2021 Rip Current Basics and Safety Information Slide Notes
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Directional Dependency and Coastal Framework Geology: Implications for Barrier Island Resilience
Earth Surf. Dynam., 6, 1139–1153, 2018 https://doi.org/10.5194/esurf-6-1139-2018 © Author(s) 2018. This work is distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 License. Directional dependency and coastal framework geology: implications for barrier island resilience Phillipe A. Wernette1,2,a, Chris Houser1, Bradley A. Weymer3, Mark E. Everett4, Michael P. Bishop2, and Bobby Reece4 1Department of Earth and Environmental Sciences, University of Windsor, Windsor, Ontario, N9B 3P4, Canada 2Department of Geography, Texas A&M University, College Station, Texas, 77843, USA 3GEOMAR Helmholtz Centre for Ocean Research Kiel, 24148 Kiel, Germany 4Department of Geology and Geophysics, Texas A&M University, College Station, Texas, 77843, USA anow at: Department of Earth and Environmental Sciences, University of Windsor, 401 Sunset Ave., Windsor, Ontario, N9B 3P4, Canada Correspondence: Phillipe A. Wernette ([email protected]) Received: 9 May 2018 – Discussion started: 15 June 2018 Revised: 18 October 2018 – Accepted: 6 November 2018 – Published: 27 November 2018 Abstract. Barrier island transgression is influenced by the alongshore variation in beach and dune morphol- ogy, which determines the amount of sediment moved landward through wash-over. While several studies have demonstrated how variations in dune morphology affect island response to storms, the reasons for that vari- ation and the implications for island management remain unclear. This paper builds on previous research by demonstrating that paleo-channels in the irregular framework geology can have a directional influence on along- shore beach and dune morphology. The influence of relict paleo-channels on beach and dune morphology on Padre Island National Seashore, Texas, was quantified by isolating the long-range dependence (LRD) parame- ter in autoregressive fractionally integrated moving average (ARFIMA) models, originally developed for stock market economic forecasting. -
Observations of Nearshore Infragravity Waves: Seaward and Shoreward Propagating Components A
JOURNAL OF GEOPHYSICAL RESEARCH, VOL. 107, NO. C8, 3095, 10.1029/2001JC000970, 2002 Observations of nearshore infragravity waves: Seaward and shoreward propagating components A. Sheremet,1 R. T. Guza,2 S. Elgar,3 and T. H. C. Herbers4 Received 14 May 2001; revised 5 December 2001; accepted 20 December 2001; published 6 August 2002. [1] The variation of seaward and shoreward infragravity energy fluxes across the shoaling and surf zones of a gently sloping sandy beach is estimated from field observations and related to forcing by groups of sea and swell, dissipation, and shoreline reflection. Data from collocated pressure and velocity sensors deployed between 1 and 6 m water depth are combined, using the assumption of cross-shore propagation, to decompose the infragravity wave field into shoreward and seaward propagating components. Seaward of the surf zone, shoreward propagating infragravity waves are amplified by nonlinear interactions with groups of sea and swell, and the shoreward infragravity energy flux increases in the onshore direction. In the surf zone, nonlinear phase coupling between infragravity waves and groups of sea and swell decreases, as does the shoreward infragravity energy flux, consistent with the cessation of nonlinear forcing and the increased importance of infragravity wave dissipation. Seaward propagating infragravity waves are not phase coupled to incident wave groups, and their energy levels suggest strong infragravity wave reflection near the shoreline. The cross-shore variation of the seaward energy flux is weaker than that of the shoreward flux, resulting in cross-shore variation of the squared infragravity reflection coefficient (ratio of seaward to shoreward energy flux) between about 0.4 and 1.5. -
Mapping Turbidity Currents Using Seismic Oceanography Title Page Abstract Introduction 1 2 E
Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Ocean Sci. Discuss., 8, 1803–1818, 2011 www.ocean-sci-discuss.net/8/1803/2011/ Ocean Science doi:10.5194/osd-8-1803-2011 Discussions OSD © Author(s) 2011. CC Attribution 3.0 License. 8, 1803–1818, 2011 This discussion paper is/has been under review for the journal Ocean Science (OS). Mapping turbidity Please refer to the corresponding final paper in OS if available. currents using seismic E. A. Vsemirnova and R. W. Hobbs Mapping turbidity currents using seismic oceanography Title Page Abstract Introduction 1 2 E. A. Vsemirnova and R. W. Hobbs Conclusions References 1Geospatial Research Ltd, Department of Earth Sciences, Tables Figures Durham University, Durham DH1 3LE, UK 2Department of Earth Sciences, Durham University, Durham DH1 3LE, UK J I Received: 25 May 2011 – Accepted: 12 August 2011 – Published: 18 August 2011 J I Correspondence to: R. W. Hobbs ([email protected]) Published by Copernicus Publications on behalf of the European Geosciences Union. Back Close Full Screen / Esc Printer-friendly Version Interactive Discussion 1803 Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Discussion Paper | Abstract OSD Using a combination of seismic oceanographic and physical oceanographic data ac- quired across the Faroe-Shetland Channel we present evidence of a turbidity current 8, 1803–1818, 2011 that transports suspended sediment along the western boundary of the Channel. We 5 focus on reflections observed on seismic data close to the sea-bed on the Faroese Mapping turbidity side of the Channel below 900m. Forward modelling based on independent physi- currents using cal oceanographic data show that thermohaline structure does not explain these near seismic sea-bed reflections but they are consistent with optical backscatter data, dry matter concentrations from water samples and from seabed sediment traps. -
Infragravity Wave Energy Partitioning in the Surf Zone in Response to Wind-Sea and Swell Forcing
Journal of Marine Science and Engineering Article Infragravity Wave Energy Partitioning in the Surf Zone in Response to Wind-Sea and Swell Forcing Stephanie Contardo 1,*, Graham Symonds 2, Laura E. Segura 3, Ryan J. Lowe 4 and Jeff E. Hansen 2 1 CSIRO Oceans and Atmosphere, Crawley 6009, Australia 2 Faculty of Science, School of Earth Sciences, The University of Western Australia, Crawley 6009, Australia; [email protected] (G.S.); jeff[email protected] (J.E.H.) 3 Departamento de Física, Universidad Nacional, Heredia 3000, Costa Rica; [email protected] 4 Faculty of Engineering and Mathematical Sciences, Oceans Graduate School, The University of Western Australia, Crawley 6009, Australia; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected] Received: 18 September 2019; Accepted: 23 October 2019; Published: 28 October 2019 Abstract: An alongshore array of pressure sensors and a cross-shore array of current velocity and pressure sensors were deployed on a barred beach in southwestern Australia to estimate the relative response of edge waves and leaky waves to variable incident wind wave conditions. The strong sea 1 breeze cycle at the study site (wind speeds frequently > 10 m s− ) produced diurnal variations in the peak frequency of the incident waves, with wind sea conditions (periods 2 to 8 s) dominating during the peak of the sea breeze and swell (periods 8 to 20 s) dominating during times of low wind. We observed that edge wave modes and their frequency distribution varied with the frequency of the short-wave forcing (swell or wind-sea) and edge waves were more energetic than leaky waves for the duration of the 10-day experiment. -
Climate Change Report for Gulf of the Farallones and Cordell
Chapter 6 Responses in Marine Habitats Sea Level Rise: Intertidal organisms will respond to sea level rise by shifting their distributions to keep pace with rising sea level. It has been suggested that all but the slowest growing organisms will be able to keep pace with rising sea level (Harley et al. 2006) but few studies have thoroughly examined this phenomenon. As in soft sediment systems, the ability of intertidal organisms to migrate will depend on available upland habitat. If these communities are adjacent to steep coastal bluffs it is unclear if they will be able to colonize this habitat. Further, increased erosion and sedimentation may impede their ability to move. Waves: Greater wave activity (see 3.3.2 Waves) suggests that intertidal and subtidal organisms may experience greater physical forces. A number of studies indicate that the strength of organisms does not always scale with their size (Denny et al. 1985; Carrington 1990; Gaylord et al. 1994; Denny and Kitzes 2005; Gaylord et al. 2008), which can lead to selective removal of larger organisms, influencing size structure and species interactions that depend on size. However, the relationship between offshore significant wave height and hydrodynamic force is not simple. Although local wave height inside the surf zone is a good predictor of wave velocity and force (Gaylord 1999, 2000), the relationship between offshore Hs and intertidal force cannot be expressed via a simple linear relationship (Helmuth and Denny 2003). In many cases (89% of sites examined), elevated offshore wave activity increased force up to a point (Hs > 2-2.5 m), after which force did not increase with wave height. -
