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YOUR O.A.T. ADVENTURE TRAVEL PLANNING GUIDE®

Undiscovered Adriatic: Eastern , , Puglia & Malta

2022

Small Groups: 20-25 travelers—guaranteed! (average of 22) Overseas Adventure Travel ® The Leader in Personalized Small Group Adventures on the Road Less Traveled 1 Dear Traveler,

At last, the world is opening up again for curious travel lovers like you and me. And the O.A.T. Undiscovered Adriatic: Eastern Italy, Venice, Puglia & Malta itinerary you’ve expressed interest in will be a wonderful way to resume the discoveries that bring us so much joy. You might soon be enjoying standout moments like these:

I love to eat in Italy (who doesn’t?) and nothing quite compares to the bounty of fresh produce and artisan crafted from ancient recipes. You’ll see what I mean when you spend A Day in the Life of a local Masseria, an ancient farmer’s residency that represents the heart of the rural Apulian identity. The current owners and descendants of these farmers have continued its traditions as a fully operational farmstead. Here, you’ll have a chance to get to know your hosts as you prepare a farm-fresh dishes before sitting down to share a together. After , you’ll have a chance to put your skills to the test during a - and cheese-making tutorial.

But nothing compares with the stories I hear directly from the local people. You’ll hear their dramatic personal experiences when you meet an individual who was very close with Daphne Caruana Galizia, a former investigative journalist, columnist, blogger, and anti-corruption activist whose 30-year career exposed widespread government corruption, nepotism, patronage, and money laundering. I was saddened to learn that such a brilliant and brave woman was killed by a car bomb after linking several prominent politicians to a scandal, but I was touched by her conviction to unveil the truth and dismantle a corrupt political system.

The way we see it, you’ve come a long way to experience the true culture—not some fairytale version of it. So we keep our groups small, with only 20-25 travelers (average 22) to ensure that your encounters with local people are as intimate and authentic as possible. It’s also why your O.A.T. Trip Experience Leader will be a resident “insider” who can show you the culture as only a local can.

To ensure that your adventure is truly unique, put your own personal stamp on it. You can arrive early and stay later, add a pre- or post-trip extension, spend time in a Stopover city, or combine two or more trips. Plus, your itinerary offers ample free time so you can pursue your own interests.

So until the day comes when you are off to enjoy your Undiscovered Adriatic: Eastern Italy, Venice, Puglia & Malta adventure, I hope you will relish the fun and anticipation that this O.A.T. Adventure Travel Planning Guide® will inspire. Should you have further questions, feel free to call our Regional Adventure Counselors at 1-800-955-1925.

Love and peace,

Harriet R. Lewis Vice Chairman, Overseas Adventure Travel

P.S. For further peace of mind, please know that we are EXTENDING our Risk-Free Booking Policy through 12/31/21. Learn more at www.oattravel.com/risk-free-booking.

USA Today “Best Tours” 10Best Readers’ Presented by Choice Awards Solo Traveler

2 CONTENTS

A Letter from Harriet Lewis ...... 2 The O.A.T. Difference...... 4 The Freedom to Personalize Your Experience ...... 6 Grand Circle Foundation...... 8 The Leader in Solo Travel ...... 9

UNDISCOVERED ADRIATIC: EASTERN M/V Athena, M/V Artemis & M/V Arethusa ... 68 ITALY, VENICE, PUGLIA & MALTA Ship Specifications ...... 71 Your Adventure at a Glance: Where You’re Going, What it Costs, ABOUT YOUR DESTINATIONS: and What’s Included ...... 10 CULTURE, ETIQUETTE & MORE Your Detailed Day-To-Day Itinerary ...... 12 The Cultures of Italy, , and Malta ..... 73 Optional Tours ...... 34 Religion and Religious Observances ...... 74 Pre-Trip Extension ...... 35 Visiting Places of Worship ...... 75 Post-Trip Extension ...... 40 Language ...... 75 Deck Plans ...... 44 Venice in Brief ...... 78 Dates & Prices ...... 46 Malta in Brief...... 80 in Brief...... 81 ESSENTIAL TRAVEL INFORMATION Shopping: What to Buy, Customs, Travel Documents & Entry Requirements. . . 47 Shipping & More ...... 83 No Visas Required ...... 47 Rigors, Vaccines & General Health ...... 49 DEMOGRAPHICS & HISTORY Vaccines Required ...... 50 Italy ...... 86 Money Matters: Local Currency Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 86 & Tipping Guidelines...... 52 Italy: A Brief History ...... 87 Tipping Guidelines...... 54 ...... 88 Air, Optional Tours & Staying in Touch ..... 56 Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 88 Optional Tours ...... 57 Slovenia: A Brief History ...... 89 Communicating with Home from Abroad . . 58 Malta...... 90 Packing: What to Bring & Luggage Limits . . . 59 Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 90 Suggested Packing Lists ...... 61 Malta: A Brief History ...... 91 Electricity Abroad ...... 63 Climate & Average Temperatures ...... 65 RESOURCES Aboard Your Ship: Cabin Features, Suggested Reading ...... 93 Dining & Services on Board ...... 68 Suggested Film & Video ...... 96

O.A.T. Health & Safety Measures...... 100 Notes...... 101 Map ...... 103

3 EXPERIENCE THE O.A.T. DIFFERENCE in Italy & Malta

This adventure not only showcases iconic sights, but takes you beyond them to experience the culture through unique activities, engagement with the natural world, and authentic encounters with local people. Since our founding in 1978, O.A.T. has become America’s leader in personalized small group journeys on the road less traveled.

SMALL GROUPS: 20-25 TRAVELERS LOCAL MODES OF TRANSPORTATION (AVERAGE OF 22)—GUARANTEED To see the world like the locals, you should The world feels more intimate and engaging travel like one. Our small group size allows when your experience of it is also personal us to take the roads and waterways that are and genuine. That’s why our groups never less traveled, and we often follow them using exceed 25 travelers. This gives you access to the same unique modes of transportation people and places larger groups simply can’t that the locals use—be it a canoe, a camel or a reach. More authentic interactions. Deeper vintage cab. bonds with your travel mates. Personal service from your Trip Experience Leader. Smoother UNIQUE LODGINGS transitions. And a far more satisfying Our lodgings reflect the local character, experience than any traditional tour offers. from smaller family-run hotels and historic manors to comfy inns. Occasionally, larger THE BEST TRIP EXPERIENCE LEADERS hotels closer to city centers are used. Wherever Your English-speaking, O.A.T. Trip Experience you stay, you’re assured fine comfort and Leader is a resident of the region you are visiting, hospitality. so you will get a true insider’s perspective that brings each place alive—the stories, , OUR WORLDWIDE OFFICES customs, hidden treasures and more. With 36 regional offices around the world, we are perfectly poised to leverage our local AUTHENTIC CULTURAL CONNECTIONS relationships to deliver an excellent experience Engage with local people through visits to and value. During this trip, you’ll be supported farms, factories, markets, and artisans’ studios; by our team in Rome. school visits; Home-Hosted ; and more.

Share a meal with a local family in Ortona Visit a farm house in the Italian countryside

4 THE PILLARS OF DISCOVERY En riching. Inspiring. Unforgettable. These features form the foundation of your Undiscovered Adriatic adventure.

GRAND CIRCLE FOUNDATION (GCF) VISIT 11.5 million documents containing sensitive GCF was established in 1992 to help change financial information were leaked. people’s lives in the world where we live, A DAY IN THE LIFE work, and travel. To date, we have pledged or Do you ever wonder, “What would it be like donated $200 million worldwide. to live here?” when you visit new lands? Let’s By investing in the places we explore— find out during your O.A.T. A Day in the Life, an including local schools, cooperatives, or arts exclusive, immersive experience that places you centers—we hope to give locals the skills and in the heart of a community where you’ll meet confidence they need to become leaders of various people where they live, work, and play; their generation and preserve their heritage visit the neighborhood school; lend a hand with for many years to come. We’re proud to play daily chores; and break bread with our hosts. a part in preserving precious locales like the During our NEW A Day in the Life experience, we’ll Bryggen waterfront district of Bergen, a living meet with a Mastro Trullaro or “Master of Trulli,” a example of the glory days of the Hanseatic community leader who carries on the knowledge League, and supporting villages like Harmi in of the distinctive construction of trulli huts in Estonia, whose once-struggling school is now the Apulian village of Alberobello. We’ll also a center of community life. visit a UNESCO World Heritage farmhouse, an CONTROVERSIAL TOPICS ancient farmer’s residency which remains a fully Every culture has its joys and achievements, operational farm where we’ll meet the current and we celebrate them all. But every place also owners, descendants of the former farmers who has its challenges, and to gloss over them would lived here. During our visit, we’ll learn about the not do justice to those whose stories need to be inner workings of the farm and share a fresh told—nor to you, as a traveler who deserves more farmhouse meal with members of the family. than a sugar-coated version of things. So our Trip HOME-HOSTED EXPERIENCES Experience Leaders will lead frank discussions on Stories shared. Differences solved. Taste buds controversial issues, and introduce you to people engaged. Good will extended. It’s amazing the whose stories will expand your understanding. things that can happen across a table, For example, we’ll discuss anti-corruption so we’ll break into groups of 6-8 to join a local activism in Malta—more specifically, the life of family in their home for a snack or a meal. Daphne Caruana Galizia, a former investigative This is a rare opportunity to witness family journalist, columnist, blogger, and anti- life, learn local customs, and taste some corruption activist—with an individual who home-cooked fare. was very close with Daphne. We’ll hear about On this adventure, we’ll delve into daily life in how Daphne’s 30-year career successfully the fishing village of Ortona when we join a exposed widespread government corruption, family for lunch in their home. During our nepotism, patronage, and money laundering visit, we’ll sample eastern Italy’s rustic before she was killed by a car bomb in 2017, as we share a traditional meal with our hosts after linking a number of Maltese politicians to and learn firsthand about life on the coast. the infamous Panama Papers scandal in which

5 You're in control with THE FREEDOM TO PERSONALIZE YOUR EXPERIENCE Exclusively with O.A.T. Your Choice. Your Adventure. Your Way.

It’s your adventure, so why not make it exactly what you want it to be? We offer an exclusive variety of options that let you tailor your adventure so it’s completely your own. In fact, O.A.T. is the only travel company to offer this level of flexibility and choice for a truly personalized experience.

PRE- OR POST-TRIP EXTENSIONS 2. Great value: All extensions include Every O.A.T. adventure offers at least one accommodations, daily , and optional pre-trip and one post-trip extension. airport transfers. Here’s why more than 55% of O.A.T. travelers 3. Continuity and camaraderie: You’ll usually choose to take a pre- or post-trip extension: travel with the same Trip Experience Leader who leads your main trip, enjoying 1. You’ll maximize your discoveries—often more of his or her insider expertise—and in an even smaller group than your main more time to bond with the group. adventure (on average, 6 travelers with a dedicated Trip Experience Leader)—and take advantage of your included airfare.

Optional Extensions offered with your Mediterranean adventure

Ljubljana & Trieste: World War II Rome: Ancient Sites & Hidden City Gems to the Present 4 nights post-trip from $1095 5 nights pre-trip from $1695

Piazza Unità d’Italia, Trieste, Italy Panoramic view, Rome, Italy

6 ARRIVE EARLY, STAY LATER ideas about how to spend this time and what to see and do, our Regional Adventure Extending your time abroad—with us or Counselors can provide recommendations on your own—is the best way to broaden when helping you plan this option. your experience. It’s also a practical way to maximize the value of the international COMBINE ADVENTURES airfare covered in your main itinerary. You’re already overseas. Why not see more Expand Your Discoveries Before and maximize your value by avoiding the or After Your Adventure cost and length of another international Arrive early in the first destination on your flight? Here’s why 2,250 O.A.T. travelers pre-trip extension or main adventure, or stay combined two or more adventures in 2019: later in the last city on your main adventure or • Save a total of $600-$3000 per person when post-trip extension. By coming early, you can you combine two adventures compared to rest after your flight and adjust—with time to the cost of taking each trip separately. explore. By staying later, you have extra time to relax, pack, or continue exploring. • Apply the 5% or 6% Frequent Traveler Credit you earn on your first trip to your This option lets you take advantage of our second trip. lower group rates, with prices from $50 per • Sir Edmund Hillary Club members save an person per night—including accommodations, extra $250-$350 per person when booking private airport transfer, and daily breakfast. multiple trips in a calendar year. • Arrive early in Venice for your main trip • Our Regional Adventure Counselors make all for $250 per person, per night the arrangements for a seamless experience. • Arrive early in Ljubljana on your pre-trip Combine this trip with our Crossroads of extension for $100 per person, per night the Adriatic: Croatia, Montenegro, Bosnia & • Conclude your main trip with more time Herzegovina, and Slovenia adventure—for a in Sliema for just $150 per person, per night total cost of $9140-14,290 per person—and save $900-1400 per person versus taking • Remain in Rome after your post-trip each trip separately. extension for $175 per person, per night

Accommodations are at the same hotels where AIR PREFERENCES you begin or end the main trip and optional 54% of our travelers customize their air extensions, so transitions will be seamless. itineraries:

NEW! Stopover in any major international city • Choose your departure city and airline Travelers with O.A.T. airfare have the • Depart from one city and return to another opportunity to stopover in popular cities en • Upgrade to Premium Economy or route to your main adventure. Speak with one Business Class of our Regional Adventure Counselors to learn more about your options and to arrange your FREEDOM OF CHOICE DURING YOUR international airfare. ADVENTURE Our itineraries provide a balance of included You are free to choose however you’d like activities and free time so you always have to spend this additional time exploring, the flexibility to participate in included including the tours you take, activities you activities, go off on your own entirely, or do a plan, and restaurants you visit. If you’d like mix of both.

7 GRAND CIRCLE FOUNDATION Changing people’s lives, one village, one school, one person at a time

GIVING BACK TO THE WORLD WE TRAVEL Dear Traveler, Since our inception in 1992, the Grand Circle In 1992 we established Grand Circle Foundation has pledged or donated more than Foundation, an entity of the Lewis Family $200 million to projects around the world. Foundation, as a means to give back to the world that had already given us so JOIN OUR GENEROUS TRAVELERS much. We’ve pledged or donated more We consider each and every one of our travelers than $200 million worldwide to support to be partners in our worldwide giving. the education of young people and the Some travelers, however, are so inspired by preservation of international treasures the schools and villages they visit, they are and UNESCO World Heritage Sites. compelled to give more. In fact, our travelers have donated more than $1 million in 2019 Of , none of this would be possible alone. And because we have no administrative without your help. A portion of the costs, 100% of donations are used to help proceeds of every adventure is donated to change people’s lives. Grand Circle Foundation—so just as your life will be enriched by the discoveries BETTER OUR OWN COMMUNITIES— you’ll make on your journey, you’ll also ALL AROUND THE WORLD help to enrich the lives of the people you’ll In addition to the destinations where we travel, meet along the way. we strive to better the communities where Thank you for traveling with us, and for we work—from our headquarters in Boston helping to change people’s lives. to our 36 offices around the world. In Boston, more than 99% of our associates participate Love and peace, in community service each year. Worldwide, nearly all of our offices organize annual community service events of their own. Harriet R. Lewis Chair, Grand Circle Foundation How you can help To learn more about ongoing Foundation projects, you can sign up for our weekly e-newsletter, the Inside Scoop, at www.oattravel.com/community/the- inside-scoop. When you do, you’ll not only receive updates on Grand Circle Foundation, but the latest news and discoveries on all things Grand Circle and Overseas Adventure Travel.

SCAN ME See how Grand Circle Foundation is giving back in this video Open the camera feature on your mobile device, and hover the lens over this code to scan it. A pop-up notification will take you www.grandcirclefoundation.org directly to the video.

8 THE LEADER IN SOLO TRAVEL in Italy & Malta—and Around the World

ON THIS ADVENTURE … FREE or low-cost Single Supplements: We The leader in solo-friendly have a limited number of FREE or low-cost travel for Americans—by single supplements on this adventure and the numbers FREE Single Supplements optional trip extensions—a savings of $200-$1000 per person compared to other travel companies. More than 50% of all O.A.T. But single spaces fill quickly, so early travelers are women who travel solo reservations are advised.

In 2022, we’re offering 30,000 One of our most popular trips for solo singles spaces across all O.A.T. travelers. More than 420 solo travelers joined adventures. That’s 86% more than us on this adventure in 2018 and 2019—either offered in 2019 independently or sharing a room with a mother, daughter, sister, or friend. 92% of our 30,000 single spaces High ratings: More than 94% of these solo have FREE Single Supplements. The travelers rated their adventure excellent. remaining 8% have the lowest single supplements in the industry. Since you will be joined by others traveling independently in your group, it’s easy to forge In 2022, we’re offering exclusive special bonds as you experience unforgettable 25 women’s departures on some of our moments together. most popular itineraries

You’ll be in good hands, thanks to your dedicated local Trip Experience Leader (a resident of Italy or Malta), and the expertise of NEW! 101+ SCAN ME our regional office team in Rome. Tips for Solo Women Travelers Increased Single Space: In 2022, we have 4% This complimentary, 96-page more single spaces than in 2019, with up to booklet is a comprehensive 5 single spaces per departure. See available collection of savvy tips single space at www.oattravel.com/vma2022. specifically for seasoned women travelers going solo. Learn about safety for solos, packing like a pro, the best travel apps, self-care on the road, and more. Scan this code to view an online copy or to request one by mail.

9 The lowest price and per diems in the travel industry—guaranteed! Undiscovered Adriatic: Eastern Italy, Venice, Puglia & Malta Small Ship Adventure Italy:ÁāłĢóā̇˜ÖƑāłłÖ̇”āŭÖũŋ̇zũŶŋłÖ̇¦ũāĿĢŶĢRŭķÖłùŭ̇mŋłŋťŋķĢ̇ķðāũŋðāķķŋ̇zŶũÖłŶŋ̳Ά̳San Marino Ά Sicily: œĢũÖóŽŭÖ̳Ά̳Malta: Valletta, Mdina, Hagar Qim, Three Cities

Countries: 2Ά!ĢŶĢāŭ̆12Ά11 Nights Aboard Our Privately Owned 50-Passenger M/V ũŶāĿĢŭ̵or M/V Athena

Small Groups: 20-25 travelers—guaranteed! It’s Included (average of 22)

Services of our local Trip Experience 38 meals: 15 , 10 , FROM PER DAY DAYS • • Leader with your group of 20-25 13 dinners—including 1 Home-Hosted $6595 $388 17 (average of 22) throughout Lunch—plus all onboard house beer, your adventure , and soft drinks Including international airfare • International airfare, airport • 22 guided tours (with personal transfers, government taxes, fees, headsets) and cultural experiences Single Supplement: FREE and airline fuel surcharges, unless Gratuities for local guides and you choose to make your own air • motorcoach drivers arrangements Maximize Your • All port charges • Accommodations for 2 nights in Discoveries & Value Venice, 11 nights aboard our privately • Baggage handling for 1 piece of owned small ship with wireless luggage per person, including tips Optional extension s : Internet access, and 2 nights in Malta • 5% Frequent Traveler Credit toward Ljubljana & Trieste: World War II your next trip to the Present SCAN ME 5 nights pre-trip from $1695 Watch our #1 most popular video Travel from only $339 per night for this adventure Rome: Ancient Sites & Hidden City Gems Open the camera feature on your mobile device, and hover the lens over this code to scan it. A pop-up notification will 4 nights post-trip from $1095 take you directly to the video. Travel from only $274 per night

Rialto Bridge, Venice, Italy

Undiscovered Adriatic: Eastern Italy, Venice, Puglia & Malta

10 Itinerary Summary

Pre-trip extension: 5 nights in Ljubljana & Trieste: World War II to the Present

DAYS DESTINATION

1 Depart U.S.

2-3 Venice

4 Outer Venetian Lagoon

5-8 Northern Coastal Italy

9-13 Southern Coastal Italy

14-16 Malta

17 Return to U.S. What to Expect Post-trip extension: 4 nights in Rome: Ancient Sites & Hidden City Gems

Pacing: 17 days, with two 2-night hotel stays and 11 nights aboard the M/V Artemis or M/V Athena Physical requirements: Walk 3-5 miles unassisted and participate in 6-8 hours of Arrive Early, Stay Later physical activities each day, including stairs. Good agility, balance, and strength is Prices below include accommodations, needed for boarding motorboats and possible rough seas. daily breakfast, and private airport Flight time: Travel time will be 8-20 hours and will most likely have one connection transfer. View all physical requirements at www.oattravel.com/vma2022 • Arrive early in Venice for your main trip for $250 per person, per night Eastern Italy and Malta: The O.A.T. Difference • Arrive early in Ljubljana on your pre-trip extension for $100 per person, per night

Unbeatable Value: Travel at the lowest per diems in the industry, with 22 small • Conclude your main trip with more group activities and 39 included meals. With this wealth of included features, time in Sliema for just $150 per person, per night unbeatable value, and comprehensive itinerary, 89% of travelers rated this trip excellent. • Remain in Rome after your post-trip extension for $175 per person, per night People-to-People Experiences: Join a family for a Home-Hosted Lunch in the fishing village of Ortona to sample eastern Italy’s rustic cuisine and learn firsthand about life on the coast. Plus, during our NEW A Day in the Life, meet with a Mastro Trullaro or “Master of Trulli,” a community leader who carries on the knowledge of the distinctive construction of trulli huts in the Apulian village of Alberobello.

O.A.T. Exclusives: Travel by small ship to see a side of Italy most Americans miss, and make local connections that are only possible with O.A.T. As you travel, you’ll talk with local experts about Controversial Topics, like the effect of widespread pollution on Mediterranean agriculture, the influence of the mafia, and anti- More than 89% of travelers corruption journalism in Malta. rated this trip excellent

Information & Reservations 1-800-955-1925 www.oattravel.com/vma2022

11 Undiscovered Adriatic: Eastern Italy, Venice, Puglia & Malta

YOUR DETAILED ITINERARY

BEGIN YOUR ADVENTURE WITH AN OPTIONAL PRE-TRIP EXTENSION 5 nights in Ljubljana & Trieste: World War II to the Present

Day 1 Depart U.S. Day 5 Explore Trieste, Italy • Foiba Massacres conversation Day 2 Ljubljana, Slovenia Day 6 Trieste • Optional Villages of Day 3 Explore Ljubljana tour Day 4 Explore Postojna Caves • Day 7 Trieste • Winery visit • Venice • Trieste, Italy Join main trip

Day 1 Depart U.S. Morning/Afternoon: Arrive in Venice between 9am and 4pm today, where you’ll be met at the Depart today on your flight to Venice, Italy. airport by an O.A.T. representative. You’ll take Please refer to your individual air itinerary for a 5-10 minute car transfer to the dock, where exact departure and arrival times. you’ll embark on a 45-minute transfer to your hotel in true Venetian style—cruising the city’s Day 2 Venice, Italy canals aboard a private water taxi. • Destination: Venice Upon arrival, you’ll meet your Trip Experience • Accommodations: Hotel Palazzo Giovanelli Leader, as well as travelers who took the or similar optional Ljubljana & Trieste: World War II to the Activity Note: You will transfer from the Present pre-trip extension. Then, you’ll check in airport to your hotel via water taxi today. and receive your room assignments. Agility will be required to board these small You’ll spend two nights in your motorboats. Venice is occasionally impacted centrally-located Venetian hotel, where you’ll by flooding—especially during October enjoy easy access to the city’s famous sites, and November—so you may want to bring trattorias (restaurants), and cafés. You may waterproof boots. They are also available for also choose to take advantage of the hotel’s purchase in Venice for $5-$10 USD. amenities. Depending on where you stay, your room may feature air-conditioning, wireless Internet access at a charge, TV, telephone, safe,

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

12 and private bath. Hotel amenities may include among Venice’s waterways, now a rare sight and on-site restaurant and bar as well as a in the age of motorized gondolas—and learn lounge area. to row the old fashioned way: standing up and facing forward. Those travelers who arrive this afternoon around 1:30pm will embark on an optional • How to get there: Around a 20-minute orientation walk led by your Trip Experience walk from your hotel. Leader. Those who arrive later around 4:30pm • Hours: 10am-4pm, daily, November- will meet their fellow travelers and Trip March; 8:30am-4pm, daily, April-October. Experience Leader over a cup of coffee at the • Cost: Approximately $45-$50 USD per hotel bar. person for groups of more than 8 people. • Travel by boat to Murano Island for a special Dinner: On your own—your Trip Experience behind-the-scenes look at the world-famous Leader can provide recommendations based Colleoni Glass Factory. During a 2.5-hour on your preferences. Perhaps you’ll delve tour, you’ll meet with master artisans and into Venice’s seafood scene and try baccala observe local craftsmen at work to learn about mantecato, a popular fish-based antipasto. the origins of the classical millefiori tech- Evening: You are free to return to your nique—the secret recipe that puts Murano room to rest after your overseas flight, or glass a cut above the competition. You’ll also you may venture out to experience Venice’s hear how the Colleoni factory puts its own famous bridges and dramatic architecture innovative spin on this traditional method. illuminated at night. Then, enjoy a chance to try it out yourself during a lesson, guided by a master of the Freedom To Explore: During your two full days craft, which will result in a souvenir that you in Venice, you have the freedom to discover might treasure forever—a glassblown bead or this city on your own during your free time. mosaic created by your very own hand. Below are a couple of recommended options for • How to get there: About a 30-minute boat independent explorations: ride from your hotel • Experience the Venetian tradition of rowing • Hours: 9am-4pm, daily. with Row Venice. This non-profit orga- • Cost: Approximately $35 USD per person. nization is run by proud Venetian women • Explore the world of Venetian costume tai- who cherish this classic art, many of whom loring at Atelier Nicolao. Established in 1980, compete professionally. These vogatrici the atelier is now a premier source for refined (rowers) will share their passion for this period costumery. Enjoy a special group tour, mode of transportation, as old as Venice led by the owner, Stefano Nicolao himself. itself, and impart their knowledge onto Hear him tell the story of how his passion for you during a lesson in which you’ll learn to hand-crafted tailoring and fine detail led him navigate the canals yourself. You’ll climb to found the business, and eventually become aboard a sturdy, reliable, old-fashioned a world leader in the industry, running an batela boat—once the most common vessel atelier that produces costumes featured in operas, ballets, and television programs around the world. During your tour, you’ll watch expert tailors ply their trade as they craft new pieces, and visit the showroom,

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

13 where more than 10,000 pieces are proudly famous Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square). featured on display. Your tour even includes a The city’s major attractions are centered here, parting gift—a typical Venetian tricorno hat to and it is one of the most photographed squares take home with you. in all of Europe. Dominated by St. Mark’s • How to get there: About a 10- to 20-min- Basilica, the spacious square is surrounded with ute walk from your hotel. outdoor cafés, and is the perfect place to do a • Hours: 9am-1pm; 2pm-6pm; little people-watching. Monday-Friday. By around 1pm, we’ll have arrived at St. • Cost: Around $45-$50 USD for tour and a Mark’s Basilica for a half-hour tour of this hat. impressive locale.

