ATHENS Runningsubhead •• History 95 ATHENS & ATTICA

Persia and returned with Darius 20 years A t h e n s & A t t i c a ATHENS ΑΘΗΝΑ later, only to be defeated at the Battle of Marathon. HISTORY Αθήνα & Aττική Early History Athens’ Golden Age ATHENS & ATTICA ATHENS & ATTICA The early history of Athens is inextricably After Athens finally repulsed the Persian interwoven with mythology, making it im- Empire at the battles of Salamis and Plataea (again, with the help of Sparta), its power The Greek capital is undergoing a radical period of urban renewal that did not stop with possible to disentangle fact from fiction. What is known is that the hill-top site of knew no bounds. the 2004 Olympics. The magnificent Acropolis, crowned by the iconic Parthenon temple, In 477 BC Athens established a confederacy the Acropolis, with two abundant springs, on the sacred island of Delos and demanded rises above the city, watching the sprawling modern metropolis evolve. Athens is now a drew some of Greece’s earliest Neolithic tributes from the surrounding islands to pro- conspicuously wealthier, more sophisticated cosmopolitan city. The shift is evident in a settlers. When a peaceful agricultural ex- tect them from the Persians. It was little more istence gave way to the war-orientated gradual gentrification and the new art and leisure precincts around town, and in the lifestyles than a standover racket because the Persians city-states, the Acropolis provided an ideal of the hedonistic, trend-conscious Athenians. Stylish new restaurants, shops and revamped were no longer much of a threat. The treasury defensive position. hotels continue to open. was moved to Athens in 461 BC and Pericles By 1400 BC the Acropolis had become (ruler from 461 to 429 BC) used the money Perhaps the most significant change is in the historic centre, virtually unrecognisable since a powerful Mycenaean city. It survived to transform the city. This period has become the Dorian assault in 1200 BC but didn’t cars were banished, with most significant ancient sites linked in what has become Europe’s known as Athens’ golden age, the pinnacle of escape the dark age that enveloped Greece longest and arguably most stunning pedestrian promenade. This huge archaeological park the classical era. for the next 400 years. Little is known of Most of the monuments on the Acropolis has reconciled past and present, with the city’s cultural and social life once again taking this period. today date from Athens’ golden age. Drama place around the ancient monuments and surrounding neighbourhoods. Athens remains a After its emergence from the dark age in and literature flourished in the form of the city of contradictions, as frustrating as it is seductive. It is the oldest city in Europe, yet still the 8th century BC, a period of peace fol- tragedies written by such luminaries as lowed, during which Athens became the ar- Aeschylus, Sophocles and Euripides. The in a state of transition. It’s one of Europe’s safest and liveliest cities – a heady mix of grunge tistic centre of Greece, excelling in ceramics. and grace with an undeniable urban soul. sculptors Pheidias and Myron and the histo- The geometric vase designs from the dark rians Herodotus, Thucydides and Xenophon age evolved into a narrative style, depicting also lived during this time. Most visitors will leave impressed with its vibrant street life and relaxed lifestyle, where scenes from everyday life and mythology people take time out for endless coffees and evening strolls, dine out until late and enjoy the (known as the Proto-Attic style). Rivalry with Sparta city’s nightlife, long after the rest of Europe has gone to bed. Athenians are the first to debate By the 6th century BC, Athens was ruled Sparta did not sit back and let Athens revel in and lament their city’s many shortcomings – but most wouldn’t live anywhere else. by aristocrats and generals. Labourers and its new-found glory. The jockeying for power peasants had no say in the functioning of between the two led to the Peloponnesian the city until the reform3-oriented Solon Wars (see p34 ) in 431 BC, which dragged became arhon (chief magistrate) in 594 BC on until 404 BC, when Sparta gained the and improved the lot of the poor. Regarded upper hand. Athens was never to return to HIGHLIGHTS as the harbinger of Athenian democracy, Solon’s most significant reforms were the Ancient Splendour Glimpsing the awe-inspiring Acropolis rising above the city for the first annulment of debts and the implementa- ATHENA & THE OLIVE TREE time ( p111 ) tion of trial by jury. Continuing unrest over According to mythology, Kekrops, a Phoe- Historic Trails Strolling through ancient Athens along the grand pedestrian promenade (p115 ) the reforms created the pretext for the tyrant nician, came to Attica and founded a city Feast for the Eyes Dining in Thisio or Plaka with a view of the Peisistratos, formerly head of the military, to on a huge rock near the sea. The gods of floodlit Acropolis ( p137 ) seize power in 560 BC. Olympus proclaimed that the city should Peisistratos built up a formidable navy Greek Treasures Viewing the superb collec- be named after the deity who could pro- National and extended the boundaries of Athenian tion of antiquities at the National Archaeo- Archaeological duce the most valuable legacy for mortals. Museum influence on land. A patron of the arts, he logical Museum (p120 ) Plaka Athena (goddess of wisdom) produced an Ancient Athens inaugurated the Festival of the Great Diony- olive tree, symbol of peace and prosper- Ancient Stage Catching an Athens Festival Acropolis Odeon of sia, the precursor of Attic drama, and com- ity. Poseidon (god of the sea) struck a rock show at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus Herodes Atticus missioned many splendid sacred and secular with his trident and a horse sprang forth, ( p130 ) buildings – most of which were destroyed symbolising the qualities of strength and Magic Nights Visiting lively bars, glamorous beach by the Persians. fortitude. The gods judged that Athena’s bars or moonlight cinema (p141 ) Peisistratos was succeeded by his tyrant gift would better serve the citizens of Ath- son Hippias in 528 BC. Athens managed Take Time Out Watching the sun set at Cape Sounion (p155 ) Cape Sounion ens than the arts of war personified by to rid itself of this oppressor in 510 BC Poseidon’s gift. POPULATION: ATHENS 3.4 MILLION; ATTICA 4 MILLION AREA : 3808 SQ KM with the help of Sparta. Hippias went to 96 RUNNINGHEADATHENS •• History •• Runningsubhead www.lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.comlonelyplanet.com RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS •• RunningSubhead •• Orientation 97 ATHENS & ATTICA

its former glory. The 4th century BC did, gardens and squares. Sadly, many of these Post-Olympics Athens SYNTAGMA ΣΥΝΤΑΓΜΑ however, produce three of the West’s greatest buildings have been demolished. The best After a frantic, suspense-filled period of con- Plateia Syntagma (Constitution) is the heart orators and philosophers: Socrates, Plato and surviving examples are on Leoforos Vasilis- struction and doomsaying, Athens surprised of modern Athens, dominated by the Parlia- Aristotle. The degeneracy into which Athens sis Sofias and Panepistimiou. much of the world by pulling off a successful ment and surrounded by major hotels, the had fallen was perhaps epitomised by the ig- Olympic Games in 2004. Billions of euros central business district, shopping precincts ATHENS & ATTICA ATHENS & ATTICA nominious death sentence passed on Socrates The 20th Century were poured into the city’s redevelopment, and the National Gardens. With pleasant for the crime of corrupting the young with from transport infrastructure and stadiums to shady benches, central fountain, cafés and his speeches. Athens grew steadily throughout the latter pedestrian zones around the historic centre. the Syntagma metro station nearby, it is a In 338 BC, along with the other city-states half of the 19th and early 20th centuries, and Major beautification projects removed ugly popular meeting place. Syntagma is the main of Greece, Athens was conquered by Philip II enjoyed a brief heyday as the ‘Paris of the billboards, paved footpaths, redeveloped the focal point for public rallies and civic events, of Macedon. After Philip’s assassination, his eastern Mediterranean’. This ended abruptly city’s parks and squares, and mass-planted while the changing of the guard ceremony son Alexander the Great, a cultured young in 1923 with the Treaty of Lausanne, which trees and plants. The Olympics legacy is that outside the Parliament is one of the city’s most man, favoured Athens over other city-states. resulted in nearly a million refugees from Athens today is a radically different city – a popular spectacles. After Alexander’s untimely death, Athens Turkey descending on Athens – an event more attractive, cleaner, greener and more passed in quick succession through the hands that marked the beginning of its much- efficient capital, though it is still a work in P L A K A ΠΛΑΚΑ of several of his generals. maligned concrete sprawl. progress and still battling with basic infra- South of Syntagma, Plaka is the old Turkish Athens suffered appallingly during the structure issues like waste management. quarter and virtually all that existed when Roman & Byzantine Rule German occupation of WWII, during which Athens was declared capital of independent Athens continued to be a major seat of learn- time more Athenians were killed by starva- ORIENTATION Greece. Its paved, narrow streets nestle into ing under Roman rule, when many wealthy tion than by the enemy. This suffering was City Centre the northeastern slope of the Acropolis and young Romans attended Athens’ schools. perpetuated in the civil war that followed. Athens is a sprawling urban mass but the his- pass by many of the city’s ancient sites. Anybody who was anybody in Rome at the The industrialisation programme launched toric centre and most major sites are located Plaka is touristy in the extreme, but it is time spoke Greek. The Roman emperors, par- during the 1950s, with the help of US aid, within walking distance of Plateia Syntagma- still the most attractive and atmospheric part ticularly Hadrian, graced Athens with many brought another population boom as peo- tos (Syntagma Sq). of Athens. The main streets, Kydathineon grand buildings. ple from the islands and mainland villages The city’s two major landmarks, the and Adrianou, are packed solid with resta- After the subdivision of the Roman Em- moved to Athens in search of work. Acropolis and Lykavittos Hill, can be seen urants and souvenir shops, but elsewhere its pire into east and west, Athens remained an The colonels’ junta (1967–74), with char- from just about anywhere and are useful virtually car-free streets, with restored neo- important cultural and intellectual centre acteristic insensitivity, tore down many of for getting one’s bearings. Major streets classical mansions, can be a peaceful oasis. until Emperor Justinian closed its schools of the old Turkish houses of Plaka and the are generally clearly signposted in Greek The quaint labyrinthine Anafiotika quarter philosophy in 529. The city declined into an neoclassical buildings of King Otho’s time. and English. above Plaka is a narrow maze of whitewashed, outpost of the Byzantine Empire. But the junta failed to tackle the chronic Downtown Athens is a city of distinct island-style houses built by stonemasons from Between 1200 and 1450, Athens was con- infrastructure problems resulting from such neighbourhoods, each with its own individual the island of Anafi, brought in to build the tinually invaded – by the Franks, Catalans, rapid and unplanned growth. The elected character. king’s palace. Florentines and Venetians, all opportunists governments that followed in the late 1970s preoccupied with grabbing principalities from and 1980s didn’t do much better, and by the MONASTIRAKI ΜΟΝΑΣΤΗΡΑΚΙ the crumbling Byzantine Empire. end of the 1980s, the city had developed a ATHENS IN PRINT Centred on busy Plateia Monastirakiou (Mo- sorry reputation as one of the most traffic Athens (2004), by Michael Llewellyn Smith, nastiraki Sq), the area just west of Syntagma Ottoman Rule & Independence clogged and polluted in Europe. is an excellent cultural and literary his- is the city’s somewhat grungier but nonethe- Athens was captured by the Turks in 1456, The 1990s were a turning point, with pol- tory, while John Freely’s Strolling Through less atmospheric market district. The famous and nearly 400 years of Ottoman rule fol- iticians finally accepting the need for radi- Athens (2004) explores the city through Athens flea market (p144 ) is southwest of the lowed. The Acropolis became the home of cal solutions. Inspired initially by the failed walks around Athens. In the novel Eu- square, while the central market ( p136 ) is to the Turkish governor, the Parthenon was con- bid to stage the 1996 Olympics, authorities ridice Street (2004), anthropologist Sofka the north on Athinas. verted into a mosque, and the Erechtheion embarked on an ambitious programme to Zinovieff makes some interesting obser- was used as a harem. drag the city into the 21st century. The 2004 vations of contemporary Athens society, PSYRRI ΨΥΡΡΗ In the early stages of the War of Inde- Olympics deadline fast-tracked projects that albeit through the privileged perspective The once clapped-out neighbourhood of pendence (1821–27), fierce fighting broke had been on the drawing board for years of a diplomat’s wife moving to Greece. Psyrri (psee-ree), just north of Monastiraki, out in the streets of Athens, with the city and forced many more changes across the Other worthy publications include Athens still looks pretty grungy from the outside, changing hands several times between Turks public and private sectors. Key elements by Neighbourhood (2001), written by local but the ‘Soho’ of Athens is brimming with and Greek liberators. In 1834 Athens super- were a major expansion of the road and un- resident Diane Shugart, and Patricia Stora- stylish restaurants, bars, theatres and hip art seded Nafplio as the capital of independent derground metro network, and the construc- ce’s popular novel Dinner With Persephone galleries. The slick warehouse conversions and Greece and King Otho set about transform- tion of a new international airport. (1996), written during a year in Athens. For restored neoclassical houses compete with ing the sparsely populated, war-scarred town As Athens absorbed more than 600,000 a glimpse into Athens, underbelly, try The a hotchpotch of stores, bakeries, workshops into something worthy of a capital. Bavarian migrants, legal and illegal, the city’s social Late Night News (2004) for crime fiction by and dilapidated buildings, giving the area an architects created a city of imposing neoclas- fabric was also changing, presenting a new Petros Markaris. interesting edge. Psyrri comes alive after dusk sical buildings, tree-lined boulevards, flower set of challenges. and it is the place to go to hear live Greek 98 RUNNINGHEADATHENS •• Orientation •• Runningsubhead www.lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.comlonelyplanet.com RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS •• RunningSubhead •• Information 99 ATHENS & ATTICA

of an emerging ethnic district, with an Asian neighbourhood with interesting music clubs, ATHENS IN… quarter and several Bangladeshi shops in the cafés and restaurants. streets behind Omonia and west of Plateia Two Days Eleftherias (Koumoundourou). Some of the Outer Athens First stop is the Acropolis (p111 ), then wind your way down to the Ancient Agora (p116 ) and clapped-out apartment blocks are now hostels GLYFADA ΓΛΥΦΑ Δ Α

ATHENS & ATTICA ATHENS & ATTICA the Plaka district, where its Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman pasts coexist with modern city life. and makeshift mosques for the city’s increas- Once Attica’s principal beach-resort town, Have a late lunch in a Plaka taverna (p137 ). In the late afternoon take a long walk around the ing refugee and illegal-immigrant popula- these days Glyfada (off Map p100 ), 12km Acropolis promenade, starting at the Temple of Olympian Zeus ( p118 ), then around to Filopap- tion. It makes an interesting backdrop for the southeast of Athens, is a chic seaside sub- pou Hill (p124 ) and Thisio, and end the evening with dinner at a restaurant with a view of the trendy art galleries and boutique hotels that urb popular with ex-pats. In summer, half Parthenon. On day two, watch the changing of the guard (p125 ) at Syntagma before heading have sprouted in the area. of Athens descends on Glyfada, drawn by to the National Archaeological Museum ( p120 ) for the morning and/or the Benaki Museum The area to the northwest of Plateia Omo- its beaches, bars and restaurants – and sea ( p121 ). Spend the afternoon exploring downtown Athens. Try to catch a show at the Odeon of nias (Omonia Sq) probably rates as the slea- breezes. Glyfada marks the beginning of a Herodes Atticus ( p130 ), one of the world’s most historic venues, or head to the Psyrri or Gazi ziest part of Athens, particularly the streets stretch of coastline known as the Apollo neighbourhoods for dinner and nightlife. around Plateia Vathis – notorious for prosti- Coast, which has a string of fine beaches run- tutes and drug addicts. ning south to Cape Sounion. Four Days If you’ve got a couple more days, you can add the following activities to your Athens itinerary. EXARHIA ΕΞΑΡΧΕΙΑ KIFISIA ΚΗΦΙΣΙΑ On the third day, walk through the gardens to the old Olympic stadium, then head to the Just south of the National Archaeological Mu- Leafy Kifisia (off Map p100 ) was once a cool Byzantine & Christian Museum (p121 ) or Goulandris Museum of Cycladic & Ancient Greek seum is the Athens Polytechnio (Technical northern retreat where rich Athenians had Art (p121 ) before lunch and some shopping in Kolonaki (p143 ). Take a trip to Cape Sounion in University), the tertiary institution with a long their villas. The rich and famous still monopo- the afternoon to see the Temple of Poseidon ( p155 ) at sunset or go to the lovely Mikrolimano tradition of radical thinking and alternative lise what is now essentially an elite suburb. Its harbour in Piraeus (p154 ) for dinner, and then get a taste of summer nightlife at one of Athens’ culture – it led the infamous student sit-in of lovely tree-lined streets, mansions and gar- beach bars. 1973, in opposition of the junta. dens couldn’t be further from the hustle and On the fourth day, go to Monastiraki’s flea market ( p144 ) for some last-minute souvenirs, Squashed between the Polytechnio and bustle of downtown Athens. Kifisia has some then have lunch in a traditional taverna in the central market ( p136 ). Take the teleferik (funicular Strefi Hill is the rather bohemian residential of the city’s best shopping, fine restaurants railway) to the peak of Lykavittos Hill ( p124) for a panoramic view of Athens, then catch a movie area of Exarhia, popular with students, artists and some of the most chic hotels in town. It by moonlight at Aigli (p141 ), Athens’ oldest outdoor cinema. and intellectuals. It’s a lively neighbourhood is the last stop on the metro Line 1. with graffiti-covered walls and lots of good- value restaurants, cafés, bars and alternative Maps music at one of the tavernas, particularly on buildings now house museums, embassies book, comic, music and clothing stores. The free map handed out by the tourist office Sunday afternoon. and government offices. is fine for central Athens. To seriously explore GAZI ΓΚΑΖΙ beyond the centre, buy a copy of the Athens- THISIO ΘΗΣΕΙΟ MAKRYGIANNI & KOUKAKI ΑΚΡΥΓΙΑΝΝΗ The revival of the Gazi neighbourhood started Piraeus street directory (in Greek), available at The areas west of Monastiraki underwent a & ΚΟΥΚΑΚΙ with the transformation of the historic gasworks most bookshops and stationery stores. remarkable transformation during the 1990s. Despite their proximity to the historic cen- into a cultural centre. The red chimney stacks The pedestrianisation of the area around the tre, the quiet neighbourhoods south of the now brightly illuminate the surrounding streets, INFORMATION Acropolis has made the former traffic-clogged, Acropolis are refreshingly untouristy. which have sprouted trendy restaurants and Bookshops noisy thoroughfare of Apostolou Pavlou one Makrygianni, a trendy residential suburb bars. It has also become the most gay-friendly Compendium (Map pp102-3 ; %210 322 1248; of the most serene parts of the city. It’s now between Filopappou Hill and Leoforos Syn- neighbourhood of Athens, with a host of gay Navarhou Nikodimou 5 & Nikis, Plaka) Specialises in books a lovely green zone and a thriving area full of grou Andrea, has a few upmarket hotels and bars and clubs. The area is still gritty, though the in English, and has a popular secondhand section. bars and cafés. restaurants, and is also home to one of the urban renewal is spreading to nearby Metax- Eleftheroudakis Syntagma (Map pp104-5 ; %210 331 city’s gay precincts (between Stratigou Makry- ourghio and along busy Pireos, which now 4180; Panepistimiou 17); Plaka (Map pp102-3 ; %210 KOLONAKI ΚΟΛΩΝΑΚΙ giannji and Leoforos Syngrou Andrea; see boasts one of the fanciest restaurants in Athens 322 9388; Nikis 20) The seven-floor Panepistimiou store is The posh residential district of Kolonaki, east p139 ). South of Makrygianni is the low-key (see Varoulko, p139 ), a boutique hotel and the the biggest bookshop in Athens, with a level dedicated to of Syntagma, is undeniably chic. Tucked be- residential district of Koukaki, which runs Benaki Museum’s new wing (p121 ). English-language books. neath Lykavittos Hill, it has long been the along the foothills of the Acropolis and has Road Editions (Map pp104-5 ; %210 361 3242; www favoured address of Athenian socialites. Its some excellent neighbourhood tavernas. METS & PANGRATI ΜΕΤΣ & ΠΑΓΚΡΑΤΙ .road.gr; Solonos 71, Exarhia) A wide range of travel streets are full of classy boutiques and pri- To the east of the Acropolis, opposite the Zap- literature and all the Road Editions maps. vate art galleries, as well as dozens of up- AROUND OMONIA ΟΜΟΝΟΙΑ peio Gardens, is the district of Mets, which is market cafés and trendy restaurants. Plateia Omonia, north of Syntagma, was once one of characterised by some delightful old Turkish Emergency Kolonakiou (Kolonaki Sq) and the cafés along the city’s smarter areas, but despite ongoing houses. Mets runs behind the imposing old Athens Central Police Station (Map pp106-7 ; %210 Milioni are prime positions for people-watch- efforts to tart it up, it is still seedy. The square Olympic Stadium, built into Ardettos Hill. 770 5711/17; Leoforos Alexandras 173, Ambelokipi) ing and fashion victim–spotting. itself is cut off by traffic and has become a Leoforos Vasileos Konstantinou leads to the ELPA Road Assistance (%10400) Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias is one of Ath- popular meeting point for the city’s undesir- National Art Gallery ( p122), while east of ens’ most imposing streets. Its neoclassical able elements. South of the square is the hub Mets is Pangrati, another pleasant residential (Continued on page 109)

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INFORMATION Turkish Embassy...... Scoutway...... Japanese Embassy...... Albanian Embassy...... eba otngi mas. F3 Serbian &MontenegrinEmbassy.. US Embassy...... South AfricanEmbassy...... New ZealandEmbassy...... Italian Embassy...... German Embassy...... French Embassy...... Cypriot Embassy...... Canadian Embassy...... Australian Embassy...... Athens CentralPoliceStation...... Aliens Bureau...... (see2)

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SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Periscope Hotel...... Museum oftheHistory C3 Goulandris MuseumofCycladic Chapel ofAgiosGiorgios...... St GeorgeLycabettus Hotel...... Hilton...... War Museum...... GreekCostume...... Lykavittos Hill...... Hellenic-American Union...... &AncientGreekArt...... Museum...... Benaki Museum...... National ArtGallery...... Byzantine &Christian t Areteou o r Semelis a u s r p i a A a

d t s h Tsoha An Tsoha

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Drakou Neri K B P u Papatsoni a Dikearhou B e o l o N Koryzi rr a i t e ev e A Fotiadou s g ou t n od a Liakou r p n i o r Donda i Nezer Hr Glafkou r g M R i Th y a Ev u u M T p u Ss o o o a g a o e r i a Gorgiou v r r t r f r a v k ra Karatza k 7 Sp s lg o t o 19 e a Aristoniu o S u Stratigou Kondouli o u s o H V lo Nakou o s 23 Diamandopoulou d u Fotakou Falirou n M 1 Kallirroïs eo Malamou Athens Centre Gioni ol o im kou u n T vg s so kini s E u o o o Alsos u u Dikeou Plateia e in o Stathogianni a ar g r s Kok lg on Longinou o M it Gargarettas Stratigou u L u L r Timoleondos oDefner a a Kondouli Kallirr Theofilopoulou V z 11 h Diliados M Efpompou Mavro eo a Plateia 17 Ambati n Z ois a u Ag. Pandeleimonos r olio g u kaKarea u et si lo no a M a u ia t vounioti r o on a N e it p iv r i vo Razikotzi Tr a Argyriou u n e K o Sismani e k i Veikou l h s u Iras ra F m o m a a Botsari p P iv s Alkimou 3 T ko Theokritou o o 3 Tousa a B A Plateia u u r o n L O it t s d I e Goufie im a n Kynosargous rlof i o D ri m g Vri B f is o N l l t a e siidos Io o Agl V sa t Irakleous h s aonikis V i i i o ri Syngrou-Fix d y u za T o o A l n u u i p a d s Theokritou T o

a 200m 0.1miles 0 0 io Fotomaray ll idos g m o m u f d Zefx V Dexileo H r o e 12 i r Pytheou r s o o Koukaki to u n INFORMATION Herodion...... u 10 C1 i drea u s n n A a TouristSehou D Police...... 1 B2 Hotel Tony...... D s 11 A3 M e Zini s i r ï n sou e a grou Marble House Pension...... 12 B3 On the Road...... Kel n 18 F1 2 n o 26 rro e s Z li Lahouri a SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Philippos Hotel...... t 13 C2 Small Music Theatre...... k 19 B2 B r Metagenous r n o Pandopoulou a a Kal t Ilioupoleos M s Evdohou Theonos t t Athens' Firsta Cemetery...... 2 F4 o Vitrine...... o 20 F1 o d Leof Sy r Athens' r O i u u e tou First a GO Tours...... M 3 D2 EATING Menonos s s u a O so rk Cemetery lymbiou t Vry Key Tours...... o 4 D2 Strofi...... 14 B1 TRANSPORT u u ro Falirou d Monument of Filoppapos...... is 5 A2 pandrou Avis...... iou 21 D1 n n Ter Yvr Hatzipetrou Meindani A e M th DRINKING Budget...... 22 D1 s y da yri 4 SLEEPING re s Granazi...... 15 D2 Europcar...... 23 C2 4 A Kla V o ou u n n Arg etr Timoxenou Sostratou m u o o Fr o d Acropolis View...... o 6 B1 Lamda Ge Club...... 16 D2 Hertz...... 24 D1 p i t s a s i Anagnosti rou Ekateou Angylis Aglavrou n ry th r odo t o e Roikou z a e Art Gallery Hotel...... d 7TB2h Motorent...... 25 C2 i h n A Pnytagora D A T o o u e Arkesilaou r Athens Backpackers...... Hatz 8 D1 ENTERTAINMENT Olympic Airlines...... 26 B4 m s h t v T e ro Hera Hotel...... 9 C2 Half Note Jazz Club...... 17 E3 Sixt...... m 27 D2 L s y i o s o Kazantzi imihali im u n Sikelias a o h s ia

