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1978 Backpacking: Trails to Nebraska's Great Outdoors. Jon Farrar Nebraska Game and Parks Commission

Bill Owca Nebraska Game and Parks Commission

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Farrar, Jon and Owca, Bill, "Backpacking: Trails to Nebraska's Great Outdoors." (1978). Nebraska Game and Parks Commission Publications. 125. http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/nebgamepubs/125

This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Nebraska Game and Parks Commission at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Nebraska Game and Parks Commission Publications by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. Title: Backpacking: Trails to Nebraska's Great Outdoors. Author(s): Farrar, Jon. Owca, Bill. Publication: Lincoln, Nebraska : Game & Parks Commission, Year: 1978 Description: 14 pages illustrations Language: English Abstract: Brochure describes various hiking/backpacking areas in Nebraska and provides maps of suggested routes. References: Nebraska State Publications Checklist; 1972-1991; v. 09; 0091-0406

SUBJECT(S) Descriptor: Backpacking -- Nebraska. Hiking -- Nebraska. Backpacking. Hiking. Geographic: Nebraska. Class Descriptors: GovDoc: G1000 H046 -1978 Material Type: Government publication (gpb); State or province government publication (sgp)

I' Back acking: Trails ----1 Outdoors iking the issouri River Country Phot os by lon farrar

IKERS TRE KKI NG Indian Cave Indian Cave w ildlife, like the flora, Indian Cave's backpackin g trai ls of­ State Park north of Fall s Ci ty possesses a distincti ve flavor of the fer a va riety of terrain and surfaces. Of Hw il l be in Nebraska 's only O za rk s. Turkey vultures summer and necess ity, many of th e trai Is traverse ha rdwood fo rest. The park's rugged probably nes t here. Ruffed grouse hilly bluff country, but ridge lines af­ terra in is shaped by the rolling bluffs have been reported and a choru s of ford so me stretches of re lat ively flat overlooking the Missouri Ri ver and w hip-poor-wil l and tree-frog ca ll s walkin g. Though trail s are steep in va lley cuts carved by interm ittent usher in summer evenings. Skittery so me areas, there are no rocky or ex­ drainages. A va ri ety of oaks and hick­ gray squirrels dance through the tree­ tremely difficult portions. The bulk of ories, ash , basswood, walnut and cot­ tops of ancient nut trees, and a throng the trail s are recently cut and well tonwood loom over the dense growth of woodland birds-warblers, oven­ maintai ned to make hi kin g a pleasu re, of woodland shrubs and wildflowers. birds, thrushes, grosbeaks and indigo yet preservi ng the w ilderness setting. During M ay the forest floor is co lored buntings-comb th e understory for Abandoned access roads, as well as by phlox and May apple, colu mbine seeds an d insects. The M isso uri's those still used by park personnel, and Dutchman's breeches, ye ll ow la­ unique plant and animal life make it a make up th e rest of the M issouri River dysli ppers and showy orchis. must for the naturali st hiker. Trail Country. Indian Before You Hike • Camping is allowed in designated ca mpsites only, and fires are al­ lowed only in the fire rings pro­ Cave vided . Campsi tes are situated at many points along the trai ls. Some Nebraska's hardwood forest; are near pit toilets, but most are not. steeped in history, Water is avai lable at wells along the rich in fauna and flora trai l. • Backpacking an d hiking are allowed on any park trai l, including the nine­ mi le horse trail in the southeast por­ ti on of the park.

• An occasional timber rattlesnake is encountered at Indian Cave, espe­ cially during th e denning seaso ns. A snake bite ki t is a good idea even though it pro bably will not be used.

• Vehicles, incl uding motorcycles, are allowed on paved roads onl y.

• All backpackers should check in at park headquarters before hiking.

• Garbage should be packed out or dispo sed of in rece ptac les, not buried.

• Indian Cave is a heavy use area. Minimum impact camping and a re­ spect for the ri ghts of others is es­ sential to maintain the w ildern ess experience.

