A Guide for Tourism Without Barriers 2008 Edition

a guide for tourism without barriers

Special Limited Edition in occasion Ask-it 12th Plenary Board Meeting Genoa, 27-28 March, 2008 With the contribution of Provincia di genova e Rizzoli Ortodepia

2008 edition Responsabile editoriale: Coop. Sociale La Cruna Testi, fotograﬁe, progetto graﬁco e realizzazione: Coop. Sociale La Cruna Rilevazione dell’accessibilità dei percorsi e delle strutture: Coop. Sociale La Cruna

La guida, compresa nel progetto “Genova, città accessibile”, è stata realizzata in collaborazione con la Consulta Handicap grazie ai ﬁnanziamenti di Genova 2004 Capitale Europea della Cultura e Fondazione Carige.

Edizione non in commercio. È possibile richiedere la guida a: Cooperativa Sociale La Cruna s.r.l. - ONLUS p.zza della Nunziata 4 16124 Genova tel/fax 010.2465517 [email protected] www.lacruna.com

Stampa e legatura: Azienda Litograﬁca Genovese Genova, marzo 2005

Quest’opera è stata rilasciata sotto la licenza Creative Commons Attribuzione-NonCommerciale-NoOpereDerivate. Per leggere una copia della licenza visita il sito web http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/2.0/it/ o spedisci una lettera a Creative Commons, 559 Nathan Abbott Way, Stanford, California 94305, USA.

GENOVA PER TUTTI NOI A guide for tourism without barriers CONTENTS

Foreword! Coop. La Cruna ...... 6 Why Genova? di Maurizio Maggiani ...... 7 How to read the guide ...... 8

9 THE ITINERARIES guided by Donata Bonometti A note on the Guide’s itineraries ...... 10 Itinerary A: from Principe to De Ferrari ...... 11 Itinerary B: the Aquarium and the Porto Antico ...... 19 Itinerary C: the old town ...... 29 41 THE GENOESE LIFESTYLE Friscieu, panissa, pesto and farinata ...... 42 The shopping streets ...... 44 The Genoese nightlife ...... 48 Walks: Corso Italia, Nervi and the Lanterna ...... 50 The events of the Fiera del Mare ...... 55 The city of theatres ...... 57 Genova from above: la Guardia and il Monte ...... 58 59 THE GREAT GENOESE The house of Cristoforo Colombo ...... 60 Andrea Doria e the Palazzo del Principe ...... 62 Niccolò Paganini ...... 64 Genoa in rhymes ...... 65 Memories in an open air museum ...... 67 69 ACCESSIBILITY PROFILES Criteria of accessibility ...... 70 Museums and exhibitions ...... 71 Theatres ...... 97 Shops and eating places ...... 100

103 PUBLIC TRANSPORT AND SERVICES Arriving in Genoa ...... 104 Moving in Genoa ...... 109 Information and useful numbers ...... 114 FOREWORD

Genoa, a concerned city, has produced a tourist guide that makes the most of the city’s accessible routes. The guide provides information on the city’s points of interest, paying particular attention to the accessibility of museums and tourist attractions, keeping people with special needs in mind. At the same time, it has evaluated interventions designed to disman- tle architectural barriers that will improve the liveability and accessibility of the city. After the success of the first edition, a second edition has been produced. The title “Genoa for all of us”, still holds significant political and cultural importance. This work is not merely an occasional tool aimed at helping a specific tourist target, but proposes a mode of regarding the city as an assigned space, to guarantee the same opportunities of accessibility for all. This concerns itself with the wider process of the city’s growth, which this guide aims to lend to its communicative capacity, information and cultural testimony. Dedicating two large parts of this guide to “Genoese Lifestyle” and “Great Genoese” illustrates both the honour and pleasure to communicate something of the vibrancy and rich culture of our city. One characteristic of Genoa is, as Maurizio Maggiani articulated so well, that it does not catch tourists with artificial hospitality and welcoming, but simply wins them with her modest and unique fascination, her captivating history and her sparkling lights.

6 WHY GENOA? by Maurizio Maggiani

Genoa invites nobody; Genoa gets undressed for nobody, screams to nobody and uses no perfumes at all since Genoa is a dour, disenchanted capital. But, Genoa has never rejected any- body among those who shored on its Ripa, and they were, and still they will be, a multitude of people from so many countries. Genoa is a great harbour welcoming anyone who has something to show, to say, to take and to hear, were it just a new word or a hidden slash of light. Were this the unique reason, Genoa would be worth a visit because there you are considered a human being, coming from somewhere else, looking for something and with something to offer: and this will be enough, with no need of the false hospitality lies of the reception halls. And then, there is Genoa that yields to nobody but lets people contemplate and even touch it. The city where life means utmost complications, where horizons are wider than the shar- pest look; the city where the light shines like nowhere else in the world, where shadows cannot be fathomed. Genoa: the indomitable beauty, the melting pot of styles, the place where streets get lost intentionally, where wonders appear, no matter why. Genoa, that you can never completely understand, that you will never admire enough, never live in its entirety. Genoa, the astonishment that bores nobody ‘cause it ends not..

7 HOW TO READ THE GUIDE

This guide introduces you to Genoa from three points of view. The itineraries: three easy routes around accessible Genoa in order to discover the monumental and landscape legacy of the city without nasty encounters (architectural barriers). Genoese Lifestyle: see the city through the eyes of those who live it everyday. See the streets where the Genoese go for a walk, go shopping or meet in the evening. The Great Genoese: retrace the routes of great historical personalities which were born and lived in Genoa; follow the footsteps of seafarers, poets and singers through the old alleys and in the shade of impressive architecture. Accessibility profiles: specially provided proﬁles inform you about the accessibility of tourist facilities and provide detailed information, retaining the guide’s appeal and clarity.. (n°) is the page number where you can ﬁnd information about the accessibility of the mentioned structure (www) informs that detailed information on a structure’s accessibility is available on www.terredimare.it Means of transport and services: accessibility of train stations, reserved parking and equipped buses: this section provides accu- rate information to arrange your arrival and stay in Genoa.

8 THE ITINERARIES

Guided by Donata Bonometti

For various days I lived in true ecstasy. Incapable of following a pre-arranged plan to visit the masterworks of the city, I abandoned these for the joy of this new environment in a manner that you could call musical. I have never seen anything like this Genoa!

Richard Wagner I percorsi

A NOTE ON THE GUIDE’S ITINERARIES

Genoa is one of the most vertical cities in the world, sloping down towards the sea from the Apennine Mountains, which run along thirty-four kilometers of coastline. The narrow stretch of land that is suited for building and the diffused interventions of restructuring the area have given life to this typical urban design that has always been the charm of the city. The recent interventions of upgrading the city’s pedestrian areas and tourist structures has made it possible to create different accessible itinerary for wheelchair users who wish to visit the principal monumental riches and walks of the city. The three journeys described in this guide cross each others’ ways more than once and can be seen as one single excursion.

A) From Principe to De Ferrari B) The Aquarium and the Porto Antico C) The Old Town

At the beginning of each journey, an outline of the route indicates the streets to be crossed, means of transport used and the museums that are included in the tour. At the end of the guide, a map of the city helps tourists ﬁnd their way around with a wide overview of Genoa. (n°) indicates the number of the page, on which information on accessibility of the mentioned structures can be found, or another page, which provides further information on the subject. The development of the itineraries has been contributed to by the PEBA (Project for the Elimination of Architectural Barriers), carried out in 2005 by La Cruna on account of the Department for Equal Opportunities of the City of Genoa. More info on PEBA on www.lacruna.com.

10 Itinerary A FROM PRINCIPE TO DE FERRARI

from Principe to De Ferrari A

Leaving from the Principe train station (105), which is overseen by a statue of Christopher Columbus (60) on Piazza Acquaverde, the route leads immediately to a magniﬁcent road. This is via Balbi, where a certain bohemian atmosphere can be felt with the vibrant and cheerful comings and goings of students from the nearby university. The streets are lined by bars and “focac- cerie”, but that does not take away any of its past glory and aristocracy. Half way down via Balbi on your right you will see the Palazzo Reale (88) that once belonged to the powerful Durazzo family in the 17th century. In the 19th century, it became the king’s palace, where the Savoia family spent their days in Genoa. The magniﬁcently furnished rooms of this residence, which today is a national museum, accommodate paintings of many different Italian and foreign artists (Van Dyck, Tintoretto and Guercino) and those of the Genoese School. The Palazzo Reale can still today be seen from its best sides, displaying the royal carriage in the foyer, a most picturesque hanging garden that faces the port and its precious ‘risseu’ (the characteristic Ligurian paving, made with sea stones), typical of that period. The various buildings of the 17th and 18th centuries can be observed while passing through via Balbi and should not be missed. Via Balbi leads on to Piazza della Nunziata, overseen by the imposing, neoclassical columns of the Chiesa della Nunziata.

Palazzo Reale, Sala degli Specchi 13 A from Principe to De Ferrari

After crossing the square on the right and continuing towards the tunnel, the last street on the right side is via Cairoli and appears in all of its austere elegance. Walk along this road until you reach the shop-front of one of Italy’s oldest bookshops, the ‘Bozzi’ (100), the shop used to be visited regularly by great authors such as Stendhal and Dickens, and was where one could consult the ‘emerotheche’ (rare collection of journals). The ‘Bozzi’ is at the corner of piazza della Meridiana. CASTELLO D’ALBERTIS From the Principe station the quarter of Castelletto can be reached by means of a public elevator (111) of the very latest generation. The design and construction was a unique project in Europe because it is possible to make use of the cable railway before changing into the elevator. The elevator arrives in corso Dogali, where the poet Eugenio Montale was born at number seven and where the ethnographic museum of the Castello d’Albertis (75) is located. This little Neo- Gothic castle was the residence of the Genoese explorer Cap- tain D’Albertis, who, in the 19th century, assembled all the objects and testimonies of his journeys to Oceania, Australia and Peru here. Artifacts include Mayan and pre-Columbian relics, and documentations about the lives of the Hope Indi- ans. A small but delicate collection of handmade objects, are displayed to great effect in the antique cisterns of the small castle. The residence of Captain D’Albertis offers rooms of unparalleled aesthetic and exotic taste and its public park faces the exciting panorama of the nearby city and harbor.

14 from Principe to De Ferrari A

This square was opened in the 18th century like the Strada Nuovissima, now called via Cairoli, to directly connect to the splendor of via Garibaldi, formerly known as via Aurea and Strada Nuova. Where today via Cairoli ends in piazza della Meridiana, there used to be vegetable gardens and private parks sloping down from the overlooking Castelletto and reaching to the outskirts of the old town. But mainly, these were citrus groves. The palazzo, which takes its name from the sundial painted on the façade dates back to the 16th century, unlike the front wall that was redecorated in the 19th century. Via Cairoli follows the delightful winding patterns of aristocratic palazzos and leads to the magniﬁcent via Garibaldi. This street accommodated Genoa’s most powerful families’ from 1500-1600. The palaces bask in brilliance after recent illuminating and glorify- ing restoration works. Palazzo Tursi, Palazzo Bianco and Palazzo Rosso now form a museums-complex. When visiting the Palazzo Rosso (85), do not miss out on the free 3D theatre: an impressive three-dimensional ﬁlm tells the story of the evolution of via Garibaldi in connection with the urban development of the city. Palazzo Tursi (85) is an ensem- ble of balconies, monumental staircases, terraced gardens and lounges - an assembly owed to the slope on which the Patrician residence was built in 1568. But also some of the other palaces belonging to private families, banks and institutions, such as the Chamber of Commerce, have an auspicious past. Palazzo Lomellino (number seven) can still be seen today in all its original beauty, displaying a stucco façade that dates back to 1560. via Garibaldi 15 A from Principe to De Ferrari

A perfectly preserved fresco was recently discovered on the first floor, in which Bernardo Strozzi represented the New World with rarely depicted scenes of cannibalism. In the hall- way, the fountain of Fetonte is connected with an overlooking roof garden. On Palazzo Lercari Parodi, at number three, two statues of Atlas guard the entrance. A façade made from the typical stone of the area, from Finale in Liguria, can be seen at number four - the Palazzo Cataldi, which today is the seat of the Chambers of Commerce. Further on, there are art shops, antique dealers and a place of fine culinary delights: the artisan confectionery ‘Villa’ (110) at the corner to vico del Portello sells delicacies including various preserves, candied fruits, chocolates, cakes and famous small, sugar-coated candies with fragrant drops inside. The walk continues towards piazza delle Fontane Marose. Imagine this place at the height of its time. There would have been a fountain and water flowing vibrantly surrounded by numerous medieval buildings. The sole survivor is the Palazzo Spinola dei Marmi, built in blocks of black and white stone, displaying statues of warriors and members of the family. In the neighboring piazza Portello, the public elevator (p110) can be taken to reach the viewpoint of the Spianata Castelletto.

Palazzo Spinola dei Marmi (piazza delle Fontane Marose) 16 from Principe to De Ferrari A

At the end of via XXV Aprile, a double pedestrian crossing allows access to the Galleria Mazzini, a “covered” street running parallel to via Roma. Built at the end of the 19th century, its Art Nouveau structure is very unique and, although not perfectly sustained, still shows its original renowned elegance. The masterfully decorated shop windows compete with each other inside the arcade creating an exceptional atmosphere. Upon reaching the top of via Roma, you enter what was the heart of the bourgeois city during the 19th century. The street houses some of Genoa’s most exclusive clothing fashion bou- tiques of established names. There are also historical shops that

SPIANATA CASTELLETTO From piazza Portello, in the surroundings of piazza Fontane Marose (110), an elevator leads to the platform - Spianata Castelletto (G4). The elevator’s stop is accommodated in a kiosk built in Art Nou- veau style, on the fringe of the belvedere. The earliest historical mention of the Castelletto, from which it takes its name ‘spianata’ (level ground), dates back to the tenth century. The fortress became a symbol of foreign rulers and suffered cyclic attacks and destruction several times. The Savoia family reconstructed it in the 19th century, but the Castelletto was ﬁnally lev- eled during the revolt of 1849. The 19th century residential homes were built in classic-mannerists style. The viewpoint of the belvedere Luigi Montaldo offers an emotional panorama of the port and the slated roofs of the old city. The Genoese ﬂock to the Spianata, especially in summer, for a taste the exceptional sweets that are sold there, such as the granite (crushed ice drinks) from ‘Don Paolo’ (100) and the panera (chilled cream desserts) from ‘Guarino’ (100).

17 A from Principe to De Ferrari

are regularly frequented by the Genoese and the neck-tie’s from ‘Finollo’ (100) are world-famous and sought-after by gentlemen all over Europe. After passing through the intersection of via Roma and via XXV Aprile again, the route continues past the Carlo Felice theatre from where a long, covered promenade leads down to the Academia Ligustica and via XX Settembre. Wind and rain inspired the architects and the town planners from the end of the 19th century and through the beginning of the 20th century. The planning of covered spaces such as this stretched feature in the town centre is an example of this. The arcade of via XX Settembre still shows traces of the splendid Art Nouveau, mosaic pavements. Art Nou- veau and Art Deco inﬂuences can be seen throughout the rest of via XX Settembre.

THE PALAZZI DEI ROLLI In 2006 the Palazzi dei Rolli and the Strada Nuova of Genoa have been taken into the list of the Unesco World Heritage of Humanity. This is a small universe of private palaces that date back to the period between 1576 and 1670, and which are so expressive and superb that the historian Ennio Poleggi stated that we are here dealing with a true and characteristic “repub- lican palace”. It was during those years that the Republic of Genoa was the centre for trades and journeys of Kings and important Personalities. Therefore, lists (or ‘rolli’) of public, luxurious lodgings were made and by method of drawing, noble guests were then allocated their accommodation. Today, 42 of the 80 palaces have been inscribed in the ofﬁcial list of the Rolli and are now part of the Unesco World Heritage.

18 Itinerary B THE AQUARIUM AND THE PORTO ANTICO

B ��

��

�� the Aquarium and the Porto Antico B

You are at the Principe train station (105), which received its name from Prince Andrea Doria (62), the military commander who governed and revolutionized the city in the 16th century. Walk along via Andrea Doria and cross the street at the first traffic light. On the opposite side be careful to watch out for a cou- ple of gaps in the pavement. Continue until you reach the underground station “Piazza Principe” and follow the recently improved pedestrian pathway. After reaching the first traffic light in via Gramsci, cross the road to the harbor side and turn westwards. After about 200 meters on your left you will see the Stazione Marittima (108) of Ponte dei Mille. This was the port of departure for thousands Italian emigrants between the middle of the 19th century until post-war times. As the transatlantic liners, such as the ‘Rex’ and the ‘Michelangelo’ that have taken to the open sea for so long, have passed their Golden Age, so has the tradition of cruises. The restored Stazione Marittima today welcomes indoor gala events and is well-worth a visit for the fascinating view through the glass doors onto the piers, where one can find an almost unchanged atmosphere since the good- byes, laughter and tears that emanated here long ago (to book: +39 010 2412534). Following via Gramsci eastwards, you will soon reach piazza della Com- menda. This is the first maritime station, founded in the year 1000. It used to link Europe with the Holy Land: the Com- menda di San Giovan- ni di Pré (77). Here, one can encounter the myths of the Crusades: soldiers and pilgrims used to spend their last days before departure here.