Day 3 Explore Venice Afternoon: After the tour, you may join your Trip Experience Leader for spritz and chichetti, • Destination: Venice or a light and refreshing Italian cocktail • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner and snack, near St. Mark’s Square. This is • Accommodations: Hotel Palazzo Giovanelli an opportunity to enjoy people-to-people or similar interactions at a spot where true Venetians go Breakfast: Beginning at 7am, enjoy a to relax. Starting at 1:30pm, enjoy the rest of buffet-style breakfast at your hotel, with your afternoon at leisure. You are free to relax American and Italian options available. Options in your hotel room, venture out and explore may include scrambled eggs, fresh bread, cured the city’s many shops and cafés, or enjoy meats, fruit, , cereal, and Italian pastries. sightseeing.

Morning: This morning at 9:30am, meet your Lunch: On your own. Ask your Trip Experience Trip Experience Leader and fellow travelers in Leader where to find an authentic Italian meal, the hotel lobby for a Welcome Briefing. During a taste of home, or whatever cuisine you would this conversation, you’ll introduce yourself and like to enjoy. review our itinerary in more detail (including Dinner: Meet your Trip Experience Leader any changes that may need to occur). Your Trip back at your hotel around 6:15pm, at which Experience Leader will also discuss logistics, point you and your fellow travelers will take a safety and emergency procedures, and answer ten-minute walk to a local restaurant. Enjoy questions you may have. This is your chance an included Welcome Dinner starting around to get them answered firsthand, whether you 6:30pm. Your choices may consist of a salad have questions about a particular optional tour, of shrimp, squid, and celery with and how much free time you’ll have in any given capers or and sliced beef served with location, specific activities or places you are wine, water, and bread for the table. Dinner will hoping to see, and beyond. This talk will finish conclude around 7:45pm. around 10:30am, at which point we’ll head out of the hotel together and meet our local guide Evening: Walk about 5 minutes back to your for a walking tour of Venice. hotel. If you want to continue exploring the city this evening, perhaps you’ll head back to St. Our approximate 90-minute tour begins Mark’s Square to sip a glass of vino and revel around 11am. Your tour will cover about 3 in the harmonies of café orchestras. Or, if your miles and includes visits to a bustling fish hotel isn’t located near St. Mark’s, consider market, a local glass factory, and of course, the

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14 exploring the area around Santa Stae, a Venetian café for a quick up of coffee to kick off decorated stone church that’s centrally located your morning. You might take this opportunity near bars and cafés. to chat with locals about their daily lives here before setting of on a day of discovery. Controversial Topic: Day 4 Venice • The Around 9:30am, board water taxis for a impacts of the MOSE Dam with activists 30-minute transfer to the island of Burano, Andrea Cattapan & Stefania Toffolo • arriving around 10am. Your Trip Experience Explore Burano • Embark ship • Captain’s Leader will then lead you on a 45-minute Welcome Dinner walking tour of this vibrant fishing village. • Destination: Venice Unlike the city center, which is bustling with • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner visitors from around the world, colorful Burano maintains a more relaxed, local feel. During • Accommodations: M/V Artemis or your discovery walk this morning, which M/V Athena will take you past fishermen’s cottages in a Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: Today’s activities kaleidoscope of colors, you’ll learn about the include a conversation with local experts island’s famed lace-making traditions. You Andrea Cattapan and Stefania Toffolo about may even spot local ladies weaving lace outside the Controversial Topic of the MOSE Dam, a their homes. Your tour will conclude around decades-long construction project designed to 11am at a local restaurant. prevent catastrophic flooding in Venice. During this illuminating discussion, we’ll learn about Upon arrival, we’ll engage in the Controversial the financial scandals that have plagued the Topic of the MOSE Dam project with local project, as well as the potential environmental experts Andrea Cattapan and Stefania Toffolo. impacts it might have on the Venetian lagoon. (Depending on your departure, you’ll be Read more about this conversation below. chatting with either one of these speakers.)

Activity Note: You will take another 45-minute Spearheaded in 2003, the construction of this water taxi ride today. Agility will be required highly controversial barrier has repeatedly to board the vessel. When embarking your been hindered by delays, budget overruns, small ship this afternoon, keep in mind that and scandals, resulting in a series of missed the gangplank may be steep, and elevators completion deadlines. Nearly 18 years later, are not available onboard. This Small Ship it is still under construction and slated to Adventure covers more than 800 miles, and finish in 2021. includes long stretches of sailing, where rough Born and raised in the Veneto region, Andrea sea conditions are possible. Depending on how is an active member of the Red Cross. She your small group is divided, the order of today’s is also registered with the Alpine Italian activities may vary. Association, helping to maintain trails and Breakfast: Beginning around 7am, enjoy a protected areas, as well as promoting the buffet-style breakfast at your hotel, with recovery of Alpine forests from natural American and Italian options available. disasters. She holds a master’s degree in tourism from Venice University, with an Morning: Around 9am, your small group will emphasis on the environmental fragility depart from your hotel on foot for a 20-minute of Venice and its surrounding waters. Her walk to the nearby pier. Along the way, stop at a master’s thesis was dedicated to analyzing the

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15 social, economic, and anthropic impacts of alta” and are categorized as tides of roughly imminent environmental threats—therefore, 2 feet above sea level. Venetian authorities she is a wealth of information on the MOSE actually sound alarms throughout the city to Dam project. inform the locals these tides are approaching, and unfortunately, occurrences of this natural Stefania is an active member of the Italia phenomenon are becoming all too common. Nostra, a non-profit organization aimed at protecting and advocating for Italy’s historical, As we’ll learn during our conversation, the artistic, and environmental patrimony. She effects of the MOSE Dam project haven’t been also belongs to the No Grandi Navi (“No Big exclusively positive. The development of the Ships”) association, which maintains that dam has been tainted by severe episodes of large ships—as well as the MOSE Dam—are political corruption, pertaining to the costs harming the natural environment and causing (estimated at nearly $7 billion), construction, destructive erosion. Since 2004, Stefania has management, and maintenance. The translated a number of articles about the ramifications of building this dam are believed dam for the Italian press. Today, she and her by many experts to be harmful and not nearly husband work together to advocate for the as effective as alternative systems employed long-term preservation of Venice, as well as by neighboring European countries like the for local business owners who are suffering Netherlands and England, which also contend as a result of the rising waters. Stefania is a with similar issues. Furthermore, from an Venetian resident—one of few Venetians born environmental perspective, experts believe and raised here who remain. To put this in that the dam will have an irreversible impact context, Venice sees nearly 30 million tourists on the lagoon, permanently damaging the per year, while the permanent population of seabed. For instance, the gates of the dam are “The Floating City” is just around 260,000. anchored by thousands of 125-foot-long steel and concrete piles drilled deep into the ground, MOSE is an Italian acronym which translates to creating a domino of possible consequences experimental electro-mechanical module, but to the hydrogeological balance. Of course, the name also refers to Moses parting the Red marine biologists are also concerned about the Sea. This allusion makes sense in the context delicate natural ecosystem, which is already of the dam’s purpose, which is to safeguard at high-risk due to regular sewage dumping in Venice from rising sea levels. The city suffers the canals. It’s also important to note that the from regular devastating floods, resulting in efficacy of this method has not been proven, considerable environmental and structural so a number of concerned stakeholders worry damage. Venice was constructed on a group of about possible structural failures. islands in a lagoon separated from the by a narrow strip of land. Several canals run Hearing these arguments from local experts through this small stretch of land, permitting may give you a sense of the importance of this ships to pass—along with Adriatic Sea water. issue to the people who live there, and you’ll Because of these open waterways, seawater have the opportunity to ask hard-hitting enters the lagoon when the tide rises and exits questions about this topic of debate. when it falls, occurring twice a day. Strong winds and bad weather also bring on unusually high tides, which typically last several hours. These surges are referred to by locals as “acqua

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16 Lunch: On your own around 12:15pm. Since Dinner: At 6pm, you and your fellow travelers you’re visiting an island, this is another good will be invited to the dining room for your opportunity to enjoy some of the local seafood, Captain’s Welcome Dinner. As with all the from grilled fish to fresh prawns. dinners during your cruise, you are free to sit at whichever table you please. You’ll be Afternoon: Your Trip Experience Leader offered a choice of appetizer, , entrée, will organize a meeting point where you will and dessert—including regional options and regroup with your fellow travelers around American favorites—and complimentary 2:15pm. We’ll then board the boat that will house beer, house wine, and soft drinks. transfer us via 30-minute scenic sailing to our (Half-portions are available upon request.) cruise terminal. But at this special welcome reception, you’ll After getting off the boat, we’ll walk to the also enjoy more elaborate dishes and a special cruise terminal on foot, walking about 15 cocktail. While the dress code at mealtimes minutes to board your small ship where you’ll is always relaxed and smart casual, some stay for the next eleven nights. The ship is travelers opt to wear a day dress or slacks to the staffed by a friendly, English-speaking crew Captain’s Welcome Dinner. who will be eager to welcome you aboard and Evening: Around 9pm, your small ship will set show you to your room. Each of the ship’s sail for Ravenna, weather permitting. You may outside-facing cabins features a porthole or choose to relax in the lounge, watch from the balcony, flat-screen TV, air-conditioning, and Sun Deck as Venice retreats into the distance, or its own private bath. retire to your cabin. Around 4:15pm, your Captain will conduct a safety briefing and an introduction to the ship’s Day 5 Porto Corsini • Explore Ravenna • staff. At the conclusion, you’ll have time to get Balera music performance acquainted with the ship’s common areas. The • Destination: Ravenna lounge is equipped with leather couches and • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner chairs and a specialty coffee-maker, and the • Accommodations: M/V Artemis or adjacent bar serves complimentary house beer, M/V Athena house wine, and soft drinks throughout the day. A topside Sun Deck features ample wooden deck Breakfast: Breakfast is served from 7am to chairs for admiring the scenery. Complimentary 9am today, and you’re welcome to dine at your wireless Internet is available in all cabins and convenience. common areas—the front desk staff will be Morning: Your ship will dock in the industrial happy to provide you with an access code. port of Porto Corsini around 7am this morning. Make your way to the lounge around 5:45pm Beginning at around 9am, you and your small for the first in a series of nightly Port Talks. group will join your Trip Experience Leader in These informative discussions, led by your Trip the ship’s lobby. Then board a motorcoach for Experience Leader, will give you an overview of your half-hour transfer to Ravenna, arriving the following day’s itinerary, and prepare you around 9:45am for your tour with a local guide. for the destination ahead. Throughout most of the Renaissance and Middle Ages, Ravenna was a papal city, and its architecture and expansive mosaic work reflect

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17 that early Christian influence. On a walking Day 6 Pesaro • Explore the Republic of tour with a local guide, you’ll witness the city’s San Marino highlights, including the tomb of writer Dante, • Destination: San Marino as well as the colorful mosaics adorning both the 1,400-year-old Basilica di San Vitale and • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner the Mausoleo Galla Placida. Your tour concludes • Accommodations: M/V Artemis or around 12:15pm in bustling Piazza del Popolo. M/V Athena Activity Note: You’ll travel one hour by Lunch: Walk to a local restaurant, arriving motorcoach to reach San Marino today. San around 12:30pm, where you’ll have the Marino is an independent republic, so you opportunity to sample seasonal . will need to bring your passport for your This may include tasting traditional cheeses morning tour. like squacquerone—a creamy and soft cheese with herbaceous notes—as well as cold cuts, Breakfast: Breakfast service begins in the ship’s roasted potatoes, and served with beer dining room at 7am. or water. Morning: Around 8am, your small ship will Afternoon: Beginning at around 2:30pm, a dock in Pesaro, a small port mainly used for shuttle bus will be available for travelers who fishing vessels and sail boats. Buses begin wish to return to the ship. Or, you may choose departing around 8:45am for a 45-minute to spend the afternoon exploring Ravenna at transfer to the independent republic of San your own pace. Strolling along the unassuming Marino, one of the world’s smallest states. Life city streets, you’ll encounter open shops, here is essentially the same as life in Pesaro and intimate cafés tucked into alleyways, and locals the people of San Marino still identify as Italian, zipping past on bicycles. If the morning has but perhaps with an additional bit of hometown whetted your appetite for more mosaics, seek pride. Upon arrival around 9:30am, you’ll head out the collection at Battistero degli Ariani. to the heart of Old Town by funicular (cable You can also examine an array of artistic car). Your local guide will welcome you to town achievements spanning the centuries at the and introduce him or herself around 10:30am. Mar, the city’s fine arts museum. The last shuttle bus departs Ravenna for the ship at After meeting your guide, begin with a approximately 4:30pm. discovery walk along the cobbled, sloping streets. Explore the labyrinth of ancient lanes At around 6:45pm, gather with your fellow and discover the small shops weaving through travelers in the lounge for your nightly the city. We may stroll by the 17th-century Port Talk. Ducal Palace, adorned with an ancient fountain, and explore the Piazza del Popolo located in Dinner: Served in the ship’s dining room the center of town. Your walk will finish around around 7pm. You’ll have your choice of soup, 11:45am, followed by a little over an hour of appetizer, entrée, and dessert. free time. For a small fee (about 5 Euros), you Evening: At around 8:30pm, you are invited to can get your passport stamped—your Trip the lounge, where a local performance group Experience Leader will be happy to show you will treat you to traditional balera music. Your where to go. ship sets sail for Pesaro late tonight.

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18 At around 1pm, you’ll re-convene with your rooms that chronicle Rossini’s fascinating small group and walk about five minutes to a life as a composer and a man. You’ll see local restaurant for lunch. how the compositions and characters of his iconic operas reflected the tumultuous life Lunch: This meal may include porcini he led, and how his musical influence shaped mushroom soup, salad with grana cheese opera today. and , scallops, potatoes, seasonal , or local cake. • How to get there: Around a 10-minute taxi ride from Pesaro port, about $18 USD one Afternoon: After lunch, you’ll take a way. ten-minute walk to your bus and make a • Hours: 10am-6pm, Tuesday-Sunday 45-minute transfer back to your ship, arriving (except July and August when open daily). around a little after 3pm. Enjoy some free time • Cost: About $12 USD per person. onboard to relax. Perhaps you’ll utilize the • Engage in a true surround-sound experience books and games stocked in the lounge. at the Sonosfera: This amphitheater-like Or, take advantage of the optional shuttle auditorium was built to be “acoustically between your small ship and the Pesaro town perfect,” and you’ll experience just that when center, a ride of about 10 minutes. You have the you hear the eco-acoustic works of David option to explore Pesaro on your own or join Monacchi, who spearheaded the Sonosfera your Trip Experience Leader for an elective project in 2014. It’s fitting this unique expe- activity. You’ll take the shuttle bus back to the rience can only be found in what is largely pier around 5:30pm. considered a musical capital of Italy. • How to get there: About a 10-minute taxi At approximately 5:45pm, your Trip Experience ride from Pesaro port, around $18 USD one Leader will deliver a Port Talk about your next way. destination. • Hours: By appointment, daily. Dinner: Around 6pm, join fellow travelers in • Cost: About $10 USD per person. the dining room for dinner. • Discover some of the most important contemporary art in the Adriatic region at the Evening: Enjoy time at leisure on your ship. Visual Art Center “Pescheria”: Established Perhaps you’ll grab a drink with your fellow in 1996 on the site of a 19th-century fish travelers at the bar or relax in your cabin. Your market, and expanded in 2001, the museum ship remains docked in Pesaro overnight. is focused on celebrating and promoting the Freedom To Explore: During your two full days work of contemporary Italian artists, and in Pesaro, you have the freedom to discover establishing Pesaro as one of the region’s this coastal town on your own during your free important cultural scenes. The museum’s time. Below are a few recommended options for rotating exhibitions give internationally re- independent explorations: nowned artists and up-and-coming creators a place to show off their work and grow their • Make your way into the musical history reputation. If you visit while an exhibition is of Pesaro at Museo Nazionale Rossini: Dedicated to the renowned composer Gioachino Rossini, who was born in Pesaro in 1792, the museum is made up of several

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19 in progress, you may even have the chance to Around 1pm, you’ll re-board the bus and connect personally with the featured artists travel 20 minutes to a local farmhouse in the to converse about their work. countryside, where we’ll meet the owners. • How to get there: About a 15-minute walk They’ll welcome us and explain how the farm is from the Port of Pesaro. run and what we’ll be eating this afternoon. • Hours: 4:30pm-7:30pm, Friday-Sunday. Lunch: At the farmhouse around 1:30pm. • Cost: Around $3 USD per person. It may consist of the different cheeses that they produce on the farm, farro salad Day 7 Pesaro, Italy • Explore Urbino • or agnolotti with homemade Farmhouse lunch , cured meats from the farm, and • Destination: Urbino homemade biscuits. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Afternoon: After lunch, hop on the bus once • Accommodations: M/V Artemis or more and begin your return trip to Pesaro M/V Athena around 2:45pm. Activity Note: To reach Urbino today, Upon re-embarking the ship around 3:30pm, you’ll travel around one hour each way via enjoy some free time this afternoon to relax motorcoach. onboard or to further explore Pesaro. You may Breakfast: Breakfast service begins in the ship’s choose to join your Trip Experience Leader for a dining room at 6:45am. walk along the shore to take in views of colorful fishing vessels bobbing in the Adriatic. Around Morning: After breakfast, we’ll board our 5:45pm, join your Trip Experience Leader for bus a little after 8:45am for the approximate tonight’s Port Talk. hour-long transfer to the university town of Urbino. Dinner: Onboard in the ship’s dining room from 6pm to 7pm, with a host of regional Once a thriving hub for artists in the 15th options available. century, Urbino was a direct rival of Florence during the Renaissance and still retains much Evening: You may want to relax in the lounge of the architectural splendor of the period this evening, or head up to the Sun Deck today. Its historic center, encircled by an and gaze at the night sky as your ship sails expansive city wall of sandstone and brick and toward Ortona. lined with cobblestones, was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1998. Day 8 Explore Ortona • Home-Hosted Lunch You’ll arrive around 9:30am to meet a local guide who will lead you on a walking tour along • Destination: Ortona the city’s sloped streets and through myriad • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner examples of Renaissance architecture. Your • Accommodations: M/V Artemis or approximate 1-hour tour will will conclude M/V Athena around 10:30am, at which point you’ll have free Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: Today’s activities time until around 1pm to discover Urbino on include a Home-Hosted Lunch with a family in your own. Perhaps you’ll witness picturesque Ortona. During this special meal, you and 6 to 8 views from atop the Albornoz Fortress. of your fellow travelers will dine on traditional,

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20 homemade dishes as you discuss life in eastern who work in an office or freelance often choose Italy with your hosts. Read more about this to live in apartments closer to heart of Ortona. intimate cultural experience below. During your visit, you might ask your family about Ortona’s agricultural traditions or find Breakfast: Breakfast service begins in the ship’s out more about the professional opportunities dining room at 8am. available to people living in this remote corner Morning: Around 8am, your small ship arrives of Italy. If your hosts have children, perhaps in Ortona, a small fishing village that’s home to you’ll inquire about the Italian school system. approximately 23,000 residents. During World Italy also has the second-oldest population War II, the deep harbor here was of significant in the world (after Japan); if a grandmother strategic importance. At approximately 9am, or grandfather joins you for lunch, you might a local expert will come aboard to lead a discuss the country’s tight-knit family conversation about the fierce Battle of Ortona structure. Whatever questions you have about that was waged here. life in eastern Italy, this is your opportunity to ask. Italians are known for their conviviality, Around 10:25am, you’ll depart for the short and your hosts will be eager to share their ride to the city center via motorcoach, arriving culture with you. around 10:30am. A walking tour with your Trip Experience Leader will reveal a town At times, however, you may find yourself reborn, dominated by the 15th-century distracted from the lively conversation by Castello Aragonese (Aragon Castle) and the another Italian specialty: food. One of the twelfth-century Duomo d’Ortona (Ortona most popular dishes in Ortona is pasta alla Cathedral) and bordered by white-sand beaches chitarra con ragù di carne, featuring handmade busy with Italian vacationers. During our walk, pasta (similar to ) topped with a we may stop to talk to retirees and other local tomato-and-meat sauce. You might also have people about what life is like here. the chance to sample (soup with beans) or pallotte cace e ove (meatballs with Just before noon, you may have free time to cheese and egg). Be sure to save room for explore independently. Perhaps you’ll choose to something sweet: In this region, the preferred bike along Ortona’s cobblestone streets. dessert is e neole, a waffle-like pastry that is believed to have originated with Lunch: At around 12:45pm you’ll regroup at a the Romans. designated meeting point to prepare for your Home-Hosted Lunch. For a more intimate Afternoon: You’ll be picked up by a car around experience, your Trip Experience Leader will 2:15pm and make a half-hour transfer back to divide everyone into even smaller groups of just the ship. Enjoy time to relax and reflect on your 6 to 8 travelers. Our host families will collect cultural interaction today, or take advantage of each small group at the meeting point and drive the shuttle bus to and from Ortona throughout approximately 10 to 15 minutes to their homes the afternoon if you’d like to explore further. to begin this special meal. Your Trip Experience Leader will deliver a Port Talk around 7:15pm. The type of home you visit will depend on your host family’s background: Individuals who Dinner: Join your fellow travelers in the dining work in agriculture or fishing, or who prefer a room around 7:30pm. quieter lifestyle, typically live in farmhouses a bit further from the city center. Individuals

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21 Evening: A folk group will come aboard to Island around 12:30pm for a discovery walk perform traditional songs in the lounge around with your Trip Experience Leader. During 8:30pm. Your ship sets sail for the Tremiti this walk you’ll explore along the woods and Islands late tonight. sandy coastlines that some Italians visit in the summertime. You’ll pass through the village Day 9 Explore Tremiti Islands and see a small school and city hall, but notice that this island is fairly small and quiet despite • Destination: Tremiti Islands its scenic appeal. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner • Accommodations: M/V Artemis or Lunch: You’ll have lunch in a local restaurant M/V Athena around 1:15pm, where you’ll arrive at the end of your walk. Activity Note: To reach the Tremiti Islands, you will need to embark and disembark Afternoon: Starting around 2:30pm, travelers shuttle boats without the use of gangplanks or will have about an hour and a half free in handrails. The tour includes a mile and a half San Domino. of walking over uneven, hilly terrain, and lasts Then, we’ll gather together for our boat back approximately two hours. Hats, walking sticks, to San Nicola with our Trip Experience Leader, walking shoes, and sunscreen are advised. after which you have the afternoon at leisure. Breakfast: Breakfast service begins in the ship’s You may choose to explore San Domino by foot dining room at 6:45am. or aboard a bicycle, or simply return to the ship to relax. Shuttles will be at your disposal for Morning: Your ship will either anchor near or the latter. dock in San Nicola, depending on the weather. If you anchor, a small boat will be available to All travelers will be invited to the lounge at take you to the shore. This is one of the scenic approximately 4:45pm for a Port Talk. Tremiti Islands you’ll explore today. Dinner: At 5pm, join your fellow travelers in the Around 9am you will meet your Trip Experience dining room. Leader in the lobby, disembarking together Evening: Yours to do as you please—you around 9:30am. A local friend of your Trip may share your experiences with your fellow Experience Leader will meet you immediately travelers in the lounge, or retire early after outside, and you’ll begin your walking tour. A a discovery-filled day. Your ship sets sail for brief stroll up the island’s slopes and along its Monopoli late tonight. ancient fortifications will lead to the hilltop abbey of Saint Mary of the Sea, where you’ll enjoy sweeping views of the Adriatic before walking back down the hill. Around 10:30am, you’ll have free time to explore the island’s green hills and coastlines on your own.

Around 11am, you’ll take a ten-minute walk to the pier to board a boat. After a 1-hour and 15-minute scenic boat ride around the turquoise waters of San Domino and San Nicola Islands, you’ll disembark on San Domino

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22 Day 10 Explore Monopoli • Explore schools—the method is purely preserved in Alberobello • A Day in the Life of the mind of the Mastro Trullaro and his or her Alberobello and an Apulian farmstead apprentices. • Destination: Monopoli Francesco Serra began learning this ancient • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner art form since he was just 15 years old to follow • Accommodations: M/V Artemis or in his family’s footsteps. While Francesco is M/V Athena very young to be a master, he has been able to learn from two former Mastro Trullaro, his Activity Note: Depending on how your small grandfather and father. In 1973, Francesco’s group is split up for A Day in the Life, you may dad started his own business, and now with the experience today’s activities on Day 11. Your help of Francesco, he continues to preserve this Trip Experience Leader will have your specific local tradition. We’ll have about 30 minutes schedule available for you on the day. to speak with Francesco, witness some of his Breakfast: Breakfast service begins in the ship’s work, and have an opportunity to ask any dining room at 8am. questions we may have.

Morning: Your small ship docks in Monopoli Then around 11:15am, we’ll depart by private around 7am. At approximately 8:30am, you and motorcoach for the 30-minute drive to a your small group will begin your 30-minute local Masseria, an ancient farmer’s residency overland transfer to Alberobello by bus. Upon that represents the heart of the rural Apulian arrival, you’ll walk about 15 minutes to the identity. Surrounded by groves, vineyards, city center, where you’ll be met by community and stone fortifications, this UNESCO World leader Carlotta Magli, who will begin our NEW Heritage farmhouse used to serve as a meeting A Day in the Life discoveries by leading us on place for the farmers and their families. At the an approximately 45-minute walking tour end of a laborious day, they would convene of the area. During our explorations, we’ll in the house for mass, celebratory events, witness the conical-roofed homes, or trulli, community meals, and other social gatherings. that line the hilly streets of this UNESCO Today, the 40-acre farm remains fully World Heritage Site and have the opportunity operational and produces a variety of products, to ask Carlotta any questions we have about including extra virgin , , cheese, this unique community. Later in the day, we’ll and other agricultural commodities. The olive get to know the family of Carlotta, including trees that line the property are referred to her mother and sister, at their ancient as “secular,” indicating the many centuries farmstead. But first, around 10am, we’ll meet they’ve occupied the land. Of the trees, there with a Mastro Trullaro or “Master of Trulli,” a are three varieties: Leccino, Ogliarola, and high-ranking community figure who carries on Cime di Melfi. Leccino produces a fruity and the knowledge of the distinctive construction aromatic olive oil, Ogliarola is quite mild, and of Trulli huts. Historically, these structures Cime di Melfi denotes a spicy, robust flavor. were built using dry stone masonry, meaning The livestock on the property include horses, without the adhesive power of mortar or chickens, pigs, goats and cows. The cows are a cement. Maintenance on the huts is, therefore, special breed called Podolica, a type of domestic highly specialized, requiring skilled carpentry cattle native to southern Italy. These particular that is passed down through generations. This technique cannot be learned in trade

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23 bovine are typically used more for their meat At about 12:15pm, we’ll venture back to the than their milk, whereas the goats are generally farmhouse, where we’ll help Carlotta with food used as a source for milk. preparation and setting up the table.