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ATHENS & ATTICA ATTICA & ATHENS ATHENS & ATTICA 111 Get here as early as possible, or go late in as early as possible, or go late Get here After all the buildings on the Acropolis the Acropolis all the buildings on After upon them during the Ravages inflicted menace is acid rain, which The most recent The Acropolis admission includes entry to The Acropolis admission HISTORY HISTORY inhabited The Acropolis (high city) was first built were temples in Neolithic times. The first to the Mycenaean era in homage during the on the Acropolis lived People Athena. goddess 6th century BC,until the late but in 510 BC that it should be the Delphic oracle declared the gods. of the province on to ashes by the Persians reduced were Salamis (480 BC),Battle of the the eve of set about his ambitious rebuilding Pericles transformed the Acropo- He programme. has come which temples, lis into a city of classical of as the zenith to be regarded Greek achievement. by occupation, pilfering foreign of years renovations inept archaeologists, foreign footsteps following Independence, visitors’ on their toll all taken have and earthquakes the surviving blow monuments. The worst attacked was in 1687 when the Venetians on the Acropo- the Turks and opened fire lis, causing an explosion in the Parthenon, gunpowder. storing the Turks were where for two days, dam- blazed fire The resulting buildings. the aging all is caused by industrial pollution and traffic marble the very is dissolving fumes, which built. Major the monuments are which of path that is a continuation of Dioskouron. Dioskouron. of is a continuation path that along Dionys- can walk the south, you From the to the path just beyond iou Areopagitou to the main Atticus to get Herodes Odeon of you can go throughentrance or the Thea- near the Akropoli Dionysos entrance of tre metro station, up from and wind your way large a backpack or Anyone carrying there. enter camera bags) can only bag (including you must leave where from the main entrance, the cloakroom. your bags at crowded. incredibly as it gets the afternoon, Wear shoes soles because with good the paths uneven and slippery. The are around the site to people in Acropolis is now accessible lift rising vertically with a cage wheelchairs, People northern side. up the rock face on the needing at the assistance present should main entrance. ). p117 text, (seeother sites boxed 100), insist the % 210 321 0219; adult/con- % ; •• Sights ATHENS 8am-7pm Apr-Oct, 8am-5pm Nov-Mar; (Map p112 (Map

h Acropolis is the most important in the ancient site ) In extreme cases, drivers have accelerated accelerated have cases, drivers In extreme Inspiring as these monuments are, they are they are Inspiring as these monuments are, several to the site. approaches are There The best way to protect yourself is to record yourself is to record The best way to protect The Acropolis above the city brilliantly illuminated. The sud- illuminated. the city brilliantly above this magnificent sightden glimpse cannot of your spirits. fail to lift city. Pericles Pericles’ of but faded remnants no expense – only the best materials, spared good and artists were sculptors architects, to the cult of enough for a city dedicated colos- The city was a showcase of Athena. gar- and of coloured, sal buildings, lavishly of bronze, others gantuan statues, some of with with gold and encrusted marble plated precious stones. from Plaka is along the The main approach better off finding another taxi and getting the off another taxi finding better and getting the tourist them to details to report driver’s at the port the drivers avoid At Piraeus, police. exit asking if you need a taxi to – it’s better further away. hail one off the street them to night (tariff rate or switch meters 2 lightsthe day. Some will also up) during quote. add their tip to the price they often for airport pick-ups Check the extra charges set and must be displayed are and tolls, which every taxi. in – the taxi’s ask for a receipt and number plates and most one to provide obligated they are installed machines electronic receipt have (though work). If you do have many do not call the police ( a dispute, local police station you to the takes driver and taxi’s the driver to sort it out, or take them to the number and report registration tourist police. SIGHTS The cession €12/6; w Athens, visible from it stands sentinel over within the city. Its monu- almost everywhere in the marble gleam white Pentelic ments of on a honey midday sun and gradually take hue as the sun sinks, while at night they hover www.lonelyplanet.com at Some drivers Piraeus. of the port nals and with the meter to bother these don’t like ranks get they think they can whatever and demand you if you insist to take and refuse away with – set a Only negotiate fare meter. on using the the cost, but you are some idea of if you have Western world. Crowned by the Parthenon, world. Crowned by the Parthenon, Western , adulterated drinks , adulterated www.lonelyplanet.com ‘bombes’ Most (but not all) rip-offs involve taxis taxis involve Most (but not all) rip-offs still a bit of a toss-up whether you get polite, polite, get a toss-up whether you still a bit of efficient service and honest the nasty or one of ones that the friendly ones. Beware, it’s often offenders. worst the are night at up late from the taxi ranks at picked the airport, the train stations, the bus termi- Some bars and clubs in Athens serveSome bars what are locally known as illegal im- with cheap been diluted that have brand-name spirits. Theseports resembling for worse very you feeling drinks can leave the risk wear the next day. One way to avoid is to drink beer drinks that are and alcoholic that you ask for a drink with bottled, or ensure your brand. or name taste, a distinctive Taxi Drivers an awful reputation have Athenian taxi drivers undeservedand it is certainly not entirely – horror will have most locals and tourists alike the The standards of rip-off stories to report. have manners city’s taxis and their driver’s However, it is dramatically overall. improved rivals, who they take back to the agency, where where back to the agency, rivals, who they take them into buying slick salespeople pressure is There packages. overpriced outrageously you will always be no need to buy a package; deal yourself when a better able to negotiate If you are your choice. to the island of you get full, select will be a worried that everywhere this guide and make of place from the pages own booking. your Slippery Surfaces and other sur- Athens’ pavements of Many marble and be- made of faces underfoot are slippery when wet, so tread come incredibly the rain. caught in if you are carefully Spiked Drinks spread. The scam involves taxi drivers picking picking taxi drivers scam involves The spread. them up late-night and persuading arrivals – even want to go to is full they that the hotel will a booking. The taxi driver if they have announce that it’s hotel, to phone the pretend to to speak Ask an alternative. full and suggest yourself,going or simply insist on the hotel to go. you want where TRAVEL AGENTS the Plaka/Syntagma in area agents Some travel to packages ‘cheap’ employ touts to promote the islands. These touts hang out at the bus new ar- to find naive and metro stops hoping

9am-6pm h 24hr) General tourist h 171; % ( 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun); booklet. (Greek National Tourist(Greek Map Organisation; 210 331 0392; www.gnto.gr; Amalias 26a, 210 331 0392; www.gnto.gr; 210 353 0445-7; Arrivals Hall; h % % ( ATHENS •• Dangers & Annoyances Annoyances & Dangers •• ATHENS

Syntagma

One scam runs something like this: friendly One scam runs something like

information and emergency help. information and 110 are another problem, though another problem, it’s not wide- are Taxi drivers working in league with some of working in league with some of drivers Taxi around Omonia hotels C-class the overpriced present them with outrageous bills. outrageous them with present TAXI TOUTS and the atmosphere turns threatening. Other turns threatening. and the atmosphere sex and males with talk of intoxicated lure bars titutes, but the traveller is left to pay an exor- but the traveller titutes, is when the smiles disappearbitant bill, which conman disappears. The women are not pros- The women are conman disappears. Greek then reveals that he, too, is from out then reveals Greek a cousin town or does old ‘Ah, I have the of they go to in Australia’ routine and suggests a bar for a drink. Before they know it women and the ordered drinks are appear and more Greek approaches solo male traveller and asks solo male traveller approaches Greek he is from; friendly for the time or where erate around central Athens, particularly particularly around central Athens, erate around Syntagma. Many unsuspecting travellers have been been have unsuspecting travellers Many that op- in by the various bar scams taken Scams Scams BAR SCAMS and the Monastiraki flea market. and the Monastiraki ets are the metro system and the crowded and the crowded the metro system ets are around Omonia, particularly Athinas, streets Pickpockets Pickpockets hunting grounds for pickpock- The favourite remains very rare, but travellers should be should be but travellers rare, very remains here. alert to the traps listed in all major cities but is considered one of the one of cities but is considered in all major crime Violent street capitals safest in Europe. DANGERS & ANNOYANCES the problems found of Athens has its fair share Tourist police

EOT Tourist Information also handy and cafés will normally let you use cafés will normally let also handy and bet. safe also a are Big hotels their facilities. are 24-hour portable, 24-hour self-cleaningare toilets pay outlets are Fast-food centre. around the (€0.50) pp102-3 ; Syntagma; Airport Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun) Has a handy free map map 10am-3pm Sat & Sun) Has a handy free Mon-Fri, timetables and public transportof Athens, weekly ferry copy of the glossy a free information. You can also pick up Attica Athens & ATHENS & ATTICA ATTICA & ATHENS ATHENS & ATTICA

113 and on , promachos ( (giants) means ‘virgin’s apart- means ‘virgin’s gigantions is the monument that more more is the monument that Parthenon statue of Athena Promachos Parthenon Built on the highest part of the Acropolis, Built on the highest of part side depicted The metopes on the eastern The temple consisted of eight Doric fluted of consisted The temple than any other epitomises the glory of an- than any other epitomises the glory of cient Greece. ever Doric temple ment’. This is the largest and the only one built in Greece, completed wooden roof) (apart from its completely of Pentelic marble. dual purpose had a – to house the Parthenon Athena commissioned by statue of the great and to serve It as the new treasury. Pericles, at least four earlier tem- of was built on the site It was Athena. of to the worship ples dedicated designed by Ictinus and Callicrates, under the surveillance be the pre-eminent to Pheidias, of the Acropolis. Building began monument of in 447 BC in time for the and was completed 438 BC. of Festival Panathenaic Great To side. columns at either end and 17 on each ingeniously form, its lines were perfect achieve curved an optical illusion – the foun- to create and the columns slightly concave dations are both look straight. to make slightly convex are Supervised Ago- the sculptors by Pheidias, on the pedi- racritos and Alcamenes worked the frieze sectionsments and the sculpted of and brightly coloured were (metopes), which 92 metopes, 44 statues and were gilded. There way around. went all the a frieze, which Athenians fighting side they showed Theseusthe western leading was carefully reconstructed between 1836 between 1836 reconstructed was carefully later 50 years apart taken but was and 1842, was crumbling. because platform the PROMACHOS OF ATHENA STATUE Way ahead along the Panathenaic Continuing you will see, of to your left, the foundations pedestalsfor the statues once lined the that 9m- one that held Pheidias’ path, including high Symbolising Athenian means ‘champion’). the helmeted invincibility against the Persians, and a held a shield in her left hand goddess spear in her right. statue The off was carted to Constantinople by Emperor Theodosius had lost its spear, so in AD 426. By 1204 it This led to be gesturing. the hand appeared the inhabitants to believe the statue that had to the city, so they beckoned the crusaders to pieces. it smashed PARTHENON The Temple of Temple •• Sights ATHENS , which cuts across the across the cuts , which on the statue of Athena Polias in on the statue of once stood on a platform perched once stood on a platform perched peplos peplos (a glorious saffron-coloured shawl). At ), as are some relief sculptures, including sculptures, some relief ), as are Panathenaic Way Panathenaic This is the third time the temple has beenThis is the third time the temple The Great Panathenaic Festival began with Festival Panathenaic The Great was Designed by Callicrates, the temple dismantled. The Turks took it apart in 1686 four graceful Ionic columns at either end. four graceful Ionic columns at either end. the frieze, which of Only fragments remain had scenes from mythology on the east and Pla- south sides, and scenes from the Battle of taea (479 BC) and Athenians fighting Boeo- Parts on the other sides. tians and Persians in the Acropolis Museum the frieze are of ( p115 fasten- Nike Athena of the beautiful sculpture ing her sandal. housed The temple a statue of Athena. goddess the cannon on the platform. It and put a huge the goddess Athena. There were actually two were There Athena. the goddess took Festival the Lesserfestivals: Panathenaic and the on Athena’s birthday, place annually on every was held Festival Panathenaic Great birth. goddess’s the of fourth anniversary dramatic and dancing, followed by athletic, proces- The Panathenaic musical contests. the took place on the final day of sion, which and ended at the began at Keramikos festival, carrying animals sacrificed Men Erechtheion. procession, followed to Athena headed the (horn-shaped by maidens carrying rhytons Behinddrinking vessels). them musicians noble birth of for the girls played a fanfare the sacred aloft who followed, proudly holding peplos branches. old men bearing olive were the rear The procession’s grand finale was the placing of the the Erechtheion. TEMPLE OF ATHENA NIKE proportioned little The exquisitely Athena Nike the Acropo- of atop the steep southwest edge It may well the Propylaia. lis, to the right of this, but the read by the time you be there was dismantled piece by piece in 2003 temple it offsite. to restore move in a controversial It was supposed to be back in time for the at Olympics, but only parts had reappeared research. of the time marble between 427 BC and Pentelic built of 424 BC. with almost square, The building is www.lonelyplanet.com PANATHENAIC WAY The taken was the route the Acropolis, middle of – the climax procession by the Panathenaic venerate held to festival the Panathenaia of Station (200m); Syntagma (750m) To Akropoli Metro 16 D 15 www.lonelyplanet.com 1 8 Lift (art gallery) and the south 2 9

Dionysiou Areopagitou 5 00 100 m 0.1 miles pinakothiki 10 C1 B1 B1 C2 B2 D3 D2

The Propylaia is aligned with the Par- Panathenaic Way Panathenaic 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 Lift ning strike set off an explosion in a Turkish ning strike Heinrich Archaeologist gunpowder store. one of of paid for the removal Schliemann the – a Frankish tower – in its appendages 19th century. Reconstruction took place be- was further tween 1909 and 1917, and there WWII. after restoration est) opened onto the Panathenaic Way. The est) opened onto the Panathenaic the Propylaia must indeed portico of western six dou- been imposing, consisting of have ble columns, Doric on the outside and Ionic The fourth column along has on the inside. the central hall of The ceiling been restored. on a dark-blue with gold stars was painted background. The northern wing was used as a of the Temple to wing was the antechamber Athena Nike. a building thenon – the earliest example of It remained to another. designed in relation intact until the 13th century, when various started to it. It was badly adding occupiers in the 17th century when a light- damaged gates were the only entrances to the ‘upper were gates the larg- was (which city’. The middle gate 13 , 4 12 Beulé Gate , a bronze B 11 Porch of the Caryatids...... Propylaia...... Statue of Athena Promachos.. Stoa of Eumenes...... Temple of Athena Nike...... Theatre of Dionysos...... Wall of Cimon...... Parthenon...... C2 14 6 C1 C2 B1 B1 C1 B2 C2 7 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Main Entrance 3 Plaka (500m) Ancient Agora (300m); To Roman Agora (250m); Monument of Agrippa formed the towering entrance

Wheelchair Access AC Theorias Erechtheion...... Odeon of Herodes Atticus...... Panagia Hrysospiliotissa...... Altar of Rome & Augustus...... Asclepion...... Beulé Gate...... Entrance Court...... Monument of Agrippa...... B1 ATHENS •• Sights Sights •• ATHENS Propylaia ACROPOLIS

2 3 1

To Thisio (750m) 112 had a gate, and in ancient times these had a gate, five the Parthenon. It consists of a central hall, It consists of the Parthenon. Eachwith two wings on either side. section to the Acropolis in ancient times. Built by Acropolis to the Mnesicles between 437 BC and 432 BC, its brilliance ranks with that of architectural PROPYLAIA PROPYLAIA The the Panathenaic games. Panathenaic the Now destroyed, it was erected in 27 BCNow destroyed, it was erected to race at a chariot victory in commemorate topped by the riding a chariot. the Roman general statue of pedestal halfway up the zigzag on the left, ramp leading to the Propylaia, was once named after the French archaeologist Ernest archaeologist the French named after 8m it in 1852. The Beulé, who uncovered BEULÉ GATE & MONUMENT OF AGRIPPA & MONUMENT OF AGRIPPA BEULÉ GATE way along the a little Once inside the site, path, on your left you will see the age Site status. Site age an effort to save the monuments for future an effort the monuments for future to save The Acropolis has World Herit- generations. restoration programmes are continuing in continuing in programmes are restoration ATHENS & ATTICA ATTICA & ATHENS ATHENS & ATTICA

(Map 115

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(Chapel of our (Chapel of ). The theatre is open theatre ). The Acropolis Museum was to open by 2008 was to open by 2008 Makrygianni 2-4;

210 321 0219; Panagia Hrysospiliotissa % ; Ancient Athens is also seen in a new is also seen in a new Ancient Athens light, thanks to the brilliant illumination light, thanks to the brilliant illumination of the Acropolis and key monuments by grand Bideau. The designer Pierre French promenade starts at Dionysiou Areopagitou, and of Olympian Zeus, the Temple opposite continues along the southern foothills of the Acropolis, all the way to the Ancient Agora, to Keramikos and branching off from Thisio north along Adrianou to the Roman Agora, Monastiraki and Plaka. ANCIENT PROMENADE streets once traffic-choked polluted The been have centre historic around Athens’ transformed into a spectacular 3km pedestrian promenade connecting the city’s Locals and most significant ancient sites. tourists alike delight in an evening (walk) along the grand promenade – one – precincts longest pedestrian of Europe’s under the floodlit Acropolis. Designed by leading architect BernardDesigned by leading architect Ts- Construction of the museum was plagued Construction of dating back to prehistoric times. The impres- times. dating back to prehistoric been into the incorporated ruins have sive the of design, with around 2000 sq metres old city on display in the basement through a elevatedseries and glass floors. walkways of the museum all the chumi, will bring together the Acropolis, including surviving of treasures the Hellenic Festival ( p130 ( Festival the Hellenic performances. during public only to the PANAGIA HRYSOSPILIOTISSA see Dionysos, you will of an the Theatre Above grotto path leading to a indistinct rock-strewn in the cliff In 320 BC face. turned Thrasyllos to Dionysos. dedicated a temple the grotto into The tiny is now a poignant little Lady the Cavern) of icons on the walls. and place with old pictures two Ionic columns, the are the chapel Above temple. Thrasyllos’ of remains Acropolis Museum new The long-awaited pp102-3 Apr-Oct, 8am-5pm Nov-Mar) the base at the southern site of on a massive Acropolis. the excavation after by legal action and delays city an Athenian of the remains uncovered , , which , which , worship- Stoa of Eumenes selini Asclepion , built in 161. Herodes , built in 161. Herodes •• Sights ATHENS Odeon of Herodes Atticus The reliefs at the rear of the stage, mostly the stage, of at the rear The reliefs Beneath is the the Asclepion The theatre was reconstructed in stone in stone reconstructed was The theatre of headless figures, depict the exploits of Di- depict the exploits of figures, headless of spring. The wor- was built around a sacred Athens in 429 BC at a time when plague was the city. sweeping Per- a colonnade built by Eumenes II, King of gamum (197–159 BC), and prom- as a shelter audiences. theatre enade for ODEON OF HERODES ATTICUS to The path continues west from the Asclepion the Atticus was a wealthy Roman who built the It was Regilla. his wife in memory of theatre restored in 1857–58 and completely excavated perform- are between There 1950 and 1961. during drama, music and dance here ances of 326 BC, a seating with 17,000 of capacity about 20 survive. which of 64 tiers, over spread built the front row, the seatsApart from were occupied by were Piraeus limestone and of con- ordinary citizens, although women were The front row had 67 fined to the back rows. were marble, which Pentelic thrones built of reserved officials and important for festival and in the centre priests. The grandest was reserved who sat Dionysos, for the Priest of a canopy. His seatshaded from the sun under can be identified by well-preserved lion-claw Roman times, the theatre In at either side. feet was also used for state events and ceremonies, for performances. as well as century BC. from the 2nd onysos and date The man- guys who have two hefty, hunched-up their heads are to keep aged the mythical Selinos, of the debauched pers whose attribute the satyrs, chief father of phallus. His beenseemsan oversized to have up mountains pastime was charging favourite was also He nymphs. of pursuit in lecherous Dionysos’ mentor. ASCLEPION & STOA OF EUMENES Dionysos, of the Theatre above Directly lead up to a pathway. On the left wooden steps is the the steps at the top of Apollo, the physician son of Asclepius, ship of and was introduced to began in Epidavros www.lonelyplanet.com Aris- of the bawdy comedies by provided relief Attica, all over came from People tophanes. the state. with their expenses met by between 342 BCby Lycurgus and marble and on – King – King Cecropion Temenos of Pandros- Temenos Theatre of Dionysos www.lonelyplanet.com was placed at the culmination of the was placed at the culmination of , where, according to mythology, the sa- , where, During the golden age in the 5th century During the golden age The main temple is of the Ionic order and the Ionic order is of The main temple six grace- of consists The northern porch The first theatre on this site was a tim- on this site theatre The first The Erechtheion was part of Pericles’ plan, Pericles’ part of was The Erechtheion the is architecturally The Erechtheion Southern Slope of the Acropolis Southern Slope of the Acropolis dances, which were followed by feasting followed by feasting were dances, which and revelry. BC, the major was one of the annual festival Politicians would events on the calendar. as Aeschy- such sponsor dramas by writers lus, Sophocles and Euripides, with some light the south of here was the here the south of Cecrops’ burial place. THEATRE OF DIONYSOS in the Athenian theatre The importance of from the dimen- city-state can be gauged the enormous sions of sometime during the erected ber structure 6th century BC, the tyrant Peisistratos after Diony- the Great of introduced the Festival where the contests, attended Everyone sia. men clad in goatskins sang and performed northern porch and southern porch – all with porch and southern northern porch different dimensions. to – one dedicated is divided into two cellae Athena, the other to Poseidon – representing their the two deities after of a reconciliation In Athena’s cella stood an olive-wood contest. on Athena Polias holding a shield statue of The statue head. was was a gorgon’s which placed at its by a golden lantern illuminated It was this statue the sacred feet. on which peplos Festival. Panathenaic Great the fis- ful Ionic columns; on the floor are supposedly cleft by Poseidon’ssures trident. leads into the This porch the Acropolis. slope of the southeastern (except for one removed by Lord Elgin) are in are Lord Elgin) by for one removed (except the Acropolis Museum ). ( opposite the out- after was postponed but the project work and Wars, the Peloponnesian of break did not start until 421 BC, his after eight years been completed thoughtdeath. It is to have 406 BC. in the Acropolis, of most unusual monument Ionic architecture. example of a supreme built on severalIngeniously levels to coun- the ground, it con- the unevenness of teract basic parts – the main temple, three sists of sos To brought forth by Athena grew. olive cred . They are so called so called . They are , built on the part of the , built on the part of Caryatids Erechtheion ATHENS •• Sights Sights •• ATHENS ). Named after Erichthonius, a mythical Erichthonius, ). Named after The Erechtheion is immediately recognis- is immediately The Erechtheion Here stood the statue for which the tem- stood the statue for which Here In AD 426 the statue to Con- was taken The ceiling of the Parthenon, like that of the that of like the Parthenon, The ceiling of

114 Those casts. The originals you see plaster are because the models for them were women because the models for them were Lakonia. in (modern-day Karyes) from Karyai able by the six larger-than-life maiden columns able by the six larger-than-life that support its southern portico, the much- photographed Athena, Poseidon and Erichthonius. Athena, Poseidon p95 housed Athens, the temple the cults of king of Acropolis held most sacred. It was here that It was here Acropolis held most sacred. Poseidon struck the ground with his trident (see tree Athena produced the olive and where fell to the fell sive monument of the Acropolis, it was more the Acropolis, it was more monument of sive than a sanctuary. a showpiece That role of ERECHTHEION ERECHTHEION was the most impres- Although the Parthenon stantinople, where it disappeared. There is a There it disappeared. stantinople, where in the Roman copy (the Athena Varvakeion) National Archaeological Museum ( p120 ). were fashioned from jewels. The goddess was fashioned from jewels. were gold with the head of of clad in a long dress carved In her Medusa breast. in ivory on her (the Nike right hand, she held a statuette of and in her left a spear; at victory) of goddess wore the spear was a serpent.the base She of with was a sphinx which a helmet, on top of either side. at griffins in relief an inner wooden frame, and stood almost and stood almost an inner wooden frame, 12m high on its pedestal. The face, hands ivory, and the eyes made of were and feet stars. At the eastern end was the holy cella end At the eastern stars. a only into which a temple), (inner room of could enter. initiates privileged few Polias (Athena of ple was built – the Athena of the wonders of one the City) – considered and by Pheidias the ancient world. Designed in 432 BC,completed over it was gold plated Propylaia, was painted blue and gilded with Propylaia, was painted don. The British government continues to continues to don. The British government return. their for requests scorn Greek 1687, but the greatest existing part (over 75m) (over existing part greatest 1687, but the the much-publicised Parthenon consists of now in the British Museum in Lon- Marbles, 159.5m long ran all around the Parthenon. ran all around the Parthenon. 159.5m long the explosion of in it was damaged of Much the contest of the Lapiths and Centaurs of the contest at the Ionic frieze Pierithoös. An of feast marriage the Athenians into battle against the Ama- battle against into the Athenians zons. Those represented southern side on the ATHENS & ATTICA ATTICA & ATHENS 116 RUNNINGHEADATHENS •• Sights •• Runningsubhead www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com RUNNINGHEAD •• ATHENS RunningSubhead •• Sights 117 ATHENS & ATTICA

0 100 m ANCIENT AGORA 0 0.1 miles entrances, but the most convenient is the met, while the heads of government met to the northern entrance from Adrianou. south at the circular Tholos. A BC15 D Adrianou To Syntagma (1.5km) STOA OF ATTALOS CHURCH OF THE HOLY APOSTLES Agora Museum...... (see 11) 12 Altar of the Twelve Gods...... 1 C1 3 The Agora Museum, in the reconstructed Stoa of This charming little church, which stands near

ATHENS & ATTICA ATHENS & ATTICA Church of the Holy Apostles...... 2 D2 1 1 Attalos, is a good place to start to make sense of the southern entrance, was built in the early Entrance...... 3 C1 14 6 Metroön...... 4 C2 the site. The museum opens later on Monday 10th century to commemorate St Paul’s teach- Panathenaic Way Middle Stoa...... 5 C2 18 17 Mosaic showing reconstruction of 16 (11am) and has a model of the Agora as well ing in the Agora. Between 1954 and 1957 it