La Commenda di Pré 21 B the Aquarium and the Porto Antico

And legend states that one of those days, military leader Gof- fredo di Buglione set sail from here. Imagine how once the waves used to beat against the buildings whilst the ships would be moored at the docks. The building can be accessed via a steep ramp on the left, at the same level as the pedestrian crossing. The Commenda complex, whose original, exciting architecture dates back to 1180 and which has been meticulously restored, still contains traces of frescos from the 14th century, depicting the Lamb of God, dea- cons and seraphs, and the profile of a towered city that could be Jerusalem. Niches carved in the marble could have been used as storerooms for shields and armors. The Commenda was first used as a hospital, founded by the Order of San Giovanni of Jerusalem, today known as Knights of Malta. It provided shelter for pilgrims, but was also a place for treating the sick and poor. There used to be eighty beds, placed on two levels, leaning on the side wall to the church of San Giovanni di Pré(77), adjacent to the Commenda, so that the ill or the pilgrims could per- form their religious functions. On the lower level of the church, there are the rests of a pre-existing building known as the Santo Sepolcro that received the ashes of the Saint Giovanni Battista. The ashes were brought to Genoa by the Templar Knights in 1098 and remained there before being relocated to their final resting place in the Cathedral of San Lorenzo. In keeping with the subject of the departure, the Commenda today is home to International Centre of Italian Emigra- tion Studies.

Il Museo Galata 22 the Aquarium and the Porto Antico B

GALATA, MUSEUM OF THE SEA The new Galata Museum of the Sea (79) has its seat in the antique arsenal of the port. Here, the Republic of Genoa used to construct and launch its own ﬂeet. These walls have seen soldiers from all over the world, sailors and masters of the Genoese axe, slaves, convicts, ship-owners and traders for centuries. Today, seventeen great halls display spectacular reconstructions of ships and maritime environments, bringing a passed era back to life by introducing us to their stories and objects of the times. On the second ﬂoor of the museum, a brig-schooner of 33m in length can be boarded (also by disabled visitors) and there is an observatory, a great glass-roofed terrace on top of the high building, which opens towards the sky offering a 360° view of the city and port - an extraordinary panorama of Genoa.

Leave the Commenda behind, and enter the maze of narrow streets, which during post-war times used to be an area of ‘blind-alleys’, with its smugglers, nighttime bars for the sea- men, ﬁsh stands, and basement ﬂats with the red lights. The area has been improved and regained some of its former splendor of a noble past. Cross through via Antonio Gramsci and continue west towards the important building that will appear on the right, the Galata Museum of the Sea (79). You are two steps from the Expo in the Porto Antico. The Old Port was separated from the city and accessible only to dockworkers

Genova vista dall’Osservatorio del Galata 23 B the Aquarium and the Porto Antico

up until 1992. The challenging project designed by the star architect, Renzo Piano, has restructured the area to the joy of the Genoese. His mastery has created a point of architectural excellence and a striking tourist attraction. Genoa born Piano has revolutionized his city by opening the area known as ‘Porto Antico’. Today the fusion with the city is perfect. The Expo includes the Bigo, the Aquarium (71), the large festival square, the Bio-Sphere, restaurants and shops, including a fantastic bookshop (100).

L’ ACQUARIO DI GENOVA The Aquarium was built in the Porto Antico in occasion of the Expo for the 500th anniversary of the discovery of the New World. Genoese architect Renzo Piano designed the exterior of the Aquarium, while the interior was planned by the American Peter Chermayeff. The Aquarium of Genoa (71) is home to over 800 different water species exhibited in 70 tanks that can be viewed in their “natural” environments. It is the largest “submarine” tourist attraction in Europe. The Aquarium management, in agreement with the Aquari- um Foundation of Genoa, has pledged to raise public aware- ness about the correct administration of sustainable water resources. The exciting discovery of over 6000 marine animals, bred in their ecosystems, creates a truly unique experience.

24 the Aquarium and the Porto Antico B

The project of Renzo Piano has also rejuvenated the antique buildings of the Magazzini del Cotone. Abandoned for decades, they are now highly appreciated by the organizers of conventions and valued for the presence of the Città dei Bambini (Kids’ City ) (76), for the children’s library ‘De Amicis’, the Cineplex and some specialized nautical shops. Some cranes from 19th century can still be seen piercing the skyline and are testimonies to the productivity of the Genoa’s exact and characteristic maritime archaeology. The Magazzini del Cotone (where cotton and other goods were stored) have lost all their connotations to their former signiﬁcation as a place of heavy labor to become elegant and spacious venues for leisure and culture. The Porto Antico also offers a delightful, picturesque walk in the shade of palm trees that were shipped from North Africa and planted in 2001 and in the shelter of the mighty medieval city walls, called ‘Mandraccio’, which both divided and connected the port with the quartiere del Molo. The quartiere del Molo (Quarter of the Docks) has always been an area popular with the working-classes and used to be the ﬁrst maritime centre of Genoa, whose name derives from Janua, meaning ‘door’. The Molo Vecchio (Old Pier) was reinforced and expanded in 1500 and used to be considered one of the wonders of the city for its grandeur, still perceptible in the wall of Malapa-

25 B the Aquarium and the Porto Antico

ga, which appears in a famous post-war ﬁlm with Jean Gabin. Porta Siberia, built as part of Galeazzo Alessi’s project of the 1550’s, is today home to the Museo Luzzati (82). The Magazzini dell’Abbondanza, where the city’s government used to store goods to tack- le shortages, leans on the bumpy paving at the entrance to via del Molo.

Upon leaving the Porto Antico from the passage of the Carica- mento, there is the Genua Picta, a tradition of colors and stuccos, typical for the city during the Renaissance and Baroque periods that can be seen on the façade of the palazzo San Giorgio. Wander with serenity. The Gothic rear façade was the ingenious brainchild of the architect-monk Frate Oliverio. The monument was restored at the end of the 19th century by Alfredo d’Andrade, who was inspired by criteria of Romantic restorations in which true and exact reconstructions were the principal objective. The foreground of the palazzo dates back to the late 16th century, however the façade facing the sea was restored to its current state during the 1990’s. Its frescos narrate the story of the heroic feats of saint George protector of the city and were originally signed by Lazzaro Tavarone (1556-1641). A memorial slab at the back of the building here tells of the stay in the palazzo of the Venetian, Marco Polo who, in these rooms, dictated ‘Il Milione’- the famous narrative of his outstanding exploration - to Rus- tichello of Pisa. The Palazzo San Giorgio (which was originally named Palazzo del Mare, meaning ‘Sea Palace’) was constructed in 1260 by the order of the Captain of the people, Guglielmo Boccanegra.

26 the Aquarium and the Porto Antico B It then became the antique seat of the Bank of San Giorgio For centuries, this organization controlled the ﬁnances, and the intense maritime and commercial activities of the city and provided loans to kings all over of Europe. Palazzo San Giorgio is today the seat of the Port Authority of Genoa.

MEMORIES OF THE PORT di Amanzio Pezzolo I always walked around the docks, at the wharfs, getting as close as possible to the steam ships, to those little ones for the inshore navigation and to the big ones, the transatlantic liners. We were boys of the port and used to slip through at San Laz- zarino and at the Ponte Colombo or under the market of San Teodoro, to then swarm through the piles of goods stacked between the Doria and the San Benigno piers. Anything could be useful in those post-war days, which seemed to be never ending. Pieces of wood, leftover bits of coal, scrap- metal, any remains were picked up and carried to our hiding place in the ruins which still cluttered the quarter. During the good season we used to go past the lighthouse to the dock of Sampierdarena and sometimes to the mouth of the Polcevera River to swim. Everyone would be expecting the banana boat to ﬁll our bellies with somalite bananas. What a taste those little African bananas had, eaten in a rush behind a row of goods wagons! Amongst the stops of our excursions there were also

27 B the Aquarium and the Porto Antico

the maritime station, from where still thousands of migrants left for America and Australia. They used to stay there under these gigantic ships, the Augustus, the Giulio Cesare or the Federico Costa, expecting their turn to board. In the middle there would always be a man with an accordion, playing moving melodies. As I grew up I arrived at the Porto Antico, the Caricamento, the Mandraccio, Porta Cibaria, the Magazzini Generali and Porto Franco. I would work as a laborer in the workshops in the quar- ters of Maddalena, Vigne and Grazie, close to the port. We learned a trade and walked through every alley, every now and then a small bread with ‘farinata’ on the hand and an eye on the Roman matrons that are painted on the thresholds of the old portals. I have done this walk, these tracks, again and again, when at 18 I entered the ‘Compagnia Unica delle Merci Varie’ , carrying various goods, and started day by day to learn the trade of my life, the art of being a docker. A dockworker. From East to West, from the tip of the Embriaco pier to the bottom of the Canepa, behind hundreds of ship to be loaded and unloaded amongst the noise of the cranes and the smells of the goods, I have travelled the world, learned the names of countless foreign docks and got to recognize the colors of smokestack and the different shapes of bows.

28 ITINERARY C THE OLD TOWN

C ��

��

�� the old town C

Before leaving piazza Carica- mento and after admiring, once more, the rear of Palazzo San Giorgio, where a 17th century statue of the Madonna in a sumptuous niche seems to invite a walker to the street that leads us to the heart of the city, turn towards piazza della Raibetta. This small piazza, whose size is no exception amongst the squares of the old town, is rich in history. The name ‘della Rai- betta’ possibly derives from the Arabic sufﬁx ‘rab’ that indicates this place was formerly a grain market in the Middle Ages. This piazza “of passage” leads to the entrance of via San Lorenzo, a street that strikes with its characteristics of urban beauty. Its origins are ancient and evidence has been found in subsoil traces, suggest- ing this was formerly the site of Roman necropolises. The current palaces date back to the 16th century, however when the street was widened, more than two centuries ago, they were modiﬁed and their facades were reconstructed. The effect is nonetheless outstanding. Stuccos, decors, frescos and architectural patterns, angels and warriors, symbols of trades and aristocracy, in clear stone or in grey slates, in marble and in bricks, lead towards the Cathedral of San Lorenzo. In Piazza San Lorenzo, an ancient shop of textiles and drapes exposes typical Genoese designs (mezzeri). To enter the cathedral through its accessible entrance, continue along via San Lorenzo. Inside the monumental chapel lined with 15th – 16th century sculptures, are the conserved ashes of Giovanni Battista (presumably), that were carried by crusaders and brought to Genoa on their return from the Holy Land. The choir of San

31 C the old town

Lorenzo has a system of amplified induction for the hearing impaired. In the right nave an unexploded bomb can be viewed that crashed into San Lorenzo during the bombardment of the English fleet in 1941. As you observe the structure of the ancient Cathedral, you can notice that it displays first Romanic forms, then Gothic, fol- lowed by 15th century rosettes on the façade and the left tower and finally the loggia, dating back to the following century. Therefore, the work of centuries, with its beginnings in the 12th

THE CATHEDRAL OF SAN LORENZO The site of the Cathedral of San Lorenzo was known as a place of worship as early as 878 BC. Numerous reconstructions and reinventions have taken place here since then until 1400 and the bell tower was ﬁnished in the 15th century, while the interior decorations were not ﬁnished until the 19th century. The impressive San Giovanni side portal (dating back to the 11th century, the work of Lombardian masters) shows symbols representing Good and Evil incised in the marble. A bizarre and fascinating scene of the martyrdom of San Lorenzo can be seen above the entrance door leading to the piazza. Outside, small chimneys are visible. These chimneys were used to raise smoke on occasion of the remembrance celebra- tions of the patron saint. The statue of the knife grinder (12th century), and rests of sarcopha- guses from the 4th - 3rd century BC on the façade deserve a closer look. In the Museum of the Treas- ure of San Lorenzo (94) the Holy Basin is being conserved, originally brought to Genoa in 1101 by Crusaders. Made from Roman glass from the 1st century, the legend says that Jesus possibly drank from it during the Last Supper.

32 the old town C century, created a fascinating overlap of styles that can easily be witnessed in the architecture, such as the Gothic naves with Romanic columns. Frescos by Luca Cambiaso and Giovanni Battista Castello are Mannerist and Baroque testimonies, sur- round the impressive 19th century altar (built by Carlo Barbino who was also architect of the original Carlo Felice theatre), which sits under a dome designed by Galeazzo Alessi in 1536. Going back on Via San Lorenzo, continue up the street until you reach piazza Matteotti. The impressive building on your left at the end of the piazza is Palazzo Ducale (87), once home to Genoa’s political power. Today it is a venue for art exhibitions of international fame. This building has seen the work of dozens of masters throughout the centuries. The architect Andrea Cerasola, who was also known as ‘Vannone’, reconstructed the Ducale at the end of the 16th century, incorporating the medieval villas of the Fieschi, of the civil authority, of the Abbati and also the Tower. At the end of the 18th century, after a furious ﬁre, the central body was rebuilt using neoclassical shapes. The great charm of classical courtyards and columnades allowing perspectives of the open sky, harmonize with the results of 20th century renovation works, such as the ‘aerial stair’ - a spiral suspended ramp built in the 80s by the architect Giovanni Spalla. He radically restored the Palazzo Ducale, opposing this

33 C the old town

masterwork of contemporary interior design with the sumptuous stairway and vast steps that the doges would climb with slow and royal steps. Not to be missed are the apartment of the Doge and the Chamber of the Highest Council, where the political powers of the Republic used to gather. From the chandeliers to the frescos, the entire interior echoes the “magniﬁcence” and glory of those past times. Staying with the subject of power, the walk continues along via Tommaso Reggio (where also the Archbishop has his seat) to the “general quarter” of the Doria, piazza San Matteo. This is a jewel. The Church of San Matteo was founded in 1125 by Martino Doria, and renovated in the 16th century by order of Andrea Doria. The portal and the façade are inscribed with engravings that chronicle the achievements of heroic deeds of the very famous Doria family, who owned and occupied the two palaces opposite the church. The porticos of the palaces were once used as meeting places for business dis- cussions. For wheelchair users it is possible to enter the church, San

34 the old town C

Matteo, by contacting the parish personally (+39 010 2474361). Management will provide a telescopic ramp in front of the entrance. Inside the small but elegant church, the Deposition of Anton Maria Maragliano, a 17th century sculptor who specialized in painted wood statues, should not be missed. His lifesize sculpture ‘The Deposition’ is of a most natural character and depicts Christ, Giuseppe D’Arimatea and Nicodemo. It is also an exciting reconstruction of clothing at the time of the Messiah. On request, the parish priest will open a small cupboard safe, where a spade belonging to Andrea Doria, whose tomb is positioned in the bottom of the crypt, is kept safe. Continue down vico San Matteo until Campetto and then onto piazza Banchi, to the side of the Loggia you will see the beginning of via San Luca, one of the many alleys expanding throughout the Old Town, in which you will ﬁnd shops, bou- tiques and popular stores, catering for every age and each taste. Clothing and shoe shops are only interrupted by one small piazza where the private church of the Spinola family stands. The 17th century church is covered with frescos by Domenico Piola. The view from the front of the church includes PIAZZA BANCHI In some aspects, the Piazza dei Banchi (F6), still reveals in parts some of its original features. For example, the palaces of piazza Banchi were once adorned by open porches unlike the buffered porches standing today, and were occupied by retail outlets and banks. The Loggia dei Banchi, a splendid 16th century monument, was once the city’s stock exchange, providing a wide, open space for meetings of negotiating traders. The wide arcades were previously open and not enclosed by glass windows. The church of St. Pietro in Banchi, founded in the 10th century by the Ghibellini, burned down and was reconstructed in 1583 above a ground level used for retail as it is seen today. The church still maintains an elevated position and dominates in respect to the square that offers a daily book-market, also selling videos, second-hand CDs, DVDs and vinyl. There is also a stand that sells plants and ﬂowers.