At around 11:45am, we’ll meet with Mariella Lunch: Around 12:30pm at the farmhouse and her two daughters, Wanda and Carlotta, with Mariella, Carlotta, and Wanda, featuring current owners and descendants of the fresh-grown vegetables and various regional former farmers who lived here. We’ll begin specialties. our explorations with an introduction to the Afternoon: Following lunch, we’ll help the family history accompanied by a refreshment, family clean up before putting our cooking followed by a walk around the gently rolling skills to the test during a bread- and property led by Carlotta. Carlotta is just 30 cheese-making tutorial with Mariella and years old, but despite her age, she is viewed Wanda. The bread and cheese we make this as the community leader and has taken on afternoon will eventually be sold at local the responsibility of helping her mother markets (the cheese must first age for some rebuild the family farm, work the land, and time). The type of goods we produce depend on care for the animals. She also helps sell their ingredient availability; however, it is likely the homemade bread and cheese at local farmer’s bread we’ll make will either be pane casareccio, markets like the Coldiretti Market in Brindisi. ancient bread traditionally grown in As a public figure in the community, Carlotta southern Italy or pane , a round, hardy leads a women’s farmer’s union called variety typically paired with wine, and for the Coldiretti Donne Impresa, which promotes cheese, we’ll either make a classic or the development of women-led agricultural, pecorino primo sale. We’ll have about 1 hour to entrepreneurial, and cultural initiatives. watch, learn, and try our hand at kneading the This association also draws up social policy , shaping the cheese, and getting the proposals that lobby for gender equality hang of producing these specialty . The amongst local government authorities. Carlotta recipes we’ll be following are ones that date is specifically responsible for connecting all back centuries, but that are still cherished and the women farmers and marketing programs adhered to in the modern culinary traditions that teach them how to sustainably invest in of Puglia. their respective agricultural businesses. We’ll have an opportunity to learn more about these Around 2:30pm, we’ll depart for a 30-minute initiatives during our time with her and ask any private motorcoach transfer back to our ship, questions we may have. arriving around 3:15pm. After a couple hours of free time, your Trip Experience Leader will Around noon, we’ll begin preparing for our deliver a Port Talk at 5:45pm. lunch by harvesting fresh vegetables for our “Acqua Sala” or farmer’s salad. The type of Dinner: At 7:30pm, join your fellow travelers in produce we pick depends on the season, but the dining room. may include zucca pumpkin, eggplant, green beans, wild strawberries, or loquat. We’ll learn Evening: Free to do as you please—perhaps about the various endemic vegetables that grow you’ll enjoy a complimentary beverage here, as well as have an opportunity to sample at the bar. fresh olives during a tasting led by Wanda.

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24 Freedom To Explore: During your two full days • Discover the gem of a nearby town known in Monopoli, you have the freedom to discover as the “Pearl of the Adriatic” when you visit this town on the Adriatic on your own during Polignano A Mare: Located just outside Bari, your free time. Below are a few recommended the town is sprinkled with jagged cliffs and options for independent explorations: caves and surrounded by crystalline waters. And the town is rich with history, too, with • Take a ride on a gozzo: See Monopoli from ruins reflecting the Byzantine, Spanish, and a different point of view during a gentle Norman influences that shaped its architec- ride aboard a traditional oar-driven gozzo ture and culture. (wooden boat). You’ll be joined by an expe- rienced fisherman, who will guide you along • How to get there: An approximate the waters, following the path of the ancient 10-minute taxi ride, around $16 USD one city walls, giving his perspective on local way, or a 5-minute train ride, around $2 history, and sharing stories about life in the USD one way. town. You’ll also get a lesson on how to steer • Hours: All hours, daily. a gozzo, and enjoy the opportunity to try your • Cost: Free. hand with a line and hook to catch the bounty Controversial Topic: of the sea yourself—including octopi, a local Day 11 Monopoli • specialty. The environmental issues of Puglia with Jocelyne Jawhar & Enzo Marzano • How to get there: About a 20-minute walk • Optional Matera Troglodyte City tour from the city center; around 5 minutes by public shuttle. • Destination: Monopoli • Hours: Choose tour lengths between 1.5 • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner hours and 4 hours; daily, depending on • Accommodations: M/V Artemis or weather conditions. M/V Athena Cost: Varies depending on selected itiner- • Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: Today’s activities ary. Contact Monopoli tourism in advance include a conversation about the Controversial to reserve, and for more details. Topic of environmental issues in the Puglia • Delight your senses on a street food tour of region with Jocelyne Jawhar, an expert on Bari: Take a private tour along cobbled streets plant pathology, and Enzo Marzano, a local with a local guide around the city, including olive farmer. Puglia is one of Italy’s top olive historic Old Town with its iconic Basilica of St. oil-producing regions, but as we’ll learn Nicholas. Throughout your walk, you’ll taste during our conversation today, the industry some of the region’s finest delicacies, from is being ravaged by a bacterial plant disease fresh burrata cheese, to sweet homemade with no known cure. Read more about this . Wrap up your discoveries at a bustling activity below. local fish market. Activity Note: Today’s optional tour includes a How to get there: An approximate hour- • 3.5-hour round-trip bus ride. Matera includes long train ride, around $5 USD one way. many pathways lined with cobblestones and up Hours: By appointment only. • to 200 uneven stairs; this is the most physically Cost: Around $60 USD for a private guided • demanding day of the trip and agility and tour (minimum 2 people per booking). balance are required.

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25 Also, depending on how your small group is who journeyed to Matera will begin the split up for A Day in the Life, you may experience 1.5-hour return trip to Monopoli by motorcoach Day 11’s activities on Day 10 instead. Your at around 2:30pm, arriving back at the ship Trip Experience Leader will have your specific around 4pm. schedule available for you on the day. At approximately 5pm, gather in the ship’s Breakfast: Buffet service begins in the ship’s lounge and meet Jocelyne Jawhar, an expert dining room at 6am. on plant pathology, and Enzo Marzano, a local olive farmer, to learn about a Controversial Morning: You are free to explore Monopoli as Topic: The environmental issues impacting you please today. Your Trip Experience Leader the region—especially its ancient olive groves, will provide you with a list of activities to like the ones we saw surrounding the Masseria pursue. Perhaps you’ll head to Lido Le Macchie we visited yesterday. Italy plays a key role in beach to catch some sun along the aqua Europe’s production of locally grown food, coastline or explore the historic Roman Catholic alternative agriculture systems, and landscape cathedral and peruse the artifacts kept there. preservation—a role that has recently Or, join our optional Matera Troglodyte City come under threat. During our hour-long tour to discover one of the oldest continuously conversation, Jocelyne and Enzo will share inhabited cities in the world—and a with us how the spread of the deadly bacterial modern-day European capital of culture. plant disease, Xylella, has impacted life in the Around 8:30am, you’ll depart Monopoli for Mediterranean—and share how residents of your 1.5-hour motorcoach transfer to Matera. Puglia are working to combat it. At approximately 10am, you’ll arrive and set off Both Jocelyne and Enzo bring their own on a tour with a local guide to learn about the particular brands of expertise to this stone carving techniques that the Sassi people important subject. Jocelyne is a pivotal figure used to chisel the town into the surrounding in agricultural Puglia, especially for her rock. Go back in time as you walk past quarries, knowledge of plant pathology. She currently ravines, and sculptured gardens toward a works for the Mediterranean Agronomic network of small cave churches, crypts, and Institute of Bari—a center of applied scientific fortifications. You may see the churches of San research into sustainable agriculture in the Pietro Barisino and Santa Maria de Idris, which Mediterranean—and focuses on issues such as overlooks scenic Sasso Caveoso valley. You’ll the development of sustainable food systems want to keep an eye out for medieval paintings and their resilience to climate change. Enzo, on executed in fresco on many of the church walls. the other hand, brings his hands-on experience Your tour will finish around 12:15pm. as an olive farmer who has witnessed firsthand Lunch: Travelers who remained in Monopoli the impact of Xylella which is laying waste to today will enjoy lunch in the ship’s dining room the olive trees of Puglia. Enzo’s farm in the at around 12:30pm. If you opted for the optional south part of Puglia has been devastated and he tour, you’ll enjoy an authentic Italian lunch in a has lost a significant part of his generations-old local restaurant in Matera around 1pm. olive grove. Both he and Jocelyne are working to discover a sustainable way to cure Xylella and Afternoon: If you remained in Monopoli today, save “Apulia’s Gold”—olive oil. the balance of the day is yours to explore independently, or to relax onboard. Travelers

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26 There is no sight as quintessentially Italian Evening: Yours to do as you please. The ship as gently rolling landscapes adorned with begins cruising toward Otranto around 10pm. the knotty, twisting branches of olive trees. There are nearly 80 million olive trees bearing Day 12 Explore Otranto • Afternoon at fruit across the country—5 million of which sea • Immigration in the Mediterranean are centuries old. These ancient trees are conversation an integral part of Italian heritage, culture, and the basis of their famously healthy • Destination: Otranto Mediterranean diet. Italian olive growers • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner produce 15% of the world’s virgin olive oil, • Accommodations: M/V Artemis or worth more than $2 billion a year. Puglia in M/V Athena particular is known for its vast groves—over Activity Note: Setting sail this afternoon, your 60 million trees stand in stately rows across ship will pass by Italy’s easternmost point, the region which, until recently, produced where the Adriatic and Ionian seas converge. about 40% of Italy’s olive oil. In recent years, Out on the open waters, your ship will slip however, olive oil production has been put at between Italy and Greece bound for Sicily—the risk by the devastation of Xylella, which was southernmost destination on the Italian portion introduced to the region through an imported of your adventure. You’ll likely feel the ship roll plant back in 2013. Xylella is considered to be as it completes its 150-mile course tonight. the most dangerous plant disease in the world and currently there is no known cure. So to Breakfast: Breakfast service begins in the ship’s prevent the spread—and save the economy—a dining room at 8am. European Union commission directed Italy Morning: At around 7am, your ship arrives in to uproot and burn all trees and plants that Otranto, a port city in the far eastern corner of had been infected or even just suspected of Italy’s boot heel. Around 9am, you’ll disembark being infected. This extreme measure meant for a 15-minute shuttle ride and head into farmers like Enzo had to destroy swaths of their the heart of the city for a walking tour with precious olive trees—many of which had been a local guide. Once a strategic port during in their family for generations. Roman times, today Otranto is known for its During this hour-long conversation, we’ll talk white-sand beaches, famed Aragonese Castle, about how this disease has affected farmers and eleventh-century Romanesque cathedral. like Enzo and their families, how scientists like Your tour concludes around 10:15am, and the Jocelyne are racing to find a sustainable cure, balance of the morning is yours to do as you and how they can all work together to mitigate please. You may choose to continue to explore the damage. Otranto, or you may visit the Constantine We’ll have 30 minutes to ask Jocelyne and Enzo association with your Trip Experience Leader, any questions you may have before wrapping making a 15-minute bus transfer from town up around 6:30pm, after which we’ll segue into and arriving around 11am. This program is our nightly Port Talk. dedicated to helping marginalized women by providing them with work. Their mission is Dinner: At 7pm, join your fellow travelers in the to improve the “knowledge and competency” dining room for a dinner of . of women in the community by teaching them to weave and create handmade textiles.

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27 You’ll have a chance to talk with the program Day 13 Morning at sea • Southern Italy leader about the work she does and why she conversation • Explore Siracusa, Sicily • believes it’s important, and you’ll be able to Sicilian folk music performance meet the women participating in the program • Destination: Siracusa who are mostly marginalized due to financial circumstances. You’ll also see some of the • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner instruments used for weaving including “jaw • Accommodations: M/V Artemis or harps” and “double flutes,” and learn how they M/V Athena are used. At approximately 11:30am, a shuttle Breakfast: Breakfast service begins in the ship’s will be available to take you back to the ship, dining room at 6:45am. and you’ll arrive around 12:45pm. If you choose to spend your free time in Otranto instead of Morning: Free to do as you please as your visiting the center, a shuttle will pick you up at ship continues cruising toward Siracusa. a designated meeting point around 11:30am to Perhaps you’ll choose to relax in the bring you back to the ship. window-lined lounge as Sicily comes into view. At around 10:45am, you’ll join your Trip Lunch: Served in the dining room beginning at Experience Leader and fellow travelers for 1pm, featuring regional and familiar options. an onboard conversation about the economy, unemployment, and the mafia in Southern Afternoon: At approximately 1pm, your ship Italy. You’ll dock in Sicily around noon. sets sail for Siracusa, Sicily. You’re welcome to visit the Sun Deck to watch as the mainland Lunch: Served in the dining room fades into the distance. beginning at 12pm.

You and your fellow travelers will be invited Afternoon: At approximately 2:30pm, you’ll into the lounge around 5pm to take part in disembark in Siracusa and meet with a local a conversation about how immigration is guide for a walking tour of its Old Town, impacting Mediterranean countries with your Ortygia. Of all the Greek cities of antiquity that Trip Experience Leader. He or she will talk flourished outside of Greece, Siracusa was the about the everyday realities of immigration Mediterranean’s most important. In the heyday in Italy, including the reasons refugees (often of its power, it dared to take on both Carthage from Syria) flee their home countries, the and Rome, and its wealth and size were dangerous path they take to get to Italy, and the unmatched by any other city in the ancient mixed attitudes from native Italians. This will world. It is said that Siracusa is the birthplace be followed by a Port Talk around 6:45pm. of comedy in Greek theater, and was the only school of classical drama outside of Athens. Dinner: At 7pm, join your fellow travelers in the dining room. Today this UNESCO World Heritage Site serves as one of Europe’s richest historical sites and Evening: Free to do as you please. Your ship a photographer’s haven, complete with white will cruise toward Sicily throughout the limestone buildings, narrow winding streets, night tonight. and rich architectural details—among them, Baroque structures and a cathedral fashioned out of an ancient Greek temple. Your tour will last about an hour, and beginning at around 3:30pm, you will have time on your own to

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28 explore your own interests. You may choose to chivalric order, these Knights of Malta continue walking around the town with your founded the city more than 500 years ago Trip Experience Leader, or maybe you’ll take and continue to serve the community today. advantage of the bikes available on your ship Without the protection of the Knights, Malta’s and take a leisurely ride to the beach. Return to history—and in fact, Europe’s history—would your ship by foot, which is docked conveniently be very different than it is today. Your tour will in the heart of this destination, around 6pm. conclude around 11am.

At around 5:45pm, learn about your next Afterwards, enjoy free time to explore this destination during a Port Talk before dinner. historic city, perhaps visiting the ornately decorated St. John’s Co-Cathedral. Around Dinner: At 6pm, join your fellow travelers 12:45pm, take a convenient 15-minute walk in the dining room for dinner. As you dine, a back to your ship. Sicilian folk music group will come aboard to play traditional tunes in the lounge—complete Lunch: Served in the dining room beginning with authentic local instruments. at 1:30pm. Or, you may choose to remain in Valletta and seek out lunch on your own. Your Evening: At leisure. Feel free to enjoy a night Trip Experience Leader will be happy to provide cap at the bar. Your ship begins cruising toward recommendations. Malta at around 11pm. Afternoon: Around 3pm, we’ll gather in the Day 14 Explore Valletta, Malta • ship’s lounge to discuss the Controversial Controversial Topic: The bombshell Topic of anti-corruption activism in reporting of late journalist Daphne Malta—more specifically, the life of Daphne Caruana Galizia • Captain’s Caruana Galizia, a former investigative journalist, columnist, blogger, and Farewell Dinner anti-corruption activist. To facilitate our • Destination: Valletta discussion, we’ll be joined by an individual • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner who was very close with Daphne, but for their • Accommodations: M/V Artemis or protection, we are not at liberty to disclose M/V Athena their name.

Breakfast: Breakfast service begins in the ship’s Our conversation will cover a broad range dining room at 8am. of topics, from insatiable financial power and a culture of impunity to the dangers of Morning: Your ship docks in Valletta, investigative journalism. But at the heart Malta’s walled capital city, around 8am. At of our conversation, we will reflect on a approximately 9am, you’ll disembark in the brilliant and brave woman who—against all heart of the city and take a 15-minute walk with odds—wrote truth to power and strove to your Trip Experience Leader to the city’s center. dismantle a powerful political bubble bankrupt Around 9:15am, join your small group for of ethics. Her story is a reminder of the lengths a walking tour led by your Trip Experience journalists often must go to unveil the truth Leader, which includes a visit to the Barracca and the sacrifices they make to do so. Gardens, as well as insights into the city’s mysterious founders: the Sovereign Military Order of Malta. The world’s oldest surviving

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29 Over her 30-year career, Daphne’s work Minister’s chief of staff, Keith Schembri, both successfully exposed widespread government of whom were first reported by Daphne. In corruption, nepotism, patronage, and light of her groundbreaking reporting on Mizzi money laundering, as well as organized and Schembri, she was named by Politico as crime linked to online gambling, Malta’s one of “28 people who are shaping, shaking citizenship-by-investment scheme, and and stirring Europe,” describing her as a payments from the government of Azerbaijan. “one-woman WikiLeaks.” Her bombshell reporting largely involved Sadly, just a couple years after the scandal the lawlessness of Maltese politicians and broke, Daphne was killed by a car bomb in front other powerful figures. In the face of repeated of her home in Bidnija. At the time of her death, intimidation, threats, and libel suits, Daphne’s she was fighting 48 libel suits. The title of her commitment to uncovering the truth was last blog entry read, “That crook Schembri unfaltering, and as a result of her persistence, was in court today, pleading that he is not a she was arrested on multiple occasions by local crook.” Millions of people around the world police authorities. Despite the many forces mourned Daphne’s death—including Pope working against her, she continued publishing Francis, who penned a letter of condolence, as her investigative findings and opinion pieces well as WikiLeaks founder Julian Assange, who via her blog, Running Commentary, which she offered to pay a sum in the amount of tens of established in 2008. She was also a regular thousands of dollars for information leading to columnist with The Sunday Times of Malta and the conviction of those responsible. Although The Malta Independent. Much of her reporting three men have since been arrested, the case did not hesitate to reveal or criticize the remains open. allegedly illicit actions of various high-profile individuals, resulting in a series of legal battles. From about 4pm, the remainder of the afternoon is on your own—perhaps you’ll visit In 2016 and 2017, her reporting reached new the Lascaris War Room, where Maltese military levels of controversy when she published leaders planned their defense of the island sensitive information and explosive claims during World War II. At about 6:15pm, head linking a number of Maltese politicians to back to the ship if you’d like to join the nightly the Panama Papers scandal. The Panama Port Talk. Papers refer to 11.5 million leaked documents containing financial and attorney-client Dinner: Convene in the dining room around information for nearly 300,000 offshore 6:30pm for your Captain’s Farewell Dinner. organizations. These documents show that Like the Welcome Dinner at the beginning a number of the corporate entities were of your adventure, this special reception used as vehicles for committing fraud, tax features more elaborate dishes and a convivial evasion, and eluding international sanctions. atmosphere—a fitting way to conclude your The high-ranking principals exposed in the time onboard. scandal include former national leaders such as President Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan of Evening: Relax onboard tonight. Perhaps you’ll the United Arab Emirates, head to the top deck for star gazing. of , King Salman of Saudi Arabia, Freedom To Explore: During your two full the Prime Minister of Iceland, Sigmundur days in Malta, you have the freedom to Davíð Gunnlaugsson—as well as the Maltese experience this sun-soaked island country on government minister, Konrad Mizzi, and Prime

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30 your own during your free time. Below are a National Museum of Ethnography that offers few recommended options for independent historic context to the infamous role of the explorations: Inquisition in Malta’s complex past.

• Travel deep underground to visit the • How to get there: About a 20-minute walk Lascaris War Rooms, where Eisenhower, from the harbor. Montgomery, and other supreme Allied • Hours: 9am-5pm (last admission is at commanders conducted their campaign to 4:30pm), Monday-Saturday. retake the Mediterranean from the Nazis • Cost: Around $6 USD per person. during World War II. The tunnel complex was • Discover the 16th-century Grandmaster’s one of Malta’s best-kept secrets during the Palace in Valletta. Established by the Knights war, and you’ll have the opportunity to tour of the Order of St. John, the palace is one of the rooms where air and sea operations were the oldest buildings in the city, and is the seat conducted, and where the plans for Operation of power of Malta to this day. Its hallowed Husky—the Allied invasion of Sicily in 1943, halls and marble floors have borne witness which opened the door to the liberation of to 400 years of history, and are lined with Italy—were laid out. The complex remained impressive painted ceilings and rare works in use during the post-war era, used by of art—including the only complete set of the as its Mediterranean Fleet 18th-century French Gobelins tapestries headquarters. in the world. The palace’s armory is now a • How to get there: About a 20-minute walk museum, housing a collection of medieval from the harbor. arms, armor, and artifacts, hailing back to the • Hours: 10am-5pm (last admission is at days when the island sat as a bastion amidst a 4:30pm), Monday-Saturday. turbulent Mediterranean wracked by war. • Cost: Around $12 USD per person for adults • How to get there: About a 20-minute walk and $10 USD per person for seniors. from the harbor. • Visit the Inquisitor’s Palace of Malta—one • Hours: 10am-6pm, Monday-Friday; of the last of its kind remaining, and the 10am-4pm, Saturday; closed Sunday. only one in the world still open to the public. • Cost: Around $9 USD per person. The palace was once a meeting point for dignitaries and high-ranking officials from Day 15 Disembark ship • Explore the continent, where important diplomatic Mdina • Balzan business was conducted and religious power • Destination: Mdina was consolidated, and its well-preserved • Included Meals: Breakfast grounds offer a glimpse into the intrigues • Accommodations: The Victoria Hotel and parleys that once took place here. Today, or similar the palace features reconstructed facsimiles Breakfast: Breakfast service begins in the ship’s of historic rooms, including the Holy Office dining room at 6:45am. Tribunal, the , the prison, and the torture chamber. There is also an on-site Morning: Around 8:30am, you’ll disembark your small ship and travel 20 minutes via motorcoach to Mdina. Surrounded by thick, imposing walls, the limited access allowed to traffic gives Mdina its nickname—the

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31 “Silent City.” During your walking tour with Evening: Free to explore. You may choose to a local guide this morning, you’ll stroll along return to your hotel, or head out for an evening the winding streets, lined with buildings of stroll to uncover some of Balzan’s sprawling characteristic yellow limestone. Admire palaces sandstone palaces. now serving as private homes, and see Mdina’s Baroque cathedral anchoring a large square. Day 16 Explore Hagar Qim • Explore Three With a history that can be traced back 4,000 Cities • Balzan years, an exploration of Mdina is like a voyage • Destination: Three Cities through time—with layers of cultural and religious treasures waiting to be discovered. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner • Accommodations: The Victoria Hotel Your tour concludes at 11:15am, and you’ll enjoy or similar free time to explore independently. Perhaps Breakfast: Beginning at 7am, enjoy a you’ll venture underground to explore St. Paul’s buffet-style breakfast at your hotel, with Catacombs—a warren of ancient Roman tombs. American and Maltese options available. Lunch: On your own in Mdina. Your Trip Morning: At approximately 9:30am, you Experience Leader will be happy to provide and your small group will travel 30 minutes suggestions for where to find the best local fare. by motorcoach to Hagar Qim. You’ll explore Afternoon: Around 2pm, you’ll travel one hour the temple with your Trip Experience Leader via motorcoach to your hotel in Balzan. You’ll starting around 10:15am. This UNESCO spend two nights in your hotel, where you’ll World Heritage Site, whose name means enjoy easy access to nearby pubs, restaurants, “free-standing boulders,” boasts remains older and gardens, or take advantage of the hotel’s than Stonehenge and the Pyramids. Around amenities. Depending on where you stay, your 11:30am, you’ll travel 20 minutes overland room may feature air-conditioning, a balcony, to the area known as the “Three Cities,” for cable/satellite TV, refrigerator, safe, and the three historic fortified towns of Cospicua, private bathroom. Hotel amenities may include Senglea, and Vittoriosa. On a discovery walk a health club, spa, indoor and outdoor pool, and with your Trip Experience Leader, you’ll an on-site Maltese restaurant. You may choose explore Vittoriosa, which dates back to the time to join your Trip Experience Leader on an of the Phoenicians. This ancient city was where orientation walk around 5:30pm after you have the Knights of St. John made their headquarters checked in. before Valletta was built. Your tour concludes around noon. Dinner: On your own—there are many restaurant options just steps from your hotel. Lunch: On your own—your Trip Experience Ask your Trip Experience Leader to suggest Leader can recommend options that suit his or her favorites during your orientation your taste. walk. Perhaps you’ll seek out a hearty slice Afternoon: You’ll have approximately 2.5 of timpana, a Maltese style lasagna made hours of free time for independent discoveries with macaroni, tomato sauce, corned beef, after your tour. Perhaps you’ll climb to the and cheese. top of Fort St. Angelo for sweeping views of the bay—and of Valletta just on the other side. Around 3:15pm, you’ll board a motorcoach

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32 to return to your hotel, arriving after Day 17 Return to U.S. or begin your approximately 20 minutes. You’ll have a few post-trip extension hours of time to relax and enjoy your hotel’s • Included Meals: Breakfast amenities or pack for your journey home (or, if you’re taking our post-trip extension, to Rome) Breakfast: Buffet service in your hotel tomorrow. Join your fellow travelers at 7pm for begins at 8am. a Farewell Drink at the hotel bar. Morning: Board a bus with your luggage Dinner: Following your farewell toast, cap and take a 30-minute drive to the airport for off your adventure with a seated dinner at your return flight home. Or, make a 10am bus your hotel. You may reminisce about your transfer to the airport and fly to Rome to begin discoveries over the past few weeks as you your Rome: Ancient Sites & Hidden City Gems enjoy local and familiar options. post-trip extension.

Evening: On your own—you are free to return to your room to rest before your return flight home tomorrow, or join fellow travelers in the lobby for a nightcap.

END YOUR ADVENTURE WITH AN OPTIONAL POST-TRIP EXTENSION 4 nights in Rome: Ancient Sites & Hidden City Gems

Day 1 Valletta, Malta • Rome, Italy Day 4 Rome • Optional Vatican Museums & St. Peter’s Basilica tour Day 2 Explore Rome Day 5 Rome • Return to U.S. Day 3 Rome

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33 OPTIONAL TOURS

During your trip you will be able to book optional tours directly with your Trip Experience Leader. He or she will ask you to confirm the payment for these tours by filling out a payment form. Optional tours can only be purchased with a credit or debit card. We accept Visa, MasterCard, and Discover credit cards. We also accept Visa and MasterCard debit cards, but it must be a debit card that allows you to sign for purchases.

