Ravello. Not to be missed is Villa mites and stalactites form all kinds of figures Cimbrone with its unbelievable view of and shapes. See the natural nativity scene the coast and its magnificent gardens. Af- and the ceramic crib placed four meters be- ter vowing that you too will someday own neath the water. A true marvel of nature. a villa in Ravello, return to Naples, over the hills, following the green autostrada sign as you leave Ravello. A second way to tour the RAVELLO Amalfi Coast is to begin at Sorrento (a diffi- Ravello was founded in the 6th century cult town to drive through and one whose A.D. by Roman colonies who arrived on many sights are difficult to see in one day). the shores of the coast, searching for high Head to Positano, walk down the hill to the ground to defend themselves against the

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- 98 - - 99 - aggression of their attackers, the invading Convento di San Francesco Unni, Goti, Visigoti and Longobardi peo- 13th Century. Restoration done recently. ples. These new inhabitants of Ravello, rec- Very interesting paintings in the four lateral ognized the fundamental need to trade, altars and on the high altar which holds the and so navigated ships containing their beatified body of Bonaventura. merchandise (mainly cloth) to the Orient. This proved to be very successful econom- Monastero di Santa Chiara ically for the people of the area. The noble Founded in the first half of the 14th. Cen- families that reigned here built great pal- tury; very old columns have been reused in aces, castles and churches, (approximately the building of the church. 80 in all). Ravello, from the time it truly es- tablished itself, found rivalry from nearby Santa Maria delle Grazie Amalfi. In fact it was probably the people The entrance is surmounted by a lunette of Amalfi, who first named this town “Ra- which encircles the fresco; flooring in ce- bellum” then “Ravellum” both names de- ramic tiles. riving from the word ‘ribbelarsi’ which in Two circular openings in the door permit a English means ‘to Rebel’ that Ravello got its look at the interior. name. Ravello at its most flourishing age, had a population of approximately 40,000. Chiesa della Madonna dell’Opedale But crisis after crisis followed in the form of Partly constructed in the rock in about the internal conflict, earthquakes, pestilence, 11th. Century, it was connected to the Hos- and the invasion from the Saracens. pital of which few traces remain. Two small plain columns frame the entrance. Through San Pietro alla Costa two openings made in the door, one can From the 13th Century. Reutilization of old make out a pulpit in brickwork, resting on columns. With glazed, earthenware tiled simple columns and with frescoes of the (majolica) flooring, typical of the Costiera. Venetian School.

Chiesa di San Michele a Torello Fontana Moresca Bell tower in Arabo-Sicilian style. Inside one Constructed in about the year 1000. Has can see a painting of the A. Sabatini School had numerous readjustments and addi- dating from the 15th century. tions over the course of time.

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- 100 - Santa Maria a Gradillo Castle), belvedere, thermal baths, Moorish A three-aisled church built during the first cloisters, dining-room.The Villa, mentioned half of the 11th century, it has been the in Giovanni Boccaccio’s ‘Decameron’: is subject of many restorations. One can see where Richard Wagner stayed when in Rav- inside the church during exhibitions and ello. Open all the year round. public festivities. Duomo di San Pantaleone Villa Cimbrone Built about in 1086, with the bronze doors Built in 1904. A great number of antique being cast in 1179. Plan is in the form of a and medieval artifacts; Belvedere, splendid Latin cross. Worthy of a look is the “Ambone gardens, the small temple to Bacchus, the del Vangelo” (a fine example of an early crypt, Eve’s Grotto, and the tea-room. Open Christian pulpit from the end of the 12th from 9.00 a.m. until sunset. century, with its mosaic and sculptured decorations). The small pulpit “Ambone Chiesa di San Giovanni a Toro dell’Epistola’’ displays the mosaic which Erected during the 11th century, a church represents Jonah’s being swallowed by the with three aisles. Appreciable the 11th cen- whale. The collection of artistic works kept tury pulpit, with mosaic and frescoed deco- in the vestry is of particular interest. “The rations, along with the 13th century Chapel most beautiful place I have ever seen in the of the Crib (Cappella del Presepe), and fres- world is the landscape of the Belvedere of coes of the 11th century in the crypt. The Villa Cimbrone in a bright winter day, when noteworthy bell tower is open from June to sky and sea are so vividly blue that it is im- October between 10.00 a.m. and 1.00 p.m. possible to distinguish the one from the and from 3.00 p.m. to 6 p.m. other’’. Gore Vidal.

Belvedere “Principessa di Piemonte” Gardens found on a sloping terrace with a MAIORI tremendous view of the Amalfi coast look- For those of us who prefer sunbathing and ing east towards Capo D’Orso. strolling, just relaxing and taking one’s time, Maiori is the perfect place to be. A day on Villa Rufolo the beach, a good meal, and a stroll along Built in the 13th century. Splendid gar- the beautiful promenade to end the day. The dens, the Great Tower (also calledKlingsor’s town was built in the 9th century by Prince