35 C the old town

vico di Pellicceria on the left where the Palazzo Spinola (90), today a National Gallery, stands. Imagine entering this Patri- cian residence in the middle of the 16th century, when it was completed (and modernized in the 18th century). You would see your reflection in the huge mirrors, reaching high, and extending to the ceiling. They were brought all the way from Paris on request of the highly refined Margherita, who married into the Spinola family. The kitchen, complete with antique crockery, suggests the scents of an inviting banquet. Here we can even retrace the accounts, or peruse old shopping lists and menus. Unfortunately visitors who use a wheelchair cannot reach the annexed upper level as no elevator has been installed yet. The rooms in the palace hold all of their original beauty and fur- nishings, which almost makes you forget that this a museum. From Palazzo Spinola, follow the entire via Luca until arriving at the nearby and recently re- qualified via Lomellini. There are a number of great places to eat here. There is a focacceria (100) of the finest L’Immacolata in San Filippo Neri Genoese quality, a historic café (100) and a ‘latteria’ (100) where the students of the nearby university love to stop for a coffee with cream. At the end of the street it is advised to stop at the Oratorio di San Filippo Neri. The annexed church was reopened in 2004 and re-consigned to the Fillipini order, who constructed the oratory in the middle of the 18th century. Here you can admire a baroque statue of the Blessed Virgin, sculp- tured by Pierre Puget in 1670 and then donated to the Fathers

36 the old town C from Stefano Lomellini. The oratory is accessible to wheelchair users and is open on Saturday afternoons or on request by contacting the priests (+39 010 2465426). Via Lomellini passes the Museum of the Risorgimento, the birthplace of Giuseppe Mazzini (95). Via del Campo, leads away to the right and has famously been immortalized by Genoese singer-songwriter Fabrizio De André in one of his songs. The redevelopment of the street has highlighted some patrician renaissance resi- dences, still partially inhabited by noble families. The entrance hall of the palazzo Cybo (the façade is distinguished by dynamic stuccos in green, gold and peach) makes an impact with a statue of a Roman man that could be Scipione. Accounts of betrayal, blood and cruelty are at home in the small piazza Vacchero that takes its name from Giulio Cesare Vacchero, who conspired against the Republic of Genoa in 1628. He was later

THE HISTORICAL CONFECTIONERIES Sweetest Genoa. These names are considered the “temples” of Genoese patisseries. The sweets and confectionery outlets Romanengo (100) and Klainguti (100) are situated between Campetto and Piazza Soziglia. Giuseppe Verdi knew their specialties well, especially the ‘pandolce’, a sweetbread, and the traditional ‘sacripantina’ cake. The methods of preparation and recipes for the candied fruits, which the confectioners follow, date back to the Middle Ages. Peach, pear, prunes, and mandarins cultivated in Liguria, are candied following the Artisan secrets that allow for long-term conservation. The shop of Romeo Viganotti (100), a historical family of chocolate makers, is a little more difﬁcult to ﬁnd, however the experience is well-worth the effort. The shop is situated nearby Porta Soprana, in vico Castagna..

37 C the old town

DE ANDRÉ Fabrizio De André died aged 59, in Janu- ary 1999. Today the singer/songwriter rests in the cemetery of Staglieno (67) after having lived in Genoa for 30 years. He spent the second half of his life dividing his time between Sardinia and Milan. He loved and described the old city, and helped make it known throughout the world. He placed in music and poetry, the smells of the port and the protagonists of the old town alleys, the colour of the sea of Genoa, and the enigmatic beauty of its women. He resided in Albaro, where he lived in the luxurious villa Paradiso, owned by his entrepreneur father. He once wrote about his neighbor who lived at number seven in via Campo, this “graceful girl with eyes the color of leaves” . These words were once sung so tenderly by André . Via del Campo is a 15th century alley, where rich and poor used to live together. There is also a music shop founded by Gianni Tassio, an enthusiast and connoisseur of De André. The shop is also home to a per- sonal guitar of De André and some of his rarest recordings.

decapitated and his family was forced into exile. After the execu- tion, a public washhouse was constructed where his palazzo once stood. Via del Campo end with the two round towers of Porta dei Vacca. One tower displays Roman- ic carvings of eagles and mer- maids and is most probably of Pis- an origins; the other, has been enclosed into 18th century Palazzo Serra. Porta dei Vacca was part of the third circle of city walls, built around 1160 to defend Genoa Porta dei Vacca 38 the old town C from the threat of Federico Barbarossa. Before leaving the via del Campo, on your left, there is a display in a pharmacy window (100) with tools/instruments used by doc- tors, pharmacists and vets from the 17th century until today. Passing the Porta di Vacca, the street leads into via Gramsci, near the Metro station “Darsena”. From here you can reach the station “Sarzano” in no time by taking the underground in the direction “De Ferrari”. As you arrive in piazza Sarzano, the two- sided bust of Giano rising above an antique well greets you. And this is not by chance: they say that the name Genoa could derive also from Giano, while other interpretations opt for Janua, which means ‘door’. Others believe its origin comes from the Etruscan word ‘kanua’, which means ‘new city’. The square is dominated by the antique complex of the Sant’Agostino convent, of the museum with the same name and its modern architecture and of the church of San Salva- tore, which we see today deconsecrated, after it was bombed during the Second World War and remained without a roof for decades. Finally restorations have begun with a new and skil- ful décor for its façade. The Museum of Sant’Agostino (92), which incorporates part of this vast convent complex rises “around” the two cloisters. The ﬁrst is an extraordinary, medieval triangular arbour with an open gallery towards lowered arches and columns in black and white stone, while the second cloister from the 17th century is squared. Most unusual are the multicoloured tiles that cover the inside walls of the bell tower, similar to the church of San Giovanni di Pré (77).

39 C the old town It is the most important and most complete museum of Ligurian sculpture as its collection presents a testimony of art that reach- es down to its roots in the high Middle Ages. A remarkable sight is the funeral monument for Margherita di Brabante, who died of the pest in the 14th century. This is a masterpiece by Giovanni Pisano. But the museum is also worth a visit for the numerous works that have come from other ages and areas (such as France and Tuscany), and for the devotional sculptures and antique works made of wood and ivory. With help of the electric four-wheel scooters from the Mobility Service, people who have mobility difﬁculties can cope with the steep street that leads from piazza Sarzano to the House of Paganini. Continuing westwards, at the corner of Stradone Sant’Agostino on your right, you will see the Faculty of Architecture, which in ear- lier times used to be the seat of San Silvestro. According to the wide-spread legend of Jacopo da Varagine, the hero Giano, who arrived from Troy by sea, founded a fortiﬁcation here at Sarzano. As a matter of fact, excavations that were carried out in the area have brought to light numerous traces of the 5th to the 3rd century BC circle of walls. Ascending from piazza Sarzano through Archivolto San Silves- tro, after about 500m you will arrive at the Casa Paganini (Pagani- ni’s house) in piazza Santa Maria in Passione. More information on the great violinist Nicolò Paganini can be found on page 64 of this guide.

Casa Paganini 40 THE GENOESE LIFESTYLE

E ‘nt’a barca du vin ghe naveghiemu ‘nsc’i scheuggi emigranti du rìe cu’i cioi ‘nt’i euggi ﬁnché u matin crescià da puéilu rechéugge frè di ganeuffeni e dè ﬁgge bacan d’a corda marsa d’aegua e de sä che a ne liga e a ne porta ‘nte ‘na creuza de mä

E nella barca del vino ci navigheremo sugli scogli emigranti della risata con i chiodi negli occhi ﬁnché il mattino crescerà da poterlo raccogliere fratello dei garofani e delle ragazze padrone della corda marcia d’acqua e di sale che ci lega e ci porta in una mulattiera di mare

Fabrizio De André the genoese lifestyle

FRISCIEU, PANISSA, PESTO AND FARINATA

Genoese cuisine is best described as simple. It is especially valued for its skilled and balan- ced use of four principal, regional ingredients – flour, vegetables, olive oil and dried fish. These four key ingredients are the secret to Genoa’s authentic delicacies. Genoa’s pesto sauce is world famous. It is claimed that the secret recipe is impossible to imitate because the unique taste depends entirely on the quality of basil from the nearby village of Prà. Genoa also produces unmatched focaccias that can be tasted with cheese, onions or sage. Another dish that must be sampled is ‘sua maestà’ (meaning ‘his Majesty’) farinata. The farinata is prepared with chickpea flour, local olive oil, water and salt, and is cooked in a large baking pan in an oven, to make large flatbread. It is delicious with artichokes and bianchetti (tiny Mediterranean fishes). The sciamadde (literally meaning ‘flames’) are long-established shops and fried food stands that used to offer meals to dockworkers, the notorious camalli. These traditional take- aways can be seen as fast food outlets way ahead of their time. Baccalà Frisceu (traditional Genoese fried cod), stuffed zucchini and cuculli (soft, fried potato balls), are often eaten by locals on their lunch break whilst walking along the harbor or resting on a bank in the sun at the Por- to Antico. You will also find these traditional local delicacies under the porticos of Sottoripa (E5/6), located on the long promenade north of the Porto Antico. In this area

42 the genoese lifestyle you will also find many characteristic cafés and eateries that, due the old architecture of the premises, remain at times inaccessible to wheelchairs due to small steps or the width of their entrance. Where the bars have arranged it, you can take advantage of the many tables outside under the arches in every season. Immersed in the scents, tastes and aromas of the traditional Genoese cuisine, the medieval porticos of Sottoripa swarm with life and atmosphere. The shops and bars offer something for every taste. The shops include fish mongers, wine shops, cafés and artisan shops selling spices and dried or candied fruits, such as Armanino (101). Sottoripa almost has not changed with time and still buzzes with the vibrant traditions of dockworkers and sailors. The strong columns of Sottoripa hold above their arches ancient houses, their secrets and stories of centuries past. Tax evaders were tied naked to the columns as a form of public humilia- tion in the Middle Ages. ‘Friggitoria Care- ga’ (101), a popular and traditional eatery, is located on the Aquarium level on via di Sot- toripa, specializing Sottoripa in frisceu, fried sardines, fried cod and panissa. The famous ‘Gran Ristoro’ (101) is further along via di Sottoripa. The take-away has become a cult for locals, producing more than 150 different types of panini. The long-standing eatery ‘Antica Sciamadda’ (101) is located at the corner of via San Giorgio, from where the street continues up a slope. It offers traditional Genoese specialties including the torta Pasqualina in its classic version with chard or with artichokes. Further along in via dei Giustiniani, the small trattoria ‘Sâ-a-Pesta’ (101) makes incredible farinata, vege- tarian ravioli and pansoti al sugo di noci (filled pasta with a delicious traditional nut-sauce).

43 the genoese lifestyle THE SHOPPING STREETS Via San Vincenzo (L8) is a long pedestrian street that links Brignole train station with the monumental bridge in via XX Settem- bre. This suburb’s popular origins are evident in groups of traditional Genoese 18th and 19th century attached townhouses. The architecture also includes some 16th century buildings and occasional, early Roman influences and traces. The street offers countless clothing outlets for young people, gadget stores, jewelers and ice-cream parlors. If you are coming from the direction of the Brignole train station and are in a hurry, tasty snacks on the run are available from ‘Baretto Gallese’ (101) (located at number 42 red), where they make extraordinary paninis (especially the misto, meaning ‘mixed’ - with anchovies and sal- sa verde). For a piece of authentic Genoese focaccia, we recommend ‘Mario’ (101). The deep- via San Vincenzo rooted ‘Osteria Guglie’ (101) coo- ks typical Genoese, popular dishes, prepared after the original traditions, such as panissa (deep-fried chickpea bread) and farinata, boiled octopus and stuffed anchovies. There is also ‘Mannori’ (101) in via Galata (M7/8) on the right, a Tuscan- Ligurian restaurant that knows how to prepare with the same level of skill, specialties from both regions, including mandilli al pesto (Lasagne with Pesto) and ribollita (Tuscan, bean and vegetable soup), fiorentina (grilled T-bone steak) and stockfish. In via Galata, towards piazza Colombo, ‘Panarello’ (101) specia- lize in biscuits, cakes, biscotti and pandolce, a traditional butte- ry, bread-like Christmas cake from Genoa, filled with raisins and candied fruit.

44 the genoese lifestyle

The entrance to the Mercato Orientale is located on the right (L8), beyond the square, less than 100 metres from via XX Set- tembre. The market is located in a one hundred-year-old cast- iron structure, which you can enter easily. Dozens of brightly coloured stalls compete with their fresh fruit, vegetables, fish, meat and flowers. There are also places for local specialties, delicatessens, bakeries, and artisan shops. Exit the Mercato Orientale onto via XX Settembre. Via Cesarea and via Fiasella are located across the street. (L9) This shopping area is commonly called “quadrilatero”, meaning ‘squared’. Via XX Settembre displays obvious Art Nouveau influences with its sumptuously decorated buildings. The Genoese simply call this street ‘Via Venti’ (‘venti’ meaning 20) and love this promenade for its great shopping. The street is home to all of the famous Italian and international high street names. There are also historical stores such as ‘Cabib’ (101), which sells car- pets and beautiful textiles, such as mezzeri, antique draperies that the Genoese brought home from their journeys to Asia centuries ago. Here you will also find bookstores, such as Fel- trinelli or Mondadori and music store ‘Fnac’ (101). Further up the road, past the Church of Santa Maria della Consolazione (which has a system installed for the hearing impaired), you will arrive at the antique Crovetto (101), a shops that is not only famous for its cut-to-measure textiles but also for its retai- ned, nostalgic atmosphere in keeping with the era from when it was founded. From the Monumental Bridge onwards,

Il Mercato Orientale 45 the genoese lifestyle

stretching until Piazza De Fer- rari, welcoming porches and tempting shop-windows face each other and are highlighted by the elegant pavement, comprised of beautiful mosaics. Walk from Piazza De Ferrari following via San Lorenzo, thereby heading towards the Carica- mento and the harbour. Genoa’s most popular shopping quarter is located in the old town’s alleys. Continue to piazza Ban- chi (F6) just above the Carica- Piazza Banchi mento. This piazza offers stalls selling flowers, ethnic products, books, videos, DVDs and second-hand vinyl and CDs. On one side you can see the Log- gia dei Banchi, an important 16th century Classical building. San Pietro, a church also built in the 16th century, stands on the opposite side. It was originally built to commemorate the end of the plague and was constructed on the second level, over the shops that contributed to financing the work. At the entrance to via Orefici (F6), do not miss the great marble bas-relief that sits above the shop doors on the right. The small 15th century masterpiece of the Gagini masters depicts the ‘Adoration of the Magi’. Further on, a gorgeous marble bas- relief depicting the helmet of Mercury, a chalice and horns filled with fruit, fits between the two shop-windows of ‘Pietro Romanengo’ (102), famous for its artisan sweets, jams, candied fruits and syrups - prepared following ancient recipes and unchanged artisan procedures. Proceeding further, keeping Campetto on the right, you will see a 17th century palazzo complete with original décor, designed by the architect Bartolomeo Bianco. Nowadays, the bui- ding has become the department store ‘Upim’ (112). In this square you can find long-established stores, amongst which ‘Camisasca’ (102) is specialising in sporting goods. At the cor-

46 the genoese lifestyle ner of via Scurreria, the boutique, ‘Pescetto’ (102) offers exclusive English and French brands including Hermès and Aqua- scutum. Opposite, the Palazzo Imperiale is an imposing sight. It was built in the 16th century by the architect Castello (also known as Bergamasco), who also decorated the interior in stucco. The extremely spacious entrance hall is home to an antiques shop, full of rare and interesting furniture and objects from the 19th and 20th centuries In piazza Soziglia (G6) it is difficult not to be won over by the temptation of the aristocratic shop ‘Klainguti’ (102), a 19th century pastry and sweet shop with Swiss origins set in a glamo- rous Baroque environment. Here, Giuseppe Verdi loved eating his brioches that would call Falstaff, which is the name of the opera that he was working at the time. In the same small piazza, the shop-windows of the Sorelle Ascoli (102) show exclusive and fashionable lingerie. Continue towards via Macelli di Soziglia, where a large deli- catessen sells stockfish and baccalà, a traditionally prepared , dried cod. Amongst locals, it is said that ‘La Bottega dello Stoc- cafisso’ (the shop of the stockfish) (102) is the best place in Genoa to buy this cod, which is caught and processed in Norway, near the islands of Lofoten. This entire area is packed with focaccerias, small cafés, bars, sandwich shops, old pharmacies, ice-cream coun- ters and pizza stands.

Via macelli di Soziglia 47 the genoese lifestyle

THE GENOESE NIGHTLIFE

Twenty years ago, it would have been unimaginable that so many people in search of fun and entertainment would ﬁnd it in Genoa’s old town. These days, crowds of youths pouring through the alleys on Friday nights are commonplace. The changes have been brought on by the reorganization of the city centre, but above all, by the inclusion of pedestrian, and historical streets, such as via Canneto il Lungo (F7). The city’s encouragement to the establishment of bars, pubs, cafés, restaurants and clubs, has resulted in a vast range of options packed in this area, which cater for the most varied clientele: modern bars attract young people from all over the world; tables outside the bars are the perfect place to enjoy an aperitivo with friends and the various restaurants prepare delicious dinners for the whole family. The Café-Restaurant ‘Mentelocale’ (102), located inside the Palazzo Ducale (87), is one of many typical bars where a traditional aperitivo can be enjoyed even during the winter mon- ths, as there are tables in the palazzo’s covered courtyard. After enjoying a drink and some food from the buffet, you can exit the palazzo with an elevator onto the newly paved piazza Matteotti, take a right and continue down via San Lorenzo. Continue until you arrive at the Cathedral of San Lorenzo. From here, enter the small alley via Chiabrera (F7/8) on your left, which leads past many traditional bars and restaurants hidden in the little streets of this area. Take via Giusti- niani until you arrive in piazza del Ferretto and further on through the alleys onto piazza San Bernardo. Here you will see ‘Moretti’ (107), a deep-rooted bar that is very popular with the young Friday night crowds, who socialise and dance until late at night in an ambience of times past and Genoese history.

