1 The Best of

Hong Kong is such a feast for the senses, it reminds me of a movie set. Maybe I’m an incurable romantic, but when I stand at the railing of the famous Star Ferry as it glides across the harbor, ride a rickety old tram as it winds its way across , or marvel at the stunning views afforded from atop , I can’t help but think I must have somehow landed in the middle of an epic drama where the past has melted into the present. So many images float by—wooden boats bobbing up and down in the harbor beside huge ocean liners; crumbling tenements next to ultra- modern high-rises; squalid alleys behind luxury hotels; elderly people pushing wheelbar- rows as Rolls-Royces glide by; market vendors selling chicken feet and dried squid while talking on cellphones. In fact, one of the most striking characteristics of Hong Kong is this interweaving of seeming contradictions and the interplay of the exotic and the technically advanced. There are as many skyscrapers here as you’re likely to see anywhere, but they’re built with bamboo scaffolding and in accordance with the principles of feng shui. Historic trams rumble through Central, while below ground is one of the most efficient subways in the world, complete with the world’s first “contactless” tickets, cards that can be waved over a scanner without even taking them out of your purse or wallet. The city has what are arguably some of the best and most sophisticated restaurants in the world, but it also has , street-side food stalls. Hong Kong is home to one of the world’s largest shopping malls, but lively makeshift street markets are virtually everywhere. The more you search for in Hong Kong, the more you’ll find. Before long, you, too, may find yourself swept up in the drama.

1 THE MOST UNFORGETTABLE TRAVEL EXPERIENCES

• Observing a Chinese Festival: Hong world. The trip is a good reminder that Kong celebrates with several colorful Hong Kong, with its breathtaking sky- festivals throughout the year, featuring line, is dominated by water, with one of everything from dragon boat races to the world’s busiest harbors. See p. 43. celebrations honoring Tin Hau, goddess • Gazing upon Hong Kong from Victo- of the sea.COPYRIGHTED opera, performed ria Peak:MATERIAL You don’t know Hong Kong on temporary stages, is also common at until you’ve seen it from here. Take the Chinese festivals. See “Hong Kong Cal- funicular to Victoria Peak, famous for endar of Events” in chapter 3. its views of Central, , • Riding the Star Ferry: The subway , , and undu- between Kowloon and Hong Kong lating hills beyond, followed by a Island may be quicker, but it doesn’t 1-hour circular hike and a meal with a hold a candle to the historic Star Ferry, view. Don’t miss the nighttime view, offering one of the most dramatic—and one of the most spectacular and roman- cheapest—5-minute boat rides in the tic in the world. See p. 172. 4 Hong Kong Region

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Island MMacauacau HHongong KongKong PPotoiotoi a IslandIsland Se area of detail ina Ch South China Sea South 6 • Listening to the World’s Largest Pro- (and enjoy great views of the harbor fessional Chinese Orchestra: Estab- and skyline along the way), followed by lished 30 years ago, the 80-member a hair-raising bus ride over lush hills to Hong Kong Chinese Orchestra is the see the world’s largest, seated, outdoor world’s largest, playing traditional and bronze Buddha, located at the Po Lin modern Chinese instruments in orches- Monastery. Complete your pilgrimage trations that combine Chinese and with a vegetarian meal at the monastery Western musical elements. See p. 240. and a visit to Ngong Ping Village with • Celebrating Sundown with a Cock- its shopping and Walking with Buddha tail: Many hotel lounges offer spectacu- museum, and then make your return lar views of the city as well as live music. trip via cable car offering more great As the sun disappears, watch the city views. See the “Lantau” section of chap- explode in neon. See “The Bar, Pub & ter 11, beginning on p. 264. Lounge Scene,” in chapter 10, begin- • Zipping over to Macau: Macau, for ning on p. 244, for venues with espe- centuries a Portuguese outpost until it cially good views. was handed back to the Chinese in • Partying until Dawn in Lan Kwai 1999, is just an hour away by jetfoil and Fong: It’s standing room only at bars offers a fascinating blend of Chinese and pubs in Central’s most famous and Mediterranean lifestyles, evident in THE BEST OF HONG KONG HONG OF BEST THE nightlife district, where the action spills its spicy Macanese cuisine, colorful 1 out onto the street and continues until architecture, temples, churches, and dawn. Other burgeoning nightlife dis- handful of special-interest museums. tricts include SoHo, , It’s also famous for its Las Vegas– and . See chapter 10. style casinos. Although you can “do” • Paying Respects at the Big Buddha: Macau in a day, I strongly urge you to Laze on the open aft deck during the spend at least a couple days here. See 50-minute ferry ride to Lantau island chapter 12.

