Fantasy Island Lanvin’S Alber Elbaz Glanced Back to a Thirties Glamour Girl While Injecting Whimsy with Fun Embroideries and Glitzy Costume Baubles

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VALENTINO ON SHOW/3 THE OLSENS’ NEW JEWELS/12 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • June 16, 2008 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Fantasy Island Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz glanced back to a Thirties glamour girl while injecting whimsy with fun embroideries and glitzy costume baubles. “It’s about the original idea of cruise, a fantasy vacation,” Elbaz said. One example: the playful cotton T-shirt and silk skirt combo shown here. For more on resort, see pages 4 to 6.

Coming Under Pressure: Activist Shareholders Target Retailers Again By Evan Clark THE GADFLIES ARE BACK — and this time they’ve got deep pockets. Target Corp., Dillard’s Inc., Chico’s FAS Inc., Charming Shoppes Inc., Syms Corp. and Haggar Corp. are just some of the fashion firms that have faced, or are confronting, activist shareholder campaigns. These outsider efforts are often marked by lawsuits, battles to sell divisions or replace board members and the airing of as much dirt as can be excavated. It is all part of the deal when companies tap the public equity markets and open themselves up to See Retailers, Page 15 PHOTO BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 16, 2008 WWD.COM Saks Stock Up on Takeover Probability By Vicki M. Young for which she has a $20-per- WWD reported Oct. 17 that share target price. Baugur was eyeing Saks and that WWDMONDAY hares of Saks Inc. rose 4.2 According to the regula- executives from the Icelandic Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Spercent to close at $12.49 in tory fi ling on Wednesday with investment fi rm had met with New York Stock Exchange trad- the Securities and Exchange the retailer’s management. FASHION ing Friday after Citigroup Inc. Commission, Baugur has paid Baugur confi rmed the report in Alber Elbaz described his Lanvin resort collection as a Frenchifi ed take issued a research note indicat- $42.2 million for the forward an Oct. 29 SEC fi ling and said it on American sportswear, with plenty of that Hamptons easy allure. ing a takeover of the retailer is contracts, and will pay an addi- might team up with Milestone 4 a “probability.” tional $194 million to purchase Resources Group Ltd. for a joint The Icelandic firm Baugur the 12.2 million shares of Saks bid. Milestone is an investment GENERAL Group earlier last week rolled stock under the contracts if they vehicle of Landmark. A new generation of activist, deep-pocket corporate gadfl ies is shaking over its forward contracts from are settled at maturity. Earlier this month, Iceland’s 1 up boards from Target and Dillard’s to Chico’s and Charming Shoppes. July 2007. The new contracts for The filing also repeated Supreme Court in Reykjavik Saks shares mature on July 30. an earlier disclosure that upheld a conviction against ACCESSORIES: Mary-Kate and Ashley Oslen have created a jewelry line Baugur doesn’t currently own Baugur has had exploratory Jón Asgeir Jóhannesson, ex- 12 under their Elizabeth and James label, licensing to Robert Lee Morris. any Saks shares. The nine con- discussions with Dubai-owned ecutive chairman of Baugur, With Tommy Hilfi ger shelving plans, Prada and the Neiman Marcus Group tracts give Baugur the right to Landmark Group, a Saks share- for wrongdoing in bookkeeping. 13 in no hurry and Ferragamo still working on it, IPOs don’t seem fashionable. acquire 12.2 million shares of holder, about the possibility of The court rejected charges that common stock at forward prices a joint bid for the retailer. The prosecutors had leveled against Stringent inventory control may be the mantra for most apparel retailers, ranging from approximately $12 fi ling stated: “Baugur expects Jóhannesson, including fraud, 14 but there is still plenty of fat to trim for better profi tability. to $23 per share. to hold additional discussions embezzlement and misleading According to Deborah with Landmark.” the market by wrong statements Weinswig, retail analyst at Under the contracts, Baugur to the stock exchange. EYE In the middle of a steamy, bustling Manhattan, Bulgari threw a relaxed Citigroup, “We view this news as has the right to acquire 8.5 Forward contracts generally an incremental positive for our percent of Saks’ stock and roll over automatically. A spokes- 20 garden party at the Elizabeth Street Gallery for its Jasmin Noir fragrance. investment thesis for Saks as it Landmark has benefi cial owner- woman for Baugur would only say increases our confi dence that ship of 1.2 percent, or nearly 1.7 the company was obliged to up- Classifi ed Advertisements...... 17-19 there is a probability of a take- million shares. Together, they date its regulatory fi ling because out deal in Saks’ future.” hold 9.7 percent of the retailer’s of the latest legal development. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. Weinswig reiterated her “buy, common stock, should they elect — With contributions from [email protected], using the individual’s name. high risk” rating for Saks shares, to pursue a joint bid. Nina Jones WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2008 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 195, NO. 126. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided Bottega Veneta Tops Social Status Poll by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/ Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications By Valerie Seckler Much of this affl uent crowd, Pedraza said, Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: are from middle- and lower-income back- return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: t’s not showy, nor is it splashed with logos. But grounds, with self-made fi nancial fortunes, and SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA its perception as distinctive, elegant and less “do not want to be seen as an ostentatious, ava- 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE I INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. 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Occasionally, we make our subscriber list “Bottega is subtle and inconspicuous — and known was Calvin Klein, which was number 25 on available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. paradoxically has gotten some press for this,” the social status scale.) If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, Milton Pedraza, chief executive offi cer of the As for other brands on the social status list, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, Luxury Institute, observed of the brand that Valentino was ranked second, followed by Prada, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED topped the poll for the second straight year. “You Chanel and Hermès. Giorgio Armani was in sixth MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR know it if you’re in the know. It’s for people who place, with Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci and DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY aren’t looking to impress others.” Louis Vuitton rounding out the top 10. A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. Bottega was awarded the top slot in a May Brands like Bottega Veneta and Hermès, poll by the Luxury Institute of 1,600 adults with Pedraza said, have a presence as “classic brands, a minimum annual income of $150,000, including not just trends of a season, like an ‘It’ bag. They TUESDAY: The U.S. Labor Department releases the 818 women. are seen as having lasting value.” Producer Price Index for May.

WEDNESDAY: China Textile & Apparel Trade Show, New York (through Friday). Pitti W Woman Precollection, Florence (through Retail Apparel Prices Fall in May Saturday). By Liza Casabona creased 0.3 percent from April quarterly profi ts there could THURSDAY: Hong Kong Jewelry & Watch Fair and and suits and separates were be an impact on company mar- Asia’s Fashion Jewelry & Accessories Fair, Hong Kong WASHINGTON — Driven largely 0.1 percent higher. However, gins if deep discounts have (through Sunday). by discounting, women’s retail compared with May 2007, girls’ been driving retail sales and apparel prices eased in May, apparel prices fell 7.6 percent keeping apparel prices down, FRIDAY: Sposaitalia Collezioni, Milan (through June 23). dropping a seasonally adjusted and suits and separates de- McMillion said. 0.5 percent from the prior month creased 6 percent. Looking ahead, there is SATURDAY: Atlanta Women’s & Children’s Apparel and and falling 4.4 percent from a Women’s underwear, night- uncertainty over price trends Accessories Market (through June 24). year ago. wear, sportswear and accesso- as fuel costs continue to soar. COMING THIS WEEK Prices for all apparel, in- ries prices increased 0.4 percent Prices for all consumer goods cluding girls’, men’s and boys’, in May from the prior month, but and core prices both edged declined 0.3 percent compared dropped 2.3 percent compared higher in May, and the indus- with a month ago and 0.6 per- with last year. tries directly impacted by fuel TODAY ON WWD.COM cent from the prior year. “It’s fairly clear that re- are already reporting price Retail prices for all consumer tailers don’t have much pric- increases. Airline fares in- CHECK OUT BLOGS FROM WWD’S EDITORS AND goods increased in May, climb- ing power,” said Charles creased 3.2 percent in May, REPORTERS AT WWD B, INCLUDING: ing 0.6 percent from April and McMillion, president and chief which drove the public trans- ● Bridget Foley on fashion’s obsession with “early” seasons 4.2 percent from last year, led economist of MBG Information portation index up 2.3 per- by increased food and energy Services. “Everybody is run- cent. There is fear that price ● Robert Murphy on covering Yves Saint Laurent’s funeral costs. Core prices, excluding the ning into serious price resis- increases could creep into ● Venessa Lau on exploring WWD’s Saint Laurent archive volatile food and energy sectors, tance, so it is very diffi cult to other sectors down the road. ● Kathleen McLaughlin on China’s smiling blitz grew 0.2 percent from the previ- pass price increases along.” Airline prices can be seen as ● Ross Tucker on the fear factor in the denim market ous month and 2.3 percent ver- Consumers, squeezed alan early warning, said Kenneth sus last year. ready by higher energy and food Beauchemin, U.S. economist at ● Marc Karimzadeh on improving the CFDA awards The largest monthly drop prices, are not tolerant of higher Global Insight. ● Kristi Ellis on how trade plays into Obama vs. McCain in apparel was in the dress prices, he said. “Producers have thus far re- ● Andrea Nagel on Target’s new prestige beauty deal category, where prices fell 6.1 “There were a lot more dis- mained patient, observant of percent in May versus April. counts than normal [in May] competitive pressures, while http://wwdblogs.typepad.com They increased, however, com- — more discounted items and waiting for the tidal surge pared with last year, rising 1.9 steeper discounts on some in energy prices to recede,” percent. Women’s outerwear items,” said Malinda Harrell, Beauchemin said. “ It is becom- prices decreased 1.8 percent on an economist with the U.S. ing clearer, however, that the a month-to-month comparison Bureau of Labor Statistics, add- waters will stubbornly remain and tumbled 8.5 percent from ing that dresses in particular and cause more fi rms to throw last year. were heavily discounted. in the towel and raise prices in WWD B Girls’ apparel prices in- When companies report the coming months.” WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 16, 2008 3 WWD.COM

Various views Curator Pamela Golbin and Valentino. of the exhibition. PHOTO BY STEPHANE FEUGERE PHOTO BY The Refinement of Valentino on Display

By Miles Socha black and white, devoted to variations on line, volumes and then cut his teeth working for French couturiers and surface treatments, while the second fl oor portrays Jean Desses and Guy Laroche before starting his own PARIS — Some designers take years to define a signa- various decorative themes, including fl owers, feathers, collection. ture look: Valentino Garavani had his practically out of animal prints and fur. “He was already aware of this elitist clientele that fashion’s starting blocks. The clothes are displayed on long-necked silver man- had very specifi c needs,” Golbin said. “He always knew That’s one of the key messages of “Valentino: Themes nequins on a minimalist terrain of cement gray beads, a how to integrate the contemporary trends in fashion, and Variations,” an exhibition that opens here today set design by Patrick Kinmonth and Antonio Monfreda, but always staying with his own vocabulary, and I think and runs until Sept. 21 at Les Arts Decoratifs. The ex- who were behind Valentino’s 45th anniversary exhibi- that’s where the timelessness comes from. He’s exhibit features 225 high-fashion creations by the Roman tion last year in Rome. tremely interested in the now and the next.” couturier, who hung up his scissors last January. Claudia In an interview, the designer said the reality of re- But he did pass on a few major trends, notably grun- Schiffer, Charlotte Casiraghi, Georgina Brandolini, tirement has yet to really sink in, given immediate ge and minimalism. “I never liked this. It was to offend Natalia Vodianova and Alessandra Facchinetti are projects like the Arts Decoratifs showcase and the Matt a lady to dress like this,” he said. “Do you remember among those expected at the opening this evening. Tyrnauer documentary, now being readied for release the Academy Awards that year they all arrived looking “We’re in detox from fashion,” Valentino told cura- at the Venice Film Festival in August. like nuns? They were horribly criticized. The year after, tor Pamela Golbin when she asked him and longtime “I have the feeling that I’ve taken a little vacation they arrived with trains, with tiaras –— back at the top business partner Giancarlo Giammetti how they were and am waiting to do my next collection,” the designer of glamour. adjusting to retirement. In fact, he granted Golbin free said, Carla Bruni staring at him from a black-and-white “I loved to put new details, but I never destroyed the rein with an exhibition she describes as “a real analysis portrait on the wall opposite. “I’m perfectly all right. I’m proportions,” he continued. “I followed my ideas all the of his career from 1959 all the way through his last col- very relaxed and very happy.” time, and I pursued my collections with great joy. I did lection.” Golbin said Valentino, ever the perfectionist, trudged the maximum to please.” It’s the fi rst time the French fashion museum has de- through the display cases to ensure the right position- In tandem with the exhibition is a 300-page book, voted a solo exhibition to a living Italian designer, and ing for all the dresses, which include the one Jacqueline published in English, French, German, Italian and it highlights an approach to couture often distinct from Kennedy wore to wed Aristotle Onassis in 1968, pro- Spanish. the French in its colors, embellishment and technical pelling him to international stardom, and the ribbon- While the designer devotes energies to his forthcom- details like budellini, a painstaking process of rolling backed gown Julia Roberts wore to the 2001 Oscars, ig- ing foundation in Rome, and costume projects for opera fabric into tubes and applying them to tulle. niting the trend to vintage on the red carpet. and ballet, Valentino said he would steer clear of fash- “The French will really be surprised by the sophisti- “One thing I never was in all my career was a pre- ion weeks, including next month’s Paris couture, when cation and the refi nement of the designs he put out for tentious designer,” Valentino said. “When I look at my his successor Facchinetti will make her couture debut. almost 50 years,” Golbin said. “There’s a certain light- dresses, even though they were done over many de- “I leave them free, without being there, without ness that’s much more Italian: the way he mixes em- cades, they are all very wearable now, and I am very showing my face,” he said. broideries with feathers, the mix of colors.…I think the proud of this.” Asked if he’s formed any opinion on the house’s new Roman light has a lot to do with it.” That Valentino found his groove of “sophisticated direction, Valentino replied, “I’ve not seen so much.” Golbin said Valentino’s oeuvre melds Italian industry, elegance” almost from the start is no surprise, given But he asserted that the current brand stewards, the American sportswear and French couture. “He brought that he was in contact early in his career with royals private equity fi rm Permira, have plenty of archives and these together and refi ned them for an international de- and wives of shipping magnates from Greece and Egypt, documentation to guide them. sign style and business style,” she said. “It’s very labor- Golbin noted. “I am impatient, and I am worried because it is my intensive Italian couture.” The designer honed his skills in fashion illustration name,” he said. “I would love that the name goes on and The fi rst fl oor of the exhibition is graphic, mostly in at the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode as an 18-year-old, on, to be top quality.” 4 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 16, 2008

Lanvin

Leisure Class CHEZ LANVIN, IT’S HAWAII MEETS the Hamptons. Well, sort of. Alber Elbaz described his cruise collection as a Frenchifi ed take on American sportswear, with plenty of that South Fork easy allure. “But twisted Hamptons,” he noted while tucking into a bowl of sorbet to the helium strains of Dolly Parton at his Paris studio on Saturday. Shapes are light and languid, not to mention a bit Thirties with an emphasis on a new elongated silhouette for the house. Case in point: his polkadot silk gazar column gown worthy of a latter- day siren à la Jean Harlow. Add to that the designer’s cheekily embroidered T-shirt matched with a formal fl oor-length silk skirt and his “jogging suit for the woman who doesn’t jog” cut in sexy black silk and you get the rest of the season’s message: carefree glamour. But, oh, the accessories: it’s “Aloha, Alber” with ex- otic and fl amboyant — or, Lanvin in his words, “scream- Lanvin ing” — embellishments spicing up the collection. Especially notable are his versions of a luxury lei: glitzy garlands made from iridescent fl owers strung on fake pearl necklaces.