48 the genoese lifestyle

Piazza delle Erbe Before the ﬂow of the nightlife carries you onto piazza delle Erbe, the most popular piazza with the students of Genoa, be sure to enjoy a tasty crêpe from ‘Triskell’ (102), in via san Donato, or a delicious pizza in ‘Vico Biscotti’ (102). Finally arriving in piazza delle Erbe, within only a few metres of each other you have the choice of traditional drinks and bites from ‘Fulvio’ (102), the refreshing cocktails of ‘Bar Berto’ (102), the ‘Café Latino’ (102), and the artisan ice-creams of the ‘Cremeria delle Erbe’ (102), which is open until late at night. The mild climate of Genoa allows the bars to leave their tables outside throughout the seasons, transforming the piazza into a great, festive, lounge under the sky. For newcomers to Genoese nightlife, there are also bars and attractions in the vast and accessible area of the old port, the Porto Antico. Outside the ‘Bigo’, an accessible, public panorama-elevator from which a breathtaking 360-degree view of the city and its historical piers can be enjoyed, a popular night- spot is the terrace of the old palazzina del Millo where a rela- xed atmosphere is complemented by good music, a glass of wine and an outlook overlooking the nightlife of Genoa in the bars “Sul Fronte Del Porto” (102) The newly restored harbour side accommodates the ‘Mezzanotte Cocktail Bar’ (102), the Brasserie Porto Carlo (102) and a Sushi Bar and Restaurant

49 the genoese lifestyle

WALKS: CORSO ITALIA, NERVI AND THE LANTERNA

corso Italia

Corso Italia is an airy, enjoyable walk on wide and comforta- ble pavements that have recently been reconstructed. It winds from the quarter of Foce, where you will also find the Fair- ground of Genoa (55), all the way to Boccadasse, offering a fascinating panoramic view from Portofino to Capo Mele. The first point of interest is Punta Vagno, with its lighthouse. This area still mantains the rocky feature, which characterised the entire coastline before the construction of Corso Italia in the beginning of the last century. What used to be cliffs and sloping hills, today is the elegant residential area of Albaro. The small fortress of San Giuliano and the remains of the original defence walls are embedded in the hillside and can be viewed from further along the promenade. Erected between 1819 and 1831, today it houses the barracks of the Carabinieri, the Italian military police. Further down is the Abbazia di San Giuliano d’Albaro, a former abbey, which today is a Department of Art and Art Reviews. The abbey was founded in the 13th century by the Friars of the Minorite convent and was passed on to the Benedictine monks who expanded an existing building by con- structing an adjacent convent. After having been deserted for years, it has been fully restored and transformed into a monu-

50 the genoese lifestyle mental complex with beautiful interior and exterior decors and some traces of 15th century decorations. The residential architecture of Corso Italia is also visible on the mountainside. Quite impressive is the small castle with pagoda roofs, immersed in a park with oriental geometries, an evocative example of Deco ornamentation. Just before Boccadasse, you can see a villa (resembling television screens), which was designed in the rationalist style and “signed” by Daneri. The walk continues past a number of bars and ice-cream cafés before concluding in front of the Church of Sant’Antonio. The church is full of testimonies of maritime life and memories of the fishermen who lived in this perfectly conserved village, Boccadasse, overseen by the small church. Before descending the steep pavement that leads to this corner of paradise, it is possible to appreciate the conglomerate of old houses surrounding the small beach with the boats moored on the shore. In this quarter, protected from traffic, amongst the characteristic houses of fishermen next to the ocean, the maritime history and atmosphere is alive and rich.

Borgo di Boccadasse

51 the genoese lifestyle

The promenade of Nervi Nervi offers two con- trasting landscapes: the promenade by the sea and the promenade through the parks. The public parks can be accessed via the small street adjacent to the train station’s car park (109) from where a footpath leads also to the Anita Garibaldi sea promenade. Descend the steep paving, accompanied by the sea breeze that drifts over the wonderful promenade. Turn eastwards to the small beach of Capolungo, or walk in the opposite direction towards the characteristic marina of Nervi. The walk is a priceless pedestrian route leading closely along on the cliffs. Palm trees, maritime pines, bougainvillea and agaves frame the panorama of Camo- gli, Ruta and the promontory of Portoﬁno. Historical plates along the walk explain that this area used to be a winter resort due to its mild climate, and from the 19th century until the beginning of the 20th century is was the preferred holiday destination of many important aristocrats from Russia and England. The Saracen tower Groppallo stands along the journey to Capa- lungo. The 17th century tower was designed to withstand the attacks from pirates. The slightly odd, white building, resembling a ship, houses the bar-restaurant ‘Marinella’ (www), where Ligurian specialities are served. There are numerous bathing establishments, however only “La Scogliera” is accessible and

52 the genoese lifestyle the accessibility is limited only to the saltwater pool nestled amongst the olive groves. The pool can be reached from the park. The parks of Nervi are an eight-hectare Eden: a gorgeous blend of sumptuous 19th century garden architecture. Hundre- ds of species of exotic and Mediterranean plants help create a paradise for all nature lovers. Especially worth mentioning is the ‘Roseto’, a rose garden, located next to Villa Grimaldi, that despite its close vicinity to the sea and the damaging effects of the salt spray, is thriving beautifully and each year is enri- ched with more varieties, which can be adored over more than 10000 square metres. Other famous blooms include the San- dro, a deep red flower dedicated to the former Italian presi- dent Pertini; the Anita Garibaldi, with small pink flowers; the Sivigliana and the Soraya, the flower dedicated to the princess of Monaco. Three famed villas, the ‘queens of the park’, are easy to find from via Capolungo, but unfortunately are not easily accessible from the Anita Garibaldi promenade as they are connected with the park by stairs and sloped paths. The villas include Villa Luxoro, the summer residence of the royal Savoia family, Villa Grimaldi, now Raccolta Frugone Museum (91), and most importantly, Villa Serra, in which the Gallery of Modern Art (80) was opened in December 2004. The gallery displays 19th century paintings and sculptures by masters that were considered to be ‘ahead of their time’.

53 the genoese lifestyle

La Lanterna (The lighthouse) From the ferry port Terminal Traghetti Di Negro (108), a rai- sed path leads across a wooden walk, recently opened thanks to the Provincia di Genova, to the Lanterna. The walk towards the lighthouse is well maintained. It is then possible to walk along the sea, the port and the industrial sector of the city and to discover the city from a unique point of view. The ﬁrst lighthouse probably dates from the 13th century, a time when Genoa was already considered to be one of the most important ports in the Mediterranean Sea. The lighthouse was built in 1543 on top of the existing foundations and formed one joined complex with the great city walls, the Mura Nuove, from the year 1626. The lighthouse is built on two levels. Each level is crowned with a double series of brackets interrupting the ascending rhythm, making the agility of the structure evident. The restoration works carried out during the 1960’s highlighted 18th century fresco of the Genoese coat-of-arms. La Lanterna with its coat-of-arms is today the city’s symbol. At the conclusion of the walk, you can enjoy a view of the lighthouse and the remains of the old city wall. A 17th century watchtower is located adjacent to the entrance of the square. A closer view of the monument, sitting on the rocks, is accessible only via a steep asphalted ascent. Recent improve- ments in accessibility to the fortress have coincided with the opening of the Park and the Museo della Lanterna (81). The museum and park are easy to reach by means of electric scooters (113) and the park’s toilets are accessible to wheelchairs.

54 the genoese lifestyle

THE EVENTS OF THE FIERA DEL MARE The Fiera di Genova (Fair of Genoa) is famous for two shows of international reputation: the Salone Nautico and Euroflora. This is the only existing fairground entirely built on the sea and is equipped with multifunctional structures capable of hosting exhibitions, sporting events of worldwide recognition and large concerts. The complex is comprised of pavilions, open spaces, marinas and spectacular covered areas. The complex is undergoing expansion in the form of a pavilion, designed by Jean Nouvel. The design incorporates characteristics of tran- sparency and luminosity, which seems to blend in with the surrounding seascape, creating a visually fascinating background for future events. Euroflora, an exhibition of flowers and ornamental plants, is held at the fairgrounds every five years. The most qualified flo- riculturists and nursery gardeners from Italy and abroad tran- sform the fairgrounds into an immense multicoloured garden capable of attracting thousands of visitors.

The International Boat Show (Salone Nautico) is held annual- ly in October. The exhibition owes its fame to its size and quality, and is accentuated by the development of the new and exciting marina, now counting a total of 600 mooring sites. This event is a ﬁxed date for all who are passionate about the marine industry. Over 2000 boats are on show ranging from the smallest leisure boat to super-yachts, together with the widest choice of accessories and boating equipment. Amongst the latest shows added to the calendar, ‘Slow Fish’, the Sustainable Fishing, Expo organized by Slow Food, is one of

55 the genoese lifestyle

the most appreciated. This event is a journey for all of the sen- ses on which you can taste, learn, and understand the sea, its people, products and foods. Local, annual antique and art exhibitions are much loved by the Genoese and include the Antiqua, Tuttantico and ArteGenova. Other exhibitions, popular for combining shopping and fun, include Primavera Trade Fair, which offers each year from Mar- ch to April a complete panorama of interior design, arts crafts, hobby equipment and wine-gastronomy industries. Natalei- dea-Ideaneve is a Christmas market that offers endless gift ideas for shoppers ranging from crafts or gadgets to innovative sports equipment and travel packages. The Fiera di Genova is situated in the city-centre at the entrance to the port area and not far from the Brignole train station. The- re is a bus stop for bus line 19 at the entrance to the fairgrounds that links to the train station Brignole and the city-centre. Cur- rently, none of the bus lines going to the fair are equipped to transport wheelchairs. At the most important shows, disabled visitors can find a reception and information point on the left side of the entrance area serviced by Terre di Mare (115). This is an information point for people with special needs and for tourism without barriers, which also has a permanent office in the centre of Genoa. Managed by the Cooperativa Sociale La Cruna, the services offered range from general information, maps with special indications for accessible routes to the hire of electric four-whee- led scooters, which allow people who have difficulties walking, to move around the fairgrounds easily and independently. Area Fiera 56 the genoese lifestyle

THE CITY OF THEATRES Genoa was already known as the city of theatres prior to World War II when a great number of Genoa’s theatres were bombar- ded and destroyed. Since the middle of the 1980’s, reconstruction of the public theatres has fully reinstated Genoa’s former status as “The City of Theatres”. Today Genoa has two major public theatres: the Carlo Felice Opera House (98) and the Stabile ‘Teatro della Corte’ (98), a drama production theatre connected to Italy’s most prestigious drama school. Two excellent private theatres, Teatro della Tos- se (98) and Teatro dell’Archivolto (99), whose renowned productions are also invited to tour in Italy and abroad, contribute to the city’s cultural life. Both theatres enjoy experimenting with innovative plays and adaptations of contemporary literature such as Ian McEwan, Benni, Serra, Pennac and Altan. Passionate attention to contemporary drama distinguishes per- formances at other theatres including Garage (unfortunately inaccessible), Cargo (97) and the Hop Altrove (99). The recently restored Teatro della Gioventù (98), ﬁnanced by the Region of Liguria, provides a modern venue for cabarets, jazz and theatre in dialect. The private theatre Politeama Genovese (97) completes Genoa’s wide range of historical and contemporary theatres, providing popular comedies and musicals. Theatre lovers know that the ‘piazza’ of Genoa offers appro- ximately 7000 seats every night, an offer, which, per capita, rivals that of Lon- don and Paris.

Il Teatro Carlo Felice 57 the genoese lifestyle

GENOA FROM ABOVE: LA GUARDIA AND IL MONTE From the top of Mt. Figogna at the Santuario Nostra Signora della Guardia (www), the view of Genoa surrounded by its extensive frame of sea and mountains is majestic and mystical. The sanctuary remembers the day, in 1490, when the Virgin appeared to Benedetto Pareto and asked him to build a chapel on the mountain. The chapel has since transformed into a great (fully accessible) basilica in the style typical of the high Renais- sance period, comprising of a Latin cross structure and three naves. Beyond the frescos visible inside the church, it is worth paying attention to the hall of the ex-voto, for the singular variety of the objects left at the feet of the Virgin Mary, in grati- tude for her grace.

Il santuario della Guardia Another interesting gallery of ex-voto is on display at the San- tuario di Nostra Signora del Monte. The sanctuary conser- ves ﬁne artworks, amongst which is also the polyptych of ‘The Master of the Annunciation’ (1498), a painting by Domenico Fiasella and Bernardo Strozzi. The rich artistic heritage in the sanctuary (guided tours on request) is in part owed to the devotion to the Madonna del Monte by the Genoese noble families of the 17th and 18th centuries Salita Nuova Nostra Signora del Monte, a narrow and steep ascent, leads to the sanctuary located on top of a hill in San Fruttuoso. There are no buses to the sanctuary; however it is possible to drive. It is a short, but steep walk from the large parking area at the church along the road. On request (+39 010 505854), a ramp is ﬁtted to allow access to the church. Disabled visitors are also allowed to park the car in a small courtyard. Breathtaking views over the city can be enjoyed from the terrace.

58 THE GREAT GENOESE

Sotto la torre orientale, ne le terrazze verdi ne la lavagna cinerea Dilaga la piazza al mare che addensa le navi inesausto Ride l’arcato palazzo rosso dal portico grande: Come le cateratte del Niagara Canta, ride, svaria ferrea la sinfonia feconda urgente al mare: Genova canta il tuo canto!

Dino Campana the great genoese

THE HOUSE OF CRISTOFORO COLOMBO The so-called Casa di Colombo (Columbus house) stands in vico Dritto Ponticello, ascending from piazza Dante towards the Towers of Porta Soprana. The small stone house can be found in the modern heart of the city, between imposing 20th century skyscrapers. It stands adjacent to a small, reconstructed medieval cloister with ﬂowered anthropomorphous capitals. The site was once named the hill of Sant’Andrea. Popular legend states that this was the home of Domenico Colombo, a professional weaver, father of the famous naviga- tor who discovered America. Christopher Columbus was born on an unknown date in 1451 in vico dell’Olivella (the quarter of Quinto also clai- ms to be Columbus’ birthplace). He was christened in the thousand years old church of Santo Stefano, which is still in almost perfect condition and retains its original architectural essence, visible above the street from Via XX Settembre. Columbus moved with his family to the hill of Sant’Andrea when he was 4 years old. Since his father, struggled to feed the family, he therefore gratefully accepted the offer to work as a watchman at Olivella Gate. This way, he was allowed to live in the house, owned by the local monks. The house of Christopher Columbus was completely restored after a bombardment in 1684 by the King Louis XIV of France which destroyed half of the city. The house is dwarfed by the imposing Towers of Porta Soprana. Further up from Columbus’ house stands the original city gate between the two towers. A stone plate inscribed with the date of construction, 1155, quotes in Latin: ‘I am defended by true

60 the great genoese men, surrounded by wonderful walls and with my strength I repel the enemy’s arms; if you bring peace, you are allowed to knock on this door, if you bring war, you will go away disappointed and defeated’..

A NOTE ON ACCESSIBILITY: Unfortunately, the House of Columbus (H8) is currently not accessible to wheelchairs. Howevever, it can be seen from via Dante which leads to Piazza De Ferrari. The Towers of Porta Soprana can be accessed from the steeper via Soprana (coming from piazza Matteotti) or from via Ravecca (coming from piazza Sarzano) (39).

61 the great genoese

ANDREA DORIA AND THE PALAZZO DEL PRINCIPE

After extensive restoration works on the Palace of the Prince (p ) were completed in October 1995, the building was opened to the public. From both a historical and an artistic point of view, it is the most important monumental and decorative complex of 16th century Genoa. Inspired, and occupied by Andrea Doria, a great admirer and protagonist of European politics in the ﬁrst half of the 16th century, the noble residence is the only palace the Repu- blic of Genoa has known in the course of its age-old history. The Republic of Genoa owes important institutional reforma- tions to the strategist Doria. The admiral reconciled with the Spanish in 1528 and safeguarded the city’s independence. Also noteworthy was Doria’s role as a patron of the arts. He con- tracted Perino del Vaga to decorate his palace. Vaga was a student and collaborator of Raffaello, who brought the novelties of the Roman environment to Genoa, deeply inﬂuencing the following development of Genoa’s artistic culture and events. The visitors’ route leads past walls decorated in frescos from 1528 - 1533 by Perino, through the grand entrance hall, the Loggia of the Heroes (in which the most noteworthy personalities of the Doria family are represented), the Sala della Carità Romana, the Salone delle Caduta dei Giganti even into Doria’s four “private” rooms. Outstandingly evocative is also the Galleria Aurea, in which a series of the- med tapestries representing the Battle of Lepanto is on display, which was carried out in Brussels on cardboards by the great Genoese painter Luca Cambiaso. The rooms are furnished with elegant chandeliers and engraved ornamental spirals by Filippo Parodi, protagonist of the Genoese school of the 17th century, as well as with “show

62 the great genoese

furniture”. Furthermore, the famous portraits of Andrea Doria by Sebastiano del Piombo and of Bronzino are conserved here. Some of the halls in the east wing to the public, including the private apartments of Peretta Usodimare, Andrea Doria’s wife, have recently been opened. In the Hall of Neptune, the famous tapestry narrating the Stories of Alessandro Magno can be admired. The wall-hanging of circa forty m2 is considered one of the most important tapestries of 15th century Italy and has been weaved in Tournai, in Borgogna. Terraces oversee a monumental Italian garden dominated by 16th century fountains of Triton and Neptune, some of the numerous symbols of power of the admiral Doria. His palace is famous for not only its artistic heritage and the important architectural achievement but also for the memorable recep- tions and feasts Doria used to host. Popular reports state that after lunch, the used silver cutlery was thrown into the ocean. However, other malevolent accounts (by Alexandre Dumas) claim that there would have been nets pre-cast in order to recover the precious silverware..