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- 100 - - 101 - Sicardo of Salerno, and was called Rheggina from the Torre Normana is a grotto named Maior, it soon became a town of shipbuild- Pandoras Grotto. This is similar in shape ers, as the seashore was flat and sheltered and coloration to the Emerald Grotto found by the wind. The town soon prospered between Amalfi and Praiano. with a merchant fleet that developed good trade relations with many other ports. 1656 was a bad time for Maiori, as it was hit by PAESTUM a plague reducing its inhabitants to few- How to get there: er than 1000, and quickly spread through by car - take the A3 past Salerno. At Batti- the human population, as well as livestock paglia, head south to Paestum. from its flourishing market. In 1954 the riv- by train - from Formia station every hours ers overflowed and much of the centre of trains runs heading to Naples Central Sta- the town collapsed. The people of Maiori tion - take train heading to Salerno (make quickly set about restoring it, and today sure it stops at Stazione di Paestum). it’s probably the most modern town on The site is a 15 minute walk from the train the coastline. There are so many historical station. From the front of the station, walk places to visit and walks to take. The castle through the gate in the old city wall and con- of St Nicholas is an important historical and tinue until you see the ruins in front of you. geographical feature, built in the 15th century at the foot of the Ponticchio hill. It has Site of the only well preserved Greek tem- a wonderful 18th century facade with three ples north of Sicily. Open Tues/Sun. doors, of which the main one is bronze pillars covered in marble, and gilt caisson ceil- Paestum has been a romantic ruin for a ings designed by Alessandro Fulco in 1529. thousand years in the midst of a solemn wil- Near the hamlet of St. Pietro is the Shrine of derness. Its Doric temples, hardly surpassed Santa Maria della Grazie, which was rebuilt even by those of Athens in noble simplicity in 1910 after a flood. The Church of Santa and good preservation, produce an incom- Maria a Mare is one of ancient foundation, parable effect of majesty and grandeur. The but whose original medieval structure has ancient site is set in a grassy field surround- mostly been obscured by later restoration, ed by gardens and hills, south of Salerno, at but is still worth a visit. After, you can carry the bottom of the Piana del Sele. Although on up the steps, and take a walk over the the site is small, it’s so charming that you mountain to Minori. Just a small way away may want to spend time just relaxing here.

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- 102 - The museum is also exceptional. Paestum, eye out too for the wild flowers. More that or Poseidonia as it was known, was found- one nineteenth-century traveller claimed ed by the Greeks from Sybaris in the sixth to have found descendents of Paestum’s century BC, and later in 273 BC, colonized famous rose growing wild, and some may by the Romans, who Latinized the name. still be around. By the ninth century a combination of malaria and Saracen raids had decimated the population and left the buildings deserted and gradually overtaken by the thick for- est, so the site was not rediscovered until the eighteenth century during the building of a road through here. Paestum is a desolate, eerie place which boasts three golden-stoned temples. Of these, the temple of Neptune, dating from about 450 BC, is the most complete, with only its roof and parts of the inner walls missing. The Basili- ca of Hera, built a century or so earlier, retains its double row of columns, while the temple of Ceres at the northern end of the sire was used as a Christian church for a time, though it is now sectioned off from the public. The museum across the road holds finds excavated from the site and area surrounding, including a set of archa- ic period Greek metopes You can also see the 4th century ceramics and the tomb paintings at the back of the building, one of which, from the so-called “Tomb of the Diver”, a graceful and expressively naturalis- tic piece of work, is possibly the only exist- ing example of Greek wall painting in Italy. While you are exploring Paestum, keep an

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- 102 - - 103 - WELCOME TO GAETA ROME

WELCOME TO GAETA WELCOME TO GAETA IN THE CITY MUSEUM AT THE STATION: La Libreria del Viaggiatore: Via del Pellegrino, 78 MUSEO NAZIONALE ROMANO phone 06 688 01 048. TERME DI DIOCLEZIANO This is a bookstore for travelers. While it would be impossible to note all Close to Piazza Campo dei Fiori. of the historical and cultural attractions in Rome, this one is usually left out, and see- Termini Train Station Bookstore: ing it is in front of the train station, note- inside the Station, close to worthy in our minds. the main entrance. This archeological museum also hosts exhi- This is a large bookstore bitions by world renown artists. with an English section. Open Tuesday thru Sunday 09.00 – 19.30 Closed Monday, Dec. 25, Jan. 1, May 1 SOME RESTAURANTS AND BARS IN DOWNTOWN ROME INTERNATIONAL BOOK STORES (Librerie Internazionali) Restaurants: Il Mare most restaurants in Rome are experienced International Sea bookstore: with tourism and serve very good food. Via Vantaggio, 19/A The places listed below are personally recom- phone 06 361 21 55 mended.

Anglo/American bookstore: Nino: Via della Vite,102 Via Borgognona, 11 phone 06 679 222. phone 06 6786752. Close to Piazza di Spagna. Very good restaurant but somewhat expensive. Closed on Sundays. The Lion Bookshop: Via dei Greci, 33 Porto di Ripetta: phone 06 326 54 007. Via di Ripetta, 250 Close to Piazza del Popolo. phone 06 3612376. The Corner Bookstore: Very close to Piazza del popolo. Via del Moro, 48 (Trastevere) Closed on Sundays. phone 06 583 69 42. It is expensive but excellent.

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- 106 - Il Galletto: Fried Codfish: Via Cassia, 248 Largo dei Librari, 88. phone 06 363 01 743. This is something you should not miss. It’s nice to eat outside. Typical Roman food. This small, crowed place serves tasty fried fillets of cod - one of the Rome’s most traditional Piperno: dishes - and offers a truly Roman experience. Via Monte de Cenci, 9 phone 06 68806629 La Prosciutteria: Closed in August, at Christmas, Easter, on Via della Panetteria,34 Sunday nights and Mondays. Near the Fontana di Trevi, this tiny wine In the heart of the Jewish ghetto, this bar has the best quality cheese, and fresh restaurant has been famous for over a cen- cold cuts (amazing selection of prosciut- tury for its traditional Jewish/Roman dish- tos) and wines for a quick lunch at a rea- es. Despite the competition, sonable price. the restaurant is still unbeaten for lightly Opens at 11am and suggest getting there fried courgette flowers, vegetable “fritto then, as it fills up quickly. Takes credit cards, misto,” “carciofi alla giudia”, tripe and superb and has free wifi. fish served in unpretentious surroundings. There is another one in the Trastevere area.

Il Bolognese: Piazza del Popolo, 1/2 CAFE’ AND TEA ROOMS (Sala da tè e caffè) phone 06 3611426. Very good and somewhat expensive. Rosati: Piazza del Popolo. Forum Hotel: Very nice to sit outside for a coffee and Via Tor de’ Conti, 25 watch Romans and tourists pass by. phone 06 6792446. Occupying a palace built out of materials Ciampini has two cafe’: from ruins of the nearby Imperial Fora,the Via Frattina at the corner of Via del Gambe- Forum is an old-fashioned Hotel with a sun- ro and Via Frattina. ny roof-terrace restaurant giving a wonder- Piazza Navona. This location is delightful for ful vista over the archaeological centre. sitting outside with some wonderfulice-cream This is a special place for a special breakfast. while enjoying the beautiful Piazza.