Lanvin PHOTOS BY DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTOS BY WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 16, 2008 5 WWD.COM

Giambattista Giambattista Valli Valli Fashion Scoops FASHION’S HONOR ROLL: Anna Wintour has been named an OBE, or Ofﬁ cer of the Civil Division of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire, in England’s Queen’s birthday honors list. Wintour received the award, as part of the diplomatic service and overseas list, for services to British journalism and British fashion in the U.S. Wintour, editor in chief of Vogue, is the second British-born, U.S.- based magazine editor to be honored by the system this year, after Glenda Bailey, editor in chief of Harper’s Bazaar, picked up an OBE last week. A few other British fashion names were honored in this year’s list, which was published Saturday. Louise Wilson, the course director of Central Saint Martin’s College of Art and Design’s renowned master’s degree in fashion, was named an OBE for services to education and to the fashion industry, while London-based designer Wale Adeyemi was named an MBE, or Member of the Civil Division of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire, for services to the fashion industry. Meanwhile, architect Richard Rogers was made a companion of honor, an award that recognizes a preeminent and sustained contribution in the arts, science, medicine or government, for public service and services to architecture.

RODEO HONORS BLAHNIK: Manolo Blahnik will be the 12th Rodeo Drive Walk of Style honoree. The footwear designer will be honored with a permanent plaque on the famed shopping street on Sept. 25. The award, created in 2003 by the Rodeo Drive Committee and the City of Beverly Hills, has been given to James Galanos, Donatella Versace, Herb Ritts, Mario Testino, Tom Ford and Giorgio Armani, among others.

LOPEZ EXITS ST. JOHN: Maria D. Lopez, St. John’s vice president of design for over 10 years, left the company Friday after giving lengthy notice. Word has it Lopez has wanted to start her own line for some time and has found a backer. St. John had no comment on Lopez’s resignation.

SECRET RENDEZVOUS: She’s spotted wearing the bags and shoes all over town, but is Charlize Theron auditioning for a starring role in the Roger Vivier brand? In Paris for tonight’s premiere of “Hancock,” Theron was said to have requested a private meeting with Bruno Frisoni on Sunday evening at the George V. He and Hervé Van der Straeten are also accompanying her to tonight’s screening, but no word on whose shoes will.

WILLKOMMEN, RAF: If Thursday’s party for the new Jil Sander boutique in Manhattan felt a lot like a gallery soiree, then so be it. Jil Sander’s creative director Raf Simons makes no secret of his admiration of the arts, and he collaborated with artist Germaine Kruip on a striking installation of rotating mirrored panels for the store. On the second ﬂ oor of the store, which is at the corner of Howard and Crosby Streets, a gaggle of models in looks from the spring collection brightened the scene, which included the likes of Maria Raf Simons and Cornejo and Yvonne Force Villareal. Post-party, Germaine Kruip a group of Simons’ friends and editors headed over to Kurt Gutenbrunner’s eatery Wallsé for some white asparagus and Austrian-style lamb chops. Narciso Rodriguez had ﬂ own in from East Hampton that afternoon. “I haven’t met Raf, but I am a big fan,” said Rodriguez before Simons’ arrival. After the dinner, Simons couldn’t contain his admiration for Gotham, and particularly his favorite neighborhood, Chelsea. “I love New York, and Chelsea for its galleries. And I love Crosby Street.”

THE BRITS HAVE THEIR STANDARDS: Audrey Hepburn’s Eliza Doolittle may have spoken out of turn during her ﬁ ctional visit to England’s famous

Royal Ascot race meeting, but at least she dressed STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY the part. Now, in a bid to rid the Royal Enclosure Models Alana Zimmer at the real-life Ascot of fashion blunders this and Kori Richardson in season, the racecourse has been forced to lay out a Jil Sander. dress code that’s stricter than ever. The race meeting, which runs from June 17 to 21, has stipulated that women with passes to the Royal Enclosure, where England’s Royal Family watch the races and wander, should refrain from wearing dresses and tops that are “off the shoulder, halter neck, [with] spaghetti straps and dresses with a strap of less than one inch.” The request has been issued by Queen Elizabeth’s representative at Royal Ascot, the Duke of Devonshire, who also suggests that “only formal day dress with a hat or

PHOTOS BY KHEPRI STUDIO PHOTOS BY substantial fascinator [headdress] will be acceptable.” If visitors fail to comply, they will be asked to leave the enclosure — if they even get past the eagle-eyed stewards at the gate. The hard-line rules come as guests in recent years have taken to wearing thigh-skimming skirts and strapless tops, with subtle hair ornaments rather than hats or head-dresses — all in a desperate attempt to be snapped by the hordes of paparazzi outside the gates and Dress Developments have their pictures end up in one of Britain’s tabloids. Royal Ascot’s Web site even publishes a page of images to illustrate the dos and don’ts of the dress code. “It’s all about effortless elegance,” says Giambattista Valli of his resort While some might snipe the famed race meeting is a bit behind the collection. To wit, he focuses on his specialty — little dresses — this fashion times, its organizers don’t agree. “Royal Ascot is a place where new fashions are showcased…however, the Royal Meeting remains time topped with bolero jackets and fur shrugs. He’s also showing a place for formal daywear,” said Charles Barnett, chief executive of shrunken coats and dresses in eyelet cotton detailed with organdy Ascot. “We know how important it is to protect the integrity of the ribbons. On the prints side, inspired by the work of Monet, he’s doing Royal Enclosure dress code and all the traditions that make Royal Ascot unique.” sweaters with dreamy hand-painted motifs for the ﬁ rst time. 6 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 16, 2008 WWD.COM

Just Piazza Cavalli Sempione

Jill Stuart

Nanette Floral Arrangements Lepore Resort is in full bloom as designers play with feminine garden prints. Roberto Cavalli says he “channeled the elegance and style of Sixties American aristocrats vacationing in European hot spots such as Rome, Saint-Tropez and the British countryside,” which translates into sexy, vibrant dresses for Just Cavalli. Meanwhile, Nathalie Gervais, the designer behind Piazza Sempione, uses an engineered ﬂ oral print for her crisp tunics. Jill Stuart, for her part, goes for romance with a dramatic, ﬂ oor-sweeping dress in a watercolor-painting motif. “I thought of a girl in the summer strolling in an English garden, promenading by the Seine or eating gelato in Florence,” she says. Finally, Nanette Lepore is inspired by the New Year’s colorful festivities at the Rockhouse resort in Jamaica, which

brings out a fl ock of bright, fl oral-print party dresses. ERICKSEN AND KHEPRI STUDIO KYLE CENTENO, TALAYA ANTONOV, PASHA PHOTOS BY WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 16, 2008 7 WWD.COM Gould on Bloomingdale’s DNA Madrid Comes to N.Y. s part of a plan to increase ties to the By David Moin Michael Gould AAmerican market, the Council of Fashion Designers of Spain showed off some talent with loomingdale’s has been driving hard to distinguish “MadridFashionNewYork,” an exhibition in SoHo Bitself from the department store pack. Thursday night. While the strategy has had more ups than downs, Carolina Herrera was among the guests on hand to the retailer continues to elevate its appeal and offer- support the efforts of 11 Spanish designers including ings, expand to new locations and improve its top and Agatha Ruiz de la Prada, Ailanto, Miguel Palacio and bottom lines. And last month, its strategy received Roberto Torreta. Having held its fi rst initiative last fall an industry seal of approval. Bloomingdale’s was at the Queen Sofi a Spanish Institute in New York, the named “Department Store of the Year” at the Global latest event was planned to help create a solid plat- Department Store Summit, a conference in London form for the promotion of Spanish design in the U.S. where 53 chief executive offi cers of major department The exhibition was held at The Trump Group’s of- stores were asked to vote for the best in the sector in fi ces. Many of the new Trump SoHo hotel’s investors 2008 based on which one had an enviable profi le, dif- are Spanish, according to a CFDS spokeswoman. ferentiated positioning, innovative product and ser- Modesto Lomba, who heads up the CFDS, ex- vice strategies and strong fi nancial performance. plained the impetus for the exhibition: “Defi nitely, The $2.6 billion chain has 33 locations selling ap- New York is the capital of fashion in the world today.” parel and home merchandise, three that just sell The Venezuelan-born Herrera is at ease in Spain. home, and one furniture clearance unit. Aside from having a factory for her CH Carolina Recently, the fi rst Arizona location in Phoenix was Herrera collection and several stores for the brand announced, Texas and the Pacifi c Northwest are on there, her daughter Carolina lives there and is married the radar and overseas ambitions are growing, with to a Spanish bullfi ghter. “Really the only way to see the fi rst site expected to be Dubai. them is to have a show here. That way you can see every In an interview last week, Michael Gould, designer and what they do,” the designer said. “This Bloomingdale’s chairman and ceo, said it was par- was the fi rst idea for the beginning ticularly gratifying to be recognized by a worldwide so people know they exist.” peer group, and discussed what Bloomingdale’s DNA She was equally enthusias- is about and the future for the brand. tic about pulling together an American effort. “We should or- WWD: What makes the Bloomingdale’s profile so differ- ganize ourselves or any American ent from other department stores? designer who wants to show in Michael Gould: Over the course of the last six years we Europe. They should do the same have redirected our brand strategy to really move up- thing with us.” scale, versus playing in the department store arena. When Natasha De Santis, It’s really about creating a Bloomingdale’s that’s the spokeswoman for the CFDS, branded, with a very distinct impression. When you From a survey of 20,000 of our customers, we came referred to Herrera as being a look at what we have done, you have to see what hap- away with two epiphanies. First, that shoppers don’t queen in Spain, the designer pened in SoHo [where Bloomingdale’s four years ago want us to compete in both the upscale and department laughed and shook her head. “You opened a 79,000-square-foot unit specializing in con- store arena [with similar merchandise that competed have a very good queen in Spain. temporary merchandise]. This was the first time in with Neiman’s lower price points and Macy’s highest]. Queen Sofi a — the real one.” my mind a department store really created a different At the time, 44 percent of our merchandise we defi ned Executives from the CFDS model. Instead of the usual 170,000-square-foot or even as exclusive or limited distribution. In three years, we met with Council of Fashion 120,000-square-foot box, we did something that was thought it could move to 55 percent. It’s currently at 72 Designers of America president unique. I always remember what Eugenia Ulasewicz, the percent, in fi ve years. We have almost doubled the aver- Diane von Furstenberg and ex- president of Burberry in the U.S., said to me. She said age unit sale over the course of six years. The second ecutive director Steven Kolb last in SoHo you have defined yourself more by what brands epiphany is that people expected our service levels to be week to discuss other prospects. are not in the store, rather than who was in the store. We at parity to Neiman’s and Saks, but they didn’t expect us From the start of her presidency, really proved that we could assort differently and truly to be as good as Nordstrom. von Furstenberg has pledged to Carolina Herrera define our customer differently. make American designers more WWD: Can your service ever be as good as Nordstrom’s? of a global force. She herself is staging a runway show WWD: What were some of the brands that got left out? M.G.: Yes. It’s a goal. Nothing happens overnight. They Wednesday in Florence. The prospect of having some M.G.: Three of our largest. There’s no Ellen Tracy. We felt are terrific. They have created a mind-set and a percep- Spanish designers stage a group runway show in New it did not fit the profile of younger contemporary custom- tion. The thing that impresses me about Nordstrom and York was among the ideas discussed between the two ers we saw in SoHo, although we feel SoHo appeals to its service is the consistency. We have a lot of instances governing groups. Helping American designers who other customers too. Ralph Lauren did not open in that of great service, but they are consistently at a very high are interested in selling and marketing their brands store. We didn’t think it was appropriate. We had long level. We are working on it, and running really fast. in Spain is another possibility, but the talks are con- conversations with them. We did not open with Estée ceptual at this stage, said Kolb, who plans to sit down Lauder. We felt that we wanted to do certain things in WWD: Can the SoHo scaled-down Bloomingdale’s be rep- with the Spanish contingency this summer. our beauty department. We [took] a very pointed view. licated? But he was quick to emphasize the initiative is a M.G.: I think it can. It hasn’t been yet, but it’s one of the global one. While in Florence for next week’s Pitti WWD: How has the store performed? many things we are looking at. If we can find appropriate Uomo, Kolb said he will meet with executives about M.G.: Year-to-date business is just phenomenal. places, the success there can absolutely be replicated. “cementing” something with the CFDA. He also recently met with the British Fashion WWD: Doesn’t the pace of business have a lot do with New WWD: What’s the plan for renovating the main floor of the Council’s chairman Harold Tillman. Setting up ex- York’s strong tourist trade? flagship? change programs between British and American stu- M.G.: Forty to 50 percent of that store is tourism, uptown M.G.: There will be a lot of innovation. We’ll show product dents is a possibility, Kolb said. [at the 59th Street flagship] it’s less. Probably 25 or 30. differently. We will have some very expanded businesses — Rosemary Feitelberg But the significance is we took [elements of] SoHo and and a lot of new brands coming in. We’ll make walking went to San Francisco with it. Downtown San Francisco that floor much easier. No resource will be behind any A Spanish design. did not need another store. But we came in, defined other resource. Just about every one will be on an aisle. ourselves again and then we went to South Coast Plaza This will be our single biggest renovation. [Costa Mesa, Calif.]. WWD: You have also been adding restaurants to your WWD: Describe the DNA. stores, such as Charlie Palmer in South Coast Plaza. M.G.: We have really tried to brand ourselves and who we M.G.: It’s the first time there’s a high-class celebrity PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY are, and play in the upscale arena and still try to be dif- chef in a store. The whole concept is something unique. ferentiated. It’s a different DNA than the other outstand- We believe food has to play a bigger role in our stores. ing upscale stores. We are not going to have the amount Someone who shops in one of our restaurants, spends of designers that Neiman Marcus has. We are composed two or three times as much. It’s a more loyal customer. of a strong contemporary business. I do believe my people have made the biggest beachhead in contemporary. WWD: Bloomingdale’s had a tough first quarter, though There’s also a different way of approaching our events, a not as tough as Macy’s and better than most. How has the different way that we approach cosmetics. The branding store been performing over the longer term? is also about taking the merchandise out of the aisles, M.G.: Our performance since 2002 has been spectacu- putting more into the store design and making stores less lar. We are performing [on par] with Neiman’s and cluttered. We reduced our signing by over 80 percent. In Nordstrom. Since 2001, actually, every year has been a the old days, you would have Ellen Tracy on all three major improvement over the year before. walls [of the shop]. On every T-stand or four-way, the name would be there too. We’ve spent tens of millions on WWD: Where will you open stores next? services, seating areas, restrooms. M.G.: I think there are a lot of opportunities for In intimate apparel on 59th Street we have a con- Bloomingdale’s around the country. SoHo has proven cierge service, telephones in the fi tting rooms [to contact that you can run stores at different sizes in different the sales help]. We are trying to take service to a whole markets with a sense of creativity. new level. With all the diffi culties in bridge, we recon- ceptualized the fl oor, mixing designer in. There’s Ralph WWD: When will you announce that you are opening in Lauren Black, Missoni, Tory Burch. It’s another example Dubai? of thinking out of the box. M.G.: We don’t speculate on rumors. 8 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 16, 2008 WWD.COM Licensing Report From Barbie to Pepsi: The Next Generation of Deals By Julee Kaplan NEW YORK — More than 6,000 brands were showcased at the annual Licensing International Expo, which is moving to Las Vegas next year, and the economic slowdown didn’t appear to limit the appetite for deals. From Barbie jewelry and My Little Pony lingerie (for adults) to Pepsi jeans and Icee accessories, brands presented their licensing possibilities to more than 25,000 visitors from 82 countries. The show, which is in its 28th year and was held from June 10 to 12 at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center, is moving to the Mandalay Bay Resort. Las Vegas “attracts millions of international visitors each year, most particularly from the U.K. and France,” said Advanstar Communications Inc.’s executive vice president, Georgiann DeCenzo, who organized the show. “Our new home at Mandalay Bay Convention Center will enable us to expand our show fl oor into sports and lifestyle categories such as fashion, home and celebrity licensing. Our exhibitors will realize substantial cost sav- ings in doing business in Las Vegas.” On the licensing front, Barbie, the iconic fashion doll, will mark her 50th birthday on March 9, 2009, and Mattel is preparing to launch a slew of products leading up to the milestone. Richard Dickson, senior vice president of marketing, media and entertainment worldwide at Mattel Brands, declined to re- veal all the new products, but highlighted some of what 2009 will bring — from a Barbie MP3 player , which doubles as a necklace, to a retro line of screened T-shirts and a limited edition accessories collection, called Barbie BCause, made from fabric scraps From left: Marvel’s Doop character on a proposed sleepwear piece; a look from Fisher Price’s T-shirt line with Mighty found at the doll factories. Fine; Pepsi’s junior line will hit stores for back-to-school. Below: A Barbie Bcause backpack. “We just launched the MP3 players in [South] Korea and are working on bringing them to the U.S.,” Dickson said, showing a hot pink player that Mattel plans to launch a line of retro-printed Hot Wheels T-shirts for juniors, bring- fl ips open in a compactlike manner, complete with a mirror. “We’ve literally sold more ing that brand to women for the fi rst time. of these than we have dolls, so that’s huge for us.” Fisher-Price is marking 77 years in business with a partnership with Mighty Fine There also will be a line of girls’ and boys’ golf equipment and apparel from Barbie clothing to bring kitschy graphic T-shirts to girls and boys. The T-shirts, in a range of and Hot Wheels, which will celebrate its 40th year in 2009, as well as Barbie garden- colors from green and blue to pink and orange, show off some of Fisher Price’s retro ing tools. Also on tap is costume jewelry from Trina Tarantino and real diamond jew- graphics, with sayings like “Why You Buggin’?” and “Material Girl.” elry from Alan Friedman, which is now sold exclusively in Friedman’s Beverly Hills Meanwhile, at the Joester Loria Group, a licensing and marketing fi rm based here, boutique but will roll out to other retailers next year. That line ranges from $250 to Beth Roberts, international brand manager, was preparing to unveil a full Pepsi $25,000 at retail. branded junior sportswear line, ready for retail this summer. The collection, which wholesales from $7 for a T-shirt to $60 for a coat, is produced in partnership with the Assis Group. It incorporates vintage and modern graphics from Pepsi’s 109-year-old archives on everything from T-shirts and jeans to activewear and accessories. This collection will add to the brand’s T-shirt line produced by Junk Food, which is sold at retailers nationwide. “The line pays attention to Pepsi’s heritage, but in a modern way for a contemporary look,” Roberts said. Also launching in late summer will be a Pepsi T-shirt collection at Steve & Barry’s stores. That line, for men, women and kids, will retail from $9.98 to $19.98 and will be available at Steve & Barry’s 267 stores nationwide. “We really like how Steve & Barry’s will allow us to do in-store promotions and we can generate people into their stores with marketing,” said Joanne Loria, executive vice president and chief operating offi cer at Joester Loria Group. Marvel Entertainment Inc., which will celebrate 70 years of comic book characters next year, has dug into its archives to make more characters available for possible licensing deals. With its huge list of 5,001 characters, Susan Fields, vice president of product merchandising at Marvel, said she wasn’t at a loss when it came to variety. “There are so many characters in so many different forms, so if Target wanted to put the Incredible Hulk on a T-shirt and so did Kitson, we can cater to both of these stores — the opportunities are endless,” she said. Fields said she hopes to pick up partnerships in a series of apparel segments from women’s, men’s and children’s wear to accessories and sleepwear. To gear the characters to a higher-end audi- ence, the company has developed a new Marvel Vintage logo that can go on packaging. And, she said, with all of the Marvel characters who will soon be on the big screen — the Incredible Hulk came out last Friday, Iron Man and Wolverine will hit next May, Punisher in December — the appeal of partnering these characters with products is enhanced. “Our extensive library is our biggest asset,” Fields said. “And we have a huge creative team at our fi ngertips…ready to work with our future partners.” In addition to its apparel and accessories business in the U.S., junior brand Pink Cookie sells bedding, bath, footwear, hosiery, intimates and sleepwear in France. Howard Levy, chief of staff, said he chose to showcase the brand at the show in hopes of signing even more categories in areas like denim, swimwear and eyewear. “We are also hoping to expand even more internationally,” he said.