Agora...... 6 C1 Vrissakiou 11 as a collection of finds from the site. was stripped of its 19th-century additions and New Bouleuterion...... 7 C1 13 Kladon Odeon of Agrippa...... 8 C2 7 4 The original stoa was built by King Attalos restored to its original form. It contains some 9 Plan of Site...... 9 B2 8 II of Pergamum (159–138 BC). Two storeys fine Byzantine frescoes. Sewer...... 10 C2 Stoa of Attalos...... 11 D1 high with two aisles, it housed expensive Stoa of Basileios...... 12 C1 19 Peikilis shops and was a popular stamping ground Keramikos Stoa of the Giants...... 13 C1 Stoa of Zeus Eleutherios...... 14 C1 5 for wealthy Athenians. People also gathered The city’s cemetery from the 12th century Taxiarhon 2 Stoa Poikile...... 15 C1 here to watch the Panathenaic procession. BC to Roman times was Keramikos (Map p101 ; Temple of Apollo...... 16 C1 10 Temple of Ares...... 17 C1 It was authentically reconstructed between %210 346 3552; Ermou 148, Keramikos; adult/concession Temple of Hephaestus...... 18 B1 1953 and 1956 by the American School of Ar- incl museum €2/1; h8am-7.30pm Apr-Oct, 8am-5.30pm Tholos...... 19 C2 2 chaeology. The reconstruction deviates from Nov-Mar). It was discovered in 1861 during the the original in only one detail: the façade has construction of Pireos, the street that leads been left in natural Pentelic marble, but it was to Piraeus. It is one of the most green and those transferred from the old museum up on the five surviving Caryatids, from the Erech- originally painted red and blue. The stoa has tranquil of Athens’ ancient sites. the Acropolis, as well as pieces from other theion. The fifth is in the British Museum. a series of 45 columns that are Doric on the Athenian museums and storage facilities. ground floor and Ionic on the upper gallery. SACRED & DIPYLON GATES The top-floor Parthenon Gallery has been Ancient Agora Once inside the site, head for the small knoll designed to showcase the temple’s frieze, Athens’ meeting place in ancient times was TEMPLE OF HEPHAESTUS ahead and to the right, where you’ll find a sculptures and metopes. There are empty the Agora (Map p116 ; %210 321 0185; Adrianou; adult/ This temple on the western edge of the Agora plan of the site. A path leads down to the right spaces for the missing pieces – the contro- concession €4/2). It was the focal point of ad- was surrounded by foundries and metalwork from the knoll to the remains of the city wall, versial Parthenon Marbles currently residing ministrative, commercial, political and social shops, and was dedicated to Hephaestus, god which was built by Themistocles in 479 BC, in the British Museum – that were hacked off activity. All roads led to the Agora, and it of the forge. It was one of the first buildings and rebuilt by Konon in 394 BC. The wall is by Lord Elgin in 1801. The pieces that escaped was a lively, crowded place. Socrates spent of Pericles’ rebuilding programme and is the broken by the foundations of two gates. Tiny Lord Elgin’s clutches depict the Olympians at a lot of time here expounding his philoso- best-preserved Doric temple in Greece. Built signs mark each one. the Panathenaic procession. phy, and in AD 49 St Paul disputed daily in in 449 BC by Ictinus, one of the architects The first, the Sacred Gate, spanned the Sa- A glass atrium will allow you to see the the Agora, intent upon winning converts to of the Parthenon, it has 34 columns and a cred Way and was the one by which pilgrims Acropolis while you view the exhibits, though Christianity. frieze on the eastern side depicting nine of from Eleusis entered the city during the an- the latest controversy involved the demoli- The site was first developed in the 6th cen- the Twelve Labours of Heracles. In AD 1300 nual Eleusian procession. The second, the tion of two historic buildings to make this tury BC. It was devastated by the Persians in it was converted into the Church of Agios Dipylon Gate, to the northeast of the Sacred view unobstructed. 480 BC, but a new agora was built in its place Georgios. The last service held here was on Gate, was the city’s main entrance and where The museum collection (formerly in the almost immediately. It was flourishing by 13 December 1834 in honour of King Otho’s on-site museum) includes finds from the tem- Pericles’ time and continued to do so until AD arrival in Athens. ples predating the Parthenon and destroyed 267, when it was destroyed by the Herulians, Unlike the Parthenon, the monument SIX FOR THE PRICE OF ONE by the Persians, notably the pedimental sculp- a Gothic tribe from Scandinavia. The Turks doesn’t evoke a sense of wonder, but it’s im- The €12 Acropolis admission includes entry tures of Heracles slaying the Lernaian Hydra built a residential quarter on the site, but pressive enough nonetheless. to the main ancient sites: Ancient Agora, and of a lioness devouring a bull. this was demolished by archaeologists after To the northeast of the temple are the Roman Agora, Keramikos, Temple of Olym- Prize exhibits are the 6th-century-BC Independence. If they’d had their way, the foundations of the Stoa of Zeus Eleutherios, one pian Zeus, and the Theatre of Dionysos. Kore (maiden) statues, uncovered from a archaeologists would have also knocked down of the places where Socrates expounded his The ticket is valid for four days; otherwise pit on the Acropolis, where the Athenians the whole of Plaka, which was also Turkish. philosophy. Further north are the founda- individual site fees apply, though this is not buried them after the Battle of Salamis. The The area has been excavated to classical and, tions of the Stoa of Basileios and the Stoa Poikile enforced. The same opening hours (8am to statues were votives dedicated to Athena, in parts, Neolithic levels. (Painted Stoa), both currently inaccessible 7pm April to October, 8am to 5.30pm No- each one holding an offering to the god- The main monuments are the Temple to the public. The Stoa Poikile was so called vember to May) apply for all of these sites, dess. The earliest of these Kore statues are of Hephaestus, the Stoa of Attalos and the because of its murals, which were painted by but it pays to double-check as sometimes quite stiff and formal in comparison with Church of the Holy Apostles. the leading artists of the day and depicted winter hours and summer hours can vary. the later ones, which have flowing robes and The site is bounded by Areopagus Hill in mythological and historical battles. There is free entrance to the sites on the elaborate headdresses. the south, the Athens–Piraeus metro Line To the southeast of the Temple of Hephaes- first Sunday of the month (except for July Other highlights include the relief of Athena to the north, Plaka to the east and Apos- tus was the New Bouleuterion (Council House), and August). Nike adjusting her sandal, as well as four of tolou Pavlou to the west. There are several where the Senate (originally created by Solon) 118 RUNNINGHEADATHENS •• Sights •• Runningsubhead www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com RUNNINGHEAD •• ATHENS RunningSubhead •• Sights 119 ATHENS & ATTICA

the Panathenaic procession began. It was also foundations of a 1st-century public latrine. the fallen column was blown down in a gale (p156 ) at Dafni, 10km northwest of Athens, the stamping ground of the city’s prostitutes, In the southeast area are the foundations of a in 1852. Hadrian put a colossal statue of Zeus which has been closed since it was damaged who gathered there to offer their services to propylon and a row of shops. in the cella and, in typically immodest fash- in the 1999 earthquake. jaded travellers. The well-preserved Tower of the Winds (Map ion, placed an equally large one of himself The 12th-century Church of Agios Eleftherios From a platform outside the Dipylon Gate, pp102–3 ) was built in the 1st century BC by next to it. (Little Metropolis; Map pp102-3 ; Plateia Mitropoleos, Plaka) is ATHENS & ATTICA ATHENS & ATTICA Pericles gave his famous speech extolling the a Syrian astronomer named Andronicus. The considered one of the city’s finest. It is built virtues of Athens and honouring those who octagonal monument of Pentelic marble is HADRIAN’S LIBRARY partly of Pentelic marble and decorated with died in the first year of the Peloponnesian an ingenious construction that functioned To the north of the Roman Agora is this vast an external frieze of symbolic beasts in bas Wars – stirring many more to battle and as a sundial, weather vane, water clock and 2nd-century-AD library (Map pp102–3 ), the relief. It was originally dedicated to the Pana- ultimately their deaths. compass. Each side represents a point of the largest structure erected by Hadrian. It in- gia Gorgoepikoos (meaning ‘Virgin swift to Between the Sacred and the Dipylon gates compass, and has a relief of a figure floating cluded a cloistered courtyard bordered by 100 answer prayers’) and was once the city’s ca- are the foundations of the Pompeion, used through the air, which depicts the wind asso- columns and there was a pool in the centre. thedral, but now stands in the shadows of the as a dressing room for participants in the ciated with that particular point. Beneath each As well as books, the building housed music much larger new cathedral (Map pp102–3 ). Panathenaic procession. of the reliefs are the faint markings of sundials. and lecture rooms and a theatre. Restoration The small 11th-century Church of Kapnika- The weather vane, which disappeared long works were completed in 2005. rea (Map pp102-3 ; Ermou, Monastiraki; h8am-2pm Tue, STREET OF TOMBS ago, was a bronze Triton that revolved on top Thu & Fri) stands smack in the middle of the Leading off the Sacred Way to the left as you of the tower. The Turks allowed dervishes to ROMAN BATHS Ermou shopping strip. It was saved from head away from the city is the Street of Tombs. use the tower. Excavation work to create a ventilation shaft the bulldozers and restored by Athens Uni- This avenue was reserved for the tombs of for the metro uncovered the well-preserved versity. Its dome is supported by four large Athens’ most prominent citizens. The surviv- HADRIAN’S ARCH ruins of a large Roman bath complex (Map Roman columns. ing stelae are now in the National Archaeo- The Roman emperor Hadrian had a great pp102–3 ). The baths, which extend into the The 11th-century Church of Agii Theodori (Map logical Museum (p120 ), and what you see are affection for Athens. Although he did his National Gardens, were established near the pp104-5 ; off Plateia Klafthmonos on Stadiou, Syntagma) has replicas. The astonishing array of funerary fair share of spiriting its classical artwork to Ilissos river after the Herulian raids in the 3rd a tiled dome and walls decorated with a pretty monuments, and their bas reliefs, warrant Rome, he also embellished the city with many century AD; they were destroyed and repaired terracotta frieze of animals and plants. more than a cursory examination. monuments influenced by classical architec- again in the 5th or 6th century. The lovely 11th-century Agios Nikolaos Ran- Ordinary citizens were buried in the areas ture. Grandiose as these monuments are, they gavas (Map pp102-3 ; Plaka) was part of the palace bordering the Street of Tombs. One well-pre- lack the refinement and artistic flair of their PANATHENAIC STADIUM of the Rangavas family, who counted among served stele shows a little girl with her pet dog. classical predecessors. The Panathenaic Stadium (Map p100 ), which them Michael I, emperor of Byzantium. The You will find it by going up the stone steps on Hadrian’s Arch (Map pp102–3) is a lofty mon- lies between two pine-covered hills between church bell was the first installed in Athens the northern side of the Street of Tombs. The ument of Pentelic marble that stands where the neighbourhoods of Mets and Pangrati, after liberation from the Turks (who banned site’s largest stele, that of sisters Demetria and busy Leoforos Vasilissis Olgas and Leoforos was originally built in the 4th century BC as them), and was the first to ring in 1833 to Pamphile, is on the path running from the Vasilissis Amalias meet. It was erected by a venue for the Panathenaic athletic contests. announce the freedom of Athens. southeast corner of the Street of Tombs. Hadrian in AD 132, probably to commemo- A thousand wild animals are said to have been The unique 11th-century Church of Sotira rate the consecration of the Temple of Ol- slaughtered in the arena at Hadrian’s inaugu- Lykodimou (Map pp102–3 ), now the Russian ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM OF ympian Zeus (below ). The inscriptions show ration in AD 120. The seats were rebuilt in Orthodox Cathedral, is the only octagonal Byz- KERAMIKOS that it was also intended as a dividing point Pentelic marble by Herodes Atticus. antine church and has an imposing dome. The site’s small museum was established by between the ancient city and the Roman city. After hundreds of years of disuse, the sta- One of the oldest churches in Athens is the its benefactor, Gustav Oberlaender, a Ger- The northwest frieze bears the inscription dium was completely restored in 1895 by 10th-century Church of the Holy Apostles man-American stocking manufacturer. It ‘This is Athens, the Ancient city of Theseus’, wealthy Greek benefactor Georgios Averof (p117 ) in the Ancient Agora. Other churches contains stelae and sculptures from the site, while the southeast frieze states ‘This is the to host the first modern Olympic Games the worth seeing are the 11th- to 12th-century as well as a good collection of vases and city of Hadrian, and not of Theseus’. following year. It is a faithful replica of the Church of Agia Ekaterini (Map pp102–3 ) in terracotta figurines. Panathenaic Stadium, comprising seats of Plaka near the Lysikratous monument, and TEMPLE OF OLYMPIAN ZEUS Pentelic marble for 70,000 spectators, a run- the 15th-century Church of Agios Dimitrios Roman Athens This is the largest temple (Map pp102-3 ; %210 ning track and a central area for field events. Loumbardiaris (p124 ) on Filopappou Hill. TOWER OF THE WINDS & ROMAN AGORA 922 6330; adult/concession €2/1; h8am-7.30pm Apr-Oct, It made a stunning backdrop to the archery The lovely Byzantine monastery, Moni Kai- The entrance to the Roman Agora (Map pp102- 8am-5.30pm Nov-Mar) in Greece. The temple was competition and the marathon finish during sarianis ( p125) is also worth a visit. 3 ; %210 324 5220; cnr Pelopida & Eolou; adult/concession begun in the 6th century BC by Peisistratos, the 2004 Olympics. None of these sites keeps regular hours, so €2/1; h8am-7.30pm Apr-Oct, 8am-5.30pm Nov-Mar) is but was abandoned for lack of funds. Vari- it’s a case of popping in if they are open. through the well-preserved Gate of Athena ous other leaders had stabs at completing the Byzantine Athens Archegetis, which is flanked by four Doric col- temple, but it was left to Hadrian to complete Byzantine architecture in Athens is fairly thin Neoclassical Athens umns. It was erected sometime during the 1st the work in AD 131. It took more than 700 on the ground. By the time of the split in Athens boasts a large number of fine neoclas- century AD and financed by Julius Caesar. years to build. the Roman Empire, Athens had shrunk to sical buildings dating from the period after The rest of the Roman Agora appears to The temple is impressive for the sheer size little more than a provincial town. The most Independence. Foremost are the celebrated the layperson as little more than a heap of of its 104 Corinthian columns (17m high with important Byzantine building is the World neoclassical trilogy on Panepistimiou, halfway rubble. To the right of the entrance are the a base diameter of 1.7m), of which 15 remain – Heritage–listed, 11th-century Moni Dafniou between Omonia and Syntagma. 120 RUNNINGHEADATHENS •• Sights •• Runningsubhead www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com RUNNINGHEAD •• ATHENS RunningSubhead •• Sights 121 ATHENS & ATTICA

The centrepiece is the splendid Athens Uni- (Mycenaean tomb shaped like a beehive) at In the centre of Gallery 56 are six Pana- family house into a museum and presented it versity (Map pp104–5 ), designed by the Danish Vaphio, near Sparta. thenaic amphorae, presented to the winners to the Greek nation. The collection includes architect Christian Hansen and completed The Cycladic collection in Gallery 6 includes of the Panathenaic Games. Each amphorae Bronze Age finds from Mycenae and Thes- in 1864. It still serves as the university’s ad- the superb figurines of the 3rd and 2nd cen- contained oil from the sacred olive trees of saly; two early works by El Greco; ecclesiastical ministrative headquarters. On its left is the tury BC that inspired artists such as Picasso. Athens and victors might have received up furniture brought from Asia Minor; pottery, ATHENS & ATTICA ATHENS & ATTICA Athens Academy (Map pp104–5 ), designed by Backtrack and enter the galleries to the to 140 of them. They are painted with scenes copper, silver and woodwork from Egypt, Asia Hansen’s brother Theophile and completed left of the entrance, which house the oldest from the relevant sport (in this case wrestling) Minor and Mesopotamia; and a stunning col- in 1885. The Ionian-style entrance mimics the and most significant pieces of the Sculpture on one side and an armed Athena Promachos lection of Greek regional costumes. eastern entrance to the Erechtheion. Neither collection. Galleries 7 to 13 exhibit the muse- on the other. The Benaki Museum Pireos Annexe (Map p101 ; is open to the public. um’s fine examples of Archaic Kouroi dating In the centre of Room 50, you can see the %210 345 3111; www.benaki.gr; Pireos 138, cnr Andronikou, The trilogy is completed by the National from the 7th century BC to 480 BC, including obscure 7th-century clay doll (cabinet 20) from Rouf; h10am-6pm Wed, Thu & Sun, 10am-10pm Fri & Sat) Library (Map pp104-5 ; %210 338 2541; www.nlg.gr; the colossal 600 BC Sounion Kouros (Room 8), the Boetian Geometric period that was the hosts regular visual arts, cultural and histori- Panepistimiou 32, Syntagma; admission free; h9am-8pm found at the Temple of Poseidon in Sounion. inspiration for the odd-looking Athens 2004 cal exhibitions as well as major international Mon-Thu, 9am-2pm Fri & Sat). Its main feature is the Made of Naxian marble, the statue was a vo- Olympic mascots, Athena and Phivos. The shows. The impressive former industrial corridor leading to the reading room, which is tive offering to Poseidon and stood before female figure with movable large legs (one building has a café and excellent gift store. flanked by a row of Doric columns influenced his temple. has six toes) has a bell-shaped body and a by the Temple of Hephaestus ( p117 ) in the Gallery 15 is dominated by the 460 BC birdlike face. GOULANDRIS MUSEUM OF CYCLADIC & Ancient Agora. bronze statue of Zeus or Poseidon, found in the Heading back to the ground floor, turn ANCIENT GREEK ART sea off Evia, which depicts one of the gods right into Gallery 36 for the Bronze collection. This private museum (Map pp106-7 ; %210 722 8321; National Archaeological Museum (no-one really knows which one) with his Some of the galleries on this floor were closed www.cycladic.gr; cnr Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias & Neofytou Douka, One of the world’s great museums, the National arms outstretched and holding a thunderbolt for 20 years. One of the significant additions Kolonaki; adult/concession €5/2; h10am-4pm Mon & Wed-Fri, Archaeological Museum (Map pp104-5 ; %210 821 7724; or trident in his right hand. to this collection is the large 2nd-century-BC 10am-3pm Sat) houses a collection of Cycladic art www.culture.gr; 28 Oktovriou-Patision 44, Athens; adult/conces- In Gallery 21 you will see the striking 2nd- statue of the Lady of Kalymnon in Gallery 39. second in importance only to that displayed sion €7/3; h10am-5pm Mon, 8am-7.30pm Tue-Sun Apr-Oct, century-BC statue of a horse and young rider, This larger than life-size figure, wearing a at the National Archaeological Museum ( op- 8.30am-3pm Nov-Mar) houses the most important recovered from a shipwreck off Cape Artemi- long draped tunic, was found in bad shape posite ). The museum was custom-built for finds from Greece’s archaeological sites. sion in Evia. Behind the horse is the lesser- by a fisherman off the island of Kalymno in the collection, and the finds are beautifully The museum, which was damaged in the known statue of Aphrodite, showing a demure 1994. Next to the statue are photos and details displayed and well labelled. Although the 1999 earthquake, was totally overhauled and nude Aphrodite struggling to hold her draped of its restoration. exhibits cover all periods from Cycladic to reopened in 2004. The collection has been gown over her private parts. Many of the smaller bronzes are mas- Roman times, the emphasis is on the Cycladic rearranged thematically and is beautifully From Gallery 21, head left and up the stairs terpieces from the leading bronzesmithing era from 3000 BC to 2000 BC. The exhibits presented, with information in English and to the museum’s other big crowd-puller, the workshops of Ancient Greece. The 200-BC include the marble figurines with folded arms Greek. Hundreds of pieces held in storage spectacular Minoan frescoes from Santorini statue of Athena Varvakeion is the most famous that inspired many 20th-century artists with are now on display, while galleries that were (Thira). The frescoes – the Boxing Children, copy – much reduced in size – of the statue their simplicity and purity of form. closed for many years have reopened. The the Spring wall painting showing red lilies of Athena Polias by Pheidias that once stood The 19th-century mansion next door is final two galleries, with the Egyptian and Stat- and a pair of swallows kissing in mid-air and in the Parthenon. used for temporary exhibitions. hatos collections, were temporarily closed. the Antelopes – were uncovered from the pre- The museum is a 10-minute walk from With 10,000 sq metres of exhibition space, historic settlement of Akrotiri (p431 ), which Viktoria metro station, or catch trolleybus BYZANTINE & CHRISTIAN MUSEUM it could take several visits to appreciate the was buried by a volcanic eruption in the late 2, 4, 5, 9 or 11 from outside St Denis Ca- This outstanding museum (Map pp106-7 ; %210 museum’s vast holdings, but it is possible to 16th century BC. thedral on Panepistimiou and get off at the 721 1027; www.culture.gr; Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias 22; adult/ see the highlights in a half-day. The Thira Gallery is the most high-tech of Polytechnio stop. concession €4/2; h8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sun May-Sep, Ahead of you as you enter the museum the museum’s displays, with videos showing 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun Oct-Apr; w) presents a price- is the Prehistoric collection, showcasing some the 1926 volcanic eruption, the Akrotiri ex- Other Museums & Galleries less collection of Christian art, dating from of the most important pieces of Mycenaean, cavation and preservation work on the vases With its wealth of history, it is not surprising the 4th to 15th centuries, which sheds light Neolithic and Cycladic art. and frescoes. that Athens has more than 130 museums, on Byzantine and post-Byzantine culture – a The fabulous collection of Mycenaean an- Also on the 1st floor is the extensive and highlighting the city’s history, art, culture part of Greek history that is often ignored in tiquities (Gallery 4) is the museum’s tour de superb pottery collection, which traces the and obsessions. favour of its ancient past. The collection is force. The first cabinet you come to holds development of pottery from the Bronze exceptionally presented with themed displays the celebrated Mask of Agamemnon, unearthed Age through the Protogeometric and Geo- BENAKI MUSEUM in a multilevel underground gallery. Housed at Mycenae by Heinrich Schliemann, along metric periods, to the emergence of the Greece’s finest private museum (Map pp106-7 ; in the pretty grounds of the former Villa Ilis- with key finds from Grave Circle A, including famous Attic black-figured pottery of the %210 367 1000; www.benaki.gr; Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias & sia, the museum is a welcome break from the bronze daggers with intricate representations 6th century and the red-figured pottery Koumbari 1, Kolonaki; adult/concession €6/3, free Thu; h9am- city hubbub. of the hunt. The exquisite Vaphio gold cups, with from the late 5th to early 4th century. The 5pm Mon, Wed, Fri & Sat, 9am-midnight Thu, 9am-3pm Sun) scenes of men taming wild bulls, are regarded other uniquely Athenian vessels are the Attic contains the vast collection of Antonis Benakis, KANELLOPOULOS MUSEUM as among the finest surviving examples of White Lekythoi, the slender vases depicting accumulated during 35 years of avid collecting This excellent museum (Map pp102-3 ; %210 321 Mycenaean art. They were found in a tholos scenes at tombs. in Europe and Asia. In 1931 he turned the 2313; Theorias 12, cnr Panos, Plaka), in an imposing 122 RUNNINGHEADATHENS •• Sights •• Runningsubhead www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com RUNNINGHEAD •• ATHENS RunningSubhead •• Sights 123 ATHENS & ATTICA

The gallery’s significant sculpture collec- ISLAMIC ART MUSEUM traces the history of the Jewish community in ART UNDERGROUND tion is now housed in Goudi at the National A rarity outside the Islamic world and an un- Greece back to the 3rd century BC through an The Athens metro is an underground net- Glyptoteque (off Map pp106-7 ; %210 770 9855; Army expected find in Greece given the country’s impressive collection of religious and folk art, work of veritable museums and contem- Park, Katehaki; adult/concession €6/3; h9am-3pm Mon & history, this museum (Map p101 ; %210 325 1311; and documents. It includes a reconstruction porary art galleries. Construction of the Wed-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun). www.benaki.gr; Agion Asomaton & Dipylou; adult/conces- of a synagogue. ATHENS & ATTICA ATHENS & ATTICA city’s subway turned into Greece’s biggest sion €5/3, free Thu; h9am-3pm Tue & Thu-Sun, 9am-9pm archaeological dig. Graves, foundations of NUMISMATIC MUSEUM Wed) showcases one of the world’s most sig- FRISSIRAS MUSEUM ancient structures, wells and thousands of This magnificent neoclassical mansion is nificant collections of Islamic art, the bulk This private art museum (Map pp102-3 ; %210 323 artefacts were found in the process and worth a visit, even if you have little inter- of which was assembled by Antonis Benakis 4678; www.frissirasmuseum.com; Moni Asteriou Tsangari many of these finds are exhibited in metro est in coins. The museum (Map pp104-5 ; %210 in the 19th century. Opened by the Benaki 3, Plaka; adult/concession €6/3; h10am-5pm Wed-Fri, stations around Athens, with the most im- 364 3774; Panepistimiou 12, Syntagma; adult/concession Museum in 2004 in two restored neoclassi- 11am-5pm Sat & Sun) is housed in two beautifully pressive displays at Syntagma, Akropoli and €3/2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) comprises 400,000 cal mansions near Keramikos, the museum restored neoclassical mansions in Plaka. It the recently opened Egaleo station, where a coins from ancient Greek, Hellenic, Roman exhibits more than 8000 items covering the showcases more than 3000 works of contem- 30m-long section of the 5th-century Sacred and Byzantine times. The building was once 12th to 19th centuries, including weavings, porary European painting, focusing mainly Way and other finds are displayed beneath the home of the celebrated archaeologist carvings, prayer carpets, tiles and ceram- on the human figure, and hosts regular a glass walkway. Heinrich Schliemann. ics. There is a 17th-century reception room temporary exhibitions. There is a pleasant All stations also incorporate art instal- with an inlaid marble floor from a Cairo museum café. lations by leading Greek artists, such as MUSEUM OF GREEK FOLK ART mansion on the 3rd floor. A very pleasant Alekos Fassianos’ work at Metaxourghio An excellent collection of secular and religious rooftop café overlooks Keramikos and you TURKISH BATHS station, Yiannis Gaïtis’ trademark little folk art, mainly from the 18th and 19th centu- can see part of the Themistoklean wall in the This beautifully refurbished 17th-century men at Larisis, and New York–based artist ries, is housed in this museum (Map pp102-3 ; %210 basement. bathhouse (Map pp102-3 ; %210 324 4340; Kyrristou Stephen Antonakos’ neon installation at 322 9031; Kydathineon 17, Plaka; adult/concession €2/1; h9am- 8, Plaka; admission €2; h9am-2.30pm Wed-Mon) is the Evangelismos. 2pm Tue-Sun). The 1st floor has embroidery, pot- JEWISH MUSEUM only surviving public bathhouse in Athens tery, weaving and puppets. The 2nd floor has Housed in a 19th-century mansion, this mu- and one of the few remnants of Ottoman a reconstructed traditional village house with seum (Map pp102-3 ; %210 322 5582; Nikis 39, Plaka; adult/ times. A helpful free audio tour takes you 1884 mansion on the northern slope of the paintings by the primitive artist Theophilos of concession €5/2; h9am-2.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sun) back in time to the bathhouse days. Acropolis, houses the Kanellopoulos family’s Lesvos (Mytilini). Greek traditional costumes extensive collection, donated to the state in are displayed on the 3rd and 4th floors. 1976. The collection includes jewellery, clay- FREE MUSEUMS and-stone vases and figurines, weapons, NATIONAL HISTORICAL MUSEUM Athens has some interesting free museums. The Museum of Greek Popular Instruments (Map Byzantine icons, bronzes and objets d’art Specialising in memorabilia from the War pp102-3 ; %210 325 4119; Diogenous 1-3, Plaka; h10am-2pm Tue & Thu-Sun, noon-6pm Wed) has displays dating from every period of Greek history. of Independence, this museum (Map pp104-5 ; and recordings of a wide selection of traditional instruments and has live music in the courtyard It was due to reopen by 2008 after a major %210 323 7617; Stadiou 13, Syntagma; adult/concession on weeknights in summer. refurbishment. €3/1, admission free Sun; h9am-2pm Tue-Sun, closed Mon The most significant collection of Greek inscriptions can be seen at the Epigraphical Museum in winter) has Byron’s helmet and sword. There (Map pp104-5 ; %210 821 7637; Tositsa 1; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun), a veritable library of stone tablets NATIONAL ART GALLERY is also a series of paintings depicting events next to the National Archaeological Museum. Greece’s premier art gallery (Map pp106-7 ; %210 leading up to the war, Byzantine and medieval The War Museum (Map pp106-7 ; %210 725 2975; cnr Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias & Rizari 2, Athens; h9am- 723 5857; Leoforos Vasileos Konstantinou 50; adult/concession exhibits, and a collection of photographs and 2pm Tue-Sun) is a relic of the colonels’ junta as well as an architectural statement of the times. €6/5; h9am-3pm Wed-Sat, 6-9pm Mon & Wed, 10am- royal portraits. All periods from the Mycenaean to the present day are covered, and displays include weapons, 2pm Sun) presents a rich collection of Greek The museum is housed in the old parlia- maps, armour and models. art spanning four centuries from the post- ment building at Plateia Kolokotroni. Theo- Aspiring thespians can visit the Theatre Museum (Map pp104-5 ; %210 362 9430; Akadimias 50, Byzantine period. A new wing housing its doros Deligiannis, who succeeded Trikoupis Syntagma; h9am-2.30pm Mon-Fri) to see memorabilia from the 19th and 20th centuries, including permanent collection explores the key art as prime minister of Greece, was assassinated costumes, props and reconstructions of the dressing rooms of Greece’s most celebrated 20th- movements chronologically. The 1st floor on the steps of the building in 1905. century actors. hosts works from the post-Byzantine period, The Centre of Folk Art & Tradition (Map pp102-3 ; %210 324 3987; Hatzimihali Angelikis 6, Plaka; the gallery’s prized El Greco paintings, in- CITY OF ATHENS MUSEUM h9am-1pm & 5-9pm Tue-Fri, 9am-1pm Sat & Sun) has good displays of costumes, embroideries, pot- cluding The Crucifixion and Symphony of Occupying the palace where King Otho and tery and musical instruments. the Angels, and works from the Ionian pe- his consort Amalia lived for a few years in The Museum of the History of Greek Costume (Map pp106-7 ; %210 362 9513; Dimokritou 7, riod until 1900. On the 2nd floor are works the 1830s, this museum (Map pp104-5 ; %210 323 Kolonaki; h10am-2pm Mon-Fri) has rotating exhibitions of traditional costumes from different re- by the country’s leading 20th-century art- 1397; Paparigopoulou 7, Syntagma; adult/concession €3/2; gions of Greece. ists, including Parthenis, Moralis, Maleas h10.30am-6pm Mon, 9am-4pm Wed-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & The Technopolis (Map p101 ; %210 3467 322; www.technopolis.gr; Pireos 100, Gazi; h10am-3pm Mon- and Lytras. The gallery also has works by Sun) contains some of the royal couple’s fur- Fri) also houses the Maria Callas Museum, a small museum dedicated to the revered opera diva. European masters, including paintings by niture, costumes and personal mementos, as This innovative cultural centre in the superbly converted Athens gasworks complex also hosts Picasso, Marquet and Utrillo, and hosts major well as paintings, prints and models of Athens multimedia exhibitions, concerts and special events. international exhibitions. in the 19th century. 124 RUNNINGHEADATHENS •• Sights •• Runningsubhead www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com RUNNINGHEAD •• ATHENS RunningSubhead •• Sights 125 ATHENS & ATTICA

