Ulster Publishing’s Explore Magazine Spring 2019

Summerhouses of Mohonk islands By the time we got to

Plus: Whaling on the Hudson Baker does Beethoven — with a lawnmower 2 • Spring 2019 Explore Hudson Valley

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  ͘ ʡȬȬȬʟȫȥȬʟȨȦȩȧȥ͢   ʟ Explore Hudson Valley Spring 2019 • 3 The summerhouses of Mohonk Paying tribute to a Shawangunk icon on the mountain house’s 150th birthday

John Burdick the ideal beauty of Mohonk and the cloistered concentration of n his underrated novel it, the tight insularity and depth Pattern Recognition, the of its micro-world. The problems father of cyberpunk fiction here are twofold. First, it is way I William Gibson offers for too chatty to be a logo; second, our consideration the postmod- it speaks to grandeur – certainly ern character Cayce Pollard. part of the Mohonk formula – but The novel’s protagonist makes a has little to say of Mohonk’s rustic comfortable living as a freelance and roughhewn modesty, without evaluator of corporate logos and which it might as well be Marriott. symbols. She does not design Thus enter the summerhouses, them, critique them or in any or gazebos as they are commonly way improve, edit or explain misnamed: the rustic, roughhewn them. She simply looks at a pro- structures that dot the entire Mo- posed logo and knows instantly honk campus, providing respite in her gut whether it has the viral and vistas for hikers. The sum- quality, the iconic and memetic merhouses are Mohonk’s flagship energy, to become a powerful feature, reminders that Mohonk is brand image, or whether it is not about nature per se; it is about a stillborn dud, a dead symbol. the first artistic cut by humans into Her talent is nothing more than nature, the DIY aesthetic impulses an extreme semiotic sensitivity to shape the wild with one’s hands. – an exaggerated form of the al- The Mohonk summerhouses archives lergic response to symbols that were inspired by the work of we all share to some degree. Pol- Summerhouse engraving by E.J. Whitney the landscape designer Andrew lard’s sensitivity pays well, but it Jackson Downing, whose sum- also forces her to limit her exposure to replaced it in a wall-to-wall institutional merhouse designs were a fixture at the brands at large and to grind the logos off rebranding. I have a feeling Cayce Pollard great family estates along the Hudson. the buttons on her clothes, lest she be would have been unmoved by that big A summerhouse differs from a gazebo made constantly dizzy and nauseated. glass pavilion/ship/pyramid thingy. mostly by being considerably more raw. When New Paltz’s venerable Mohonk So, consider Sky Top taken, actively The gazebos of Europe tended to be built Mountain House decided upon a logo, it engaged in the service of another brand. of finished lumber. They featured screens had several great options at its disposal, Mohonk has many more bullets in its and cushions, a few layers of insulation a crisis of options and no Cayce Pollard to holster. How about the famous aerial between person and the world of dirt and contract. First, there is the Sky Top tower: shots of the Mountain House and the flies. a powerful image boosted by a compact, deep-set, sculpted lake upon which it is Summerhouses like those at Mohonk iconic name, but one that has become situated? From above, the cliff-hugging were originally fashioned out of unfin- symbolically associated with the New Paltz hotel seems hardly less accretive and ac- ished poles by “rustic carpenters”: farm- community in general. The distinctively cidental than the geology that surrounds ers mostly, with good carpentry skills. notched stony protuberance that looks it. It is a stunning, irresistible image that The amateur artisans were instructed down upon the town was, in fact, exploited has been used as the money shot in every to use the materials they could find at as a formal icon by SUNY-New Paltz for “I Love ” television commercial hand – American chestnut, usually – and years, before this crystal-palace business for decades, speaking eloquently of both to use their imaginations regarding the 4 • Spring 2019 Explore Hudson Valley design of the house. This is my favorite fact about the Mohonk summerhouses. Mohonk’s summerhouses were originally With one notable exception, they were truly improvised. No two are alike, and no fashioned by “rustic carpenters”: farmers mostly, designs exist on paper except for the one exception: the two-level summerhouse in with good carpentry skills. The amateur artisans the main garden. were instructed to use the materials they could fi nd Beginning in the 1870s as the Smiley twins began to develop their new property, at hand and to use their imagination. No two are alike. the original summerhouses featured roofs of thatched rye straw. It was a point of dis- pute between the brothers. Albert wished to change over to chestnut shingle, argu- thatched grass roofs dominate the photo available-but-less-attractive white cedar: ing that shingle roofs were less obtrusive, evidence of Mohonk’s first 100 years. The red for the visible parts, white for the more in keeping with the environment. last of the thatched-roof summerhouses substructures. Brother Alfred prevailed, apparently, as were seen in the 1980s, though most had A testimony to the charming anachro- been replaced by hemlock slab roofs first, nism and eccentricity that Mohonk has and then later cedar shakes by the 1960s. somehow managed to maintain through The chestnut tree blight of the 1910s portions of three centuries, and under began the move toward red cedar con- the ever-increasing pressure of corporate struction, but not for another 20 years, modernity, nobody is entirely sure how All Animal as the ever-industrious Smileys harvested many summerhouses there were. The first Veterinary Services the dead chestnut trees and stockpiled the were built in 1870s. Mohonk seems fairly Dr. Eleanor Acworth, DVM wood for use in summerhouse construc- confident that none have been added since tion. Several generations later, the use 1917. Best guess is that 125 survive out 2264 Rt. 32 Modena of red cedar led to dwindling supplies a high of 155, but “It is doubtful,” wrote 845-255-2900 and Mohonk began a cedar reforesta- Ben Matteson and Joan A. LaChance in AllAnimalVeterinaryServices.com tion initiative in 1996, with the goal of The Summerhouses of Mohonk in 1998, planting 200 new seedlings annually. In “whether anyone today would be able to the maintenance of the summerhouses locate each and every one.” Why do I find today, red cedar is mixed with the more- that so comforting?