NOTE ON THE ACCESSIBILITY: The pedestrian crossings that lead to the palace are not accessible to wheelchairs. More information regarding the accessibility of the Palazzo del Principe is available on page (86)

63 the great genoese

NICCOLÒ PAGANINI

Paganini, one of the most notable musi- cians of 18th and 19th century Europe, can definitely be called the absolutely “Grand” of the violin. He was an untiring traveller in an era in which the tale of the virtuous traveller hardly existed; a charismatic personality, fiendish according to the myths, crossing the whole of Europe proposing music with magical suspense, a master of dizzying virtuosity and the boldest harmonic inven- tions, destined to remain on the minds of composers such as Franz Listz or Schumann, who would carry the genius of Pagani- ni far beyond his own century. Great and Genoese, irreducibly attached to his city despite his home town’s restrained appre- ciation. In fact, Genoa assisted his exceptional musical career with detachment and even left his house and the entire quarter of Madre di Dio to become the victim of building works for financial interests during the seventies. Since 2004 Niccolò has a new home, Casa Paganini, situated in the former convent of Santa Maria in Passione, which is since its restoration used as a Paganinian auditorium-museum. Howe- ver, you will not find his famous Violin, the “Cannone”, here, which is kept save since his death in the also recently restored Palazzo Tursi (85). After the great, Genoese violinist has also been named one of the most important Violin Competitions in the world, the “Premio Paganini”. The winner has the incredible, exclusive honour and joy to play the instrument of the Great, the Genoese, Niccolò Paganini. NOTE ON THE ACCESSIBILITY: To reach the Casa Paganini in piazza Santa Maria in Passione (F9), which in 600 BC used to be the first urban centre of Genoa, we recommend to follow the route from Itinerary C, page 40.

64 the great genoese

GENOA IN RHYME

Genoa and the poets. Genoese by birth, by choice and, often by falling in love. From the great poets of the 20th century - Monta- le, Sbarbaro, Caproni – to the more recent names, who have combined the art of poetry with the art of songwriting, such as De Andrè, Paoli, Fossati, Tenco, Lauzi, to mention but a few. How could Genoa make such a vivid impression on artists and poets who lived here or even just stayed for a short while, like Dickens, Nietzsche, Campana, Rimbaud, Valéry or Frénaud? To this fre- quently asked question there are many possible explanations. There is the incredible mutability of its urban landscapes and their ever crossing architectural styles, from shady alleys to green corners overlooking an ecstatic, marine light: a city that never cedes to amaze. But to the aesthetic reasons can be added another more intimate. In the lyrics of many famous songwriters (when the cat of Gino Paoli jumps on the roofs of Boccadasse (51), or in the people of the narrow alleys populating the ballads of De Andrè) we per- ceive Genoa not only as a simple creative cue but also as the deep reason of poetics. This idea was condensed by Caproni in two lines: “Genova di tutta la vita / mia litania inﬁnita” [Genoa of my whole life, my endless litany]. At times, Genoa’s poets also let the pride of their belonging – not always a simple one – shi- ne through their verse, a pride that wants this city to be the origin and in some way the ﬁnal destination of their own artistic journey: “Signore di questo porto / lo vedi mi avvici- no anch’io, / vele ancora tese, ban- diera genovese, / sono io” (I. Fossa- ti). Lord of this port / you see I am getting close too / tight sails, Il borgo di Boccadasse

65 the great genoese

Genoese ﬂag /that is me]. There are three places in particular where Genoa’s past poets used to spend their time, and where her contemporary artists can still be found today. Towards the end of the 19th century and for most part of the following one, the Galleria Mazzini (17) and its cafés used to be the favourite haunts of Genoese literary debates. It was in the Caffé Roma that Guido Gozzano joined the Galleria Mazzini aesthetes of the beginning of the century, and there he wrote letters and verse on the café’s letterheads. In the middle of the gallery, a stone plate reminds of the encounter between Sbarbaro and Montale, which occurred here in the 1920s. Every summer the Palazzo Ducale (33) hosts the International Poetry Festival of Genoa, one of the most important international poetry events. Since 1995 this cultural event has appealed to many of the world’s most important poets, allowing the joy of poetry read by their authors, from Nobel prize winners to the newest voices from all over the world. Lastly, the company “Edizioni San Marco dei Giustiniani”, not only a publishing house, is a real poetry reﬁnery, thanks to the untireable cultural activity of Giorgio Devoto. Besides the important critical contributions and poem collections, Edizioni San Marco has the further merit of having issued a collection of all the poems dedicated to Genoa by Giorgio Caproni, with the title “Genova di tutta la vita”. The whole book resembles a decla- ration of love, a confession in verse of the “lancinante amore per Genova che mi ha strutto l’intera vita” [the piercing love for Genoa that has pined for all my life]..

66 the great genoese

MEMORIES IN AN OPEN AIR MUSEUM

Staglieno is one of the most important monumental cemeteries in Europe. Since its opening in 1851, hundreds of statues, expressing the artistic languages from Neoclassicism to Realism, from Symbolism to Art-Deco, have been collected here. The great bourgeois families of the 19th century entrusted their commissions only to most skilled sculpture of their time. Masters such as Santo Varni, Lorenzo Orengo, Giovanni Scanzi, Santo Saccomanno, Augusto Rivalta and Giulio Monteverde created tombs and statues of the most evocative, exact and lifelike resemblance of their loved ones. Women wrapped in cloaks, caught in an absorbing dance with death, young abandoned maids in the style of the new era and others, scantily dressed lying on a matrimonial bed; groups of families surrounding the death bed of a relative, man and women, ﬁxed for eternity in a moment of their everyday life or work, like the unforgettable statue of the nut-seller Caterina Campodonico in the lower arcade in the westerly part of the cemetery; the man with the twir- led moustache dressed in a frock coat and the lady wearing a crinoline and a feathered hat: these personalities of marble and bronze can be met in the arcades and ﬁelds, where they have been placed for eternity in their natural and typically Romantic background. The vast and varied grandeur of Mediterranean monumentality is here combined with beautiful clearings and groves of naturalistic northern-European cemeteries. The charm of this scenery has left a profound impression on artists such as Hemingway, Nietzsche, or Mark Twain who wrote in one of his travel journals after visiting Genoa “the last visit was to the cemetery, which I will still remember when I will have forgotten the villas”.

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It is therefore not surprising that amongst the thousands of unknown inhabitants of this city of the dead, also number of famous Genoese was buried in this fascinating place. Here, the singer-songwriter Fabrizio De André found his last rest, in ﬁeld 22 close to the side entrance, The architect Carlo Barabino, to whom is owed not only the ﬁrst design of the Staglieno cemetery but also numerous monuments of Neoclassical Genoa. Here rest also the musician Novaro, the dialect author Gilberto Govi and many protagonists of the Risorgimento such as Gari- baldi’s redshirts and the famous patriot and politician Giusep- pe Mazzini. Born in 1803 in the palazzo Adorno in via Lomelli- ni, the palazzo today hosts the Museum of the Risorgimento (95).

NOTE ON THE ACCESSIBILITY: To get to the Staglieno cemetery by car, take the motorway exit Genova-Est. The entrance and the paths in the gallery are accessible, however to use the asphalted road leading up the hill, visitors who use a wheelchair might need the help of another person. The busses to Staglieno are unfortunately not equipped with mobile ramps for wheelchairs.

68 ACCESSIBILITY PROFILES

Si cammina nella vita complicata di questi profondi sentieri come si entrerebbe nel mare, nel fondo nero d’un oceano bizzarramente popolato.

Paul Valéry Schede di Accessibilità CRITERIA OF ACCESSIBILITY

La Cruna has gathered and assessed information on all aspects of accessibility of a total of 500 structures, including museums, cinemas, theatres and accommodations in Genoa, as well as bars and restaurants in the city centre for people with special needs. On the following pages, profiles of Genoa’s museums and theatres summarise the results of the accessibility survey as well as information on the accessibility of the city’s commercial businesses mentioned in this guide. The profiles regarding accessibility of accommodations, restaurants, bars and cinemas can be found on the website www.terredimare.it. The most important measures taken for the accessibility profiles were: • entrance (height of steps where applicable, presence of a bell at the entrance, a ramp or a stair elevator); • elevators (doors >75cm, cabin>120 x 80cm); • equipped toilets (door >75cm and internal space>150 x 150cm, approaching space> 80cm, horizontal handbars). On Terre di Mare’s website, restaurants and bars have been sub- divided into three groups, according to the degree of their entrances’ accessibility: • level 1: level 1: premises with a step < 2.5cm high; • level 2: premises with a step from 2.5 cm to 4cm height or equipped with a ramp or handicap lift; • level 3: premises with a step between 4cm and 10cm height. This symbol indicates premises and structures of excellence, which means that they fully meet the law requirements of accessibility in regards to mobility impaired people . (D.M. 236/1989 e D.P.R. 503/1996).

70 museums and exhibitions ACQUARIO DI GENOVA

Porto Antico Area: Old Town (E-6) Phone: +39.010.23451 Web: www.acquariodigenova.it Entrance: open daily. Reduced entrance fee for visitors over 65 years and for disabled visitors; free entry for an accompanying person. Bookings: Incoming Liguria (+39.010.2345666). The Aquarium of Genoa (24) offers the longest “underwater” course in Europe, with 70 exhibition tanks and 800 different marine species that can be seen here in their “natural” environments. Arriving. By car: 20 meters from the Aquarium is a car park with 780 parking spaces. Public Transport: 250 m to the bus stop ‘Piazza Caricamento’ for bus lines 1, 12 and 13 (vehicles equipped with a mobile ramp); 150 meters from the entrance to the Metro station ‘San Giorgio’ (130). Accessibility. The structure is accessible to wheelchair users who want to move independently. The entrance for disabled visitors is situated on the ground floor left of the building. The Aquarium has special maps of the structure that inform on accessible services, exhibition route and equipped toilets. The Aquarium consists of two levels, connected through accessible elevators. A tactile tank where fishes may be stroked can also be reached from a wheelchair and is a particularly nice experience for visually impaired visitors. Guide dogs are welcome. Mobility Service. People with mobility difficulties can reach the Aquarium and move independently inside, using one of the 4-wheel electric scooters from Terre di Mare (+39.010.542098 – www.terredimare.it)

71 museums and exhibitions MUSEO NAZIONALE DELL’ANTARTIDE

Porto Antico Palazzina Millo Area: Old Town (E-7) Phone: +39.010.2543690 Web: www.mna.it Entrance: closed on Mondays. Reduced entrance fee for disabled visitors, free entry for an accompanying person. The museum introduces its visitors to the Antarctica and to Ita- lian expedition and research projects, with particular attention to the sectors of biology and ecology. The museum displays in an interactive and dynamic mode findings from the Antarctica, spectacular films and environmental reconstructions, leading visitors to an almost ignored, yet nonetheless fascinating and incredibly rich continent. Arriving. By car: 100 meters is a car park with 780 spaces; 100 m to the car park of the Magazzini del Cotone with 676 parking spaces. Public transport: 50 m to the Metro station ‘San Giorgio’ (112). Accessibility. The museum is fully accessible to visitors who use a wheelchair: the entrance is on the first floor of the Palazzina del Millo, which can be reached by an accessible elevator. Next to the entrance doors is an intercom to call the staff. The museum consists of one level, which is fully accessible. The toilets are accessible and equipped and can be found on the ground floor of the palazzina Millo.

Mobility Service. People with mobility difﬁculties can reach the museum and move independently inside, using one of the 4-wheel electric scooters from Terre di Mare (+39.010.542098 – www.terredimare.it)

72 museums and exhibitions MUSEO DI ARCHEOLOGIA LIGURE

Villa Durazzo Pallavicini Area: Pegli Phone: +39.010.6981048 www.museoarcheologicogenova.it Entrance: Mondays closed. Free entry for visitors under 18 years, on Sundays for residents of the City of Genoa; reduced entrance fee for visitors over 65 years and disabled (free entry for one accompanying person). The National Museum hosts the biggest collection of Ligurian archaeological findings from prehistory to proto-history; sepul- chres, Palaeolithic objects and a rich collection of the pre-roman excavations from around Genoa and Liguria, as well as a collection of Greek and Roman Antiquity and of the Prince Odone of Savoia. Arriving. By car: motorway A10, exit Genova Pegli. The museum has a parking area. Accessibility. Visitors who use a wheelchair can enter the museum over a ramp that will be positioned by the staff. As there is no bell outside the entrance, we advise you to call the museum in advance and let them know the time of your arrival. The museum consists of two levels, which are connected with an accessible elevator. The toilets are accessible and are situated on the first floor. For visually impaired visitors, there are touchable, three-dimensional models and Braille subtitles.

73 museums and exhibitions BIBLIOTECA BERIO

Via del Seminario, 16 Area: Centre (H-9) Phone: +39.010.5576010 Web: www.comune.genova.it Entrance: closed on Sundays. The library offers guided tours of the building and the bookbinding facilities. Thanks to the information technologies and the spaciousness of the Berio library, today this is both a technical library and a cultural centre. Amongst the services offered in the library, there is the Servizio TestLab, aimed at those who are visually impaired or blind. Here, books can be consulted using a video integrator and vocal synthesis software, it is also possible to hire out large letters printed books or Braille books. Individual Braille printing service is also available. All the services are free. Arriving. By car: two parking spaces reserved for disabled visitors are in the underground parking area. To access to the parking area call through the intercom at the gate (which is placed at a height of 160cm). The car park is connected with the library through an accessible elevator. Accessibility. The pedestrian road leading to the entrance is extremely steep for who uses a manual wheelchair on his own. The entrance doors open to the outside and are therefore difficult to open. The library has two floors, which are connected with an accessible elevator. The toilets o n the ground floor are accessible and equipped. Mobility Service. People with mobility difficulties can reach the library and move independently inside, using one of the 4- wheel electric scooters from Terre di Mare (+39.010.542098 – www.terredimare.it)

74 museums and exhibitions CASTELLO D’ALBERTIS

Corso Dogali, 18 Area: Center (D-1) Phone: +39.010.2723820 – +39.010.2723464 Web: www.castellodalbertisgenova.it Entrance: closed on Mondays except for bank holidays. Reduced entrance fee for disabled visitors, free entry for an accompanying person. Bookings: Incoming Liguria (+39.010.2345666) This is an extraordinary spot for a panoramic view of the city. Castello D’Albertis (14) recently renovated, offers you a look into the cultures of the world through its collections from Afri- ca, Oceania and America, displayed in the former XIXth centuy residence of Captain D’Albertis. Arriving. By car: the Castello has its own car park. Public Tran- sport: 50m to the Principe train station, from where a public elevator, the Ascensore di Montegalletto, leads up to the castle (111). Accessibility. The Castello is fully accessible for visitors who use a wheelchair and want to move independently. The museum consists of several levels which are connected with an elevator and ramps. The staff will inform of the routes to take. The accessible and equipped toilets are on the ground ﬂoor. Inside the museum is an accessible café (call in advance to ensure that it will be opened). Thanks to the recently improved pedestrian crossing in corso Dogali, people with mobility impairments can now reach the Castello and move independently. Mobility Service. People with mobility difﬁculties can reach the museum and move independently inside, using one of the 4-wheel electric scooters from Terre di Mare (+39.010.542098 – www.terredimare.it)

75 museums and exhibitions CITTÀ DEI BAMBINI

Magazzini del Cotone Modulo 1, first floor Porto Antico (C-7) Phone: +39.010.2475702 Web: www.cittadeibambini.net Entrance: closed on Mondays. Reduced entrance fee for disabled visitors and free entry for an accompanying person. Bookings: Incoming Liguria (+39.010.2345666) This is the first science centre in Italy for children and teens from 3 to 14 years. It offers two different routes, one for children from 3-5 years and another for 6-14 year olds, displaying static and dynamic elements for adults and children to interact, play and make small and big discoveries that are both fun and educational. The motto of the Kids City is simple and effective: “do it yourself or do it together to discover and learn while having fun”. Children can discover a small world full of excitement and useful answers to broaden their horizon and knowledge. The accompanying adult is meant to mediate these encounters. Arriving. By car: next to the entrance of the Magazzini del Cotone is a parking area with 676 spaces. Accessibility. The entrance of the Magazzini del Cotone is accessible and an accessible elevator connects to the first floor. The place consists of one level of 2700 m2. The toilets are also accessible and equipped. Baby changing facilities are also available. Mobility Service. People with mobility difficulties can reach the Kids City and move independently inside, using one of the 4-wheel electric scooters from Terre di Mare (+39.010.542098 – www.terredimare.it)

76 museums and exhibitions COMMENDA DI PRÉ

Piazza della Commenda Porto Antico Area: Old Town (C-2) Phone: +39.010.265486 Web: - Entrance: opened only on occasion of events The church and the Commenda of S. Giovanni di Pré (21) are one of the most important architectural ensembles of the Genoese Middle Ages and possibly one of the most complex for discussion of its history and origins. The church and the Commenda used to be occupied by Templar Knights, who were accommodated in the Commenda while the hospital granted shelter to pilgrims. The Commenda used to be connected directly with the church via internal doors. Built in the 12th century to give hospitality to pilgrims and knights on their journeys to the Holy Land, the complex, which has been restructured many times, consists of three levels. An exceptional place on the ground ﬂoor is the long, exceptional hall with high columns: the antique hospital. Arriving. 250m from the Commenda is the Aquarium’s car park with 780 spaces. Public transport: 100m from the Commenda is a bus stop for bus lines 18, 19 and 35, (vehicles not equipped); 150m to the Principe Metro station (112). Accessibility. The structure is fully accessible for wheelchair users who want to move independently. From via Gramsci, the street descends rather steep, leading to the arches. The commenda consists of two levels, which are connected with an accessible elevator. The layout, and hence the accessibility of the exhibition spaces, vary depending on the events.