Part 629 – Glossary of Landform and Geologic Terms
Title 430 – National Soil Survey Handbook Part 629 – Glossary of Landform and Geologic Terms Subpart A – General Information 629.0 Definition and Purpose This glossary provides the NCSS soil survey program, soil scientists, and natural resource specialists with landform, geologic, and related terms and their definitions to— (1) Improve soil landscape description with a standard, single source landform and geologic glossary. (2) Enhance geomorphic content and clarity of soil map unit descriptions by use of accurate, defined terms. (3) Establish consistent geomorphic term usage in soil science and the National Cooperative Soil Survey (NCSS). (4) Provide standard geomorphic definitions for databases and soil survey technical publications. (5) Train soil scientists and related professionals in soils as landscape and geomorphic entities. 629.1 Responsibilities This glossary serves as the official NCSS reference for landform, geologic, and related terms. The staff of the National Soil Survey Center, located in Lincoln, NE, is responsible for maintaining and updating this glossary. Soil Science Division staff and NCSS participants are encouraged to propose additions and changes to the glossary for use in pedon descriptions, soil map unit descriptions, and soil survey publications. The Glossary of Geology (GG, 2005) serves as a major source for many glossary terms. The American Geologic Institute (AGI) granted the USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service (formerly the Soil Conservation Service) permission (in letters dated September 11, 1985, and September 22, 1993) to use existing definitions. Sources of, and modifications to, original definitions are explained immediately below. 629.2 Definitions A. Reference Codes Sources from which definitions were taken, whole or in part, are identified by a code (e.g., GG) following each definition. -
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WaveWave drivendriven sea-levelsea-level anomalyanomaly atat MidwayMidway AtollAtoll RonRon HoekeHoeke CSIROCSIRO SeaSea LevelLevel andand CoastsCoasts JeromeJerome AucanAucan LaboratoireLaboratoire d'Etudesd'Etudes enen GéophysiqueGéophysique etet OcéanographieOcéanographie SpatialeSpatiale (LEGOS),(LEGOS), IRDIRD MarkMark MerrifieldMerrifield SOESTSOEST –– UniversityUniversity ofof HawaiiHawaii Funding:Funding: ••NOAANOAA CRCPCRCP ••JIMARJIMAR –– UniversityUniversity ofof HawaiiHawaii ••AustralianAustralian InstituteInstitute ofof MarineMarine ScienceScience (AIMS)(AIMS) ••CSIROCSIRO SeaSea LevelLevel andand CoastsCoasts ((AusAID)AusAID) photo: Scott Smithers WaveWave set-upset-up atat PacificPacific atollsatolls andand islandsislands “..the power of the breaking waves is utilized to maintain a water level just inside the surf zone about 1.5 ft above sea level.” Munk and Sargent (1948) Adjustment of Bikini Atoll to waves, Transactions, Am. Geo. Union, 29(6), 855-860. Wave set-up may be “as much as 20% of the incident wave height.” Tait, R. J. (1972) Wave Set-Up on Coral Reefs, J. Geophys. Res., 77(12). WaveWave set-upset-up atat PacificPacific atollsatolls andand islandsislands Steep-sloped Continental Shelf: islands/atolls: Wave dissipation Wave dissipation close farther offshore to shore/reef edge Smaller waves Larger waves Larger storm surge Smaller storm surge Graber et al. (2006) Coastal forecasts and storm surge predictions for tropical cyclones: A timely partnership program, Oceanography, 19(1), 130–141. PacificPacific wavewave climateclimate Hoeke et al. (2011) J. Geophys. Res., 116(C4), C04018. WaveWave set-upset-up inundationinundation eventsevents Nov. 28, 1979 Pohnpei Majuro Dec. 8, 2008 Fiji T imes,May 21, 2011 Takuu Dec. 10, 2008 Caldwell,Vitousek, Aucan (2009), Frequency and Duration of Coinciding High Surf and Tides along the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii, 1981-2007, J. -
Estimating Global Damages from Sea Level Rise with the Coastal Impact and Adaptation Model (CIAM)