10 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 16, 2008 WWD.COM Innerwear Report CW-X Sports Bras Take Quirky Road By Karyn Monget advertising agency with an all-female creative team that wear-tested the CW-X sports bras to come up with ideas. he Wacoal Sports Science Corp. subsidiary of Wacoal Titled “The Apology Letter,” the ad focuses on a female TJapan is counting on creative marketing and adver- runner reading to men and women who usually stare tising to bolster its sports bra business in the U.S. at her bouncing breasts. She tells the gawkers they will Launched in the U.S. market in 2002, the maker of “no longer have a free show due to her new extra sup- CW-X performance apparel for men port CW-X bra,” Wilson said. and women introduced a line of high- Interactive features include infor- tech CW-X sports bras in 2005, which John L.A. mational animations on product ben- now accounts for 34 percent of overall Wilson efi ts, while a click will set off oral de- wholesale revenues, said John L.A. scriptions. The main character says, Wilson, president and chief operat- “My new CW-X Sport Support Bra ing offi cer of Wacoal Sports Science. keeps my breasts so fi rmly and com- He would not give total annual sales fortably supported that now I can run ANTONOV PASHA WILSON AND LINEUP PHOTOS BY volume but noted sales have in- without my boobs bouncing all over creased 50 percent annually and the the place. Which is great for me, but fi rm was ahead 36 percent as of April. not so good for certain other people… The company’s total yearly wholesale like male runners passing me in the sales are more than $20 million, ac- other direction, construction workers cording to industry estimates. on 14th Street, the hot dog vendor on The total annual wholesale sport- 4th Street and that lady who always ing goods market in the U.S. is $70 stares at me in the women’s locker billion, of which $30 billion is gener- room.” Voice-overs include, “Oh! I ated by active apparel, according to hate that bra,” from characters such the Sporting Goods Manufacturing as a construction worker. Association. About $1.2 billion in “The approach is a real departure wholesale revenues is comprised of for us, but we wanted to be a little performancewear, and a sizeable part edgy with our message that exces- includes sports bras and tops. sively bouncing breasts are bad for An unorthodox viral ad campaign a woman’s comfort and physiology, initiated in May on runnersworld.com is getting atten- not to mention her psyche,” said Wilson, noting that tion for the fi rm’s CW-X sports bras. Plans are to contin- parent company Wacoal is familiar with support and ue the campaign on Web sites catering to active sports comfort since it sells 35 million bras a year. “The ads enthusiasts, as well as continuously running a whim- target athletic women seeking technologically advanced sical ad on the cw-x.com site, Wilson said. He added sports gear that enhances performance and helps them A lineup of CW-X Sport Support Bras. that since the company does not have megabucks for ad achieve their goals.” campaigns, it’s also combining the viral campaign with Wacoal has the patent for CW-X, which applies the search engines, as well as print ads in fi tness magazines principles of kinesiology — the study of human move- nology built into each cup. We can make the cups more for women such as Women’s Health, Runner’s World ment — in a line of athletic apparel that functions in supportive through different layering techniques as you and Shape. concert with the human body, Wilson said. go up in cup sizes.” The interactive viral ad was created by the Walrus “The holy grail for sports bras is for a woman to fi nd The sports bra collection, which is rendered in a sports bra that supports her well CoolMax, Lycra spandex, polyester and polyurethane but is very comfortable,” he said. mesh web, and Healtha, which has wicking applications, “Sports bras are a natural progres- features seven styles and is sized 32A to 40DD. Colors sion for CW-X, conditioning wear with include rose pink, periwinkle, white, black and black the X symbol which stands for infi n- with pink or turquoise trim. Retail prices are $40 to $65 ity. In performance wear, Wacoal’s for sports bras, and coordinating running tights are $65 Conditioning Web technology supports to $115. joints and muscles to bolster perfor- So far, total distribution is 1,200 specialty sporting mance, minimize fatigue and help goods stores in Canada, Mexico, Australia, New Zealand, prevent injury. Through encapsula- the U.K., including 950 doors in the U.S., said Wilson, tion in our webbing system, we have who has been in the sports apparel industry for two-plus built targeted compression technology decades, serving in positions such as president of Sara into each [bra] cup separately, so it Lee Corp.’s Duofold business, now part of Hanesbrands provides a soft support system. There Inc., international director for L.A. Gear, and a market- are fi ve points of inner webbing tech- ing director at Reebok. Colombia’s Ea Lingerie Cultivates U.S. Market MIAMI — Ea Lingerie is eyeing gold in the U.S. market. Looks at Ea Lingerie’s contemporary interior. Launched in 2004, the Colombian manufacturer of lingerie and swimwear that also has a burgeoning activewear and footwear business has expanded to 30 freestanding stores and 300 wholesale accounts throughout Latin America, Europe and Asia. Last month, the company’s fi rst U.S. boutique opened in Miami’s Mary Brickell Village, an upscale shopping center that caters to Latin American brands and shoppers. Showrooms have popped up in New York, Los Angeles, Dallas and Miami, with hopes of capturing 500 U.S. wholesale accounts by year’s end, said chief operating offi cer Steve Bernstein. “Our goal is to build the brand and validate since styles vary for different markets. Larger its quality and delivery capabilities through sizes will be introduced. better department stores and boutiques over Meanwhile, working with international mer- the next 12 to 18 months before opening more chandise, Miami’s location stocks everything company-owned stores or franchises,” said from everyday items to sexy looks. A brown Bernstein. and white polkadot, foam-cup bra and thong The Miami venture is a partnership with panty set with shirred straps and pastel lace Steven Waldman, chief executive offi cer of Ea appliqués retail for $90 and $37, respectively. Lingerie’s recently established U.S. division. Indicative of the neutral, contemporary The same style in teal with Swarovski crystal embellishment sells for $64 and $35. decor of the fi rm’s stores worldwide, the Miami unit’s leather benches, marble fl oors More elaborate sets are a pinstriped teddy with pink lace and feather trim for $106. and minimal displays with glass and silver fi nishes maximize its 850 square feet. Two Bernstein said fabrics are sourced from Europe and crystals are authentic, so pric- small dressing rooms with frosted glass doors could fi t inside a third of the space for es are kept reasonable through long-term relationships with suppliers. Estimating VIPs that has an enclosed seating area, a Champagne-fi lled mini refrigerator and two production totals of about 28 groups annually for lingerie and 20 for swimwear, he entrances for quicker service. said newness and limited quantities are key strategies. Bernstein said the U.S. collection will exhibit separately from the main line “We’re not about mass numbers and even signature basics are offered in new col- during trade shows, including the Salon International de la Lingerie in Paris and ors every season,” said Bernstein. ColombiaModa in Medellin, Colombia, and the SwimShow in Miami Beach, partly — Rebecca Kleinman WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 16, 2008 11 WWD.COM

shoot that had Moss on tambourine and the son of photographers Ines van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin MEMO PAD on drums. “I don’t like to pick models from nowhere: They have to suit the brand,” the designer noted. To wit: the shoot had a “family atmosphere,” McCartney said, not to mention a pioneering one. “It was nice shooting outside: seeing the girls tottering on their heels in the grass and over the rough terrain.” The ads break in September fashion titles. Meanwhile, McCartney has been ﬂ exing her linguistic muscles, voicing an acceptance speech in Catalan after being named Designer of the Year at the annual Elle Style Awards in Barcelona last Thursday. — M.S.

NEW HIRES: Megan Campbell Dean has been named as fashion features editor at In Style. She replaces George Epaminondas, who is going to work on features. For the past ﬁ ve years, Dean has served as Elle’s senior editor, An image from Stella McCartney’s campaign. beauty and ﬁ tness. Over at instyle.com, Joe Berean has been tapped as fashion director. In this new role, her Los Angeles-based model buddy, Frankie Ryder. “It Berean will oversee all fashion coverage for the site. He was really good fun. They’d never worked together,” joins from elle.com/ellegirl.com, where he was fashion McCartney said, describing a “band moment” on the director. — A.W. Charlotte Gainsbourg in Balenciaga’s fall campaign.

