California's Fort Bragg, Willits, & Noyo River Canyon
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California's Fort Bragg, Willits, & Noyo River Canyon Fort Bragg, California "For thousands of years before European settlers, the area in and around Fort Bragg was home to one of North America’s densest and most diverse populations of native peoples, with Pomo being the largest native culture in the area. While most tribal bands lived inland, they frequented the coast to collect shellfish, seaweed, salt, and other resources." <visitforbraggca.com> The city of Fort Bragg started as a garrison built in 1857, named after commanding officer Braxton Bragg, who served in both the US and Confederate armies. The military post was put there to control the Mendocino Indian Reservation. The city was incorporated in 1889 in the county of Mendocino. Mendocino County was one of the original counties designated in 1850. Its government was formed in 1859 with Ukiah as the seat of government. The name, Mendocino, came from Cape Mendocino named by the Spanish. The name means "cold mountain." <enwikipedia.com> Lumber was the main economy during the 1880s. The clear, no knot, Redwoods were highly valued. A train company was started to transport the lumber to mills. The now famous Skunk Train linked Fort Bragg and Willits, California. (see Skunk Train). In 1906, the famous San Francisco earthquake was not only felt there but also in Fort Bragg. On the morning of April 18, 1906, the quake devasted the community. Fires broke out, foundations were damaged, and the water pipes broke. Union Lumber Company founder C.R. Johnson gave an account of the devastation. He noted that a locomotive used to move lumber was under steam and that Captain Hammer was offshore on his steamer and came aboard with his sailors and manned the locomotive's boiler with a fire pump and took water from the mill pond, saving the mill and other buildings. The lumber mill's ability to operate after the quake at full capacity saved the city. <krisweb.com> Today it is the "biggest city on the Mendocino Coast." Its 165 miles north of San Francisco and has a population over 7,000 people and is 83 feet about sea level. Its location on the shore of the Pacific Ocean provides a mild climate year‐round. The city has seen an influx of Native Americans who fish the coastal waters. Tourism has become an important part of the city's economy. The city has also contemplated a name change. <cbsnews.com> <visitmendocino.com> Willits, California Located 20 miles north‐northwest of Ukiah, 1391 feet above sea level, it is also 35 miles from Fort Bragg. The population of the city has diminished due to economic issues. The current population is close to 5,000 people. It was formerly known as Little Lake and Willitsville. Known as the "Gateway to the Redwoods" and "Heart of Mendocino County," its also near the Sherwood Valley Rancheria of Pomo Indians of California, a federally recognized tribe of the Pomo Indians. <visitwillits.com> The Pomo Indians were the original inhabitants of Little Lake Valley in Mendocino County. As white settlers came into the area and became ranchers or lumber harvesters, by 1888 there was an expanding tanbark industry. <visitwillits.com> The first village in the valley was Little Lake in 1859. Poor business relations caused another town to pop up one mile north of Little Lake. A store was opened by Kirk Brier on land owned by Hiram Willits, thus the name Willitsville and later Willits, California. By 1914, it was also the mid‐point of the Northwestern Railroad between San Francisco and Eureka. "Some of the industrial endeavors around Willitsville at this time were: a tannery, a distillery, a grist mill, and a water‐ power mill. There were also several sawmills..." Lumbering helped Willits grow. For example, in 1903, the Irvine and Muir Lumber Co. averaged four and six million feet of lumber yearly. <cagenweb.org> The soil was also rich in the area and afforded fruit, vegetables, and cattle raising. During several different decades it attracted people through such promotions as "Back to the Land," California's Oldest Continuous Rodeo," and "Solar Capital of the World." <visitwillits.com> Like Fort Bragg, earthquakes of 1881, 1887, 1898, and 1901 caused damage, but the 1906 earthquake had disastrous consequences. Willits lies on the San Andreas fault and though no lives were lost, the property loss was extremely high. <cagenweb.org> Willits' history had an interesting character, "Black Bart,"(187501882) never deadly, who used the northern counties from residence in San Francisco to be a lone highwayman who robbed coaches. Described as well dressed, polite, refined, and educated, he even wrote rhymes to law enforcement. One such was: "I rob the rich to feed the poor, which hardly is a sin. A widow ne'er knocked at my door, but what I let her in. So, blame me not for what I've done, And if for any cause I'm hung, Let it be for my verses. (29)" <cagenweb.org> Noyo