2 THE BEST SPLURGE HOTELS

• Hotel InterContinental Hong Kong, old dame of Hong Kong, this historic

THE BEST SPLURGE HOTELS SPLURGE BEST THE 18 Salisbury Rd., (& 800/ hotel, built in 1928, exudes elegance 327-0200 in the U.S., or 852/2721 and colonial splendor, with one of the 1211): No hotel lobby boasts a better most famous, ornate lobbies in town, a view of Victoria Harbour and Hong must for afternoon tea. A tower with a Kong Island than the light-infused top-floor restaurant designed by lobby of this standout property, right at Philippe Starck, a state-of-the-art spa, water’s edge in Tsim Sha Tsui. State-of- classes ranging from cooking to tai chi, the-art rooms (most with harbor views), Hong Kong’s most venerable restau- a spa renowned for its anti-jet lag and rants, and outstanding service assure healing treatments, restaurants that are this historic hotel a top rating despite as fun as they are excellent, and free tai newer and more glamorous competi- chi and yoga classes make this one of tors. See p. 85. the city’s top choices. See p. 85. • Island Shangri-La Hong Kong, Pacific • The Peninsula, Salisbury Road, Tsim Place, Central (& 866/565-5050 in Sha Tsui (& 866/382-8388 in the the U.S., or 852/2877 3838): There’s U.S., or 852/2920 2888): The grand no mistaking you’re anywhere but Asia in Hong Kong Island’s tallest hotel, or 852/2522 0111): This is one of 7 adorned with lush Tai Ping carpets, Hong Kong’s oldest yet newest hotels, artistic flower arrangements, and more first opened in 1963 but recently reno- than 500 paintings, including the vated from top to bottom. Travelers world’s largest Chinese landscape paint- returning for repeat stays will find ing. Spacious rooms combine Asian familiarity in the Captain’s Bar, the touches (like Chinese lacquerware TV Chinnery, Clipper’s Lounge, and Man- cabinets) with up-to-date technology darin Grill, all back by popular demand, (like LCD TVs and DVD players), but but new are the spa with a 1930s the top-floor French restaurant opts for Shanghai ambiance, restaurants serving THE BEST OF HONG KONG old-world charm as it wows with one of French and international cuisine, and the best dining views in Hong Kong. luxuriously remodeled rooms with great See p. 87. sitting rooms where the balconies used • Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd., to be. See p. 88. Central (& 800/5260 6567 in the U.S.,

3 THE BEST MODERATELY PRICED HOTELS

• Eaton Hotel, 380 Nathan Rd., Yau Ma about this hotel, but I love its location Tei (& 800/223-5652 in the U.S., or near the Central–Mid-Levels Escalator 852/2782 1818): This efficient hotel in a residential neighborhood, its out- 1

goes the extra mile, with free daily standing views from otherwise standard THE BEST MODERATELY PRICED HOTELS guided tours of the nearby Temple rooms, its coffee shop with an outdoor Street Night Market, a four-story glass- terrace, and its outdoor pool. A great enclosed atrium lobby overlooking a choice for expat wannabes. See p. 99. garden terrace, a rooftop pool, and free • Jia, 1–5 Irving St., Causeway Bay Internet service in its cafe. See p. 94. (& 852/3196 9000): Designed by • The Luxe Manor, 39 Kimberley Rd., Philippe Starck, this boutique hotel is Tsim Sha Tsui (& 852/3763 8888): Hong Kong’s hippest, with 54 stylish This boutique hotel is like no other, rooms complete with kitchenettes and with a whimsical decor that resembles a entertainment centers. Guests also stage setting for Alice in Wonderland— enjoy a host of freebies, including free but designed by Salvador Dalí. Unusu- local calls, free Internet access, free ally shaped furniture, faux fireplaces, breakfast and cocktail hour, free access and other fun touches make a stay here to a nearby gym, and—for long-staying totally out of the ordinary. See p. 96. guests—a free massage. See p. 101. • Lan Kwai Fong Hotel @ Kau U Fong, • Lanson Place Boutique Hotel & Resi- 3 Kau U Fong, Central (& 852/3650 dences, 133 Leighton Rd., Causeway 0000): I love this boutique hotel for Bay (& 852/3477 6888): This Jia several reasons, including its chic Chi- competitor offers much of the same at nese decor and its colorful location in slightly lower prices, including upbeat, the Western District near Graham contemporary rooms with kitchenettes Street Market. See p. 99. (and a welcoming basket of goodies), • Bishop Lei International House, 4 large LCD TVs, and DVD players Robinson Rd., Mid-Levels (& 852/ (there’s a free DVD library). Breakfast 2868 0828): There’s nothing fancy and Wi-Fi are also free. See p. 101. 8 4 THE MOST UNFORGETTABLE DINING EXPERIENCES