In order to correctly process these charges, there can be a delay of 2-3 months from the date of your return for the charges to be posted to your account. Therefore we ask that you use a card that will not expire in the 2-3 months following your return.

Please note: Optional tour prices are listed in U.S. dollar estimates determined at the time of publication and are subject to change. Optional tours may vary.

Matera Troglodyte City (Day 11 $145 per person)

Embark on a journey back in time to the Sassi di Matera, one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Upon arrival, you’ll learn about the stone carving skills used to build the town before venturing into one of the original Sassi districts. Your tour will take you past quarries, ravines, and sculpted gardens toward a network of cave churches, crypts, and fortifications. You may also witness the churches of San Pietro Barisano and Santa Maria de Idris, which overlooks scenic Sasso Caveoso valley. Enjoy lunch at a local restaurant before returning to Monopoli.

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34 PRE-TRIP Ljubljana & Trieste: World War II to the Present

INCLUDED IN YOUR PRICE

» Accommodations for 5 nights » Services of our local Trip Experience Leader » 7 meals: 5 breakfasts, 1 lunch, and 1 dinner » Gratuities for local guides and » 4 guided tours with personal headsets: motorcoach drivers Ljubljana • Postojna Caves • Trieste • Collio » All transfers Wine Country

PRE-TRIP EXTENSION ITINERARY

With cafe-lined streets in its Old Town and quaint bridges spanning its namesake river, Ljubljana, Slovenia, is reminiscent of the timeless cities of Old Europe. It boasts a modern touch as well—much of the city was rebuilt after an earthquake at the end of the 19th century. Then find inspiration where James Joyce once did in Trieste, Italy—where Italian, Slovenian, Croatian, and Austrian influences combine in a flourish of central European elegance.

Day 1 Depart U.S. slippers. The hotel amenities may include three restaurants, a fitness center, and lounge. You Depart the U.S. this evening for may rest or take a short orientation walk of the Ljubljana, Slovenia. area with your Trip Experience Leader.

Day 2 Ljubljana, Slovenia Dinner: On your own this evening. Ask your Trip Experience Leader for recommendations • Destination: Ljubljana close to you hotel. • Accommodations: Hotel Slon or similar Evening: On your own. Enjoy the amenities Morning/Afternoon: Arrive in Ljubljana, of your hotel or set out to explore Slovenia’s Slovenia between 11am-6pm. Please refer to capital city. your individual air itinerary for exact departure and arrival times. A representative will meet you at the airport and assist you with your Day 3 Explore Ljubljana 1-hour taxi transfer to your hotel. • Destination: Ljubljana • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner Upon arrival, you’ll be welcomed by your Trip • Accommodations: Hotel Slon or similar Experience Leader and you’ll check in and receive your room assignment. Depending on Breakfast: Served buffet style at your hotel where you stay, your room may feature satellite from 7am-9am. TV, a minibar, a safe, coffee- and -making facilities, and a private bath with robe and

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

35 Morning: Around 9am, meet your Trip Day 4 Explore Postojna Caves • Experience Leader in the lobby for a Welcome Trieste, Italy Briefing. During this conversation, we will • Destination: Trieste introduce ourselves and review our itinerary in more detail (including any changes that may • Included Meals: Breakfast need to occur). Our Trip Experience Leader will • Accommodations: Starhotels Savoia also discuss logistics, safety and emergency Excelsior Palace or similar procedures, and answer questions we may Breakfast: Served buffet style at your hotel have. Come prepared, this is your chance to from 7am-9am. get them answered firsthand, whether you have questions about a particular optional Morning: Today you’ll meet your Trip tour, how much free time you’ll have in any Experience Leader in the lobby around 9am and given location, specific activities or places you check out of your hotel. Then around 9:15am, are hoping to see, and beyond. This talk will set off for a 45-minute transfer by bus to the conclude around 9:30am. fascinating Postojna Caves, underground chambers with names like Upturned Ship, Around 9:45am, discover this university town Gothic Hall, and Brilliant. You’ll experience on today’s walking tour, led by your Trip these chambers during a walking tour led Experience Leader. As you walk, you’ll witness by your Trip Experience Leader from about the array of outdoor coffee shops and art 10:15am to noon. You’ll then have some time to museums that line the Ljubljanica River, which explore the caverns on your own. divides the city in two. In fact, your walk will take you to the pier around noon where you’ll Lunch: On your own. There is a cafeteria at the board a vessel and enjoy a scenic boat ride on caves with several local options. this curved body of water. Your boat ride will Afternoon: Around 1:15pm, you’ll board conclude around 1pm. a bus for a 45-minute transfer to Trieste, Lunch: On your own. Perhaps you’ll indulge in Italy, arriving at your hotel and checking in some Slovenian , a popular snack in around 2:30pm. Your room may include air this area. conditioning, a safe, coffee- and tea-making facilities, cable/satellite TV, and a private Afternoon: The afternoon is free for bathroom. Hotel amenities may include independent discoveries. Perhaps you’ll visit concierge services, as well as laundry and the National Museum of Slovenia, which is dry-cleaning services. an elaborate display of this country’s varied history. Meet your Trip Experience Leader in Long serving as a crossroads of cultures, Trieste your hotel lobby around 6:15pm for a 15-minute was once a hub of art and commerce. But if walk to a local restaurant. you look on a map of Italy, you may not find it immediately. As the last slip of land in Italy’s Dinner: Enjoy an included Welcome Dinner, north-easternmost corner, this city is tucked concluding around 7:30pm. away and often overlooked by tourists, but has served as a beloved locale for artists, writers, Evening: On your own. Perhaps you’ll venture and musicians for centuries. Around 4pm, out to see the city illuminated at night, or make you may choose to take an orientation walk the 15-minute walk back to your hotel to rest up of the area around your hotel with your Trip for tomorrow’s discoveries. Experience Leader.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

36 Dinner: On your own this evening. Trieste is you might even try your hand at windsurfing teeming with traditional pizzerias, so perhaps or snorkeling; or simply swim or relax by you’ll ask your Trip Experience Leader where to the water. find the best one. • Hours: Talk to your Trip Experience Leader Evening: The evening is free for you to make about reserving a half-day excursion. your own discoveries in Trieste. Perhaps you’ll • Cost: $110 per half-day. catch a show at the Teatro Lirico Giuseppe Verdi • Visit the Museo Revoltella, located in Opera House, one of the city’s proudest centers the former palace of the Baron Pasquale of entertainment. Revoltella. Having spent his life accumulating wealth, but facing his death with no family Freedom To Explore: During your time in to bequeath it to, he left his estate in the Trieste, you have the freedom to explore trust of the city of Trieste, where it has since this city on your own during your free time. blossomed into one of the region’s most Below are a few recommended options for popular repositories of modern art. In his independent explorations: day, Revoltella patronized contemporary • Revel in the flavors of Trieste during a artists—a tradition which the museum goulash cooking class. Learn how to make upholds now in accordance with his wishes, this traditional dish with a Trieste twist showcasing works from talented 19th- and during a hands-on lesson with a local in the 20th-century Italian painters, including city center. After the class, sit down with Casorati, Mario Sironi, Carlo Carrà, Giorgio your instructor and enjoy your gastronomical Morandi, Giorgio De Chirico, Giacomo creation in a three-course meal, complete Manzu’ Marino Marini, Lucio Fontana, and with a starter salad and dessert. Alberto Burri. • How to get there: Walking distance from • How to get there: A 5-minute walk from the hotel (location varies based on booking your hotel. time). • Hours: 9am-7pm daily (closed on • Hours: By appointment. Tuesdays). • Cost: Around $47 USD per person. • Cost: $5-$10. • See the city from a different point of view Day 5 Explore Trieste, Italy • Foiba during a sailing excursion in the Gulf of Massacres conversation Trieste. Your Trip Experience Leader can help you arrange a tour, which will take you into • Destination: Trieste the water for a gentle cruise. You might enjoy • Included Meals: Breakfast views of the ruins of Duino Castle, perched • Accommodations: Starhotels Savoia atop the cliffs of the White Lady—rumored Excelsior Palace or similar to be haunted by the ghost of a noblewoman Activity Note: Today’s activities involve a who was thrown to her death by an evil visit to the Risiera di San Sabba, a former castellan. If you’re feeling more adventurous, concentration camp. This visit may be emotional to some travelers. Speak to your Trip Experience Leader if you wish to opt out.

Breakfast: Served buffet style at your hotel from 7am-9am.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

37 Morning: Meet your Trip Experience Leader Day 6 Trieste • Optional Villages of in the lobby this morning around 9am. You’ll Istria tour take a 15-minute walk to your first stop today, • Destination: Trieste where you’ll take a sobering look into World War II-era history at Risiera di San Sabba. This • Included Meals: Breakfast is a factory-turned-concentration camp at • Accommodations: Starhotels Savoia which Nazis killed as many as 3,000 political Excelsior Palace or similar prisoners, and where tens of thousands of Jews Activity Note: Please be sure to bring your were processed for transfer to Auschwitz. passport with you today if you plan on taking the Optional Tour to Croatia. Around 10:45am, continue on to discover the city, a crossroad for cultures and perennial Breakfast: Served buffet-style at your hotel gathering spot for artists and thinkers (James from 7am-9am. Joyce lived here for 15 years), during an included walking tour lasting about an hour and Morning: Spend the day at your leisure in finishing around noon. Trieste. Or, join us on our optional Villages of Istria tour, departing from your hotel by Lunch: On your own. Perhaps you’ll stop at one bus around 8:30am for a 1-hour transfer to of the many spritz and cichetti cafés in the city. Motovun Village in Croatia. Around 9:45am, you’ll embark on a discovery walk with your Afternoon: You’re free to make your own Trip Experience Leader where you’ll hike up to discoveries in Trieste today. Maybe you’ll an antiquated village to explore the artisanal admire views of the city from the Grand Canal. workshops there. Many of the artists here make Later at your hotel, you’ll learn more about their living selling handicraft goods, which you Trieste’s painful past from a local expert during can converse with them about with the help of a conversation about the foiba massacres your Trip Experience Leader. around 6pm. Following World War II, killed thousands of Italians on the Lunch: If you choose to stay in Trieste, lunch is Istrian peninsula by throwing them into deep on your own today. sinkholes known as foiba. For decades, these crimes were largely ignored by Italy and If you take the Optional Tour, board a bus its neighbors in favor of maintaining good at 11:30am and depart to a family-owned relations in the region. This conversation will delicatessen and truffle farm in the center last about an hour. of town, arriving around 11:45am. Tour the family’s factory and learn about their Dinner: On your own. Ask your Trip Experience home-grown truffles, asking them any Leader for recommendations. Perhaps you’ll questions you may have about the truffle set out for a bowl of Jota, a hearty Istrian business. You’ll enjoy a lunch featuring made of beans, potatoes, and . products around 12:15pm, and depart by bus around 1:30pm. Evening: The balance of the evening is yours. Perhaps you’ll join your fellow travelers at the Afternoon: If you take the optional tour, you’ll hotel bar for a drink. arrive in the artist colony of Groznjan around 1:45pm. You’ll take a brief discovery walk with your Trip Experience Leader and learn about the history of this community, admiring the

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

38 works of Croatian artists as you pass. Your tour Morning: Depart Trieste this morning by bus will conclude around 2:15pm, when you’ll have around 9am to join the main trip. time to explore on your own. Around 3pm, En route, about an hour into our drive, turn you’ll board the bus for a 1-hour transfer back onto the Strada del Vino (Wine Road), and to Trieste. follow it into the Collio region of Italy. Known Dinner: On your own. If you haven’t yet, for its exceptional white , Collio also has perhaps you’ll ask your Trip Experience Leader another, less romantic claim to fame: Following where you can find a quality dish of Chifeletti, World War I and the dissolution of the Austrian a mixture of mashed potatoes, flour, butter, Empire, the region was divided between Italy and eggs. and Slovenia. Families were split overnight by the arbitrary boarder, and remained so until the Evening: Head out for last-minute discoveries end of the Cold War. in Trieste tonight, or rest up for your departure to Venice tomorrow. Around 9:45am, you’ll stop and meet the owners of a family-run vineyard, where you’ll Day 7 Trieste • Winery visit • Venice • take a cellar tour and enjoy a wine tasting. Join main trip Lunch: You’ll enjoy wine and conversation with • Destination: Venice the family over a light lunch of cheeses, cured • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch meats, fresh bread, and more around 11:45am.

Activity Note: Today we will transfer to Trieste Afternoon: This visit will wrap up around by bus for a total of 3.5 hours, stopping along 1:30pm, when you’ll board your bus and the way for a visit to a family-owned winery. continue another two hours to Venice. Arrive around 4:15pm to begin your Undiscovered Breakfast: Served buffet-style at your hotel Adriatic: Eastern Italy, Venice, Puglia & Malta from 7am-9am. Small Ship Adventure.

OPTIONAL TOUR

Villages of Istria (Day 6 $115 per person) Journey to the Croatian villages of Motovun and Groznjan, each known for their handcrafts. Explore the artisanal workshops of Motovun—a picturesque hilltop town—during a discovery walk. While here, you’ll also learn about the city’s truffle tradition—including how the prized mushroom is hunted and the best way to prepare it. Then, after an included lunch featuring the fame food, discover the charming artist colony of Groznjan.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

39 POST-TRIP Rome: Ancient Sites & Hidden City Gems

INCLUDED IN YOUR PRICE

» Accommodations for 4 nights » Services of our local Trip Experience Leader » 5 meals: Daily breakfasts and 1 dinner » Gratuities for local guides and » 2 guided tours with personal headsets: motorcoach drivers Baroque Rome • Trastevere & Roman Ghetto » All transfers

POST-TRIP EXTENSION ITINERARY

From the Sistine Chapel’s immortal frescoes to the countless masterpieces displayed in museums, there may be no other city that has as many legendary expressions of beauty as Rome. We think you’ll agree that, when you travel Italy, additional time to explore the “Eternal City” in depth is an opportunity not to be missed.

Day 1 Valletta, Malta • Rome, Italy Evening: You have the freedom to spend the rest of your evening as you wish. Perhaps you’ll • Destination: Rome relax and enjoy the amenities of your hotel. • Accommodations: Dei Mellini Hotel or similar Freedom To Explore: During your four full days Morning/Afternoon: You’ll touch down in in Rome, you have the freedom to experience Rome around 2pm today. Upon arrival, you’ll Italy’s capital city on your own during your free be met at the airport and assisted with a time. Below are a few recommended options for 30-minute bus transfer to your hotel, where independent explorations: you’ll arrive around 2:45pm. Depending • “It might make one in love with death, on where you stay, your room may feature to think that one should be buried in so air-conditioning, a safe, a telephone, a sweet a place.” Thus did the poet Percy refrigerator, a cable/satellite TV, and a private Bysshe Shelley praise Rome’s Non-Catholic bathroom. Hotel amenities may include a gym, Cemetery, shortly before his own burial cafeteria, concierge services, and laundry and in this historic graveyard. The cemetery, dry-cleaning services. Then, embark on an resting in the shadow of the ancient Pyramid orientation walk with your Trip Experience of Cestus, is the final resting place of many Leader around 4:30pm to get you acquainted famous artists, authors, philosophers, and with your new neighborhood. other luminaries, including Shelley, John Dinner: On your own this evening—ask your Keats, Antonio Gramsci, and the only adult Trip Experience Leader for local restaurant son of Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. See recommendations. for yourself what enamored Shelley with this place, as you wander among its eclectic tombs, tall cypress trees, colorful flowers,

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

40 and roaming cats. The graveyard has been a most famous works are hung, including the site of pilgrimage for artists over the centu- Martyrdom of Saint Peter in the basilica of ries—Oscar Wilde once cheekily proclaimed it Santa Maria del Popolo, and the Martyrdom of “the holiest place in Rome” after a visit with Saint Matthew in the church of San Luigi dei the pope in 1877. Francesi. You’ll also learn about Caravaggio’s • How to get there: About a 20-minute taxi turbulent personal life—prone to fits of rage, ride, approximately $25 USD one way. he murdered a rival in 1606, then died in exile • Hours: 9am-4pm, daily. a decade later, never to see Rome again. • Cost: A ticket is around $4 USD. • How to get there: About a 20-minute walk • Head out of the city to Castel Gandolfo, a or 10-minute taxi ride, approximately $10 quiet town in the countryside once USD one way. voted as the most beautiful towns in Italy. • Hours: 10am-1pm, daily. The commune was frequented by popes, • Cost: Around $23 USD per person. emperors, and other Italian nobility as a summertime retreat, its lush green hills and Day 2 Explore Rome sparkling lake offering a welcome reprieve • Destination: Rome from the hustle and bustle of Roman city • Included Meals: Breakfast life—qualities which visitors can still appre- • Accommodations: Dei Mellini Hotel ciate today. Its most eye-catching attraction or similar is the Papal Palace, overlooking the town Breakfast: Served buffet-style at your hotel from its hilltop perch—once a private papal from 7am-9am. apartment, the palace is now open to the public as a museum, for a look into the lives of Morning: Meet your Trip Experience Leader the popes who rested here. You can also stroll and local guide in the lobby of your hotel the historic town center, or relax by the black around 9am. Around 9:15am, discover the volcanic sand beach of Lake Albano. city of Rome, a museum en plein air, on a • How to get there: About a 25-minute taxi walking tour. First you’ll trace back one of ride, approximately $30 USD one way, 40 the oldest families tied to the Papacy through minutes by subway for $2 USD. its gardens, and see how Popes changed the • Cost: $25 USD per person. layout of the city in the fifteenth and sixteenth • Hours: Monday-Saturday, 9am-6pm centuries—from Piazza del Popolo to the (final entry at 4pm). Spanish Steps.

• Discover the legacy of one of Rome’s most Discover the glamour of the world’s best controversial artists on a tour of Caravaggio’s fashion designers as you stroll Via Condotti Art. Caravaggio, nicknamed the “Master of and Via Frattina, then walk to the the best Light,” is most famous for ushering in the era preserved Roman temple through the alleys of of Baroque art in Rome, putting a (at the time, the old city. Your walking tour will conclude unwelcome) realistic spin on religious art. His at 11:30am at the Piazza Navona where you works depicted the unrelenting brutality of will experience quintessential Baroque artists. martyrdom and conversion, and featured raw Once the stadium of Emperor Domitian, Piazza depictions of peasants, prostitutes, and other Navona was where Romans came to watch ordinary people on a canvas once reserved agones (games). for the saints. You’ll see where some of his

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

41 Today, it is common to see street performers across the grasslands while you relax under here, providing entertainment for the many the shade of the trees. This walk will conclude visitors from around the world. The piazza is around noon. one of Rome’s most popular Baroque squares, Lunch: On your own. Maybe you’ll try featuring architecture by Borromini and scaloppine, or a veal dish sauteed with fresh sculptures by Bernini, including the impressive baby . Fountain of the Four Rivers. Afternoon: Continue to explore Rome at your Lunch: On your own. Perhaps you’ll head to leisure. Perhaps you’ll visit Castel Gandolfo, a café to discover the origins of , or a small commune situated at a high elevation “lightly burnt” bread topped with , olive that overlooks Lake Albano. It is best known as oil, and tomatoes. the summer residence of the pope, and contains Afternoon: Free for your own many villages and cottages built during the 17th discoveries—ask your Trip Experience century. Meet your Trip Experience Leader in Leader for recommendations. You may wish the lobby of your hotel around 6:15pm and take to toss a coin in Fontana di Trevi (the Trevi a five-minute walk to a local restaurant. Fountain) to ensure you return to the “Eternal Dinner: At a local restaurant featuring City” someday. traditional . Walk back to your Dinner: On your own. Maybe you’ll ask your hotel around 7:30pm. Trip Experience Leader where you can find a Evening: Tonight you’re free to do as you Roman specialty like spaghetti alla . please. Perhaps you’ll enjoy a nightcap with Evening: You have the freedom to spend the your fellow travelers at the hotel bar. rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Trip Experience Leader for recommendations. Day 4 Rome • Optional Vatican Museums & St. Peter’s Basilica tour Day 3 Rome • Destination: Rome • Destination: Rome • Included Meals: Breakfast • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner • Accommodations: Dei Mellini Hotel • Accommodations: Dei Mellini Hotel or similar or similar Breakfast: Served buffet-style at your hotel Breakfast: Served buffet-style at your hotel from 7am-9am. from 7am-9am. Morning: Explore Rome on your own today. Morning: Explore Rome on your own today. Or, Perhaps you’ll visit Castel Gandolfo, a small join your Trip Experience Leader in the lobby commune surrounded by nature that’s known around 9am to see an off-the-beaten-path for being the summer residence of the pope. side of Rome when you make a 15-minute bus transfer to the Quadraro Street art district. Gaze Or, join us for an optional half-day tour of the upon colorful streets in an area rebuilt after Vatican & Sistine Chapel. Depart from your the bombings of World War II. Visit the Park of hotel by bus around 8am for a 1-hour transfer Aqueducts in Rome, and witness the ancient when you’ll go beyond the costumed Swiss Aqua Felix and Aqua Claudia Aqueducts weave Guards in the shadow of St. Peter’s Basilica to

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

42 explore the museums of the world’s smallest Lunch: On your own—ask your Trip Experience independent sovereign state, Vatican City. Leader for nearby restaurant recommendations. Established in 1506 by Pope Julius II, the Afternoon: Free to make your own discoveries. Vatican Museums contain one of the finest art Perhaps you’ll take a stroll through the collections in the world. Non-Catholic Cemetery and see the graves of Although it’s impossible to see all of the vast famous poets such as Shelley and Keates. collection, you’ll witness many of the priceless Dinner: On your own—maybe you’ll visit one of treasures acquired by the church over centuries. the city’s seemingly infinite pizzerias. Following the grand corridors of the museum, you’ll continue to the basilica and the Sistine Evening: You have the freedom to spend the Chapel, which contains the world’s most rest of your evening as you wish—ask your Trip famous frescoes on its ceiling and one of its Experience Leader for recommendations. walls. Inside, you can admire Michelangelo’s most famous and dramatic masterpieces, Day 5 Rome • Return to U.S. including The Creation and The Last Judgment, both of which have been recently restored to • Included Meals: Breakfast fully reveal their majestic glory. This experience Breakfast: Served buffet-style at your hotel will end around 1pm. from 7am-9am.

If you opted out of the tour, continue to explore Morning: After breakfast, you’ll make a Rome at your leisure. If you take the tour, 1-hour transfer by bus to the airport for your you will return to your hotel by bus, arriving flight home. around 1:15pm.

OPTIONAL TOUR

Vatican Museums & St. Peter’s Basilica walls. Inside, you can admire Michelangelo’s (Day 4 $110 per person) most celebrated and dramatic masterpieces, This half-day optional tour goes beyond the including The Creation and The Last Judgment, costumed Swiss Guards in the shadow of St. both of which have been recently restored to Peter’s Basilica to explore the huge museum fully reveal their majestic glory. of the world’s smallest independent sovereign state, Vatican City. Founded in 1506 by Pope Julius II, the Vatican Museum contains one of the finest art collections in the world. Although it’s impossible to see all of the vast collection, you’ll witness many of the priceless treasures commissioned by the church over centuries. Following the grand corridors of the museum, you’ll continue to the awe-inspiring Sistine Chapel, which contains some of the world’s most famous frescoes on its ceiling and

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

43 YOUR MEDITERRANEAN SMALL SHIP Small Ship Adventures aboard our privately owned, award-winning, 50-passenger small ships

During your travels in the Mediterranean—including the Aegean and Adriatic seas and French and Italian Rivieras—you’ll be cruising aboard one of our 50-passenger small ships, rated excellent by 96% of travelers. The M/V Athena, M/V Artemis, and M/V Arethusa were designed and built to carry just two groups of 20-25 (average of 22) travelers, each with its own local Trip Experience Leader. These ships are the perfect size to navigate the islands and shores of the Mediterranean—and then slip into the smaller ports and harbors for the night, well away from the larger cruise ships.

SHIPBOARD FEATURES • Restaurant with single, open seating: • Outdoor common areas: Relish coastal Savor regionally-inspired dishes or views from your seat on the Sun American favorites during all meals. Deck—perhaps with a cocktail from the • Comfortable lounge: Relax with old outdoor bar. friends and new, and participate in onboard • English-speaking crew: Enjoy dedicated discussions and lectures. attention from our international staff • Complimentary beverages: Enjoy house throughout your voyage. Plus, all shipboard beer and house wine—as well as soft announcements are made in English for drinks—at any time of day while onboard. your convenience. • Wireless Internet access: Connect online in cabins and common areas. Please note: Connectivity may be limited at certain points throughout your cruise.

44 MEDITERRANEAN SMALL SHIPS

CABIN CATEGORIES

Bar Cabin with private balcony – & A 150-170 sq. ft. Grill Cabin with private balcony – Wheelhouse B 150-170 sq. ft.

Cabin with portholes – Sun Deck C 160 sq. ft.

Cabin with portholes – D 160 sq. ft. 318 316 314 312 310 308 306 304 302 Single cabin with portholes – S 140 sq. ft.

319 317 315 311 309 307 305 303 301

Upper Deck Registry: Malta Length: 193 ft. Bar 206 204 202 Beam: 35 ft. Restaurant Lounge Reception Draft: 10 ft. 205 203 201 WC Cabin Size: 150-170 sq. ft., with 2 single cabins of 140 sq. ft. Main Deck Number of Cabins: 26

101 Passenger Capacity: 50

Crew Area Crew Area Built: 2007

102 International crew: 21 Passenger Decks: 3 Lower Deck Group Size: 25 travelers, maximum, with 1 Trip Experience Leader This ship complies with the latest international and U.S. Coast Guard safety regulations and is outfitted with the most current navigational and communications technology. It has retractable fin stabilizers to Stairs, no elevator help reduce discomfort during rough seas.

CABIN FEATURES

• 24 double-occupancy cabins from 150- 170 sq. ft.; 2 single-occupancy cabins at 140 sq. ft. • All outside-facing with either portholes or a balcony • Two single beds (convertible to one full); one single bed in single-occupancy cabins • Wireless Internet access, closet, bed-side tables with lamps, desk with mirror,

flat-screen TV, telephone, safe, mini- Cabin on the Upper Deck of the M/V Athena refrigerator, individually controlled air- conditioning, and dual electrical outlets • Private bath with shower, hair dryer, and toiletries

45 Undiscovered Adriatic: OUR SMALL SHIPS COVID-19 VACCINATION POLICY To ensure the safety of all of our travelers, we are requiring that all travelers Eastern Italy, Venice, joining us aboard our small ships must be fully vaccinated against COVID- 19 at least 14 days prior to departure of their adventure—and provide Puglia & Malta proof of their vaccination upon boarding the ship. For more details, please visit www.oattravel.com/covid-update. 2022 Dates & Prices To calculate your trip price with airfare, add deck price to air add-ons below.