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Ben Matteson (Mr. Matteson, to me, eight years earlier: one when I worked there in the late ’70s) of many manifestations engaged the advertising consultants of “taxation without Needham & Grohman and developed the representation” that got spare summerhouse silhouette design as the colonists riled. The Mohonk’s official logo in the 1970s, locked British retaliated to the down by trademark in 1983. Mohonk’s embargo by systemati- official historian Larry E. Burgess notes cally attacking Colonial that, while the first formal use of the sum- ships and ports, with merhouse logo on marketing materials Nantucket, set well off occurred in 1970, a version of the iconic the coast and the busiest design had been used around Mohonk as hub of the New England early as the 1870s: a fact recognized in the whaling fleet, particu- trademark certificate. larly vulnerable to these From a semiotic perspective, the Mohonk depredations. logo is a 10, a knockout. They’d have to Some Nantucketers fled carry Cayce Pollard out on a stretcher. ♦ to Nova Scotia, others to North Carolina. Two Whaling’s surprising prosperous Nantucket- born Quaker brothers Hudson River heyday named Seth and Thomas Jenkins, who had mer- cantile interests in Provi- By water, the trip from the Port of New dence, decided to seek York to the City of Hudson is a journey will lytle promising dockage far- of about 117 miles. One wouldn’t think One wouldn’t think that people in the business ther west, off the coast, that people in the business of hunting of hunting whales far out at sea would ever have and began exploring like- whales far out at sea would ever have imagined Hudson to be an auspicious place to set ly sites along the Hudson imagined Hudson to be an auspicious up shop. But they did, beginning in 1783, just as River: first in , place to set up shop. But they did, begin- the Revolutionary War was drawing to a close. then in Poughkeepsie. ning in 1783, just as the Revolutionary They didn’t feel entirely War was drawing to a close. The industry whalers along the New England coast safe until they found the site of present- that was born there sparked the develop- when the Continental Congress banned day Hudson, then known as Claverack ment of one of America’s first planned trade with England in 1774. Duties had Landing. At the time it was a tiny farming cities and throve for some 60 years, until been levied on whale oil exports to Britain community with fewer than 150 inhabit- the availability of petroleum products all but obliterated the demand for whale oil in the mid-1840s. The search for a port far inland, safe from British navies intent on destroying Colonial ships, got underway among

MODEL/TALENT SEARCH Babies, kids, Teens, 20’s. Models, actors, singers, dancers, writers Sign-up on line NOW! covergirlworld.com Call 201-820-2173. SAVE THIS AD!!!!!! 6 • Spring 2019 Explore Hudson Valley ants, mostly Dutch. Its biggest commercial discoverer. Their early experiment in by 1790, 4,000 by 1800. And whaling was draw at the time was a canoe ferry to Espe- urban planning succeeded so well that the definitely the driving force. In 1797, a ship ranza (modern-day Athens) on the Hudson Proprietors proceeded to lay out all the land called the American Hero brought back the River’s western shore, traversing a canal between the bays in an even, logical grid largest cargo of sperm whale oil in American through the midriver shoal known as the of streets, with forethought as to where all history. Middle Ground Flats. the trades ancillary to shipping would best The British again blockaded US shipping To either side of the landing was a be located. Evidence of that planning still traffic during the War of 1812, causing a bay suitable for mooring deep-drafted persists in some of Hudson’s street names, downturn in the American whaling industry oceangoing vessels. Those two bays were such as Rope Alley. They even set aside a that put the Proprietors’ pioneering firm about as far as a big ship could sail upriver parade ground for public recreation. Their out of business. But the City of Hudson had in those days without the danger of running settlement, and the businesses brought there developed its own economic momentum by aground on shifting sand bars. Since the by the quickly flourishing whaling industry, then, no longer dependent upon a single construction of the shoreline railroad in was clustered at first in the middle of the industry. And whaling was revived by a the 20th century, blocking riverine access grid and then gradually spread sideways. newly formed Hudson Whaling Company to the former port, they’re mostly filled in Many of the Proprietor families had brought beginning in 1829. and built up. But in 1783, when the Jenkins housebeams and other building materials Other Hudson River ports were getting brothers, incorporating as the Nantucket with them, establishing a center-chimney into the action by then, as well. Both the Navigators, arrived and bought up the land architectural style reminiscent of New Newburgh Whaling Company and the in between, the double deepwater port England port towns that contrasted with Poughkeepsie Whaling Company were promised a haven for a whaling fleet, too the Dutch vernacular farmhouses that established in 1832. Experienced whalers far inland for hit-and-run tactics by British predominated elsewhere in the Hudson from Nantucket and New Bedford were gunboats. Thirty whaling families from Valley. recruited to serve as officers and crew, but Nantucket, Providence, Martha’s Vineyard By 1785 the new city’s first newspaper, the investors this time were more local: The and Newport soon joined the Jenkinses, the Hudson Weekly Gazette, was being Dutchess Whaling Company, formed in dividing the land into lots of equal size – published; by 1786 the harbor was home to 1833, was owned by a US Senator, Nathanial 50 by 120 feet – and calling themselves the 25 whaling vessels; and in 1790 Hudson was P. Tallmadge. A ship named after him was Proprietors. named a port of entry for the new nation – a launched in 1836 – just in time for the Panic Within two years there were enough status that it retained until 1815. European of 1837, driven by excessive speculation by settlers from the seacoast to incorporate visitors described Hudson at the end of the banks during the Jackson administration, as a city, only the third within New York 18th century as a cosmopolitan, thriving to usher in seven years of recession. State, and rename it after the river’s Dutch commercial city. It had 2,500 residents The price of whale oil collapsed then, and so did the industry, with kerosene filling the nation’s need for lamp oil Explore Hudson Valley for the rest of the 19th century. The Spring in the Valley Poughkeepsie, Dutchess and Hudson Whaling Companies all sent their last Editorial ships to sea in the 1840s. But the Great Seal of the City of Hudson sports an image EDITOR: Julie O’Connor of a whale to this very day. CONTRIBUTORS: John Burdick, Will Dendis, Sharyn Flanagan, Will Lytle – Frances Marion Platt Dion Ogust, Frances Marion Platt, Lynn Woods