77 museums and exhibitions MUSEO DIOCESANO

Via Reggio 20 r Area: Old Town (G-7) Phone: +39.010. 254150 Web: www.diocesi.genova.it/ museodiocesano/ Entrance: closed on Mondays. Reduced entrance fee for disabled visitors, accompanying person free. In the 12th century cloister of “Canonici di San Lorenzo” (32), the recently restored museum hosts numerous works of artists who represent a significant testimony of sacred art in Genoa. Amongst the works on display, there is the monumental tomb of the Fieschi family, the great panels by Gregorio De Ferrari, canvasses by Luca Cambiaso and Perin del Vaga as well as Ligu- rian paintings of the 14th and 15th centuries, archaeological finds, stone reliefs, relics, silvers and embroideries. Arriving. By car: 500m to the Aquarium’s car park with 780 spaces. 250m to the car park of Piazza Piccapietra with 500 spaces. Public transport: 200m to the Metro station “De Ferrari” (112). Accessibility. The structure is fully accessible to visitors in a wheelchair who want to move independently. The museum consists of two levels connected with an accessible elevator. The museum’s staff inform on the exhibition route inside. The equipped and accessible toilets are in the basement. Mobility Service. People with mobility difficulties can reach the museum and move independently inside, using one of the 4-wheel electric scooters from Terre di Mare (+39.010.542098 – www.terredimare.it)

78 museums and exhibitions GALATA, MUSEO DEL MARE

Porto Antico Area: Old Town (C-3) Phone: +39.010.2345655 Web: www.galatamuseodelmare.it Entrance: closed on Mondays. Reduced entrance fee for people over 65 years and disabled visitors, free entry for an accompanying person. Bookings: Incoming Liguria (+39.010.2345666) The museum (23) is situated in the old arsenal, where the Repu- blic of Genoa used to built and launch its own fleet. The museum stretches over 6000m2, illustrating the maritime development of the port and the city with spectacular reconstructions of nautical environments. Arriving. By car: 200m to the car park of the Aquarium with 780 spaces (109). Public transport: 250 m to the bus stop ‘Piazza Cari- camento’ for bus lines 1, 12 and 13 (vehicles not equipped); 50m to the Metro station “Darsena” (111). Accessibility. The structure is fully accessible to wheelchair users, although the entrance doors can be difficult to open and the paving is not always even. The museum consists of three levels, connected with an accessible elevator. On the second floor it is possible to explore a brig-schooner, thanks to a ramp that has been positioned next to it. For visually impaired visitors, mobile devices will be provided for a complete audio-tour vividly descri- bing their environment during the visit. The interactive, digital guide has a system which locates 79 different radiofrequencies and plays the audio-guide’s files according to the visitor’s location. There are accessible and equipped toilets on all three floors of the museum, although they are not adequately indicated. Mobility Service. People with mobility difficulties can reach the museum and move independently inside, using one of the 4- wheel electric scooters from Terre di Mare (+39.010.542098)

79 museums and exhibitions GAM - GALLERIA D’ARTE MODERNA

Via Capolungo, 3 Area: Nervi Phone: +39.010.3726025 Web: www.gamgenova.it Entrance: closed on Mondays. Reduced entry fee for disabled visitors, accompanying person free. The gallery is situated in the elegant 17th century villa Saluzzo Serra and is part of the Polo dei Musei and the Parks of Nervi (52). The National Museum hosts more than 4500 artworks, paintings, sculptures, sketches and woodcuts, dating from the beginning of the 19th century to today.. Arriving: By car: 2 parking spaces reserved for disabled people in via Capolungo next to the entrance of the museum; 130 spaces at the car park of the Genova Nervi train station (109), connected with the museum via a path through the park of ca. 400m (52). Accessibility. The entrance for people who use a wheelchair is situated on the right side of the building where a video-intercom is installed. The museum consists of three levels. The ground-level and first floor are connected with an accessible elevator, while the elevator that connects the first and second floor, has a non-automatic door (75cm) and the cabin’s dimensions are only 82x88cm, however it still is accessible. The toilets are equipped and accessible.

80 museums and exhibitions MUSEO DELLA LANTERNA Passeggiata della Lanterna Terminal Traghetti Area: Centre Phone: +39.010.910001 www.provincia.genova.it/lanterna/ Entrance: Saturday, Sunday and bank holidays from 10.00-18.00; weekdays on request. Reduced entrance fee for disabled visitors, free entry for an accompanying person. Inside the 19th century fortifications, built by Savoy as a protec- tion for the “Porta della Lanterna” (the lighthouse gate), in 2004 a modern multimedia museum has been set up, where visitors can experience memories and facts of the city of Genoa through a vast repertoire of archived and contemporary films and multi- lingual visual materials. Arriving. The museum can only be reached by foot over the Passeggiata della Lanterna (the lighthouse walk), which is ca. 600m long (54). The nearest car park is the Terminal Traghetti. Public transport: lines 1, 2 and 3 (vehicles not equipped). Accessibility. At the end of the path, you might need assistance to overcome the long slope that ends at the Park of the Lighthou- se and the entrance of the museum. Inside the museum-fortifi- cation, the pavement of the exhibition route consists of cobble- stones that can make it difficult to move in a wheelchair. The toilets are equipped, accessible and are situated in the adjacent Park of the Lighthouse, which can be reached with the assistance of an accompanying person. Mobility Service. People with mobility difficulties can reach the museum and move independently inside, using one of the 4-wheel electric scooters from Terre di Mare (+39.010.542098 – www.terredimare.it)

81 museums and exhibitions MUSEO LUZZATI A PORTA SIBERIA

Old Port Area: Old Town (D-7) Phone: +39.010. 2530328 Web: www.museoluzzati.it Entrance: closed on Mondays. Disabled visitors have free entry, reduced entrance fee for accompanying persons and visitors over 65 years. Porta Siberia used to be the old boundary between the city and the sea. Designed in 1500 by the famous architect Galeaz- zo Alessi, this modern cultural centre today hosts the Luzzati Museum, named after the Genoese set-designer and illustrator Emanuele Luzzati. The museum consists of scenic materials, designs, illustrations that show the innovative productions of a lifetime in relation with Genoa herself. Arriving. By car: right outside the museum: car park “Porta Siberia”; 50m from the museum: car park Magazzini del Cotone with 676 spaces; 200m to the car park of the Aquarium with 780 spaces. Public transport: 100m to the Metro station ‘San Giorgio’ (111). Accessibility. The museum can be accessed thanks to the assistance of the staff who will assist you overcome a step of ca. 8cm to reach the second entrance in via del Molo. However, there is no bell outside the museum to call the staff. Therefore we advise you to call the museum before you arrive. The museum consists of one accessible ﬂoor; the toilets are equipped and accessible.

82 museums and exhibitions MUVITA - SCIENCE CENTRE

Viale Marconi, 165 Area: Arenzano (30km from Genoa) Phone: +39.010.910001 Web: www.muvita.it Entrance: on Mondays and Fridays opened only on request. Reduced entrance fee for disabled visitors, free entry for an accompanying person. The Muvita Science Centre was born 11 years after the most serious disaster of the Mediterranean, the sinking of the motor ship Haven with 144000 tons of petrol, whose wreck is in the golf of Arenzano 70 meters deep and one mile from the museum. Today, the wreck presents an extraordinary “living” laboratory underwater and a resource of knowledge and awa- reness. The Muvita is entirely dedicated to climate changes sti- mulated by men and offers a fascinating route to discover our planet, its threats and the ways in which each of us can help. Arriving. By car: motorway A10 exit Arenzano. 30m to reserved parking. To cross the street, you need to overcome a step in the pavement of about 18cm. Accessibility. The structure is fully accessible to visitors who use a wheelchair and whish to move independently. The museum consists of two ﬂoors, which are connected with an accessible elevator at the entrance. The toilets are equipped and accessible and situated on the ground ﬂoor. The museum’s interactive panels can also be reached by people in wheelchairs.

83 museums and exhibitions MUSEO NAVALE

Villa Doria, Piazza Bonavino, 7 Area: Pegli (15km from Genoa) Phone: +39.010.6969885 Web: www.museonavale.it Entrance: closed on Mondays. Reduced admission fee for disabled visitors, free entry for an accompanying person, as well as for visitors under 18 and over 65, on Sundays and for residents of the city of Genoa. In the Renaissance villa of Giovanni Andrea Doria, maritime Genoese collections from the 11th until the 16th centuries are on display. The museum also hosts archaeological findings from the ocean (bombs and culverins, pieces of artillery), as well as documents, arms, paintings, models of ancient ships, different types of boats and instruments of navigation. Arriving. motorway A10, exit Genova Pegli. By informing the museum’s personnel of your arrival in advance, you will be able to drive to the museum’s entrance. The car can then be parked in the spaces along the street or in the museum’s car park.. Accessibility. The staff will accompany visitors who use a wheelchair to the second entrance at the back of the museum which has a ramp fitted over the stairs. The museum consists of two floors; the toilets on the ground floor are equipped and accessible.

84 museums and exhibitions PALAZZO BIANCO - PALAZZO TURSI

Palazzo Bianco Via Garibaldi, 11 Area: Old Town (F-5) Phone: +39.010.5572193 Web: www.museopalazzobianco.it Entrance: closed on Mondays. Redu- ced entrance fee for visitors over 65 years and disabled visitors; accompanying person free. The Gallery of Palazzo Bianco displays an important collection of European, Italian and Genoese art from the 16th and 17th centuries. The museum in the Palazzo Bianco is internally connected with Palazzo Tursi, the most magnificent building of 16th century Genoa, and also the former seat of the City Coun- cil. There, you can visit the monumental rooms and the historical gardens in the back. Arriving. By car: 600m to the car park on Piazza Piccapietra with 500 spaces. Public transport: 300m to the bus stop of lines 39 and 40 (equipped vehicles); 500 m to the Metro station “De Ferrari” (112). Accessibility. The staff of Palazzo Bianco will provide a mobile ramp at the entrance. The bell to call the staff is on the right side of the entrance. The museum consists of three floors, which are connected with an accessible elevator. The route continues to Palazzo Tursi via a provisional foot-bridge, on which the staff position a ramp to overcome the 5cm step. The toilets are in the entrance hall and in Palazzo Bianco on the second floor; both are equipped and accessible. Mobility Service. People with mobility difficulties can reach the museum and move independently inside, using one of the 4-wheel electric scooters from Terre di Mare (+39.010.542098 – www.terredimare.it)

85 museums and exhibitions MUSEO DI PALAZZO DEL PRINCIPE

Piazza del Principe,4 Area: Centre (A-2) Phone: +39.010.255509 Web: www.palazzodelprincipe.it Entrance: closed on Mondays. Reduced admission fee for visitors over 60 years and disabled visitors, free entry for an accompanying person. It is advised to book in advance. In the halls of this prestigious palace, commissioned by Andrea Doria in the 16th century, frescos, paintings and sculptures of some of the most important artists such as Perin del Vaga, Pio- la, Tavarone, Cambiaso, Tiziano and Castello have been preserved. The valuable collection of tapestries from 1460 on the life of Alessandro Magno has recently been restored. Arriving. By car: Informing the museum in advance of your arrival, you can use its private car park. Public transport: 100m to the bus stop of bus lines 18, 19, and 20 (vehicles not equipped); 150m to the Metro station “Principe” (112). The path leading to the museum includes a pedestrian crossing with a step. Accessibility. To enter the museum, the staff will assist you by mounting the wheelchair on a stair-lift. The museum consists of one level and does not present any other obstacles. The toilets are equipped but not accessible, since there are 4 steps that need to be overcome. To access the garden with the fountains of Neptune you might need assistance, since the two ﬁt- ted ramps are fairly steep and the paths are not easily.

86 museums and exhibitions PALAZZO DUCALE

Piazza Matteotti, 9 Old Town (G-7) Phone: +39.010.5574000 Web: www.palazzoducale.genova.it Entrance: open every day. Opening times of the exhibitions: 9.00 – 19.00 Tuesday – Sunday, closed on Mondays. Reduced admission fee for disabled visitors and free entry for an accompanying person. . Throughout hundreds of years of history, the Palazzo Ducale has been a place of power for the Republic and also the residence of the Doges. After ten years of restoration works the palazzo today is not only a historical building but also an acti- ve centre for cultural and social initiatives of the city. Since 2001, the Palazzo is, thanks to the concession of the City of Genoa, at nr.72 in piazza Matteotti, also home the ofﬁce of “Terre di Mare”, an information-point for accessibility and tourism without barriers of the Province of Genoa (115). Arriving. By car: 200m to the car park of Piazza Piccapietra with 100 spaces. public transport: 30m to the Metro station “De Fer- rari” (112). Accessibility. The accessible entrance is in Piazza De Ferrari. All levels of the Palazzo are connected with an accessible elevator (but watch out for the quickly closing doors). The Tower has been found inaccessible to visitors in a wheelchair. The toilets on each level are equipped and accessible. You can also use the equipped and accessible toilets of Terre di Mare in piazza Mat- teotti 72 red. Mobility Service. People with mobility difﬁculties can reach the museum and move independently inside, using one of the 4-wheel electric scooters from Terre di Mare (+39.010.542098 – www.terredimare.it))

87 museums and exhibitions MUSEO DI PALAZZO REALE

Via Balbi, 10 Area: Old Town (D-3) Phone: +39.010.2710236 Web: www.palazzorealegenova.it Entrance: closed on Mondays. Free admission for disabled visitors and an accompanying person, visitors under 18 and over 65 years. The gallery of the Palazzo Reale (88) is both a museum and a historical residence. The luxurious 17th century villa, former patrician home of noble families (Balbi, Durazzo, Savoia) preserves antique furniture, works of art and precious household objects that date from the 17th to the 19th century that are still in perfect condition. Its grand halls host a rich collection of paintings that include works of many famous Italian and foreign artists (Van Dyck, Tintoretto, Strozzi) and of the Genoese school (Piola, Grechetto, Schiaffino), as well as sculptures by Filippo Parodi. Not to be missed is the collection of Genoese furniture from the 17th and 18th century. Arriving. By car: 500 m to the car park of the Aquarium with 780 spaces; public transport: 34, 35 and 37 (not equipped with a mobile ramp); 150m to the Metro station “Darsena” (112) and to the Piazza Principe train station (105). Accessibility. The museum’s staff will provide a ramp to assist you overcome the three steps at the entrance. The museum consists of one level, which is located on the third floor and can be reached by an accessible elevator. Accessible toilets are located on the museum floor.