JUNE; CABIN CATEGORY MARCH MAY 9 MAY 20, 31 OCTOBER JULY SEPTEMBER

A Upper Deck $6495 $8195 $8095 $7695 $7495 $8595 B(Cabins with private balcony) $6295 $7995 $7895 $7495 $7295 $8395

C Main Deck $5895 $7595 $7495 $7095 $6895 $7995 D(Cabins with portholes) $5695 $7195 $7095 $6795 $6595 $7595

MAY 9; MAY 20, 31; Air Add-Ons MARCH SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER JUNE-JULY New York, Newark $900 $1000 $1300 Baltimore, Chicago, Dallas, Denver, Los Angeles, $1000 $1100 $1400 Miami, Orlando, Tampa Boston, Houston, Philadelphia, Washington, DC $1100 $1200 $1500 Atlanta, Detroit, Minneapolis, Phoenix, Portland, $1200 $1300 $1600 San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle

Additional departure cities are available. Upgrade to Business Class may be available for the international portion of your flight. Call for details. VMA2022

Ship & Cruise Direction Venice to Malta Malta to Venice RISK-FREE BOOKING POLICY: RESERVE WITH CONFIDENCE— DepartureShipDepartureShip NOW THROUGH 12/31/21 3/19; 5/20; 6/11; 5/9, 5/31; 7/12; We will waive any change fees if you transfer to another M/V Artemis M/V Artemis 7/23 9/12; 10/24 departure date for any reason—up until 24 hours prior to departure. See details at www.oattravel.com/ 7/2 M/V Athena riskfree-booking.

Prices are per person. Airfare prices include government taxes, fees, and airline fuel surcharges. Standard Terms & Conditions apply, please visit our website: www.oattravel.com/tc. Every effort has been made to produce this information accurately. We reserve the right to correct errors.

For specific departure dates, current availability, and detailed pricing, visit www.oattravel.com/vma2022pricing

SAVE UP TO 10% WITH OUR LIMITED FREE OR LOW-COST SHARE YOUR LOVE OF TRAVEL GOOD BUY PLAN SINGLE SUPPLEMENT New travelers you refer will instantly The earlier you reserve your departure Once single rooms are sold out, save $100, and you’ll earn increasing and pay in full, the more you’ll save—up double rooms at a low cost of $895 are rewards—up to a FREE trip! to 10%—plus, you’ll lock in your price. available. When filled, call us about our For details, visit www.oattravel.com/va For details, visit www.oattravel.com/gbd Roommate Matching Program.

Publication Date: 6/14/21

Information & Reservations 1-800-955-1925 www.oattravel.com/vma2022

46 TRAVEL DOCUMENTS & ENTRY REQUIREMENTS

Your Passport • Must be in good condition

• Must be valid for at least 6 months after your scheduled return to the U.S.

• Must have the required number of blank pages (details below)

• The blank pages must be labeled “Visas” at the top. Pages labeled “Amendments and Endorsements” are not acceptable

Need to Renew Your Passport? Contact the National Passport Information Center (NPIC) at 1-877-487-2778, or visit their website at www.travel.state.gov for information on obtaining a new passport or renewing your existing passport. You may also contact our recommended visa service company, PVS International, at 1-800-556-9990 for help with your passport

Recommended Blank Pages Please confirm that your passport has enough blank pages for this adventure.

• Main trip only: You will need 2 blank passport pages.

• Optional extension to Trieste and Ljubljana: No additional pages needs.

• Optional extension to Rome: No additional pages needed.

You may want 1 additional blank page for a souvenir stamp in San Marino on the main trip.

No Visas Required Travelers with a U.S. passport do not need any visas for this adventure, including the optional trip extensions.

Traveling Without a U.S. Passport? If you are not a U.S. citizen, or if your passport is from any country other than the U.S., it is your responsibility to check with your local consulate, embassy, or a visa services company about visa requirements. We recommend the services of PVS International, a national visa service located in Washington D.C.; they can be reached at 1-800-556-9990 or www.pvsinternational.org.

Traveling With a Minor? Some governments may require certain documentation for minors to enter and depart the country or to obtain a visa (if applicable). For further detail on the required documentation, please contact your local embassy or consulate.

47 Emergency Photocopies of Key Documents We recommend you carry color photocopies of key documents including the photo page of your passport plus any applicable visas, air itinerary, credit cards (front and back), and an alternative form of ID. Add emergency phone numbers like your credit card company and the number for your travel protection plan. Store copies separate from the originals.

If you plan to email this information to yourself, please keep in mind that email is not always secure; consider using password protection or encryption. Also email is not always available worldwide. As an alternative, you could load these documents onto a flash drive instead, which can do double-duty as a place to backup photos during your trip.

Overseas Taxes & Fees This tour may have taxes and fees that cannot be included in your airline ticket price because you are required to pay them in person onsite. All taxes are subject to change without notice and can be paid in cash (either U.S. or local currency). If applicable, you will receive a list of these fees with your Final Documents.

48 RIGORS, VACCINES & GENERAL HEALTH

Is This Adventure Right for You? Please review the information below prior to departing on this adventure. We reserve the right for our Trip Experience Leaders to modify participation, or in some circumstances send travelers home, if their condition would adversely affect the health, safety, or enjoyment of themselves or of other travelers.

GROUP SIZE • This adventure has a group size of 20-25 travelers (average of 22) with a local Trip Experience Leader exclusive to O.A.T.

PACING • 17 days, with two 2-night hotel stays and 11 nights aboard the M/V Artemis

PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS • Walk 3-5 miles unassisted and participate in 6-8 hours of physical activities each day, including stairs

• Our activities may include up to two hours of walking on uneven surfaces

• Good agility, balance, and strength needed for boarding motorboats and possible rough seas

• Not accessible for travelers using wheelchairs or scooters

• Travelers using walkers, crutches, or other mobility aids will not be able to board the Arethusa

• The Arethusa does not have an elevator onboard

• We reserve the right for Trip Experience Leaders to restrict participation, or in some circumstances send travelers home, if their limitations impact the group’s experience

TERRAIN & TRANSPORTATION • Uneven walking surfaces, including unpaved paths, hills, stairs, and cobblestones, which can be slick in wet or colder conditions

• Travel by 50-passenger small ship, 30-seat coach, and local tender

CLIMATE • Daytime temperatures range from 58-98°F during cruising season; during the summer months (July-September), temperatures typically range from 77-90°F but can sometimes exceed 100°F for a week or longer

49 Steps to Take Before Your Trip Before you leave on this adventure, we recommend the following:

• Check with the CDC for their recommendations for the countries you’ll be visiting. You can contact them online at http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel or by phone at 1-800-232-4636.

• Have a medical checkup with your doctor at least 6 weeks before your trip.

• Pick up any necessary medications, both prescription and over-the-counter.

• Have a dental and/or eye checkup. (Recommended, but less urgent)

Vaccines Required

COVID-19 Overseas Adventure Travel requires that all travelers are fully vaccinated against COVID-19 and are able provide proof of their vaccination upon arrival at their destination. A full vaccination is defined as having been inoculated at least 14 days prior to departure by an approved vaccine. This requirement is not contingent on the countries the tour visits, but a strict company policy due to the nature of the pandemic.

Medications for This Trip When you visit your doctor, we suggest that you get a prescription for an antibiotic medication for gastrointestinal illness. Our staff do not carry prescription medications of any kind, and a written prescription is required to obtain an antibiotic in Europe.

Traveling with Medications • Pack medications in your carry-on bag to avoid loss and to have them handy.

• Keep medicines in their original, labeled containers for a quicker security screen at the airport and a better experience if you get stopped by customs while overseas.

• Bring copies of your prescriptions, written using the generic drug name rather than a brand name to be prepared for any unforeseen loss of your medications.

We recommend checking with the State Department for medication restrictions by country: https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/International-Travel- Country-Information-Pages.html. (Pick the country and then follow the links to “Local Laws & Special Circumstances”; if you don’t see any medications specifically mentioned, then you can presume major U.S. brands should be OK).

Staying Healthy on Your Trip Jet Lag Tips

• Start your trip well-rested.

50 • Begin a gradual transition to your new time zone before you leave or switch to your destination time zone when you get on the plane.

• Attempt to sleep and eat according to the new schedule.

• Avoid heavy eating and drinking caffeine or alcoholic beverages right before–and during– your flight.

• Drink plenty of water and/or fruit juice while flying

• Stretch your legs, neck, and back periodically while seated on the plane.

• After arrival, avoid the temptation to nap.

• Don’t push yourself to see a lot on your first day.

• Try to stay awake your first day until after dinner.

Allergies

If you have any serious allergies or dietary restrictions, we advise you to notify us at least 30 days prior to your departure. Please call our Traveler Support team at 1-800-221-0814, and we will communicate them to our regional office. Every effort will be made to accommodate you.

Water • Tap water aboard ship and in the countries you visit is perfectly safe for drinking.

• Bottled water is usually for sale in hotels, cafés, food shops, and restaurants.

51 MONEY MATTERS: LOCAL CURRENCY & TIPPING GUIDELINES

Top Three Tips • Carry a mix of different types of payments, such as local currency, an ATM card, and a credit card.

• Traveler’s checks are not recommended. They can be difficult to exchange and the commission fee for cashing them is quite high. It’s more practical to view them as a last resort in the event of a special situation.

• You will not be able to pay with U.S. dollars on this trip; you will need euros instead.

Local Currency For current exchange rates, please refer to an online converter tool like www.xe.com/ currencyconverter, your bank, or the financial section of your newspaper.

Euro Countries The euro is the official currency in many member countries of the European Union. Unless otherwise listed, the countries you will be visiting will use the euro. Euro banknote and coin denominations are as follows:

• Banknotes: 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, and 500 euros

• Coins: 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, and 50 cents; 1 and 2 euros

How to Exchange Money If you want to exchange money before your trip, you can usually do so through your bank or at an exchange office. Your departure airport in the U.S., a travel agent, or an AAA office are also possible outlets. Or you can wait and change money on the trip instead—but it might be helpful to arrive with some local currency in case you run into a bank or an “out of order” ATM.

On your trip, the easiest way is to withdraw funds from a local ATM. The ATM will give you local money and your bank at home will convert that into U.S. dollars.

You can also exchange cash at some hotels, large post offices, and money exchange offices. To exchange cash, you’ll usually need your passport and bills in good condition (not worn, torn, or dirty). New bills (post 2004) are best.

Please note that many banks in Europe will only exchange money for their own customers. Never exchange money on the street. All exchange methods involve fees, which may be built into the conversion rate; ask beforehand.

52 ATMs When using the ATM, keep in mind that it may only accept cards from local banks, and may not allow cash advances on credit cards; you might need to try more than one ATM or more than one card.

Many banks charge a fee of $1-$10 each time you use a foreign ATM. Others may charge you a percentage of the amount you withdraw. We recommend that you check with your bank before you depart.

Lastly, don’t forget to memorize the actual digits of your card’s PIN number (many keypads at foreign ATMs do not include letters on their keys—they only display numbers.)

Italy: ATMs are available throughout large cities and small towns in Italy.

Slovenia: ATMs are available throughout large cities and small towns in Slovenia.

Malta: ATMs are readily available in Malta.

Credit & Debit Cards Even if you don’t plan on using a credit card during your trip, we still suggest that you bring one or two as a backup, especially if you are planning a large purchase (artwork, jewelry). We also suggest that you bring more than one brand of card (i.e. Visa, MasterCard, American Express) if possible, because not every shop will take every card. For example, although the Discover card is accepted in some countries outside the U.S., it is not widely adopted, so other brands will work at a much larger range of stores, restaurants, etc.

Italy: Credit and debit cards are widely accepted in Italy. Occasionally a small “Mom and Pop” restaurant will be cash only, and street vendors or taxis usually are cash only, but most other businesses will take cards.

Slovenia: Credit and debit cards are widely accepted throughout Slovenia. You may still need cash for small purchases or at markets.

Malta: Credit and debit cards are widely accepted in Malta, though some smaller shops may still require cash.

Chip Cards Many countries have adopted a new type of credit card that has an embedded computer chip. These cards are inserted into the reader instead of swiped. The card owner then authorizes the purchase using a PIN instead of signing.

This new technology is only now gaining traction in the U.S., so occasionally there are machines in other countries that can’t read U.S. cards. Or the machine can read the card, but asks for a PIN. This doesn’t happen often, and is nothing to worry about. You can usually resolve the situation by asking the cashier to let you sign. (If you don’t speak the language, just mime signing on your hand.) If you are not able to sign for a purchase, such as at an automated ticket booth, you can use another form of payment, such as a debit card that has a PIN.

53 Notify Card Providers of Upcoming Travel Many credit card companies and banks have fraud alert departments that will freeze your card if they see suspicious charges—such as charges or withdrawals from another country. To avoid an accidental security block, it is a good idea to notify your credit card company and/or bank you will be using your cards abroad. You can do this by calling their customer service number a week or two before your departure. Some banks or credit card companies will also let you do this online.

You should also double-check what phone number you could call if you have a problem with a card while you are abroad. Don’t assume you can use the 1-800 number printed on the back of your card—most 1 800 numbers don’t work outside of the U.S.!

On Board Ship: Two Separate Bills Will be Issued • Shipboard account: This bill is for any on board purchases (drinks, souvenirs, etc.) and is calculated in Euros. This bill is payable at the front desk by cash or credit/debit card only. For cash, we accept only Euros. For credit/debit cards, we accept MasterCard and Visa. Other forms of payment, such as checks, Discover, and American Express are not accepted.

• Optional tour account: This bill is for any optional tours taken during the trip and is calculated in U.S. dollars. This bill is paid with your Trip Experience Leader (they will have you fill out a form) by credit/debit card only; other forms of payments such as cash and checks are not accepted. For more information on optional tours—including which cards we accept for payment—see the “Preparing for Your Trip” chapter.

Please note: Payments made by credit card may take up to three months to process. We ask that you use a credit card that will not expire until three months after your trip ends. Because our headquarters are in Boston, the charges may appear to be from Boston or might be labeled as “OPT Boston” (depending on your credit card company).

Exchange Services Due to international banking laws, we are not able to exchange money onboard the ship. If you need to obtain local currency, please see the “How to Exchange Money” section for helpful tips and information.

Tipping Guidelines Of course, whether you tip, and how much, is always at your own discretion. But for those of you who have asked for tipping suggestions, we offer these guidelines.

• O.A.T. Trip Experience Leader: It is customary to express a personal “thank you” to your Trip Experience Leader at the end of your trip. As a guideline, many travelers give $8-$12 USD (or equivalent in local currency) per person for each day their Trip Experience Leader is with them. Please note that these tips can only be in cash. If you are taking any of the optional extensions, your Trip Experience Leader during the extension(s) may not be the same as the one on your main trip.

54 • Shipboard Crew: We recommend a flat tip of $16-$18 U.S. per traveler, per day. You’ll give this tip once—at the end of your cruise—and it will be pooled among the entire crew. Policy Update: Due to international banking laws, we are no longer able to process crew tips on a credit card; crew tips can only be in the form of cash.

• Housekeeping Staff at Hotels: We recommend $1-$2 per traveler, per day. (This is for hotels only; on the ship Housekeeping are part of crew, so you don’t need to tip them separately.)

• Included in Your Trip Price: Gratuities are included for local guides and motorcoach drivers on your main trip, extensions, and all optional tours.

Time at Leisure

When you are exploring on your own, it’s useful to know when to tip and how much, because local customs often differ from the U.S. Here are a few helpful guidelines for the most common services a traveler might use:

• Taxis: In Italy, tipping is not customary, but many locals will round up the fare and let the driver keep the change. But a 10% tip for helping you with heavy luggage is appreciated

• Restaurants, cafes, and bars: In Italy you may see servizio incluso and coperto on the bill which refers to a cover charge for use of the table, not an included tip for the server. It is customary to leave a tip of 5% to 10% for the server, depending on the quality of service. A tip of 5% can be appropriate in a café or a family-run trattoria, while 10% is more suitable at a restaurant. In Malta, a tip of about 10% is customary.

• Public Restrooms: Most public restrooms in Europe have attendants that take care of cleaning and supplies. It is customary to leave a small tip for them in local currency—so hold on to those coins! Some restrooms are pay-toilets; you pay the staff at the entrance to the restroom or drop the appropriate coin into the slot on the stall door. Many restaurants, cafes, and shops offer only pay-toilets or reserve their restrooms for patrons only.

55 AIR, OPTIONAL TOURS & STAYING IN TOUCH

Land Only Travelers & Personalized Air Quick Definitions

• Land Only: You will be booking your own international flights. Airport transfers are not included.

• Air-Inclusive: You booked international air with us. Airport transfers are included as long as you didn’t customize your trip’s dates (see next bullet).

• Personalized Air: You booked international air with us, and have customized it in some way. If you have customized your trip’s dates to arrive early, stay longer, or stop on your own in a connecting city, airport transfers will NOT be included. You must also arrange your own accommodations for any additional nights. For your convenience, a preliminary list of your included hotels is available on your My Account at www.oattravel.com/myaccount under “My Reservations”.

Airport Transfers Can Be Purchased For eligible flights, airport transfers may be purchased separately as an optional add-on, subject to availability. To be eligible, your flight(s) must meet the following requirements:

• You must fly into or fly home from the same airport as O.A.T. travelers who purchased included airfare.

• Your flight(s) must arrive/depart on the same day that the group arrives or departs.

Airport transfers can be purchased up to 45 days prior to your departure; they are not available for purchase onsite. To learn more, or purchase airport transfers, please call our Traveler Support team at 1-800-221-0814.

If you don’t meet the requirements above, you’ll need to make your own transfer arrangements. We suggest the Rome to Rio website as a handy resource: www.rome2rio.com.

Air Inclusive Travelers If you have purchased international air with us, there are some points that may be helpful for you to know.

• U.S. Departure: If you are among a group of ten or more travelers who depart the U.S. from your international gateway city, it is our goal to have an O.A.T. representative assist you at the U.S. airport with the check-in of your flight. Unless there are extenuating circumstances beyond our control, the representative will be at the check-in counter three hours before your departure time. If you are flying domestically before your international flight, the representative will be stationed at the check-in counter for your departing international flight, not at the domestic arrival gate.

56 • Overseas Arrival: Once you arrive overseas, you’ll need to collect your luggage and clear customs. An O.A.T. representative will meet you outside of customs and assist you with your transfer to the hotel. On the base tour, please keep in mind that you will take a short shuttle ride and a motorboat to/from your hotel in Venice. Important note on porters: Airport porters are NOT allowed in the baggage claim area. On arrival, you must take your luggage off the baggage carousel and move it through customs. When you exit customs, you’ll handle your luggage until reaching your transfer vehicle. Your driver will load your luggage into the transfer vehicle.

• U.S. Return: If you are among a group of ten or more travelers who return to the same U.S. gateway city, an O.A.T. representative will meet you as you exit Customs and help you find taxis, buses, hotel accommodations, or connecting flights. Again, it is our goal to have our representative waiting to assist your group. In rare instances, unforeseen circumstances may prevent this service.

• Flying with a Travel Companion: If you’re traveling with a companion from a different household, and both of you are beginning and ending your trip at the same airport on the same dates, let us know you’d like to travel together and we’ll make every effort to arrange this (please note, however, that this is not always possible). If you request any changes to your flights, please be sure that both you and your companion tell us that you still want to fly together.

Optional Tours Optional tours are additional add-on tours that allow you to personalize your adventure by tailoring it to your tastes and needs. And if you decide not to join an optional tour? Then you’ll have free time to relax or explore on your own—it’s about options, not obligations.

What You Need to Know • All optional tours are subject to change and availability.

• Optional tours that are reserved with your Trip Experience Leader can be paid for using credit/debit cards only. We accept MasterCard, Visa, and Discover credit cards; we can also take MasterCard or Visa debit cards as long as the card allows you to sign for purchases. (You won’t be able to enter a PIN.)

• To ensure that you are charged in U.S. dollars, your payment will be processed by our U.S. headquarters in Boston. This process can take up to three months, so we ask that you only use a card that will still be valid three months after your trip is over. The charge may appear on your credit card statement as being from Boston, MA or may be labeled as “OPT Boston”.

• Your Trip Experience Leader will give you details on the optional tours while you’re on the trip. But if you’d like to look over descriptions of them earlier, you can do so at any time by referring to your Day-to-Day Itinerary (available online by signing into My Account at www.oattravel.com/myaccount).

57 Communicating with Home from Abroad

Cell Phones If you want to use your cell phone on the trip, check with your phone provider to see if your phone and service will work outside of the U.S. It may turn out to be cheaper to rent an international phone or buy a SIM card onsite. If you want to use a local SIM, just make certain your phone can accept one.

Calling Apps Another option is to use a smartphone app like Skype or FaceTime. These services are usually less expensive than making a traditional call, but you’ll need a Wi-Fi connection and the calls may count towards your phone plan’s data allowance. Many smartphones—and some tablets or laptops—come with one of these apps pre-installed or you can download them for free from the appropriate apps store.

Calling Cards and 1-800 Numbers When calling the U.S. from a foreign country, a prepaid calling card can be useful because it circumvents unexpected charges from the hotel. Calling cards purchased locally are typically the best (less expensive, more likely to work with the local phones, etc.).

One reminder: Do not call U.S. 1-800 numbers outside the continental United States. This can result in costly long distance fees, since 1-800 numbers do not work outside the country.

How to Call Overseas When calling overseas from the U.S., dial 011 for international exchange, then the country code (indicated by a plus sign: +), and then the number. Note that foreign phone numbers may not have the same number of digits as U.S. numbers; even within a country the number of digits can vary depending on the city and if the phone is a land line or cell phone.

Italy: +39 Malta: +356

Slovenia: +386

58 PACKING: WHAT TO BRING & LUGGAGE LIMITS

Luggage Limits

MAIN TRIP LIMITS

Pieces per person One checked bag and one carry-on bag per person.

Weight restrictions Varies by airline. The current standard is 50 lbs for checked bags and 15 lbs for carry-on bags.

Size Restrictions Varies by airline. Measured in linear inches (length+width+depth). Generally, 62 linear inches is the checked bag limit; carry-on limit is 45 linear inches.

Luggage Type A sturdy, fabric-sided suitcase with built-in wheels and lockable zippers is recommended.

TRIP EXTENSION(S) LIMITS

Same as the main trip.

REMARKS/SUGGESTIONS

One suitcase and one carry-on bag per person: Due to the space limitations on bus transfers, you’ll be restricted to one suitcase and one carry-on bag per person. This is to ensure that we have room for everyone’s luggage. We ask that you abide by this limit to avoid inconveniencing your fellow travelers and prevent additional airlines luggage fees (which are your responsibility). Most airlines now charge to check more than one suitcase per person for flights to Europe and other international flights.

Luggage rules: Luggage rules and limits are set by governmental and airline policy. Enforcement of the rules may include spot checks or may be inconsistent. However one thing is the same across the board: If you are found to have oversized or overweight luggage, you will be subject to additional fees, to be assessed by—and paid to—the airline in question.

Don’t Forget: • These luggage limits may change. If the airline(s) notify us of any changes, we will include an update in your Final Documents booklet.

59 • It’s a good idea to reconfirm baggage restrictions and fees directly with the airline a week or so prior to departure. For your convenience, we maintain a list of the toll-free numbers for the most common airlines on our website in the FAQ section.

• Baggage fees are not included in your trip price; they are payable directly to the airlines.

Your Luggage • Checked Luggage: Consider a duffel bag or soft-sided suitcase. Look for one with heavy nylon fabric, wrap-around handles, built-in wheels, and a heavy duty lockable zipper. Due to space limitations on our motorcoaches, you are allowed one piece of checked luggage per person. Porterage at airports and hotels is provided for one bag per person. All bags should have luggage tags.

• Carry-on Bag: You are allowed one carry-on bag per person. We suggest a tote or small backpack that can be used as both a carry-on bag for your flight and to carry your daily necessities—water bottle, camera, etc—during your daily activities.

• Locks: For flights that originate in the U.S., you can either use a TSA-approved lock or leave your luggage unlocked. Outside of the U.S. we strongly recommend locking your luggage as a theft-prevention measure.

Clothing Suggestions: Functional Tips • Travel light: A good rule of thumb is to gather together everything you want to bring; then take half of that. To have a varied travel wardrobe, yet keep your luggage light, we recommend you select a color scheme and pack color-coordinated clothing items that can be mixed to create different outfits.

• Consider clothing designed for travel, sports, or camping: With modern fabrics, lightweight packing for comfort and protection through a wide range of weather is easy.

• Bring rain gear: Regardless of your month of travel, rainfall is certainly a possibility. We suggest you bring a folding umbrella and waterproof shell. Water-resistant walking shoes are advantageous in case heavy downpours pass through.

• Good walking shoes are critical. This program features many included tours that follow steep, unpaved or cobbled routes; and even an average day of light sightseeing or shopping can put great demands on your feet. If you prefer more ankle support, take light hiking boots. In case you get caught in the rain, we suggest you bring an extra pair of walking shoes, and rain boots or galoshes. Aboard ship, you’ll want non-slip shoes with rubber soles.

Style Hints • Pack casual clothes: Comfortable, informal apparel is acceptable at each of your destinations. At dinner, you will not need to don “dressy” clothing; men do not need jackets or ties and women do not need fancy dresses. You may want one or two “smart casual” outfits for the Welcome Reception or Farewell Dinner, but it’s completely up to you.

60 • Proper attire in churches: To satisfy dress codes for Italian churches, men and women are requested to cover their arms and legs. No shorts above the knees or sleeveless garments please. Women wearing sleeveless blouses can cover their bare arms with a scarf. It’s no longer necessary for women to cover their heads. Pantsuits are now acceptable in churches.

Suggested Packing Lists We have included suggestions from Trip Experience Leaders and former travelers to help you pack. These lists are only jumping-off points—they offer recommendations based on experience, but not requirements. You may also want to consult the “Climate” chapter of this handbook.

And don’t forget a reusable water bottle—you’ll need it to take advantage of any refills we offer as we are working to eliminate single-use plastic bottles on all of our trips.

Recommended Clothing ‰Shirts: A mixture of short and long-sleeved shirts to layer ‰Trousers, jeans, or skirts ‰Comfortable walking shoes and/or water resistant shoes ‰Light rain jacket/windbreaker with hood ‰Sleepwear ‰Socks and undergarments ‰A jacket or sweater, depending on the time of year

Essential Items ‰Daily essentials: toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, hairbrush or comb, shaving items, deodorant, shampoo/conditioner, shower cap, body soap, etc.