~Roads ..-,Parking •• '• -·Trails A Campsites 4 Shelters 0 Water

800 1600 2400

Sca le in Feet Photm b' lon Farrar Suggested Hikes The trails at In dian Cave State Park loop and inter­ connect frequently, affording a wide choice of terrain, campsites and length. There are campsites w ithin a quarter of a mile of parking areas and others far more remote, especially in the southern portion of the park. Several hikes are suggested here, but the options available are only as limited as the backpacker's imagination. A medium-length hike with fairly rugged walking starts at the beginning of the horse trails and courses eastward through the park's w ild south section along the Hardwood Trail. This route leads the backpacker through the park's finest display of native oaks and hickories, and woodland flowers. The trail traces ridge tops for much of the way but crosses a number of deep va lley cuts as well. A water pump is available along the way and there is a choice of campsites including five w ith Ad iro ndack shelters. Th e trail suggested here turns back to the north before reach­ ing the Indian Cave, an option many backpackers wi ll choose to add. No vehicles are allowed to "overn ight" in the cave parking area. A second hike, along Rock Bluff Run, traces the bluff line through the center section of the park. This trail can "head" either at the parking areas below St Deroin school or w here the horse trail crosses the paved road west of the cave. Rock Blu ff Run offers the park 's best view of the Missouri Ri ve r and the vast floodplain beyond. There are two shelters and two campsites on Rock Bluff Run, but several other ca mpsites and water are along short trails that finger in from the paved road to the west. Back­ packers can design their own variations, incorporating lateral trails to create short day hikes or using them for quick access to the middle section of Rock Bluff Run . orth Ridge Tra il offers a short two to three-hour hike between St Deroin sc hool and the north day-use area. No overnight ve hicles are allowed in the day-use area. Ambitious backpackers could link up the three trail s for a two-day hike that travels the length of the park.

N OR THE IMAGINATIVE hiker who is not convinced that back­ packing and mountains are synonymous, the 71 ,500 acres of the Hiking FValentine ati onal Wildlife Refuge south of Valentine offers so litude in a setting of natural lakes, marshes, lu sh meadows and sand­ hills. The terrai n is extremely rolling with the primary rid ges ori ented in a northwest-so utheast fas hion. Consequently, any hike that fo ll ows the Lake a north-south line w ill prove fairly strenuous. Two routes are outlined on the map which take good advantage of va ll eys or fol low maintenance roads. Most of the refuge is open to backpacking and many hikers will choose to design their own routes ,------...-,.Country to reach areas of personal interest or of lengths that can be handled comfortably. Over 16,000 acres in the southwest portion of the refuge are a proposed Wilderness Area and closed to all veh icle traffic. The treeless sandhills can become scorching hot during summer months, so hikers will probably prefer to plan trips durin g spring and fall. The lake country presents many opportunities to combine other outdoor recreation with backpacking.

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PavedRoad = ~ A Campsites A Backpacking Trail ·--·­ Valentine o Scale in Miles The spring months of April, May Overnight camping is not allowed and june are the peak of waterbird mi­ on the refuge, so routes should be de­ gration and nesting, for hikers inter­ signed to end on one of the two adja­ ested in wildlife photography. june is cent state special use areas. These are also one of the better months for no-frill, primitive-camping areas with­ wildflower enthusiasts. These same out water or san itary facilities. The months provide the best opportunity special use area on the north border of for the hiker to supplement his dehy­ the refuge lies to the north and east of drated food diet with fresh northern Willow Lake. The special use area on pike, largemouth bass or panfish. the south border of the refuge is just September and October present the north of the constriction between Rat prairi e in its finest shades of golds and and Beaver lakes. A fairly extensive browns, and coincide with the prairie­ planting of pines overlooking Rat and grouse season. Only the refuge west of Beaver lakes makes it an especially at­ the highway is open to hunting. tractive campsite. Both areas border Nights are cool and days balmy at this on private land but are clearly marked time of the year. with boundary signs.