NEW SOPHISTICATE: Shortly after christening the Balenciaga fl agship in Los Angeles last April, designer Nicolas Ghesquière barred shoppers from it for two days. But he had a “beautiful” reason. Ghesquière used the new 5,000-square-foot store on Melrose Avenue in West Hollywood as the location for the French brand’s fall-winter campaign shoot, featuring actress Charlotte Gainsbourg. The ads break in the August issue of British Vogue, followed by other fashion titles. “For me, she is one of the most inspiring girls in the world,” Ghesquière enthused. “She’s really representative of what France is today. She was always so modern in her choices and her way of being. She’s so iconic for me.” Still, Ghesquière chose to portray his friend of 10 years in line with his hyper-chic and “more mature” fall-winter collection. That meant a sleek chignon, strong makeup courtesy of Pat McGrath and arch couture poses — a contrast to the bohemian, “undone” style Gainsbourg has portrayed in other campaigns and in countless editorials. “It was fun to play with her in a very sophisticated way,” Ghesquière said, allowing that some viewers may not immediately recognize the star of such fi lms as “21 Grams” and “I’m Not Here.” The daughter of French music deities Serge Gainsbourg and Jane Birkin, Gainsbourg has also recorded several albums. David Simms shot the campaign, with the Los Angeles light rebounding off the boutique’s gleaming marble fl oors and etched metal walls. Gainsbourg follows actress Jennifer Connelly in the Balenciaga spots, and marks a turn towards personalities at a time when many European brands are going back to using supermodels. Ghesquière said he likes to work with fi lm stars. “They are used to playing characters and go deeper into the image,” he said. “There’s defi nitely a celebrity effect when you shoot an actress. There’s a real frisson.” — Miles Socha

BAND ON THE RUN: Stella McCartney had intended to shoot her fall- winter campaign in Scotland — until one of the models suggested they could use her country house in Gloucestershire, England. Did we mention the model was one Kate Moss? The campaign reunites Moss with 12 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 16, 2008 WWD.COM Accessories Report Olsens Expand Wardrobe With Jewelry

By Caroline Tell Mary-Kate and “They put together this video of him and Ashley Olsen I was so moved,” Ashley said. “He is so tal- ary-Kate and Ashley Olsen soon might ented and we thought, how great would it Mnot be wearing anyone but themselves. be to one day do a collaboration with him. The diminutive Olsen twins have cre- We were also thinking about what would ated a fashion jewelry collection through be a great next collection to introduce for a licensing partnership with Robert Lee Elizabeth and James that would be appro- Morris under the brand Elizabeth priate, and jewelry was the fi rst thing that and James, their contempo- came to mind. So we called Robert right rary apparel label that is away and he said, ‘Of course.’” sold in more than 250 Hitting stores in September, Robert Lee doors globally. Morris for Elizabeth and James consists of Given their well- 80-plus styles, including thick metal cuffs and known propensity for rings, earrings and necklaces accented with partying and being pho- turquoise beading, crosses and daggers. The tographed by the pa- collection is meant to be mixed and matched parazzi, the Olsens could and retails from $65 to $700. turn out to be one of the “We liked the idea of having playful ele- best self-promoters in the ments along with timeless and ageless piec- fashion game. With one pho- Robert Lee es,” Ashley said. “The symbols are attach- tograph, they have been able Morris able and you can take the jewelry and make to catapult a no-name hand- it your own. There are solid silver and gold bag into must-have status, or pieces to wear forever and comfort pieces send groups of women rushing to fi nd that that you’ll put on and wear everywhere.” perfect platform boot. While some of their As for Morris, whose career creating wardrobe choices have been derided — from architectural jewelry for everyone from the blanketed hobo shrouds to their Goth, vampy ensem- Calvin Klein and Donna Karan to Karl Lagerfeld has bles — like it or not, the 22-year-old twins are fi xtures in spanned 40 years, he said, “There was this synthesis of fashion front rows from Paris to New York, despite some what they both wanted and what we all felt was a great of their personal problems. representation of their iconic image and my iconic “We’ve always done our own thing and sometimes image. So then we had design development meetings in people appreciate it or they don’t, or it’s shocking or my studio and it just got more and more exciting. They it’s not,” said Ashley, who the night before being inter- were very involved in every aspect of the collection, viewed appeared in New York at the Council of Fashion which was very gratifying. It wasn’t just me doing some-

Designers of America Fashion Awards draped in an over- MITRA ROBERT JEWELRY PHOTOS BY thing and them accepting it. It was real teamwork.” size black Calvin Klein Collection suit. “We don’t follow Mary-Kate said, “Going to Robert’s studio was like the trends of other people. We’ve never had stylists, we being at a museum and a playroom to play dress up. do our own thing. So when you fi nd individuals like that, When we fi rst went there, it was hard to have a straight especially in the fashion industry, people pay attention. conversation. We’d go in and put on couture pieces like Whether they agree with it or not is a different story.” headdresses or helmets he used for a fashion show. He The Olsens are expanding their design activities, had all of these masks that were amazing and so inspir- which shouldn’t be a surprise since the two already have ing for our collection.” a signifi cant merchandising and branding business that, The collection will make its debut at Intermix stores in the past, has been estimated at about $1 billion. Along nationwide, as well as at Holt Renfrew in Canada and with Dualstar Entertainment Group, which has managed Asia’s Lane Crawford and On Pedder. And while some their brand for 17 years, they’ve gone from selling DVDs industry observers remain skeptical, Morris said retail- at Wal-Mart to $600 skirts at Barneys New York from ers were enthusiastic, given the Olsens’ “credibility in their new high-end ready-to-wear label, the Row. the fashion industry.” “We both have a love for accessories and they’ve al- In true Olsen style, bags and shoes could soon follow. ways been important to us from Day One,” Mary-Kate “We started doing this kind of work when we were said. “They can help make an outfi t or make you feel dif- 12,” Ashley said. “We really were — for the tween mar- ferent. Maybe a ring brings you good luck, or you got it as ket — the fi rst to bring licensing and to create a brand. a present and it means so much to you. It’s a feeling that There are so many opportunities out there, but it’s im- you get when you put on something that is special.” portant that whatever the lines may be, there’s qual- The twins were attracted to Morris at last year’s CFDA ity to them. We have complete control over our qual- Fashion Awards when the designer received the Geoffrey Clockwise from top left: rings, a cuff and earrings by Robert Lee ity, and licensing is about having the right partner and Beene Lifetime Achievement Award. Morris for Elizabeth and James. trusting each other.”

on the Bag Borrow or Steal Web site and a at the end of June. Spurred by the strong performance of the free booth at the MAGIC Accessories Show winter collection, Prada updated the offerings for spring by FINDINGS in Las Vegas. In addition, American brand outfi tting the little bears as sportsmen, including tennis and Leiber will be honored with the Iconoclast baseball players, a boxer and a swimmer, which retail for 120 Award for being a leader in luxury euros, or $184 at current exchange rates. The AND THE AWARD GOES TO: Henri Bendel accessories design. As an homage, Tricks line also includes white teddy-printed feted contestants in the second annual Bendel’s created a Judith Leiber A key ring from T-shirts and canvas bags in primary brights with Independent Handbag Designer Awards, for Henri Bendel limited edition Prada’s Tricks applications of furry bears. whose bags are displayed in the retailer’s The Judith Leiber for Henri Bendel bag. “Roll” bag in dark chocolate Collection. Fifth Avenue windows. brown that retails for $1,995. DAMIANI APPOINTMENT: Italian jewelry fi rm Up for top prizes in categories such as Best Student Made Damiani has named Antonio Pavan as president Bag, Best Green Handbag and Best Handbag in Overall Style RARE STONES: Dolce & Gabbana is glamming it up and chief executive offi cer of Damiani USA. and Design, the honorees will be cited Wednesday during the for summer with a new limited edition sunglasses Pavan, who is responsible for the company’s awards gala at the New York Historical Society. collection. Available in white or black, the three frame dealings in North and South America, was “These 20 designers, whether they are established or styles feature 112 Swarovski crystals decorating the chief operating offi cer of footwear fi rm Skins. emerging, share a common passion, commitment and creativity temple in fl oral formations with semiprecious stones Before that he was executive vice president of to make a unique handbag while being role models for such as turquoise and coral. The sunglasses will hit Ilori Geox USA and housewares fi rm Alessi USA, entrepreneurship and small business,” said Emily Blumenthal, stores this month, as well as high-end specialty stores and overseeing U.S. operations. founder of the Independent Handbag Designer Awards and Dolce & Gabbana stores by the end of next month. The “We believe that [Pavan’s] impressive international Handbag Designer 101, an organization devoted to helping price for the eyewear is $960. background and extensive American experience will be independents start their lines. a great contribution to the growth and success of our company,” Finalists are competing for prizes, such as an BAG OF TRICKS: Prada knows how to coddle its customers. said Giorgio Grassi Damiani, Damiani USA chairman and vice apprenticeship with Bendel’s, an opportunity to have their bags This month, the luxury goods house launched a made-to-order president of the Damiani Group. service for bags, initially only available in its three Milan stores, alongside Prada units in Rome, London and Monte Carlo. EIGHT IS ENOUGH: Hogan is tweaking its Olympia sneaker, Clients seeking individuality can now indulge in a fi rst designed for the 2004 Summer Games in Athens, for medium-size handbag with a gold metal zipper the Olympics in Beijing. The Tod’s Group-owned Italian and name tag. The bags are available in python A pair of accessories brand will issue a or ostrich and the color choices span from Hogan’s limited number of 888 pairs fuchsia and saffron yellow to rock brown and Olympia — symbolizing the games’ start salmon pink. Prices are available only upon sneakers. date of Aug. 8, 2008 — of the request in the stores. ultralight, ivory sneaker with a On a more whimsical note, Prada fans can turn to gold band and red and green the updated lineup of the house’s successful Tricks contrast stitching. They will be collection that includes teddy bear key rings and available at all Hogan fl agships Swarovski-studded sunglasses by Dolce & Gabbana. gadgets. They will be available in Prada fl agships worldwide starting in July. WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 16, 2008 13 WWD.COM Financing Fashion Many IPOs on Hold in Rocky Financial Times By Andrew Roberts pick up once market conditions brighten. the fi rst was June — although any deci- to local consumption,” D’Arpizio said. Claudia D’Arpizio, a partner in the sion will be subject to market conditions. She added Germany seemed to have MILAN — Initial public offering, anyone? luxury goods practice of consulting fi rm Bertelli said in April it was very completely recovered from a slowdown Anyone? Bain & Co., told WWD she expected much a matter of picking the right moin consumer spending and since mid-2007 With Tommy Hilfi ger shelving its plans, Italian fashion companies, which were ment. According to sources, he is con- was performing well and growing fast. Prada and the Neiman Marcus Group in preparing to list, to hold off from doing cerned about the economic climate, fol- This year, Bain has forecast worldwide no hurry and Salvatore Ferragamo still so for “some months.” lowing lower-than-expected sales so far growth in the luxury sector of 7 percent working on it, it would appear now is “But I don’t think this will mean they will this year, meaning Prada’s stock market in real terms and 1 to 2 percent in nomi- not the most fashionable time to launch give up their strategy of going public be- dance could carry on for a ninth year. nal terms due to currency fl uctuations. an IPO — and with the fi nancial markets cause it is not a decision they need to take D’Arpizio said the luxury market as “The big impact is again the currency weathering a beating, unsurprisingly so. with a short-term view of selling part of the a whole was holding up well, despite effect of the dollar still losing weight vis- Hilfi ger Group said in April it would company at the highest price,” she said. the slowdown in consumer spending in à-vis the euro and this is eroding growth reconsider listing at the end of 2009, after D’Arpizio explained that, while mar- the U.S. and Europe, due to growth in and profi tability,” D’Arpizio said. private equity owner Apax Partners post- ket conditions could affect the timing, emerging markets like Asia, India, Latin This, she said, was the underlying rea- poned the fashion company’s IPO on the the key reason some luxury goods com- America and Eastern Europe. son why many listed companies and re- eve of its road show in January because panies would eventually fl oat was that “The [fi rst-quarter] results of many lux- cent IPOs had not performed as well as of volatile market conditions. they needed to invest in their businesses ury players are positive in growth in real anticipated. Around the same time Prada SpA chief to safeguard future growth in an increas- terms,” she said. “Different [parts of the Italian luxury stocks have lost be- executive offi cer Patrizio Bertelli said ingly complex and competitive industry. world] are never impacted at the same time tween roughly 20 and 60 percent of their his company would defi nitely go public at There was also the question of succes- and in the same way in an economic down- value in the last six months. Fashion some point but was in no rush and ruled sion planning. turn, so there is always a buffer of growth.” group Aeffe SpA and jeweler Damiani out courting investors before the summer, “Many Italian and European compa- D’Arpizio said luxury consumption in SpA both made their debuts last year on confi rming a WWD report on April 14. nies…need really to change their pace the U.S. had taken a hit in the fi rst quar- the Milan Stock Exchange STAR segment And in March, Salvatore Ferragamo from family-owned, fi rst-generation en- ter and forecast further deceleration for small companies and are trading at SpA said it would decide before May trepreneurial organizations into some- “for the next three months,” mainly due around half their launch prices. whether to go ahead with its plans for a thing more managerial,” D’Arpizio said. to department stores marking down stock However, D’Arpizio concluded, there listing this year. No announcement was Prada, in particular, has been conspicu- early to protect profi ts. However, she were lessons to be learned from the last made, time has run out for a summer ous in this respect. The 95-year-old compa- added, luxury players were performing crisis in 2001, when brands like LVMH placement and Leonardo Ferragamo said ny, which is 95 percent owned by the Prada well or acceptably in their own stores. Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, Gucci and last week that the company “was still family, bolstered its management ranks “For sure, 2008 will be diffi cult in the Bulgari took advantage of a negative situ- working on it,” suggesting Ferragamo is last year, tapping former Gucci Group and U.S., but not a tragedy,” D’Arpizio said. ation to create differentiation. in no hurry either. Burberry executive Brian Blake for the Elsewhere in the world, she said there “They created a strong relationship Such hesitancy is not particular to the newly created role of chief operating offi - were signs of a recovery in Japan, where with their consumers and a competitive fashion industry. According to a study by cer, poaching Valentino executive Graziano department stores reported improved re- advantage that was there for the coming accountancy fi rm Ernst & Young, global de Boni as president and chief operating sults again for March and that Europe was years,” she said. IPO activity decelerated sharply in the fi rst offi cer of its U.S. business and appointing a mixed bag. Eastern Europe and Russia “In periods when the market is not quarter of the year — with 83 companies former banker and Prada adviser Carlo were growing very quickly while Italy, fl amboyant, there is the opportunity for withdrawing their IPOs and 24 companies Mazzi as executive vice president. France and the U.K. would suffer, but only diversifying your approach and really postponing their listings due to the credit Prada could now wait until November, in areas less dependent on tourism. creating a relationship with your con- crunch and sustained fi nancial turmoil. the second of two months it has touted as “There will be more impact in the sec- sumers and delivering a superior propo- Ernst & Young expects IPO activity to possible windows for an IPO this year — ond-tier locations, which are more linked sition. This can be the difference.”