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- 106 - - 107 - Cafe Greco: VyTA Boulangerie Italiana: Via Condotti, 86 Via Marsala in the Termini Railway Station At the beginning of the Piazza di Spagna This is an elegant oasis in the midst of the on the right side of the street. mahem of the Termini Station. This is the oldest cafe’ in Rome and famous If you’re waiting on a train, and want to as the haunt of writers, artists and intellec- have a safe spot for a nice breakfast, or a tuals in the 19th century. great glass of wine and an appetizer, this is This cafe’ still retains the faded grandeur the place. Service is terrific, and the light and has an elegant atmosphere. fare offered is perfectly accompanied by an array of very nice wines by the glass. Babington: Piazza di Spagna, 23. Made Creative Bakery This old-fashioned, genteel establishment phone tel: +39 06 98932195 at the foot of the Spanish Steps Via dei Coronari,25 serves English tea and cakes. Very nice at- http://www.madebakery.com mosphere and somewhat expensive. Open 9:00 am to 7:00 pm from Monday to Sunday. Not too far from to Piazza Navona. Tazza d’Oro: A nice place where to have a breakfast, a Via degli Orfani 82/8. brunch or only a dessert. Close to the Pantheon. One of the best Very special the cupcake (red-velvet), ask cafès in Rome. for Francesca she will be happy to give you the best suggestions A. Made Creative Bakery: Via dei Coronari, 25 phone +39 06 98932195 OUTDOOR MARKETS IN ROME www.madebakery.com STREET SHOPPING Near Piazza Navona, and a very nice place for breakfast, brunch, or just a dessert. Apart from being the most unique source Special Red Velvet cupcake! of souvenirs and consolation gifts Francesca will be happy to help you with for the friends you left behind, outdoor suggestions. markets are some of the most interest- Open every day 9AM to 7PM. ing places in Italy. Almost all of them of-

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- 108 - fer a collection of items that range from Rome (Via Sannio, week days): near-worthless knickknacks, to priceless A much more prosaic type of flea market works of art, from the specializing in clothes and personal acces- ancient to the post-post modern. Some sories. Great bargains, and even if you find markets are specialized, but all welcome nothing, you can wander next door to San visitors, and you are encouraged to have Giovanni in Laterano, the Pope’s personal fun bargaining in English, church. Italian, sign language or any combination of the above. A word to the wise: keep your money and DAY TRIPS NEAR ROME valuables stashed under at least one layer of clothes. Who wants to spend TIVOLI the whole time worrying why all How to get there: those people are jostling you? by car - take Via Tiburtina (S-5) from the GRA (the autostrada circling Rome.) This Rome (Porta Portese, every Sunday of goes directly to Tivoli and passes Hadrian’s the month): Villa en route. by train - take the train for This is one of Europe’s famous flea markets. Avezzano and Pescara from Rome’s Termi- Basically, there’s nothing you can’t find here, ni Station (one single run in the morning); from used Russian phonograph records to the ride to Tivoli is 40 minutes long. The priceless kilim rugs (sold out of the trunk return service operates until early evening. of the car that travels to Turkey every other The Tivoli Gardens includes Villa D’Este, its month to buy them.) fountains and gardens, as well as Hadrian’s But get there early and be prepared to walk Villa, built in 125 AD, and defined as “The for miles. A great place to have lunch after- most lavish imperial villa of all antiquity.” ward, especially in the summer when you Also known as Villa Adriana, it is an excep- can relax under the grape arbor, is Da Albi- tional complex of classical buildings creat- no il Sardo all’Angoletto, on Via della Luce, ed in the 2nd century A.D. by the Roman just off Viale Trastevere. emperor Hadrian. It combines the best This Sardinian restaurant’s antipasti are elements of the architectural heritage of fabulous but pricey; we suggest the deli- Egypt, Greece and Rome in the form of an cious mallureddu or any other pasta dish. ‘ideal city’. The villa covers more than 120 They cost less. ha on the slopes of the Tiburtine Hills. It was

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- 108 - - 109 - originally occupied by a late Republican vil- and is some 36mt in diameter. The small cir- la, the property of Hadrian’s wife, Vibia Sabi- cular temple is situated in a large semi-cir- na. The imperial residence was built over it cular exedra. The second group, including in AD 118-38. It was a symbol of the power the Maritime Theatre, Court of the Libraries, that was gradually becoming absolute, and Latin and Greek Libraries, Imperial Palace which distanced itself from the capital. and Golden Square, is the core of the com- After Hadrian’s death in 138, his succes- plex, aligned with the Vale of Tempe. The sors preferred Rome as their permanent various elements are grouped round four residence, but the villa continued to be peristyles. The Maritime (or Naval) Theatre enlarged and further embellished. Con- is a circular structure 43mt in diameter; the stantine the Great is alleged to have re- Ionic marble peristyle encloses a circular moved some of its finer pieces to his new moat surrounding a central island with a capital, Byzantium. The villa was sacked miniature villa. and plundered by successive barbarian The Court of the Libraries, the oldest part of invaders and fell into neglect, being used the ensemble, is a colonnaded portico with as a quarry by builders and lime-burners. a nymphaeum on its northern side. The two Interest in the ruins was rekindled in the ‘libraries’ are reached by passages on either 15th century by Pope Pius II (Aeneas Silvi- side of the nymphaeum. The palace con- us). Excavations to recover its glories were sists of a complex of rooms around a court- ordered by Alexander VI at the beginning yard. The Golden Square is one of the most of the 16th century. impressive buildings in the complex: the When Cardinal Ippolito II d’Este began con- vast peristyle is surrounded by a two-aisled struction of his nearby Villa d’Este he con- portico with alternate columns in cipolli- tinued the excavations, supervised by his no marble and Egyptian granite. The third architect Pirro Ligorio, to obtain works of group comprises the Pecile, Stadium and art to adorn it. The many structures are ar- its associated buildings, Small and Large ranged without any overall plan within this Thermae, Canopus, Serapeum and Cento area. They fall into four specific groups. The Camerelle. The Pecile (or Poikile) is a repro- first group includes the Greek Theatre and duction of an imposing structure in Athens, the Temple of Aphrodite Cnidi. The theatre, famous for its paintings and its associations which is in a good state of conservation, al- with the Stoic philosophers, which consists though only fragmentary, is of convention- of a large rectangular enclosure. Part of its al design. Its cavea is cut into the hillside massive walls survives; having colonnades