Estimating Global Damages from Sea Level Rise with the Coastal Impact and Adaptation Model (CIAM) Delavane B. Diazy FEEM Note di Lavoro/Working Paper Series originally presented at European Summer School in Resource and Environmental Economics San Servolo, Venice, Italy July 12, 2014 Abstract The costs of coastal sector impacts from sea level rise (SLR) are an important component of the total projected economic damages of climate change, a major input to decision-making and design of climate policy. Moreover, the ultimate costs to coastal resources will depend strongly on adaptation, society's response to cope with the impacts. This paper presents a new model to assess coastal impacts from SLR, combining global scope with high spatial resolution to fill a gap between very detailed local studies and aggregate global estimates. The Coastal Impact and Adaptation Model (CIAM) determines the optimal strategy for adaptation at the local level, evaluating over 12,000 coastal segments, as described in the DIVA database (Vafeidis et al, 2006), based on their socioeconomic characteristics and the potential impacts of relative sea level rise and uncertain storm surge. An application of CIAM is then presented to demonstrate the model's ability to assess local impacts and direct costs, choose the least-cost adaptation, and estimate global net damages for several probabilistic SLR scenarios (Kopp et al, 2014). CIAM finds that there is large potential for coastal adaptation to reduce the expected impacts of SLR compared to the alternative of no adaptation, lowering global net present costs by a factor of 10 to less than $1.5 trillion over the next two centuries, although this does not include initial transition costs to overcome an under-adapted current state. -
Stratospheric Transport
Journal of the Meteorological Society of Japan, Vol. 80, No. 4B, pp. 793--809, 2002 793 Stratospheric Transport R. Alan PLUMB Department of Earth, Atmospheric and Planetary Sciences, Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Cambridge, MA 02139, USA (Manuscript received 3 July 2001, in revised form 15 February 2002) Abstract Improvements in our understanding of transport processes in the stratosphere have progressed hand in hand with advances in understanding of stratospheric dynamics and with accumulating remote and in situ observations of the distributions of, and relationships between, stratospheric tracers. It is conve- nient to regard the stratosphere as being separated into four regions: the summer hemisphere, the tropics, the wintertime midlatitude ‘‘surf zone’’, and the winter polar vortex. Stratospheric transport is dominated by mean diabatic advection (upwelling in the tropics, downwelling in the surf zone and the vortex) and, especially, by rapid isentropic stirring within the surf zone. These characteristics determine the global-scale distributions of tracers, and their mutual relationships. Despite our much-improved understanding of these processes, many chemical transport models still appear to exhibit significant shortcomings in simulating stratospheric transport, as is evidenced by their tendency to underestimate the age of stratospheric air. 1. Introduction have opposite large-scale gradients (HF has a stratospheric source and tropospheric sink, It has long been recognized that strato- CH a tropospheric source and stratospheric spheric trace gases with sufficiently weak 4 sink); nevertheless, the shapes of their iso- chemical sources and sinks have similar global pleths are very similar, with isopleths bulging distributions, in the sense that their isopleths upward in the tropics and poleward/downward (surfaces of constant mixing ratio) have similar slopes in the extratropics. -
Turbulence in the Swash and Surf Zones: a Review
Coastal Engineering 45 (2002) 129–147 www.elsevier.com/locate/coastaleng Turbulence in the swash and surf zones: a review Sandro Longo a,*, Marco Petti b,1, Inigo J. Losada c,2 aDepartment of Civil Engineering, University of Parma, Parco Area delle Scienze, 181/A, 43100 Parma, Italy bDipartimento di Georisorse e Territorio, Faculty of Engineering, University of Udine, Via del Cotonificio, 114, 33100 Udine, Italy cOcean and Coastal Research Group, Universidad de Cantabria, E.T.S.I.C.C. y P. Av. de los Castros s/n, 39005 Santander, Spain Abstract This paper reviews mainly conceptual models and experimental work, in the field and in the laboratory, dedicated during the last decades to studying turbulence of breaking waves and bores moving in very shallow water