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Timely Solutions for Varying Needs - At GMAC Commercial Finance, every client is unique. And so is our approach to them. We’re all about going the extra mile to customize and provide solutions tailored to your business needs. Whether you require working capital financing or funding for growth, call us and together we’ll develop a financing plan structured to give you your best shot at success. To learn more, please visit www.gmaccf.com or contact: Kevin McGarry President, Commercial Services Division at (212) 884-7084 or [email protected] Don Morrison Executive Vice President, Commercial Services Division at (248) 327-9362 or [email protected] Ernest White Senior Vice President/Southeast Sales Manager at (336) 638-6922 or [email protected] 14 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 16, 2008

Financing Fashion Inventory a Primary Focus in Diffi cult Climate First-Quarter Inventories By Jeanine Poggi tringent inventory control may be the mantra for most apparel retailers, but there is still plenty of RETAILERS 2008 2007 PERCENT CHANGE Sfat to trim. Of 28 specialty retailers tracked by WWD, 15 registered decreases in inventory levels during the fi rst Abercrombie & Fitch 347,628,000 401,753,000 -13.5 quarter, while 13 actually increased their levels from the fi rst quarter in 2007. However, according to research conducted by the Telsey Advisory Group, six of the companies — Aéropostale 134,976,000 107,575,000 +25.5 Chico’s FAS, Gymboree, Hot Topic, Tween Brands, TJX Cos. and Urban Outfi tters — were up when American Eagle 262,201,000 274,846,000 -4.6 measured by total stock, but Ann Taylor 252,235,000 281,314,000 -10.3 down when the fi gures were Bebe 52,100,000 53,400,000 -2.4 measured on a per-square- foot basis. Buckle 73,976,000 70,261,000 +5.3 While many retailers still Cache 32,524,000 36,153,000 -10.2 have a long way to go in their Cato 113,227,000 117,037,000 -3.2 inventory management strate- Charlotte Russe 46,600,000 39,500,00 +18 gies, total inventory increases are in part due to the opening Charming Shoppes 371,097,000 469,508,000 -21 of new stores and growth in Chico’s 161,260,000 141,473,000 +14 direct sales. Children’s Place 179,065,000 159,570,000 +12.2 At the Piper Jaffray Coldwater Creek 126,600,000 140,000,000 -9.6 Consumer Conference held in New York last week, Chico’s Gap 1,555,000,000 1,814,000,000 -13.8 said it had been working over Guess 202,804,000 164,500,000 +23.3 the past six months to try to Gymboree 95,557,000 84,975,000 +11.2 manage inventory investments Hot Topic 77,329,000 75,062,000 +2.9 and lower them to be more in line with current trends. Yet J. Crew 174,493,000 144,759,000 +20.5 fi rst-quarter inventories rose Limited Brands 1,224,000,000 1,816,000,000 -33 14 percent from a year ago. On New York & Company 119,685,000 124,351,000 -3.8 a square-foot basis they were Urban Outfi tters’ inventories declined on a per-square-foot basis. down 4 percent. Pacifi c Sunwear 167,508,000 210,200,000 -25.5 “While [the total] number does include new store growth, with comps trending down signifi cantly Ross Stores 1,028,600,000 1,101,500,000 -6.6 and inventories down on a per-square-foot basis only modestly, it seems clear that more cuts are need- Talbots 319,336,000 351,528,000 -9.2 ed,” said Thomas Filandro, retail analyst at Susquehanna Financial Group. Tween Brands 94,057,000 91,878,000 +2.4 “Many retailers will acknowledge they have excess amounts for the fi rst half and will have it lower for the third and fourth quarters,” said Mark Montagna, retail analyst at C.L. King & Associates. “By the TJX 2,899,800,000 2,829,300,000 +2.4 end of the fourth quarter levels may not come down too dramatically since many fl ushed out clearance Wet Seal 34,355,000 35,486,000 -3.1 at the end of January 2008.” Urban Outfi tters 191,287,000 168,131,000 +14 Even with major inventory cuts, some retailers are in despair as they watch merchandise sit on the Zumiez 58,654,000 50,285,000 +16.7 shelves, victims of a lack of fashion newness that has reinforced consumers’ reluctance to spend given the weak economy. Despite its 4.6 percent decrease in inventory during the quarter, American Eagle Outfi tters Inc. Total 10,395,954,000 11,314,845,000 -8.1

SOURCE: COMPANY REPORTS. ALL FIGURES BUT PERCENTAGES ARE IN DOLLARS.

The committee will meet has still had to resort to aggressive markdowns in order to clear merchandise, said Christine Chen, retail analyst at Needham & next week vs. Yes! Co. LLC. Gap Inc. lowered inventories 13.8 percent during the fi rst quarter, improving margins in the process, but contributing to a quarterly comparable-store sales dip of 11 percent. In May, the company’s U.S. Gap stores were down 7 percent on a comp basis, Banana Republic slid 5 percent and Old Navy, hardest hit in recent months, was down 25 percent. Overall, long-term inventory controls are positive, helping retailers to limit their margin vulnerability from clearance selling and build effi ciencies that wouldn’t be in place if the economy hadn’t soured, but they do not help the business bring the consumer back to the mall, Filandro said. But while consumers may not be taking notice, investors are re- warding retailers that are cutting inventories and penalizing those that are bringing in more product, Chen said. Inventory reductions will become even more important during the back-to-school season, said Eric Beder, retail analyst at Brean Murray Carret & Co. “With initial fall shipments in less than six weeks, the level of newness will continue to slacken, while the need Yes. It’s a word that helps businesses succeed. It’s a word we like to say and for price cuts to clear out goods will increase,” he said. “We believe most of our universe has continued to aggressively reduce inven- our clients like to hear. Since 1936, we’ve found ways to say yes to our clients’ tory exposure over the past few weeks. These efforts will accelerate changing financial needs. We don’t have committees that endlessly deliberate, even more as June deepens.” procrastinate or delay. Our clients deal with the owners of our firm, who are This could ease the demand for end-of-season deep discounting. Beder expects clearance levels to be less than last year even with expected to make fast decisions because that’s what our clients demand. rising unemployment and gas prices. Analysts predict retailers will continue to cut inventory levels, So if you want an entrepreneurial financial partner, someone who will help you not only during the second half of the year, but into 2009. assume the financial risks of your business, someone who will work as hard as “[Chief executive offi cers] have no idea what the second half will bring and have no confi dence that the consumer will return,” you do to ensure the success of your business, call Milberg Factors. You’ll talk Filandro said. with a decision maker on the first call and every call after that. Yes. It’s the way But how does this position stores for a turnaround? Once the we do business. consumer starts shopping again, retailers do run the risk of not having enough inventory on hand and could limit their upside sales potential, disappointing Wall Street. Milberg Factors, Inc. But this scarcity could create demand and more full-price selling and help retailers zero in on the styles that are needed at the stores, A Tradition of Creative Finance said Dana Telsey, president of Telsey Advisory Group. “Shoppers are more willing to pay for an item at full price if they think it won’t still be there the next week,” Chen said. Retailers will need to ensure systems are in place to have a fast www.milbergfactors.com enough turnaround if this happens. But missing out on sales due to insuffi cient inventory is hardly a high priority at the moment, as stores struggle with the toughest economic conditions in decades. Call Dan Milberg, SVP, NY 212.697.4200 “Unless there is a dramatic change in fashion, which is unlikely, Dave Reza, SVP, LA 818.649.8662 retailers can ramp up rather quickly if they see the costumer start to return,” Filandro said. “The best situation a retailer can be in at this point is the consumer coming back and not having enough ©2007 Milberg Factors, Inc. product to suit the demand.” WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 16, 2008 15 WWD.COM Retailers Under Scrutiny from Activist Investors Continued from page one Activism is most successful panies do react to the activists by slow to change companies and Myca and Crescendo Partners, being owned by, well, everybody. at boosting shareholder value changing their business strategy have a limited impact, they another investor, formed the And while once such activ- when the prodding results in the or accelerating their strategy.” are often the best available to Charming Shoppes Full Value ist shareholders were individu- sale of the company, said Robin That appears to have been the shareholders. Committee and took their case to als who would dominate an- Greenwood, associate professor case with Target investor William Despite a willingness to shake the press and shareholders. nual meetings with questions of business administration at Ackman, who bought into the things up, these investors are not The retailer fi red back, alleg- ranging from why a particular Harvard Business School. fi rm in a big way, scooping up a simply spoiling for a fi ght. ing in a federal lawsuit that the blouse style was discontinued Last year, Greenwood and 9.6 percent stake last summer. “It’s a lot of time and effort investors fi led misleading docu- to the price paid for an acquisi- Morgan Stanley’s Michael Schor, In a July 2007 filing with to be an activist,” said Robert ments with the SEC. tion, these days such sharehold- published a paper that exam- the Securities and Exchange Frankfurt, president of Myca Ultimately, the retailer cut ers are well-funded investment ined activist campaigns from Commission, Ackman’s Pershing Partners Inc., an investment a deal and, among other items, funds that have the wherewithal 1993 to 2006. They found that in Square Capital Management said fi rm that has pushed Charming agreed to support the nomina- — and staff — to wage long-term instances where a target com- it intended “to discuss with man- Shoppes to rejigger operations tion of retail veterans Richard battles. In both cases, the activ- pany wasn’t sold, its stock pro- agement ways in which this un- and boost profi tability. “It’s not Bennet 3rd and Michael ists see themselves as an impor- duced average results. dervaluation can be corrected.” for the faint of heart or the light Goldstein to the board. tant check on management. “Fundamentally they’re inves- That was widely interpreted of pocket.” “We’re anxious to move “I want them to know we’re tors, not managers, and their ob- to mean Ackman might push Charming Shoppes was a tar- forward,” said Gayle Coolick, watching them,” said Thomas jective is to make money quickly,” the company to sell off its credit get, in part, because of its fl ail- Charming Shoppes’ vice presi- Kahn, president of the Kahn he said. “They identify assets that card business. ing stock, which fell 60 percent dent of investor relations. “We Brothers equity fund. “As long are mispriced. It’s much harder to Though it is diffi cult to pin last year. The stock closed up 3.9 always think fresh perspective as they know you’re watching, it make money on some long-term down cause and effect, Target did percent to $5.39 Friday. is positive.” can be diffi cult for them to steal. strategic or operating change.” sell almost half of its credit card They’ll try, but it will be diffi cult.” In the end, that is what makes receivables to J.P. Morgan Chase Kahn fought his way onto these investors different from for $3.6 billion last month. Haggar Corp.’s board in 2003, hedge fund and other private eq- Over the last year, the hedge two years before the fi rm was uity players like Texas Pacifi c or fund has bought and sold shares sold for $212 million. Cerberus trawling the retail and of the firm and at the end of The retail sector has seen a fashion worlds looking for acqui- March owned 3.1 percent of fl urry of activist activity over the sitions. These investors are out Target’s stock — valued at more past few months. Just last week, Chico’s came under fire from Spotlight Capital Management LLC, which argued that John You like nothing better than to hear Burden 3rd, a former Macy’s ex- “ Team Up With Wells Fargo Century ecutive, should not be reelected to that some company you own has just To Achieve Your Goals the board because of a confl ict of interest related to a family mem- been targeted by Carl Icahn. ber who works at the retailer. — Robin Greenwood, Harvard” Business School 8FDPNCJOFPVSFOUSFQSFOFVSJBMBQQSPBDIUPGBDUPSJOH In April, Dillard’s reached an XJUIUIFSFTPVSDFT TUSFOHUIBOETUBCJMJUZPGPOFPGUIF accord with investors Barington OBUJPOTNPTUSFTQFDUFEöOBODJBMJOTUJUVUJPOTUPQSPWJEF Capital Group and Clinton Group to buy companies, grow them and than $1.25 billion as of last week. JOOPWBUJWFTPMVUJPOTUPNFFUBMMZPVSCVTJOFTTOFFET after months of back and forth. then sell them again at a signifi - On a more modest scale, The investment groups pushed cant profi t. Many activist share- Syms, a 33-store off-price chain t'BDUPSJOH %PNFTUJDBOE*OUFSOBUJPOBM the retailer to boost profi tabil- holders, on the other hand, tend based in Secaucus, N.J., has also t"DDPVOUT3FDFJWBCMFBOE*OWFOUPSZ'JOBODJOH ity and along the way pressured to be in it for the relative short attracted the attention of activ- t"DDPVOUT3FDFJWBCMF.BOBHFNFOU4FSWJDFT it to disclose information on the term — and are looking to force ists who think the company’s fi rm’s executives, including their a sale of the target company. stock is undervalued. t-FUUFSTPG$SFEJU compensation and perks such as Although managements might Esopus Creek Value, an invest- t5SBEF'JOBODF the use of private planes. fi rmly disagree as they sweat the ment fi rm that owns nearly 4 per- Ultimately, Dillard’s agreed pressure, Greenwood contended cent of Syms, said last week that For a quick response and competitive solutions, to elect four new members to its that, “Activism has been terrifi c its research suggests the retailer call us today! board and said it was committed for shareholders. You like noth- is understating its owned real to using its real estate assets and ing better than to hear that some estate assets by 33 percent. The capital as effi ciently as possible. company you own has just been investment fi rm said it would not The Dillard’s incident shows targeted by Carl Icahn.” vote for members of Syms’ board some of the mechanisms em- In January, at Financo Inc.’s who are up for reelection or to ployed by activist sharehold- annual dinner, the famed corpo- ratify the reappointment of its in- ers: once they target a firm, rate raider said retailers’ troubles dependent accountant. Together management needs to prepare on Wall Street made them ripe for Sy Syms, chairman, and his themselves for the possibility the picking. “You retail companies daughter Marcy Syms, chief ex- of angry letters to shareholders are in major stock trouble and ecutive offi cer, own 57 percent of and press releases poking holes that’s what I like,” said Icahn. the company. In December, Syms in their corporate strategy. Although activist investors decided to delist its shares from The measure of a sharehold- often grouse about mismanage- the New York Stock Exchange. er campaign, though, is not how ment or a moribund business This riled investors, who in turn much noise it makes, but what strategy, the common denominator fi led suit, prompting the com- impact it has on the stock. of their campaigns is a stock that pany to relist its shares, this time “Actions speak louder than is perceived to be unduly cheap. on the Nasdaq exchange. words,” said Scott Krasik, equity “A lot of it is driven by the It is not uncommon for ac- analyst at C.L. King & Associates value and the lack of forward tivists to take their cases to the Inc. “In the short term, people movement,” said Tom Chin, courts since often their appeals can draw their own conclusions, managing director of consulting to the public aren’t enough to but in the long term you’ve re- and analytics at Telsey Advisory move management. "DDFTTPSZ/FUXPSL(SPVQ --$ ally got to put up or shut up.” Group. “In some instances, com- Although these tools can be IBTPCUBJOFEB For a relationship that fits , choose Sterling. $65,000,000 Sterling Factors has been servicing small and mid-size companies for over 75 years. Let us create a customized factoring arrangement that fits your needs 4FDVSFE$SFEJU'BDJMJUZ for financing or for a non-borrowing relationship that provides credit protection QSPWJEFECZ and back office support. We are a full service factor that has built a solid reputation Wells Fargo Century in the Apparel Industry. Call us to find out how we can help protect your assets or provide funding to help fuel your growth. “Wells Fargo Century understood our business model and our long term growth aspirations. We are proud to partner with them on this exciting journey.” STERLING FACTORS CORPORATION A Subsidiary of STERLING NATIONAL BANK Abe Chehebar 'PVOEFS$&0 "DDFTTPSZ/FUXPSL(SPVQ --$ John LaLota, President John Saraniti, Director of Business Development 212.575.4415 212.575.3458 [email protected] [email protected] (866) 703-4932 twfcentury.com