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- 110 - on either side. In the centre was a rectan- mona. The birthplace of Ovid and the town gular pool enclosed by a free space, per- where “wedding confetti” originated, nuts haps used as a racetrack. The two sets of covered in sugar. These are then made into baths are conventional in form. The smaller flowers or given to guests at weddings. It is is considered to have been used exclusively very interesting to visit the Museum of the by women. The Canopus is an elongated Pelino factory, the oldest Confetti factory. canal imitating the famous sanctuary of The drive to Sulmona takes you through Serapis near Alexandria. The semi-circular the Abruzzi hills and is beautiful in autumn. exedra of the Serapeum is located at its southern end. The fourth group includes ORVIETO the Lily Pond, Roccabruna Tower, and Acad- How to get there: emy. The tower is a complex of buildings, by car - from Formia, take the road toward the purpose of which is not clearly estab- Cassino to get to the A1. Take the A1 to- lished. In addition to these structures, there wards Rome. When you see the sign for A1 is a complex of underground elements, in- Firenze, follow the A1 north of Rome as far cluding cryptoportici and underground as the Orvieto exit. by train - from Formia galleries, used for internal communications to Orvieto take a direct train from Rome’s and storage. Termini Station (trains depart several times A number of the ancient structures are in the morning for the seventy-five minute overlaid by a series of farmhouses and oth- trip to Orvieto.) These trains are marked for er buildings, mostly from the 18th century. Firenze (Florence). Return service operates They were built directly on the earlier foun- until mid-evening. dations and it is difficult to dissociate them from the ancient structures. Orvieto is a Cathedral town perched on top of a plateau overlooking the Umbrian countryside. Started in 1290, this remark- DAY TRIPS NORTH OF ROME able edifice was originally planned in the Romanesque style, but as work proceeded SULMONA and architects changed, Gothic features How to get there: were incorporated into the structure. by car - head toward Cassino. From Cassino, The black-and-white marble banding of the take the road to Venafro and then Carpino- main body of the church is overshadowed ne. Before Carpinone, take 17 north to Sul- by the rich rainbow colors of the facade. A

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- 110 - - 111 - harmonious blend of mosaic and sculpture, *It is not advisable to go by train as it would plain stone and dazzling color, it has been be too difficult to carry all your purchas- likened to a giant outdoor altar screen. The es. Deruta is a town known for its ceramics. building took 30 years to plan, and three Ceramic art is one of man’s most ancient centuries to complete. It was probably activities. Countless works have been cre- started by Fra Bevignate, and later additions ated in our country using just a handful were made by Lorenzo Maitani (responsible of clay and a little fire. From the definition for Florence’s cathedral), Andrea Pisano and by Giuseppe Liverani, a ceramics expert, his son Nino Pisano, Andrea Orcagna and who uses the term “ceramics” to denote Michele Sanicheli. The great bronze doors, “the earth on which human workmanship the work of Emilio Greco, were added in and the consolidating action of fire inter- the 1960s. Inside, Luca Signorelli’s fresco vene, to transform it into objects with a cycle, The Last Judgement, shimmers with practical and ornamental purpose derives life. Look for it to the right of the altar in the identification of the three elements the Cappella di San Brizio (admission €3,00 necessary for the process whereby clay closed during Mass). Signorelli began work is transformed: earth, human workman- on the series in 1499, and Michelangelo is ship, and fire”. Hence it may be said that said to have taken inspiration from it. In- the ceramic art is, above all, the expression deed, to some, Michelangelo’s masterpiece of a manual activity which, if originally of runs a close second to Signorelli’s work. The a practical character only; subsequently Cappella del Corporale houses the blood- however became primarily ornamental. Its stained altar linen of the miracle, preserved very nature, fragile, yet not perishable, has in a silver reliquary which has been deco- meant that in the subsoil of various areas rated by artists of the Sienese school. The inhabited by man, even in remote times, walls feature frescoes depicting the miracle, strata containing ceramic fragments have painted by Ugolino di Prete Ilario. been built up over the years. A careful archaeological survey of these remains can provide us with an impressive amount of DERUTA data which may be used to build up a pic- How to get there: ture of the socio-economic, as well as artis- by car - take the A1 past Rome towards Firen- tic, characteristics of the life of a particular ze. At the Viterbo exit, go east towards Terni group of people. It should also be said that on 204. Before Terni, take the E45 to Deruta. even though pottery, being an expression