• Eating Your Way Through China: “Around Hong Kong Island” in chapter There’s no better place in the world 6, beginning on p. 161. to sample regional Chinese cuisine • Dining on Dim Sum: Nothing con- than Hong Kong, where you can eat veys a sense of Chinese life more vividly everything from the ubiquitous Can- than a visit to a crowded, lively Canton- tonese food to Sichuan, Shanghainese, ese restaurant for breakfast or lunch, Hunanese, Beijing, Chiu Chow, and when you can feast on spring rolls, Pekingese dishes. See chapter 6. steamed dumplings, and other goodies • Stuffing Yourself at a Buffet Spread: If served in bamboo steamers. See the you have a big appetite or like variety in “Dim Sum” section in chapter 6, begin- your meals, the best Hong Kong bar- ning on p. 165, for more on Hong gain is the all-you-can-eat buffet spread. Kong’s dim sum restaurants. Almost all hotels offer buffet lunches • Taking High Tea at a Posh Hotel: The and dinners; other restaurants may fea- British rulers may be gone, but their

THE BEST OF HONG KONG HONG OF BEST THE ture buffets for lunch. Most offer an legacy lives on in the afternoon tea. assortment of international fare, from Virtually all upper-class hotels offer 1 Japanese sushi and Chinese dishes to afternoon tea, but my favorites are pasta and carveries. See chapter 6. those offered by The Peninsula and • Dining with a View: Enjoy Chinese or Hotel InterContinental. Come for Western cuisine at one of Hong Kong’s afternoon tea, nibble on finger sand- many restaurants that offer spectacular wiches, and gaze away. See p. 169. views of either Kowloon (with its glow- • Relaxing at an Open-Air Seafood Res- ing neon lights) or Hong Kong Island taurant: Get rid of stress by relaxing (with its skyscrapers and Victoria Peak). over a meal of fresh seafood at one of In fact, Hong Kong boasts so many Hong Kong’s rural waterfront seafood restaurants with views, the dilemma restaurants. My favorite place is Lamma will be in the choosing. The absolute island. See p. 271. winners? Those atop Victoria Peak. See

5 THE BEST THINGS TO DO FOR FREE OR ALMOST

• Expand Your Horizons at Hong • Explore Hong Kong’s Parks: Hong Kong’s Museums: A Museum Pass Kong’s parks are destinations in them- THE BEST THINGS TO DO FOR FREE OR ALMOST OR FREE FOR DO TO THINGS BEST THE allowing entry to seven major muse- selves, offering a wide range of free ums, covering everything from Chinese activities and attractions. Among the art and Hong Kong’s history to space, most unique are Kowloon Walled City science, and cultural life in the New Park, once a no-man’s land of slums Territories, costs just HK$30 (US$3.90/ and now a Chinese garden; Kowloon £1.95). Or, go on Wednesday, when Park, with free kung fu demonstrations these same museums are absolutely free. and a small arts fair on Sundays; and For more information on Hong Kong’s Hong Kong Park, with a huge aviary museums, see chapter 7. and the Museum of Tea Ware. For descriptions of Hong Kong’s many • Stroll Tsim Sha Tsui’s Waterfront: A 9 parks, see chapter 7. pedestrian promenade stretches from • Meet the People: Learn about pearls, the Star Ferry eastward along the Sha jade, feng shui (geomancy), Cantonese Tsui and Tsim Sha Tsui East waterfront, opera, Chinese tea, and other cultural providing close-up views of the harbor traditions on free, 1-hour tours and and Hong Kong Island with its sky- lectures given by local experts. Inexpen- scrapers. After dark, this is a wonderful sive harbor cruises are also available romantic stroll, with the lights of Hong aboard an authentic junk. To learn Kong Island shimmering across the more about the Hong Kong Tourism water. A bonus: Every evening at 8pm, THE BEST OF HONG KONG Board’s “Meet the People” program, Hong Kong puts on a spectacular laser- stop by an HKTB Visitor Information and-light show projected from sky- & Services Centre for the Cultural scrapers on both sides of the harbor. Kaleidoscope brochure (or find it online The best place to see this colorful at www.discoverhongkong.com by extravaganza? On the Tsim Sha Tsui clicking on “Heritage”), which outlines waterfront. See p. 211. the current free offerings. See p. 193. • Get Cultured at the Hong Kong Cul- • Get Up Early to Watch Tai Chi: Before tural Center: Free family shows on breakfast, head to one of Hong Kong’s Saturdays from 3 to 5pm, which may many parks to watch people going feature Chinese dance, a magic show, or through the slow, graceful motions of tai music, and Thursday Happy Hour 1 chi. For the best viewing, go to Kowloon from 6 to 7pm spotlighting local groups