Hills of Athens the path passes the Church of Agios Dimitrios Loum- in the 1870s with money donated by the MONI KAISARIANIS The Athens basin is surrounded by moun- bardiaris (Map pp102–3 ), which contains some wealthy Greek-Romanian benefactor Kon- Nestled on the slopes of Mt Hymmetos, 5km tains, bounded to the north by Mt Parnitha, fine frescoes. stantinos Zappas. Until the 1970s, the Zap- from the city, the 11th-century monastery of the northeast by Mt Pendeli, the west by Mt North of here is the rocky Hill of the Pnyx peio was used mainly as an exhibition hall. Kaisariani (Map p155 ; %210 723 6619; Mt Hymettos; ad- Egaleo and the east by Mt Ymittos. Downtown (Map p101 ), the meeting place of the Demo- It was used for Council of Europe meetings mission €2; hbuildings 8.30am-2.45pm Tue-Sun, grounds ATHENS & ATTICA ATHENS & ATTICA Athens is dominated by the much smaller cratic Assembly in the 5th century BC. Among during Greece’s presidency of the EC and as 8.30am-sunset) is a peaceful sanctuary. hills of Lykavittos (277m) and the Acropolis the great orators who addressed assemblies a media centre during the Olympics. There’s Built on the foundations of an ancient (156m), which are a pleasant escape from the here were Aristides, Demosthenes, Pericles a pleasant café and restaurant next to the temple, the dome of the church is supported traffic-congested streets. and Themistocles. The site offers great views palace, as well as an open-air cinema and by four columns from the ancient temple. over Athens. a chic bar. The walled complex has a central court sur- LYKAVITTOS HILL To the northwest is the Hill of the Nymphs rounded by the kitchen and dining rooms, The name Lykavittos means ‘hill of wolves’ (Map p101 ), on which stands the old Athens Other Attractions the monks’ cells and the bathhouse. The and derives from ancient times when the observatory built in 1842. PARLIAMENT domed katholikon (main church) is built in hill was surrounded by countryside and its The low Areopagus Hill (Map pp102–3 ) lies Greece’s Parliament (Map pp102–3 ) was cruciform style. Most of the well-preserved pine-covered slopes were inhabited by wolves. between the Acropolis and the Ancient Agora. originally the royal palace designed by the frescoes date back to the 17th and 18th cen- Today, the hill (Map pp106–7 ) is no longer According to mythology, it was here that Ares Bavarian architect Von Gartner and built turies. Avoid weekends, when it’s swarming surrounded by countryside nor inhabited by was tried by the council of the gods for the between 1836 and 1842. In 1935 it became with picnickers. wolves, but rises out of a sea of concrete to murder of Halirrhothios, son of Poseidon. the seat of the Greek parliament and it was Take bus 224 from Plateia Kaningos (at the offer the finest views in Athens. The dreaded The council accepted his defence of justifi- from the palace balcony that the syntagma north end of Akadimias), or from the junc- nefos (pollution haze) permitting, there are able deicide (the act of killing a god) on the (constitution) was declared on 3 Septem- tion of Akadimias and Sina, to the terminus. panoramic views of the city, the Attic basin, grounds that he was protecting his daughter, ber 1843. The royal family moved to a From here it’s about 30 minutes’ walk to the the surrounding mountains, and the islands of Alcippe, from unwanted advances. new palace, which became the presidential monastery – or just get a taxi. Salamina and Aegina. A path leads to the sum- The hill became the place where murder, palace upon the abolition of the monarchy mit from the top of Loukianou. Alternatively, treason and corruption trials were heard be- in 1974. Only the library is open to the ATHENS’ FIRST CEMETERY you can take the funicular railway (Map pp106-7 ; fore the Council of the Areopagus. In AD 51, public. This cemetery (Map p108 ; Anapafseos, Trivonianou, Mets; %210 721 0701; return €5.50; h9am-3am, half-hourly), St Paul delivered his famous ‘Sermon to an The war memorial in the forecourt, h7.30am-sunset) is the resting place of many referred to as the teleferik, from the top of Unknown God’ from this hill and gained his known as the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, famous Greeks and philhellenes, and while it Ploutarhou. first Athenian convert, Dionysos, who became is guarded by the city’s famous statuesque may seem a quirky thing to do, it is a fascinat- There is a café halfway up the path and patron saint of the city. evzones, the presidential guards whose uni- ing and peaceful place to explore. another at the top, as well as a fancy restaurant There are good views of the Ancient Agora form of short kilts and pom-pom shoes is Most of the tombstones and mausoleums (see Orizontes, p139 ) with spectacular views. from the summit. Areopagus Hill can be based on the attire worn by the klephts (the are lavish in the extreme. Some are kitsch and Also on the summit is the little Chapel of Agios climbed by slippery marble steps cut into the mountain fighters of the War of Independ- sentimental; others are works of art created by Giorgios (Map pp106–7 ), which is floodlit at rock, opposite the entrance to the Acropolis, ence). The changing of the guard takes place the foremost 19th-century Greek sculptors, night and looks like a vision from a fairy tale or the new stairs. every hour, while every Sunday at 11am the such as Halepas’ Sleeping Maiden on the tomb from the streets below. The open-air Lykavit- evzones perform an extended changing of the of a young girl. tos Theatre (p130 ), northeast of the summit, Parks guard ceremony in full ceremonial dress, ac- Among the cemetery’s famous residents is used for concerts in summer. The area around Syntagma is relatively green, companied by a military band. is the archaeologist Heinrich Schliemann but Athens is sadly lacking in parks. The best (1822–90), whose mausoleum is decorated WEST OF THE ACROPOLIS walks are around the base of the Acropolis and ATHENS OLYMPIC STADIUM (OAKA) with scenes from the Trojan War. Filopappou Hill (Map pp102–3 ), also called the around Filopappou Hill and the Pnyx. Athens’ newest landmark is the massive Hill of the Muses, is identifiable to the south- Athens Olympic Complex (Map p155 ; %210 683 HELLENIC COSMOS west of the Acropolis by the Monument of NATIONAL GARDENS 4777; www.oaka.com.gr; Marousi). The showpiece If ruins and museums aren’t enough insight Filopappos (Map p108 ) at its summit. The The National Gardens (Map pp102-3 ; entrances on stadium where the main action took place into the ancient world, you can take a virtual monument was built between 114 and 116 Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias & Leoforos Vasilissis Amalias, Syn- in 2004 is crowned by the striking glass and reality trip to Ancient Greece at the futuris- in honour of Julius Antiochus Filopappos, tagma; h7am-dusk) are a delightful, shady ref- steel roof designed by Spanish architect San- tic Foundation for the Hellenic World (off Map p100 ; who was a prominent Roman consul and ad- uge during summer. They were formerly the tiago Calatrava. The vast complex includes %212 254 0000; www.fhw.gr; Pireos 254, Tavros; adult €6-10, ministrator. royal gardens designed by Queen Amalia. numerous stadiums and futuristic design child €3.90-8 depending on session; h9am-9pm Mon-Tue There are small paths all over the hill, There’s also a large children’s playground, a elements, such as the shimmering Wall of & Thu-Fri, 9am-9pm Wed, noon-6pm Sat, 11am-3pm Sun but the paved path to the top starts near the duck pond and a lovely shady café. Nations. You can only visit on an organised Jun-Sep; check for winter hr), about 2km from the periptero (kiosk) on Dionysiou Areopagitou. tour (minimum 15 people; per person €3, city centre. The new high-tech Tholos domed The pine-clad slopes are a pleasant place for ZAPPEIO GARDENS additional fees for afternoon or weekend virtual reality theatre takes you on an inter- a stroll, and offer good views of the plain and Laid out in a network of wide walkways tours). If you are travelling independently, active tour of the Ancient Agora (€10) while mountains of Attica and of the Saronic Gulf, around the grand Zappeio Palace (www.zappeion you can send a request to join another tour the Kivotos time machine has 3D floor-to-ceiling and also offer some of the best vantage points .gr), these gardens (Map pp102-3 ; entrances on Leoforos (fax 210 683 4021; [email protected]). Take screens featuring ancient Miletus, Olympia for photographing the Acropolis. After 250m, Vasilissis Amalias & Leoforos Vasilissis Olgas) were built Metro Line 1 (Irini stop). and the world of Greek costumes. 126 RUNNINGHEADATHENS •• Activities •• Runningsubhead www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS •• RunningSubhead•• Walking Tour 127 ATHENS & ATTICA

PLANETARIUM matically against a huge jutting cliff, just the crowned heads of Europe and eminent The underpass emerges to the right of Athens claims to have the world’s largest off the coast, and has a quaint old-world at- politicians stayed. The Nazis made it their the former royal palace, now the Parliament and most technologically advanced digital mosphere thanks to the regular clientele of headquarters during WWII. The hotel was building (4; p125 ). Backtrack to the forecourt Planetarium (off Map p100 ; %210 946 9600; www elderly citizens dressed in bathing caps and the scene of an attempt to blow up the Brit- of the Parliament, where you will see the .eugenfound.edu.gr; Syngrou 387, Palio Faliro; adult €4-8, towelling gowns. ish prime minister Winston Churchill on much-photographed evzones, the presidential ATHENS & ATTICA ATHENS & ATTICA concession €5-6; h5.30-8.30pm Wed-Fri, 10.30am- Christmas Eve 1944. guards. They stand sentinel under the strik- 8.30pm Sat & Sun). The 280-seat planetarium, ACTIVITIES To the left of the metro entrance you can ing Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, which with a 950-sq-metre hemispherical dome, Diving see a section of the ancient cemetery and the depicts a slain soldier and has inscriptions offers 3-D virtual trips to the galaxy, as well The Aegean Dive Centre (%210 894 5409; www.adc.gr; Peisistratos aqueduct (2), which was unearthed with excerpts of Pericles’ epitaph. Time as IMAX movies and other high-tech shows cnr Zamanou & Pandoras, Glyfada; beginners course from €400, during metro excavations. your visit to catch the changing of the guard about Ancient Greece. There is simultaneous day/night dives €35/40) organises dives at a variety Take the metro underpass to cross from (5; p125), every hour on the hour. narration in English (€1). The planetarium is of sites between Vouliagmeni and Cape Soun- the square to the Parliament, stopping en Duck into the lush National Gardens (6; p124 ) part of the Eugenides Foundation, a progres- ion. Prices include all diving equipment. route at the upper hall of Syntagma metro sta- to escape the traffic and exit near the well- sive scientific and educational institution. tion (3; p122 ), showpiece of the city’s swish preserved ruins of the Roman Baths (7; p119), Enter from Penteli. Golf metro system. Glass cases at the southern uncovered during metro excavation works. Take the metro to Syngrou-Fix, then the Athens’ only course is the international stand- end of the huge marble hall display finds Continue along Leoforos Vasilissis Amalias No 550 or B2 bus to the Onassio stop and ard 18-hole, par 72 Glyfada Golf Club (%210 894 uncovered during construction, while the to Vassilissis Olgas. To your left is the statue take the underpass across the road. 6820; www.athensgolfclub.com ; off Konstantinos Karamanli; western wall has been preserved like a trench (8) of Lord Byron being embraced by Hellas, 9-/18-hole green fees €40/52.50). Clubs and buggies at an archaeological dig. who seems to be plucking a feather from his Beaches are available for hire. Bookings are required head. Many tourists forget that Athens is a coastal for weekends and public holidays. Crossing the road, you will see the strik- city, but there are some decent beaches WALK FACTS ing columns of the Temple of Olympian Zeus within easy distance of the city centre. The Skiing Start Syntagma (9; p118 ), while ahead of you teetering on closest are along the coast towards Glyfada The nearest ski fields to Athens are at Mt Finish Syntagma the edge of the traffic, is Hadrian’s Arch (10; (p99 ), though the best of these are organised Parnassos (p237 ), three hours northwest, Duration Three to four hours p118 ), the ornate gateway erected to mark and charge admission (between €4 and €15 and Kalavryta ( p170 ) in the Peloponnese. the boundary of Hadrian’s Athens. per adult). They’re usually open between The season usually lasts from mid-January 0 200 m 8am and dusk, later during heatwaves, and to March. Day excursions to the Parnassos WALKING TOUR 0 0.1 miles include sun beds, umbrellas and facilities like and Kalavryta are organised by Trekking Monastiraki changing rooms, children’s playgrounds and Hellas ( p130) and Klaoudatos (Map p100 ; %210 Perikleous Ka rageorgi cafés. The fancier ones have watersports and 825 6840; www.klaoudatos.gr; Patision 52). 25 Plateia Servias 1 Monastirakiou Ermou private cabanas. Monastiraki Plateia Plateia 2 Dimopratiriou Syntagmatos There are free beaches at Palio Faliro WALKING TOUR Syntagma 24 Plateia 4 (Edem), Kavouri and Glyfada. This walk takes in most of the main sites 23 Mi 3 Mitropoleos 26 tropoleos 5

Eolou s The closest beaches to Athens are at in Athens. It involves just over one hour’s Areos Plateia u 27 Othonos De o xi Arhaia e ppo l P u k a % Agoras i nd Alimo (Akti Tou Iliou; 210 985 5169; Mon-Fri adult/ walking, but can take up to four hours al- s ro Pelopida i sou os n llon Agias Filotheis po A Nikis T 21 M Peikilis h child €5/4, Sat & Sun adult/child €7/4) and Agios Kos- lowing for lingering at various sites and a Sk 20 o D u 22 io oufou Tower gen k Xenofontos mas o i , while the better (and pricier) beaches few detours. us d National of the i d Plaka Gardens o Winds n are just south of Glyfada, including Asteras The walk begins at the fountain at Plateia u 18 o 6 n Ky i 19 rr l is l Beach (%210 894 1620; www.balux-Septem; Mon-Fri to s Syntagma. The square has been a favourite u e Klepsidra l a u i i Lyssiou rido l Café pe F a a Ad I €6, Sat & Sun €10) and Varkiza (%210 897 2414; www place for protests and rallies ever since the ss K m le o F rianou Plateia A d 28 r Rallou is .yabanaki.gr; Mon-Fri adult/child €5.50/3.50, Sat & Sun adult/ rally that led to the granting of a constitu- o s 17 Pry u Manou is Ancient ta 29 il 16 nio 15 s child €6.30/3.50) Agora orias u Plateia a tion on 3 September 1843, declared by King The Anafiotika 31 V Sotiros s 30 ro These beaches can be reached by tram and Otho from the balcony of the royal palace. T o ri f p o o e d ineon 32 L then buses travelling south from Glyfada. In 1944 the first round of the civil war began o Hatzimihali n Kydath lo Angelikis Deda u There is also good (free) swimming at here after police opened fire on a communist Acropolis 14 S Plateia t Zappeio r Filomousou a 7 Palace Shinias, Marathon and Vravrona in the rally, while in 1954 it was the location of the t s o Eterias do n pi 12 o es s h u north, though these take much longer to first demonstration demanding the enosis T o 11 k 8 13 G a ou tt get to and are best reached by car. (union) of Cyprus with Greece. ra i Epimenidou Lys P Theatre ikr Zappeio of T ato You can swim year-round at Limni Vouliag- Standing facing the metro station, to h us Gardens r Dionysos a s Le menis (%210 896 2239; www.limnivouliagmeni.gr; adult/ your left is the historic Hotel Grande Bretagne y of l

l yronos V o 10 as

V u O lg child under 5yr €7/free; h7am-8pm), a part-saltwa- (1; above), the grandest of Athens’ hotels. as Makrygianni Dionys ter/part-springwater lake whose temperature Built in 1862 as a 60-room mansion for iou Are opagito never falls below 21°C and is known for its visiting dignitaries, it was converted into a u 9 therapeutic mineral qualities. It is set dra- hotel in 1872 and became the place where 128 RUNNINGHEADATHENS •• Walking •• Runningsubhead Tour www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com RUNNINGHEAD •• ATHENS RunningSubhead •• Courses 129 ATHENS & ATTICA

Cross over Leoforos Vasilissis Amalias and while the Museum of Greek Popular Instruments Ermou, where you can turn left into Ath- amusement park complex. Kidom is aimed at head right towards Lysikratous, where you (20; p123 ) is just ahead on Diogenous. As ens’ main shopping drag, or right to return younger children. It’s a pricey but sure way to will make a left turn into Plaka. Ahead on you turn onto Pelopida you will see the Gate to Syntagma. keep kids entertained for a while. your right you will see the ruins of a roman of the Muslim seminary (21), built in 1721 and The Attica Zoological Park (off Map pp106-7 ; %210 monument in the forecourt of the 11th to destroyed in a fire in 1911, and the Fethiye COURSES 663 4724; www.atticapark.gr; Yalou, Spata; adult/child 3-12yr ATHENS & ATTICA ATHENS & ATTICA 12th century Church of Agia Ekaterini (11). Mosque (22) on the site of the Agora. If you are serious about learning Greek, sev- €11/9; h9am-sunset) isn’t one of the world’s great Continuing ahead you will reach the Cho- Follow the road around the Agora, then eral places offer intensive courses for begin- zoos but you can see lions, zebras, apes, birds, regic Monument of Lysikrates (12). This monu- turn right into Peikilis and right again into ners and various levels of proficiency. reptiles and other animals if you make the ment was built in 334 BC to commemorate Areos. Ahead on your right are the ruins of Athens Centre (Map p100 ; %210 701 2268; www trek out to Spata, near the airport. To get a win in a choral festival. The reliefs on the Hadrian’s Library (23; p119 ). Next to it is the .athenscentre.gr; Arhimidous 48, Mets) Occupying a fine there take bus 319 from Doukissis Plakentias monument depict the battle between Di- Museum of Traditional Greek Ceramics (24; %210 324 neoclassical building in a quiet residential suburb, the metro station. onysos and the Tyrrhenian pirates, whom 2066; Areos 1, Monastiraki; adult/concession €3/2; h10am- centre’s immersion courses (€640) pack 60 hours of classes You can always escape the heat and amuse the god had transformed into dolphins. 2pm Wed-Mon), housed in the 1759 Mosque of into three or four weeks. It also runs cheaper conversation, the kids with a virtual-reality tour of ancient It is the earliest known monument using Tzistarakis. After Independence it lost its grammar and business courses. Greece at the Foundation for the Hellenic World Corinthian capitals externally. It stands in minaret and was used as a prison. Hellenic Cultural Centre (Map pp104-5 ; %/fax 210 (p125 ) or check out the latest digital technol- what was once part of the Street of Tripods You are now in Monastiraki, the colourful, 523 8149; www.hcc.edu.gr; Halkokondyli 50, Omonia) ogy at the impressive Planetarium (p126 ). (13; Modern Tripodon), where winners of chaotic square, teeming with street vendors. To Ideal for people without a lot of time, the centre squeezes ancient dramatic and choral contests dedi- the left is the metro station and the flea market 40 hours of class time and 20 hours of excursion time into TOURS cated their tripod trophies to Dionysos. (25; p144 ), and you won’t fail to notice the two weeks (€650). In August, classes are held on an island. Athens Sightseeing Public Bus Line (%185; www.oasa In the 18th century, the monument was souvlaki aromas wafting from Mitropoleos. Hellenic-American Union (Map pp106-7 ; %210 368 .gr; fare €5), bus route 400, covers 20 key loca- incorporated into the library of a French Turn right at the mosque into Pandrosou. 0900; www.hau.gr; Massalias 22, Kolonaki) This well-regarded tions in Athens, from the Archaeological Capuchin convent, in which Lord Byron This relic of the old Turkish bazaar is full centre runs courses that last three to 10 weeks (from €400). Museum to the markets and ancient sites. stayed in 1810–11 and wrote Childe Harold. of souvenir shops. The street is named after Buses run half-hourly between 7.30am and The convent was destroyed by fire in 1890. King Cecrops’ daughter, Pandrosos, who was For information on language courses on the 9pm; tickets can only be purchased on board. Facing the monument, turn left and then the first priestess of Athens. Pandrosou leads islands, see p721. Tickets are valid for 24 hours and can be right into Epimenidou. At the top of the steps, to the Athens Cathedral (26). The cathedral has used on all public transport, excluding the turn right into Stratonos, which skirts the little architectural merit, which isn’t surpris- ATHENS FOR CHILDREN airport services. Acropolis. Just ahead you will see the Church of ing considering that it was constructed from Athens is short on playgrounds but there are Four main companies run similar pricey St George of the Rock (14), which marks the entry the masonry of over 50 razed churches and activities to keep kids amused. Stroll through organised city tours around Athens: to the Anafiotika quarter (15). The picturesque from the designs of several architects. Next the shady National Gardens (p124 ), where there CHAT (Map pp102-3 ; %210 323 0827; www.chatours.gr; maze of little whitewashed houses is the legacy to it stands the smaller, more appealing and is a playground, duck pond and minizoo, or Xenofontos 9, Syntagma;) of the stonemasons from the small Cycladic significant Church of Agios Eleftherios (27; p119 ). go to the War Museum (p123 ), where the kids GO Tours (Map p108 ; %210 921 9555; Athanasiou 20) island of Anafi who were brought in to build Just past this church turn right into Agias can climb into the cockpit of a WWII plane Hop In Sightseeing (%210 428 5500; www.hopin the king’s palace after Independence. It’s a Filotheis, which is lined with buildings be- and other aircraft in the courtyard. There is .com) Tour bookings are only taken over the telephone. peaceful spot, with brightly painted olive-oil longing to the Greek church. The mansion also a fully enclosed shady playground in the Key Tours (Map p108 ; %210 923 3166/266; www cans brimming with flowers bedecking the with the elaborate gold doors is the residence Zappeio Gardens (p124 ). .keytours.com; Kaliroïs 4, Makrygianni) walls of the tiny gardens in summer. of the Archbishop of Greece. The Hellenic Children’s Museum (Map pp102-3 ; Following the narrow path that winds Turn left into Flessa, then right to reach %210 331 2995; Kydathineon 14, Plaka; admission free; Tours include a half-day sightseeing tour of around the houses, hand-painted signs point- the peculiar junkyard landmark that is Tom’s h10am-2pm Tue-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun) is more of Athens (€65), usually doing little more than ing to the Acropolis lead you to the tiny Church Recycled Garden (28). You might even catch a a play centre than a museum. It has a games pointing out all the major sights and stopping of Agios Simeon (16). It looks like a dead end but glimpse of the eccentric Irishman working on room and a number of ‘exhibits’, such as a at the Acropolis; and an ‘Athens by Night’ persevere and you will emerge at the Acropolis one of his wacky political artistic statements. mock-up of a metro tunnel, for children to tour (€78), which includes a taverna dinner road. Turn right and then left into Prytaniou, Follow the pedestrian street to busy Ky- explore. Parents must supervise their children in Plaka with folk dancing. veering right after 50m into Tholou. The yel- dathineon, and Plateia Filomousou Eterias, at all times. These companies also run half-day trips low-ochre building at No 5 is the old Athens which is packed with cafés and outdoor The Museum of Children’s Art (Map pp102-3 ; %210 to Ancient Corinth (€53) and Cape Sounion university (17), built by the Venetians. The tavernas. Turn left and a little way along 331 2621; Kodrou 9, Plaka; admission free; h10am-2pm (€50); day tours to Delphi (including lunch Turks used it as public offices and it housed you will come to the Church of Metamorfosis Tue-Sat, 11am-2pm Sun, closed Aug) has a room set €120), the Corinth Canal, Mycenae, Nafplio Athens University from 1837 to 1841. (29), opposite the Museum of Greek Folk Art (30; aside where children can let loose their crea- and Epidavros (similar prices); and rather A few metres along, turn right on Klep- p122 ). If you’ve got the time, you could also tive energy. Crayons and paper are supplied. overpriced cruises to Aegina, Poros and sidras down some narrow steps that lead to squeeze in a visit to the nearby Centre of Folk A €1 fee applies only to children attending Hydra (including lunch €122). the little Klepsidra Café, where you can have Art & Tradition (31; p123), on Hatzimihali An- special programmes. Hotels act as booking agents for at least a rest stop or continue down to the ruins of gelikis, or take in some European art at the Further afield, the enormous Allou Fun Park one company and often offer substantial the Roman Agora ( 18; p118 ). Frissiras Museum ( 32; p123 ). & Kidom (off Map p100 ; %210 425 6999; Leoforos Kifisou discounts. To the right of the Tower of the Winds, Alternatively, continue along Kydathineon S & Petrou Rali, Renti; admission free, rides €2-4; h5pm-1am Hop In Sightseeing offers a hop-on/hop- on Kyrristou are the Turkish Baths (19; p123), and turn left into Nikis, head all the way to Mon-Fri, 10am-midnight Sat & Sun) is Athens’ biggest off city tour option, which allows you to get 130 RUNNINGHEADATHENS •• Festivals •• Runningsubhead & Events www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.comBook accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS•• RunningSubhead •• Sleeping 131 ATHENS & ATTICA