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- 112 - of human workmanship, is considered an the heart of Umbria, a short distance away artisan product, in many cases, over the from Perugia, it stretches along the Via Ti- course of the centuries, man has created berina, which, following the path of the unique artifacts of such beauty that they Tiber leads to Rome. Its strategic position can be defined as genuine masterpieces. If in the vicinity of a communication route the ceramic art is one of the oldest in the which has always represented one of the world, then Italy without doubt represents major road axes of central Italy, has indis- one of the most distinguished birthplaces putably played a role of the utmost impor- of this human activity. In countless villages tance in its productive development. and kilns, new techniques have been cre- Information provided by Anna ated and tested, new clays experimented with, new shapes designed, new enamels How to get to downtown Rome from Ter- and new glazes tested, new colors used, mini Train Station: and new decorations designed and painted. Against this backdrop, in a position of • Take the metro inside the station, a floor the utmost importance and distinction, lies below the trains arrival/departure Deruta, without question one of the most noble and ancient centers of ceramic pro- • Take the line in the direction of Lepanto duction, whose name is in fact celebrated not only by scholars and enthusiasts, but • Barberini, Piazza di Spagna, Piazzale Fla- is now known worldwide. For centuries its minio (close Piazza del Popolo): kilns have been turning out outstanding all these stops are in downtown Rome. masterpieces, housed in museums, in private collections and antique galleries in all • Lepanto is the stop closest to the Vatican. five continents, and today, more than ever before, tourists flock by the thousands to *Please note that most local businesses in Rome visit its factories, the museum and the ar- are closed on Monday mornings. tisan workshops lying at the foot of the old village, as undeniable proof that, despite the passing of time, Deruta has managed to preserve unchanged those characteristic traits which have made its name ac- claimed throughout the world. Situated in

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- 112 - - 113 - WELCOME TO GAETA RECIPES AND CULINARY CULTURE

WELCOME TO GAETA WELCOME TO GAETA This section offers a variety of recipes, and sil in the center and serve. approaches to the Italian kitchen. The first The original Pizza Margherita, and of course few sections are local recipes, and offer in the colors of the Italian Flag in honor of some great insights and options. the queen.

The last section is from Aorangi’s galley, and PANZANELLA NAPOLETANA: is more of a “what works on a boat” sort of Moisten the “fresella” with water in a bowl collection of recipes from the Italian kitch- until it is softened but not mushy en. These recipes include ideas from other Add olive oil, salt, Gaeta olives and basil cruisers that have left there favorites with Add cut tomatoes and toss lightly. us, and some of our best tried and trues Sliced sweet onions (optional) from over the years as well. Prepare an hour in advance to allow it to absorb all of the flavors. We will update this section as new ones come in, and the yacht and it’s author will always be mentioned of course. OUR CULINARY CULTURE by Nicolina Di Ciaccio Buon appetito! APPETIZERS - Antipasti IMPORTANT NOTE Crostoni with Mozzarella and Anchovies For linguistic help with Italian in the kitchen and - Crostoni di mozzarella ed alici Spread a beyond, you can find all you need at: www.italiancookingdictionary.com/ small amount of butter, along with a few slices of salted anchovies and a slice of mozzarella on slices of bread. Place them PIZZA NAPOLETANA: on a cookie sheet and bake them for about Spread the dough in a greased pan, until it 10 minutes. They will be ready when the is thin and even. cheese is melted and the bread is toasted. Spread diced tomatoes “pelati di pomo- doro”, oregano and salt, and bake for Marinated Swordfish - Pesce spada marinato 30 minutes at 180° C. (this really depends Slice a fresh swordfish thinly, and marinate on your oven so watch closely) it in lemon juice, vinegar, and salt for two Mozzarella should only be added during days. When it has been thoroughly mari- the last few minutes. Add a leaf of fresh ba- nated, drain, dry and dress the swordfish

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- 116 - with olive oil and freshly chopped parsley. drain, and mix with a simple tomato sauce. As it has been marinated in acidic dress- Add the scampi with their dressing and mix ings, it will need no additional cooking. It thoroughly so that the pasta will absorb makes a wonderful appetizer on slices of the flavor. Before serving, add some more toasted bread. chopped parsley as a garnish. Mussels with Lemon - Cozze al limone Fisherman’s Spaghetti - Spaghetti alla pescatora Place live, cleaned mussels in a covered To start with, prepare a simple sauce using pot without water. After a few minutes, the fresh tomatoes, and let simmer. shells will open; those shells that did not In a frying pan, fry calamari, prawns (shelled open should not be on, a dash of pepper, and slightly pre-cooked), mussels, and clams and chopped parsley. (both shelled as well), with garlic and olive oil. Add chopped fresh parsley and a bit of chili pepper. FIRST COURSES - Primi piatti When the spaghetti is al dente add equal parts of the tomato and fish sauce. Spaghetti with Clams - Spaghetti alle vongole Clean fresh clams and place them in a covered pot with half a ladle of water on the SECOND COURSES - Secondi piatti stove. After a few minutes, they should open. Be sure to keep the Seafood Soup - Zuppa ai frutti di mare broth that results from cooking these clams, Prepare in a pot the base: olive oil, garlic, as it will be used later. Shell the clams and chopped tomato, chili pepper, and a dash sauté them in a skillet with olive oil and a of salt. few cloves of chopped garlic. Add some of When it is partially cooked, add the seafood the broth, some chopped parsley, and very of your choice (mussels, clams, razor clams, little chili pepper. When the pasta is al den- and/or any other shellfish) already cleaned te drain and add the clam sauce. Serve and opened. immediately and enjoy it! Finally, add the broth that resulted from cooking the shellfish and let simmer. Linguine with Shrimp - Linguine agli scampi Fry the shrimp in oil, garlic, chopped pars- Clam Sauté - Vongole aglio e olio ley, and a small amount of chili pepper. After cleaning the clams, place them in Cook the linguine until they are al dente, a pot or saucepan with garlic and olive