88 museums and exhibitions PALAZZO ROSSO

Via Garibaldi, 18 Area: Old Town (FG-5) Phone: +39.010.5574972 Web: www.museopalazzorosso.it Entrance: closed on Mondays. Redu- ced admission fee for visitors over 65 years and disabled visitors, free entry for an accompanying person. The National Museum is part of the ‘museums-street - Strada Nuova’, together with the Palazzo Bianco and the Palazzo Tursi. In the luxurious corner of the 17th century villas, the rich collection of paintings of the Brignole-Sale Family is on display from the span of more than two centuries. Arriving. By car: 600m to the car park of Piazza Piccapietra with 500 spaces. Public transport: 100m to the bus stop of lines 19 and 20 (vehicles not equipped) and the bus stop of lines 39 and 40, which run equipped vehicles; 500m to the Metro station “De Fer- rari” (112). Accessibility. The museum is accessible to wheelchair users. There are two elevators connecting the four ﬂoors of the museum and the renovated Auditorium of the Palazzo Rosso. The toilets in the basement can be reached with an elevator and are equipped and accessible. Mobility Service. People with mobility difﬁculties can reach the museum and move independently inside, using one of the 4-wheel electric scooters from Terre di Mare (+39.010.542098 – www.terredimare.it)

89 museums and exhibitions GALLERIA NAZIONALE DI PALAZZO SPINOLA

Piazza Pellicceria, 1 Area: Old Town (F-5) Phone: +39.010.2705300 Web: www.palazzospinola.it Entrance: closed on Mondays. Free entry for disabled visitors and an accompanying person. The evocative area of the 16th century Palazzo Spinola still bears an intact atmosphere of a 17th and 18th century residence, which today hosts a National Gallery with works by some of the greatest Genoese, Flemish and European artists, such as Rubens, Van Dyck, Grechetto and Valerio Castello, as well as an important collection of ceramics. Arriving. By car: 400m to the car park of the Aquarium with 780 spaces. Public transport: 300m to the Metro station “San Giorgio” (112). Accessibility. The entrance of the Palazzo has a 5cm step. The National Gallery is partially accessible: the museum consists of four floors, some of which are connected with an accessible elevator. Inaccessible are the mezzanine floor and the fourth floor. The accessible toilets are on the first floor at the end of a flight of stairs with a stair lift, which will be operated by the staff.

90 museums and exhibitions MUSEO RACCOLTE FRUGONE

Villa Grimaldi Fassio, via Capolungo 9 Area: Nervi Phone: +39.010.322396 Web: www.raccoltefrugone.it Entrance: closed on Mondays. Reduced admission fee for disabled visitors, free entry for an accompanying person and visitors over 65 years and visitors less than 18 years. The national museum has its seat in the 17th century villa Gria- maldi Fassio, where important 19th and 20th century art collections are on display. The paintings, sculptures and drawings of Italian and foreign artists include Bistolfi, Fontanesi, Mancini, Messina, Segantini, Signorini, Boldini, Milesi, Tito, Michetti and Sorolla y Bastida and have been collected by the Frugone brothers. Arriving. By car: There is a reserved parking area next to the entrance of the Gallery of Modern Art in Via Capolungo; 130 spaces in the car park of the Genova Nervi train station with a path (ca. 450 meters) through the public park leading to the museum (52). Accessibility. Access to the museum is possible thanks to the staff, who will assist you to overcome a step outside the second entrance. There is no bell outside and we therefore advise you to call the museum before you arrive. The museum consists of three levels, which are connected with a small elevator (65cm wide doors and 123x96cm inside the cabin). The museum can provide a wheelchair that fits these dimensions. The toilets are situated on the ground floor. Although they have no washba- sin and are not specially equipped, it is still possible for visitors in a wheelchair to use them.

91 museums and exhibitions MUSEO DI SANT’AGOSTINO

Piazza di Sarzano, 35 r Area: Old Town (FG-9) Phone: +39.010.2511263 Web: www.museosantagostino.it Entrance: closed on Mondays. Reduced admission fee for disabled visitors; free entry for an accompanying person, visitors under 18 and above 65 and residents of the city of Genoa. The complex of the Agostinian Covent with medieval origins (39) is today a museum hosting frescos, sculptures, and archaeological findings from the 10th to the 18th century. Next to works of Schiaffino, Castello, Domenico Piola, Luca Cambia- so, Parodi, you will also find masterpieces by Giovanni Pisano, Pierre Puget and Antonio Canova. Not to miss is the topo- graphic collection, which displays maps from various eras and important historical documentations. Arriving. by car: there are two reserved parking spaces in piazza Sarzano; 500m to the car park of Carignano (109) with 100 spaces. Public transport: opposite the museum is the Metro station “Sarzano” (112). Accessibility. The staff of the museum will provide a mobile ramp for the steps outside the entrance. There is no bell outside and we therefore advise to call the museum before you arrive. The museum has three levels, which are partially accessible: some of the halls are inaccessible due to steps; the second floor is fully accessible. The accessible toilets are on the ground floor. You can reach the triangular cloister of Sant’Agostino via an external ramp.

92 museums and exhibitions MUSEO DI STORIA NATURALE

Via Brigata Liguria, 9 Area: Centre (M-9) Phone: +39.010.564567 Web: www.museodoria.it Entrance: closed on Mondays. Reduced entrance fee for visitors over 65 years, free entry for disabled visitors and an accompanying person, visitors under 18 years and on Sundays also for residents. The National Museum Giacomo Doria, born in 1867, is interna- tionally renowned in scientific circles for its three and a half million pieces from all over the world. Its collection of high scientific value is mostly zoological, but also botanic, mineral, stone and fossils can be studied here. Particularly worth mentioning are the ornithological collections, those of mammals, the rich collection of insects and the hall dedicated to palaeon- tology. Arriving. By car: having arrived at the museum, it is possible to leave the car in the staff car park in via Maccaggi 92 red; 200m to the car park of Park Vittoria with 1100 spaces (109). Public transport: from Piazza De Ferrari by bus line 17/ (equipped vehicles), which stops 50m from the museum. Accessibility. Informing the museum in advance of your arrival, you can use its private car park. The entrance for disabled visitors is in via Macaggi 92 and is fitted with a stair lift, which will be operated by the museum’s staff. There is a video-intercom and the entrance is signed out. The museum consists of two floors, which are connected with an accessible elevator. The halls of the museum are barrier-free. The toilets on each floor are equipped and accessible..

93 museums and exhibitions MUSEO DEL TESORO DI SAN LORENZO

Cattedrale di San Lorenzo Area: Old Town (F-7) Phone: +39.010.2471831 Web: www.museosanlorenzo.it Entrance: closed on Mondays. Reduced admission fee for visitors over 60 years and disabled visitors; accompanying person free. The National Museum is situated in the basement of the San Lorenzo Cathedral, displaying masterworks of goldsmiths and sacred art from the 11th to the 19th century, antique silverware of exceptional artistic importance and art linked to the cult of the cathedral and the history of Genoa. Arriving. by car: 500m to the car park of the Aquarium with 780 spaces; 250m to the car park Piccapietra (109) with 500 spaces. Public transport: 200m to the Metro station “De Ferrari” (112). Accessibility. The entrance to the museum is inside the Cathe- dral, which you can enter from the side of via San Lorenzo over a steep ramp, which might require the assistance of another person. You might also need assistance to open the heavy, antique doors of the Cathedral. The staff of the museum will show you to an alternative, accessible entrance. The museum is partially accessible as some small steps are present. There are no accessible toilets in the museum.

94 museums and exhibitions MUSEO DEL RISORGIMENTO

Via Lomellini, 4 Area: Old Town (EF-4) Phone: +39.010.2465843 Web: www.istitutomazziniano.it Entrance: closed on Mondays. Reduced admission fee for visitors over 60 years and disabled visitors; accompanying person free. The museum is situated in the house where Giuseppe Mazzini was born. Its collection of documents, uniforms, flags, significant objects and paintings illustrate a historic journey through time: from Balilla to Rome, the capital of a united Italy, and a weapons room. Two new sections have recently been opened to illustrate the rich background of the Risorgimento: one is dedicated to Goffredo Mameli and the Italian National Anthem, the other to Garibaldi and his heroic deeds. The museum was transferred into via Lomellini in 1934 and became, together with the archive and the library, one of the components that form the Mazziniano Institute. Arriving. 400 m to the car park of the Aquarium with 780 spaces; public transport: 250 m to the Metro station “Darsena” (112). Accessibility. The main entrance has a step of 10 cm height and there is no intercom outside to call museum’s staff. We therefore advise visitors to call in advance for assistance. An accessible elevator connects the three floors of the museum and will be operated by the staff. The signs for the visitors’ route in the museum are clearly visible and there are equipped and accessible toilets on the ground floor.

95 museums and exhibitions WOLFSONIANA

Via Serra Gropallo, 4 Area: Nervi Phone: +39.010.3231329 Web: www.wolfsoniana.it Entrance: closed on Mondays. Reduced entry fee for disabled visitors and free entry for an accompanying person. In Wolfsoniana, selected objects of the Wolfson collection, including furniture, paintings and precious household objects from 1880 to 1945 are displayed in surroundings that still hold the feel and taste of their time. Micky Wolfson emphasised the importance of an authentic ambience by arranging his collection chronologically and thematically, taking into account cultural changes and artistic movements. The museum allows a profound in-sight into subjects such as the evolution in taste and style of decorative arts, architectural development and the relationship between art and political propaganda, to name but a few. Arriving. By car: 2 parking spaces reserved for disabled visitors in via Capolungo next to the entrance of the Museum of Modern Art; 130 parking spaces outside the Nervi Genova train station. Accessibility. The street leading to the entrance is quite steep . The Museum is fully accessible for visitors in a wheelchair. The museum consists of two floors, which are connected with an accessible elevator. The show rooms are fully accessible and free of any architectural barriers. On the first floor are equipped and accessible toilets.

96 Theatres

THEATRES AUDITORIUM MONTALE Galleria Cardinal Siri – Area: Old Town [GH-7] phone: +39.010.53811 - www.carlofelice.it entrance: the accessible elevator can only be operated by the staff. seats: reserved seats in the upper rows of the seats toilets: accessible and equipped inside the theatre NUOVO INSTABILE Via Cecchi 19r – Area: Genoa City phone: +39.010.592625 - www.cinemagenovacentro.it entrance: a stair lift for wheelchair users has recently been installed. Please call for assistance seats: reserved seats at the side of the third row toilets: accessible and equipped POLITEAMA GENOVESE Via Bacigalupo 2 – Area: Centro [I-5] phone: +39.010.8393589 - www.politeamagenovese.it entrance: To arrive in the gallery use the entrance on street level, which is accessible; to enter the stalls, which are below ground level, you need to overcome a 3cm high step; we advise to contact the theatre before your arrival as a bell outside the entrance is absent. Reserved seats in the gallery and the stalls toilets: accessible and equipped in the gallery

TEATRO CARGO Piazza Odicini 9 - Area: Voltri phone: +39.010.694240 - www.teatrocargo.it entrance: accessible seats: 2 reserved seats in the ﬁrst row toilets: accessible and equipped, but there is little space to manoeuvre 97 Theatres

TEATRO CARLO FELICE Passo Eugenio Montale 4 – Area: Old town [GH-7] phone: +39.010.53811 - www.carlofelice.it entrance: accessible seats: 4 reserved seats at the top of the stalls. The auditorium has a device installed for people who use hearing aids. The elevator can only be operated by the staff. toilets: accessible and equipped

TEATRO DELLA CORTE Via E. F. Duca d’Aosta – Area: Center [N-9] phone: +39.010.5342200 - www.teatro-di-genova.it entrance: double-heavy doors at the entrance; an intercom can be found outside the entrance, however we do advise to call by phone before you arrive. seats: 2 reserved seats in the back of the seats toilets: accessible with assistance, the door width is 110 cm

TEATRO DELLA GIOVENTÙ Via Cesarea 14 – Area: Center [L-9] phone: +39.010.5451393 - www.teatrodellagioventu.com entrance: accessible side entrance in via Macaggi 92 (red) without signs; phone call required to have the staff operate the handicap lift. seats: 3 reserved seats in the ﬁrst row toilets: accessible and equipped TEATRO DELLA TOSSE Piazza Renato Negri 4 – Area: Old town [F-9] phone: +39.010.2470793 - www.teatrodellatosse.it entrance: the Trionfo hall can be reached without assistance. To enter the Sala Dino Campagna and Agorà you need to call assistance. seats: reserved seats at the end of the row near the security exits toilets: accessible and equipped 98 Theatres

TEATRO DELL’ARCHIVOLTO TEATRO GUSTAVO MODENA E SALA MERCATO Piazza Modena 3 – Area: Sampierdarena phone: +39.010.6592220 - www.archivolto.it entrance: the ticket ofﬁce for both halls and the Sala Modena are accessible and no assistance is required. The entrance to Sala Mercato has a ramp. seats: reserved seats in the lateral aisle near the security exits. The Modena has an induction system installed for people with hearing aids (subject to letting the staff know before the show) toilets: accessible and equipped

TEATRO DUSE Via Bacigalupo 6 – Area: Centre [I-5] phone: +39.010.5342200 - www.teatro-di-genova.it entrance: main entrance is not accessible; a steep path leads to the second entrance. We advise to call in advance for assistance. seats: 2 reserved seats in the back rows toilets: accessible with assistance of the staff TEATRO HOP ALTROVE Piazzetta Cambiaso 1 – Area: Old town [F-5] phone: +39.010.2511934 - www.hopaltrove.it entrance: no intercom outside, therefore you need to call by phone before you arrive to ask for a ramp to be positioned over the two steps at the entrance seats: reserved seats in the ﬁrst and last rows of the seats, or anywhere else on request toilets: accessible and equipped; access from the café on the ﬁrst level via a stair lift. 99 shops and eating place INFORMATION ON THE ACCESSIBILITY OF THE SHOPS AND EATING PLACE MENTIONED IN THIS GUIDE (IN ORDER OF REFERENCE)

Steps Door Shops and Eating Places num h. cm w. cm ITINERARY A Libreria Bozzi 3 16 115 Pasticceria Villa 1 10 77 Gelateria don Paolo 3 14,5-16 70x2 Gelateria Guarino 1 3 100 Le cravatte di Finollo 1 7 60x2 ITINERARY B Libreria Porto Antico 0 - 110 ITINERARY C La Tavola del Doge 1 5-15 123 Prodotti Liguri Rivara Tessuti 1 17 92 (entrance in piazza San Lorenzo) Latteria Buona Fede 1 14 72 Caffè Laiolo 1 3 63 note: outside seating accessible Focacceria di via Lomellini 1 15 90 Pietro Romanengo Confetteria 1 18 70x2 Klainguti Confetteria 1 7 82x2 Viganotti Cioccolato 2 10-17 65(+65) Musica Gianni Tassio 1 23 100 Farmacia Montini 1 5 85 (entrance in via Gramsci)

100 shops and eating place

Steps Door Shops and Eating Places num h. cm w. cm VITA DEI GENOVESI Armanino Frutta Secca 0 - 89 Carega Antica Friggitoria 1 8 90 Gran Ristoro Panini 1 10 80 Antica Sciamadda 2 9-11 75 Farinata e Torte Sâ-a-Pesta Farinata e Torte 1 12 73 Baretto Gallese 2 8 75 Focacceria da Mario 1 6 105 Osteria Guglie 2 3-13 70 Mannori Ristorante 1 10 65 Panarello Pasticceria 2 2.5-15 80 Pollini Abbigliamento 1 0-12 100 Marina Rinaldi Abbigliamento 1 14 78x2 Geox Scarpe 1 13 85 (via XX Settembre 110r) Geox Scarpe 1 14 80 (via XX Settembre 120) Max Mara Abbigliamento 80 Cabib Tappeti 1 2-12 90 Feltrinelli Libreria 1 (ingr) 6 85x2 1 (usc) 12 note: an accessible elevator leads to the lower level; intermediate floor inaccessible. A bell is present at the entrance to call assistance. Mondadori Libreria 1 0-3.5 115 note: ascensore accessibile, al piano inferiore passaggi stretti. Fnac Libreria 1 15 83x2 note: accessible elevator, stair lift for the ground- and basement floor, equipped toilets on the basement floor. Bell outside to call the staff t o position a ramp.

101 shops and eating place

Steps Door Shops and Eating Places num h. cm w. cm Crovetto Tessuti 1 5 80 Pietro Romanengo Confetteria 1 18 70x2 Upim 1 12 80x2 Camisasca gomme 1 11 80 Camisasca sport 1 6 90 Pescetto Abbigliamento 1 11 85 Galleria Imperiale Antichità 1 14 160 Klainguti Confetteria 1 7 82x2 Sorelle Ascoli Abbigliamento 1 5 90 (Piazza Soziglia 94r) Sorelle Ascoli Abbigliamento 1 7 78 La Bottega dello Stoccaﬁsso 1 8 85/90 Mentelocale Wine bar - - 77+77 Birreria Moretti 1 12 80 Triskell 1 10 80 Pizzeria di vico dei Biscotti 1 8 90 Fulvio Ristorante 1 11 74+82 Bar Berto Wine Bar 1 7 75 note: outside seating accessible Café Latino Wine Bar 1 14 140 note: outside seating accessible Cremeria delle Erbe 1 15 140 note: bell at the entrance and an external ramp available Bar Ristorante Marinella 1 8 98 The premises “Sul fronte del porto” are situated on the top ﬂoor of the Palazzina Millo, which can be reached with an accessible elevator. Brasserie Porto Carlo - - 90 Sushi Bar & Restaurant - - 90 Mezzanotte Cocktail Bar - - 90

102 PUBLIC TRANSPORT AND SERVICES

E via per scogli freschissimi ed aria, nella tremula Genova, l’antico legname della barca a fune in aria nero travalica i ponti – l’intrico scande d’obliqui deviamenti, e giunge per terrazze a conoscere l’aperta trasparenza del giorno.