www.SterlingFactors.com | Our Doors Are Open All The Way To The Top | EST. 1929 • NYSE: STL • Member FDIC ª8FMMT'BSHP$FOUVSZ *OD"MMSJHIUTSFTFSWFE 16 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 16, 2008 WWD.COM Financing Fashion

Weekly Stocks Fast Stats 52-WEEK P/E VOLUME AMT 52-WEEK P/E VOLUME AMT HIGH LOW COMPANIES LAST CHANGE HIGH LOW COMPANIES LAST CHANGE 85.77 65.93 Abercrombie & Fitch (ANF) 12.6 14178874 69.29 1.92 29.57 12.10 Jones Apparel (JNY) 0.0 9121039 15.33 -0.47 Crude oil forecasts, from around 29.00 14.04 Acadia (AKR) 28.3 942802 24.87 0.30 45.64 18.81 Jos. A. Bank (JOSB) 10.0 6998479 27.70 -0.33 $133 a barrel now: Down to 36.02 18.29 Aéropostale (ARO) 17.2 15207790 32.42 0.51 25.95 13.20 Kenneth Cole (KCP) 67.3 3005314 14.99 -0.79 $105 in September and $100 28.42 20.92 Alberto Culver (ACV) 22.3 2954795 27.44 0.64 71.16 61.69 Kimberly Clark (KMB) 15.0 9246078 62.62 0.51 in December. 2.85 1.00 Alpha Pro Tech (APT) 12.7 195725 1.00 -0.02 47.69 29.00 Kimco Realty (KIM) 27.3 9060921 37.79 -0.10 28.28 15.58 American Eagle (AEO) 9.5 17830965 16.56 -0.11 73.38 37.31 Kohl’s (KSS) 13.6 25372314 45.57 1.21 37.58 18.70 Ann Taylor (ANN) 16.4 8716849 25.90 0.97 29.16 13.89 K-Swiss (KSWS) 20.2 1459134 16.20 -1.00 Natural gas, from around $12.70 7.87 2.47 Ashworth (ASHW) 0.0 58367 3.40 0.34 22.99 13.00 LaCrosse Footwear (BOOT) 12.9 15270 15.09 0.64 per MMBtu (million British 42.51 31.95 Avon (AVP) 28.8 19145992 37.31 0.10 14.65 9.51 Lakeland Inds (LAKE) 21.7 48561 12.95 0.00 thermal units): Down to $11.25 8.99 1.30 Bakers (BKRS) 0.0 177671 1.69 -0.13 29.05 14.41 Limited Brands (LTD) 8.8 32597467 18.67 0.91 16.97 9.01 Bebe (BEBE) 14.5 2532453 10.66 0.16 19.78 7.33 Liquidity Services (LQDT) 26.6 768002 11.07 -0.45 in September and back up to 185.97 23.65 Benetton (BNGPY) 0.0 0 25.00 -1.60 38.90 15.25 Liz Claiborne (LIZ) 0.0 9948578 16.33 -0.22 $11.75 in December. 17.04 4.70 Big Dog (WALK) 0.0 5577 5.65 0.05 12.87 2.15 LJ Intl. (JADE) 9.0 1960462 3.50 0.07 8.08 3.15 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) 7.7 440 3.23 -0.08 60.70 21.25 Lululemon (LULU) 54.5 6971678 28.02 -1.06 Regular gasoline, from $3.98 per 42.48 26.36 BJs (BJ) 20.0 9706465 40.99 1.93 39.39 22.54 Luxottica (LUX) 16.3 877529 24.60 -2.22 gallon average: Down to $3.75 1.50 0.30 Blue (BLUE) 0.0 136183 0.40 0.03 93.45 57.50 Macerich (MAC) 29.3 3307403 67.25 -2.20 11.00 2.05 Bluefly (BFLY) 0.0 26523 4.15 0.40 45.50 20.81 Macy’s Inc. (M) 12.1 34608826 22.16 -0.09 in September and $3.45 in 48.76 4.01 Bon-Ton (BONT) 14.3 1152254 6.57 -0.23 21.70 11.03 Maidenform (MFB) 11.6 566224 14.88 0.47 December. 26.70 11.89 Brown Shoe (BWS) 11.1 3129319 15.69 0.19 56.64 16.76 Men’s Wearhouse (MW) 8.5 4779042 19.13 -0.67 51.45 30.05 Buckle (BKE) 17.8 2646662 48.13 1.50 24.44 9.12 Marcus (MCS) 22.6 494938 15.87 -0.78 Diesel fuel, from $4.76 per gallon: 19.04 8.00 Caché (CACH) 56.1 858866 13.48 -0.72 35.24 11.02 Mothers Work (MWRK) 0.0 185249 11.81 -0.19 25.60 7.56 Capitalsource (CSE) 26.6 17021122 14.43 -2.19 34.99 17.16 Movado (MOV) 9.3 704356 20.83 0.57 Down to $4.50 in September 27.90 13.12 Carter (CRI) 0.0 2565546 14.91 0.31 4.25 1.27 Movie Star (FOH) 0.0 24430 1.67 -0.25 and $4.25 in December. 13.44 3.35 Casual Male (CMRG) 0.0 1162141 4.30 0.11 26.15 19.75 National Retail Prop. (NNN) 9.3 4236550 21.31 -0.69 25.64 12.48 Cato (CTR) 15.4 709575 16.30 0.47 11.78 3.65 New York & Co. (NWY) 413.5 3381907 8.85 0.32 Heating oil, from about $4.20 40.36 21.12 CBL (CBL) 34.6 2734068 25.76 0.15 70.60 51.50 Nike (NKE) 18.5 18215710 68.99 1.06 per gallon: Down to $4.10 in 10.60 8.40 CCA (CAW) 11.5 28689 8.65 -0.15 4.20 0.99 Nitches (NICH) 0.0 42593 1.05 -0.14 5.73 1.10 Charles & Colvard (CTHR) 0.0 120421 1.26 -0.04 54.00 28.00 Nordstrom (JWN) 11.7 19231451 34.73 0.74 September and back up to 28.21 12.27 Charlotte Russe (CHIC) 12.0 1925538 18.69 0.39 6.76 3.20 Orange 21 (ORNG) 0.0 12831 3.57 -0.28 $4.25 in December. 12.00 4.01 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) 0.0 8997748 5.39 0.25 10.35 5.06 Orchids Paper (TIS) 14.8 12595 7.70 -0.20 82.17 55.68 Chattem (CHTT) 19.2 2837734 61.24 -0.49 46.34 19.77 Oxford (OXM) 10.4 2539415 21.92 -1.58 Electricity, at about 11.4 48.34 24.26 Cherokee (CHKE) 13.9 605849 25.66 -0.35 23.06 8.63 Pacific Sunwear (PSUN) 0.0 20523278 10.05 0.96 26.03 5.42 Chico’s (CHS) 21.7 18024618 6.95 0.04 5.44 2.63 Parlux Fragrances (PARL) 0.0 740617 4.97 0.07 cents per kWh (kilowatt hour) 54.60 14.92 Children’s Place (PLCE) 0.0 4330099 36.73 1.81 33.67 9.14 Payless Shoes (PSS) 35.8 9615632 13.29 1.28 now: Down to 11.2 cents in 19.38 7.65 Christopher & Banks (CBK) 20.3 1777079 9.82 -0.19 34.11 12.83 Perry Ellis (PERY) 12.6 1163446 23.00 -1.12 September and back up to 41.04 27.34 Cintas (CTAS) 12.9 5516656 28.44 0.32 61.60 30.50 Phillips-Van Heusen (PVH) 12.9 4805151 42.55 0.95 11.3 cents in December. 42.88 10.76 Citi Trends (CTRN) 24.2 1838667 24.44 0.90 4.45 1.10 Phoenix Footwear (PXG) 1.6 6857 1.59 0.04 50.95 23.22 Coach (COH) 16.4 37788051 33.66 -1.78 102.58 50.55 Polo Ralph Lauren (RL) 16.1 9315548 66.27 -0.51 24.94 3.40 Coldwater Creek (CWTR) 0.0 6142552 6.07 -0.15 33.67 19.17 PriceSmart (PSMT) 35.6 500800 23.98 -0.14 SOURCE: THE KIPLINGER LETTER 81.98 63.75 Colgate Palmolive (CL) 23.2 13175587 73.30 0.61 15.51 5.69 Quiksilver (ZQK) 0.0 13984013 9.20 0.10 70.06 34.65 Columbia Sprtswr (COLM) 10.6 1675720 41.02 -0.73 13.14 6.52 R.G. Barry (DFZ) 12.1 48984 8.00 0.27 32.19 11.50 Conns (CONN) 10.4 1615506 17.40 0.80 38.15 19.04 Ramco-Gershenson (RPT) 16.6 921869 21.62 -0.45 75.23 55.60 Costco (COST) 25.7 33025781 70.32 -0.87 81.04 52.61 Regency Centers (REG) 27.5 2405478 63.89 -1.32 WWD Index 75.21 8.83 Crocs (CROX) 5.6 28839161 9.30 -0.48 17.35 3.77 Retail Ventures (RVI) 1.2 2332091 4.99 0.00 12.30 6.12 Culp (CFI) 26.3 78137 7.10 0.09 1.44 0.80 Revlon (REV) 20.5 1662268 0.85 0.03 2.19 0.11 Cygne Designs (CYDS) 0.0 25650 0.35 -0.02 19.23 4.80 Rocky Brands (RCKY) 0.0 43163 5.59 0.06 166.50 83.51 Deckers Outdoor (DECK) 23.7 1849779 128.79 0.38 37.45 21.23 Ross Stores (ROST) 18.1 9575652 37.30 0.75 8.07 1.50 Delia’s (DLIA) 0.0 345787 2.09 -0.02 23.05 11.04 Saks (SKS) 33.3 13394969 12.50 0.37 Composite 19.99 2.09 Delta Apparel (DLA) 0.0 356475 3.30 0.40 176.00 79.72 Sears (SHLD) 21.2 11953589 82.76 0.40 911.65 5.55 4.50 Delta Galil (DELTY) 0.0 0 5.45 0.00 29.54 10.54 Shoe Carnival (SCVL) 17.7 403787 15.22 0.24 59.27 32.20 Developers Diversified (DDR) 22.7 6003045 39.24 -0.14 3.34 0.52 Shoe Pavilion (SHOE) 0.0 124127 0.52 -0.25 38.62 13.84 Dillard’s (DDS) 77.6 10209551 14.30 -0.72 109.00 74.80 Simon Properties (SPG) 50.5 9271901 98.09 0.37 22.45 9.35 Dress Barn (DBRN) 11.3 2590767 15.07 0.05 31.32 16.05 Skechers (SKX) 10.8 4280714 20.73 -1.52 38.40 11.46 DSW (DSW) 15.0 2135629 13.99 -0.03 4.47 1.82 Sport-Haley (SPOR) 0.0 5156 1.99 -0.29 40.88 9.35 Duckwall-Alco (DUCK) 0.0 33091 11.90 -0.15 13.14 3.29 Stein Mart (SMRT) 0.0 1443790 5.14 -0.19 14.27 2.91 Eddie Bauer (EBHI) 0.0 1229291 4.36 0.00 4.33 2.54 Stephan (TSC) 13.4 1196 3.48 0.28 28.05 12.81 Elizabeth Arden (RDEN) 11.0 1558562 15.19 0.76 5.80 33.86 14.61 Steve Madden (SHOO) 15.3 1123523 20.91 -0.82 49.09 37.03 Estée Lauder (EL) 21.2 8041433 48.84 2.60 13.60 8.13 Superior Uniform (SGC) 18.5 88289 8.85 0.02 35.42 14.62 Family Dollar (FDO) 14.5 16430284 21.59 -0.61 16.48 10.38 Syms (SYMS) 313.6 8781 16.09 -0.04 12.90 1.48 Finish Line (FINL) 0.0 7777979 8.00 -0.19 26.10 6.48 Talbots (TLB) 0.0 10064197 11.44 3.13 25.77 20.05 Forest City (FCY) 0.0 2900 22.65 -0.35 46.25 24.81 Fossil (FOSL) 16.8 4004570 31.76 1.01 13.15 3.82 Tandy Brands (TBAC) 0.0 9591 5.66 0.73 14.04 7.71 Freds (FRED) 46.3 1923250 12.92 0.12 7.55 2.22 Tandy Leather Factory (TLF) 13.7 11152 3.05 -0.15 Weekly % Changes 44.46 28.08 G&K (GKSR) 14.8 354497 34.55 -0.19 44.43 32.32 Tanger Factory Outlet (SKT) 45.3 2390721 38.10 -1.31 70.75 47.01 Target (TGT) 15.7 45970665 53.54 1.02 (ending June 13) 30.73 12.25 Gaiam (GAIA) 34.1 2038261 12.82 -1.17 22.02 15.20 Gap (GPS) 15.1 53597277 18.00 0.83 1.38 0.40 Tarrant Apparel (TAGS) 7.7 187895 0.66 -0.07 57.84 30.20 General Growth (GGP) 148.6 14836225 39.63 -0.10 61.52 41.30 Taubman (TCO) 65.1 2324900 52.84 -0.67 Gainers Change 54.15 18.76 Genesco (GCO) 5.0 3888211 27.64 1.69 10.63 2.50 Tefron (TFR) 0.0 61345 2.75 -0.13 21.00 10.73 G-III Apparel (GIII) 15.0 574608 15.12 -0.30 57.34 32.84 Tiffany & Co. (TIF) 19.7 10902774 46.67 1.07 Talbots 37.67 46.47 23.75 Gildan Activewear (GIL) 20.9 2779617 28.15 -0.47 26.90 12.83 Timberland (TBL) 21.8 1714005 18.20 0.34 Jaclyn 27.27 27.50 10.31 Glimcher (GRT) 8.0 1038669 12.45 -0.59 34.93 25.49 TJ Maxx (TJX) 18.4 24429146 33.07 1.46 13.36 1.85 Gottschalks (GOT) 0.0 86872 2.19 0.03 26.85 13.89 True Religion (TRLG) 19.6 3077494 25.63 0.98 Tandy Brands 14.81 47.00 16.99 Tween Brands (TWB) 10.9 2417307 18.84 0.47 57.20 30.00 Guess (GES) 18.8 7782034 41.53 -1.39 Delta Apparel 13.79 47.69 25.99 Gymboree (GYMB) 14.4 4650025 43.76 0.91 73.40 25.32 Under Armour (UA) 35.0 4895411 31.75 -1.38 20.25 5.05 Hampshire (HAMP) 0.0 2800 5.50 -0.49 3.06 1.80 Unifi (UFI) 0.0 506741 2.97 0.02 Ashworth 11.11 37.73 21.47 Hanesbrands (HBI) 20.7 7183257 31.99 0.35 50.46 34.60 Unifirst (UNF) 15.8 484776 47.33 0.72 8.69 1.97 Hartmarx (HMX) 0.0 544923 2.04 -0.10 35.37 19.20 Urban Outfitters (URBN) 31.5 20417644 33.65 2.44 29.26 14.56 Helen of Troy (HELE) 9.4 908497 18.42 0.26 96.20 63.68 VF Corp. (VFC) 13.1 3027622 72.78 0.00 Decliners Change 11.45 3.90 Hot Topic (HOTT) 17.1 2386797 6.18 0.10 51.00 13.82 Volcom (VLCM) 16.7 2116707 26.81 -0.05 0.07 0.02 House of Taylor (HOTJ) 0.0 36380 0.02 -0.01 59.95 42.09 Wal-Mart (WMT) 18.5 101730735 59.18 0.81 House of Taylor -35.71 35.72 19.00 IAC Interactive (IACI) 0.0 12222865 21.34 0.11 51.22 28.70 Warnaco (WRNC) 39.5 0 50.13 0.00 Shoe Pavilion -32.47 24.48 12.03 Iconix (ICON) 11.3 11351040 13.46 0.64 45.00 27.59 Weingarten (WRI) 14.5 4011785 32.83 -0.49 19.96 9.03 Inter Parfums (IPAR) 18.3 1039041 16.05 -0.23 34.31 23.70 Weyco (WEYS) 14.2 62736 27.04 -0.56 Capitalsource -13.18 2.36 0.06 Wilsons (WLSN) 0.0 1743590 0.10 0.00 57.17 32.97 J. Crew (JCG) 20.9 11961043 34.75 -0.48 Movie Star -13.02 76.99 33.27 J.C. Penney (JCP) 8.6 21255581 39.47 0.90 31.21 19.85 Wolverine (WWW) 14.7 1584004 27.56 -0.66 7.00 4.80 Jaclyn (JCLY) 0.0 35271 7.00 1.50 26.08 12.48 Zale (ZLC) 53.2 4601295 21.53 1.22 Sport-Haley -12.72 2.45 0.60 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 19.8 423062 1.18 0.06 53.99 13.26 Zumiez (ZUMZ) 23.4 2117666 21.90 2.07