‰Spare eyeglasses/contact lenses and your prescription ‰Sunglasses with a neck strap ‰Compact umbrella ‰Wide-brim sun hat or visor ‰Pocket-size tissues ‰Photocopies of passport, air ticket, credit cards

61 ‰Rubber or waterproof shoes

Medicines ‰Your own prescription medicines ‰Vitamins ‰Cold remedies: Sudafed/Dristan ‰Pain relievers: Ibuprofen/naproxen/aspirin ‰Laxatives: Senokot/Ex-Lax ‰Stomach upset: Pepto-Bismol/Mylanta ‰Anti-diarrheal: Imodium ‰Band-Aids, Moleskin foot pads ‰Antibiotics: Neosporin/Bacitracin

Optional Gear ‰Travel alarm ‰Hanging toiletry bag with pockets ‰Basic sewing kit ‰Hand-wash laundry soap (Woolite), clothespins/travel clothesline/stopper ‰Electrical transformer and plug adapter–see “Regional Electricity” section. ‰Reading materials ‰Travel journal/note pad ‰Addresses for postcards ‰Photos, small gift for Home-Hosted visit ‰Phrase book ‰Pocket-size calculator for exchange rates ‰Insect repellant

62 ‰Travel-size hair dryer: Many hotels will provide hair dryers, but not all. If a hair dryer is essential to you consider a travel-size version.

‰Wash cloths

Home-Hosted Visits It is customary, though not necessary, to return your hosts’ generosity with a small gift. If you do bring a gift, we recommend that you bring something the whole family can enjoy, or something that represents your region, state, or hometown. Get creative and keep it small—peach jelly from Georgia, maple sugar candy from New England, orange blossom soap from California; something that can be used or used up is best. When choosing a gift, be certain to consider the local culture as well. For example, we do not recommend alcohol in Muslim countries because it is forbidden in Islam, and your hosts may be religious. Not all Grand Circle vacations include a home-hosted visit; please check your final itinerary before you depart.

Electricity Abroad When traveling overseas, the voltage is usually different and the plugs might not be the same shape.

Voltage Electricity at hotels in Italy, Slovenia and Malta is 220-240 volts. In the U.S. it is 110 volts. Most of the things a traveler will want to plug in—battery chargers, MP3 players, tablets or computers— can run off both 110 and 220-240. But you should check the item or the owner’s guide first to confirm this before you plug it in. Plugging a 110V U.S. appliance into 220/240V 50/60Hz service will ruin the motor. If you have something that needs 110 volts—like a shaver or a hairdryer—you can bring a transformer to change the current. (But transformers tend to burn out, so it might be better to leave whatever it is at home.)

Aboard the ship, cabins are equipped with both 110-volt and 220-volt outlets.

Plugs Aboard ship, there are both standard American plugs and Western European Type C plugs.

In hotels, the shape of plugs will vary from country to country, and sometimes even within a country depending on when that building was built. To plug something from the U.S. into a local socket you’ll need an adapter that fits between the plug and the socket. Because you’ll be visiting multiple countries on this trip, it may be easier to purchase an all-in-one, universal adapter/ converter combo. Versatile and lightweight, these can usually be found at your local electronics goods or hardware stores. Sometimes you can buy them at large retailers too, like Target or Walmart. If you forget to bring an adapter, you might also find them for sale at the airport when you arrive at your destination.

63 Different plug shapes are named by letters of the alphabet. Standard U.S. plugs are Type A and Type B. Here is the list of plugs for the countries on this trip:

Italy: C, L, or F

Slovenia: C and/or F

Malta: G

Type C Type F Type L Type G

64 CLIMATE & AVERAGE TEMPERATURES

Malta: Situated midway between Sicily and North Africa, the Maltese islands have a distinctly Mediterranean climate, similar to that found in southern Italy or southern Greece. The warmth of summer lingers well into the fall, and the mild winter days have sufficient rain to produce grassy patches across the rocky landscape. Wild flowers, too, abound in autumn, winter, and spring— with more than 600 varieties carpeting the valleys, ravines, and ridges of the island with a blaze of color. Malta has a very sunny climate with an average of seven to eight hours of sunshine a day in midwinter and over twelve hours a day in summer.Erratic showers are common in the late fall and winter.

Malta can be windy. Most gusts come from the northwest (this wind is known as the majjistral in winter, when it blows strongest), but the northeasterly grigal and northerly tramuntana can stir up an occasional storm from late summer onwards. Better known is the sirocco or xlokk, the hot southeasterly wind that blows off the Sahara that sometimes roughens up the sea along the southern shores.

Venice, Italy: Venice is situated in the flat, low-lying plains of northern Italy, where the climate features year-round rain and sunshine, hot summers, and surprisingly cold temperatures during the three winter months. Fog, frost, and snow are frequent in midwinter. Thunderstorms can pass through in autumn and spring, though they are the exception and not the rule. While “off- season” travel may involve stints of inclement weather, it rewards you with the chance to explore Venice’s museums, piazzas, and canals at a time when they are wonderfully free of the summer tourist crowds.

Rome, Italy: The city of Rome has a climate similar to that of Tuscany, with temperatures averaging in the 40s and 50s during peak winter months, and the 60s and 70s in spring and autumn. Winter rains can be heavy, but periods of sunshine are also common. Summer can be very hot and humid with average temperatures ranging from 65-85 degrees, but potentially reaching into the 90s, especially during July-August.

Ljubljana, Slovenia: Ljubljana, capital of Slovenia, is situated between the Alps and the Adriatic Sea; both the warmth of the sea and the cool air of the mountains influence its climate. Although coastal regions of the country have a Mediterranean climate with hot summers and mild winters, Ljubljana’s weather reflects a continental climate. The city’s summer days from June to September are moderately warm and dry, with comfortably cool evenings, while autumn brings mornings of sunshine occasionally interspersed with some showers or haze. Winter months, beginning in January, can be quite cold with temperatures dropping below freezing, while the warmth of spring brings refreshing breezes. This continental climate is changeable, and a day with some passing showers is to be expected during any two-week interval.

65 Climate Averages & Online Forecast The following charts reflect the average climate as opposed to exact weather conditions. This means they serve only as general indicators of what can reasonably be expected. An extreme heat wave or cold snap could fall outside these ranges. As your departure approaches, we encourage you to go online to www.oattravel.com/myaccount for your 10-day forecast.

Average Daily High/Low Temperatures (°F), Humidity & Monthly Rainfall

MONTH VALLETTA, MALTA VENICE, ITALY

Temp. High-Low % Relative Average # of Days Temp. High-Low % Relative Average # of Days Humidity (am-pm) with Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) with Rainfall JAN 71 to 60 80 17 42 to 30 90 to 74 7 FEB 59 to 49 80 13 47 to 33 88 to 66 6 MAR 61 to 51 80 11 54 to 39 89 to 66 7 APR 65 to 54 75 10 61 to 46 87 to 63 8 MAY 72 to 59 75 6 70 to 54 85 to 61 8 JUN 80 to 66 70 3 77 to 61 85 to 61 9 JUL 86 to 71 65 1 82 to 64 86 to 58 6 AUG 86 to 72 70 3 81 to 63 87 to 57 7 SEP 82 to 69 75 8 75 to 58 89 to 64 5 OCT 75 to 64 80 11 65 to 49 89 to 68 6 NOV 67 to 57 80 15 53 to 40 88 to 71 8 DEC 61 to 52 80 19 44 to 32 89 to 74 6

66 MONTH ROME, ITALY TRIESTE, ITALY

Temp. High-Low % Relative Average # of Days Temp. High-Low % Relative Average # of Days Humidity (am-pm) with Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) with Rainfall JAN 55 to 39 86 to 67 9 45 to 38 70 to 66 7.8 FEB 57 to 40 86 to 66 8 48 to 39 67 to 60 7.2 MAR 60 to 42 87 to 68 8 54 to 44 68 to 60 7.8 APR 64 to 47 87 to 69 7 62 to 50 69 to 59 8.5 MAY 72 to 53 85 to 68 4 71 to 57 71 to 59 8.7 JUN 78 to 60 83 to 68 2 78 to 64 71 to 59 9.3 JUL 84 to 65 82 to 69 2 83 to 68 68 to 57 6.5 AUG 84 to 65 84 to 68 3 81 to 67 66 to 57 7.3 SEP 79 to 60 87 to 68 5 75 to 62 71 to 60 7.1 OCT 72 to 54 88 to 70 7 65 to 55 72 to 63 7.9 NOV 63 to 47 87 to 70 10 54 to 46 69 to 64 9.1 DEC 57 to 41 86 to 69 9 47 to 40 70 to 66 8.4

MONTH LJUBLJANA, SLOVENIA

Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) JAN 36 to 23 91 to 77 1.6 FEB 40 to 25 90 to 65 1.6 MAR 50 to 31 91 to 57 1.6 APR 57 to 37 88 to 52 2.0 MAY 67 to 45 86 to 52 2.0 JUN 73 to 52 87 to 55 2.0 JUL 77 to 55 87 to 53 2.0 AUG 77 to 55 90 to 53 2.0 SEP 69 to 49 95 to 60 2.4 OCT 58 to 41 95 to 68 2.8 NOV 44 to 31 93 to 78 2.8 DEC 37 to 26 92 to 84 2.0

67 ABOARD YOUR SHIP: CABIN FEATURES, DINING & SERVICES ON BOARD

M/V Athena, M/V Artemis & M/V Arethusa Owned, operated, and staffed by us, this ship was designed exclusively for our travelers. On the main deck, you’ll find our reception area and the ship’s library. For relaxation, the lounge/bar features inviting leather couches and soft chairs. Topside, a sun deck has classic wooden deck chairs for admiring the scenery. When it’s time for meals, our large dining area at the stern features a single seating policy. While cruising, we’ll enjoy daily breakfast and lunch buffets; sit-down dinners feature international and local specialties paired with regional wines.

Included features of your Small Ship The Ship:

• Restaurant with single open seating

• Open Sun Deck for prime viewing

• Shipboard activities

• Smoke-free environment

• All shipboard announcements made in English

• Ice machine in the lobby

All Cabins:

• All outside cabins

• Layout of 150-163 square feet (24 doubles) and 120-135 square feet (2 singles)

• Private bath with shower, hair dryer

• Color TV with movies, and a bow camera for ship-front views

• Ample closet and dresser space

• Direct-dial telephone

An important word: While our ship features larger-than-usual cabins, please keep in mind that this ship is a coastal vessel, not large ocean cruise ships. Coastal cabins, in comparison, are relatively small, and ship amenities, in general, are comfortable but not lavish.

68 Cabin Assignments You will receive confirmation of your deck and/or cabin category upfront in writing; it will be on your invoice and online in My Account at www.oattravel.com/myaccount. However, your cabin number may not be assigned until you arrive on board the ship. (This is normal procedure for ships in many parts of the world, including Europe.) If there’s no cabin number on your invoice or online, you can presume it will be assigned later and communicated to you when you board.

Dining You’ll enjoy fine cuisine and excellent views in your ship’s dining room, featuring a warm decor of dark woods, rich carpeting, and white-linen and china table settings. Your ship’s daily service includes breakfast and lunch buffets, and a more formal dinner. Our professional chefs will create unique menus for you that feature regional specialties. Included with both lunch and dinner are complimentary drinks; you’ll be able to choose from house wine, draft beer, or a selection of soft drinks. In addition, a selection of other fine wines and beer is available for purchase, starting at approximately $20-30 per wine bottle (prices vary according to vintage). Travelers may also bring a bottle of their own favorite wine to dinner to enjoy at their table. Should you care to avail yourself of this service, there will be a corkage fee of approximately $10 per bottle, charged to your cabin account.

Please note that if you bring your own alcohol aboard, it can only be consumed in the dining room as described above, or in your cabin. Consumption of alcohol purchased outside the ship is not permitted in the lounge or public areas. We also offer complimentary coffee and tea throughout the day, available in the lounge.

Open-table, single seating for all meals: Each meal is open seating—reservations of any kind are not accepted. Dinner has only one designated time for its open seating, announced each day aboard ship.

Dining times: Dining times for all meals may vary depending on the day’s sightseeing and sailing schedule, but in general, meal times are as follows:

• Early riser breakfast: 7:00 -7:30 am

• Breakfast: 7:30-8:30 am

• Lunch: 1:00-2:00 pm

• Dinner: 7:00 pm

Special diets & celebrations: Special diets, such as low-cholesterol or vegetarian, can be accommodated, as well as the recognition of an anniversary or birthday. Please call us to submit your request no later than 45 days prior to departure. Religious dietary regimens, such as kosher or halal meals, cannot be prepared aboard ship.

Dress code: The dining-room dress code is casual, though most travelers dress nicely for the Captain’s Welcome Reception and Farewell Dinner.

69 Non-smoking policy: The entire dining room is non-smoking at all times.

Embarkation/Disembarkation On the day of disembarkation, your cabin will no longer be available after breakfast. You may sit in the ship’s lounge or on the Sun Deck until disembarkation.

Headsets During your trip, complimentary headsets (often called “whisper receivers”) will be provided on all of your included and optional tours, so that you can hear better over ambient noise. If you use a hearing aid or have a strong preference for a particular type of headphones, we highly encourage you to bring your own headphones/ear buds with you. The plug size is usually the same as that used by iPods, computer jacks, etc. Headsets will also be available during the pre- and post-trip extensions, but not on the transfer day to/from the main trip.

Wireless Internet Access Limited complimentary Wireless Internet service is available on board the ship. If you want to use the Wireless Internet connection you’ll need to bring your own device (laptop/tablet/netbook) — ships do not rent or loan these devices. Shipboard access is subject to the challenges of travel: ship location, signal availability, and usage volume on board will affect connectivity and speed. The ship’s Internet connection demands a strong 3G-cell phone signal, which is unavailable in many of the areas we visit, and connectivity can be limited. You can expect disruptions of both long and short duration. You may be able to take advantage of available shoreside Internet cafes, or hotel access if available.

Laundry and Linen Service Laundry service is available for a fee. Please note that neither self-service laundry facilities nor dry cleaning services are available. Towels are changed daily, but only at your request. (We use the international signal that most green hotels have adopted—if you want a towel changed, leave it on the floor or in the shower. A towel on the rack or hung up indicates you’ll reuse it.) Bed linens are not changed daily. Fresh bed linens are supplied at the start of every cruise, and if the cruise is longer than two weeks they will be changed every 14 days. For cruises less than two weeks long, you’ll keep same the same bed linens for the duration.

Medical Care Our entire fleet adheres to stringent European safety standards. Ships feature fully staffed reception desks for most of the day (from 7:00 AM to 10 PM) and each cabin is equipped with an emergency call button available to alert the Captain.

On Board Activities During your cruise you’ll enjoy exclusive Discovery Series events, including group activities that relate to the region, theme dinners, organized discussions, and talks on upcoming ports of call.

70 Recreational Facilities These include a sun deck, lounge, library, bar and dance floor. The bar is open from 9:30 am to 11 pm, and features both complimentary drinks (soft drinks, house beer, house wine, and non- alcoholic cocktails/beer) and drinks for purchase (spirits, alcoholic cocktails, bottled beers, and a selection of wines). Prices are in Euros.

Bicycles We’re pleased to offer complimentary bicycle rentals onboard your ship for use during free time, including all of the necessary safety gear, such as a helmet, brightly-colored safety vest, and a lock. Because there is a limited supply of bicycles available, they will be offered on a first-come first-served basis. For more information or if you are interested in using one of the bicycles, please speak to the Front Desk staff or Hotel Manager onboard your ship.

Telephone Services To make telephone calls from the ship, you will be charged on your shipboard account on the last day of the cruise. Phone calls are directly from your cabin and through satellite, and are charged per minute without regard to whether or not it is a local, international or Calling Card based call. We advise you to use it only for an emergency, as this is a satellite connection and a very expensive service (for example, calls will cost about $10.00 per minute).

Smoking/Non-Smoking Policy All cabins are non-smoking. Smoking is permitted only outside on the sun deck. Smoking is not allowed anywhere else on the ship.

Shore Excursions Included during your cruise are many sightseeing tours. Other optional tours are available for purchase. We will provide information on these optional excursions on your arrival. Please note that optional tours can only be purchased with a credit card (and debit cards as noted under Optional Tour Payments previously)

Lost & Found Any lost or forgotten items found on board the ship will be held for 90 days from disembarkation. After 90 days, all unclaimed items will be discarded or donated.

Ship Specifications

M/V Artemis • History: Built in 2008

• Size: 193x35 ft

• Capacity: 50 passengers, 21 crew members

71 • Layout: 26 cabins, 3 decks; Elevator-no

M/V Athena • History: Built in 2007

• Size: 193x35 ft

• Capacity: 50 passengers, 21 crew members

• Layout: 26 cabins, 3 decks; Elevator-no

M/V Arethusa • History: Built in 2008

• Size: 193x35 ft

• Capacity: 50 passengers, 21 crew members

• Layout: 26 cabins, 3 decks; Elevator-no

72 ABOUT YOUR DESTINATIONS: CULTURE, ETIQUETTE & MORE

O.A.T. Trip Experience Leaders: A World of Difference During your adventure you’ll be accompanied by one of our local, expert Trip Experience Leaders. All are fluent in English and possess the skills, certification, and experience necessary to ensure an enriching adventure. As locals of the regions you’ll explore with them, our Trip Experience Leaders provide the kind of firsthand knowledge and insight that make local history, culture, and wildlife come alive. Coupled with their unbridled enthusiasm, caring personalities, and ability to bring diverse groups of travelers together, our Trip Experience Leaders ensure that your experience with O.A.T. is one you’ll remember for a lifetime.

The Cultures of Italy, Sicily, and Malta There is some truth to the stereotype of Italians being passionate, animated, and gregarious. After all, with major cultural achievements including the administrative genius of the Roman Empire, the birth of Catholicism, the imaginative leaps of the Renaissance, modern innovations in fashion and design, and much more, Italians have much to celebrate and be proud of. But even more pronounced than national pride is the spirit of campanilismo—an important aspect of this culturally diverse journey.

Campanilismo is often defined as “provincialism,” but it goes well beyond that. The word derives from the Italian for “belltower” (campanile), and refers to a sort of “our belltower is taller than yours” mentality that manifests itself in a deep sense of local pride. So as you travel, you will hear people identify themselves not as Italians, but in terms of their region, town, or even their specific quarter of town. Sono Toscano. (I’m Tuscan.) Sono Veneziano. (I’m Venetian.) Sicilianu Sugnu. (I’m Sicilian.) This makes sense when you consider that Italy has only been a unified nation for about 150 years and only a republic since 1946: most Italians have deep, local family roots that long predate either of those events.

One place on your itinerary that really stands out in terms of campanilismo is Sicily, where waves of successive invaders left indelible, and unique, marks on the culture. The Greeks and Arabs had an especially profound influence here—more so than in the rest of Italy—and it is alive and well in the Sicilian language (which is distinct from Italian), cuisine, architecture, agriculture, and civil society. On the surface, Sicilians are fatalistic, skeptical, conservative and pragmatic—but also deeply passionate, outgoing, loyal, and possessed of a wickedly dark sense of humor. That they embrace life so fully is the real wonder of their story.

The pace of life is slower in Sicily, a trend you will note as your cruise moves from the industrialized north to southern ports. In fact, the southern regions of , Molise, Campania, Puglia, Basilicata, Calabria, Sicily and Sardinia are collectively known as Il Mezzogiorno. The term means “midday” and refers to the intensity of the southern noontime sun. it’s not hard to see what the connotations may be: the hot noonday sun is a boon to agricultural communities, but also cause to retire indoors and rest. Thus, the hurtful prejudice

73 that southerners are lazy, insular, country bumpkins. Conversely, southerners may accuse their wealthier northern neighbors of being cold, uptight workaholics. These stereotypes have helped reinforce the significant economic divide between the richer north and disadvantaged south.

If indeed some southern shops and business may close on weekdays between 1pm and 4pm, more often than not it’s not to snooze but to socialize. Southern Italian culture in particular (and Italian culture in general) places a high value on interpersonal relationships, starting with the family, the bedrock of all social interactions. To reflect well on one’s family, one is expected to dress well, behave graciously, and be dutiful. It is part of the concept of la bella figura, the “beautiful figure” that all Italians strive to cut.

You can see this in action during the early evenings, when local Italians may gather at public squares and promenades for la passagiata, the traditional evening stroll. Even in rural areas, people will be fashionably (if casually) dressed, the mood will be upbeat, and good manners will be on display. As a cultural phenomenon, la bella figura may well be a metaphor for the allure of Italy itself: here is a culture you will find confident, elegant, charming, and engaging.

Malta is a land of fascinating contradictions. The people tend not to see their nation as European, but as a bridge between Europe, North Africa, and the Middle East. That makes sense given the archipelago’s geographic location at the crossroads of these entities. But even though Malta has historically been ruled and influenced by other cultures, the Maltese perceive themselves as culturally if not ethnically homogenous. They celebrate their home’s Megalithic roots, and speak a language whose foundation is North African. But their national identity is deeply aligned with the culture that arose after Christian conversion. Four hundred years of control by a Christian religious military order, the Knights of St. John, helped to reinforce that.

Malta is small and densely populated, so the people are used to living communally. They are gregarious, sociable, welcoming, and very expressive—often rendering strong opinions in a very voluble way, especially about politics and sports. There is a closely related, age-old concept here called pika, which is a (mostly) friendly rivalry that spurs friends, families, and entire towns to outdo one another. Sometimes that competitive spirit has turned vitriolic. But as a visitor, you may reap the benefits of pika in the form of over-the-top Baroque architecture, exuberant village festas, showstopping fireworks, and elaborate feasts.

Religion and Religious Observances Roman Catholicism is the predominant religion across mainland Italy, Sicily, and Malta. The cultures of all three places are saturated with Catholic beliefs, rituals, and iconography; and most people say that they are nominally Catholic, even though church attendance, in general, is on the decline.

On a day-to-day basis, the influence of religion is more pronounced in Sicily than the rest of Italy. Most Sicilians attend church regularly; devotion to Mary is particularly strong; and most people also pray to particular saints, asking them to intervene in their affairs. There is a Catholic religious observance, holiday or festival for nearly every day of the year, and every town has its own patron who is celebrated on their saint’s day. Sicily has a small but growing Muslim

74 population, comprised mainly of North African immigrants. Though Jews were present in Sicily for at least 1,400 years, they faced frequent persecution and were expelled in 1492. Since then, the Jewish population has remained small.

In Malta, 93.9% of the people identify themselves as Catholic, which the Constitution has established as the state religion (while also guaranteeing freedom of religion.) While fewer than 40% of Maltese attend mass on a weekly basis, people still turn to the church for major life events such as weddings, baptisms, and funerals; and nearly everyone participates the festive saints’ day celebrations that take place in every town. There are about 365 churches across the islands, one for every day of the year. With the influx of migrants from North Africa and the Middle East, there is a small but growing Muslim population.

Visiting Places of Worship Many churches run special services that you are welcome to attend—even if you are not Catholic. Otherwise, you are welcome to visit outside of services. Most churches in Italy and Malta have a dress code, whether overtly stated or not. Typically, they request that you cover your shoulders and that shorts or skirts reach the knee. It is rare nowadays for churches to require women to cover their heads. If you’ll be traveling during warm weather and want to go sleeveless or wear a tank top, then we suggest that you throw a light sweater or cover-up into your daypack. A pashmina-type shawl is ideal for covering shoulders or low-cut blouses, or even wrapping around the waist as a sarong.

Language There are actually 34 “living languages” or dialects spoken across Italy, and nearly all are derived from Latin. But the official language is Italian, which mainly evolved from Tuscan, and it is spoken and understood by nearly everyone. English is the most popular foreign language in Italy and nearly 14% of the population can speak it. The numbers are higher among young people, and in major cities. (English is increasingly spoken in Sicily, though not as widely as elsewhere in Italy.)

The language of Sicily, Sicilianu or Sìculu, is not a dialect of Italian, but a distinct language in and of itself that is recognized as such by UNESCO. Like Italian, it has Latin roots. But Sicilian is much older and has many elements of Greek, Punic, Phoenician, Arabic, French, Catalan, and Spanish. In 1900, Italian became the national tongue and is spoken by nearly all Sicilians. But even mainlanders sometimes have trouble understanding the local Sicilian pronunciations. For example, in Sicilian, Bs are mostly pronounced as Vs, so the word la barca (the boat) sounds like “a varca.” Double Ls found in words such as bello (beautiful) become Ds and sound like “beddu.” Sicilians also tend to put their verbs at the end of a sentence.

In Malta, though Maltese is the national language (spoken by 98% of the people), the second national language is English and 88% of the people can speak it. The Maltese language is Arabic at its base but very much influenced by Sicilian and Italian.

75 Taking Photographs The etiquette of photographing most people in Europe is about the same as it would be on the streets of your hometown. You need permission to take a close-up, but not for a crowd scene. Consent is especially important if you want to take a photo of a child or minor—ask their parent for permission first. To get a great portrait, show interest in your subject and try to have a bit of social interaction to put them at ease. Then use sign language to inquire if a picture is OK.

Safety & Security As you travel, exercise the same caution and awareness that you would in a large American city. Don’t be overly nervous or suspicious, but keep your eyes open. If you are venturing out after dark, go with one or two other people.

Carry a one-day supply of cash in your pocket. Carry most of your money, and your passport, in a travel pouch or money belt under your shirt. Replenish your pocket supply when you are in a safe and quiet place, or in our vehicle. Don’t leave valuables unattended in your hotel room. Most hotels will offer use of a hotel safe at the front desk or an electronic in-room safe (for which you can set your own personal number). Please utilize them.

Pickpockets may create a sudden distraction. In any sort of puzzling street situation, try to keep one hand on your wallet or money belt. If an encounter with a local turns out to be long and complicated and involves money or your valuables, be very careful. Con artists sometimes target travelers.

Hotel Courtesy Italian hotels do not allow food and beverages to be taken from their breakfast rooms, nor is it courteous to eat or drink food or beverages purchased elsewhere in hotel common rooms. In conformity with municipal laws to promote urban decorum, hotels do not allow hanging laundry on room balconies. Travel clotheslines, used in your bathroom, are a more private and effective solution.

Italian Cuisine Italy may have been unified as a nation in 1861, but its cuisine is another story—and a glorious one at that. Here, has always been a matter of regionalism and seasonality. So in Milan (in the rice-growing Lombardy region), your dinner is more likely to include a delicious (a creamy rice dish) than spaghetti, which would be a typical first course in sunny southern Campania. The country is divided up in to 20 distinct regions, each with its own specialties. The good news is that there is certainly culinary overlap, and since Italians are famously passionate about food, you can enjoy many beloved regional dishes all over Italy. The bad news? There is no bad news. . . . Nearly every meal in Italy is cause for joy.

Here’s more good news: not every meal in Italy is cause to loosen your belt. The Italian diet is heavy on vegetables (such as tomatoes, zucchini, spinach, and beans), and the olive oil that is an Italian staple is low in saturated fats. Though eggs, dairy, and meats are consumed regularly, the portions are much smaller than here in the States.

76 The structure of a typical Italian meal is designed to stimulate your appetite, and promote moderation—along with variety. So it will begin with an apertivo, a glass of sparkling prosecco or spumante, perhaps with olives or nuts to nibble on. Next come the antipasti, an array of hot and cold appetizers that are largely plant-based. This may be crudo (raw vegetables) with various cheeses and salumi (cold cuts such as prosciutto and salami). Try fritto misto, a lightly fried seafood mix, usually with calamari, shrimp, and fish such as sardines or anchovies. Polpette are savory, seasoned meatballs. They’re bite-sized and eaten on their own—not swimming in a giant bowl of red sauce and pasta. That’s an Italian-American invention.