Park, Hong Kong Park, Victoria Park, or performing Chinese classical music, THE BEST SHOPPING EXPERIENCES the Zoological and Botanical Gardens puppetry, and other acts, are great (see “Parks & Gardens,” of chapter 7, entertainment at a price that can’t be beginning on p. 186, for more on these beat. See p. 211. parks and gardens). You can even par- • Imbibe at Happy Hour at a British ticipate in free practice sessions, held Pub: To save money engaged in our four mornings a week on the Tsim Sha favorite sport (we are talking darts here, Tsui waterfront promenade and once a aren’t we?), end a busy day of sightsee- week in Admiralty. See p. 196. ing and shopping by rubbing elbows • Explore the Western District: Pro- with Hong Kong’s working population duce, bolts of cloth, live snakes, gin- as they take advantage of happy-hour seng, dried seafood, Chinese herbs and prices in British pubs throughout the medicines, an historic temple, a city. Most pubs and bars offer a happy museum dedicated to Chinese and hour that can stretch on for hours, with Western medicine, and antiques and two drinks for the price of one or drinks collectibles are just some of the things at reduced prices. See “The Bar, Pub & you’ll see while strolling through one of Lounge Scene” section of chapter 10, Hong Kong’s most fascinating neigh- beginning on p. 244, for more on Hong borhoods. See p. 203. Kong’s pubs and bars.

6 THE BEST SHOPPING EXPERIENCES

• Looking for Chinese Souvenirs: Hong birdcages, jade, jewelry, silk jackets, Kong has some great Chinese empori- furniture, teas, and various Chinese ums, selling vases, vase stands, porcelain crafts and products. See chapter 9. figurines, chinaware, calligraphy brushes, 10 • Browsing Antiques Shops on Holly- sides of the harbor and in operation wood Road: Whether you have thou- from morning to night. Most famous is sands of dollars to spend on Ming Temple Street Night Market, where you dynasty heirlooms or just a couple of can shop for casual clothing, music, bucks for a snuff bottle, there’s some- toys, and accessories; enjoy a meal at a thing for everyone in the dozens of dai pai dong (roadside food stall); watch antiques shops lining this famous Hong amateur street musicians; and have your Kong Island road and from outdoor fortune told. See p. 233. vendor stalls on nearby Cat Street. A • Bargain-Hunting in Stanley: Stall sightseeing bonus is Man Mo Temple after stall of casual wear, silk clothing, (p. 183), Hong Kong’s oldest temple, tennis shoes, accessories, and souvenirs on Hollywood Road. See p. 203 and and crafts imported from China make the “Antiques & Collectibles” section of this a shopper’s paradise. And after a chapter 9, beginning on p. 223. day of bargaining, I like to recuperate in • Window-Shopping on : one of Stanley’s trendy yet casual restau- Open-fronted clothing boutiques, jew- rants. See p. 234. elry stores, camera shops, tailors, tour- • Shopping for Everything at a Mall: ists from around the world, international Hong Kong is famous for its shopping cuisine, huge neon signs, and whirling malls, and with good reason. Ranging THE BEST OF HONG KONG HONG OF BEST THE traffic combine to make this boulevard from humongous affairs like Harbour 1 Hong Kong’s most famous shopping City to chic, high-end complexes like street. See p. 212. ifc mall, shopping malls are great • Feeling Groovy at Shanghai Tang: escapes on humid or rainy days and This 1930s-style Chinese department offer everything from clothing and toys store is oh-so-chic, with lime-green- or to electronics and antiques. See “Mega- fuchsia-colored jackets, 1930s repro- malls & Shopping Centers” in chap- duction home decor, and more. The ter 9, beginning on p. 235. shopping bag that comes with your • Visiting a Tailor: Nothing beats the purchase is a bonus—just way too satisfaction of having something cus- cool—and the shop’s free postcards are tom-made to fit you perfectly. If this is also pretty fab. See p. 227. your dream, make a trek to a tailor one • Bargaining at a Street Market: Hong of your first priorities so that you’ll have Kong has more street markets than you time for several fittings. See p. 236. can shake a stick at, located on both THE BEST ACTIVITIES FOR FAMILIES FOR ACTIVITIES BEST THE 7 THE BEST ACTIVITIES FOR FAMILIES