Ulster Publishing

PUBLISHER: Geddy Sveikauskas ADVERTISING DIRECTOR: Genia Wickwire Almanac ADVERTISING: Lynn Coraza, Pam Courselle, Elizabeth Jackson, Angela Lattrell Ralph Longendyke, Amy Murphy, Linda Saccoman, Tobi Watson, Jenny Bella PRODUCTION MANAGER: Joe Morgan Weekend PRODUCTION: Diane Congello-Brandes, Josh Gilligan, Ann Marie Woolsey-Johnson CIRCULATION: Dominic Labate The best Spring in the Valley is one of four Explore Hudson Valley supplements Ulster Pub- weekend lishing puts out each year. It is distributed within the company’s fi ve weekly news- events papers – Woodstock Times, New Paltz Times, Saugerties Times, Kingston Times & Almanac Weekly – and separately at select locations, reaching an estimated delivered to readership of over 50,000. Its website is www.hudsonvalleyone.com. your inbox.

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sical movements (yes, Willie is progres- and so has nothing to complain about. I sive,) while relative youngsters like the personally think it is great. Avett Brothers bring more reverence for Mountain Jam heads over to Bethel tradition to their roots. Ironies like that from June 13 through 16. Visit https:// are just par for the course here. Warren mountainjam.com for the full lineup and Haynes is back on the scene, both as or- ticket packages. ganizer and for two sets with the festival’s – John Burdick flagship band, Gov’t Mule. Speaking of flagships, Michael Franti and Spearhead Mountain Jam, June 13-16, Bethel Woods Catering All Occasions are back after a one-year absence, and all Center for the Arts, 200 Hurd Road, Bethel, is right in the world. www.mountainjam.com • Holiday Parties • Family and Corporate Functions There are other stunners in the lineup, like • Graduations • Birthdays • Weddings the great Alison Krause, the Revivalists, a UFO Fair in Pine Bush • Large BBQs • Pig Roast number of progressive jam outfits like Joe Russo’s Almost Dead and his former partner (7257) (845) 691-SAL’S One of the 99 Vineyard Ave., Highland, NY 12528 in crime Marco Benevento. Toots & the most unusual community www.salscatering.com Maytals bring the requisite reggae, and the rituals here or anywhere, Pine Bush’s Allman Betts Band brings the requisite… annual UFO Fair takes place on May 18 The Marbletown Inn Allmans and Betts. The old guard rejoices. in the Orange County hamlet. The UFO Family Dining & Daily Specials The new guard didn’t quite do their part Fair is an all-day family-friendly festival Italian American Cuisine and gathering of aliens who take over Monday: Chicken Parmesan & Pasta Taste Main Street in a bizarre and often-hi- served with soup, salad, and larious alien- and UFO-themed parade. garlic bread — $9.95 The celebration includes all-day live mu- Wed: Spaghetti sic, kids’ activities and games. For the with Meat Sauce more serious enthusiasts, the Speaker Open served w/ soup or salad Easter and garlic bread — $8.95 Tent will host some of the most notable Thurs: Wing Night speakers in the UFO world as they dis- Eat in 50¢ each & to go 60¢ cuss Pine Bush and its UFO history. Sunday each (min. 12). Hot, Mild, Superhot, BBQ or Honey! UFO Fair, Saturday, May 18, 10 a.m.-4 p.m., Friday: King Crab Legs Free, 121 Rte. 302, Pine Bush, (845) 744-2029, served with soup & salad, vegetable, www.pinebushufofair.com potato & garlic bread — $28.95 “fresh homemade cooking” Sat. & Sun: Prime Rib Night OPEN 7 DAYS King Cut — $19.95 • Queen Cut — $17.95 Serving Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner | 7am – 9pm served with soup, salad, starch, & vegetable Also serving beer & wine Serving N.Y. Style Pizza Outdoor Seating Specials Daily Catering for all your party needs! Serving Lunch & Dinner • Closed Tuesday 3542 main street, stone ridge, ny 12484 2842 Rt. 209, Stone Ridge, NY 845.687.0022 (845) 338-5828 theroostinstoneridge.com