The first course, called primo, comes next. Here is where you may enjoy your carbohydrates: perhaps a small dish of , a dense cornmeal , or a bowl of soup such as , or stracciatella, a spinach egg-drop soup. This course is also when you will enjoy the beloved pasta. There are more than 350 types and four times that many names for them, based on the region. For example, bigoli (a thick spaghetti) is popular in the Veneto; cheese- or meat filled tortellini rings are from Emilia-Romagna; fregola are tiny pasta cubes from Sardinia; and orecchiette (or, ‘little ears’) are from Puglia. The shape of the pasta is chosen based on the sauce it’s meant to hold.

The main course is called il secondo. This is usually a small, simply prepared dish of chicken, meat, or fish. Perhaps it will be saltimbocca alla Romana, a cutlet of chicken or veal topped with prosciutto, cheese and sage; tagliata di Manzo (herb-rubbed rib eye); grilled, garlicky shrimp scampi; or osso buco, braised veal shanks crusted with a citrus zest mixture called gremolata. This may be accompanied by a course of contorno, or vegetables. They are usually fresh, flavorful and simply prepared, designed to highlight (not dominate) the meal.

Your meal will conclude with a dolce (sweet) such as the famous tiramisu, a layered confection of , mascarpone cheese, coffee and liqueur. In Lombardy, it might be the crumbly almond cake called sbrisolona. In the Naples area, perhaps sfogliatelle, flaky layers of puff pastry filled with luscious cheese and citrus. Or Sicily’s gift to sweets lovers, tubes of crispy cannolli filled with creamy ricotta and perhaps pistachios, candied fruit or chocolate. Dolci may be served with coffee or an alcoholic digestivo such as herbal or . It is meant to aid your digestion of a memorable meal, one that will certainly have been toast-worthy.

Slovenian Cuisine Slovenia may only be the size of Massachusetts, but it still boasts 24 distinct gastronomic regions, and many dishes with EU protected status. One such is Idrijski zlikrofi, heavenly pasta pockets filled with potato, and herbs. Another is Bled Cake or Kremšnita, a confection of flaky crust, vanilla custard, icing sugar and whipped cream. Kraški pršut (prosciutto from the karst lands) and Istrian olive oil give their Italian cousins a run for the money. Štruklji is Slovenia’s version of strudel, filled with either savory or sweet ingredients like cheese, walnuts, apples and poppy seeds. In spring and summer, try it with fresh tarragon

77 Malta’s mixed cultural heritage (with the influences of the Levant, North Africa, Greece, Italy, Britain, , and France), plus a steady influx of visitors from around the world, means that you will never lack for dining options here. But when it comes to traditional Maltese fare, here are some classics.

Every Maltese family has its own recipe for the , stuffatt tal-fenek (rabbit stew), but most will include red wine, tomatoes, olive oil, garlic, onions, and bay leaves. Eating this favorite is almost always part of a communal feast called a fenkata, in which the rabbit is the star attraction, supported by an array of side dishes. These may include bagilla (a mashed bean dip), bebbux (snails), rabbit liver, rabbit , and various vegetables.

If hare is not your cup of tea, there is always torta tal-lampuka, a Mediterranean fish pie with tomatoes, cauliflower, onions, garlic and parsley. Try stuffat tal-qarnita (octopus stew), or timpana, a ziti-like casserole with pasta, meat sauce, eggs and a flaky crust. Bragioli is the Maltese version of Italian braciole, thin, rolled beef steaks filled with ground meat, bacon, bread crumbs, and herbs. If you are a vegetarian, try soppa tal-armla—widow’s soup—made with fresh vegetables and garnished with ġbejna, a sheep’s milk cheese. There’s also kapunata, a stew similar to with eggplant, zucchini, capers, and peppers.

The street food you cannot miss is pastizzi, a diamond-shaped pastry filled with ricotta cheese and perhaps a choice of peas, spinach, tuna, rabbit, or (around ) spinach and anchovy. Another lunchtime favorite is hobz biz zejt, a crusty piece of Maltese bread is rubbed tomatoes and layered with cheese, tuna, onion and olive oil.

Your sweet tooth will not be neglected here. Try imqaret, a rectangular-shaped sweet made with pastry and date filing. After Lent, figolli are -filled cakes decorated with icing, chocolate, or a small candy Easter eggs. And the humble pudina tal hobz, uses yesterday’s bread to make a delicious pudding flavored with cocoa currants, orange rind, and .

Venice in Brief

City Layout and Details Venice is about two and a half miles from the Italian mainland and one and one quarter miles from the Adriatic Sea. The city is built on and around 118 islands and islets, separated by approximately 150 small canals. These small land clusters are joined together by some 400 bridges. The three largest and most historically significant bridges are the Rialto, Accademia, and degli Scalzi, each of which crosses the Grand Canal. The city has only one main piazza—San Marco—and it bustles all day long. Most visitors are primarily interested in seeing San Marco, with its St. Mark’s Basilica and Doge’s Palace, but there’s much to see elsewhere if you are game for walking. Shoppers will want to explore along the Mercerier, which leads out of the piazza San Marco and serves as the city’s major shopping artery. It eventually leads to the Rialto, site of the market area.

78 The city is divided into six quarters, called sestieri, and these include San Marco, Santa Croce, San Polo, Castello, Cannaregio, and Dorsoduro. Each has its own mood and appeal. The Dorsoduro, for example, has been compared to New York’s Greenwich Village. Don’t expect to find any order to the tiny streets and winding canals that comprise each sestieri. Street numbers do not follow a logical sequence, and finding a specific address can be baffling. Looking for certain cross streets and posted signs can be more helpful than trying to pinpoint an address by its street number. Regardless of your orientation skills, however, expect to get at least a little lost at some point while exploring on your own. Everybody does—that’s part of the charm of Venice.

Across the lagoon from Venice proper is the shoestring island of Lido. This long, narrow sandbar protects Venice from the force of the Adriatic Sea; it is also one of Italy’s most fashionable beach resort areas. Venice is connected to mainland Italy via a three-mile bridge that runs from the city across the Venetian Lagoon to the town of Mestre.

Evening Entertainment Compared to Rome, Venice is a quiet city that shuts down pretty much by midnight. Typical nighttime entertainment includes classical concerts (often featured in various churches), opera performances, art exhibitions, leisurely visits at cafés and bars, and sunset strolls. The tourist office and some hotels distribute the free weekly pamphlet Un Ospite a Venezia (“A Guest in Venice”). It is a useful multilingual booklet that lists up-to-date museum schedules, special events, entertainment programs, and other activities, as well as the current rates for gondolas and motorboat taxis.

Local Transportation There are no cars in Venice, except on the Lido. To get around, you can walk, or take a vaparetto or gondola. Remember, Venice has 460 pedestrian bridges.

Vaporetti: These motorboats operate as public waterbuses. An accelerato boat makes every stop; a diretto makes only express stops. They operate from designated piers and run about every 15 minutes. Service is frequent from about 7 am to midnight, then hourly between midnight and 7 am.

Gondola: If you opt for a gondola ride, first agree on the price and the length of the trip. Two major stations at which you can hire gondolas include piazza San Marco and Ponte Rialto. TIP: In 2019, the official price for a 30 minute gondola ride was set as 80 euros, but may cost more during the evening or if music is included.

On foot: By far, the easiest way to explore Venice is on foot. All the locals walk, too. Because the city has 400 bridges with stairs, bicycles are impractical.

Motorboat Taxis: A ride as short as 10 minutes can cost upwards of $60. Given the small distances of Venice, use of water taxis is a very expensive proposition that can be easily avoided with a little forethought or scheduling.

79 Malta in Brief

City Layout and Details Situated between St Julian’s and Valletta, Sliema is part of Malta’s main coastal resort area. It’s a residential area, having developed from beginnings as a small fishing port into a summer resort for wealthy residents of Valletta. You’ll find their villas and town houses on the quiet inner streets, creating a quiet charm. More recently, it has become a major commercial and residential area with several of Malta’s burgeoning hotel developments.

Sliema (with St. Julian’s) is a center for the island’s shopping, dining, and café life. Tower Road, the seaside promenade that runs north to St. Julian’s offers shops, restaurants, Internet cafes, and day cruise boats – as well as plenty of seats and lovely views over the open sea. The coastline is studded with two towers: a 17th century watch tower and a British built neo-gothic tower from the 1880s.

Both St. Julian’s (you can walk there via the promenade) and Valletta (by bus) are easily explored from Sliema.

Entertainment & Recreational Activities Golf: There is a par-68 course at the Royal Malta Golf Club, spread across 5,567 yards of ground.

Tennis, squash, mini-golf, billiards, and swimming in a freshwater pool are offered at the extensive Marsa Sports Club complex. Visitors may obtain weekly or daily memberships.

Tenpin bowling: Available at the computerized Eden Super Bowl in St George’s Bay.

Trotting: Trotting is Malta’s most popular spectator sport and regularly attracts crowds of up to 4,000. Often the races are held on Sunday afternoons at Marsa Race Track. The circuit has been there since 1869. Immediately outside the arena, some of the 700 trotters registered with the Malta Racing Club are stabled. Races are usually held from October through March.

Local Transportation Taxis: Traveling by taxi is not cheap, and fares increase sharply after midnight. Taxis are white (usually Mercedes) with distinctive red number plates. The taxis have no meters but operate on fixed prices; therefore, we suggest you agree on the fare in advance. Taxis are readily available in the main resort areas, but note that they do not cruise the streets in the hope of picking up a fare. They are available at taxi stands and on request at hotels.

Buses: Malta’s new bus lines have standardized, modernized travel on the island – while making the charming old yellow buses a thing of the past. The buses operate more frequently, with more routes and stops than before and is inexpensive. A 24 hour pass costs about $3.25 and a full week pass about $15. Buses run along the seafront on either side of Sliema. Routes radiate from the Sliema and Valletta bus terminals to nearly every town, village, and sandy beach on the island.

80 Karrozzin: The Maltese horse-drawn victoria—the Karrozzin—was introduced in 1856 and is still in use in the larger towns. It is advisable to negotiate the cost before the ride starts. Horse cabs can be found in Sliema on the Promenade.

Rome in Brief

City Layout and Details Via del Corso is Rome’s principal street. It runs north to south with easy-to-remember landmarks at its end points. At the north is piazza del Popolo, with a central obelisk and trio of churches. East of piazza del Popolo (and north of piazza di ) is Villa Borghese, the city’s principal park.

Off of Via del Corso, about two-thirds of the way between piazza del Popolo and piazza Venezia, is Via Condotti, which runs east to piazza di Spagna—the Spanish Steps area. This is the city’s chic shopping area. The southern extremity of Via del Corso is piazza Venezia. You cannot miss it because it is dominated by the massive Vittorio Emanuele Monument, referred to by locals as “the wedding cake” or “the typewriter.” Southeast of piazza Venezia are the Roman Forum and the Palatine Hill (the centermost of the seven hills of ) and, more distant, the Colosseum.

To the west of piazza Venezia and stretching toward the river lies Old Rome, an area of narrow winding streets, aging buildings and, generally, excellent restaurants and charming cafés. Corso Vittorio Emanuele is the main boulevard in this neighborhood. Across the Tiber (Tevere) River is Vatican City and farther south is the mellow Trastevere district—for many people the most interesting and colorful corner of the city.

Evening Entertainment As mentioned before, the International Herald Tribune is now printed in Rome and is available at most newsstands; it often lists major events in Rome, as well as the rest of Italy, in its Saturday “Weekend” section. Issues are usually one day behind the Tribune’s original publication date.

In addition, the monthly Carnet di Roma, available at EPT tourist offices, is free and has an exhaustive listing of scheduled events and shows. The bi-weekly pamphlet Un Ospite a Roma, free from your hotel concierge if available, is another source of information, as is Wanted in Rome, available at newsstands.

If you want to go to the opera, ballet, or to a concert, it’s best to go online in advance or ask your hotel concierge to get tickets for you. (The concierge is best if tickets are on sale at box offices only.) Here’s a brief preview of entertainment possibilities:

Opera: The Teatro dell’Opera is on Via del Viminale.

Film: There are two English-language movie theaters in Rome. One is the Pasquino (Vicolo del Piede, just off Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere). The other is the Quirinetta (Via M. Minghetti, 4—Centro storico). The daily film program at each theater is listed in Rome’s daily newspapers.

81 Concerts: The new Concert Hall complex opened in 2002. It is called simply New Auditorium— Nuovo Auditorium (Viale Pietro de Coubertin).

Night Clubs: The best source for an up-to-date list is the weekly entertainment guide “Trova Roma,” published in the Italian daily La Repubblica.

Local Transportation Perhaps the best way to sightsee on your own is to pick a part of the city or a specific sight that you especially want to see, go to it on the bus or Metro, then explore the area on foot. Remember: Many Roman pathways are cobblestone. Before setting out, be sure to don good walking shoes, preferably with thick rubber soles that will cushion your feet. Transportation route maps are sold at newsstands and ATAC information and ticket booths.

Metro: Rome’s subway is called the Metropolitana, or Metro for short, and provides the fastest and easiest means of transportation in the city. The Metro begins operating at 5:30 am, and the last train leaves each terminal at 11:30 pm. (Fridays and Saturdays it closes at 1:30 am). A big letter M indicates the entrance to the subway. Tickets, which are good on buses as well, are available from vending machines at all stations. But you can avoid standing in line at stations if you buy single tickets or books of five or ten ahead of time at newsstands and tobacco shops.

The Metro has two underground lines: —distinctive color RED—goes from the Station to the Station. Important stops on this line are the Cipro Station near St. Peter’s and the Vatican Museums, the Spagna Station (the Spanish Steps), the Station, and the San Giovanni Station (the Basilica of St. John the Lateran). Line B—distinctive color BLUE— connects to , stopping at piazza , Stazione Termini, via , the Colosseum, Circus Maximus, the Pyramid of C. Cestius, St. Paul’s Outside the Walls, and E.U.R. The A Line intersects with the B Line at the Termini Station, which is also Rome’s central train station.

Bus: Silver/orange, silver/green ATAC city buses (and several streetcar lines) run from about 6 am to midnight, with intermittent notturno services on main lines throughout the night. Tickets are sold singly or in books of five or ten at tobacco shops and newsstands. When boarding a bus, remember to enter at the rear and exit at the middle.

Make sure you stamp your bus ticket: When you step onto the bus, you must stamp your ticket in the ticket machine. Any passenger whose ticket is not stamped faces a hefty fine!

Taxis: As in most cities, this is the most expensive way to get around. You can hire a taxi at a taxi stand or arrange for one over the telephone. The concierge can reserve a taxi for you, however you should be aware that the taxi’s meter will begin running the minute the driver accepts the call. Use only the official white cabs, and be very sure to check the meter. There are supplements for service after 10 pm, and on Sundays and holidays.

82 Shopping: What to Buy, Customs, Shipping & More There may be scheduled visits to local shops during your adventure. There is no requirement to make a purchase during these stops, and any purchase made is a direct transaction with the shop in question, subject to the vendor’s terms of purchase. O.A.T. is not responsible for purchases you make on your trip or for the shipment of your purchases.

Returns If you discover an issue with an item, you should contact the vendor directly and expect that any resolution will take longer than it would in the U.S. We recommend that you keep a copy of all your receipts, invoices, or contracts, along with the shop’s contact information. Keep in mind, local practice may vary from U.S. standards, so don’t assume that you have a certain number of days after the purchase to speak up or that you are guaranteed a refund.

Crafts & Souvenirs

Italy Whether it refers to high fashion or Maserati automobiles, “Made in Italy” has become synonymous with style and quality craftsmanship. Among the most popular buys are leather goods, silk ties, knitwear, gold jewelry, ceramics, straw goods and other handicrafts, small cabinets, and jewelry boxes. Each region in Italy has its specialties. Although you may not visit all of these regions on this trip, we understand that a lot of our travelers may also be traveling independently so we’ve included information for all of the regions that our itineraries visit in Italy:

• Rome: Designer fashions, silks, artwork, religious items, leather goods of all kinds, quality sunglasses.

• Sorrento: Coral, cameos, embroidered blouses, tarsia (intricate inlaid wood marquetry), and Capodimonte ceramics.

• Venice: glassware, lace, velvet and damask, Carnival masks, silver products, and silks.

• Tuscany and Umbria: Both regions are known for their high-quality handicrafts such as alabaster, handmade paper, terracotta, and pottery. Leather goods of all kinds—purses, shoes, gloves, belts, etc.—are a popular buy, especially in cities like Florence and Lucca. (For the best quality, and for leather that is truly made in Italy, buy in a shop and not from street vendors.) in jars make a nice “taste of Italy” souvenir; so too can bottles of local wine, such as Brunello or one of the Super Tuscan vintages, or a bottle of olive oil.

• Bologna & Parma: Both cities are known for their contributions to cuisine, so foodstuffs are popular souvenirs. You can bring back processed foods such as balsamic vinegar, fruit jams or fruit mustard (la mostarda di frutta), and hard cheeses like parmesan. Cheeses should be vacuum sealed if you plan to bring them back to the U.S.

83 • Sicily: Popular items in Sicily include antiques, ceramics, jewelry, lace, almond pastries (such as marzipan), or local olive oil.

• Sardinia: Sardinia is known for its unique jewelry, specifically wedding rings. However, you’ll find an assortment of options in many shapes and materials.

You’ll also see many different items made from olive wood or Carrara marble; just remember that any marble items you purchase should be put into your checked luggage for the flight home. (If you put them in your carry-on, they may be confiscated by security as “weapons”.)

Value Added Tax: In Italy, a Value Added Tax is levied on most articles, services, and meals, and ranges from 17% to 33%. Depending on how much you spend on certain goods in specially marked Tax Free Shopping stores, you may be eligible for a partial refund of this tax. Ask the shopkeeper, salesperson, or our local staff for details. Be sure to save all receipts and the special Global Tax Refund forms for Customs, as receipts alone are not enough.

Slovenia Handicraft shops in Slovenia feature locally made ceramics, woolens, wood carvings, embroidery, tapestries, filigree jewelry, pumpkin seed oil, hand-painted beehive panels, honey brandy and handmade carpets. The fashion brands Sens and Akultura are popular, and for something more traditional, consider lace and Rogaska crystal.

Malta Maltese shops range from small, family-run businesses and quaint boutiques to large shopping complexes and chain stores. In nearby Valletta, Republic Street is a major shopping thoroughfare, and Valletta’s Sunday market, held below St James Bastion, is one of Malta’s top attractions. Among the best Maltese buys are:

• Glassware: Mdina decorative glass has earned a reputation for good workmanship and attractive colors.

• Jewelry: Finely worked filigree using both gold and silver is to be seen in shops all over the island.

• Lace: Malta is renowned for its delicate lace. It has been the traditional craft for generations of the women of Gozo, who work in their own homes.

U.S. Customs Regulations & Shipping Charges For all things related to U.S. Customs, the ultimate authority is the U.S. Bureau of Customs & Border Protection. Their website, www.cbp.gov has the answers to the most frequently asked questions. Or you can call them at 1-877-227-5511.

The top three points to know are:

• At time of writing, your personal duty-free allowance is $800 for items brought with you. Items totaling more than $800 are subject to duty fees.

84 • Items shipped home are always subject to duty when received in the U.S. Even when the shop has offered to include shipping and duties in the price, this typically means shipping to the nearest customs facility and payment of the export duties—not door-to-door shipping or payment of the import duties. All additional duties or shipping charges would be your responsibility. Unless an item is small enough to send by parcel service (like FedEx), chances are you will need to arrange shipping or pick-up once the item is in the U.S. and will need to pay customs duties.

• It is illegal to import products made from endangered animal species. U.S. Customs & Border Protection will seize these items, as well as most furs, coral, tortoise shell, reptile skins, feathers, plants, and items made from animal skins.

85 DEMOGRAPHICS & HISTORY

Italy

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 116,348 square miles

• Capital: Rome

• Languages: Italian is the official language; German, French, and Slovene are also spoken in towns near the borders of Austria, France, and Slovenia.

• Ethnicity: Italian, with small clusters of German-, French-, and Slovene-Italians in the north and Albanian- and Greek-Italians in the south

• Location: Italy is bordered by France, Slovenia, Austria, Switzerland, the Ligurian Sea, the Tyrrhenian Sea, the Ionian Sea, the Adriatic Sea, and the .

• Geography: Italy lies in southern Europe and includes the Mediterranean islands of Siciliy, Sardinia, and several other small islands. The region of Tuscany is a blend of rugged hills, fertile valleys, and long stretches of sandy beaches that curve along the west coast of central Italy and fringe the pine-forested coastal plain of the Maremma. Sicily enjoys mountains in the north and east, a vast central plateau, and a fertile coastline dotted with sea-level resort towns.

• Population: 60,317,116 (estimate)

• Religions: Christian 80% (overwhelming Roman Catholic), Atheists and Agnostics 20%, Muslims estimated at less than 2%

• Time Zone: Italy is on Central European Time, six hours ahead of U.S. EST. When it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is noon in Rome. Daylight Saving Time begins the last weekend in March and ends the last weekend in October.

86 National Holidays: Italy

In addition to the holidays listed below, Italy 05/01 Labor Day celebrates a number of national holidays that 06/02 Republic Day follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter. To find out if you will be traveling during these 08/15 Assumption of Mary holidays, please visit www.timeanddate.com/ holidays. 11/01 All Saints’ Day

01/01 New Year’s Day 12/08 Feast of the Immaculate Conception

01/06 Epiphany 12/25 Day

04/25 Liberation Day 12/26 St. Stephen’s Day

Italy: A Brief History Italy proudly wears the mantle of Rome, the polity from which so much of Italy’s historical, cultural, and religious heritage has derived. But even though the Romans were the first to unify the peninsula, they were not the first to dominate it. That honor goes to the Etruscans, whose empire, Etruria, reached its zenith in the 7th century BC. It was centered between the Arno and Tiber rivers, mostly in Tuscany. The Etruscans were famers, miners, seafarers and warriors, but they were riven by factionalism and in 509 BC, their last king was tossed out by Ligurian-Latin nobles in the small town of Rome. Tired of monarchs, they created the first Roman Republic.

Etruscan culture disappeared by the 2nd century AD, but the Romans were quick to appropriate many aspects of the Greek culture that had taken root in southern Italy and Sicily, where there were Hellenic colonies called “Magna Graecia.” As the colonies were absorbed, so were Greek religion, architecture, and the basic tenets of democracy. During the 1st century BC, Julius Caesar defeated Gaul, making Rome the ruler of the entire Mediterranean world. After Caesar’s assassination in 44 B.C., his nephew Octavian, later called Augustus, became Rome’s first official emperor. The capital became an architectural showcase, and new territories stretched across Europe into Asia Minor, existing under a “Pax Romana” that brought prosperity and stability.

Pax Romana declined in the 3rd century A.D. thanks to inept and corrupt emperors, and attacks by outside barbarians. Rome eventually embraced Christianity in 313 under Constantine I, who established an eastern capital in Constantinople. But splitting the Rome into western (Roman) and eastern (Byzantine) halves did not halt the empire’s demise. The eastern Roman empire fell in 476, and though the Byzantine half survived, it never regained the full might of Rome. In 800, Italy was briefly reunited under , but soon disintegrated into squabbling kingdoms.

Italian culture peaked during the 15th and 16th-century Renaissance. The independent city-states formed a delicate balance of power, with ruling families (such as the Sforzas, Borgias, and the Medicis) funding a golden age of art, invention, and intellectual activity that produced some of the greatest figures of Western civilization—Leonardo da Vinci, Michelangelo, Dante Alighieri, Brunelleschi, Galileo, and others. It did not, however, stop the rival families from fighting.

87 By the 19th century, many Italians believed that they could function as a single nation, a belief spearheaded by the general Giuseppe Garibaldi. Independence was declared in 1861, and by 1870, the nation was consolidated under King Victor Emmanuel II. Italy was ruled as a monarchy and joined the Allies in World War I. But the 1920s ushered in a dark era as Benito Mussolini organized discontented Italians into the Fascist Party to “rescue Italy from Bolshevism.” What he delivered was a totalitarian state. Mussolini joined with Hitler and fought the Allies during World War II, during which 400,000 people were killed, hundreds of thousands were left homeless, and the economy was ruined. In 1945, Mussolini was captured and killed by partisans.

Italy was again declared a republic in 1946, but remained seriously divided during the postwar era by political extremes. Governments rose and fell, and in the 1970s, a series of terrorist acts by the left-wing Red Brigades threatened stability. By the early 1980s, the terrorists had been suppressed, but public discontent spilled into the 1990s as inflation and ongoing scandals involving public officials and the Mafia altered Italian politics. Parties dissolved, new ones formed, and new alliances emerged. This led to the election of media mogul Silvio Berlusconi as Prime Minister in 1994. But within a year, Berlusconi was forced to resign. He ran again in 2001 and was reelected, setting up a pattern that repeated for more than a decade: Berlusconi has been Prime Minster three separate times between 1994–2011, and continues to remain a political force despite having been convicted of tax fraud.

The current Prime Minister, independent Giuseppe Conte, was elected in 2018 and heads up a populist coalition. Among his accomplishments have been the introduction of a national guaranteed minimum income, the nationalization of several companies, stricter immigration policies, and the western world’s first national lockdown in response to COVID-19.

Slovenia

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 7,827 square miles

• Capital: Ljubljana

• Population: 1,983,412 (estimate)

• Languages: Slovenian is the official language.

• Religions: Catholic 57.8%, Muslim 2.4%, Orthodox 2.3%, other Christian 0.9%, unaffiliated 3.5%, other or unspecified 23%, none 10.1%

• Time Zone: Slovenia is on Central European Time, six hours ahead of Eastern Time. Summer hours operate from the last Sunday in March until the last weekend in October.

88 National Holidays: Slovenia

In addition to the holidays listed below, 05/01 Labor Day/May Day Slovenia celebrates a number of national 06/25 Statehood Day holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter and Whit Sunday. To find out if you 08/15 Assumption of Mary will be traveling during these holidays, please visit www.timeanddate.com/holidays. 10/31 Reformation Day

01/01 New Year’s Day 11/01 Remembrance Day

02/08 Preseren Day 12/25 Christmas Day

04/27 Day of Uprising Against Occupation 12/26 Independence and Unity Day

Slovenia: A Brief History While Slovenia experienced many of the same historical events as its neighbors, its development diverged in several important ways. For one thing, we know a little more about the Bronze Age inhabitants who predated the Illyrians here: they were marsh dwellers who lived in huts on stilts south of present-day Ljubljana, trading along the Amber Route that linked the Balkans with the rest of Europe. By 400 BC, the Celts established the first political entity on Slovenian soil, the Noric kingdom. The Romans annexed this and brought Slovenia into its larger province, Illyrium.