and in the swash zone. The phenomena associated with vorticity and turbulence structures measured are summarised, including the measurement techniques and the laboratory generation of breaking waves or of flow fields sharing several characteristics with breaking waves. The effect of air entrapment during breaking is discussed. The limits of the present knowledge, especially in modelling a two- or three-phase system, with air and sediment entrapped at high turbulence level, and perspectives of future research are discussed. D 2002 Elsevier Science B.V. All rights reserved. Keywords: Swash zone; Surf zone; Breaking waves; Turbulence; Length scales; Coastal hydrodynamics 1. Introduction short and long waves, currents, turbulence and vorti- ces may be present. Therefore, the hydrodynamics to The swash zone is defined as the part of the beach be found in the swash zone is largely determined by between the minimum and maximum water levels the boundary conditions imposed by the beach face during wave runup and rundown. -
September 2016 CURRICULUM VITAE KARL F
September 2016 CURRICULUM VITAE KARL F. NORDSTROM Institute of Marine and Coastal Sciences Rutgers - the State University of New Jersey New Brunswick, NJ, 08901-8521 (848) 932-3284, [email protected] Academic Degrees A.B. German, Rutgers University, 1963. M.S. Geography, Rutgers University, 1970. Ph.D. Geography, Rutgers University, 1975. Professional History Rutgers University, New Brunswick, N.J. 7/1/12 to Present – Distinguished Professor, Department of Marine and Coastal Sciences (DMCS). 7/94 to 6/12 - Professor, DMCS. 7/80 to 6/94 - Associate Professor, DMCS. 7/75 to 6/80 - Assistant Professor, Center for Coastal and Environmental Studies. 6/73 to 6/75 - Research Associate, Marine Sciences Center. 2/69 to 6/71 and l/73 to 6/73 – Research/Teaching Assistant, Geography Department. Visiting Positions 3/14 to 7/14 - Visiting Scholar, Dept. of Physics and Earth Science, University of Ferrara, Italy. 5/12 to 6/12 - Visiting Scholar, National Laboratory for Civil Engineering, Lisbon, Portugal. 2/06 to 5/06 and 3/99 to 7/99 - Visiting Scholar, Geography Institute, University of Greifswald, Germany. 2/05 to 5/05 - Visiting Scholar, Dept. of Territorial Studies and Planning, Polytechnic of Turin, Italy. 2/02 - Instructor (short course) Marine Institute (CTTMar), Universidade do Vale do Itajaí, Brazil. 5/98 to 8/98 - Visiting Scholar, Dept. of Geography, University of Western Australia. 5/95 to 7/95 - Visiting Scholar, Dept. of Geography and Soil Science, University of Amsterdam. 5/90 to 7/90 - Visiting Scholar, Geography Institute, University of Kiel, Germany. 9/81 to 12/81 - Visiting Scholar, Geography Dept., University of California, Los Angeles. -
Short Curriculum Vitae
Prof. Virginie K.E. DUVAT UMR LIENSs 7266 - Littoral, Environment and Societies La Rochelle University-CNRS (National Centre for Scientific Research) Institute of Littoral and Environment, 2 rue Olympe de Gouges- 17000 La Rochelle - France Email: [email protected] Tel Office: + 33 5 46 50 76 47 / Mobile: + 33 6 50 81 39 27 SHORT CURRICULUM VITAE 1. Professional experience and position Since 2006 Professor in Coastal Geography, La Rochelle University, La Rochelle, France 1999-2006 Assistant Professor in Coastal Geography, University of La Reunion (south-western Indian Ocean), France 2. Education 2005 Accreditation to supervise research (HDR in French) in Geography, University of Paris IV-Sorbonne, France - Title: Geomorphology and management of coral beaches in south-western Indian Ocean Islands (in French). 1996-1998 PhD in Coastal Geography, University of Reunion Island, France – Title: Coral beaches and islands of the Seychelles Islands: from physical processes to beach and island management (Mahe, Praslin, La Digue and Desroches islands) – award of the French Geographical Society (Paris) for my PhD thesis 3. Fields of expertise 3.1. Thematic areas: è Coastal geomorphology: 1950s-Present changes in the configuration of atoll reef islands and high mountainous islands’ beach-dune systems, including island and shoreline change assessment, impacts of and resilience to tropical cyclones (including marine inundation and river flooding, impacts on shoreline position and on coastal vegetation), interference of human activities with natural processes, island-reef ecosystem interactions – See for example: Duvat et al., 2016; Testut, Duvat et al., 2016; Duvat and Pillet, 2017; Duvat et al., 2017; Duvat et al., 2017; Collin, Duvat et al., 2021.