off at specific points on a set route as many The festival programme should be avail- tails are normally announced last-minute so season, but most places offer considerable dis- times as you like. able from the beginning of February on the check the local English-language press. counts, especially in low season and online. Scoutway (Map pp102-3 ; %210 729 9111; www.scout festival website and at the Hellenic Festival box Most of the top city hotels are around Syn- way.gr; Ptolemeon 1, Pangrati), run by the Scouts As- office (Map pp104-5 ; %210 327 2000; www.hellenicfesti Other Festivals & Events tagma. Plaka is the most popular place for sociation of Greece, offers alternative activities val.gr; arcade, Panepistimiou 39, Syntagma; h8.30am-4pm A range of cultural events takes place at the travellers to stay and has a choice of accom- ATHENS & ATTICA ATHENS & ATTICA for tourists, from hiking trips and visits to Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat). Tickets are not available Technopolis (Map p101 ; %210 346 7322; www.cityof modation across the price spectrum. mines to schooner sailing trips and themed until three weeks before the performance athens.gr), the funky former Gasworks complex There are also some good pensions and walks around ancient Athens accompanied and sell out quickly. Tickets may also be turned cultural centre, including the six-day midrange hotels south of the Acropolis, by actors. bought on the day of the performance at the European Jazz Festival at the end of May/early around the quiet neighbourhoods of Makry- Trekking Hellas (Map pp102-3 ; %210 331 0323; www theatre box offices, but queues can be very June and the two-week International Dance Fes- gianni and Koukaki. .outdoorsgreece.com; Filellinon 7, Plaka) runs activities long. There are half-price student discounts tival in July. Around Monastiraki and Omonia, many ranging from Athens walking tours (€40) to for most performances on production of an Both events come under the auspices of the of the area’s run-down hotels have been up- bungee jumping in the Corinth Canal (€60). ISIC card. City of Athens (%195; www.cityofathens.gr), which graded, with some bold attempts to transform Historian and archaeologist Andrew Far- Special buses to Epidavros, departing also organises free concerts and music and them into hip boutique hotels, but there is rington leads Athenian Days (%210 689 3828; www from bus terminal A, are run by KTEL (%210 dance performances across the city through- still a general seediness that detracts from .atheniandays.co.uk; per hr from €50), private tailor- 512 2516; return €20) on Friday and Saturday, re- out the summer. the area, especially at night. Omonia has a made themed tours around Athens for up turning after the show. The three-day international Synch Electronic plethora of largely unattractive accommo- to six people. You can also take a dinner cruise (Little Epidav- Music & Digital Arts Festival (%210 628 6287; www dation, mostly characterless modern C-class ros adult/concession €55/30, Epidavros incl bus adult/conces- .synch.gr) is held in July at Technopolis in Gazi. places or cheap bordellos, where you won’t FESTIVALS & EVENTS sion €60/35). Coaches leave from Syntagma and Tickets are available from the Hellenic Festival get a wink of sleep. Hellenic Festival Plateia Klafthmonos around 5pm. The boat box office (Map pp104-5 ; %210 327 2000; www.hellenicfes The best rooms in Athens fill up quickly in The annual Hellenic Festival, really a collec- arrives at Epidavros at 7.30pm. Little Epi- tival.gr; arcade, Panepistimiou 39, Syntagma; h8.30am-4pm July and August, so it’s wise to book ahead to tion of festivals, is Greece’s most important davros is a short walk from the port, while Mon-Fri, 9am-2pm Sat). avoid a fruitless walk in the heat. cultural event, running from late May to Oc- the Epidavros theatre is a 15-minute bus Greece’s leading artists and international If you arrive in the city late at night and tober. It features a top line-up of local and ride away. Supper is served on the return acts can be seen during the summer at two can’t find a place to stay, don’t sleep out. It is international music, dance and theatre. leg. Book through the festival box office. stunning venues in former quarries: the Vy- illegal and could be dangerous. The major events in the Athens Festival t a k e ronas Festival (%210 760 9340; www.festivalbyrona.gr) place at the superb Odeon of Herodes Atticus Lykavittos Summer Theatre & Concerts held at the Theatro Vrahon in the suburb of Budget (p115 ), one of the world’s most historic ven- The Hellenic Festival box office also takes Vyronas; and the Petras Festival (%210 506 5400; HOSTELS ues. Set against a floodlit Acropolis, patrons bookings for the summer theatre and con- Petroupoli) in western Athens. Programmes and Athens International Youth Hostel (Map pp104-5 ; %210 sit on cushions on the worn marble seats that cert series held at the Lykavittos Theatre (Map tickets for both are available from Metropolis 523 2540; www.aiyh-victorhugo.com; Victor Hugo 16; dm €10; Athenians have been entertained on for cen- pp106-7 ; %210 722 7233). The hill-top theatre Music stores (p144 ). a) Under new management, this hostel was turies. The festival, which celebrated its 50th provides a spectacular setting for an eclectic Popular rock venue Gagarin 205 runs the refurbished in 2006. As well as dorms, there year in 2005, has been going from strength to annual programme. Gagarin Open Air Festival (%210 854 7600; www are double and four-bed rooms with air-con. strength and presents a diverse programme of .gagarin205.gr), a summer music concert se- The same management has new budget rooms international standing, ranging from ancient Rockwave Festival ries, at the former Olympic baseball venue and hostel-style accommodation in Omonia’s theatre and classical music to contemporary The annual international Rockwave Festival at Elliniko. Athens Easy Hostel (Map pp104-5 ; %210 524 3211; www dance and world music. Events are held in (%210 882 0426; www.rockwavefestival.gr) has been In September, the annual Athens Interna- .athenseasyhostel.com; Satovrianidou 26), which was venues around town. growing in stature and popularity and is now tional Film Festival (%210 606 1413; www.aiff.gr) takes going to get a much-needed upgrade. The Hellenic festival incorporates the held at Terra Vibe, a huge parkland venue place at the Apollon & Attikon cinemas (Map pp102-3 ; Youth Hostel No 5 (Map p100 ; %210 751 9530; Epidavros Festival, which presents ancient on the outskirts of Athens. Rock fans can %210 323 6811; Stadiou 19, Syntagma). www.athens-yhostel.com; Damareos 75, Pangrati; dm €12) Greek drama, as well as modern theatre, expect to see some of the world’s top acts – These dorms are very basic and dated, but at the famous Ancient Theatre of Epidav- the 2007 line-up included Robert Plant and SLEEPING it’s a cheery place in a quiet residential neigh- ros (p187 ) in the Peloponnese, about two Metallica. Tickets are available from Ticket Hotels in Athens received a much-needed bourhood. Owner Yiannis is something of hours west of Athens. Performances are held House (Map pp104-5 ; %210 360 8366; Panepistimiou 42). overhaul as a consequence of the Olympics. a philosopher, and visitors are encouraged every Friday and Saturday night during July Terra Vibe is in Malakassa, at the 37th km Older hotels were totally reconstructed, others to add their jokes and words of wisdom to and August. on the Athens–Lamia Hwy. Special buses were refurbished, new chic boutique hotels the hostel notice boards. Facilities include The Musical July festival takes place at the are put on by organisers and there is also a opened and even the shabbiest places were coin-operated hot showers (€0.50), communal lovely 3rd-century-BC Little Theatre of An- cheap camp site for ticketholders. given a coat of paint. Though prices have sky- kitchen, TV room and laundry. Take trol- cient Epidavros (p187 ), set among the olive rocketed as a result, you can expect a higher leybus 2 or 11 from Syntagma to the Filolaou groves and pine trees in the seaside village of August Moon Festival standard of accommodation. stop on Frinis. Epidavros. Performances are held on Friday Every August on the night of the full moon, Athens is a noisy city and Athenians keep Hostel Aphrodite (Map p100 ; %210 881 0589; www and Saturday and range from Greek music musical performances are held at key historic late hours, so we’ve mostly selected hotels .hostelaphrodite.com; Einardou 12, Stathmo Larisis; dm €13-15, to classical offerings. The theatre is a 15- venues, including the Acropolis, the Roman in quiet areas, pedestrian precincts or side d/tr without bathroom €45/60, d with bathroom €50; ai) minute walk from the port. Agora and other sites around Greece. De- streets. Prices quoted here are for the high If you are prepared to be less central, this 132 RUNNINGHEADATHENS •• Sleeping •• Runningsubhead Book accommodationwww.lonelyplanet.com online at lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.comBook accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS•• RunningSubhead •• Sleeping 133 ATHENS & ATTICA

well-run hostel is a good cheap option. It’s Adams Hotel (Map pp102-3 ; %210 322 5381; arhia, this rather bland 1960s high-rise hotel from €99/121/165; a) This stylish hotel has been a 10-minute walk from the Larisis train and [email protected]; Herofontos 6, Plaka; s/d €65/80, f €140- offers cheap and clean accommodation with tastefully decorated in light, contemporary metro stations or five minutes to Viktoria. 150; a) A decent budget option in Plaka, this washing and internet facilities. Bathrooms tones. It has comfortable rooms with all the It has clean, good-sized four- and eight-bed place has simple old-fashioned rooms with were being renovated at the time of research. mod cons and decent bathrooms. There is dorms, some with en-suite bathrooms, as well TV, as well as larger family rooms. There’s a rooftop café-bar from which you can a lovely roof terrace with Acropolis views, ATHENS & ATTICA ATHENS & ATTICA as double rooms with and without private watch the action below or you can venture out which has a small Jacuzzi and sun lounges. bathrooms – many with balconies. Facilities Monastiraki & Thisio to explore one of Athens’ most interesting Central is in a handy location between Syn- include internet access, laundry and a travel Tempi Hotel (Map pp102-3 ; %210 321 3175; www.tempi neighbourhoods. It’s a 10-minute walk from tagma and Plaka. agency. Breakfast costs from €3.50. hotel.gr; Eolou 29, Monastiraki; d/tr €60/75, without bathroom Omonia station. Hotel Achilleas (Map pp102-3 ; %210 323 3197; www Student & Travellers’ Inn (Map pp102-3 ; %210 s/d €40/54; a) This friendly, family-run place .achilleashotel.gr; Leka 21, Syntagma; s/d/tr incl breakfast 324 4808; www.studenttravellersinn.com; Kydathineon 16, on pedestrian Eolou has front rooms with bal- CAMPING €100/125/145; a) From the sleek lobby to the Plaka; dm €15-18, d/tr without bathroom €55/70, s/d/tr with conies overlooking pretty Plateia Agia Irini, There are no camping grounds in central Ath- rooms, the Achilleas has been tastefully reno- bathroom €50/60/81; ai) This popular and well- with its flower market and church, and side ens. The EOT’s Camping in Greece booklet vated. The rooms are large and airy with TV run place in the heart of Plaka has a mixture views of the Acropolis. The popular bar next lists sites in the Attica region. and fridge, and those on the top floor open of dorms and simple rooms for up to four door may make it noisy at night. The rooms Athens Camping (%210 581 4114; www.camping onto garden balconies. There are large family people, with or without private bathroom and have satellite TV, but the bathrooms are still athens.com.gr; Leoforos Athinon 198, Haidari; camp sites per rooms (€165). air-conditioning. It has a cheery yellow and basic and the top-floor rooms are small and adult/tent €7/5; hyear-round) This unattractive Hotel Adrian (Map pp102-3 ; %210 322 1553; www blue colour scheme and some rooms have fine quite a hike. There is a communal kitchen. place, 7km west of the city centre on the road .douros-hotels.com; Adrianou 74, Plaka; s/d/tr incl buffet old timber floors. Facilities include a pleasant Hotel Erechthion (Map p101 ; %210 345 9606; fax to Corinth, is the nearest camping ground to breakfast €110/135/150, s/d with view €125/150; a) This shady courtyard with large-screen TV, inter- 210 346 2756; Flammarion 8 & Agias Marinis, Thisio; s/d/tr Athens. It has reasonable facilities. small hotel is conveniently located off Plateia net access and a travel service. Breakfast costs incl breakfast €50/71/90; a) The pedestrian grand Good camp sites can be found at Shinias Arhaia Agoras in the heart of Plaka. Breakfast from €3.50 and rooms are heated in winter. promenade around Thisio has boosted the Beach ( p158), east of Athens, and near Cape is on a lovely shady terrace with Acropolis Athens Backpackers (Map p108 ; %210 922 4044; appeal of the area’s budget hotels, though sur- Sounion (p155 ). views. The well-equipped rooms have been www.backpackers.gr; Makri 12, Makrygianni; dm incl breakfast prisingly few have bothered upgrading their refurbished, are pleasant enough and have €25; ai) This friendly Australian-run hostel facilities. This hotel is slowly refurbishing its Midrange free tea and coffee. The 3rd floor rooms are right near the Acropolis metro station has rooms, many of which have great Acropolis PLAKA & SYNTAGMA the best, with large balconies overlooking six-bed dorms with en-suite bathrooms and views. They are clean and all have air-con and Acropolis House Pension (Map pp102-3 ; %210 322 2344; the square. lockers, and rooms for families. No curfew, TV. The glass cabinet of kitsch in the foyer sets [email protected]; Kodrou 6-8, Plaka; d €51-79, s/d/tr incl Plaka Hotel (Map pp102-3 ; %210 322 2096; www a barbecue in the courtyard, full kitchen and the tone for this place. breakfast €60/87/113; a) This atmospheric family- .plakahotel.gr; Kapnikareas 7 & Mitropoleos, Monastiraki; s/d/tr laundry facilities, high-speed internet access, run pension is in a beautifully preserved, 19th- €120/145/165; a) It’s hard to beat the Acropolis and a great rooftop bar with cheap drinks Koukaki century house, which retains many original views from the rooftop garden at this refur- and Acropolis views make it a popular place. Marble House Pension (Map p108 ; %210 923 4058, features and has lovely painted walls. There bished hotel, which you also enjoy from the Rates include bedding, but towels cost €2. The 210 922 8294; www.marblehouse.gr; Zini 35a, Koukaki; d/tr are discounts for stays of three days or more. top-floor rooms. Rooms have light timber same management has dorms (€27) and excel- without bathroom €44/51, s/d/tr with bathroom €44/50/57; Some rooms have bathrooms across the furniture and floors, and satellite TV, though lent studio accommodation (doubles €100 to a) This pension in a quiet cul-de-sac is one hall. the bathrooms are on the small side. There’s €120) in another building nearby. of Athens’ better budget hotels, though it is a Niki Hotel (Map pp102-3 ; %210 322 0913; www probably better value elsewhere if you can’t fair way from the tourist areas. Rooms have .nikihotel.gr; Nikis 27, Syntagma; s/d/q incl buffet breakfast get a room with a view. HOTELS been updated, with new pine beds and linen. €80/97/200; a) This small hotel bordering Plaka & Syntagma All rooms have a fridge and ceiling fans and Plaka has undergone one of the more stylish MONASTIRAKI & THISIO John’s Place (Map pp102-3 ; %210 322 9719; Patroou 5; some have air-con (€9 extra). Breakfast costs makeovers in the area, with a contemporary Hotel Attalos (Map pp104-5 ; %210 321 2801; www s/d/tr without bathroom €35/55/75; a) This small, an extra €5. design and furnishings. The rooms are well .attaloshotel.com; Athinas 29, Psyrri; s/d/tr €72/89/106; old-style, family-run place is ideally situated Hotel Tony (Map p108 ; %210 923 0561; www.hotel appointed and there is a two-level suite for a) Though décor has never been its strong just west of Syntagma and the timber stair- tony.gr; Zaharitsa 26; s/d/tr €45/60/75; a) This clean, families, with balconies offering Acropolis point, this nonetheless comfortable place has case, old doors and high ceilings give it some well-maintained pension has been upgraded, views. an Olympic makeover. Its best feature is the charm. The furniture and bathrooms have with all but one of the rooms having en-suite Athens Cypria Hotel (Map pp102-3 ; %210 323 8034; rooftop bar that offers wonderful views of the been updated, and each room has a hand bathrooms. Air-con costs €9 extra. All have www.athenscypria.com; Diomias 5, Syntagma; s/d €80/110; Acropolis by night, and the rooms at the back basin. Some have air-conditioning, but bath- fridges. Tony also has roomy, well-equipped a) Tucked in a side street off Ermou, this with Acropolis views from the balconies. All rooms are all shared. studio apartments nearby, which are similarly small, friendly hotel is a little characterless, rooms have TV. Adonis Hotel (Map pp102-3 ; %210 324 9737; fax 210 priced and excellent for families or longer but it is modern and comfortable, with good Hotel Cecil (Map pp104-5 ; %210 321 7909; www.cecil 323 1602; Kodrou 3; s/d incl breakfast €55/89; a) This stays. facilities and a very handy location. There are .gr; Athinas 39, Monastiraki; s/d incl breakfast €75/104; a) comfortable, if bland, pension on a quiet street also family rooms (including breakfast €195) This charming old hotel has beautiful high, represents one of the best deals around. The Omonia & Surrounds and discounts for children. There are small moulded ceilings, polished timber floors rooms are neat and come with TV. There are Hotel Exarchion (Map pp104-5 ; %210 380 0731; www balconies but no great view. and an original cage-style lift. The rooms great views of the Acropolis from the 4th-floor .exarchion.com; Themistokleous 55, Exarhia; s/d/tr €40/50/60; Central Hotel (Map pp102-3 ; %210 323 4357; www are tastefully furnished and equipped with rooms, and from the rooftop bar. ai) Right in the heart of bohemian Ex- .centralhotel.gr; Apollonos 21, Plaka; s/d/tr incl buffet breakfast TV, but no fridges. There are two connecting 134 RUNNINGHEADATHENS •• Sleeping •• Runningsubhead Book accommodationwww.lonelyplanet.com online at lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com RUNNINGHEAD •• ATHENS RunningSubhead •• Eating 135 ATHENS & ATTICA

rooms with a shared bathroom for families or lots of brass and timber and stylish classic individually decorated and recently renovated. generally ordinary and overpriced, particu- friends (€145). furnishings with a modern edge, along with all A luxury spa centre opened in 2005. larly at the outdoor restaurants around Plateia Arion Hotel (Map pp104-5 ; %210 324 0417; www.arion the expected amenities. The rooftop garden, Semiramis Hotel (off Map pp106-7 ; %210 628 4400; Filomousou on Kydathineon, where waiters hotel.gr; Agiou Dimitriou 18, Psyrri; s/d/tr €100/125/145) This restaurant and bar have spectacular views and www.semiramisathens.com; Trikoupi 48, Kefalari; d/pool tout tirelessly for trade. three-star hotel overlooking Agiou Dimitriou it is a short walk to the Acropolis and Plaka. bungalow/ste incl breakfast from €180/260/350; pas) The city’s best restaurants are scattered ATHENS & ATTICA ATHENS & ATTICA Sq has the standard mod cons and is simply This designer hotel with a striking lollipop- around the centre and in the suburbs. furnished with marble bathrooms. It’s in a AROUND OMONIA coloured façade is the hippest place to stay if you Athens’ dining scene has become increas- handy location, a short walk to Monastiraki Baby Grand Hotel (Map pp104-5 ; %210 325 0900; www don’t need to be downtown (it’s 15km northeast ingly sophisticated. You’ll find modern tav- station and the nightlife of Psyrri. .classicalhotels.com; Athinas 65, Omonia; s/d incl buffet break- of town). Renowned industrial designer Karim ernas serving new-style Greek cuisine as well Magna Grecia (Map pp102-3 ; %210 324 0314; www fast €110/120; i) The reception desk created out Rashid has bold interior showcases for the as anything from fancy French restaurants to .magnagreciahotel.com; Mitropoleos 54, Monastiraki; s/d incl of two old Mini Coopers sets the tone for this owner’s contemporary art collection, while the cheap Indian food. breakfast €115/130; ai) This historic build- funky revamped hotel with graffiti art in the amorphous-shaped pool and high-tech gadgets Psyrri is full of restaurants and ouzeries ing, on busy Mitropoleos opposite the ca- rooms and free internet. There’s a decent, if in the rooms are impressive. (mezes-style eateries), though it is getting thedral, has great Acropolis views from the unfortunately named, restaurant. Though it’s Hilton (Map pp106-7 ; %210 728 1000; www.athens touristy and expensive. Some fine and trendy front rooms and rooftop terrace. There are on busy Athinas, it’s in a handy location. .hilton.com; Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias 46, Ilissia; r/ste from restaurants have sprouted around the former 12 individually decorated rooms with painted Fresh Hotel (Map pp104-5 ; %210 524 8511; www €206/421; pas) The Athens Hilton is a Gasworks at Gazi. Most places in these neigh- murals, named after Greek islands. The rooms .freshhotel.gr; Sofokleous 26 & Klisthenous, Omonia; d/ste incl vast concrete edifice that looks more like a bourhoods only open for dinner, and many have Cocomat eco-mattresses and furniture, buffet breakfast from €150/350; as) This designer 1950s housing project than a luxury hotel, places in Psyrri shut in summer. DVD, internet access and minibar. hotel led the trend for hip hotels in the gritty but inside, no expense has been spared. It Monastiraki is great for souvlaki and cheap Omonia area. Once inside, the seediness gives has lashings of marble and bronze, enormous eats, while fancier restaurants line Adrianou MAKRYGIANNI & KOUKAKI way to chic rooms and suites with individual chandeliers and somewhat giddy designer along the rail line. Acropolis View (Map p108 ; %210 921 7303-5; www colour schemes, clever lighting and all the carpets. The excellent but pricey Milos res- Exarhia has lots of small ouzeries and tav- .acropolisview.gr; Webster 10, Makrygianni; s/d/tr incl buf- mod cons. The fantastic rooftop – with pool, taurant is downstairs and there is a lovely ernas to choose from, and prices are tailored fet breakfast from €55/80/100; ai) This small, bar and restaurant with Acropolis views – pool. to suit the pockets of the district’s student friendly hotel has one of the quietest settings couldn’t be further from the world below. Electra Palace (Map pp102-3 ; %210 337 0000; www clientele, while trendy new restaurants are around, just south of the Odeon of Herodes .electrahotels.gr; Navarhou Nikodimou 18, Plaka; d/ste opening along Benaki. Chic Kolonaki has Atticus. There are indeed views of the Acropo- Top End incl breakfast from €190/560; pais) Plaka’s some of the city’s most expensive restaurants, lis from some of the rooms, although the best There are some lovely luxury hotels in Athens, smartest hotel was completely refurbished though you can find some good-value eater- vistas are from the roof terrace. Other rooms offering the odd discount in low season. and extended in 2003 and given a new neo- ies too. look out towards Filopappou Hill. Rooms are Herodion (Map p108 ; %210 923 6832; www.herodion classical façade. You can have breakfast under Overall, eating out in Athens is no longer plainly decorated but are well equipped and .com; Rovertou Galli 4; s/d incl breakfast €145/182; aiw) the Acropolis on your balcony in the front cheap, but you can still find decent value have new bathrooms. This elegant four-star hotel is geared towards rooms (from €325). The design is classic, the in old-style tavernas. We’ve stuck largely Art Gallery Hotel (Map p108 ; %210 923 8376; Ereh- the well-heeled traveller. The rooms are small rooms well appointed and there is an indoor to downtown Athens restaurants and a few thiou 5, Koukaki; s/d €90/105; a) This small, family- but well appointed, with super-comfortable swimming pool and gym as well as a rooftop further afield worth the trek. Unless stated run, friendly place is full of personal touches beds. There is a lovely atrium restaurant and pool with Acropolis views. otherwise, all the restaurants listed here are and artwork by an artist from the family who laptops with high-speed internet connection Hotel Grande BretagneT0E95 (Map pp102-3 ; %210 333 open daily for lunch and dinner. once had her studio upstairs. Some rooms are in the foyer. 0000; www.grandebretagne.gr; Vasileos Georgiou 1, Syntagma; a little small but all have been refurbished, Periscope (Map pp106-7 ; %210 729 7200; www.peri r/ste from €280/420; pai) If you are wealthy, Budget with new bathrooms. Original furniture from scope.gr; Haritos 22, Kolonaki; r €155-195, ste incl breakfast the place to stay in Athens is – and always has SYNTAGMA the ’60s has been retained in the communal from €270; a) Right in chic Kolonaki overlook- been – the deluxe Hotel Grande Bretagne on Ariston (Map pp102-3 ; %210 322 7626; Voulis 10; pies areas. There is a balcony with Acropolis views ing Lykavittos, Periscope is a smart, modern Plateia Syntagma. €1-1.50; h10am-4pm Mon-Fri) If you are after a where you can have a generous breakfast (€7). hotel with industrial décor and many clever Built in 1862 to accommodate visiting heads snack on the run, you can’t go wrong with There are a few cheaper double rooms with gadgets and design features, including the of state, it ranks among the grand hotels of the traditional tiropites (cheese pies) and their shared bathrooms. lobby slide show, the sea-level measure on the world. No other hotel in Athens can boast various permutations. This place has been Philippos Hotel (Map p108 ; %210 922 3611; www stairs, travelling TVs and aerial shots of the such a rich history. Completely renovated in around since 1910, serving the best range of .philipposhotel.com; Mitseon 3, Makrygianni; s/d incl breakfast city on the ceilings. The penthouse’s private 2002, it still retains an old-world grandeur. tasty, freshly baked pies with all manner of €107/139; a) This smart, modern, popular hotel rooftop Jacuzzi has sensational views. There is a divine spa, and the rooftop restau- fillings. has been spruced up. The rooms are small but St George Lycabettus Hotel (Map pp106-7 ; %210 rant and bar is a treat. Noodle Bar (Mappp102-3 ; %210 331 8585; Apollo- well appointed and there is a small double on 729 0711/19; www.sglycabettus.gr; Kleomenous 2, Kolonaki; nos 11, Syntagma; mains €5.60-7.90; h1pm-1am, closed the roof, which has a private terrace. d from €180; pas) It’s a bit of a hike up the EATING Sun) This low-key noodle café has decently Hera Hotel (Map p108 ; %210 923 6682; www.hera hill to this boutique-style hotel at the foot of Plaka is where most visitors wind up eating, at priced Asian noodle and rice dishes as well hotel.gr; Falirou 9; s/d incl breakfast €120/135, ste from €200; Lykavittos Hill, in chic Kolonaki. But you can least one night. Its atmospheric streets under as some soups and salads. a) This elegant boutique hotel was totally look forward to cooling off in the rooftop pool the floodlit Acropolis are lined with count- Vasilopoulos (Map pp104-5 ; Stadiou 19, Syntagma) is rebuilt but the interior design is in keeping and enjoying the spectacular view from the less restaurants, tavernas and cafés. With a one of the big supermarket chain branches in with the lovely neoclassical façade. There’s bar (and many of the rooms). The rooms are few exceptions, however, the food in Plaka is central Athens. 136 RUNNINGHEADATHENS •• Eating •• Runningsubhead www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com RUNNINGHEAD •• ATHENS RunningSubhead •• Eating 137 ATHENS & ATTICA