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- 116 - - 117 - oil. Cover and cook until the clams have Trifolati Mushrooms - Funghi trifolati opened (about 10 or 12 minutes). Wash and chop mushrooms into bite-sized Add a splash of vinegar and some chopped pieces. Fry them in garlic, oil, and a small parsley. amount of anchovy strips (or paste) in a Serve immediately. frying pan. After about 15 minutes (when Sea Bass and Potatoes - Spigola in crosta di patate the water from the mushrooms has evapo- Prepare the potatoes by slicing them very rated), add salt to taste. Before serving, add thinly and dressing them with olive oil, salt, a small amount of chopped parsley. and a bit of pepper. In a baking pan, spread the potatoes along the bottom. Place raw fillets of sea bass (with the bones al- TRADITIONAL RECIPES OF GAETA ready removed) and cover with additional by Nicola Tarallo and Nonna Maria dressed potatoes. Add about half a cup of water and some more olive oil, and bake for ANCHOVY FISHBALLS - Polpette di Alici: about 20 to 30 minutes at 180°C. When it is Makes about 20 fishballs ready, the potatoes will be dry, well-cooked, ½ lb. fresh anchovy filets and brown. (1lb. If whole to be fileted) 2 pieces of dried bread 1 egg SIDE DISHES - Contorni pinch of salt chopped fresh italian parsley Roasted Peppers - Peperoni arrosto 2 tblsp. grated parmigian cheese Place whole peppers (red, yellow or or- 1 clove of garlic ange) in a baking pan and bake them at a pinch of grated lemon rind minimum of 160°C. When the peppers’ skin vegetable oil for frying is seared on one side, turn over. white wine for marinading The peppers should stay in the oven for at fine bread crumbs for coating least 30 minutes. When they are ready and soft, remove and let them cool. Then re- - Filet anchovies if not already done. move the skin and seeds - Place on a plate and cover and cut into narrow strips. Dress with salt, with white wine for about 10 minutes olive oil and basil. Eggplants and ripe toma- - Soak dried bread in water until soft, toes may be prepared in the same manner. then squeeze out and crumble

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- 118 - - Strain well and chop anchovies fine the oil and milk to the beaten egg mixture. - Add salt, parsley, garlic, egg, - Gradually whisk in the remaining flour parmigian, lemon rind, and bread little by little, until completely added. - Mix well - Sift the Pane degli Angeli (or baking - Roll mixture into small fishballs powder + vanilla) into the mixture, stir- - Roll fishballs in fine bread crumbs ring until incorporated. - Fry in boiling oil - Pour the mixture into a well buttered - Serve warm angel food cake pan or bundt pan. Be sure that the batter does not reach more EASTER CAKE - Tortano di Pasqua: than halfway up the sides of the cake pan, Serves 12 to allow for rising during cooking. Prep Time: 40 min - Bake for 35 minutes. Cook Time: 35 min - Let the cake cool in the pan. 2 ½ cups cake flour - Invert the cake onto a serving plate. 1 cup granulated sugar - Prepare the Glaze: Whip the egg white 4 eggs into a froth, add the powdered sugar ¼ cup olive oil and beat until smooth and creamy. ¼ cup milk - Brush the glaze over the cooled cake A pinch of salt and decorate with sprinkles. 1 teaspoon vanilla extract or cinnamon 1 (16 gram) packet Pane degli Angeli (or MIMOSA CAKE substitute 3 tsp baking powder + ½ tsp va- 1) Buy a medium sized Pan di Spagna. nilla extract) 2) Make a 4” opening in the center, using 1 1/8 cups powdered sugar, for the glaze a spoon to remove the whole center from the cake. Save the piece from the - Preheat oven to 360° F. 4” opening. The cake will look like a box. - Separate 1 egg and reserve the white for 3) Fill the hole in the cake with whipped the glaze. cream, and add little pieces of chocolate. - With an electric mixer beat 3 eggs and 4) Cover the opening with the top that was one yolk, sugar, salt and vanilla or cinna- set aside. mon extract, in a medium sized mixing 5) Cover the entire cake with whipped bowl until smooth. cream, then sprinkle with the rest of the - With a whisk, add a little of the flour, plus Pan di Spagna crumbs

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- 118 - - 119 - CIANFO’ NOTES FROM AORANGI’S GALLEY: Serves 6 by Jayne and Co. ½ kg eggplant ½ kg red bell peppers 400g potatoes Only recipes that have been enjoyed on one 2or3 ripe tomatoes boat or another and in good company are Salted capers, gaeta olive, garlic, basil, olive oil, salt shared in this chapter. Galley safe.

- Cut up vegetables and place in saucepan - Add a cup of water, desalted capers, pitted SOUPS olives, basil, garlic, oil, and salt lightly. So one asks, why start with soups? That’s so - Cover and cook medium heat 30/40min. - not Italian! Not true at all... and not only is Stir now and then. Serve warm. it true that the soups are amazing in Italy, - Optional a sprinkle of Parmigiano. they are also easily transformed (as are most things in the true Italian kitchen) into a saute, COOKING CLASS: a sauce, or a base for something else all to- Nicola Tarallo organizes cooking classes to gether. The best thing about the “homestyle” teach traditional Gaeta dishes. “ La Tiella”. La Italian kitchen is that it’s as vast as your cre- Tiella is the most distinctive dish in the city ativity! Ex: I never throw leftovers away, as of Gaeta - kind of a double crusted deep they get converted into appetizers of some pizza or pie. Traditionally it’s made with sort or another, with a little help from an egg, seafood (squid, anchovies or catch of the bread crumbs and some oil...but we’ll get to day) or vegetables. Any seasonal vegeta- that later with the “leftovers” chapter;-) ble is suitable for la tiella: zucchini, escarole On to the soups, and as always we feature and spinach are popular favorites. Its name cruising favorites from other galleys too! comes from the pan in which it is baked. In Gaeta, the local dialect uses the word “tiel- Awatea Cream of Pumpkin Soup la” to refer to a pan with low sides which (Crema di Zucca) flare out. Therefore, the dish created in this John / Auckland NZ pan is also called tiella. Nicola also teaches (serves 8) Christmas and Easter Cake Baking. Nico- la’s contacts: Mobile: 3402518721 e-mail: 1 large onion chopped [email protected] 1 tbsp. butter