FINANCIAL SERVICES FOR THE APPAREL AND FOOTWEAR BUSINESS SINCE 1938 HERE THEN. HERE NOW. HERE TOMORROW.

FACTORING | ASSET-BASED LENDING | DIRECT ACCESS TO THE PRIME DECISION-MAKERS

For more information, please call Michael Cipriani, Executive Vice President, 212-356-1499, Gary Turkish, Executive Vice President, 212-356-1728, or Peter Menna, Executive Vice President, 212-356-1408. WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 16, 2008 17 WWD.COM New Lauder Products Target Airline Travelers

LONDON — Estée Lauder is taking air- blow up planes, which limit the amount parent zip-up cosmetics bag. a moisturizer, then a foundation, etcetera,” port security regulations and skin care of liquid- and gel-based products passen- The line’s formulations, which focus said Descamps. “When you travel, you needs of frequent fliers on by introduc- gers may carry onboard. on moisturizing skin, were also concoct- don’t have time to do things in that order.” ing its first treatment products developed “It was a very selfi sh initiative,” said ed with frequent fl iers in mind, since air- Super Flight Creme will retail in specifically for the travel retail market. Virginie Descamps, vice president of Estée plane air is notoriously drying. airports in the U.K. at 32.50 pounds, or Super Flight Creme, a two-unit line Lauder marketing for travel retailing “There are different types of dehydra- $63.36 at current exchange. set to bow worldwide July 1, was created worldwide, of Super Flight Creme’s cre- tion,” said Descamps. “We wanted to pro- Industry sources estimate Super to adhere to rules introduced in many ation. “I really wanted something that an- vide an instant boost to treat dehydration Flight Creme will generate fi rst-year re- countries following an alleged 2006 ter- swered my needs on long-haul fl ights, espe- on the spot.” tail sales of $6 million to $7 million. rorist plot involving liquid explosives to The line, which will be exclusively sold in travel retail outlets, will be pro- At home, you start with a serum, then a moisturizer, moted in airports and, in some cases, “ onboard fl ights. A lipstick line, also con- then a foundation, etcetera. When you travel, you cocted exclusively for travel retail, will bow in January. don’t have time to do things in that order. — Brid Costello — Virginie Descamps, the Estée” Lauder Cos. Inc.

cially overnight fl ights to Asia, and because The moisturizer, called Continuous Horowitz Joins Sue Devitt of new regulations and having to scale Hydration for Face, contains algae ex- ric Horowitz, who left Group Clarins down on toiletries, tract and hyaluron- EUSA last October, has teamed up with something that was ic acid to boost Australian makeup artist Sue Devitt. sure to get through se- moisture levels as He is the chief executive offi cer of curity and meet those well as glucose and Sue Devitt Beauty, while she continues requirements.” BEAUTY BEAT glycine to calm and as founder and creative director. The Airport regula- soothe skin. The two of them are partners in the fi ve- tions require passengers to present liq- eye cream, called Continuous Hydration year-old New York-based beauty com- uid and gel products in bottles no larger for Eyes, is said to soothe and strengthen pany, along with the fi rm’s chief backer, than 100 ml. in resealable transparent the eye area and reduce puffi ness. Both Metro Media. bags at security. Super Flight Creme products have a gel-cream texture so they When Horowitz left Clarins, he had products, which comprise a 50-ml. tube can be applied over makeup, according logged 20 years with the company, ulti- of moisturizer and a 20-ml. tube of eye to the company. mately rising to president of the Clarins Estée Lauder’s Super Flight Creme kit. cream, are packaged together in a trans- “At home, you start with a serum, then brand in the U.S.

WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS Professional Services

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 212.630.3963 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

Improve your Runway Walk with Fashion Designer & Runway Coach D'marsh Class Schedules, Monday to Saturday 10am -12pm, 12:15pm-2:15pm & 6:30pm-8:30pm $30 per Hour Minimum 2 hour per class • Private class available • Bring shoes with you Appointment only and serious inquiries only. To schedule an appointment or for more info Call: (646) 361-5087 • www.Houseofdmarch.com Please call to confirm appointment before class 55 Chrystie St. Suite 308 3rd floor

PROFESSIONAL TECHNICAL & DESIGN SERVICES BY PROFESSIONALS WITH OVER 20 YEARS INDUSTRY EXPERIENCE IN MENS, WOMENS, AND CHILDRENSWEAR HIGH END BRANDS Fit Evaluation, Developing Specs, Grading, Patternmaking, Sketching, Design Packages and Boards. Call: 646.522.1404 18 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 16, 2008 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS Professional Services

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 212.630.3963 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

Gelberg Braid Say hello to the country’s fastest growing Manufacturer of Custom Trimmings Custom House Broker: FOR THE APPAREL & HOME FURNISHING TRADE CLEARPOINT INTERNATIONAL FRINGES, BELTS, TASSELS •Customs Clearance •Import Programs BRAIDS, CORDS, BUTTONS •Duty Drawback •Customs Compliance •Global Logistics 231 West 39th St. New York, NY 10018 Los Angeles - New York - Atlanta - Shanghai 212-730-1121 213.489.3816- FAX:213.489.3826 www.gelbergbraid.com Email:[email protected] www.clearpointint.com DAVID ALLEN, INC. PRODUCTION SOURCING AND CONSULTING Logistics; Warehouse Designer or Small to Mid-Sized Companies Management & Transportation Services •Reduce your expenses & overhead • Air/Pier Import Trucking • Pick & Pack or Flat •We provide part/full service manufacturing • Fulfillment • Ticketing and Marketing •Sourcing In Asia, NYC, or Central America • EDI ASN/UCC Label • GOH •From receipt of orders to final shipments • Invoicing • Inspections • Shipping to Consolidators • Quick Turnaround •Some financing available We service the entire metropolitan Ask for help:212.643.0805 ext.12, Frank New York City/Tri-state area email: [email protected] Tel: 201.794.2177 [email protected] Fax: 201-794-9716 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 16, 2008 19 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

For more career opportunities log on to fashioncareers.com. Call 1.800.423.3314 or e-mail [email protected] to advertise.

Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Call CLOTHES-OUT: (937) 898-2975 SALES MANAGER- RTW Christian Dior is seeking a RTW COMMERCIAL RETAIL OPERATIONS ANALYST We are looking for exceptional Sales Mgr who will be responsible Department & Specialty Store REAL ESTATE Versace, a leading luxury design house, is seeking a candidate who is candidates for the following for managing wholesale accts for Account Executive hands-on, enthusiastic, and full of potential. Will be resp. for supporting positions: Christian Dior Women’s and Men RTW. Must have 5+ yrs exp in Must have established relation- the team w/analysis as related to inventory mgmt & allocation strategies. DESIGN Will also oversee POS retail systems; generating auditing and inventory RTW and the abilty to travel. ships with Better Contemporary • Senior Knitwear Designers: Department & Specialty Stores. reports, and will conduct store visits ensuring that all day to day retail Women’s and Men’s Please Fax resume to: functions comply w/corporate standards. Ideal candidate must have 2+ yrs Must have ability to build new busi- • Knitwear Designer (917) 463-1038 or E-mail: ness relationships, as well as related Retail/Apparel exp; Excellent analytical, computer, communications [email protected] skills are required. build onto and strengthen existing • Technical Knitwear Designer E O E business. Candidates must have Please submit your resume & salary history to: [email protected] • Freelance Designer 3-5 years solid experience in sales with a proven track record of ach- SALES ieving sales goals. • Account Executives: Branded and Private Label Fax resume to: Attn: Human Resources Please visit: SALES EXECUTIVE Contemporary LA based company seeks (213) 891-2812 www.ChristopherFischer.com sales executive for their NY showroom. Min of 2- 3 years experience in sales, with em- or email Showrooms & Lofts /employment for full details. [email protected] BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS phasis on men’s accounts. salary + com- Great ’New’ Office Space Avail mission. E-mail or fax resume to : E/O/E ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 PR Associate to support Sales and Marketing [email protected] / 213.327.0220 The ideal candidate will have 3-5 years experience in luxury fashion, special NATIONAL SALES MANAGER SALES / RETAIL [email protected] event leadership, polished verbal and written skills strong industry contacts, HANDBAGS VP-Sales/Hi-end home textile $100-150k+ For well established NYC based large Acct Exec/Hi-end childrenswear $60k+ and a proven track record. Salary commensurate with experience. suki, inc. advanced organic accessory co. Manage a mjr. branded Store Managers/ Madison Av $60k+ Please E-mail your resume to: [email protected] skincare seeks exp. professionals active/sport style handbag line. Req: Office Asst/Hi-end fashion $40k+ 5 -10 yrs. High level handbag sales SLS-INFANT ACCESSORIES OPEN $ w/ 3-5 yrs operations, business & exec. w/mgmt. exp. selling on a Nat’l. 526 Seventh Ave ACCOUNTANTS $65-85k. Bilingual. Major company seeks some experience Hat Production Manager customer service mgmt. exp. for basis to a diverse account base. Must infants market. Growth spot. Spanish/Engl reqd. 4yr accounting de- be based in NY area. Showrooms gree reqd. 2 yrs min exp in manufac- High-end NY hat co. seeks hands-on general manager at our Western, experienced person to oversee hat pro- E-mail resume: [email protected] A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. turing co reqd. Financial statements, MA facility. (Fax) 917-591-2521 (Tel) 914-337-3660 450 7TH AVE (AGCY) 212-268-6123 2,200 SF Full Floor costing, etc. Work w/factory managers. duction. Must have 1-2 yrs hat prod Must successfully manage every One position in Middlesex County, NJ. exp domestic & overseas with felt/ Building 526 Seventh Ave One position in Chile, South America. straw hats, cutsew hats, belts, hand- aspect of operations & have a track SALES EXECUTIVE VP Sales- Footwear knits. Must have exp sourcing/costing, (N/W Corner of 38th Street) [email protected] 973-564-9236 record of success in leadership at a Established Importer of Novelty New luxury women’s footwear brand is Excel, QC. Email resume + salary req: building its dream team. Seeking an Space Entire 5th & 9th Floor [email protected] company grossing 10m+ in the Sweaters/ Knits & Outerwear seeks Area 2,200 Square Feet (Each Flr) beauty biz. submit resume: a Sales Executive with strong Dept/ experienced sales professional to help Administrative Assistant Specialty Chain contacts to cultivate guide the launch and growth of the Rent Upon Request Professional with min 2+ yrs exp. to work [email protected]. new & maintain existing accounts. brand. The ideal candidate will have Inventory Planner To $70K Must have at least 5 years exp. Positive an established record in building luxury in fast paced ofc in an Import Textile Co. Jewelry. 3+ yrs experience. We will contact considered •Full Floor Showroom Presence Strong computer skills w/excel written energy & strong follow-up a must. brands with upper echelon retailers and Superb Co. & environment. applicants. No phone calls please . key industry contacts. We offer you in the Heart of the Garment and oral communication. Write/track Call or fax resume to: Lisa e-mail: [email protected] Tel: 212-302-3744/ Fax: 212-302-5184 the most exciting new salon collection orders for customers to overseas suppli- KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS Center. ers and communicate daily w/both. The Email: [email protected] in the country. Location is flexible Senior Patternmaker within the United States. Salary and •New Renovated Lobby right multi-tasker will be detail-oriented High-End Luxury Co. seeks highly and able to take initiative in problem benefits commensurate with experience. •25 Windows per Floor with MERCHANDISER skilled and exp’d Patternmaker/ Draper SALES EXECUTIVE Please e-mail resume to: solving, follow-up and alternative reso- for couture gowns, dresses and ready Seeking salesperson for established Great Natural Light lution. Resume: [email protected] Newborn importer seeks a self-started, [email protected] motivated person to be our on-site to wear. Minimum of 7-10 years of cou- textile agency. Min 3-4 yrs exp. Please contact: Yuly Martinez merchandiser. The ideal candidate ture exp. required. Freelance or full Salary & benefits.Please fax res to: time position available. Please fax or (212) 398-1340 or must have 2-5 yrs experience. Knowl- _ 212.921.9827 ext. 19 ASST PRODUCTION edge of technical design. Mac profi- email resume to: 646-304-5674 or E-mail: fabric [email protected] [email protected] COORDINATOR cient. Please send resume and portfo- [email protected] Leading NYC knit & swtr importer lio: [email protected] SALES - Handbags seeks Asst Prod Coordinator with 2-5 Technical Designer to $100K. Curr exp Established importer of popular priced years experience. Prepare sample & in full fashion sweaters. Exp w/Walmart handbags seeking experienced paperwork packages and communicate Product Development or Target account req. Mdtn growing co. salesperson. Must be highly motivated, w/overseas factories on a daily basis. Major apparel co. seeks individual for [email protected] 973-564-9236 strong organizational and detail skills, Computer experience/excellent verbal product development position. Responsi- active accounts available. & written communication skills bilities include reviewing design Please email resume [email protected] required. Email resume to HR: worksheets & coordinating information Technical Product Manager or fax (212) 629-3123 PRODUCTION Broadway Garment Center [email protected] or fax between design dept and production White Plains infant products mfr seeks experienced & detail oriented product Experienced professional available full NICE OFFICE + SHOWROOM to: 212-221-8373 dept. Focus on sampling, fabric, & acces- SALES $$$$$ or part time. All aspects of production AVAILABLE TO SHARE sories. Must have good organization, manager who has ability to multi task. Intimates. Moderate Market. Responsibilities include creating spec and quality from start to finish. Please Call Joan @ 917-907-1667 communication, & computer skills. [email protected] Money Saver. Contact: 516-425-5444 DESIGNER $90-$130k. Garment construction knowledge, fabric pkgs & daily communication w/overseas Current strong exp in bridal. Top well development, & Wal-mart exp a plus. offices on approvals. Must have extensive known design name. Midtown loc. Email resumes: [email protected] knowl. of garment construction, fit specs, [email protected] 973-564-9236 grading, fabric & trim. Patternmaking a plus. The right candidate must have PRODUCTION COORD TO $55K excellent communication/follow up skills. Bi-lingual Chinese. Sportswear. Please E-mail resume to: [email protected] [email protected] or Fax to: 914-428-0610 DESIGNER-ASSISTANT Working directly with Rozae Nichols Production Jobs! Warehouse Shipping Mgr Assist $70-80k. designing collection of 2 divisions. Prod’n Coord, Accessories $50K Current experience in shipping appa- Design development & trim analysis Prod’n Assist, Textiles $35K rel to stores such as Sears, Kmart, etc. under the direction of Rozae Nichols e-mail: [email protected] Knowledge vendor compliance re- Administrative for sample production KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS quirements. Middlesex County, NJ. in implementing design process from [email protected] 973-564-9236 start to finish competitive salary & benefits program. Fax resume to Production Management Caribbean Handbag Factory (213) 489-1615 or [email protected], Men’s apparel importer (Nassau County) High Quality, Quick turnarounds, Attn: ST. No phone calls. seeks experienced production person. Low minimums, Tax Free Zone Detail oriented with top computer Sample department and production skills. Follow up on production orders P: 561-694-1314 E: [email protected] DESIGNER-JUNIOR with at least 5 years prod. exp. in Apparel company seeks Junior Designer. men’s specs and garment fittings. Flat sketching, trim sourcing, presen- Email: [email protected] tation boards & follow up. Photoshop, Handbag Contract Work Illustrator & Excel skills. Experience Hi-end fashion bags, Sample, Patterns Production or Product preferred, but not a must. Assistant or Coordinator or Manager & 1st Samples. “No production is too Fax resume to: 917-591-7969 small or too big”. 718-625-8969 Many Jobs-Excellent Salaries Key Account Exec $200K +++ BOE. [email protected] Call B. Murphy(212)643-8090; fax 643-8127 Current exp in private label missy & DESIGNER to $80K. Current exp in plus size women’s sportswear. Knits & designer contemporary cut & sew wovens min 5-10 mil vol currently. jersey knit tops & dresses. Well known PRODUCT MANAGER Strong relationships with Kohl’s or Patterns/Samples/Production better priced name. Must hang w/ Urban Designer Brand seeking Prod- Target or JCPenney or Sears required. Any Style. We do Bridal/Evening Rick Owens, Tse, Alaia, Alexander uct Manager for Men’s Big & Tall [email protected] 973-564-9236 Gowns custom made & wholesale. McQueen, Calvin Klein, etc. Sportswear Division. Responsibilities Call: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 [email protected] 973-564-9236 include adopting Regular Size styles Key Account Exec $200K +++BOE + Volume into B&T Tech Packs / send Fabrics Current exp in private label junior or /Trims/TP’s to Mfctr – Monitor Devel- missy jeans. Excel compensation pack- Fabric Coordinator opment & Approve for Production. age. Min $5-10mil vol currently required. PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Women’s Apparel Company in NY Detailed and thorough follow-up a [email protected] 973-564-9236 seeks an organized and detail-oriented must. Adobe Illustrator / Excel required. Email resume: [email protected] PRODUCTIONS individual to order, source and classify KEY ACCOUNT EXEC $$ Open. All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. fabric. Must have ability to work well Current exp selling Junior knit sports- Call Sherry 212-719-0622. in a team & good communication wear to Wet Seal or Forever 21 or Char- skills. Please send resume to: SALES DIRECTOR lotte Russe. Midtown hot junior co. [email protected] / fax 212-764-4599 Seventh Ave eveningwear design company seeks a Sales Director to handle [email protected] 973-564-9236 PATTERNS, SAMPLES, existing dept store accounts, as well Graphic Artist/ as, eveningwear specialty store list. National Sales Manager PRODUCTIONS Must have exp. Fax/email resumes to: Growing Dallas based contemporary Full service shop to the trade. Assistant Designer 212.719.1064 / [email protected] women’s apparel manufacturer seek- Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Girls Tween Market with Fashion ing an experienced leader . Results sense for Jr. Flare for the Mass market. and people oriented professional to Must have great taste and keen eye for Samplemaker/Fitter drive product development vision and color and trends, must be able to give Experienced in couture cocktail and profitably grow sales on a national bas- PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD print and graphic directions. Please evening wear, for NY showroom. es by brand and territory. Email: High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- send resume to: [email protected] or fax Please call Ron at 212-317-1418 or Fax [email protected] Visit: sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 to 212-736-0170 Attn: Lina Resume to: 212-832-4849 www.ivyjane.com 20 WWD, MONDAY, JUNE 16, 2008 WWD.COM BEST FOOT FORWARD AUSTRALIA’S SWEEPING OUTBACK MIGHT SEEM AN unlikely place for a well-shod woman to fi nd herself settling down. But that’s precisely where Nicole Kidman, playing an aristocrat who inherits a sprawling ranch just before World War II, lands — wearing Salvatore Ferragamo, no less — in this November’s Baz Luhrmann-directed epic “Australia.” “When you think of the Thirties, one of the fi rst names of shoes that comes to mind is Ferragamo,” says Catherine Martin, the fi lm’s Oscar-winning costume designer, who last year approached the Italian house to collaborate on the shoe wardrobe for Kidman’s character, Lady Sarah Ashley. According to Martin, the house’s history of turning out bold-colored shoes in mixed fabrics inspired her own designs for Kidman, from A guest a classic two-tone spectator pump to a raffi a Mary Jane — Eva with Karl “modeled on a patented Ferragamo design of the period,” says Jeanbart- Lagerfeld Martin — which Kidman wears with a pink cheongsam. Daphne and Jasmine Guinness Lorenzotti cutouts. Chanel Crossing In the middle of a steamy and bustling Manhattan, Bulgari threw a relaxed garden party at the Elizabeth Street Gallery Wednesday night to introduce its Jasmin Noir fragrance. As a peppy jazz trio played and the scent of fresh gardenias wafted through the air, guests including Ann Dexter-Jones, Allison Sarofi m, Eva Jeanbart-Lorenzotti, Lisa Airan and Gucci Westman discussed summer plans. (Apparently, Saint-Tropez is still the gold standard and everyone who’s anyone will be there in late July and early August.) But Arianna Huffi ngton, who was hopping a plane back to Los Angeles the next morning, couldn’t shake off work, asking various partygoers to be guest bloggers on the Huffi ngton Post. The night before in London, Chanel launched an “ephemeral boutique” in the Dover Street Market, in which to showcase its Metiers d’Arts Paris-Londres collection. The fashion house brought a few elements of the French capital to the store, including giant cutout fi gures of Karl Lagerfeld, a dressing room painted to look like quilted leather and mannequins done up with giant beehives and winged eyeliner, like the models in the Paris-Londres show. Loree Rodkin, Ronnie Sassoon, Amanda Harlech, Daphne and Jasmine Guinness, Astrid Muñoz and Saffron Aldridge sipped Champagne as they scurried between fl oors of the six-story boutique. Pieces from the collection were scattered throughout the store, and will be sold there through June, alongside quilted Union Jack purses. The ubiquitous duo Agyness Deyn and Henry Holland took to the decks for the evening to spin what Deyn called a “mismatch” of tracks, from Dolly Parton’s “Jolene” to Madonna’s Eighties hits. Stephen Jones, meanwhile, marveled at the giant black and gold Chanel clothes hangers that formed part of the installation, while he sampled some of the label’s fragrances on display. “I’ve got a stall upstairs that Chanel has taken over,” he said. “I think I’ll ask them for perfume as rental.”

Saffron Aldridge Astrid Muñoz Arianna Nicole Hufﬁ ngton Kidman in Australia.

Of course, the late Salvatore Ferragamo himself was no stranger to the movie business. The cobbler got his start in 1920 designing shoes in Hollywood, and since then his company has worked on more than 50 fi lms including “Some Like It Hot,” “The Postman Always Rings Twice” and “Evita” (the real-life Eva Peron was a devoted Ferragamo client). For Lady Sarah Ashley, “Catherine had a very specifi c vision,” says James Ferragamo, director of women’s shoes and leather goods. “Authenticity was extremely important.…We sent Catherine reference books from our library, and images of some of the most famous clients.” The resulting 18 shoe styles thus serve as something of a catalogue of the house’s history: The ribbed wedge detailing in one shoe derives from a style once worn by Katharine Hepburn, while the deep red of an evening sandal was, according to Ferragamo, already a house signature by the Forties. And, as he is quick to point out, even the fi tting process was true to the label’s Old Hollywood traditions. Along with his best craftsman, Ferragamo met with Kidman in person, taking a cast of her foot, from which the house made Gucci Westman in a wooden last, or mold, to create the shoes. It is, naturally, yet Marc Jacobs with another piece of history for the Ferragamo archives. David Neville. — Sarah Haight

SCIENCE FICTION: Acting was not always the plan for Chatterjee. In college, she had more technical pursuits in HOME AND AWAY mind. “I majored in chemistry. I wanted to be a biochemist. Cliché dictates that most aspiring actresses I was very fascinated by pollution and wanted to work on will wait tables to make ends meet. Tannishtha the environment. Then I don’t know what happened to me. I Chatterjee, who appears in the fi lm “Brick Lane” just said to myself, ‘I don’t want to spend the rest of my life opening Friday, chose a more eccentric path. having dinner every day in the lab.’” After graduating from the National School of Drama in New Delhi, Chatterjee, who was born PARENTAL CONTROL: Though they have now come to terms in Pune, outside Mumbai, found herself one of with her career choice, at fi rst Chatterjee’s folks weren’t so three singers in Teer, India’s fi rst all-girl band. keen on her theatrical ambitions. “They were quite upset. “It was very cheesy pop. It thankfully lasted for Tannishtha Chatterjee in “Brick Lane.” Indian parents always think that theater and music should not more than six months,” she laughs. Since be a hobby and science should be a profession, and so my then, Chatterjee has appeared onstage in theaters ACT YOUR AGE: Chatterjee was the fi rst person to audition for the father very typically thought that if you have any gray matter across Europe; and even starred in the occasional role of Nazneen. And though British director Sarah Gavron was why should you even think of becoming an actor,” explains Bollywood endeavor. In “Brick Lane,” based taken with her reading, she took some convincing. “She said, Chatterjee, whose upcoming projects include “Bhopal: A on the Monica Ali novel, she plays Nazneen, a ‘We like you, but you look too young to play a mother of two Prayer for Rain” with Martin Sheen. “So I tried to explain young Bangladeshi woman sent by her family to kids,’” recalls the actress, 28. “Then I told her, ‘Asian women to them that no, very, very sane and intelligent people also London’s East End to marry a man decades look much younger than they are. Their skin doesn’t age and become actors.”

her senior. they don’t get gray hair.’” — Vanessa Lawrence OF SONY PICTURES CLASSICS TIM JENKINS; “BRICK LANE” COURTESY BY PARTY STEVE EICHNER; LONDON PHOTOS BY PARTY NEW YORK