PLAKA MONASTIRAKI & OMONIA erna food at prices well below the Psyrri norm. Oikeio (Map pp106-7 ; %210 725 9216; Ploutarhou Glykis (Map pp102-3 ; %210 322 3925; Angelou Geronta 2; Diporto Agoras (Map pp104-5 ; %210 321 1463; cnr Thea- It’s tucked away off Plateia Iroön. Look out 15; specials €7-12; h8am-11pm, closed Sun) With mezedhes €3.50-7) In a quiet corner of Plaka, this trou & Sokratous; h8am-6pm Mon-Sat, closed Aug 1-20) for the colourful murals – the drunk leaning excellent home-style cooking, this modern casual mezedhopoleio (mezedhes restaurant) This quirky old taverna is one of the dining against a lamp post outside and the androgy- taverna lives up to its name (homey). Oikeio with a shady courtyard is mostly frequented gems of Athens. There’s no signage, only two nous women inside. is cosy on the inside and the tables on the ATHENS & ATTICA ATHENS & ATTICA by students and locals. It has a tasty selection doors leading to a rustic cellar where there’s no Telis (Map pp104-5 ;%210 324 2775; Evripidou 86; pork pavement allow you to people-watch without of mezedhes, including traditional mayirefta menu, just a few dishes that haven’t changed chops with chips €8; h8am-2am Mon-Sat) You can the normal Kolonaki bill. such as briam (oven-baked vegetables) and in years. The house speciality is revythia not get more basic than this fluoro-lit, bare- There are traditional dishes as well as pas- cuttlefish in wine. (chickpeas), usually followed by grilled fish walled, paper-tablecloth psistaria (restaurant tas and salads but try the mayirefta specials Paradosiako (Map pp102-3 ; %210 321 4121; Voulis and washed down with wine from one of the serving grilled food). Telis has been slaving like the excellent stuffed zucchini. 44a; mains €4-10) For great traditional fare at very giant barrels lining the wall. The often erratic over the flame grill, cooking his famous pork Vyrinis (Map p100 ; %210 701 2021; Arhimidous 11, fair prices you can’t beat this inconspicuous, service is part of the appeal. chops since 1978. There’s nothing else on the Pangrati; dishes €8-10; hlunch & dinner) Just behind no-frills taverna on the periphery of Plaka, Athens central market (Map pp104-5 hclosed Sun) menu – just meat and chips, Greek salad and the old Panathenaic stadium, this popular with a few tables on the footpath. There’s a This colourful market has the widest range of house wine or beer. and relaxed neighbourhood taverna has had basic menu but it’s best to choose from the whatever is in season. The fruit and vegetable an impressive face-lift but has maintained its daily specials, which include fresh and de- market (Map pp104–5 ) is on the western side EXARHIA essence and prices. licious seafood. Get there early before the of Athinas, and the meat market (Map pp104– Food Company (Map pp104-5 ; %210 380 5004; Emmanuel At Vyrinis you’ll find a lovely courtyard locals arrive. 5) is opposite, on the eastern side. The meat 63-65; dishes €4.50-6.50; %10am-2am) This Kolonaki garden, friendly waiters, simple traditional Vizantino (Map pp102-3 ; %210 322 7368; Kydathineon market section might sound like a strange favourite has found a new cheery home in Ex- fare and decent house wine. The beef kokki- 18; specials €5-9.50) This taverna is the best of the place to go for a meal but the tavernas (such arhia. The good-value casual café-style eatery nisto (type of stew in red sauce) and vegetable restaurants around Plateia Filomousou Ete- as the Epiros and Papandreou taverns) inside serves a range of healthy salads, wholesome imam are recommended. rias. Vizantino’s menu is realistically priced it are an Athenian institution, turning out dishes and hot and cold pasta and noodle and it’s popular with locals year-round. The huge quantities of tasty, traditional fare. The dishes. The cheesecake is delicious. Midrange daily specials are good value, with dishes clientele ranges from hungry market workers, Barba Gianni’s (Map pp104-5 ; %210 330 0185; PLAKA & SYNTAGMA like stuffed tomatoes, pastitsio and its excel- to elegant couples emerging from nightclubs Emmanuel 94; mains €4.50-7.50) A classic Exarhia To Kafeneio (Map pp102-3 ; %210 324 6916; cnr Tripodon lent fish soup (with fish served on the side, at 5am in search of a bowl of hangover-busting haunt, Barba Gianni’s is a popular place for & Epiharmou 1; mezedhes €3.60-6.60) To Kafeneio is a €6.80). patsas (tripe soup). traditional cooking. You can choose from cosy little place with stone walls and exposed Platanos (Map pp102-3 ; %210 321 8734; Diogenous 4; The supermarket chain Marinopoulos (Map the trays of mayirefta (ready-cooked meals) timber ceilings. mayirefta €6.50-8; hclosed Sun) This age-old Plaka pp104-5 ; Athinas 60, Omonia) has a couple of branches and daily specials at the counter. There are This place offers an interesting assortment taverna is in a pleasant setting away from the in the centre of town. delicious soups and classic meat dishes such of mezedhes from different regions of Greece, main tourist drag, with tables outside in the as beef in red sauce and baked pork in lemon, including Cretan cheese pies and aubergine courtyard under a giant plane tree. It is popu- PSYRRI washed down with barrel wine by the litre. croquettes. lar among locals and tourists for its reliable, Taverna tou Psyrri (Map pp104-5 ; %210 321 4923; Eshy- Rozalia (Map pp104-5 ; %210 330 2933; Valtetsiou 58; Tzitzikas & Mermingas (Map pp102-3 ; %210 324 delicious home-style fare, such as oven-baked lou 12; mains €6-8.50) This cheerful place is a local mains €4.50-11) This old-style Exarhia favour- 7607; Mitropoleos 12-14, Syntagma; mezedhes €5.50-9.40) potatoes with lemon and oregano. favourite, turning out good, traditional tav- ite taverna on this busy pedestrian strip is a Following the success of its two subur- family-run affair with a standard traditional ban restaurants, this bright, cheery, mod- menu. The large courtyard garden is popular ern mezedhopoleio opened in downtown SOUVLAKI HEAVEN in summer, when they have fans spraying Athens. There are several contenders for Athens’ best souvlaki, the undeniably delicious national snack – water to keep you cool. There are walls of shelves lined with the best value meal under €2. Also recommended is the unassuming Cre- Greek products, and the great range of deli- In Monastiraki, the end of Mitropoleos has become Souvlaki Central, with musicians adding tan-style kafeneio (coffee house), Meintani (Map cious and creative mezedhes puts a spin on to the area’s, at times, festive atmosphere. Thanasis (Map pp102-3 ; %210 324 4705; Mitropoleos 69, pp104-5 ; Themistokleous 63; mezedhes €3-4.50 hdinner traditional dishes. Monastiraki) is renowned for the kebab-style souvlaki, wrapped in pitta, or served on pitta with only), for excellent-value mezedhes and drinks Palia Taverna tou Psara (Map pp102-3 ; %210 grilled tomato and onions. Directly opposite, Savas (Map pp102-3 ; %210 324 5048; Mitropoleos 86, in a tiny neighbourhood hang-out with tables 321 8734; Erehtheos 16, Plaka; seafood dishes €10-12.50) Monastiraki) specialises in gyros (Greek version of döner kebab) and has more Middle Eastern dishes on the sloping pedestrian street in the heart Hidden away from the main hustle and bustle like pastourmali, a tasty pastrami and cheese pie. of Exarhia. of Plaka, this fish tavern is a cut above the rest. For traditional pork skewers in pitta, there’s the hole-in-the-wall Kostas (Map pp102-3 ; Adrianou At Palia Taverna tou Psara there is a choice of 116, Plaka; h8am-2.30pm Mon-Fri), which continues the tradition of his grandfather and namesake; KOLONAKI & PANGRATI mezedhes but it is known as the best seafood while Souvlaki tou Hasapi (Map pp102-3 ; Apollonos 3; Plaka; h8am-4pm Mon-Fri) does a roaring trade, Kotopoula Valsamakis (Map pp106-7 ; %210 360 6725; tavern in Plaka. with tasty skewers or bifteki (meat rissoles) served with crusty bread. Plateia Kolonakiou 3; ¼ chicken & chips €6.50; h8am-11pm, Furin Kazan (Map pp102-3 ; %210 322 9170; Apollonos Night owls can find 24-hour souvlaki at Exarhia’s popular Kavouras (Map pp104-5 ; %210 383 closed Sun) This busy taverna specialising in 2; sushi €20; h11.30am-11pm Mon-Sat) Regularly and 7981; Themistokleous 64, Exarhia; h24hr), although after much research the author swears by the grilled chicken is a Kolonaki institution. It’s reassuringly full of Japanese visitors, Furin souvlaki at Hristos (Map p100 ; %210 756 2400; Ymittou 129, Pangrati), a busy neighbourhood place right opposite the square – look for the ro- Kazan is one of the best and most affordable near Youth Hostel No 5. tisseries outside and the diners tucking into Japanese eateries in town. It’s a casual place plates piled with chicken and chips. with a good selection of rice and noodle dishes 138 RUNNINGHEADATHENS •• Eating •• Runningsubhead www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS•• RunningSubhead •• Drinking 139 ATHENS & ATTICA

(€6.50 to €8) and tempura, but it’s the sashimi OMONIA & EXARHIA expensive) takes on the classics. There are Papadakis (Map pp106-7 ; %210 360 8621; Fokylidou and sushi that steal the show. Yiantes (Map pp104-5 ; %210 330 1369; Valtetsiou 44, trays of mayirefta inside and a range of grills 15; mains €16-50; hclosed Sun) Up in the foothills Exarhia; mains €8.80-15.50) This modern taverna and appetisers. It has expanded across the of Lykavittos, this understatedly chic res- AKROPOLI & THISIO set in a lovely garden courtyard is next to road and added a trendy bar. taurant is an offshoot of the owner’s suc- Filistron (Map p101 ; %210 346 7554; Apostolou Pavlou an open-air cinema. It is considered pricey cessful restaurant on Paros. Seafood is the ATHENS & ATTICA ATHENS & ATTICA 23, Thisio; mezedhes €4.50-14; hclosed Mon) You may for Exarhia, superb and made with largely Top End speciality, with creative dishes such as the be hard pressed finding a table for dinner at organic produce. Try the goat cooked in a There are plenty of upmarket, blow-the- stewed octopus with honey and sweet wine, this excellent mezedhopoleio, which serves an clay pot. budget dining options in Athens. Reserva- the delicious salatouri (fish salad) with small interesting range of reasonably priced, tasty Arheon Gefsis (Map pp104-5 ; %210 523 9661; Kodratou tions are essential. fish, and sea salad (type of green seaweed/sea mezedhes in a prized setting – a rooftop ter- 22, Metaxourghio; mains €10-20; hTues-Sat) This gim- Plous Podilatou (Map p153 ; %210 413 7910; www asparagus). race overlooking the Acropolis. Try the baked micky but fun place turns the clock back 2500 .plous-podilatou.gr; Akti Koumoundourou 42, Piraeus; Spondi (Map p100 ; %210 752 0658; Pironos 5, Pangrati; potato with smoked cheese and pepper or years to ancient Greece. The waiters dress in mains €12-20) Dining by the Mikrolimano har- mains €37-55; h8pm-late) This superb restaurant the mastelo, a fried cheese from Chios in a flowing robes and there are no glasses – the bour is a delight, and the food at this slick has been consistently voted Athens’ best and tomato sauce. ancients used earthenware cups and spoons restaurant will not disappoint either. The the accolades are totally deserved. Spondi of- Strofi (Map p108 ; %210 921 4130; Rovertou Galli 17, instead of forks. The menu derives from an- year-round sister restaurant of pioneering fers Mediterranean haute cuisine, with heavy Akropoli; mezedhes €4-13.50; h7pm-2am Mon-Sat) Strofi’s cient times; roast meats and fish dominate, Nuevo-Greek Kitrino Podilato has a Medi- French influences, in a relaxed, classy setting. greatest attractions are the Acropolis view from served with purées of peas or chickpeas and terranean menu with an emphasis on fresh There is a lovely garden terrace draped in the rooftop terrace, and old-style ambience. vegetables. fish and seafood. bougainvillea in summer. This is definitely a Prices have crept up in recent years and the Varoulko (Map p101 ; %210 522 8400; Pireos 80, Gazi; special-occasion place. There is a range of set traditional taverna fare is still decent. It’s best GAZI & ROUF mains €20-30; hdinner Mon-Sat) For a magical Greek dinner and wine menus. to share a selection of entrées and mains. Kanella (Map p101 ; %210 347 6320; Konstantinoupoleos dining experience, you can’t beat the winning To Steki tou Ilia (Map p101 ; %210 345 8052; Epta- 70, Gazi; dishes €5.60-9.50; hnoon-late) Homemade combination of Acropolis views and delicious DRINKING halkou 5; chops per portion/kg €8.50/28; h8pm-late) This village-style bread, retro mismatched crockery seafood by celebrated Greek chef Lefteris La- Cafés psistaria specialising in tasty grilled lamb and brown-paper tablecloths set the tone for zarou. He moved to these slick premises from Athens seems to have more cafés per capita chops has achieved celebrity status. There are this trendy taverna opposite the train line. Piraeus, where he earned his Michelin rat- than virtually any other city and most of the tables outside on the pedestrian strip opposite There are daily one-pot and oven-baked spe- ing – the only Greek chef with the honour. time they are packed with Athenians sipping the church. For those who don’t eat lamb, cials and grills, some done with a modern The restaurant has a superb rooftop terrace. the ubiquitous frappé, prompting many a there are pork chops and steaks, as well as twist, and an excellent zucchini and avocado Lazarou specialises in fish and seafood crea- visitor to wonder if anyone ever works in this dips, chips and salads. salad. tions, though there are also meat dishes on the city. More recently, the burning question is Skoufias (Map p101 ; %210 341 2252; Vasiliou Mega- menu. The service is faultless and the wine list why they have Europe’s most expensive cof- PSYRRI & MONASTIRAKI lou 50, Rouf; mains €7-10; h9pm-late) This gem of a most agreeable. fee (between €3 and €5). One unconvincing Oineas (Map pp104-5 ; %210 321 5614; Esopou 9, Psyrri; taverna at the tail end of Gazi is a little off the Orizontes (Map pp106-7 ; %210 722 7065; Lykavittos justification is that you actually hire the chair, mezedhes €5-18) This cheery place on a pedestrian beaten track but is worth seeking out. There Hill; dishes €23-38) For a special night out, you can not just pay for coffee, as people sit on a coffee street in Psyrri stands out for the walls of kitsch are tables outside opposite the church. The take the cable car up to the peak of Lykavittos for hours. Greek ads and retro paraphernalia. There are menu has Cretan influences and an eclectic and watch the sun set over Athens. The menu In chic Kolonaki, Da Capo (Map pp106-7 ; Tsakalof some creative dishes on the menu and excellent selection of regional Greek cuisine, includ- at this upmarket restaurant is Mediterranean/ 1, Kolonaki) has excellent coffee, but it is also a generous salads, best shared. Try the kataïfi ing many dishes you are unlikely to find in international and the food and service are prime people-watching spot. It’s self-serve if (cheese pie made with angel-hair pastry). any tourist joint. Meat eaters will love the excellent, as is the wine list. you can find a table. Café Avyssinia (Map pp102-3 ; %210 321 7407; Kyne- tender kotsi (pork shank; €15), which is best tou 7, Monastiraki; mains €8.50-14.50; hlunch & dinner shared. Tue-Sat, lunch only Sun) Hidden away on the edge oSardelles (Map p101 ; %210 347 8050; GAY & LESBIAN ATHENS of grungy Plateia Avyssinias in the middle of Persefonis 15, Gazi; fish dishes €9.50-15) As the name Athens has a relatively low-key gay and lesbian scene, though it is gaining prominence. A new the Flea Market, this mezedhopoleio gets top (Sardines) suggests and the novel fishmonger breed of gay and gay-friendly clubs has opened around town, predominantly around Gazi and marks for atmosphere and the food is not far paper tablecloths confirm, this modern fish Psyrri. The more established gay bars and clubs are located around Makrygianni, including the behind. It specialises in regional dishes and taverna specialises in seafood mezedhes. It’s veteran Granazi ( Map p108 ; %210 924 4185; Lembesi 20, Makrygianni) and the busy three-level Lamda there is often live music on weekends. The a friendly place with tables outside, opposite Club (Map p108 ; %210 942 4202; Lembesi 15, Makrygianni), on the corner of Syngrou. gavros (marinated small fish) is a favourite the illuminated gasworks, excellent service The best place to start the night in Gazi is Blue Train (Map p101 ; %210 346 0677; www.bluetrain dish. and nice touches such as the souvenir little .gr; Konstantinoupoleos) along the railway line, which has a club upstairs. Sodade (Map p101 ; %210 Kuzina (Map pp102-3 ; %210 324 0133; Adrianou 9, pots of basil. Try the grilled sardines and ta- 346 8657; www.sodade.gr; Triptolemou 10, Gazi) attracts a young clubbing crowd. Alekos’ Island (Map Thisio; mains €8.50-16.40) A classy newcomer on ramasalata. pp104-5 ; Sarri 41, Psyrri) attracts a more sedate crowd. Limanakia, below the rocky coves of Varkiza, Adrianou, with tables outside next to the Tem- Mamacas (Map p101 ; %210 346 4984; Persefonis is a popular gay beach. Take the tram or A2/E2 express bus to Glyfada, then take 115 or 116 ple of Haphaestus, Kuzina serves ‘creative’ 41, Gazi; grills €13.40-15.40; h8pm-late) This Gazi to the Limanakia B stop. Greek cuisine with largely successful results. trailblazer was one of the city’s first modern Check out www.athensinfoguide.com/gay.htm or the limited English information at www.gay The interior design is superb, as is the view tavernas, with its Greek island-meets-grunge .gr, or look for a copy of the Greek Gay Guide booklet at periptera (street kiosks) around town. from the terrace bar. look and upmarket (and consequently more 140 RUNNINGHEADATHENS •• Entertainment •• Runningsubhead www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS •• •• RunningSubhead Entertainment 141 ATHENS & ATTICA

Another café-thick area to head to includes In Thisio, the multizoned Stavlos (Map p101 ; Adrianou, along the Ancient Agora, where Iraklidon 10) is a veteran of the string of cafés and MOONLIGHT CINEMA you’ll discover students and young people bars along Iraklidon’s pedestrian precinct. One of the delights of warm summer nights in Athens is the enduring tradition of open-air cinema, filling the shady tables at Dioskouri (Adrianou It plays mainly alternative music inside and where you can watch the latest Hollywood or arthouse flick under the moonlight. Many original 39). Further along the pedestrian promenade more mellow sounds in the garden. outdoor cinemas are still operating in gardens and on rooftops around Athens, with refurbished ATHENS & ATTICA ATHENS & ATTICA along Apostolou Pavous, you’ll get great You won’t find any happening bars in facilities and modern sound systems. Acropolis views from Athinaion Politeia (Map Plaka, but Brettos (Map pp102-3 ; Kydathineon 41, Plaka) The most historic outdoor cinema is the refurbished Aigli (Map pp102-3 ; %210 336 9369) in the p101 ; Akamandos 1). is a delightful old bar with a stunning wall of verdant Zappeio Gardens, where you can watch a movie in style with a glass of wine. Try to nab colourful bottles and huge barrels lining one a seat with Acropolis views (seats on the right) on the rooftop of Plaka’s Cine Paris (Map pp102-3 ; Bars wall. You can sample shots of Brettos’ home %210 322 0721; Kydathineon 22, Plaka) or meander around the foothills of the Acropolis to Thission In Athens the line between café and bar is brand of ouzo, brandy and other spirits as well (Map p101 ; %210 342 0864; Apostolou Pavlou 7, Thisio). often blurred, as you can drink just about as the family wine. anywhere and any time; some bars are also restaurants that become clubs late at night. ENTERTAINMENT %210 361 2461; Akadimias 59, Exarhia) or the Odeon community, who come here to play darts There are very few pubs and the few beer The best source of entertainment information of Herodes Atticus in summer. and sip pints of Guinness or Murphy’s stout. houses are normally expensive. is the weekly Athinorama (€1.50), but you’ll There’s live music Wednesday to Saturday As every neighbourhood has its fair share need to be able to read some Greek to make Greek Folk Dancing from 11.30pm. Beers are expensive. of bars, Athens offers endless bar-hopping much sense of it. Dora Stratou Dance Theatr e Map p101 ; %210 921 opportunities. It is best to head to one of the English-language listings appear daily in 4650; www.grdance.org; Filopappou Hill; adult/concession JAZZ & WORLD MUSIC city’s bar hot spots and explore the field until the Kathimerini supplement in the Interna- €15/10; hperformances 9.30pm Tue-Sat, 8.15pm Sun May- All the places listed here have a cover charge you find the bar of your liking. tional Herald Tribune, while the Athens News Sep) Every summer the Dora Stratou company depending on the performances. Note that In Gazi, you will find people spilling out has an entertainment guide. performs its repertoire of folk dances from they are normally closed during July and into the street from the bars, including the all over Greece at its own open-air theatre on August. trailblazer Gazaki (Map p101 Triptolemou 31), which Cinemas the western side of Filopappou Hill. Formed Half Note Jazz Club (Map p108 ; %210 921 3310; Trivo- has a great rooftop bar. Or you can get some Athenians are avid cinema-goers. Most cin- to preserve the country’s folk culture, it has nianou 17, Mets) The stylish Half Note, opposite fresh air on the terrace of the rock bar 45 Moires emas show recent releases in English (they gained an international reputation for au- the Athens cemetery, is the city’s principal and (Map p101 ; Iakou 18 & Voutadon), overlooking the old don’t dub them) but arthouse foreign films thenticity and professionalism. It also runs most serious jazz venue. It hosts an interesting gasworks chimney stacks, or join the cool have Greek subtitles. In summer, Athenians folk-dancing workshops through the sum- array of international names. crowd at Hoxton (Map p101 ; Voutadon 42). prefer outdoor cinemas (see opposite ). Ad- mer months. Alavastro Café (Map p100 ; %210 756 0102; Damareos Psyrri has many lively bars. You could try mission costs around €7. The theatre is signposted from the western 78, Pangrati) The Alavastro features an eclectic the mainstream Fidelio (Map pp104-5 ; Ogygou 2), The following cinemas are in central end of Dionysiou Areopagitou. Take trolley- mix of modern jazz, ethnic and quality Greek which has a retractable roof, or head to the Athens: bus 22 from Syntagma and get off at Agios music in a casual and intimate venue, with cool Soul (Map pp104-5 ; Evripidou 65), which has a Apollon & Attikon (Map pp104-5 ; %210 323 6811; Ioannis. regular appearances by talented local Arme- dance club upstairs. Stadiou 19, Syntagma) nian Haig Hazdjian. The latest trend is the funky bars popping Astor (Map pp104-5 ; %210 323 1297; Stadiou 28, Live Music Small Music Theatre (Map p108M03E6 ; %210 924 5644; up in obscure alleys and formerly deserted Syntagma) ROCK Veïkou 33, Koukaki) This small venue hosts an in- backstreets of downtown Athens. A spate Asty (Map pp104-5 ; %210 322 1925; Koraï 4, Syntagma) Athens has a healthy rock music scene and teresting assortment of bands, often jazz and of new places have opened in the same lane Ideal (Map pp104-5 ; %210 382 6720; Panepistimiou 46) is on most European touring schedules. In fusion. where people were spilling out of Kinky (Map summer check Rockwave and other festival Palenque (Map pp106-7 M03A9 ; %210 775 2360; www.palenque pp104-5 ; Avramiotou 6-8). Bartessera (Map pp104-5 ; Classical Music & Opera schedules ( p131), as you may be able to see .gr; Farandaton 41, Ambelokipi; h9.30pm-late) A slice Kolokotroni 25) is at the end of a narrow arcade, In summer the main cultural activity takes your favourite band perform in open-air thea- of Havana in Athens, Palenque presents while another safe bet downtown is Magaze place at the historic Odeon of Herodes Atticus tres around town. regular live music, with artists from around (Map pp104-5 ; Eolou 33), which has bonus Acropo- and other venues under the auspices of the Gagarin 205 Club (Map p100 ; Liosion 205) The the world, salsa parties and flamenco shows. lis views. Hellenic Festival (p130 ). Gagarin 205 Club is primarily a rock venue, You can take free tango lessons early in the In Kolonaki, the two main drinking haunts Megaron (Athens Concert Hall; Map pp106-7 ; %210 728 with gigs on Friday and Saturday nights fea- evening. are the strip of bars at the top end of Skoufa, 2333; www.megaron.gr; Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias & Kokkali 1, turing leading rock and underground music where Rosebud (Map pp106-7 ; Skoufa & Omirou 60) is a Ilissia; hbox office 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) The bands. Tickets are available from Ticket Greek Music good start, or you can join the crowds squeez- city’s state-of-the-art concert hall presents a House (p130 ) . REMBETIKA CLUBS ing into the tiny bars on Haritos, such as City rich winter programme of operas and concerts AN Club (Map pp104-5 ; %210 330 5056; Solomou 13-15, Athens has a good number of clubs playing (Map pp106-7 ; Haritos 43). featuring world-class international and Greek Exarhia) The small AN Club hosts lesser-known rembetika (the Greek blues) but most close Exarhia is a good bet for lively bars with performers. international bands, as well as some interest- down from May to September. Most play a marginally cheaper drinks. Wunderbar (Map The Greek National Opera (Ethniki Lyriki Skini; ing local bands. combination of rembetika and laïka (urban pp104-5 ; Themistokleous 80), on Exarhia Sq, is a de- %210 360 0180; www.nationalopera.gr) season runs Mike’s Irish Bar (Map pp106-7 ; %210 777 6797; www popular music). Performances start at around cent place to start, while a new cheap bar pre- from November to June. Performances are .mikesirishbar.gr; Sinopis 6, Ambelokipi; h8pm-4am) A 11.30pm; most places do not have a cover cinct is emerging on nearby Mesolongiou. usually held at the Olympia Theatre (Map pp104-5 ; longtime favourite of the city’s expatriate charge but drinks are expensive. 142 RUNNINGHEADATHENS •• Entertainment •• Runningsubhead www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS •• RunningSubhead •• Shopping 143 ATHENS & ATTICA