,... Before You Hike Overnight camping is not al ­ • Fires of any type, including lowed on the refuge. Camp­ stoves, are prohibited on the sites are avai lable on two spe­ refuge, and only small, back­ cial-use areas north and south packer-type stoves or Coleman­ of th e refuge. Special care types are allowed on the spe­ should be taken to avo id tres­ cial-use areas. The danger of passing on private land. range fires always exists and backpackers should take all Overni ght parking is res tri cted necessary preca utions to avoid to the Hackberry Lake hea d­ starting one. quarters, and all backpackers • Water and restrooms are avai l­ are requested to check in be­ ab le at the Hackberry Lake fore hiking. headquarters only. • The natural areas located be­ • Firearms are not allowed on the tween Hackberry and Dewey refuge except during lega l Lake Marsh, and between hunting seasons, and al l trash Dewey Lake and Whitewater shou ld be packed out, not ... Lake are off limits. buried . Valentine's Suggested Hikes Two routes are suggested here but The Long Lakes Trail is more strenuous backpackers are free to design their own and recommended only for experienced hike; in fact, there are no formal trails as backpackers. It originates at the refuge such on the refuge. The recommended headquarters and proceeds south past the routes will give hikers unfamiliar with the west end of Hackberry Lake and Dewey refuge or sandhi lis' walking, an idea of dis­ Lake Marsh to the west end of Pe lican tances that can be covered in a day. What­ Lake. Th e wooded hills along Pelican's ever the route, allow enough time to reach south shore will probably woo backpack­ one of the campsites off the refuge by ers on a southeasterly course paralleling sundown. Undulating terrain adds consid­ them. A third of the way down the lake, erably to map-planned miles. the suggested trail cuts south to Dad's Bluestem Trail is relatively short and Lake, past Mule Lake and on to the Rat easy goi ng. It originates and terminates at and Beaver lakes campsite for the night, a the refuge headquarters. The western half total hike of approximately 11 mi les. of Hackberry's south shore is a natural area The next day's route proceeds north to and off limits. Th e lookout tower should Dad's Lake wooded south side, and con­ serve as a point of ori en tation on the trail tinues north through high sa ndhills and south to the Dewey Lake Marsh. The trail hay meadows to the east end of Dewey turns east here and traces the north shore Lake. The trail's last leg follows the north of Dewey Lake Marsh and Dewey Lake to shore of Dewey and Hackberry lakes to Willow Lake Special-Use Area for the headquarters. This is a hard hike, some 14 night, a seven to eight-mile walk. The miles. Some backpackers will choose to Bluestem Trail returns by a short (about six stop after 9 miles at the Willow Lake miles) hike along the north shore of Clear ca mpsite for the night and complete the and Hackberry lakes. walk the following morning. HE BESSEY DIVISION of the Nebraska National Forest, wedged between the Middle Loup and TDismal rivers, offers backpackers a variety of ter­ rain, vegetation and wildlife. The pristine mixed-grass prairie is accented by dense sta nds of Nebra ska's only man-made forest. Most of the "forest " is actually prairie-rolling hills of sa nd locked in place by sa ndreed, bluestem, lovegrass and several dozen other grasses and forbs. Prairi e dogs, antelope, mule deer, kangaroo rats, sharp-tailed grouse and other w ildlife indigenous to the prairie, will likely be encountered by hikers. Forest personnel can direct backpackers to prairie dog towns or sharp-tailed grouse display grounds. Of the 90,CXXJ acres included in the Bessey D ivision, some 10,500 acres are covered by hand-planted ponde­ rosa pine with occasional sta nds of jack pine, Scotch pine, Austrian pine and juniper. Broad, grassy meadows and firebreaks relieve the monotony of this "rea l" forest. Grassland wildlife still claims the woods, but hikers may also encounter w hite-tail ed deer, porcupines and w ild tu rkey coexisting w ith it. Most of the trails are pri mitive roadways used by forest personnel for maintenance. Each has its own character. Some are clea rl y laid through the grassland, others are barely vis ible in the knee- high grass. Footing can vary from firm to soft on the trails and is generall y quite loose elsewhere. Some trails are steep, others flat, some winding and an occasional exception, straight. Many offshoots from main trails dead -end at windmill s, making it important to pick the correct trail. A va ri ety of loops can be selected to suit the hikers' tastes in terrain and vegetation. Primitive camping is al­ lowed throughout the area .