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John Burdick plitude plateaus between them? The thoughtful Lang doing what he highest-profile he could. I talked far too much and of the original con- with mad redundancy, baby. There cert’s founders and the is a way non-actors speak when T producer of the epic up- trying to invest scripted language coming Festival at with reality, a lexicon of hesita- Watkins Glen, Michael Lang can tions, elongations, pitch effects stake a legitimate claim to intel- and disfluencies (um, uh) that are lectual ownership of Woodstock, entirely unnatural but used by the but he doesn’t. He is a “we” per- tin-eared to represent the quali- son when he talks, and over time ties of natural speech. I nailed it. you begin to notice that there are I even detect a few moments of a three levels to his use of that pro- stock NPR vocal inflection, an Ira noun: The first “we” is himself Glass glissando, that heretofore and his closest associates, those had never made an appearance in insomnia gluttons and multi- my mouth. WTF? taskers managing the impossi- But let’s roll this back for a post- ble complexity of booking and mortem, a cold anatomy of embar- overseeing Woodstock 50. The rassment. How did it come to this? second “we” is his generation, the Even though I had already written ’60s youngsters who pulled it off twice about the Woodstock 50 pre- against all odds the first time. liminary lineup announcement, And the third “we” is the human parsing it as best as I could for its race, for Lang remains an idealist surface and hidden messaging, and a planetary voice, even after my brilliant editor suggested that getting off the line with Imagine I take up Lang’s people on their Dragon’s people. Lang sounds open press offer of some Michael young on the phone, sounds in time. The window that the publi- fact almost exactly like the pre- dion ogust cist specified was not only short; possessing kid who emerged as Michael Lang can stake a legitimate claim to it was expired, by several days. I the accidental star of the success- intellectual ownership of Woodstock, but he figured it would never happen. ful Woodstock motion picture, doesn’t. He is a “we” person when he talks, and Hours after I sent my inquiry as notable for his preternatural over time you begin to notice that there are to the not one, not two, but three composure amidst the chaos as three levels to his use of that pronoun. implicated publicists and media for his boyish good looks. groups (Woodstock 50 is, if any- My brief telephone interview with day before now turned stilted and forced, thing, a multiplayer affair), I received an Woodstock torchbearer Michael Lang seeming not only rehearsed but off a beat, unsigned and curt response in the affirma- played out, for me, much like the scene misaligned – not just acting; bad acting. tive. “Michael Lang will call you at Noon in Groundhog Day in which all of Bill The proof is in the file (see above il- ET tomorrow.” It was all I could do not Murray’s amorous moves seem contrived lustration). See the dense, long blobs of to respond in the same font and color, “I and comically ineffectual. Everything that Rorschach audio? That’s me pontificating. will answer my cellular telephone.” had been spontaneous and charmed the The comparatively brief, flat and low-am- At noon I was ready. My questions were 14 • Spring 2019 Explore Hudson Valley clear on the page but fresher in my mind, artists that we have are very vocal about with , and the #Me- themes already forming and awaiting social issues and have their own issues Too movement, and global warming Lang’s input to bring them to fruition. that they are especially concerned with. and the fact that we have a government I felt the fine, neurological readiness for But overall, I wanted it to be an amazing that seems to want to ignore it. So, we’ve give and take, the precarious act of hold- array of great music. gone back to that original motivation, ing your own line as you also respond to and we look at acts from those days and the incoming data with plasticity and a In a formal statement, you wrote: acts from these days, and that is kind of willingness to end up somewhere other “Woodstock 1969 was a reaction by the what this one is about. than where you were aimed. I felt poised youth of its time to the conditions we for a great interview and even began to faced,” implying that to be true to the So, no Beatles again? fantasize about Mr. Lang instructing his spirit of the original, Woodstock 50 has people to hire me on the spot, or – who to respond in different ways to different Yes. ♦ knows? – maybe booking the Sweet Cle- conditions. I read that as you prepar- mentines for the third stage. ing the old guard – your generation – to Woodstock 50 At 11:45 a.m. ET, my cellular telephone expect a festival that is more about the rang. A curt, professionally British woman broad cultural function of the original festival lineup informed me that Michael would be call- concert than the narrow facts of it. You ing at 4 p.m. instead. Fine, I said, and had know, warning us that is not Nostal- a day. When the cellular telephone rang giaFest 50 and that many of the acts will cheduled for August 16-18 again at precisely 4 and I pretended not have lots of MacBooks and no guitars. in Watkins Glen, the Wood- to know who it was when I said “Hello?” I stock 50 festival is promoter knew I was f*cked. What followed, on my It’s basically a show for young people. S Michael Lang’s anniversary end, was a very poor caricature of what We certainly wanted to have all genera- event marking the original Aquar- would have happened for real at noon. tions involved, but the focus is on the ian Festival from 1969. The festival Good thing Mr. Lang was gracious and people who are going to save our bacon, will have three stages and three smaller patient as I told him all about himself. as the saying goes, in the future: the kids “neighborhoods,” each with their own who are going to inherit the problems food and programming and “glamping” I can barely comprehend the complexi- and hopefully be part of the solutions. opportunities. Tickets will go on sale on ties that go into booking something like April 22, Earth Day. For more informa- Woodstock 50, the players and their de- You booked the Zombies! tion, visit www.woodstock.com. mands, the timing, the balances involved in putting together a lineup that is go- We were really thrilled to get them. Day 1: Friday, August 16 ing to be scrutinized, interpreted, vetted The Killers, Miley Cyrus, Santana, The as if it were a newly discovered Shake- When I first watched the Woodstock Lumineers, The Raconteurs, Robert speare play. Given those industry reali- movie years ago, I remember thinking Plant and the Sensational Space Shifters, ties, is it even possible to prosecute a vi- that it was your calm amidst the chaos, Nathaniel Rateliff and the Night Sweats, sion through the process? Do you feel you your composure and nonchalance, that John Fogerty, Run the Jewels, The Head achieved the festival you wanted? made everything seem okay, seem nor- and the Heart, Maggie Rogers, Michael mal. Is composure your superpower? Do Franti & Spearhead, Bishop Briggs, An- It isn’t everything I wanted to include, you even feel the stress? derson East, Akon, Princess Nokia, John but you know acts book a tour a year Sebastian, Melanie, Grandson, Fever 333, ahead, sometimes even more, so not It’s weird, but the weirder things get, the Doroty, Flora Cash, Larkin Poe, Brian everybody is available when you’d like to calmer I get. It’s just my nature, I guess. Cadd, Ninet Tayeb and more. have them. But overall, I’m very pleased with the lineup. I think it is amazing: I am probably not the first to notice Day 2: Saturday, August 17 multi-genre, multi-age. It is really eve- the conspicuous absence of major ’90s- Dead & Company, Chance the Rap- rything that we wanted it to be. associated acts in this lineup, i.e., the per, The Black Keys, Sturgill Simpson, acts that were featured in the two ’90s Greta Van Fleet, Portugal. The Man, Leon What did you want it to be? What were iterations of the festival – no headliners Bridges, Gary Clark Jr., Edward Sharpe some of your keynotes and keywords go- on the order of Green Day, Weezer, Chili and the Magnetic Zeros, David Crosby and ing in? Peppers, et cetera. Was this Friends, Dawes, Margo Price, Nahko and intentional at all? Medicine for the People, India.Arie, Jade It was very much about diversity and Bird, Country Joe McDonaold, Rival Sons, about finding people who are engaged It wasn’t just by accident. We are return- Emily King, Soccer Mommy, Sir, Taylor in the social issues that we are dealing ing to our roots, and the reasons Wood- Bennett, Amy Helm, Courtney Hadwin, with. The legs that Woodstock stands on stock happened in the first place. It was Pearl, John-Robert, IAMDDB and more. are activism and sustainability. So, we something of its time and of the condi- want as many artists as possible to help tions we were facing that brought us all Day 3: Sunday, August 18 us engage people in those issues. That together. In a lot of ways, we seem to be Jay-Z, Imagine Dragons, Halsey, Cage was a major consideration. A lot of the moving backwards, with what’s going on the Elephant, Brandi Carlile, Janelle Explore Hudson Valley Spring 2019 • 15 16 • Spring 2019 Explore Hudson Valley