Rembetiki Stoa Athanaton (Map pp104-5 ; %210 to some clubs ranges from €10 Monday the superb Acropolis and city views from the Basketball receives little pre-match pub- 321 4362; Sofokleous 19, Syntagma; h3-6pm & midnight- to Thursday to €15 on Friday and Satur- top never do. licity, so you’ll need to ask a local or check 6am Mon-Sat Oct-May) The almost legendary Stoa day nights. The price usually includes one On the Road (Map p108 ; %210 347 8716; Ardittou the website of the Hellenic Basketball Association Athanaton occupies a hall above the central drink. Expect to pay about €5 for a beer and 1, Zappeio; admission Thu-Sat €12; h10pm-late, closed (www.esake.gr). meat market. It is a popular venue where you €7 to €8 for spirits. Clubs get busy around Mon) A classic summer haunt – literally in ATHENS & ATTICA ATHENS & ATTICA can hear classic rembetika and laïka from a midnight. Most of the top clubs close in the middle of the road – where you might ATHLETICS respected band of musicians – from mid- summer or move to outdoor venues by get a dance. The annual Athens Marathon is held on the afternoon. Access is by a lift in the arcade. the beach. Lallabai Garden (Map pp102-3 ; %210 336 9340; Zap- first Sunday in November and finishes at the Perivoli Tou Ouranou (Map pp102-3 ; %210 323 5517; Envy (Map pp102-3 ; %210 331 7801; Agias Eleousis peio; admission €12; h10pm-late) Right in the mid- historic marble Panathenaic Stadium (p119 ). Lysikratous 19, Plaka; h9pm-late Thu-Sun, closed Jul-Aug) & Kakourgodikiou, Psyrri; hWed-Sat) The name dle of the Zappeio Gardens, this place oozes More than 3000 runners from around the A favourite Plaka music haunt in a rustic changes at this popular club, but the venue cool in every sense. The setting is superb, world tackle the 42km event, following the old-style venue where you can have dinner seems to be fixed. It plays the latest dance the music relatively mainstream and there’s historic route run by Pheidippides in 490 and listen to authentic laïka and rembetika music in Psyrri during winter and in sum- pricey finger food. BC from the battlefield at Marathon to Ath- by leading exponents. mer moves the partying to the ever-changing Other beach bars worth seeking out are ens to deliver the news of victory against the Mousikes Skies (Map p100 ; %210 756 1465; Atha- beachside venues. Club 22 in Faliro and if you can make the trek, Persians (before collapsing and dying from nasias 4, Pangrati; h8pm-late, closed Aug) This cosy Kalua (Map pp104-5 ; %210 360 8304; Amerikis 6, Syn- the dreamy Island, past Vouliagmeni. exhaustion). music venue is run by the charming singer tagma) This established downtown club plays Katerina and her bouzouki-playing husband, mainstream music and the odd Greek disco Sport Theatre who lead a talented ensemble of young musi- hit and usually rocks till dawn. Don’t bother The Athens 2004 Olympics left a legacy of Athens has more theatres than any city in cians. You will hear a range of rembetika and getting there before midnight. world-class sports stadiums, and Athens has Europe but, as you’d expect, most perform- laïka played by people who clearly love what Lava Bore (Map pp102-3 ; %210 324 5335; Filellinon begun attracting some major international ances are in Greek. Theatre buffs may enjoy a they do. You can also enjoy mezedhes and an 25, Plaka; h10pm-5am) The central Lava Bore and European sporting and athletic events. performance of an old favourite if they know outdoor courtyard in summer. is by no means one of the city’s in clubs, The most popular local sports are soccer and the play well enough. There is the occasional Kavouras (Map pp104-5 ; %210 381 0202; Themistok- but it stays open all year, and caters largely basketball. Sports fans should contact local performance in English. The National Theatre leous 64, Exarhia; h11pm-late, closed Jul-Aug) Above to tourists. The formula remains much the clubs or sporting bodies directly for match (Map pp104-5 ; %210 522 3243; Agiou Konstantinou 22-24, Exarhia’s popular souvlaki joint, this lively same: a mixture of mainstream rock and information or check the English-language Omonia) is one of the city’s finest neoclassical club usually has a decent line-up of musicians dance music and (relatively) cheap drinks. press or www.sportingreece.com. buildings. playing rembetika and laïka until dawn. It’s far more casual that most Athenian The Greek Secretariat for Sport (www.sport.gov You can also hear rembetika in summer on clubs. .gr) has information on sports organisations SHOPPING a lovely restaurant terrace at Stoa Pilkilis (Map and stadiums. Athens’ main central shopping street is pp102-3 ; %210 321 0431; Ag Fililpou 14, Thisio), though Summer Clubs Ermou, the pedestrian strip that runs from the music outshines the food. There are some great open-air city ven- SOCCER Syntagma to Monastiraki. Most mainstream ues, but in summer the city’s nightlife Greece’s top teams are Athens-based Pana- clothing and footwear stores can be found TRADITIONAL MUSIC TAVERNAS also moves to flashy clubs on the seafront. thinaikos, AEK and Piraeus-based Olympia- along Ermou, which must take the prize Mostrou (Map pp102-3 ; %210 322 5558; Mnisikleous 22, Many clubs are on the tram route, which kos, all three of which are in the European’s for the number of shoe shops per square cnr Lyssiou, Plaka; h9pm-late Sun-Thu, 10.30pm-late Fri & runs 24 hours on weekends. Admission at Champions league. Olympiakos has domi- kilometre. Sat) A classic Plaka taverna, popular for its live most places is the same as the clubs (left ). nated on the domestic front; its 2006–07 Top-brand international designers and jew- music (Thursday to Sunday). It has a full-sized Dress up if you want to ensure you get in Greek championship win was its 10th in the ellers are located around Syntagma and the stage and dance floor and gets very lively. A the door. last 11 seasons. Panathinaïkos, however, has Citylink complex, all the way up pedestrian good place for traditional music and dancing Akrotiri (%210 985 9147; Vasileos Georgiou B 5, Agios enjoyed greater success on the European Voukourestiou, which leads to Kolonaki – the if you can’t face a nightclub or rembetika club. Kosmas; admission €10; h10pm-5am) This popular stage. place for designer boutiques. In summer, there’s more-sedate live music beach club is massive, with a capacity for Generally, tickets to major games can Plaka and Monastiraki are where most on the terrace. 3000, and bars and lounges over different be bought on the day at the venue. Big tourists shop for their souvenirs. There Palea Plakiotiki Taverna Stamatopoulos (Map levels. It hosts great party nights with top games take place at the Olympic Stadium are excellent gift shops at the Benaki Mu- pp102-3 ; %210 322 8722; Lyssiou 26, Plaka; h7pm-2am resident and visiting DJs. in Maroussi and the Karaiskaki stadium seum (p121 ) and the Goulandris Museum Mon-Sat, 11am-2am Sun) Stamatopoulos is some- Balux (%210 894 1620; Leoforos Poseidonos 58, Gly- in Piraeus, the country’s best soccer sta- of Cycladic and Ancient Greek Art (p121 ). thing of a Plaka institution, with reasonable fada; admission €15; h10pm-late) This glamorous dium. Information on Greek soccer and Jewellery stores are rife in Plaka and around food and live music nightly. It’s popular with club right on the beach has to be seen to be fixtures can be found on club websites or Mitropoleos, though most of the more in- locals and can get extremely busy later in the believed. There is a huge pool surrounded www.greeksoccer.com. teresting ones are hidden away in the back- evening, so you’ll need to get in early to be by lounges and four-poster beds with flow- streets. assured of a table. ing nets, and a top line-up of local and BASKETBALL The big department stores are found guest DJs. The biggest basketball games in Ath- on Stadiou, stretching from Syntagma to Nightclubs Vitrine (Map p108 ; %210 924 2444; Markou Mou- ens take place at the Stadium of Peace and Omonia. Athens is known for its nightlife and has sourou 1, Mets; admission Fri-Sat €15; h10pm-late) The Friendship (%210 489 3000; Ethnarhou Makariou) in Kifisia and Glyfada also have excellent clubs to suit all musical tastes. Admission name of this venue may keep changing but Palio Faliro. high-end shopping opportunities. 144 RUNNINGHEADATHENS •• Getting •• Runningsubhead There & Away www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS •• Getting •• RunningSubhead There & Away 145 ATHENS & ATTICA

Flea Markets continues the sandalmaking tradition of his Olympic Airlines has several daily flights Islands, the Peloponnese and a growing Athens’ traditional Monastiraki Flea Market famous poet-sandalmaker father Stavros, to Thessaloniki, Iraklio, Mykonos and San- range of destinations in the Cyclades are (Map pp102–3 ) has a festive atmosphere, who names the Beatles, Rudolph Nureyev, torini, Rhodes and all Greek airports. Aver- run by Hellenic Seaways (Map p153 ; %210 419 with the nearby cafés and restaurants brim- Sophia Loren and Jackie Onassis among his age one-way fares range from €76 to €120, 9000; www.hellenicseaways.gr; cnr Akti Kondyli & Elotikou, ming on weekends. The permanent antique, past customers. But fame and fortune have but vary dramatically depending on the sea- Great Harbour). ATHENS & ATTICA ATHENS & ATTICA furniture and collectables stores have plenty not gone to Stavros’ head; he still makes the son you’re travelling, so check for specials Other operators include Aegean Speedlines to sift through and are open all week, while best-value sandals based on ancient Greek and book in advance if you can. (%210 969 0950; www.aegeanspeedlines.gr). on Sunday the streets around the station styles in natural leather, a tradition contin- Aegean Airlines (reservations %801 112 0000, 210 For additional information on ferries, con- and Adrianou are lined with vendors sell- ued by artist son Pantelis. 626 1000; www.aegeanair.com; Syntagma Map pp102-3 ; tact the Piraeus Port Authority (%1441). ing mostly jewellery and handicrafts. %210 331 5522; Othonos 15, Syntagma) competes The big Sunday Flea Market (Map p101 ), Music with Olympic on the most popular domestic TICKETS however, now takes place at the end of Metropolis Music (Map pp104-5 ; %210 383 0804; routes. Aegean has the best earlybird specials To book a berth in a cabin or take a car on Ermou, towards Gazi, where traders ped- Panepistimiou 64, Omonia) This music haven is well and bookings can be made online. Aegean board a ferry, it is advisable to buy a ticket dle their stuff from the crack of dawn and stocked with Greek and international CDs, has daily flights to Thessaloniki, Iraklio, in advance in Athens. Otherwise, agents you can find some bargains, interesting col- with extensive specialist sections. Its bigger Rhodes, Mykonos, Santorini and Hania, as selling ferry tickets are thick on the ground lectables and kitsch delights among the junk. Greek selection is in the dedicated Greek well as several flights weekly to key destina- around Plateia Karaïskaki in Piraeus and at This is the place to test your haggling skills. music store a few doors down and it sells tions around Greece. the Rafina and Lavrio ports. You can also It winds up around 2pm. tickets to many shows around town. normally purchase tickets at the quay next Xylouris (Map pp104-5 ; %210 322 2711; www.xy INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS to each ferry. Contrary to what some agents Speciality Foods louris.gr; arcade, Panepistimiou 39) This music treas- For information on international services might tell you, it costs no more to buy tick- You can find a delectable array of food at the ure trove is run by the son and widow of from Athens, see p733. ets at the boat. colourful Central Market (p136 ). the Cretan legend Nikos Xylouris. Yiorgos It is advisable to book ahead for all high- Mesogaia (Map pp102-3 ; %210 322 9146; cnr Nikis is a font of knowledge and can guide you Boat speed services, especially for travel on week- & Kydathineon, Plaka) This small shop boasts a through the comprehensive range of tradi- Most ferry, hydrofoil and high speed cata- ends. wonderful array of the finest produce from tional and contemporary Greek music, in- maran services to the islands leave from For more information about ferry and around the country, including delicious cluding select and rare recordings. There’s Athens’ massive port at Piraeus ( p152 ). high-speed services and companies, see cheeses, herbs, honey, jams, olive oil and a big world music section and, of course, Piraeus is the busiest port in Greece, with p743 and the Getting There & Away sec- wine. plenty of Cretan music. a bewildering array of departures and des- tions of the island chapters throughout this To Pantopoleion (Map pp104-5 ; %210 323 4612; So- tinations, including daily services to all the book. fokleous 1, cnr Aristidou, Omonia) This expansive store GETTING THERE & AWAY island groups, except the Ionians and the sells traditional food products from all over Air Sporades. The departure points for ferry RAFINA Greece, from Santorini capers to boutique Athens is served by Eleftherios Venizelos Inter- destinations are shown on Map p153 . Rafina, on Attica’s east coast, is Athens’ olive oils and Cretan rusks. There are jars national Airport (Map p155 ; %210 353 0000; www.aia There are also ferry and high-speed serv- main fishing port and the second-most im- of sweets and goodies for edible souvenirs, .gr) at Spata, 27km east of Athens. ices for Evia and the Cyclades from the portant port for passenger ferries. The port a large range of Greek wines and spirits, The state-of-the-art airport, named in smaller ports at Rafina ( right ) and Lavrio is far smaller than Piraeus and less confus- and a fresh deli if you can wait until you honour of the country’s leading 20th-century (right ). ing – and fares are about 20% cheaper – get home. politician, has all the standard facilities like You can pick up a weekly ferry schedule but it does take an hour on the bus to get cafés, restaurants and banks, great shopping from the EOT tourist office (p110 ) in Ath- there. Traditional Handicrafts and a transit hotel. If you have time to kill, ens; check the daily schedules in the Inter- Rafina port police (%22940 22300) occupies a Amorgos (Map pp102-3 ; %210 324 3836; Kodrou 3, it is worth visiting the small archaeological national Herald Tribune or search online kiosk near the quay. Plaka; h11am-3pm & 6-8pm Mon-Fri) This charm- museum on the 1st floor above the check-in at www.openseas.gr, www.gtp.gr or www Blue Star Ferries (%210 891 9800; www.bluestar ing store is crammed with Greek folk art, hall. The airport website has real-time flight .ferries.gr. See the Getting There & Away ferries.com) is the main operator of catamarans trinkets, ceramics, embroideries and wood- information. sections for each island for specific details, from Rafina to the Cyclades. carved furniture made by the owner, while See p149 for information on public trans- and p740 for general information about ferry There are frequent buses between Ath- his wife runs the store. port to/from the airport. travel. ens and Rafina from the Mavromateon bus Centre of Hellenic Tradition (Map pp102-3 ; %210 Note that there are two departure points terminal (€1.90, one hour) between 5.45am 321 3023; Pandrosou 36, Plaka; h10am-7.30pm) Up- DOMESTIC FLIGHTS for Crete. Ferries for Iraklio leave from the and 10.30pm. stairs from the arcade are great examples The majority of domestic flights are oper- western end of Akti Kondyli in Piraeus, of traditional ceramics, sculptures and ated by Olympic Airlines (Map p108 ; %801 144 444, but ferries for other Cretan ports occasion- LAVRIO handicrafts from around Greece. There is 210 926 9111; www.olympicairlines.com; Leoforos Syngrou ally dock there as well. It’s a long way to Lavrio, an industrial town on the east coast also a great ouzerie and a gallery on the 96). Olympic takes credit card bookings on- the other departure point for Crete on Akti of Attica, is the port for ferries to Kea and 1st floor. line, by phone and also has branch offices Miaouli, so check where to find your boat Kythnos and high-season catamarans to the Melissinos Art (Map pp102-3 ; %210 321 9247; www at Syntagma (Map pp102-3 ; %210 926 4444; Filellinon when you buy your ticket. western Cyclades. .melissinos-art.com; Agias Theklas 2, Psyrri; h10am-8pm 15, Syntagma) and Omonia (Map pp104-5 ; %210 926 Most hydrofoil and high-speed catamaran It’s scheduled to become a major con- Mon-Sat 10am-6pm Sun) Artist Pantelis Melissinos 7218; Kotopoulou 1, Omonia). services from Piraeus to the Saronic Gulf tainer port, with a rail link to Athens. Buses 146 RUNNINGHEADATHENS •• Getting •• Runningsubhead There & Away www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS •• Getting •• RunningSubhead There & Away 147 ATHENS & ATTICA

FERRY & HIGH-SPEED SERVICES FROM ATHENS & ATTICA

C r e t e Dodecanese Destination Port Service Duration Fare Frequency Destination Port Service Duration Fare Frequency

ATHENS & ATTICA ATHENS & ATTICA Agios Nikolaos Piraeus ferry 14hr €34 3 weekly Astypalea Piraeus ferry 12hr €34.50 4 weekly Hania Piraeus ferry 10hr €24.50-30 1 daily Kalymnos Piraeus ferry 10-13hr €32-42.50 daily Hania Piraeus catamaran 4½hr €53 daily Karpathos Piraeus ferry 20hr €31.50 3 weekly Iraklio Piraeus ferry 10hr €32-37 1 daily Kasos Piraeus ferry 20-29hr €31.10-35.30 3 weekly Rethymno Piraeus ferry 10hr €29 1 daily Kos Piraeus ferry 12-15hr €34-44.50 2 daily Rethymno Piraeus catamaran 5hr €55 4 weekly Leros Piraeus ferry 11hr €25 daily Sitia Piraeus ferry 14½hr €34 3 weekly Lipsi Piraeus ferry 13hr €38.40 weekly Nisyros Piraeus ferry 13-15hr €44.50 1 weekly Cyclades Patmos Piraeus ferry 9½hr €25 daily Destination Port Service Duration Fare Frequency Rhodes Piraeus ferry 15-18hr €42-51.50 2-3 daily Symi* Piraeus ferry 15-17hr €32.60 2 weekly Anafi Piraeus ferry 11hr €32.50 3 weekly Tilos Piraeus ferry 15hr €44.50 2 weekly Andros Rafina ferry 2hr €11.50 2 daily *via Rhodes Folegandros Piraeus ferry 6-9hr €23.50 3 weekly Ios Piraeus ferry 7½hr €32.50 4 daily Northeastern Aegean Islands Ios Piraeus catamaran 3¾hr €47 1 daily Destination Port Service Duration Fare Frequency Kea (Tzia) Lavrio ferry 1hr €5 daily Kimolos Piraeus ferry 6hr €28.60 2 weekly Chios Piraeus ferry 6-8hr €23-29 daily Kythnos Piraeus ferry 2½hr €12.10 2 weekly Fourni Piraeus ferry 11hr €30 3 weekly Ikaria Piraeus ferry 10hr €30 daily Kythnos Piraeus catamaran 1¾hr €27 5 weekly Lesvos Piraeus ferry 8-12hr €27-36 daily Milos Piraeus ferry 7hr €28.60 2 weekly Limnos Piraeus ferry 20hr €27 1 weekly Milos Piraeus catamaran 4¼hr €42 daily Samos Piraeus ferry 12hr €33 1-2 daily Mykonos Piraeus ferry 5½hr €28.50 2 daily Mykonos Piraeus catamaran 3½hr €46 2 daily Saronic Gulf Islands Mykonos Rafina ferry 4½hr €19 2 daily Destination Port Service Duration Fare Frequency Mykonos Rafina catamaran 2hr 10min €39.50 2daily Naxos Piraeus ferry 6hr €30 4 daily Aegina Piraeus ferry 1hr €8 hourly Aegina Piraeus hydrofoil 40min €12 hourly Naxos Piraeus catamaran 4hr €48.50 3 daily Hydra Piraeus ferry 3½hr €13.20 1 daily Paros Piraeus ferry 5hr €29.50 4 daily Hydra Piraeus hydrofoil 1hr 40min €21 8 daily Paros Piraeus catamaran 3hr €45.50 4 daily Poros Piraeus ferry 2½hr €11.10 4 daily Paros Rafina catamaran 3hr €40.50 1 daily Poros Piraeus hydrofoil 1hr €19 8 daily Santorini Piraeus ferry 9hr €34 4 daily Spetses Piraeus ferry 4½hr €18.20 daily Santorini Piraeus catamaran 5¼hr €52 daily Spetses Piraeus hydrofoil 2hr €29.50 4 daily Serifos Piraeus ferry 4½hr €15.20 2 daily Serifos Piraeus catamaran 2¼hr €33 2 daily Peloponnese Sifnos Piraeus ferry 5½hr €28.60 2 daily Destination Port Service Duration Fare Frequency Sifnos Piraeus catamaran 2¾hr €37 2 daily Ermioni Piraeus hydrofoil 2hr €24.50 8 daily Syros Piraeus ferry 4hr €24.50-26.50 4 daily Porto Heli Piraeus hydrofoil 2hr €30 4 daily Syros Piraeus catamaran 2½hr €39 2 daily Tinos Piraeus ferry 4½hr €26.50 3 daily E v i a Tinos Piraeus catamaran 3hr €42 daily Destination Port Service Duration Fare Frequency Tinos Rafina catamaran 1¾hr €35 4 daily Tinos Rafina ferry 3¾hr €18 1 daily Evia (Marmari) Rafina ferry 1hr €6 5 daily

run every 30 minutes to Lavrio from the B u s northern Greece, and to Evia. The EOT office %210 880 8000; Alexandras & 28 Oktovriou-Patision, Pedion Mavromateon terminal in Athens. Athens has two intercity KTEL (www.ktel.gr) bus (p110 ) gives out an intercity bus schedule. Areos), about 250m north of the National Ar- Lavrio Port Authority (%22920 25249) has ferry terminals. Terminal A, 7km northwest of chaeological Museum. information. Omonia, has departures to the Peloponnese, MAVROMATEON TERMINAL Buses to Rafina and Marathon leave Goutos Lines (%210 985 2992) is the main op- the Ionians and western Greece. Terminal B, Buses for destinations in southern Attica from the terminal 150m to the north erator for ferries from Lavrio to Kea. 5km north of Omonia, caters to central and leave from the Mavromateon terminal (Map p100 ; on Mavromateon. 148 RUNNINGHEADATHENS •• Getting •• Runningsubhead There & Away www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS •• •• RunningSubhead Getting Around 149 ATHENS & ATTICA

BUS SERVICES FROM MAVROMATEON Car & Motorcycle TRAINS FOR PELOPONNESE METRO TERMINAL Getting in and out of Athens is significantly Destination Duration Fare Frequency The metro operates an airport service from Destination Duration Fare Frequency easier thanks to the new Attiki Odos, and the Monastiraki, though it is not express so you upgraded National Rd (Ethniki Odos) as well Corinth 1hr 20min €6.00 13 daily can pick it up at any station along Line 3. Just Cape Sounion 1½hr €4.50 hourly (suburban rail) (coast road) as various ring roads around the city. Kiato (suburban 1hr 35min €6.00 13 daily check that it is the airport train (displayed ATHENS & ATTICA ATHENS & ATTICA Lavrio port 1¼hr €3.80 half-hourly The top end of Leoforos Syngrou, near the rail) on the train and platform screen). Otherwise Marathon 1¼hr €2.90 hourly Temple of Olympian Zeus, is lined with car- Kiato-Diakofto* 3hr min €2.60 2 daily you can take any train to the Doukissis Plak- Rafina port 1hr €1.90 half-hourly rental firms. Local companies tend to offer (Intercity) 2½hr €4.40 2 daily entias metro station, where you can connect better deals than the multinationals, so it pays Diakofto- 1hr 5min €1.60 to the airport train. If you have not already TERMINAL A to do the rounds to get the best price. The Kalavryta** purchased a ticket, you can also change at Terminal A (%210 512 4910; Kifisou 100) is not a good average price you can expect to pay for a small Kiato-Patra 2hr €42.80 5 daily Doukissis Plakentias for Nerantziotissa sta- introduction to Athens – particularly if you car for a day is €60, and much less for three (Intercity) 1hr 40min €6.00 4 daily tion and take the more comfortable and less arrive after midnight when there is no public or more days. Kiato-Pyrgos 4hr €4.70 2 daily crowded suburban rail train. transport. See p150 for details of fares, and Avis (Map p108 ; %210 322 4951; Leoforos Vasilissis (Intercity) 3hr 20min €9.40 3 daily Trains run every 30 minutes, leaving from p110 for information on taxi rip-offs. Bus Amalias 48) Pyrgos-Olympia 30min €0.70 2 daily Monastiraki between 5.50am and 10.50pm 051 goes to central Athens (junction of Zi- Budget (Map p108 ; %210 921 4771; Leoforos Syngrou 8) *from Kiato, you can change to slow or intercity and from the airport between 5.30am and nonos and Menandrou, near Omonia) every Europcar (Map p108 ; %210 924 8810; Leoforos services 11.30pm. 15 minutes from 5am to midnight. A taxi Syngrou 43) **check, as service was temporarily suspended The metro airport ticket costs adult €6 from the terminal to Syntagma should cost Hertz (Map p108 ; %210 922 0102; Leoforos one way or €10 return (but the return is only no more than €6. Syngrou 12) GETTING AROUND valid for 48 hours). Note that the fare for two Sixt (Map p108 ; %210 922 0171; Leoforos Syngrou 23) To/From the Airport or more passengers works out at €5 each, so KEY BUS DESTINATIONS FROM TERMINAL A Getting to/from the airport has never been make sure you purchase tickets together (this Destination Duration Fare Frequency You can rent mopeds and motorcycles if you easier or faster since the metro and suburban is also the case with the suburban rail). The rail began operating. The cheapest alternative Corfu* 9hr €44.20 3 daily have a licence and the nerve to take on Athens airport ticket is valid for all forms of public Epidavros 2½hr €10.40 2 daily traffic. Motorent (Map p108 ; %210 923 4939; www is the bus. You can also take the suburban transport for 90 minutes. If you are still in Igoumenitsa 7hr €38.20 4 daily .motorent.gr; Rovertou Galli 1, Makrygianni) has a choice rail to Piraeus. transit before the 90 minutes is up, revalidate Kalavryta 3hr €14.40 daily of machines from 50cc to 250cc (high-season your ticket on the final mode of transport to Lefkada 5hr €29.00 4 daily prices start at €16 per day). BUS show you are still on the same journey. Nafplio 2½hr €11.30 hourly Express buses operate between the air- Olympia 5hr €25.60 2 daily Train port and the city centre, Piraeus and KTEL SUBURBAN RAIL Patra 3hr €16.20 half-hourly Intercity trains to central and northern Greece bus terminals. You can take the suburban rail from the Zakynthos* 6hr €28.50 6 daily depart from the central Larisis train station (Map Bus X92 operates between the airport and the Larisis or Doukissis Plakentias metro sta- *includes ferry ticket p100 ), located about 1km northeastwest of suburb of Kifisia (about 55 minutes), departing tion and from Nerantziotissa, on the ISAP Omonia Sq (metro Line 2). every 45 minutes to one hour all day. Line. Trains to the airport run from 4.30am TERMINAL B For the Peloponnese, take the suburban rail Bus X93 operates between the airport and to midnight, while trains from the airport to Terminal B (off Map p100 ; Liosion 260, Kato Patisia) is less to Kiato and change for other OSE services the Terminal B (Kifisos) bus station (about Athens run from 5am to 1.20am. The trip chaotic and much easier to handle than Ter- there. A new rail hub (SKA) is going to be 35 minutes), departing every 30 minutes all takes 38 minutes and trains run every 15 minal A, although again there is no public located about 20km north of the city. day. minutes from Nerantziotissa until 9.30pm, transport from midnight to 5am. The ter- OSE (%1110; www.ose.gr; h24hr) offices at Omo- Bus X94 operates between the airport and then half-hourly. The suburban rail has the minal is in Gousiou, a side street off Liosion nia (Map pp104-5 ; %210 529 7005; Karolou 1; h8am-3pm Ethniki Amyna metro station (about 25 min- same pricing as the metro but the return 260. Take bus 024, from outside the main gate Mon-Fri) and Syntagma (Map pp104-5 ; %210 362 4405; utes), departing every 10 minutes between ticket is valid for a month. of the National Gardens (Map pp102–3 ) on Sina 6; h8am-3pm Mon-Sat) handle advance book- 7.30am and 11.30pm. The suburban rail services also go from Leoforos Vasilissis Amalias and ask to get off ings. See p736 for information on interna- Bus X95 operates between the airport and the airport to Piraeus (change trains at Ner- at Praktoria KTEL. A taxi to Syntagma should tional train services. Syntagma 24 hours (every 30 minutes). The antziotissa) and Kiato in the Peloponnese cost no more than €6. journey takes about an hour, depending on (via Corinth). TRAINS FOR NORTHERN GREECE & EVIA traffic. The Syntagma bus stop is on Oth- KEY BUS DESTINATIONS FROM TERMINAL B Destination Duration Fare Frequency onos St. TAXI Destination Duration Fare Frequency Alexandroupoli 13hr 50min €25.00 daily Bus X96 runs 24 hours between the airport Unfortunately, catching a taxi from the air- Agios 2½hr €12.90 hourly (Intercity) 10½hr €51.50 2 daily and Plateia Karaïskaki in Piraeus, with serv- port can often involve an argument about Konstantinos Halkida 1½hr €5.10 17 daily ices every 20 minutes. the fare (see p110 for the full run-down). Delphi 3hr €13 6 daily Thessaloniki 6hr €15.10 4 daily Bus X97 operates between the airport and Check that the meter is set to the cor- Halkida 1hr €5.90 half-hourly (Intercity) 5hr 10min €35.30 6 daily Dafni metro station (about 25 minutes), de- rect tariff. You will also have to pay a Karpenisi 5hr €21.50 3 daily (Intercity Express) 4¼hr €48.80 3 daily parting every 30 minutes all day. €3.20 airport surcharge and a €2.70 toll for Trikala 4½hr €22 8 daily Volos 5hr 15min €12.90 daily Tickets (€3.20) are not valid for other forms using the toll road, as well as €0.32 cents Volos 4¼hr €23.50 10 daily (Intercity) 4hr 40min €20.70 1 daily of public transport. for each piece of luggage over 10kg. Fares 150 RUNNINGHEADATHENS •• Getting •• Runningsubhead Around www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com RUNNINGHEAD ATHENS •• •• RunningSubhead Getting Around 151 ATHENS & ATTICA

vary depending on traffic, but expect to pay leybuses operate from 5am until midnight. A ATHENS METRO SYSTEM from €25 to €30 from the airport to the city free OASA map shows most of the routes. centre, and €30 to Piraeus. Most drivers will Tickets for buses and trolleybuses (€0.50) Kifisia Line 1 ISAP KAT add the tip, so check the breakdown before must be purchased at a transport kiosk or Line 2 Metro Maroussi adding any extra. Both trips should take no at most periptera and validated on board. Line 3 Metro Nerantziotissa

