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The Best of Hong Kong

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The Best of Hong Kong 1 The Best of Hong Kong Hong Kong is such a feast for the senses, it reminds me of a movie set. Maybe I’m an incurable romantic, but when I stand at the railing of the famous Star Ferry as it glides across the harbor, ride a rickety old tram as it winds its way across Hong Kong Island, or marvel at the stunning views afforded from atop Victoria Peak, I can’t help but think I must have somehow landed in the middle of an epic drama where the past has melted into the present. So many images float by—wooden boats bobbing up and down in the harbor beside huge ocean liners; crumbling tenements next to ultra- modern high-rises; squalid alleys behind luxury hotels; elderly people pushing wheelbar- rows as Rolls-Royces glide by; market vendors selling chicken feet and dried squid while talking on cellphones. In fact, one of the most striking characteristics of Hong Kong is this interweaving of seeming contradictions and the interplay of the exotic and the technically advanced. There are as many skyscrapers here as you’re likely to see anywhere, but they’re built with bamboo scaffolding and in accordance with the principles of feng shui. Historic trams rumble through Central, while below ground is one of the most efficient subways in the world, complete with the world’s first “contactless” tickets, cards that can be waved over a scanner without even taking them out of your purse or wallet. The city has what are arguably some of the best and most sophisticated restaurants in the world, but it also has dai pai dong, street-side food stalls. Hong Kong is home to one of the world’s largest shopping malls, but lively makeshift street markets are virtually everywhere. The more you search for in Hong Kong, the more you’ll find. Before long, you, too, may find yourself swept up in the drama. 1 THE MOST UNFORGETTABLE TRAVEL EXPERIENCES • Observing a Chinese Festival: Hong world. The trip is a good reminder that Kong celebrates with several colorful Hong Kong, with its breathtaking sky- festivals throughout the year, featuring line, is dominated by water, with one of everything from dragon boat races to the world’s busiest harbors. See p. 43. celebrations honoring Tin Hau, goddess • Gazing upon Hong Kong from Victo- of the sea.COPYRIGHTED Cantonese opera, performed ria Peak:MATERIAL You don’t know Hong Kong on temporary stages, is also common at until you’ve seen it from here. Take the Chinese festivals. See “Hong Kong Cal- funicular to Victoria Peak, famous for endar of Events” in chapter 3. its views of Central, Victoria Harbour, • Riding the Star Ferry: The subway South China Sea, Kowloon, and undu- between Kowloon and Hong Kong lating hills beyond, followed by a Island may be quicker, but it doesn’t 1-hour circular hike and a meal with a hold a candle to the historic Star Ferry, view. Don’t miss the nighttime view, offering one of the most dramatic—and one of the most spectacular and roman- cheapest—5-minute boat rides in the tic in the world. See p. 172. 4 Hong Kong Region PPEOPLE'SEOPLE'S RREPUBLICEPUBLIC OOFF CCHINAHINA SSHENZHENHENZHEN Shataukok GGUANGDONGUANGDONG PPROVINCEROVINCE LLoo WWuu LLokok MMaa CChauhau . Rd ok SShenzhenhenzhen BBayay K 1 au a T SShekouhekou Sh MaiMai PoPo SheungSheung ShuiShui NatureNature ReserveReserve Fanling LLauau FFauau SShanhan 2 d. ok R K ng Ti LLongong PPinging YYuenuen LLongong Tai Po KKamam TTinin Tai Wo TTinin SShuihui . Deep Bay Rd WWaiai am Tai Po Lam K KKamam SShuenghueng Market Ma On Wu Kai Sha MiuMiu FatFat RRoadoad Shan MonasteryMonastery NNEWEW University S Heng On a SSiuiu HHongong TTERRITORIESERRITORIES i R o S a THE BEST OF HONG KONG HONG OF BEST THE 3 u Tai Shui h l t a s u e Fo Tan S a i n Hang R i n T d K u n g P e w . TTuenuen MMunun is Racecourse Shek Mun k 1 Sha Tin City One . Sai Kung Tai Wai Shai Tin Wai y w H 2 Che Kung s m TTsuensuen WWanan a Temple ir WWestest H Tsuen Wan KOWLOON a Bridge ng M West Mei Foo Tsi TTsingsing Kowloon 3 Tong YYii Nam Kowloon Peak Cheong Mong Kok . 