Monáe, Young the Giant, Courtney the Devil, Liz Brasher and more. ry of Woodstock, and who will and won’t Barnett, Common, Vince Staples, Judah be playing it, and why Mountain Jam and the Lion, Earl Sweatshirt, boygenius, Clearwater Festival isn’t on the mountain anymore, it might Reignwolf, The Zombies, , be easy to overlook the fact that another Hot Tuna, Pussy Riot, Cherry Glazerr, storied festival that is part music, part ac- Leven Kali, The Marcus King Band, Vic- With all the hubbub about who is and tivism – namely, Croton Point’s Clearwa- tory, Hollis Brown, John Craigie, Amigo who isn’t celebrating the 50th anniversa- ter Festival – is back for more in 2019 and has made its own preliminary lineup an- nouncement. One should never sleep on Home & garden Clearwater. Over the years, it has quietly become the most inclusive and progres- Accentra 52i sive of all the major New York summer Insert Pellet “The best selling festivals, belying its reputation as a week- Featuring Smart Operation Easy Touch Stoves insert just got hotter!” Controls — with scheduling, cleaning end of Pete Seeger’s two favorite things: starting at Heat up to 2600 SF, prompts & gauges. 00 features automatic Visit www.harmanstoves.com or $ ignition & temperature banjos and garbage cleanup. Gem Woodstove Company for 1,849 control! CURRENT OFFERS! After a brief hiatus caused by, erm, ad- ministrative reshuffling, Clearwater has been back for a couple of seasons now, and its lineup routinely unites some of the widest-ranging styles of music. If anything, the 2019 roster reads more like an affirmation of the festival’s core Absolute 43 Absolute 63 XXV-TC P68 Allure 50 Heat up to 2400 SF Industry leading heat Heat up to 2300 SF One of the Stylish, powerful Quiet, compact & & control, heat up to Near silence in most efficient stoves & quiet powerful; dual fans 3400 SF whisper mode on the market! 92 lb. hopper! Gardening, Spring Clean-up, FINANCING Come see our Maintenance, Stone Work, AVAILABLE new displays TO QUALIFIED WOOD • PELLET & GAS STOVES • FIREPLACES • SUPPLIES & ACCESSORIES of stoves, Pruning, Trimming, CUSTOMERS 7987 Rt. 32 North • Cairo NY 518-622-3862 inserts & ASK FOR DETAILS Hours: Tuesday - Saturday 9-5 • other times by appointment fireplaces www.gemwoodstoves.comwww.gemwoodstove.com Mulch, Fire Wood & more