Photo'> b\ Jon F.. mar Before You Hike Halsey

Backpacking is allowed on any Some areas are closed to vehi­ • of the ational Forest lands. • cles. Check at the headquarters before leaving the paved road . Fi res are a constant hazard and consequently so me areas are Windmills and wells are nu­ • merous and most are running closed during dry peri ods. The • National Forest has a season throughout the summer. during whi ch open fires are prohibited. A perm it is req uired Blowouts on access trai ls can to camp in the forest regardless • be soft and deep, particu larly of the time of year, and occa­ when dry. Cars shou ld not be sional peri ods of fire hazard dri ve n off the major routes. may require a complete ban on any form of campi ng. At other There is a small population of times, camping w ith open fires • prairie rattlesnakes on the for­ is permitted in most locations. est, p ri m aril y alo ng some Ca ll ah ea d to co nf irm that stretches of the Dismal River camping is being allowed, and during the spring and fal l den­ register at headquarters to learn ning seasons, so reasonab le current conditions. caution should be exercised.

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=Road A Campsites ,. -· '• Backpacking Trail 0

Scale in Mile\ Photo b\ Lou El l

w hi ch joins White Sa nd Trail from th e west and w ith Prairie View Trail w hich join s fro m the east. just beyond this junction is a ca mping site close to a w indmill and an open, grassy area. The trail to thi s point has covered about 7 miles. Th e Hardwoods Area on the Dismal Rive r at For the beginner, this may be plen ty for one day, but the experi enced the so utheast corn er of the fores t serves as an ex­ backpacker may w ish to continue on Coyote Ru n Trail to th e grave l road, ce llent base ca mp and starting point for a num­ north on the grave l road (0.3 mile), and then west to another w indmill ber of hikes of va ri ous length s over di fferent (1 .5 miles ). Thi s point is 10 to 11 miles from the Hard woods base ca mp. types of terrain. From these two ca mpsites there are a number of options for th e re­ Longstem Trail begins about 100 yard s west of turn hike. Backpackers at the first ca mpsite may take the Prairi e View the ca mp and runs north over th e hill to a fence Trail east (1 .2 miles ) and then south pa ralleling the fence line to th e Di s­ gat e (0.7 mile). O nce through the gate, the trail mal Ri ve r and west to the Hardwoods ca mp (3.5 to 4 miles). This route wends to the west (0.2 mile) before cross ing the w ill take the hiker out of the pin es and into hi gh sa ndhills. The trail is White Sand Trail. Turn north on White Sa nd and soft and the wa lking strenuous. follow it up the hills into the timber. Th e nex t Hikers at the seco nd ca mpsite ca n proceed west on Coyote Run Trail junction is w ith Camp Fi ve Trail (2.3 miles ) north (1.7 miles ) and south (1 .2 miles) to the paved road . From this point there on a w inding trail that approaches the inter­ are a va ri ety of options. Nelso n Firebrea k Trail leads back to the grave l secti on from the east. Camp Fi ve Trail runs west road and to Firebreak, Camp Fi ve or Lo ngs tem trail s w hich return to the back to th e grave l road (2.8 miles). To continue Hard woods ca mp. Another opti on woul d be to strike out sou th from th e along White Sa nd Trail go ri ght, over the deeply paved road to the Blu e Banks camp (6 to 7 mil es) on the Dis mal Ri ve r for cut sandy rid ge, north to a second junction, Fire­ a second night's ca mp. From Blue Ba nks east to th e Hardwoods area break Trail (2.5 miles ). Fi rebreak Trail also ret urns is a scenic fi ve- mile hike along the Dismal Rive r. to the grave l (2.8 mi les) . W hi te Sa nd Trail contin­ Other hikes ca n be des igned by the imaginat ive backpacker. Th ere ues th ro ugh one of the most sceni c parts of the are no signs along the trail s, making occasional glances at a detailed forest to its next junction w ith Coyote Run Trail map necessary to avo id exhausting mi stakes. Hiking the Pine idge

