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Birding in Burkina Faso, More Than Just Birdwatching

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Birding in Burkina Faso, More Than Just Birdwatching Birding in Burkina Faso, more than just birdwatching Bruno Portier, Clark Lungren & Georges H Ouéda aily flights from Paris, among the friendliest Burkina Faso is a land-locked country in the Dpeople you are ever likely to meet, a great West African Sahel region located north of tourism infrastructure and a very quiet political Ghana, sandwiched between the Sahara desert situation combine to make Burkina Faso (which and the Gulf of Guinea, and within the loop of means the ‘honest men’s land’) one of the easiest the Niger river. It covers 240 000 km2, making and safest countries to visit in western Africa. the country almost six times bigger than the Coupled with an impressive list of birds – thanks Netherlands. The neighbouring countries are to its location between the Sahel in the north and Mali, Ivory Coast, Ghana, Togo, Benin and Niger. tropical forest habitats in the south – and a fantas- It is located on a plateau that rises gently from an tic and well preserved variety of game and mam- elevation of 250 m in the south-west to 350 m in mals make Burkina Faso, formerly called Upper the north-east. The country is essentially a fairly Volta, a must-visit location for pioneer birders. flat plain dissected by three main branches of the And there is far more to Burkina Faso than just its Volta river that drain southwards to Ghana. The rich wildlife and eye-catching birdlife. For those drainage system of the largest branch, the who want to get acquainted with African cul- Mouhoun (formerly Black Volta), covers half of tures, history, traditional music or craft shopping, the country. The country has poor soil with many the country will offer plenty of satisfactions. areas being infertile semi-desert. The climate is FIGURE 1 Map of Burkina Faso [Dutch Birding 24: 127-141, 2002] 127 Birding in Burkina Faso, more than just birdwatching hot and dry, with average temperatures of in January-February when night temperatures may 18.1 °C in January and 38.4 °C in April. The dramatically crash down to 10 °C, chilling all average annual rainfall ranges from 650 to 1200 local people to the bone! It may even freeze on mm but is less than 250 mm in the north. rare occasions in the northern desert. Therefore, water is scarce in many parts of the Burkina Faso can be reached by daily flight country and where it is available, infestations of from Paris, France (Air France, NAS Air) to river blindness or sleeping sickness have prevent- Ouagadougou. Corsair and Le Point Afrique have ed its agricultural use for centuries. There are weekly flights in tourist periods. From The three distinct seasons: warm and dry from Netherlands, indirect flights via Accra, Ghana, November to March, very hot and dry from may be an interesting solution. The flight time is March to May and hot and wet from June to c six hours from Paris to Ouagadougou. October. An international certificate of vaccination Burkina Faso is home to 60 different ethnic against yellow fever is required and will be groups but is dominated by the Voltaic group checked upon entrance of the country. Further which include the Mossi, who make 52% of the vaccinations against typhoid fever, meningitis, population. Burkina Faso is also one of the more hepatitis (A & B) and polio are strongly recom- densely populated countries in the Sahel (over mended. A preventing malaria treatment (Sava- 36 inhabitants/km2) with an estimated population rine) is necessary, overall in the rainy season. of just over 10 million people, three quarters of whom live in rural areas. Small-scale agricultural Ornithological importance of Burkina Faso and animal husbandry employ 90% of the popu- While much information still needs to be collect- lation and provide 45% of the gross national pro- ed or verified, Burkina Faso, for a land-locked duct (GNP). Main export products are cotton country of its size, has a fairly rich avifauna with fibre, gold, cattle and small ruminants, and to a a total of over 500 species recorded, of which lesser degree yams, beans and mangos. There are more than one third are of significant conserva- two major urban areas: Ouagadougou, the capi- tion interest. Owing to its location on the south- tal (1 million inhabitants), and Bobo-Dioulasso ern edge of the Sahara desert, it receives many (400 000). French is the official language but seasonal Palearctic migrants, with a few sites cer- most of the many tribal languages belong to the tainly hosting annual congregations of at least Sudanic family. 