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or call 888-305-8726 Peterson Road Solar WindowWi d CleaningCl i • PowerP WashingW Palmer, MA Gutter Cleaning • Soft Roof Wash Residential Cleaning Services Explore Hudson Valley Spring 2019 • 17 values than a real imperial salvo into other markets, as some other years this decade have been. Headliners include Clearwater veteran Ani DiFranco, whose self-managed, politically volatile career is really a model in the Seeger mode. Tom Chapin and Tom Paxton are two stone- cold icons of American folk music. The Wailers, of course, are synonymous with one the world’s great roots music tradi- Compost improves soil quality and structure, binds tions. Josh White, Jr. is a major talent ŶƵƚƌŝĞŶƚƐ ŝŶ ƚŚĞ ƐŽŝů͕ ĂŝĚƐ ŝŶ ŵŽŝƐƚƵƌĞ ƌĞƚĞŶƟŽŶ͕ ĂŶĚ and the son of one of the most culturally ĂĚĚƐďĞŶĞĮĐŝĂůƐŽŝůŽƌŐĂŶŝƐŵƐƚŚĂƚŚĞůƉƐƵƉƉƌĞƐƐƉůĂŶƚ important of all American entertainers. ĚŝƐĞĂƐĞ ƉĂƚŚŽŐĞŶƐ͘ ŽŵƉŽƐƚ ĐĂŶ ďĞ ƵƐĞĚ ƚŽ ƉůĂŶƚ You get the picture. There are no real ƚƌĞĞƐ͕ƐŚƌƵďƐ͕ǀĞŐĞƚĂďůĞƐ͕ĂŶĚŇŽǁĞƌƐ͘ŽŵƉŽƐƚĐĂŶďĞ ĂƉƉůŝĞĚ ĚŝƌĞĐƚůLJ ƚŽ ŐĂƌĚĞŶ ďĞĚƐ Žƌ ŝŶĐŽƌƉŽƌĂƚĞĚ ǁŝƚŚ incongruities in this initial lineup; Clear- ŶĞǁ ƉůĂŶƟŶŐƐ͘ 'ƌŽǁ hůƐƚĞƌ 'ƌĞĞŶ ŽŵƉŽƐƚ ŝƐ ŵĂĚĞ water is owning its legacy as politically ĨƌŽŵ ůŽĐĂůůLJ ƐŽƵƌĐĞĚ LJĂƌĚ ǁĂƐƚĞ ĂŶĚ ĨŽŽĚ ƌĞƐŝĚƵĂůƐ͘ conscious folk festival, broadly defined. KƵƌĐŽŵƉŽƐƚŚŽůĚƐƚŚĞ^ĞĂůŽĨdĞƐƟŶŐƐƐƵƌĂŶĐĞĨƌŽŵ And there is nothing wrong with that, or ƚŚĞh͘^͘ŽŵƉŽƐƟŶŐŽƵŶĐŝůʹŽŵƉŽƐƚdĞĐŚŶŝĐĂůĂƚĂ ^ŚĞĞƚƐĂǀĂŝůĂďůĞŽŶůŝŶĞĂƚǁǁǁ͘hZZ͘ŽƌŐ with this excellent lineup of talent. The Festival runs June 15 and 16. For more, see www.clearwaterfestival.org. – John Burdick

Great Hudson River Revival aka the Clearwater Festival, June 15 and 16, Croton Point Park, Croton-on-Hudson, www.clearwaterfestival.org

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Mark Dion Follies at Storm King Art Center

The 500-acre Storm King Art Center’s featured exhibit this year, opening May 4 and running through November 11, is “Mark Dion: Follies,” a survey of the artist’s signature architectural “follies.” Since the mid-1990s, Dion has frequent- ly employed the form of the architectur- al folly – a compact, decorative structure intended to inspire meaning rather than serve a functional purpose – to create intricate tableaux and house displays of a wide range of delicate and specific objects. The enclosures of Dion’s fol- lies allowing him to create works with a complexity of visual material that would otherwise not be possible in public or outdoor spaces. The exhibition will feature 12 examples created over the past 25 years, many of which will be recreated in slightly altered forms to respond to their new site at Storm King. Drawings and prints will Dlocally owned & operated present the artist’s process in arriving at these works, showing them to be part of a lifelong pursuit in Dion’s work. The 4 Mill Hill Road organizers of the exhibition are senior Woodstock NY 12498 curator Nora Lawrence, director and 845.679.2115 chief curator David Collens and curatorial www.hhoust.com assistant Sarah Diver. ,,ŽƵƐƚΘ^ŽŶ/ŶĐ Works in the exhibition, installed indoors 1HZLLQWKH+RXVW+RXVH and outside, will offer visitors a variety of viewing experiences. Some are intended 22LO3OXV&LVDQH[WJHQHUDWLRQSURGXFW WKDWFRORUVDQGSURWHFWV\RXUZRRGLQRQH to be experienced from the exterior, by VLQJOHOD\HU,WLVWKHEHVWRLOIRUZRRG IXUQLWXUHKDUGZRRGIORRULQJMXVW DQ\WKLQJWKDWLVPDGHRXWRIZRRG Home & garden FRORUVIXPHGDQGVPRNHG SUHFRORULQJ&UHDWLYLW\XQOHDVKHG

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will lytle Construction of Francis Bannerman VI’s elaborately detailed castle/arsenal on began in 1901; it was not completed in Bannerman’s lifetime, and – not surprisingly, considering that it had been built to house 30 million surplus munitions cartridges – an explosion in 1920 collapsed parts of the buildings. Isle be seeing you Explore the islands of the Hudson River