ORT ROBINSON and adjoining Soldier Creek Wood Reserve offer a unique ver­ sion of traditional " mountain" backpacking trails in Nebraska. Admittedly, the Fhighest ridges are only 4,600 feet above sea level, some 600 feet above creeks that carved the sa ndstone buttes, but the effect is much the same-rocky trail s of high re­ lief, strenuous walking, and cool nights. There are numerous steep-walled side can­ yons for wayward hikers to explore. The buttes and canyon sides are forested w ith ponderosa pine, juniper and sc ru bby shrubs. Dec iduous trees-cottonwood, boxelder and w illow-line the creeks and ca nyon bottoms. Blu e gram a, needle-a nd-thread, little bluestem and western w hea tgrass cloak sa ndy-soiled clea rin gs in the pines. The Pine Ri dge's vegetation is at once lu sh and spartan, having adapted to the low rai nfall and meager so il nutrients. Photos by Bob Gner Soldier Creek Suggested Hikes Backpackers in the Soldi er Creek Wood Reserve will be tracing some of the Old West's truly historic trails; paths that have known the tread of deer-skin moccasins, spit-and-polished troopers' boots and creaky stagecoach wheels ca rrying would­ be gold miners to Deadwood. As on other areas, numerous loops al­ low backpackers to design hikes to suit their interest, time and physical condi­ tion. The recommended starting point for hikes in the Wood Reserve is the east gate, reached by way of Soldiers Creek Military Road. Overnight parking is allowed near the gate. Three of the four primary trails in the Wood Reserve follow the three forks of Soldiers Creek. The North, Middle and South forks converge near the east gate so Photo by Jon Fa rrar the excitement of temporarily being " lost" will probably be short-lived. Boots and Saddles Trail begins near the east gate and runs north along the east boundary, loops back to the southwest and then branches: one branch proceed­ ing westward along the northern bound­ ary and crossing the Middle Fork and the Hat Creek Trail; and the second branch wending south along the North Fork to join up with Hat Creek Trail near the site of the old officers' club, a former military fun spot that had living quarters complete with a swimming pool. Boots and Saddles Trail is a good choice for a day's hike. Hat Creek Trail roughly parallels the Middle Fork and provides an easy two­ hour walk from the old officers' club to a spring seeping from a sheer cliff near the remains of an old cabin. All that remains of the cabin is the brick chimney and foundation. This site is an exce ll ent choice for an overnight camp. Trooper Trail sli ces through th e ce nter of the Wood Reserve from the east gate to the west boundary near th e northwes t corner, a hike of about two and one-half As at Indian Cave on the other end The Wood Reserve can be used for hours. The trail is uphill for most of th e of the state, wildlife at Fort Robinson day hikes, overnighters or multi-day hike before entering a grassy mead ow and the Wood Reserve has a dis­ excursions. Forging new trails over the sloping down to the west boundary. tinctive flavor. Hikers will find a sam­ 10,CXX) acres of federal land will appeal The South Fork Trail is about an hour­ pling of mountain birds-Clark's nut­ to the more adventuresome. The trails and-a-half hike from the east gate to near crackers, pinion jays, gray jays, moun­ vary from two-rut vehicle paths to the west boundary. North-south trails on tain bluebirds and red crossbills. Mule small foot trails w ith switchbacks, wa­ the western edge and near th e ce nter of deer and white-tailed deer share the ter bars and rocky climbs. the reserve connect Trooper and South pine buttes. Golden eagles and prairie Fort Robinson trails are well marked Fork trails. falcons nest on sheer cliff sides, Mer­ maintenance roads, abandoned roads Another trail sweeps around th e entire southern boundary from th e east gate to riam's turkeys are common, and signs and cattle trails. There are numerous South Fork Trail on th e west edge of the of bobcat are likely to be encountered, trails in the park, some marked and Wood Reserve. Much of thi s trail passes far more often than the animal itself. mapped, others not. The inter­ through grassland below th e south ridge Hikers will no doubt cross trails with connecting trails loop frequently, al­ of the reserve, and backpackers will find porcupines o r at least their gnawed, lowing a variety of hikes that can be the low relief easy going after the can yon tree-girdling trademarks. tailored to the individual's schedule. climbing of the north trails. Before You Hike Soldier Creek