River Canyon Noyo River Canyon is near Fort Bragg, California. This canyon is interesting because the San Andreas fault transects the head of the canyon. In the 1906 earthquake, the fault slipped about nine meters at the head of Noyo Canyon. <mbari.org> A train ride through Noyo River Canyon from Willits valley includes an ecological wonderland of giant redwoods, 'oldest and most iconic' in the world. <biologicaldiversity.org> "The Noyo River has been the setting for two well‐known movies. "Johnnie Belinda" used the last old bridge across the Noyo and, after the bridge had gone, the Noyo was the setting for a scene from "The Russians are Coming." <mendorailhistory.org A delightful and concise history of the Noyo can be found as a pdf <menorailhistory.org> with interesting descriptions and comments. One of the most interesting was an explanation of how several different groups of Pomo Indians understood their territories without mapping them. The following has been added: "The native (Indian) did not think, like a modern civilized man, of his people owning an area circumscribed by a definite line, in which there might happen to be one or many watercourses. This would have been viewing the land through a map, whether drawn or mental; and such an attitude was foreign to his habit. What he did know was that the little town at which he was born and where he expected to die lay on a certain river or branch of a river ; and that this stream, or a certain stretch of it, and all the creeks flowing into it, and all the land on or between these creeks, belonged to his people; whereas below, or above, or across certain hills, were other streams and tributaries , where other people lived, with whom he might be on visiting terms or intermarried, but who had proprietary rights of their own . " (2) <mendorailhistory.org> The above pdf's chapters include: "Indians of the Mendocino Coast, The Mendocino Indian Reservation, Sawmills on the Noyo, A.W. Macpherson's biography, and the fishing industry." We must not leave out Mendocino County wineries, organic and "Fish Friend" farming: "Mendocino County’s authentic “green” credentials are unsurpassed by any other wine region in the world. The majority of the region’s 570 vineyards remain in the hands of family farmers, many of whom have lived for two or more generations on their land—some tracing their roots to the first settlers in the 1850s. The entire farming community has a rare appreciation of the connection between man and earth. These farmers, grape growers, and winemakers among them, were at the forefront of the sustainable, organic, Demeter certified Biodynamic®, and Fish Friendly farming movement long before it gained the attention of the general population. “America’s Greenest Wine Region” is not a marketing slogan: it is the true reflection of all that this vast and varied county offers those who seek healthy foods and beverages and accessible yet pristine travel destinations." <mendowine.com> This photo program shares photos from our Redwood Route experience. Sources: https://visitfortbraggca.com/, https://www.visitcalifornia.com/experience/fort‐bragg, http://www.krisweb.com/krisbigriver/krisdb/html/krisweb/bigriver_backgrnd/1906quake.htm, https://visitmendocino.com/location/fort‐bragg/, ,https://earthquaketrack.com/us‐ca‐fort‐bragg/recent, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mendocino,_California, http://mendohistoricalsociety.com/index.html, http://historyandhappenings.squarespace.com/mendocino‐county/, https://wiki.kidzsearch.com/wiki/Fort_Bragg,_California, https://www.bestplaces.net/economy/city/california/fort_bragg, https://www.sunset.com/travel/california/fort‐bragg‐california‐travel, https://www.cbsnews.com/news/fort‐bragg‐california‐exploring‐name‐ change/,https://www.cagenweb.org/mendocino/mci/little_bit_of_willits_history.pdf, https://willits.org/, http://www.willits.com/Historypage.htm, https:// visitwillits.com /willits‐history/, https://www.niche.com/places‐to‐live/willits‐mendocino‐ca/, https://www.theoldwestinn.com/willits‐ california/, https://www.willitsnews.com/2018/08/23/femember‐willits‐irmulco‐lumber‐mill‐near‐willits/, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sherwood_Valley_Rancheria_of_Pomo_Indians_of_California, https://mendovoice.com/2020/08/friends‐gualala‐ river‐redwood‐timber‐cal‐fire‐federal‐court/, https://mendowine.com/, https://mendowine.com/press‐facts‐2/, https://www.washington.edu/uwired/outreach/cspn/Website/Classroom%20Materials/Curriculum%20Packets/Evergreen%20State/Section%20II.ht ml, https://cityofwillits.org/DocumentCenter/View/262/City‐of‐Willits‐General‐Plan?bidId=, https://www.mbari.org/northern‐2013‐jul‐29/, https://www.mendorailhistory.org/1_towns/towns/noyo.htm, , https://www.mendorailhistory.org/downloads/The‐Noyo.pdf, and https://www.biologicaldiversity.org/news/center/articles/2010/san‐francisco‐chronicle‐10‐15‐2010.html. acuri.net John R. Vincenti California's Fort Bragg, Willits & Noyo River Canyon .