Frances Marion Platt goldmine of destinations all along the shelters a Bird Conservation Area that river – there were 116 boat-accessible is home to bald eagles, cerulean war- re you dreaming of an is- sites at last count, with more planned. blers and a great blue heron rookery of land getaway, but unable to But let’s focus here on spots on islands, about 50 nests. Eight miles of multi-use spare the time or the cash or providing close access to them, south trails wind through a variety of ecologi- A to paddle your way around of Albany and north of Westchester. cal communities. There are two launch the Aegean or the Caribbean? If you’re Moving from north to south, we find: sites: a very nice boat ramp suitable for confident in your kayaking/canoeing both trailers and nonmotorized craft on skills and have access to the right equip- Schodack Island State Park the Hudson River side and a smaller, ment, the mighty Hudson offers nu- Schodack Island State Park sits off the kayak-friendly cartop launch on the merous opportunities closer to home, eastern shore of the Hudson River 13 Schodack Creek. Park facilities include both for overnight and day trips. The miles south of Albany; approximate- 66 campsites (new in 2016) with show- Hudson River Greenway Water Trail ly seven miles of Hudson River and ers nearby, eight miles of bike and nature website at http://hudsonrivergreen- Schodack Creek shoreline bound the trails, a playground with volleyball nets waywatertrail.org/findaccesssites is a 1,052-acre site. A portion of the park and a horseshoe pitch, and pavilions Explore Hudson Valley Spring 2019 • 21 with picnic tables and grills. Interpre- and akee (“land”). It’s worth a trip just weighty decisions about the fate of an tive signage highlights the park’s his- to walk these trails and contemplate the entire indigenous tribe that were made toric and environmental significance. Once an archipelago of six islands, now Real estate joined into an automobile-accessible peninsula with dredged fill after the

Schodack Island was the site of the central council fi re of all the Mahican peoples.

creation of the deepwater navigation channel to Albany, Schodack Island has an awesome historical claim to fame: It was the site of the central council fire of all the Mahican peoples. In fact, the name Schodack is an amalgamation of the Mahican terms ishoda (“fire plain”) $500 OFF Closing Costs** On your qualifying home purchase application .L[Z`V\[V[OLJSVZPUNMHZ[LY

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Hudson River Islands State Park

Accessible only by boat and attracting 21A Colonial Drive, New Paltz small motorized craft along with canoes and kayaks, this sprawling 235-acre 1 AND 2 BEDROOM APARTMENTS park is located within the boundaries of ~ No Security Deposit Option ~ the Stockport Flats section of the Hud- 3 - 12 Month Leasing Terms • Pets Welcome! son River National Estuarine Research Pool & Laundry on Site Reserve. There are three put-in points: Please Call: 845-255-6171 Gay’s Point North (accessible through a hole in the breakwater and suitable only for very shallow-draft, hand-powered craft), Gay’s Point South and Stockport

OR SALE: Clear Brook Farm — Catskill Locale Middle Ground. There are no docks; F Fulfill your Commercial or Residenal Dreams power boats must be moored off the is- Meticulously Renovated 1863 Farm House on the land, or visitors can bring their kayaks/ charming -5 Bedrooms, 3.5 Baths, canoes onshore. 3500 sq ft—2 large original barns with hand hewn These islands are fragile communities timbers + 3 outbuildings on 20 picturesque acres—A with many rare and endangered plant MUST SEE. Currently family compound, professional and animal species. Day-use facilities offices & Hobby Farm. Endless list of possible uses— include restrooms, picnic areas with grills B&B, Event Venue, Retreat, Glamping Sites or One-of and nature trails. Transient camping is -a-Kind Family Compound to name a few! allowed on both the peninsula and the Additional acreage island, first-come, first-served. There is available. $799,000 For more info & pictures: no entrance fee, and no reservations are https://clearbrookfarmny.com needed for these primitive campsites. http://www.realty4seasons.com/featured-listings/ Popular activities include birding, swim- Presented by: The 4 Seasons Realty Group ming, fishing, hiking and hunting. (518) 468-0411 • [email protected] The nearest car-friendly Hudson River Theresa Cuff Realty www.CuffRealty.com e! We’re The Key To Your New Hom PLEASE CALL TO SPEAK WITH ANY ONE OF US! Penny Ducker, Marietta Pentz, Karla Ryan, Carol Stahl Residential • Commercial • Investment Properties 500 LeFever Falls Road, Rosendale, NY 12472 Theresa Cuff cell 845-656-7330 office 845-853-9011 fax 845-853-1702 Broker, Realtor, ABR, GRI LOW INVENTORY LISTINGS NEEDED! Explore Hudson Valley Spring 2019 • 23 It’s Selling Season!

Spring is here… and that means the real estate market is heating up. Glenford Wittenberg, Glenford Orchard Lane, Woodstock $969,000 $549,000 We get it: winter is a bear, the landscape is barren, and nobody's moving. Now it's spring, and new life blooms. Your home is at its most beautiful, the housing inventory is down, and new buyers are inspired. There's never been a better time to list your property — especially when you list with us. Ohayo Mtn Rd, Woodstock Zena Road, Woodstock $699,000 $475,000 C "  K        Þ   Hudson Valley. By leveraging unrivaled real estate expertise, hyper- local market knowledge and advanced digital marketing capabilities, our agents expertly sell faster and smarter to ensure all our clients Paul Saxe Rd, Catskill Ulster Landing, Kingston Make the Right Move. $650,000 $398,000

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access points for those headed for the Hudson River Islands are located upriver STEVENS REALTY GROUP at the Nutten Hook Research Reserve Ferry Road Launch in the Town of VotedV Best Real Estate Firm Stuyvesant in Columbia County and the Coxsackie New York State Boat Launch in in the Hudson Valley the Village of Coxsackie in Greene County.