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Port Shelter Rd Clear Water Bay YauYau MaMa TeiTei Hong Kong International EastEast TsimTsim HHungung HomHom ShaSha TsuiTsui Airport Peng Chau el or unn arb Island T H nel Victoria TTunnelun Tung Lantau Island Victoria CentralCentral CCausewayauseway Clear Water Bay Chung Peak BBayay CChaihai Po Lin Mui Wo Pokfulam WanWan 8 WWanan Monastery CChaihai Tai O AberdeenAberdeen HHongong KKongong Cheung Sha GGuangzhouuangzhou ((Canton)Canton) Yung IslandIsland Shue AApp LLeiei CChauhau PPEOPLE'SEOPLE'S RREPUBLICEPUBLIC Wan OFOF CHINACHINA IslandIsland S t GGUANGDONGUANGDONG a Repulse n PROVINCEPROVINCE l e StanleyStanley y P Bay e Sok Kwu Wan B a r a l SShenzhenhenzhen y R Lamma i v e r Island MMacauacau HHongong KKongong PPotoiotoi a IIslandsland Se area of detail ina Ch South China Sea South 6 • Listening to the World’s Largest Pro- (and enjoy great views of the harbor fessional Chinese Orchestra: Estab- and skyline along the way), followed by lished 30 years ago, the 80-member a hair-raising bus ride over lush hills to Hong Kong Chinese Orchestra is the see the world’s largest, seated, outdoor world’s largest, playing traditional and bronze Buddha, located at the Po Lin modern Chinese instruments in orches- Monastery. Complete your pilgrimage trations that combine Chinese and with a vegetarian meal at the monastery Western musical elements. See p. 240. and a visit to Ngong Ping Village with • Celebrating Sundown with a Cock- its shopping and Walking with Buddha tail: Many hotel lounges offer spectacu- museum, and then make your return lar views of the city as well as live music. trip via cable car offering more great As the sun disappears, watch the city views. See the “Lantau” section of chap- explode in neon. See “The Bar, Pub & ter 11, beginning on p. 264. Lounge Scene,” in chapter 10, begin- • Zipping over to Macau: Macau, for ning on p. 244, for venues with espe- centuries a Portuguese outpost until it cially good views. was handed back to the Chinese in • Partying until Dawn in Lan Kwai 1999, is just an hour away by jetfoil and Fong: It’s standing room only at bars offers a fascinating blend of Chinese and pubs in Central’s most famous and Mediterranean lifestyles, evident in THE BEST OF HONG KONG HONG OF BEST THE nightlife district, where the action spills its spicy Macanese cuisine, colorful 1 out onto the street and continues until architecture, temples, churches, and dawn. Other burgeoning nightlife dis- handful of special-interest museums. tricts include SoHo, Knutsford Terrace, It’s also famous for its Las Vegas– and Wan Chai. See chapter 10. style casinos. Although you can “do” • Paying Respects at the Big Buddha: Macau in a day, I strongly urge you to Laze on the open aft deck during the spend at least a couple days here. See 50-minute ferry ride to Lantau island chapter 12. 2 THE BEST SPLURGE HOTELS • Hotel InterContinental Hong Kong, old dame of Hong Kong, this historic THE BEST SPLURGE HOTELS SPLURGE BEST THE 18 Salisbury Rd., Tsim Sha Tsui (& 800/ hotel, built in 1928, exudes elegance 327-0200 in the U.S., or 852/2721 and colonial splendor, with one of the 1211): No hotel lobby boasts a better most famous, ornate lobbies in town, a view of Victoria Harbour and Hong must for afternoon tea.
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