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- 120 - 1.5 kg of pumpkin squash cut into pieces Pepper 1 large potato cut into pieces • Put sliced onions in melted butter 1 tsp. of curry powder (chinese if possible) and saute chicken stock • Add flour and mix 1 carton 200ml of coconut milk or heavy cream* • Add 2 lt. water or light stock salt and pepper to taste • Cook for one hour parsley garnish • Mix lightly with mixer or pimer • Whisk in egg yolk • Saute the chopped onion • Prepare bowls with a slice of toasted in butter for 5 minutes bread (preferably tuscan style), a hand- • Add pumpkin, potato pieces, ful of shredded emmental (swiss cheese) curry powder and stir • Pour hot soup over this and then sprin- • Add chicken stock enough kle with parmigiano and freshly ground to cover pumpkin pepper. • Bring to a boil then simmer Buon Appetito. for 30 minutes • Let cool and then blend until pureed Note: the cheeses are salty so careful about salting the soup itself... • Add coconut milk or cream • Adjust salt and pepper Ventotene Lentil Soup • Garnish with parsley and serve (Zuppa di Lenticchie alla Ventotenese) Anna / Il Giardino Tuscan Classic Onion Soup (serves 4) (Zuppa di Cipolla Toscana) Jayne / Aorangi 350gr. tiny reddish brown lentils (serves 4) (Ventotene has amazing ones) 2 cloves of garlic 4 onions 5 cherry tomatoes 2 tsp. flour 1 stalk of basil 80gr butter 1 stalk of celery 1 egg yolk 4tblsp. e.v. olive oil Toasted bread hot pepper* (optional) Emmental salt to taste Parmigiano

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- 120 - - 121 - 60g slab bacon diced* (optional) • Place all ingredients together in a pot of e.v. olive oil very good untreated water salt with the exception of the oil and salt 1lt. good water • Cook for 50 minutes • Add oil and salt and cook additional 10 min- • Warm oil and saute leeks or onion, utes (this allows the lentils to remain soft) celery, and slab bacon • Add the rest of the vegetables washed Note: the lentils SHOULD NOT be soaked in advance! and drained, and saute for 4 minutes • Add water and cook for 30 minutes Spring Vegetable Stew (Cianfotta alla Ventotenese) Tuscan Vegetable Soup Candida / Il Giardino (Minestrone Toscana) (serves 4) Jayne / Aorangi (serves 4) This is a recipe, that like minestrone, has a version for every region of Italy, and also in Minestrone is as different from town to France. And like minestrone, it’s fun to exper- town as are the dialects of the language, so iment with what you have on hand, or avail- there’s almost no limit as to what you can able in the region you’re in. throw in this soup. This version is with the first spring veggies But seeing I started cooking inTuscany and from this area. with Artusi we’ll begin with a similar version to what’s been done for the past sever- 4 potatoes cut into medium pieces al centuries... 6 small artichoke hearts quartered (violet or spiny artichokes if available) 1 clove of garlic 200g fresh peas shucked 1 stalk of celery (appx. ½ kg in pods) 3 leeks 300g fresh fava beans shucked 2 carrots (appx. 7oog in pods) basil 2 leeks or wild onions sliced 30g bacon diced or prosciutto 1 stalk of celery diced or sausage meat* (optional) 10 stalk of wild asparagus cut into large pieces

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- 122 - 250g white bean or borlotti beans Potato and Leek Soup (if fresh ½ cook them first) (Zuppa di Porri e Patate) 250g swiss chard (bietole) Jayne and Grandma / Aorangi 250g savoy cabbage (verza) (serves 6) 250g black cabbage (cavolo nero)* This is a great pressure cooker soup just in e.v. olive oil case you’re under way salt and pepper to taste and need something nutritious and fast. *can be substitutes w/cauliflower **You can also add a zucchini, 2tblsp. butter (unsalted if possible) pumpkin but in modest doses as they are sweet... 4 leeks cut into small slices, only white and light green part • Prepare a chopped base of celery, 1kg potatoes diced leeks, garlic, carrot, and 1 small carrot diced basil and saute in oil 1 ½ lt chicken or vegetable stock • After a few minutes bay leave, thyme, parsley, add meat and continue cooking garlic in mesh ball infuser • Puree a small amount of the beans salt and pepper to taste • Cut the balance of vegetables in small strips and • Melt butter over medium heat add them to the saute • Add leeks and stir until soft about 10m • Add the bean puree without browning and the whole beans and mix • Add potatoes, stock, herb ball, salt and pepper and bring to a boil • Add add a small amount • Turn heat down and cover and simmer of hot water and until potatoes are done. About 15-20m check salt and pepper • Remove herb ball • Cook for at least ½ hr. • Serve as is, or puree’ with pimer or blend- • At this stage you can cook er until smooth pasta or rice in the soup • If desired heavy cream can be added, but if you like, but feel it’s best this is optional served hot with croutons • Garnish with homemade croutons and grated parmigiano cheese.

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- 122 - - 123 - Neopolitan Beans and Pasta This is a favorite old recipe when things came (Pasta e Fagioli Napoletana) from Grandmas’ garden, but if you’re lucky Jayne / Aorangi you can still find organic peas around, which (Serves 6) is imperative for Peapod Soup. Peas can be used elsewhere, as this only calls 350g canellini or borlotti beans cooked for the peapods. Did you know that botani- 250g pasta ‘maltagliati’ or ‘pasta mista’ cally peapods are a fruit? So I guess this is a 1 clove garlic fruit soup! 1 stalk of celery 6 cherry tomatoes 600g peapods (from 1kg. total appx.) basil 2 potatoes e.v. olive oil 4-5 spring onions or 1 scallion sale and popper e.v. olive oil salt and pepper · If using fresh beans cook al dente · Strain beans and place in saucepan · Clean peapods of head and center filament · Cover with fresh water · Cut peeled potatoes, onions and well · Add garlic, celery, tomatoes, basil washed peapods into pieces · Once boiling simmer for 10 min. · Cover with enough water to cover well · Raise heat · Bring to a boil then lower to simmer · Add pasta and oil, and cook for 10 min. · Cook for about 1hr. or until all is soft · Add pepper, check salt · Strain or pass through a sieve to obtain · Turn off, let stand for 5 min. and serve cream without the filaments · Serve with a drizzle of olive oil and Always a hit! homemade croutons

Cream of Peapod Soup We obviously didn’t have olive oil growing (Vellutata di Bucce di Piselli) up, so that’s the Italian touch ;-) Jayne / Aorangi You’ll really be amazed at how good this is, (serves 4) and good for you. Buon Appetito!