• Backpacki ng, hiki ng and camping are al ­ • Campfi res are allowed much of the year, lowed anywhere on the W ood Reserve. but may be prohibited during extremely Horses are also perm itted, but th e area is dry periods. Special fire regulations w ill closed to motor ve hicl es, including mo­ be posted at trail entry po ints. torcycles. • The Wood Reserve is grazed during the • No camping, water or sani tary fac ili ties summer months, and management prac­ are provided in the Wood Reserve. tices demand that gates be left as they Primi tive conditions must be maintained are found. Report any damage to the and water is avai lable on ly from the Fo rest Service. creek and at w indmills. • So ldier Creek is an excellent trout stream. • All garbage or litter should be packed By all means, pack in a fly rod, but show out; do not bury- if you can carry it in your respect for these quali ty fish by full, you can carry it out empty! keeping soap out of the \vater.

Soldier Creek This historic region offers backpackers nearly 50 miles of marked trails

Roads= Parking~ Trails ·-·-•• WindmiU k

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Sca le in Mil e\ Before You Hike Fort Rob Fort Robinson • Hiking is permitted and encouraged on most Suggested Hikes park lands at Fort Robinson. The jeep and horse trails are best seen via those means, and hiking Two day-hiking areas are recommended at Fort is directed toward other areas. Camping for Robinson, each with easy access. Butte Crest Trai l in backpackers is allowed only on the north sec­ the McKenzie Pass area east of the fort is scenic tions of the park, north of the )ames Ranch with superb Pine Ridge overlooks. buildings. Camping is not permitted in Smiley Smiley Canyon Trail , the second day-hike area, Canyon or along Soldier Creek outside of the begins at the scenic turnout on U.S. 20 four mi les Wood Reserve. west of the fort. The seven-mile loop leads down to Soldier Creek and back through plains, buttes and • Open fires are prohibited at all times in the riparian woodlands. park due to extreme fire hazard. All cooking There are two major backpacking trails at Fort must be done on backpacking stoves. Rob, both in the northern portion of the park and heading at the )ames Ranch. Numerous unmarked All backpacking parties should register at the and unmapped trails weave through the park for • park office indicating who will be hiking, the those who desire to strike off on their own. destination, estimated length of stay and in­ Spring Creek Trail is an easy one-night trail fol­ tended trail. Additional information about the lowing the fenceline north and northeast along a hiking trails can be picked up at the same time. steep trail up the ridge and down into Spring Creek Valley for a night camp. The second leg of the trail . Backpacking conditions at Fort Robinson are continues northeast around the bluffs and up the • primitive, and no designated camping areas or ridgeline to an overlook of badlands, grasslands and ·' water sources are provided. Any water desired the Black Hills 50 miles to the north. The trail winds ·' should be packed in, and all refuse should be along the ridge before turning south. From there it packed out. is two miles downhill to the trailhead. The entire loop is approximately 10 or 11 miles. Parking for overnighters must be in designated A possible two-night trail follows the first seven • areas at the )ames Ranch trailhead or at the miles of Spring Creek Trail and then connects with Wood Reserve parking area. Day hikers may the Wood Reserve Trail at an old windmill site on park in areas below the east bluffs or on the the west side of the loop. Wood Reserve Trail paral­ Smiley Canyon Road. lels the north boundary in a westward direction to the northeast corner of the Wood Reserve before turning south to Soldier Creek. The Wood Reserve Trail is about four miles long and links Wood Re­ serve trails and those of Fort Robinson. Backpacking ! Th e Trail to Nebraska 's Great O utdoors Nebraska Game and Parks Commission Publi shed by NEBRASKAiand Magazine, Nebraska Game and Parks Commission William G. Lindeken, Chadron. Cha irman Jon Farrar, Coordinator; Text by Bi ll Owca and Jon Farrar Gerald R. (Bud) Ca mpbe ll, Ravenna Robert G. Cu nningham, Omaha H. B. (Tad) Kuntzelman, North Pl atte Sh irley L. M eckel, Burwell Addi tional copies are available from the Nebraska Game and Parks Commission. Ri chard W. Nisley, Roca Dr. Bruce E. Cowgill. Si lver Creek P.O . Box 30370, Lincoln, Nebraska 68503 or any Game Commiss ion office Eugene T. Mahoney, Director