20 000 waterbirds. Its land-locked situation pre- vents any true seabird records and even the Travelling information world-wide gulls are uncommon. Although As birding in Burkina Faso may be considered as Burkina Faso has no endemic species, many pioneering birding, you will have to travel with a birds of the West African Tropical Region are slight ‘off the beaten tracks’ mind. Tourism is likely to be seen. developed and game ranches, national parks and Furthermore, it is notable that a rational con- wildlife reserves are usual destinations for visi- servation system is in place. The legislative tors. You will not have trouble to find 4-WD ve- framework defines classified forests, total or par- hicles and guides but since birding is an unusual tial faunal reserves, national parks, game activity, you may need to explain your wishes. ranches, biosphere reserves and Ramsar sites. Although most parks are open throughout the And, although most conservation areas have year (except Arly NP), the rainy season frequently remained without any consequential manage- transforms paths and tracks into impracticable ment or investment until recently, progress into muddy swamps, while the green sea of high the right direction is now being made. Burkina tropical grasses can further complicate observing Faso has signed several international conventions wildlife. Therefore, the best period for visiting regarding nature conservation, the most impor- Burkina Faso is from mid-October or November tant being CITES, Bonn (migratory species), to June or mid-July. Do not forget to bring along UNESCO World Heritage, Bern, Ramsar Humid appropriate gear and clothing if you are planning Zones, Biodiversity Conservation, African a trekking safari. Clothing should either be neutral Convention on the Conservation of Nature and or jungle camouflaged to provide low-visibility to Natural Resources (Organization of African the shy animals. Long clothing protects against Unity), and Convention on Climatic Change. sunburn, mosquitos and other insects. Sturdy International cooperation programmes are car- boots, a hat and sunglasses are also essential. ried out on natural resource management and A warm pull-over can be useful in early morning biodiversity conservation. 128 Birding in Burkina Faso, more than just birdwatching 110 Hamerkop / Hamerkop Scopus umbretta, Nazinga Game Ranch, Burkina Faso, 20 November 1999 (Bruno Portier) 111 White-backed Night Heron / Witrugkwak Gorsachius leuconotus, juvenile, Nazinga Game Ranch, Burkina Faso, 27 May 2000 (Bruno Portier). One of the potential highlights. This very elusive and nocturnal species was recently discovered in Burkina Faso 129 Birding in Burkina Faso, more than just birdwatching 112 Grasshopper Buzzard / Sprinkhaanbuizerd Butastur rufipennis, Gonsé Classified Forest, Burkina Faso, 6 May 2000 (Bruno Portier) 113 African Hawk Eagle / Afrikaanse Havikarend Hieraaetus spilogaster, juvenile, Nazinga Game Ranch, Burkina Faso, 14 May 2000 (Bruno Portier) 130 Birding in Burkina Faso, more than just birdwatching Best birding spots aethiopicus, many shorebirds, along with three Burkina Faso lies within three bioclimatic zones species of harrier, ie, Western Marsh Circus aeru- (Sahelian, Sudanian and Sudano-Guinean) with ginosus, Montagu’s C pygargus and Pallid Harrier distinct ecological conditions. C macrourus will be easy to find. Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos, Spur-winged Goose Sahelian sector Plectropterus gambensis and African Swamp-hen This sector, lying in the north of the country, has Porphyrio madagascariensis will be seen in good less than 400 mm of uncertain rainfall per year, numbers. Other species to look for are Saddle- and the climate is characterized by a dry season billed Stork Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis, lasting 8-10 months. The vegetation is classified Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis, Tawny Eagle as shrub and wooded steppes dominated by Aquila rapax, Black Crowned Crane Balearica Acacia species, with patches of ‘tiger bush’ alter- pavonina, Northern Carmine Bee-eater Merops nating with dense thickets of Balanites. The grass nubicus and Black Scrub Robin Cercotrichas cover consists of short annuals that generally podobe. And with a bit of luck, White-backed provide good pasture. The majority of people are Duck Thalassornis leuconotus, Greater Painted transhumant and semi-sedentary Fulani, Touareg Snipe Rostratula benghalensis, the rare Kordofan and Bella herdsmen. This area has numerous Lark Mirafra cordofanica, Desert Lark Ammo- seasonal lakes and several tributaries of the Niger manes deserti and Sennar Penduline Tit Antho- that seasonally receive large numbers of migra- scopus punctifrons can be found. tory Palearctic birds. Large wild mammals are today reduced to sporadic populations of Red- 2 Béli river, Partial Wildlife Reserve The Béli fronted Gazelle Gazella rufifrons, Warthog river site lies in the extreme north of the country. Phacochoerus africanus, Patas Monkey Cerco- It is a flat scrub steppe at 250-300 m altitude, pithecus patas, Spotted Hyena Crocuta crocuta,
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