As Rome declined, Slavs arrived and eventually joined with the Frankish kingdom to form the Duchy of . Charlemagne sealed the deal when he made Carantania a vassal state called Carinthia, and established Roman Catholicism as the state religion. This brought Slovenia into the fold of the Holy Roman Empire, and far from the sway of eastern Orthodoxy. By the 10th century, control of the Holy Roman Empire fell to German nobility. They replaced local Slovenian lords with German ones, reduced the peasants to serfs, and divided Slovenia into six provinces that remained intact until 1918: , Carinthia, , Gorica and the White March.

Between the late 13th and early 16th century, almost all of Slovenia passed to the Hapsburgs, who improved the infrastructure, opened mines, and lifted the economy. But soon, Germanic domination of the political and cultural scene faced a challenge. Slovenia was never occupied by the Ottomans, but under the Hapsburgs, it had to fight many battles against the Turks. Slovenian peasants were required to pay for their own defenses, and also pay tribute to their feudal lords. Between the 14th and 19th centuries there were more than 100 Slovenian peasant revolts.

Another turning point came when the Protestant Reformation reached Slovenia at the end of the 16th century. Many Protestant reformers wrote their treatises in the vernacular, elevating the status of Slovenian language. An awakening of Slovenian identity had begun.

When the Hapsburg dynasty was dismantled after World War I, Slovenia joined the Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and . But much of Slovenia’s land was ceded to Italy, Austria, and Hungary, and there was dissatisfaction with the government, which was dominated by Serbs. But when the Nazis invaded in 1941, a larger threat had to be dealt with. Communists and other left-wing

89 groups formed a Liberation Front. The people took up arms, and fought in the best-organized anti-Nazi resistance in Europe. The communist partisan leader, Josip Broz Tito, became the leader of the new Socialist Federal Republic of .

When Tito died in 1980, Slovenian dissatisfaction with the Serb-dominated government deepened. In 1987, a Slovenian magazine published an article calling for political pluralism, democracy, a market economy and more Slovenian independence, but stopped short of calling for secession. But Yugoslavia’s new de facto leader, Serbia’s Slobodan Miloševic, resolved to put an end to it. Slovenia doubled down and in 1990, it voted to become an independent republic. The Yugoslav army marched on Slovenia, but after meeting with unexpected resistance, units of the federal army began disintegrating.

Since no territorial or ethnic issues were involved, the Yugoslav government agreed to a truce and finally withdrew in October 1991. Slovenia enacted its own constitution in December, and was recognized by the European Community in January, 1992. In May, 1992, it became the 176th member state of the United Nations, and in 2004, it joined the European Union.

Malta

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 121 square miles

• Capital: Valletta

• Languages: Maltese and English are the official languages.

• Location: Malta is an archipelago surrounded by the Mediterranean Sea.

• Geography: Located about 60 miles south of the Italian island of Sicily across the Malta Channel, Malta’s three largest islands–Malta, Gozo, and Comino–are the only ones inhabited. Numerous bays along the indented coastline of the islands make excellent harbors. The islands’ landscape consists of low hills with terraced fields. The highest point in Malta is Ta’ Dmejrek, at 253 m (830 ft). Although there are some small rivers at times of high rainfall, there are no permanent rivers or lakes on Malta.

• Population: 502,653 (estimate)

• Religion: Roman Catholic 98%, Other 2%

• Time Zone: Malta is on Central European Time, six hours ahead of U.S. EST. When it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is noon in Valetta.

90 National Holidays: Malta

In addition to the holidays listed below, Malta 05/01 Labor Day / May Day celebrates a number of national holidays that 06/07 Sette Giugno follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter. To find out if you will be traveling during these 08/15 Assumption Day holidays, please visit www.timeanddate.com/ holidays. 09/21 Independence Day

01/01 New Year’s Day 12/08 Feast of the Immaculate Conception

02/10 Feast of St. Paul’s Shipwreck 12/13 Republic Day

03/31 Freedom Day 12/25 Christmas Day

Malta: A Brief History Maltese history dates back more than 8,000 years to Neolithic times. Around 5200 B.C., farmers arrived from Sicily. During the Megalithic era they built great temples from 3600 B.C. to 2500 B.C., many of which still stand. During the Bronze Age, another group arrived from Sicily and their villages, temples, and other structures differed greatly from those of the original settlers.

In the 8th century B.C., Phoenicians occupied Malta. Mdina is thought to be one of their main urban centers based on the discovery of Phoenician tombs there. During the 6th century B.C., Malta was annexed by the Carthaginian Empire, becoming an important trading post between Italy and North Africa. It fell to Rome in 255 B.C. Malta thrived under Rome. A close relationship was formed with Sicily, Latin became the official language, and Roman religion was introduced.

The island continued to prosper until the 6th century A.D., when it was incorporated into the Byzantine Empire. The Byzantines fortified Malta’s defenses due to Muslim conquests in the region. But by 870 A.D., Muslims from North Africa invaded and after a weeks-long siege, they killed all the inhabitants of the Byzantine city of Melite. The Muslims who settled here during the mid-11th century rebuilt much of the city. Under Arab rule, new irrigation techniques were introduced, locals were allowed to practice non-Muslim faiths (by paying a tax), the gastronomy expanded, and Arabic words entered the lexicon. The Arabic influence left a lasting impact.

In the late 11th century, Normans drove the Arabs from Malta and ruled the island as part of the . During this period, many people from southern Italy and Sicily migrated to Malta. After being bought and sold multiple times, Malta was joined with Spain. As the Ottoman Empire continued its expansion in the early 16th century, the Holy Roman Emperor Charles V (of Spain) feared a Turkish takeover of Europe. As a bulwark against this, he gave Malta to the Knights of St. John. During their 400-year reign, the Knights made Italian the official language and developed the island by building palaces, churches, and fortifications. They repelled the Turks in the epic Siege of Malta in 1565, despite being severely outnumbered. Following the Great Siege, the Knights founded Valletta, which remains the capital of Malta to this day.

91 With the Ottoman threat removed, the Knights grew powerful and rich, using their military skill to expand into surrounding areas, often using outright piracy. The Knights controlled Malta until 1798, when Napoleon kicked them out. But the French were quickly defeated by Britain, who invited the Knights back in 1802. In 1814, Malta became a British colony.

In 1921, the British granted Malta legislative control over local affairs, but held control over foreign and military issues. In the early days of World War II, Britain underestimated the strategic importance of Malta and left it undefended until June 11, 1940, when Italian bombers attacked Grand Harbour. With only three biplanes, Malta mounted a heroic defense. Soon, the island became “Fortress Malta,” a major haven for Allied aircraft and submarines. The Maltese people showed great courage and earned Malta the George Cross of Britain for heroism.

Malta finally gained independence in 1964 and in 1974, Malta became a republic. Malta was under the power of the Nationalist Party from 1962 to 1971, at which time the Labour Party took control of the government. The government has gone back and forth between the two parties and in 2004, Malta was accepted into the European Union. Malta’s economy expanded rapidly when Malta became part of the Eurozone in 2008.

Labour’s Joseph Muscat became Prime Minister in 2012, but his government was rocked by scandals including money laundering and a citizenship-for-investment scheme. It was reported by journalist Daphne Caruana Galizia. After her 2017 assassination, members of Muscat’s government were arrested and Muscat resigned. A January 2020 special election elected Robert Abela Prime Minister.

92 RESOURCES

Suggested Reading

Venice Death in Venice and Other Tales by Thomas Mann (1912, Fiction) An aging writer retreats to Venice for artistic inspiration, and finds himself entranced by the mere sight of a beautiful young boy. His aesthetic appreciation turns into obsession as he secretly stalks the boy around the city, even as a cholera epidemic is brewing. The decaying splendor of Venice is the perfect setting for this complex meditation on art, sex, morality, and mortality.

History of Venice by John Julius Norwich (History) The author skillfully manages to compress 1,000 years of Venetian history into one book.

The World of Venice by Jan Morris (1995, History/Travel) A new edition of a classic that blends history, social commentary, anecdotes, and personal travel experience.

Vivaldi’s Virgins by Barbara Quick (2007, Historical Fiction) Violin prodigy Annina moves from the orphanage to the elite, all-girls orchestra led by composer Antonio Vivaldi. As her musical education unfolds, so, too, does the debauchery, artistry, and intrigues of 18th-century Venice.

First Spritz Is Free: Confessions of Venice Addicts by Kathleen Gonzalez (2018, Anthology) This collection gathers essays from 34 contemporary contributors—chefs, bloggers, photographers, musicians, tour guides, historians and more—who share the quirky secrets and exquisite pleasures of life in La Serenissima.

Coastal Italy Trieste and The Meaning of Nowhere by Jan Morris (2001, Travel/History) A fascinating account of Trieste incorporating both history and personal stories from her life as a solider (formerly James Morris) during WWII.

Trieste by Dasa Drndic (2014, Fiction) In postwar Trieste, Haya Tedeschi weaves together documents, photos, and memories to relocate her son, who was fathered by an SS officer during the Nazi occupation, and taken away from her. Her obsessive research uncovers the stories of many others, including the 9,000 Italian Jews whose names are listed in the middle of this acclaimed book, like a wall of remembrance.

Ravenna: Capital of Empire, Crucible of Europe by Judith Herrin (2020, History) The importance of Ravenna as a bridge between Rome and Byzantium, and therefore East and West has long been understudied by scholars—until now. Herrin’s award-winning book explores Ravenna’s political and cultural heyday (from the 5th through 8th centuries), and provides meticulous details and illustrations that bring the early Middle Ages to life.

93 Casa Rossa by Francesca Marciano (Fiction, 2003) A young woman returns to her family home in Puglia to prepare it for sale, and conjures up the memories of three remarkable women whose choices in life indelibly shaped her family’s history.

Gino’s Italian Adriatic Escape: A Taste of Italy from Veneto to Puglia (2019, Cookbook) If you like what you eat during this adventure (of course you will), join British-Italian celebrity Gino d’Acampo on a culinary journey along Italy’s Adriatic coast, and learn how to recreate all that deliciousness at home.

Otranto by Maria Corti (1992, Fiction) Five narrators from different walks of life share their experiences during the 1480 Siege of Otranto by Ottoman Turks, and its aftermath. Their overlapping tales provide a detailed historical account as well as beautiful descriptions of everyday life.

Salento By 5: Friendship, Food, Music, and Travel Within the Heel of Italy’s Boot by Audrey Fielding, Luciana Cacciatore, Carlo Longo, David Fielding, and Lucia Erriquez (2016, Nonfiction) Two Americans and three Italians from southernmost Puglia celebrate the land that connects them all. Filled with travel tips, recipes, anecdotes history, watercolor illustrations, and more.

General Italy The Italians by Luigi Barzini (1964, Social Commentary) This definitive guide to the Italian national character and way of life, written by the renowned journalist and politician, still rings true today.

La Bella Figura: A Field Guide to the Italian Mind by Beppe Severgnini (2007, Nonfiction/Humor) An Italian columnist and best-selling author journeys through his homeland while providing hilarious observations at the beautiful face Italy shows to the world, and the chaotic, garrulous, and often contradictory impulses that lie behind it.

The Monster of Florence by Douglas Preston and Mario Spezi (2008, Non Fiction) A remarkable true story by best-selling author Douglas Preston who, with Italian investigative journalist Mario Spezi, try to track down the identity of a serial killer known as the Monster of Florence.

History by Elsa Morante (1974, Fiction) A half-Jewish, Roman mother tries to survive in WWII Rome with her two sons. Though the main characters are fictional, each chapter opens with an factual account of real events that happened when the action takes place.

SPQR: A History of Ancient Rome by Mary Beard (History) World-renowned classics expert Mary Beard gives an excellent, if somewhat dense, background on the world of ancient Rome.

I, Claudius by Robert Graves (Historical Fiction) An engaging fictionalized look at the life of Emperor Claudius, who survived the reigns of Augustus, Tiberius, and Caligula. The book is the basis for the acclaimed PBS series of the same name.

A Farewell to Arms by Ernest Hemingway (Literature) Set during the Italian campaign of World War I, this classic novel tells the story of a romance between an American ambulance driver and an English nurse.

94 It Happened in Italy by Elizabeth Bettina (Memoir/History) Recounts true stories about how regular Italians defied the SS and hid or protected their Jewish neighbors during the Holocaust— and the author’s story in how she found out about this slice of Italian history

Slovenia Slovenology: Living and Traveling in the World’s Best Country by Noah Charney (Memoir/Travel) A witty and wise guidebook from an American art historian. The title tells you something about his love for Slovenia’s history, food and drink, sights, music and people.

Forbidden Bread: A Memoir (Memoir) A New York financial analyst leaves her home and job to marry her Slovenian poet-lover. As she struggles to understand her new family and Slovenia’s complex history, language, traditions and old-fashioned sexism, Slovenia itself is being transformed. A love story with witty and worldly observations on the birth of a new nation.

I Saw Her That Night by Drago Jancar (Fiction) Explores the disappearance of a young woman from Ljubljana during a turbulent period in that city’s history, as told by five different people.

Malta Empires of the Sea: The Siege of Malta, the Battle of , and the Contest for the Center of the World by Roger Crowley (2008, History) In this New York Times bestseller, the author explores important moments in the decades-long battle between Christendom and Islam in Malta and the surrounding areas of Europe. Crowley, a respected narrative historian, delivers a gripping account of the brutal struggle for supremacy in the Mediterranean that reads more like a page-turning thriller.

Death in Malta by Rosanne Dingli (2005, Mystery) This story follows a novelist as he flees to Malta to avoid his crumbling marriage and seek inspiration for his next novel. He finds it when he discovers that a child has gone missing from his new village.

The Religion by Tim Willocks (2007, Historical Fiction) This sprawling epic based on the Siege of Malta in 1565 vividly brings to life the clash between Islam and Christianity with Suleiman the Magnificent pitted against the Knights of Saint John the Baptist in their Christian stronghold on the island of Malta. Packed with graphic violence, intrigue, and romance, the book holds its own in the pantheon of great historical fiction.

The Sword and the Scimitar by David Ball (2004, Historical Fiction) Originally published in 1980 as Ironfire, this epic novel follows Nico and Maria, 16th-century Maltese siblings who are separated when Nico is abducted by slavers and brought to the Ottoman court. Desperate to find him, Maria gets caught up with clandestine Jews, the Knights of St. John, and the events surrounding the Siege of Malta. Aside from the dramatic plot, this book offers a vivid depiction of how religion and politics shaped everyday life for people of all faiths.

The Kapillan of Malta by Nicholas Monsarrat (1973, Historical Fiction) The funeral of a priest in Gozo provides an occasion to recall that cleric’s life, and the life of Malta itself. In April 1942, as Axis bombers rained death all over the island, Father Salvatore SantoNobile ministered to

95 the Maltese people who sheltered with him for six days in Valletta’s ancient catacombs. He kept them regaled with six tales of epic events in Maltese history, each with a message of hope and inspiration.

The : A Military History of the Knights of St John by John Car (2017, History) Traces the roots of this powerful and prestigious order from its humble origins as innkeepers and health caregivers for pilgrims to the Holy Land; to its consolidation as one of the wealthiest Christian military orders; to its present disintegration into numerous chivalric and charitable groups.

Return to Malta by Anne Fiorentino Pflug (2018, Travel Memoir) The author, a native Maltese, visits several locations that prompt personal memories, as well as the fresh impressions of foreign friends who are discovering her home for the first time.

Suggested Film & Video

Italy (1997) Roberto Benigni is the lead actor and director of this heart-wrenching comedy/drama about a Jewish Italian bookshop owner in Mussolini’s Italy who tries to shield his son from the horrors of a Nazi concentration camp. Italian with English subtitles.

La Strada (1954, Drama) Iconic Italian filmmaker Federico Fellini directed this tale of a waif named Gelsomina (played by his wife, Giulietta Masina) who is sold into the employ of Zampano (played by Anthony Quinn), a brutal strongman in a traveling circus. Italian with English subtitles.

The Bicycle Thief (1948, Drama) As it follows a man desperate to retrieve the stolen bicycle that is crucial to his family’s survival, Vittorio De Sica’s film subtly examines the human condition, society, family, justice, and anguish in the poverty of post-World War II Italy. Simple and powerful, many consider it one of the greatest films of all time. Italian with English subtitles.

1900 (1976, Drama) Bernardo Bertolucci’s epic history follows the lives of two friends (one a peasant, the other a land-owner) born on the same day in Italy. Their lives unfold with vivid cinematography and lush imagery of the beautiful countryside. The movie jumps forward, to the end of World War 1, and follows their story until 1945. The original version clocks in at well over five hours (the longest commercially released film ever), but it always fascinates and never bores. Italian with English subtitles.

Ciao, Professore! (1994, Comedy) The great Italian screenwriter and director Lina Wertmuller (Seven Beauties, Swept Away, and many more cult classics) helmed this “fish out of water” comedy about an elementary school teacher from northern Italy who is mistakenly sent to a poor town in the Naples region of southern Italy. Italian with English subtitles.

Tea with Mussolini (1999, Drama) A semi-autobiographical account of Zeffirelli’s life in World War II Italy. Luca, Zeffirelli’s character, is raised in Florence by his absent father’s secretary among a group of British and American women, who must deal with the rise of fascism, the dangers of resistance, and weather dictatorial custody and betrayal.

96 Big Night (1996, Comedy/Drama) This brilliant little gem is about the volatile relationship between two brothers and their failing Italian restaurant in late-1950s America—a time when “authentic” Italian dining was often a recipe for disaster. Primo (played by Tony Shalhoub) is the uncompromising chef. Secondo (his younger brother played by Stanley Tucci), runs the dining room. Sparks fly as they prepare a feast of a lifetime during one special “big night” to try to save the business. The soundtrack in wonderful too, featuring Louis Prima lots more ‘50s-era Italian- American artists.

Summertime (1955, Drama/Romance) A lonely spinster comes to Venice, falls under its spell, and surprisingly finds herself falling in love with an unlikely suitor. Katherine Hepburn is the leading lady, but Venice itself is the star of this beautifully filmed, David Lean .

The Merchant of Venice (2004, Drama) Al Pacino gives us one of the most masterful portrayals on stage or screen of Shakespeare’s tragic moneylender, Shylock. He receives strong support from Jeremy Irons and Joseph Fiennes, and Venice itself, where much of the production was filmed. The city looks so enticing, it’s a wonder that Pacino did not chew up the scenery.

The Wings of the Dove (1997, Drama) With no economic prospects, Edwardian lovers Kate and Merton are unable to marry, but then a prospect shows up in the form of a dying American heiress. Her only wish? To see Venice and fall in love. A plot is hatched, with all the psychological nuances you would expect in this sumptuous film version of the Henry James novel.

The Tourist (2010, Thriller) Beautiful Elise (Angelina Jolie) has a mysterious off-screen lover, Pearce, who has fled England and is wanted by both Scotland Yard and the mob. He tells Elise to entrap an unwitting tourist (Johnny Depp), who will be mistaken for Pearce (who is rumored to have altered his appearance), and arrested in his place. This convoluted caper plays out beautifully in Venice’s mysterious alleys, romantic canals, and opulent palaces.

Don’t Look Now (1973, Drama) Grieving the death of their daughter, a Donald Sutherland and Julie Christie come to Venice seeking solace. Instead, they are plunged into a hallucinatory world where the supernatural seems to pervade every atmospheric inch of Venice. An eerie, erotic thriller from director Nicholas Roeg, based on a Daphne du Maurier novella.

Amarcord (1973, Drama/Comedy) This semi-auto-biographical masterpiece, whose title means “I remember,” is director Federico Fellini’s loving and fantastical homage to his 1930s boyhood in the Adriatic coastal town of Rimini. Ribald, exaggerated, filled with hilarious characters and infused with warmth, it won the Oscar for Best Foreign Film.

The Life Ahead (2020, Drama) At 86, makes her first screen appearance in ten years in this original, filmed in Puglia. And it’s a stunner. She plays , a Holocaust survivor who takes in the children of local sex workers. A neighbor asks her to care for Momo, a Senegalese refugee whose delinquency may be too much for Rosa, whose own tormented past is catching up to her.

The Gospel According to St. Matthew (1964, Biblical Drama) Considered a classic of world cinema, this story of Jesus’ life was shot in neo-realist style in the ancient rockbound city of Matera, which director Pier Paolo Pasolini found to be more authentic in feel than Galilee itself.

97 Two Women (1960, Drama) Sophia Loren won her first Oscar for this gripping portrayal of a Roman mother trying to protect her daughter from the ravages of World War II. Directed by Vittorio de Sica and based on the acclaimed book by Alberto Moravia.

Rome (2005-07, Television Series) This multiple Emmy-winner from HBO deftly weaves the stories of fictional and real characters (Julius Caesar, Octavian, Marc Antony, Cleopatra, etc.) during Rome’s 1st century BC transition from a republic to an empire. Outstanding production values and a stellar cast.

Roman Holiday (1953, Romantic Comedy) A runaway princess (Audrey Hepburn) sheds her royal persona to experience Rome as the Romans do, with reporter Gregory Peck as her guide. Between the leads and the glorious Roman locations, it’s hard to know where to feast your eyes.

La Dolce Vita (1960, Comedy) The “sweet life” is anything but for Marcello (Mastroianni), a dissipated gossip reporter with whom we spend seven debauched and disjointed nights in mid- century Rome. Considered one of Fellini’s masterpieces. Italian with English subtitles.

Rome, Open City (1945, Docu-Drama) Roberto Rosellini’s landmark, neo-realist film is as remarkable for its content (the story of a real-life priest and the Roman Resistance fighters he helped) as for the hardships faced while making it during the actual Nazi occupation.

Slovenia No Man’s Land (2002, Comedy/Drama) Filmed in Slovenia, this allegorical look at the Balkan War won the 2002 Golden Globes and the Oscar for Best Foreign Film. Two soldiers, one Bosnian, one Serb, find themselves facing off in a trench in no man’s land. Insults and concessions ensue until a third soldier awakens nearby, but cannot move as he is sitting above a bouncing mine. The men forge a truce as they try to get help, and to find common ground.

Good to Go (2012, Comedy/Drama) A weary, disillusioned music teacher in his late 70s decides to retire—not just from his job, but from living. He buys a cemetery plot and moves into a retirement home. But once there, surprising turns make him rethink his decision, and his life.

Cheese and Jam (2004, Comedy) Lovely Slovenian Spela decides to leave her beer-drinking, jobless Bosnian husband, Bozo. Desperate to keep her, Bozo takes a job smuggling illegal immigrants, and things go wildly wrong. A black comedy about stereotypes, village life, and love.

Malta Simshar (2013, Drama) based on true events, this story follows parallel plot lines about a Maltese family on a boating vacation, and would-be North African migrants caught in the political crossfire between Italy and Malta as to who will take them in. Both parties become stranded at sea, with heartbreaking results. An Oscar nominee for Best Foreign Film.

The Malta Story (1953, War/Romance). Pretty decent British war flick detailing the story of Malta coming under siege during the Second World War when both Allied and Axis forces realize how vital the island is to their supply lines—with RAF reconnaissance pilot (played by Alec Guinness) playing a crucial role in defending it from the advancing enemy forces.

98 The Battle for Malta (2013, Documentary) This highly acclaimed 60-minute documentary presented by British historian James Holland for BBC Two depicts the horrors Malta faced during WWII when more bombs were dropped on the tiny island than all of Britain during the Blitz. Available on YouTube

The Maltese Falcon (1941, Mystery). We know that this great Humphrey Bogart mystery drama was entirely shot in America and doesn’t have much to do with Malta, but it never gets old. Watch it again and consider its whole premise—a hunt for the jewel-encrusted Golden Falcon given to Charles V of Spain by the Knight Templars of Malta as a tribute for the islands.

Useful Websites

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Electricity & Plugs Transportation Security www.worldstandards.eu/electricity/ Administration (TSA) plugs-and-sockets www.tsa.gov

Foreign Exchange Rates National Passport Information Center www.xe.com/currencyconverter www.travel.state.gov www.oanda.com/converter/classic Holidays Worldwide ATM Locators www.timeanddate.com/holidays www.mastercard.com/atm www.visa.com/atmlocator

99 VACCINATIONS NOW REQUIRED FOR ALL TRAVELERS, SHIP CREW, TRIP EXPERIENCE LEADERS, AND COACH DRIVERS Plus, updated Health & Safety Protocols for our Land Tours

The health and safety of our travelers is always our #1 priority, and we understand travelers are concerned about exploring the world in light of the unprecedented crisis we are currently facing. To ensure your safety and give you peace of mind, we have worked with our regional team and listened to government guidance and feedback from our travelers to create these health and safety protocols for our trips. As we continue to make changes, we will keep our website updated with the latest information.

VACCINATION REQUIREMENTS • All travelers, ship crew, and Trip Experience AND UPDATED HEALTH & SAFETY Leaders will have their temperature checked PROTOCOLS FOR SMALL SHIP every time they return to the ship using a non- ADVENTURES contact infrared temperature scanner. • All travelers must be fully vaccinated against • All meals are served by the dining staff— COVID-19 at least 14 days prior to departure buffets are no longer available. and provide proof of vaccination upon VACCINATION REQUIREMENTS AND boarding the ship. If you are unable to UPDATED HEALTH & SAFETY PROTOCOLS provide proof of vaccination upon arrival at FOR SMALL GROUP ADVENTURES ON LAND your destination, you will have to return • All travelers must be fully vaccinated against home at your own expense. COVID-19 at least 14 days prior to departure. If To meet this requirement, please bring your you are unable to provide proof of vaccination original COVID-19 Vaccination Record Card upon arrival at your destination, you will with you on your trip. The white card must have to return home at your own expense. display your name, type of vaccine, and the To meet this requirement, please bring your date(s) the vaccine was administered. We also original COVID-19 Vaccination Record Card with suggest taking a picture of this card to keep for you on your trip. The white card must display your records as a backup. your name, type of vaccine, and the date(s) • All local Trip Experience Leaders, the vaccine was administered. We also suggest ship staff, and crew will be fully taking a picture of this card to keep for your vaccinated against COVID-19. records as a backup. • All coach drivers will be fully • All local Trip Experience Leaders will be fully vaccinated against COVID-19. vaccinated against COVID-19. • All public areas will be sanitized nightly and • All coach drivers will be fully vaccinated all ships are equipped with High Efficiency against COVID-19. Particulate Air (HEPA) filters.

Help us ensure travelers’ safety and health while on our trips. Please follow best health and hygiene practices to prevent the spread of illness—wash your hands regularly and cover your mouth when coughing or sneezing. Together, we can create a safer travel experience for everyone.

Learn more at www.oattravel.com/covid-update

100 Notes

101 Notes

102 103 YOUR TRIP EXPERIENCE LEADER

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