• Running Free in Hong Kong’s City • Cavorting with Mickey at Hong Kong Parks: Hong Kong’s parks are great Disneyland: The smallest of the world’s destinations for families. Children can Disney properties, Hong Kong Disney- go swimming or explore playgrounds at land nevertheless has the usual attrac- (including one with tions, high-powered shows, and restored fortifications and cannon fireworks extravaganzas, as well as the emplacements), see jaguars and mon- world’s only Fantasy Gardens, where keys at the Zoological and Botanical kids can meet famous Disney charac- Gardens, and walk through an aviary at ters. A must for families crossing all Hong Kong Park. See p. 186. Disney properties off their to-do list. See p. 189. • Regressing to Childhood at Ocean wonderful goldfish, an aviary, pandas, 11 Park: Southeast Asia’s largest oceanar- and a dolphin and killer whale show. A ium and fun park boasts one of the must for kids of all ages. See p. 189. world’s longest and fastest roller coast- • Heading for the Beach: Life’s a beach ers among its many thrill rides; a great at a number of Hong Kong Island des- cable-car ride with breathtaking views tinations, but to make an excursion out of the South China Sea; and play- of it, take a ferry (kids love that!) to one grounds just for kids. If it’s wildlife of the outlying islands like Cheung you’re wild about, you’ll find the world’s Chau or Lamma, where there are largest reef aquarium, a shark tank with beaches with lifeguards, changing THE BEST OF HONG KONG an underwater pedestrian tunnel, a rooms, and showers. See p. 195, 267, fascinating collection of weird and and 269.

8 THE BEST OFFBEAT EXPERIENCES

• Taking a Tram: Take a double-decker birds at this unusual garden, brought by tram ride from one end of Hong Kong their owners so they can sing and com- Island to the other for an unparalleled municate with other birds on their daily view of life in the crowded city as you outing. Vendors sell exotic birds, pass skyscrapers, street markets, tradi- wooden birdcages, porcelain bird dishes, tional Chinese shops, and department and other paraphernalia. See p. 187 1

stores. See p. 43. and 210. THE BEST OFFBEAT EXPERIENCES • Hopping Aboard the Central–Mid- • Escaping to the : The Levels Escalator: Hop aboard the New Territories are a vast area stretch- world’s longest covered people mover as ing from the densely populated Kow- it snakes its way uphill in a series of loon to the Chinese border. Almost half escalators. You can hop off at one of 29 of Hong Kong’s population is housed exits to enjoy a drink or meal at one of here in huge satellite towns, but pockets the many establishments along its link, of rural life and preserved country parks or take it to the top for a 20-minute remain. One of the best things to do is ride. See p. 46. follow a self-guided hike that will take • Having Your Fortune Told: Want to you past traditional Chinese homes, know about your future love life, mar- temples, and other buildings in a small riage, family, or career? Consult one of village. See p. 255. Hong Kong’s many fortune-tellers; • Hiking Across Lamma: An excursion those who speak English can be found to this outlying island will do your soul at Man Mo Temple in the Western good. Start with the 35-minute ferry District, Wong Tai Sin temple, and the trip, followed by a 90-minute hike Tin Hau Temple near the Temple Street across the island, perhaps some swim- Night Market. See p. 183, 183, and ming at a beach, and finally a meal of 216, respectively. fresh seafood at an open-air waterfront • Hearing the Birds Sing at Yuen Po restaurant. See the “Lamma” section of Street Bird Garden: See pampered chapter 11, beginning on p. 269.