ATHENS & ATTICA ATHENS & ATTICA Line 2 Future Extension (2008) longer than an hour. If you have any prob- Plain-clothed inspectors make spot checks. Irini Metro Transfer Stations Iraklio lems, do not hesitate to threaten to involve The penalty for travelling without a validated Airport/Train/Tram/Ferry Connections the police. ticket is 60 times the ticket price. Nea Ionia Pefkakia Car & Motorcycle METRO Perissos While the metro, the Attiki Odos and a new The gradually expanding metro (www.ametro.gr) Anthoupoli Ano Patissia Peristeri Agios Eleftherios network of ring roads have helped ease Ath- system has transformed travel around central Athens International Agios Antonios Airport ens’ notorious traffic congestion, it can still Athens. Journeys that once took more than Kato Patissia Sepolia Agios Nikolaos be a nightmarish city to drive in. Heavy traf- an hour above ground now take a matter of Doukissis Plakentias Attiki Halandri fic, confusing signposting, impatient drivers minutes. The stations are an attraction in Ethniki Amyna Larisis Viktoria Katehaki and one-way streets in the city centre make their own right, displaying finds from the Metaxourghio Panepistimio Panormou Omonia driving a challenge. excavation works (p122R0434 ). Trains and sta- Egaleo Ambelokipi Drivers have a cavalier attitude towards tions can be stifling in summer as limited (or Eleonas Megaro Mousikis Votanikos Evangelismos road laws and parking restrictions. Athens’ no) air-conditioning was installed. All have Monastiraki Syntagma Thisio kerbs and car parks are insufficient for the wheelchair access. Akropoli Petralona number of cars in the city (more than two Ticket pricing still distinguishes between Syngrou-Fix million in Attica), prompting Athenians the metro (Lines 2 and 3 €0.80) and the old Tavros to develop ruthless and creative parking network (Line 1 – ISAP), which is split into Kalithea Neos Kosmos techniques. Contrary to what you will see, three sections: Piraeus–Monastiraki, Monas- Moschato Agios Ioannis S A R O N I C Faliro parking is actually illegal alongside kerbs tiraki–Attiki and Attiki–Kifisia (one section Dafni G U L F Piraeus marked with yellow lines, on pavements €0.70; two or more sections €0.80). Agios Dimitrios and in pedestrian malls and there are now Tickets must be validated at the machines paid parking areas, with tickets available at platform entrances. The penalty for travel- from kiosks. ling without a validated ticket is 60 times the For details of rental agencies in Athens, ticket price. tinuing from there. Syntagma is the transfer The trip from Syntagma to Faliro takes see p14803D1 . Trains operate between 5am and just after station for Line 2. about 45 minutes, while Syntagma to Gly- midnight. They run every three minutes dur- fada takes around 55 minutes. The central Public Transport ing peak periods, dropping to every 10 min- terminus is on Amalias, opposite the Na- SUBURBAN RAIL Athens has an extensive and inexpensive in- utes at other times. tional Gardens. Tickets (€0.60) are purchased A fast and comfortable suburban rail (%1110; tegrated public transport network of buses, at platform vending machines. www.proastiakos.gr; h24hr) connects Athens with metro, trolleybuses and a tram line. Line 1 (Green) A tram extension to Piraeus and Voula is the airport, Piraeus, the outer regions and Athens Urban Transport Organisation (%185; The old Kifisia–Piraeus line has transfer sta- in the pipeline. the Peloponnese. It connects to the metro www.oasa.gr; h6.30am-11.30pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-10.30pm tions at Omonia and Attiki for Line 2; Mo- at Larisis and Doukissis Plakentias stations Sat & Sun) can assist with most inquiries. nastiraki is the transfer station for Line 3. Taxi and spans from the airport to Kiato (1¾ A €1 ticket can be used on the entire Athens Nerantziotissa connects with the suburban If you see an Athenian standing on the road hours, €10). The network will eventually urban transport network, including the subur- rail. There’s also an hourly all-night bus serv- bellowing and waving their arms, chances span 281km, connecting Athens to Thiva, ban rail. It is valid for 90 minutes but excludes ice (bus 500) along this route, with bus stops are they are trying to get a taxi at rush hour. Lavrio, Rafina and Halkida. services to the airport. There is also a daily located outside the train stations. Despite the large number of yellow taxis ca- €3 ticket valid for 24 hours and a weekly €10 reering around the streets, it can be difficult ticket with the same restrictions on airport Line 2 (Red) TRAM to get one. travel. You have to be doing a fair bit of travel Line 2 runs from Agios Antonios in the Athens’ single tram service (www.tramsa.gr) To hail a taxi, stand on the pavement and to make these tickets worthwhile. northwest to Agios Dimitrios in the south- makes for a scenic coastal trip to Faliro shout your destination. If it is going your east (check the boards so you don’t confuse and Glyfada, but it is not the fastest means way the driver may stop even if there are BUS & TROLLEYBUS your saints). Attiki and Omonia connect of transport. already passengers inside. The fare is not The blue-and-white local express and regular with Line 1, while Syntagma connects with It has services running from Syntagma shared: each person is charged the fare on buses operate every 15 minutes from 5am Line 3. to Faliro, Syntagma to Glyfada and Faliro the meter (note where it is at when you until midnight. to Glyfada. The tram operates from 5am to get in). Buses run 24 hours between the centre and Line 3 (Blue) 1am Monday to Thursday, then 24 hours Make sure the meter is switched on when Piraeus – every 20 minutes from 6am until Line 3 runs northeast from Egaleo to Douk- from Friday night to Sunday, servicing rev- you get in. The flag fall is €1, with a €1 sur- midnight – and hourly at other times. Trol- issis Plakentias, with the airport train con- ellers travelling to the city’s beach bars. charge from ports, train and bus stations, 152 RUNNINGHEADPIRAEUS •• History •• Runningsubhead www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com RUNNINGHEAD •• RunningSubheadPIRAEUS 153 ATHENS & ATTICA

and a €3.20 surcharge from the airport. After HISTORY that, the day rate (tariff 1 on the meter) is Piraeus has been the port of Athens since A3 C2 B2 B2 B1 B2 B2 A3 B3 B1 B2 B1 B1 B3 B2 F2

13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29

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a covers most journeys in downtown Athens. fortified Piraeus’ three natural harbours. In Nirvana Z Saronic Gulf Aegean Peace & Stadium Friendship Bus No 040 to Syntagma..... Bus No 049 to Omonia...... Bus No X96 to Airport...... Bus Station...... Marina...... Catamarans to Cyclades...... Ferries to Crete...... Ferries to Dodecanese...... Ferries to Eastern Cyclades.... Cyclades ...... Hellenic Seaways...... International Ferries...... Saronic Gulf Ferries...... Buses 904/905 to Zea Catamarans & Hydrofoils to Peloponnese & Ferries to Crete...... A1 Ferries to Northeastern Ferries to Western & Central TRANSPORT

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t A ing the harbour. the Great Harbour, as well as plenty of ATMs. E 154 RUNNINGHEADPIRAEUS •• Sights •• Runningsubhead www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com RUNNINGHEAD ATTICA •• RunningSubhead•• Cape Sounion 155 ATHENS & ATTICA

There are luggage lockers at the metro station backstreets or further afield at the Mikroli- 904 or 905 between Zea Marina and the metro tinue to be among the region’s main attrac- (24 hours €3). mano harbour, Marina Zea and along the station. tions, although they pale alongside the superb There is free wi-fi access around the port, waterfront promenade at Freatida. Temple of Poseidon at Cape Sounion. and at McDonald’s and Starbucks. Flying Pig Pub (%210 429 5344; Filonos 31; h9am- Many of these places can be reached by Bits & Bytes Internet (%210 412 1615; Iroon 1am) Run by a friendly Greek Australian, the ATTICA ΑΤΤΙΚΗ regular city buses; others can be reached by ATHENS & ATTICA ATHENS & ATTICA Polytehniou 2, Monastiraki; per hr €2; h24hr) Pig is a popular bar with a large range of beers. KTEL services from the Mavromateon bus Emporiki Bank (cnr Antistaseos & Makras Stoas) Has a It also serves decent food, including a gener- Greater Athens and Piraeus account for the terminal. 24-hour automatic exchange machine. ous English breakfast. bulk of the population of the prefecture of National Bank of Greece (cnr Antistaseos & Tsamadou) You can stock up on supplies before a ferry Attica. The plain of Attica is an agricultural CAPE SOUNION Near the Emporiki Bank. trip, in the area just inland from Akti Posei- and wine-growing region, with several large ΑΚΡΩΤΗΡΙΟ ΣΟΥΝΙΟ Post office (cnr Tsamadou & Filonos; h7.30am-8pm donos. The markets (h6am-4pm Mon-Fri) are on population centres. It has some fine beaches, Temple of Poseidon Mon-Fri, 7.30am-2pm Sat). Dimosthenous. Piraikon supermarket (%210 417 particularly along the Apollo Coast and at Nαός του Ποσειδώνα 5764; Ippokratous 1; h8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat) is Shinias, near Marathon. The ancient Greeks knew how to choose a site SIGHTS opposite the markets. Until the 7th century, Attica was home to for a temple. Nowhere is this more evident If you have time to spare, the Piraeus Archaeo- a number of smaller kingdoms, such as those than at Cape Sounion, 70km south of Athens, logical museum (%21045 21598; Harilaou Trikoupi 31; SHOPPING at Eleusis (Elefsina), Ramnous and Brauron where the Temple of Poseidon (%22920 39363; adult/ adult/concession €3/2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) is a good Flea Market (cnr Alipedou & Skylitsi Omiridou; h7am-2pm (Vravrona). The remains of these cities con- concession €4/2; h9.30am-sunset) stands on a craggy place to spend it. It’s well laid out and con- Sun) The Piraeus flea market rivals its famous tains some important finds from classical and counterpart in Athens. As well as stalls selling 0 10 km ATTICA 0 6 miles Roman times. These include some very fine junk, there are small shops selling jewellery, Lake Iliki To Halkida (4km) tomb reliefs dating from the 4th to 2nd cen- ceramics and antiques. The market is near To Lamia (150km); Larisa (260km); tury BC. The star piece of the museum, how- Plateia Ippodamias, behind the metro station. Thessaloniki (430km) Evia ever, is the magnificent statue of Apollo, the Antique hunters are better off scouring the E75 Gulf of Piraeus Kouros. It is the oldest larger-than-life, stores in the streets around the market. Skala Oropou Evia

hollow bronze statue yet found. It dates from Thiva Kalithea (Thebes) about 520 BC and was discovered in Piraeus, GETTING THERE & AWAY Kalamos Neohoraki E75 buried in rubble, in 1959. It was temporarily Bus Melissohori STEREA ELLADA closed for renovation in 2007. Bus Nos 040 and 049 operate 24 hours a day Klidi Ramnous The Hellenic Maritime Museum (%210 451 between Piraeus and central Athens; they run Pyli Kapareli Skourta Lake Erythres Mt Parnitha 6264; Akti Themistokleous, Plateia Freatidas, Zea Marina; every 20 minutes from 6am until midnight and Panakto Marathon Agia adult/concession €3/1.50; h9am-2pm Tue-Sat, 9.30am- then hourly (€0.50). Bus 040 runs between Akti E962 Mt Parnitha (1413m) Marina Inoi Stefani National Park 2pm Sun) ὈὈAgia Triada Marathon brings Greece’s maritime history Xaveriou in Piraeus and Filellinon in Athens. Porto Germeno Shinias Thrakomakedones to life, with models of ancient and modern Bus 049 runs between Plateia Themistokleous Marathon Shinias Beach Tomb ships, seascapes by leading Greek 19th- and in Piraeus and Omonia in Athens. Future SKA E75 Fili Rail Hub Nea Makri 20th-century painters, guns, flags and maps The X96 Piraeus–Athens Airport Express Kifisia Alepohori Mt Pendeli Veniza Aharnes To Evia as well as part of a submarine on the museum buses leave from the southwestern corner of (1107m) Petalia (20km) Attiki Odos Gulf grounds. There is also a small Museum of the Plateia Karaïskaki. Agioi Athens Olympic Rafina Electric Railway (admission free; h 9am-2pm & 5-8pm) See p146 for information on bus services Elefsina Dafni Anargyroi E94 (Eleusis)ὈὈComplex Eleftherios Venizelos in the metro station. to the rest of Greece. To Moni Dafniou Peristeri Megara Moni International Corinth (30km); Airport Patra (170km) Mt Egaleo Kaisarianis Koutouki Loutsa Salamina Perama (463m) Caves To the Metro & Suburban Rail Spata Cyclades SLEEPING ATHENS Peania Piraeus (170km) There’s no need to stay at any of the shabby The metro is the fastest and easiest way to get Salamina Bay Flisvos Vorres Mt Museum Vravrona cheap hotels around Great Harbour when from Piraeus to central Athens (see p150 ). Straits of Faliro Hymettos (Brauron) Gulf of Megara Salamina Kalamaki (1026m) Athens is so close (they’re aimed more towards The station is at the northern end of Akti Ka- Beach Koropi Porto Rafti Agios Alimo Markopoulo accommodating sailors than tourists). The bet- llimassioti. Travellers should take extra care as Salamina Kosmas Glyfada Limni ter hotels are geared for the business market. the section between Piraeus and Monastiraki Voula Vouliagmenis Kalyvia Voula Beach Varkiza Don’t attempt to sleep out – Piraeus is probably is notorious for pickpockets. Kavouri Keratea Vouliagmeni the most dangerous place in Greece to do so. Piraeus is now connected to the suburban Varkiza Vouliagmeni Beach You could try the budget Hotel Triton (%210 rail, whose terminus is opposite the metro sta- Beach

417 3457; Tsamadou 8). tion. To get to the airport or the Peloponnese Anavissos Aegina To Kea (22km); Town Aegina you change trains at Nerantziotissa. Saronic Kythnos (55km) Gulf EATING & DRINKING Apollo Lavrio There are dozens of cafés, restaurants and GETTING AROUND Coast fast-food places along the waterfront at Great Piraeus has its own network of buses but the Angistri To Western Sounion Cyclades (140km); Cape Harbour but the better restaurants are in the services likely to interest travellers are buses Crete (260km) Temple of Poseidon Sounion 156 RUNNINGHEADATTICA •• Elefsina •• Runningsubhead (Eleusis) www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com RUNNINGHEAD ATTICA•• RunningSubhead •• Vravrona 157 ATHENS & ATTICA

spur that plunges 65m down into the sea. Built thousands of pilgrims wanting to be initiated Vorres Museum Μουσείο Βορρέ mound that is the Marathon tomb (%22940 in 444 BC at the same time as the Parthenon, into the Eleusinian mysteries. They walked This impressive private modern art and folk 55462; 350m from Athens-Marathon rd; site & museum €3; it is constructed of local marble from Agrilesa in procession from the Acropolis to Eleusis museum (%210 664 2520; www.culture.gr; Parodos Dia- h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun Jun-Oct). In ancient Greece, and its slender columns – of which 16 remain – along the Sacred Way, which was lined with dohou Konstantinou 4, Peania; adult/child €5/2.50; h10am- the bodies of those who died in battle were are Doric. It is thought that the temple was statues and votive monuments. Initiates were 2pm Sat, Sun & August, by appointment Sep-Jul) is on the returned to their families for private burial, ATHENS & ATTICA ATHENS & ATTICA built by Ictinus, the architect of the Temple of sworn to secrecy on punishment of death, lovely 2.5-hectare estate that is the home of but as a sign of honour the 192 men who fell Hephaestus in Athens’ Ancient Agora. and during the 1400 years that the sanctuary Ion Vorres. Vorres migrated to Canada as a at Marathon were cremated and buried in this The temple looks gleaming white when functioned, its secrets were never divulged. young man but built his home here in 1963 collective tomb. The site has a model of the viewed from the sea and is discernible from It was closed by the Roman emperor Theo- and began collecting art (housed in a modern battle and historical information. a long distance. It gave great comfort to sailors dosius in the 4th century AD. gallery), furniture, artefacts, textiles and his- Nearer to the town is the excellent Mara- in ancient times; they knew they were nearly The site’s museum helps make some sense toric objects from around Greece to preserve thon museum (%22940 55155; admission incl site €3), home when they saw it. The views from the of the scattered ruins, with models of the the national heritage. which has local discoveries from various pe- temple are equally impressive. On a clear day, old city. Take bus 308 to Koropi-Peania from Eth- riods, including neolithic pottery from the you can see Kea, Kythnos and Serifos to the Take bus A16 or B16 from Plateia Elefth- niki Amyna metro station. Cave of Pan and finds from the tomb of the southeast, and Aegina and the Peloponnese to erias (Koumoundourou), north of Monasti- Athenians. New finds from the area include the west. The site also contains scanty remains raki. Buses run every 20 minutes and take VRAVRONA ΒΡΑΥΡΩΝΑ several well-preserved larger-than-life stat- of a propylon, a fortified tower, and, to the about 30 minutes in reasonable traffic. The Sanctuary of Artemis (%22990 27020; adult/ ues from an Egyptian sanctuary. Next to the northeast, a 6th-century temple to Athena. concession €3/1.50; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) was a re- museum is one of the area’s prehistoric grave Try to visit early in the morning before the DAFNI ΔΑΦΝI vered site for worshippers of the goddess of circle sites, which has been preserved under tourist buses arrive – or head there for the Moni Dafniou Μονή Δαφνίου the hunt, protector of women in childbirth a hangar-like shelter, with raised platforms sunset – if you wish to indulge the sentiments and newborns. The temple is one of several and walkways over the site. There is another The 11th-century Dafni monastery (%21058 of Byron’s lines from Don Juan: ‘Place me monuments from this Neolithic settlement. hangar containing an early Helladic cemetery 11558; Leoforos Athinon), 10km northwest of Ath- on Sunium’s marbled steep, Where nothing The museum (temporarily closed at the time site on the way to the museum. ens along the busy road to Corinth, is At- save the waves and I, May hear our mutual of research) houses exceptional finds from the About 8km west of Marathon is Lake Mara- tica’s most important Byzantine monument, murmurs sweep…’. sanctuary and excavations in the area. thon, a massive dam that was Athens’ sole and is on Unesco’s World Heritage list. The Byron was so taken by Sounion that he Take the metro to Ethniki Amyna, then source of water until 1956. The dam wall, monastery was badly damaged by the 1999 carved his name on one of the columns – sadly bus 304 to Loutsa. It’s a 10-minute taxi ride completed in 1926, is faced with the famous earthquake and it was still unclear at the many others have followed suit. from there, with a nice stretch of beach on Pentelic marble that was used to build the time of research when it would reopen. There are a couple of tavernas just below the way. Parthenon. It’s an awesome sight, standing The monastery stands on the site of an the site if you want to combine a visit with over 50m high and stretching for more than ancient Sanctuary of Apollo along the route lunch and a swim. 300m. of the Sacred Way that ran from ancient MARATHON & AROUND You can take either the inland or the more Marathon Μαραθώνας Hourly (half-hourly in the afternoon) buses Eleusis to the Acropolis. The temple was de- scenic coastal bus to Cape Sounion from Ath- The plain surrounding the unremarkable depart from Athens’ Mavromateon terminal stroyed by the Goths in AD 395, although a ens. The coastal buses leave Athens hourly, on small town of Marathon, 42km northeast of to Marathon (€2.90, 1¼ hours). The tomb and single Ionic column survives in the narthex the half-hour (€4.50, 1½ hours), from the Ma- Athens, is the site of one of the most celebrated the museum are within a short walking dis- of the church. The church contains some of vromateon bus terminal. See p147 for details. battles in world history. In 490 BC an army of tance of bus stops (tell the driver where you Greece’s finest mosaics. These buses also stop on Filellinon, on the 9000 Greeks and 1000 Plataeans defeated the want to get off). There are no bus services to Bus A16 from Plateia Eleftherias can drop corner of Xenofontos, 10 minutes later, but by 25,000-strong Persian army, proving that the Lake Marathon. you outside the monastery. this time they’re usually very crowded. Persians were not invincible. The Greeks were indebted to the ingenious tactics of Miltiades, Ramnous Ραμνούς ELEFSINA (ELEUSIS) ΕΛΕΥΣIΝΑ AROUND PEANIA who altered the conventional battle forma- The ruins of the Ramnous ancient port (%22940 The ruins of Ancient Eleusis (%21055 46019; Koutouki Cave Σπηλιά Κουτούκι tion so that there were fewer soldiers in the 63477; admission €2; h8am-5.30pm) are about 10km adult/concession €3/2; h8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) lie sur- Although the facilities here are run-down, centre, but more in the wings. This lulled the northeast of Marathon. It’s an evocative, over- rounded by oil refineries and factories beside this two- million-year-old cave (%210 664 2910; Persians into thinking that the Greeks were grown and secluded site, standing on a pic- the industrial town of Elefsina, 22km west www.culture.gr; Peania; adult/concession €5/3; h9.30am- going to be a pushover. They broke through turesque plateau overlooking the sea. Among of Athens. 3.45pm Mon-Fri) is one of the finest in Greece, in the centre but were then ambushed by the the ruins are the remains of the Doric Temple It’s hard to imagine Eleusis in ancient covering 3300 sq metres and containing soldiers in the wings. At the end of the day, of Nemesis (435 BC), which once contained a times, but nestled on the slopes of a low hill stalagmites and stalactites. It is well lit and 6000 Persians and only 192 Greeks lay dead. huge statue of the goddess. Nemesis was the close to the shore of the Saronic Gulf, an- guided tours end with a quirky sound-and- The story goes that after the battle a runner goddess of retribution and mother of Helen cient Eleusis was built around the Sanctuary light finale with classical music. was sent to Athens to announce the victory. of Troy. There are also ruins of a smaller 6th- of Demeter. The site dates back to Mycenaean The cave is best visited by car. Buses 125 After shouting ‘Enikesame!’ (‘We won!’) he century temple dedicated to Themis, goddess times, when the cult of Demeter, one of the and 308 from outside Ethniki Amyna metro collapsed in a heap and never revived. This is of justice. most important cults in ancient Greece, station can take you as far as Peania; from the origin of today’s marathon race. Another section of the site was recently began. By classical times it was celebrated there you can take a taxi about 4.5km to Four kilometres before the town of Mara- opened to the public, leading 1km down a pic- with a huge annual festival, which attracted the cave. thon is the 10m-high tumulose or burial turesque track to the relatively well-preserved © Lonely Planet Publications 158 RUNNINGHEADATTICA •• Mt Parnitha •• Runningsubhead www.lonelyplanet.com

fortress on the cliff top near the sea, with the MT PARNITHA ΠΑΡΝΗΘΑ remains of the city, a temple, gymnasium and Mt Parnitha National Park, just 20km north theatre. The site is well off the beaten track of the city centre, is a popular weekend escape and consequently one of the least spoilt. You for Athenians, though, tragically, thousands need your own transport to get there. of hectares of century-old fir forest were razed ATHENS & ATTICA ATHENS & ATTICA during the 2007 fires. It will take decades to Shinias Σχοινιάς recover from what experts are calling an en- The long, sandy, pine-fringed beach at vironmental disaster. Shinias, southeast of Marathon, is the best Mt Parnitha comprises a number of smaller in this part of Attica and also very popular, peaks, the highest of which is Karavola at particularly at weekends. Shinias was the 1413m – high enough to get snow in winter. controversial location chosen for the rowing The park is crisscrossed by numerous walking competition in the 2004 Olympic Games, trails, marked on the Road Editions trekking despite concerns about its susceptibility to map of the area. Most visitors access the park strong winds and its proximity to significant by cable car from the outer Athens suburb of wetlands. Thrakomakedones. The cable car drops you Camping Ramnous (%22940 55855; www.tggr.com below Casino Mt Parnes (%21024 21234; www.mont /camping-ramnous-athens; Leoforos Poseidonos 174; camp -parnes.gr; h24hr), a gaming and hotel complex. sites per adult/tent €6.50/7) on the way to the beach The casino runs a free bus service from has a children’s playground and waterslide. various locations in Athens, including outside The bus to Marathon stops at the entrance the Hilton. You can get to the cable car station to the camp site and within walking distance on bus 714 from the south end of Aharnon, of Shinias beach. near Plateia Omonias.

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