Giorgio Caproni Public transport and services

ARRIVING IN GENOA

By Plane Arriving in Genoa by plane, you will land at the Cri- stoforo Colombo Airport, which is situated in the west end of the city, ca. 6km from the centre. The airport has accessible toilets, elevators and all pedestrian areas are barrier-free. For travellers in wheelchairs, the airport has mobile stair lifts, with which you can board the plane easily. Airlines that operate in the airport of Genoa are: Air Alps, Air Dolomiti, AirFrance, AirOne, AirVallee, Alitalia, Belle Air, British Airways, Condor, Iberia, Lufthansa, Myair and Ryanair. Most companies offer special services for disabled travellers, such as an accompanying person inside the airport or special fares for the transportation of wheelchairs. To take advantage of these, we advise you to state your disability and/or special needs when you book. Inside the airport is an accessible tourist information. Parking: there are several reserved parking spaces in the central car park of the airport Links to public transport: The no.100 bus “Volabus” connects the airport with the city centre. It is not equipped with mobile ramps. Contact the Radio Taxi and request an equipped vehicle on +39.010.5966 – www.solotaxi.it. For further information: Airport Cristoforo Colombo - +39.010.60151 – www.airport.genova.it

104 Public transport and services

By train The two principal stations of the city are ‘Genova Piazza Principe’ and ‘Genova Brignole’. Principe station is convenient for those who want to visit the old town, the area of the Porto Antico and the Aqua- rium of Genoa, the Galata Museum of the Sea, the Castello d’Al- bertis, the Cathedral and the Museums in via Garibaldi. Principe, which is waiting for re-qualification works, has been found inaccessible for travellers in wheelchairs who want to move independently. Therefore, you should call the Assistance Centre for Disabled Travellers (tel. +39.010.2743775) at least 2 hrs before you arrive/depart. The train station consists of several levels that are connected with stair-lifts, which will be operated by the staff on request. The stair-lift links for example to platform 11, where you can find accessible toilets, a café and a baggage deposit. The ticket office is on the left as you enter the station and it is close to the Assistance Centre for Disabled Travellers, where you can also receive information. Both offices are accessible and on street level. The tourist information is situated in the upper entrance hall and has a step at the entrance. There are two ‘underground’ platforms– usually for the regional trains running along the Riviera - which are not accessible, not even with the assistance of the operators. Parking: there are reserved parking spaces for people with a valid invalidity card in the car park outside the station, in front of the taxi rank. Pedestrian routes: to reach the old town or the Aquarium, we advise to go straight into via Balbi towards the Porta dei Vacca. Links to public transport: the Metro station “Principe” can be reached by taking the street on the right when leaving the station and then crossing the street after ca. 150 meters at the first traffic light in via Doria.

105 Public transport and services

Brignole train station is probably the best point for departure and arrivals for travellers in a wheelchair and is also convenient for those who want to arrive at the Fiera del Mare, the promenade of Corso Italia, via San Lorenzo and via XX Settembre. The station has been found accessible for wheelchair users. Thanks to the recent construction of the corridor in the west-wing of the station, which has accessible elevators, it is now possible to reach all platforms. Disabled travellers who are planning a journey are nonetheless advised to contact the Centro Assi- stenza Disabili (tel. +39.010.2743775) 12 hrs before departure/ arrival to receive assistance when getting on or off the train. To leave Brignole station, keep the right, where a ramp is positioned over the stairs outside the taxi rank. Next to the entrance of the Ofﬁce for Travel Assistance (Ufﬁcio Assistenza Pas- seggeri) is an indicated bell, which will call the staff who can give you the key to the accessible toilets. Parking. There are two parking spaces reserved for disabled travellers outside the station. Connecting public transport. Connecting public transport: The bus line 19 runs directly to the Fiera del Mare but it is not equipped. Lines 17/, 39, 40, are equipped with mobile ramps and connect Brignole with De Ferrari square. (for information on buses: +39.800085311 www.amt.genova.it). For further information: Trenitalia – Assistance Centre for Disabled Travellers: +39.010.2743775 or +39 199 303060. www. trenitalia.com/disabili/hodi.html

106 Public transport and services

By Car The motorways that connect Genoa with the national network are the A12 Genova – Rosignano, A26 Voltri – Gravello- na Toce, A10 Genova – Ventimiglia and the A7 Genova – Milano. The exit Genova Ovest (Genoa East) leads into the city centre. Once you leave the motorway, the road continues onto an elevated lane, from which you can take the exits to the Aquarium, Via XX Settem- bre and the Fiera del Mare. The motorway exit Genova Nervi leads to the Parks of Nervi and the east end of the city of Genoa. The closest service stations, which have been declared accessible for disabled people by the Società Autostrade S.p.A. are: • in direction Genoa: Sant’Ilario Nord on the A12 between Recco and Genova Nervi Piani D’Invrea Sud on the A10 between Varazze and Arenzano Turchino Ovest on the A26 between Masone and the link to the A10 Giovi Ovest on the A7 between Isola del Cantone and Ronco Scrivia • leaving Genova: Sant’Ilario Sud the A12 between Genova Nervi and Recco Piani D’Invrea Nord on the A10 between Arenzano and Varazze Turchino Est on the A26 between the link to the A10 and Masone Giovi Ovest on the A7 between Ronco Scrivia and Isola del Cantone For further information: Infoviaggio: tel +39.892525; motorway information in English: +39.06.43632121 – www.autostrade.it

107 Public transport and services

Ships and Ferries Ferries arrive at and depart from Genoa to the following desti- nations: Sardinia, Sicily, Tunisia, Morocco, Spain and Corsica. The new Terminal Traghetti (Ferry Terminal) is ca. 1km west of the city centre. It can be reached by bus (line 19 and 30 not equipped) or by Metro (station ‘Di Negro’), by car and by taxi. Inside the terminal, which was opened in 1999, there are shops, supermarkets, accessible toilets and elevators that connect the three ﬂoors. The entire structure is accessible for wheelchair users. The ferries of the different companies generally have specially equipped and accessible cabins, which can be requested when booking. The cruise ships depart from the Stazione Marittima of Pon- te dei Mille and Ponte Andrea Doria quays. Within the next years, the Terminal Crociere di Ponte Parodi will be built as part of the city’s upgrading projects. Further information and assistance: +39.010.2412534 – www.smge.it

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MOVING IN GENOA

Car parks The owners of a valid Invalidity Pass (art. 12 DPR 503/96) can park for free in the city car parks, even if they do not use a space that is reserved for people with disabilities. However, you need to ensure that the car park does not function exclusively with an automatic payment till or that you leave your car at times when the car park personnel are not present. The following list comprises open and covered car parks in the city centre: • Park Acquario: : 780 open spaces, open 24hrs – Info: +39.010.2345231; • Magazzini del Cotone: Area of the Aquarium – 676 covered spaces – open from 8.00 to 2.00 – Info: +39.010.2485728; • Autopark Piccapietra: Area De Ferrari – 500 covered spaces – open 24 hrs – Info: +39.010.564244; • City Park: Area De Ferrari – 270 covered spaces – Sun- day to Wednesday: 7.00-0.30, Thursday: 7.30-1.30, Friday and Saturday: 7.30-3.30. Info: +39.010.561509; • Park Vittoria: Area Brignole – 1100 covered spaces – open from 7.00 – 23.00 – Info: +39.010.5954132; • Lambruschini: Area Brignole – 550 covered spaces – open from 7.30 – 23.00 – Info: +39.010.5531625; • Parcheggio Carignano: 100 covered spaces – open 24 hrs – with payment – Infp: +39.010.5704375; • Parking of the Train station Genova-Nervi: Area Ner- vi – 130 covered spaces – open from 7.00 to 21.00 – Info: Bar/Buffet of the station Nervi. For further information: The surface car parks are administra- ted by Genova Parcheggi – tel. +39.010.5707186 – www.gepark. com

109 Public transport and services

Bus The AMT (Agency for Public Transport of Genoa) currently has 937 busses, of which 438 vehicles are equipped with lowered ﬂoors and 83 with a mobile ramp. The city bus lines with a mobile footboard for wheelchairs are: - Bus line 17, which links via Brigata Liguria (near the big car park of Piazza della Vittoria) with the east end of the city until Nervi. - Bus line 19, which links the Fiera del Mare with Brignole train station, Via Gramsci, and the Galata Museum of the Sea. Lines 17/, 39, 40, are equipped with mobile ramps and connect Brignole with De Ferrari square Currently there is no information on the exact times or the fre- quency of the equipped vehicles in the urban bus net. For further information: tel. +39.800085311 – www.amt. genova.it Public elevators and cable railways Genoa, being one of the steepest cities in the world, has a network of elevators and cable railways run by the AMT. The following have been found accessible for people in wheelchairs who want to move independently: • The cable railway of S. Anna, connects the central Piazza Portello with via Bertani and thereby with the ring-road on the hill. It has two carriages, each with a capacity to ﬁt 30 people. Open every day from 7.00 until 00.30. Funicolare di Sant’Anna

110 Public transport and services

• the public elevator of Castelletto connects Piazza Por- tello to Spianata Castelletto, from where one can admire one of the most beautiful panoramas of Genoa. It has two cabins, each with a capacity to fit 25 people. Open every day from 6.40 – 24.00; • the public elevator of Castelletto Ponente connects the Galleria Garibaldi with Via G. Colombo, an adjacent street to the Belvedere di Castelletto. It has two cabins, each with a capacity to fit 27 people; • the public elevator of Castello d’Albertis – Montegal- letto connects Via Balbi with Corso Dogali with a vertical and horizontal cable railway system. Open from Monday to Saturday from 6.45 to 21.00, Sundays and on bank holidays from 8.00 to 21.00. Thanks to the completion of a new, barrier-free pedestrian crossing in Corso Dogali, people in a wheelchair can now arrive at and reach the public elevator ‘Montegalletto’, which leads to the Museum Castello D’Albertis. This route is also accessible using an electric four-wheel scooter from Terre di Mare (tel. +39.010.542098 – www.terredimare.it). For further information: +39.010.800085311 – www.amt.genova.it Taxi You can call an equipped vehicle, which is fitted to transport passengers in a wheelchair. The vehicles are air-conditioned and can accommodate up to 5 passengers plus one passenger with a wheelchair. Available 24 hrs. For information: Radiotaxi Genova tel. +39.010.5966 www.solotaxi.it

111 Public transport and services

Metropolitana - Genoa’s underground

Currently the Metro has seven stops.

Brin >Di Negro >Principe >Darsena >San Giorgio >Sarzano >De Ferrari To use the Metro, the personnel of the Metro station need to be called by intercom to assist travellers in a wheelchair to get on and off the train by providing a mobile ramp to overcome the gap and difference in height between the train and the platform. In all station of the Metro tactile routes have been laid for blind passenger, which lead from the entrance to the elevator, the platforms and the trains. However, there are no indications in Braille on the button-panel in the elevators. For further information: tel. +39.800085311 www.amt.genova.it

112 Public transport and services

MOBILITY SERVICE This is a service managed by Terre di Mare, the information-point of the Provin- ce of Genoa for tourism without barriers, which rents out electric four-wheel scooters to people with mobility difﬁculties, with which they can visit the Old Town, the Porto Antico and all accessible points of interest in Genoa comfortably (such as the Aquarium, the Galata Museum, Palazzo Ducale, the Museums in via Garibal- di, the Castello d’Albertis or the Lighthouse Museum). The scooters can be hired out directly in the ofﬁce of Terre di Mare at the Palazzo Ducale (115). On request, the scooters can also be brought to the train stations Principe and Bri- gnole, the Aquarium of Genoa and the main car parks in the city centre (for this however, it is required that you are already familiar with the controls and procedures). The service ‘Terre di Mare’ of the Province of Genoa is admini- strated by the Cooperativa Sociale La Cruna (www.lacruna. com)

For further information: Terre di Mare Piazza Matteotti 72r (Palazzo Ducale) tel. +39.010.542098 - +39.339.1309249 www.terredimare.it

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INFORMATION AND USEFUL NUMBERS USEFUL NUMBERS Calling from abroad dial +39 before all the following phone numbers

Carabinieri 112 Police 113 Firebrigade 115 Ambulance 118 Medical Advice 010 354002 Local Police 010 5570 Car Breakdown Service 803116 Lost Property Ofﬁce 010 500519 Radio Taxi 010 5966 24-hour Pharmacies Ghersi, corso Buenos Aires 18 – 010 530821 Pescetto, via Balbi 185 – 010 261609 Europa, corso Europa 676 – 010 380239 Tourist Information Principe Train Station 010 2462633 Colombo Airport 010 6015247 Porto Antico 010 2485710 GenovaInforma 010 8687452 Terre di Mare 010 542098

ACCESSIBLE TOILETS Autopulente Via Fiume – area Brignole (M9) c/o Terre di Mare Ofﬁce – Palazzo Ducale (G7) c/o Centro Piazza Ragazzi - Old Town (F7) Shopping Mall of the Aquarium – Area Porto Antico (D6) Mandraccio – Area Porto Antico (E7)

114

CREDITS

we would like to thank the following people for their collaboration on this guide: the writer Maurizio Maggiani for his extraordinary style, which has cap- tured the charm of Genoa. the journalist Donata Bonometti for editing the texts of the itineraries and the passion, with which she has worked towards the completion of this guide. Anna Kaarow for the enthusiasm and commitment in translating and Joshua Robinson for his dedication in proofreading Amanzio Pezzolo, former Vice Consoler CULMV of the Port of Genoa, for his “Memories of the Port”. Marino Lagomarsino, violinist at the Carlo Felice Theatre, for his ﬁne sum- mary of “Niccolò Paganini” Genoa Airport, AMI, AMT, the Port Authority, the Direction of the Museu- ms of the City of Genoa, the Fiera di Genoa, the Palazzo del Principe, the Stazioni Marittime S.p.A, Trenitalia and Studio Stefano Fera for the information and images Ansaldo Trasporti Sistemi Ferroviari for the concession of the itineraries’ graphic map and the Metro map, produced on their account by Corigraf di Genova Apt Genova, M&R Comunications and the Assosciation of “Articolo 4” – Mac Art by Riccardo Navone for the concession to use the geographical map of the city Sonia Pelloni and Milena Bozzo of the G.I.L Asl 3 “Genovese” for sharing their experience acquired through Gira Genova Stefania Pasa and Andrea Stefan, for their suggestions and their willin- gness to help The owners of mentioned premises, who have helped this project by sta- ting the accessibility of their structures. Quotations: Page 9 and 67 Richard Wagner ‘Dalle Lettere’ (1853) and Paul Valéry ‘Au hasard et au rayon (1910), (translated by Giuseppe Mercenaro) in Giuseppe Mercenaro ‘Viaggiatori stranieri in Liguria’. De Ferrari, Genoa 1990. Page 39 from the passage “Creuza da mä” in Fabrizio Di André, ‘Creuza de mä’, Ricordi, 1984; Page 57 by Dino Campana, Canti orﬁci e altre poesie, Einaudi, Torino 2003 Page 121 by Giorgio Caproni, Genova di tutta la vita, San Marco dei Giustiniani, Genova 1997;

Photography credits: Coop. Sociale La Cruna: cover, p.16, 17, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 27, 31, 34, 36, 38, 41, 42, 43, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 51, 61, 64, 65, 66, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 82, 83, 85, 87, 88, 89, 91, 124, 126, 129, 130, 131, 137; Centrovideo del Comu- ne di Genova: p. 5, 7, 13,14, 15, 18, 26, 32, 33, 34, 37, 40, 50, 52, 53, 56, 59, 60, 62, 71, 72, 79, 81, 86, 90; Apt Genova: p. 28, 44, 58; Genova 2004: p. 54, 55, 63, 69, 80, 92; Museo Muvita: p. 51; Confetteria Romanengo: p. 37. Greatest care and attention have been paid in compiling this guide, in order to guarantee the reliability and accuracy of the information given. However, it can be assumed that in the course of time changes of addresses, phone numbers and conditions of accessibility of the itineraries and structures are possible. No warranty is therefore offered and we do not take responsibility for any damage or inconvenience caused as a consequence of the information contained in this guide. PONTE �� DECIM � � � � �� BOLZANET ��

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Proprietà esclusiva della cartograﬁa Apt Genova – M&R comunicazione

Three exciting itineraries, guiding tourists through the barrier-free routes of Genoa, whilst providing information on points of interest and walks that allow to discover this city through the eyes of those who live it every day. Detailed profiles on the accessibility of the city’s points of interest provide all the necessary information and measurements of museums, theatres, hotels, restaurants and commercial businesses, which have been verified on site. Other than promoting accessible tourist attractions of Genoa, La Cruna aims to promote good praxis in the field of accessibility, which has already been illustrated in the informative leaflet “Guide for accessible planning”.

Genova per tutti noi

in collaboration with: Consulta Handicap with the contribution of:

Provincia di Genova sale. for Not Edition. Free