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- 124 - Homemade Croutons e.v. olive oil Jayne / Aorangi salt fresh ground pepper Make a lot as they keep for a while if you store *hot pepper (optional) them in a dry place. 4 slices of good bread

1kg bread (Any good bread works and · Clean the mussels with a brush or knife no need to be fresh from the day) under running water. The shells need to 1c. e.v. olive oil be cleaned of parasites and growth. 3 cloves garlic · Take out the “beard” pulling up toward 3tsp fresh or dried thyme the rounded part of shell. salt · Chop a good bit of parsley with all but pepper one piece of garlic for rubbing the toast. additional herbs to taste · Wash and chop the tomatoes removing seeds first · Take herbs, salt and pepper and mince · Heat oil in large high wall fry pan together until well blended · Add garlic parsley chop and saute · Cut bread into cubes and place in bowl · Add tomatoes, a pinch of salt and cook · Place Herb mix in Olive oil and mix well for about 10/15 min stirring often · Drizzle over bread and mix constantly · Toast bread and rub with garlic set aside · Add mussels to mix on hig heat until all Place bread cubes on baking sheet in warm have opened stirring to assure even heat over no higher than 110°C as they need to dry (only takes a few minutes for this part!) out cooking slowly. This will take a bit of time. · Add a little *hot pepper here if desired 1hr. or more. Store in a sealed dry container · Place mussels in single bowls with the toast wedged in at the side, a grate of fresh Mussel Soup pepper, and garnish with fresh parsley (Zuppa di Cozze) · Serve hot Jayne / Aorangi · I always make a few extra toasts just in (serves 2) case, and they’re usually gone...

1kg fresh mussels This base can be used as a pasta sauce or 2 cloves garlic risotto base as well, just careful cooking it 500g ripe tomatoes down as the mussel “milk” is potent and gets bunch of Italian parsley stronger when concentrated.

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- 124 - - 125 - Beans and Mussel Soup Irish Seafood Chowder (Zuppa di Cozze e Fagioli) Jayne / Aorangi Jayne / Aorangi (serves 4) (serves 2-4) This is our tried and true St. Patrick’s aboard 1kg mussels Aorangi chowder, so hope you like it! 500g cannellini beans cooked 5 cherry tomatoes 450g white fish filet (cod is best in Gaeta) 2 cloves garlic 225g mussels or clams or mixed ½ scallion 125g prawns* (optional) 100g slab pork diced* (optional) 110g salmon filet e.v. olive oil 25g butter 55g bacon* (optional) · Clean mussels and remove beards 1kg vegetables onion, leek, carrot, potato · Place olive oil and 1 clove of garlic in saucepan and saute 570ml water · Add mussels and cover raising heat until 570ml milk all mussels have opened (few minutes) 90g kerneled corn* (optional) · Remove from shells and strain liquid · Puree a small part of beans and set aside · Cut all fish into 1cm cubes · Place olive oil a remaining garlic, scallion, · Dice all vegetables about the same slab pork and saute · Clean mussels shells and remove beards · Add tomatoes chopped coarsely and · Cut bacon into small strips* cook for about 10/15 min. · Melt butter, add bacon* and cook to crisp · Add puree of beans, beans, and mussel · All all vegetables but potatoes and sweat liquid and cook about 10 min. them for appx. 5 min. · Add mussels and cook until heated a few minutes · Add water, potatoes and milk and sim- · Add a grated fresh pepper and serve. mer until potatoes are soft · Add all the fish, and shellfish, and cook Times are really appx. As you will see when for 3-5 minutes things are ready in each phase. · Check seasoning Important not to overcook the mussels! · Serve with chopped parsley or chives

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- 126 - This can be modified by adding a small boiled meat with a variety of condiments. amount of cream and a bit of saffron as The Italian favorite is fresh green sauce. well. And can be easily varied with shellfish (Salsa verde, recipe follows) and fish in type and quantity, depending on what’s available fresh. This basic broth can be used in a variety of recipes from just adding some pasta, Stock of Capon (or other types too) rice, or cappelletti (tiny tortellini), or the (Brodo di Cappone) base for risotto, ragu, or gelatins. Or even Jayne / Aorangi to give a heartier flavor to many sauces just (serves 8) by adding ladle to your sauce when cooking and then letting it cook down. ½ capon or corn fed hen* (capon is more delicate) * for beef broth replace with 1kg 1 onion of mixed beef parts and a marrow bone 1 carrot (in Italy just say “manzo per brodo”) 1 stalk of celery * for mixed broth use ¼ chicken and ½ lb. 1 bay leaf or 2 stalk of Italian parsley of beef with a marrow bone 1 crust of parmigiano (ask your grocer) (in Italy just say “misto per brodo”) salt and pepper * for vegetable broth use more vegetables and if you can a net herb ball • Place all ingredients into a large kettle with herbs of choice and fill with cold water. • Bring to a boil and then cover and sim- In Emilia-Romagna this is a staple with mer for at least 4 hrs. cappelletti, or passatelli, or zuppa imperiale. • Check salt only toward the end to avoid All of these can be bought at larger super over salting. markets in Italy, but with the exception of • Strain and cool to remove eventual fat in cappelletti which are better bought from a part depending on taste. housewife or restaurant, passatelli and zuppa imperiale are relatively easy to make. Many ways to serve the meat used for the broth, but just one is to serve it as “lesso” or Recipes are available upon request to Jayne

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- 126 - - 127 - GOODBYE until next year

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- 128 - GOODBYE

Vietata ogni riproduzione. Testi a cura di Base Nautica Flavio Gioia - Gaeta - Italy

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