845-256-886884 | stevensrealtygrp.com Sleightsburg Park

Including this one is a bit of a cheat, since Sleightsburg Spit is technically a peninsula, covering 79 acres right across the from the Kingston waterfront, known as the Strand. But it’s frankly too good to leave out as a kayak/ canoe destination. And two islands do form at high tide at the end of the spit, one of them topped by stone ruins that once served as a lighthouse foundation. Paddling all the way around them is just one of this spot’s attractions: The lower reach of the Rondout is famed as a “barge graveyard,” lined with the rot- ting wrecks of cargo vessels abandoned when the D & H Canal ceased opera- tions in 1904. The put-in, a short drive off Route 9W, is a concrete ramp friendly to both trail- www.987RiverRoad.com ers and nonmotorized craft. Once you’re in the water, you can paddle upstream Real estate

$995,000 )ඈඋ<ඈඎඋ*ൺඋൽൾඇංඇ඀3අൾൺඌඎඋൾ One half acre bordered by babbling brook with On picturesque River Road, minutes from Rhinebeck NY sits a fully restored 1890 perennials and shrubs waiting for your green thumb. Victorian Farmhouse on 9.6 acres of pastoral land with luscious landscaping and 1800’s cottage with oak style kitchen with stainless steel gardens. The open concept chef’s kitchen is a gourmet cook’s dream w/Liebherr DSSOLDQFHVDQGFDUHIUHHODPLQDWHÀRRUV3UHWW\FXUYHG fridge, Fisher Paykel drawer dishwasher and Capitol gas stove with hood. Dining VWDLUGHVLJQLQWKHOLYLQJURRPOHDGVWREHGURRPVGHQ seats 12 overlooking the westerly sunsets. The living room is ready for binge KRPHRI¿FH DQGIXOOEDWK&RQWLQXRXVO\PDLQWDLQHG DQGXSGDWHGZLWKWKHPHWDOURRIKDYLQJEHHQUHSODFHG watching and entertaining. The beautiful original wooden staircase leads to a LQ  5HFHQW FRYHUHG ZUDS DURXQG SRUFK )HQFHG gracious Owner’s Bedroom, guest bedroom/office, walk-in closet and a bright DUHDIRU\RXUIDYRULWHSRRFK%DUJDLQSULFHGE\RXWRI spacious full bath with a 78” shower. The third floor is a large artist’s studio and a town owner ...... $199,900 separate room with the best sunset view for your heart’s desire. Both the carriage house and the barn are restored for your car and storage. The barn would make a fabulous pool house overlooking the stream. All new state-of-the-art systems plus generator insure comfort and efficiency. It’s elegance in country living. Joyce Beymer Principal Broker Joyce Beymer JoyceBeymer.com Highland’s Real Estate Matchmaker! REAL ESTATE 914.388.9808 P.O. Box 441 • 81 Vineyard Ave, Highland, NY 12528 Rhinebeck • Woodstock [email protected] Phone: 845-691-2126 dolly@hellodollyrealestate Explore Hudson Valley Spring 2019 • 25 for the full marine archaeology tour or one of the largest fruit shippers in the in Staatsburg. That’s where you’ll find all downstream toward the Hudson River world until the Civil War blockade wiped the civilized amenities you could wish: a itself to check out the sometime islands, out his transatlantic market. fancy boat ramp, restrooms with show- the Rondout Lighthouse and Kingston Esopus Island offers primitive camping ers, camping, grills, an environmental Point. A shallow bay nestled behind the and a picnic area. All waste is carry-in/ education center, even a golf course with curl of the point is a prime place to watch carry-out. A small beach on the southeast a restaurant. It also houses the headquar- bald eagles dive for fish. side of the island, a few sheltered spots ters of Atlantic Kayak Tours, which offers Wear sturdy closed-toe shoes, socks on the west side and a small cove at the kayak rentals and conducts regular guided and long pants if you want to take the north end are attractive to boaters. Shoals tours to Esopus Island and other nearby walking trail out to the end of the spit, at the extreme north end are marked by riverfront attractions. as it’s rough, muddy and loaded with a nun buoy. Just south of Esopus Island poison ivy. There are a few picnic tables lies tiny Bolles Island, which is privately Pollepel Island and grills in this park, but no restrooms. owned; you can’t land on it, but you can No matter; Kingston’s hopping Rondout paddle around it. neighborhood, with many restaurants and The main automobile-accessible place This 13.4-acre blob of land just offshore watering holes, is right across the creek. to launch your boat to visit Esopus Island from Route 9D, a stone’s throw from is the nearby Indian Kill Marina, on the , has ensconced itself Esopus Island east bank of the Hudson in the mainland firmly in the popular imagination due part of Norrie Point State Park, located to the creepy aura of the ruins of Ban-

Being accessible by water only was one FAMILY OWNED FOR 30+ YEARS of the charms that lured this site’s most GROUP DISCOUNT RATES notorious visitor to sojourn here for 40 days and 40 nights in the summer of 1918: British mystic Aleister Crowley. 100+ TV channels, free wireless internet, fitness area and guest laundry. He claimed to be spending his “magickal retirement” on Esopus Island meditat- Free Continental Breakfast. ing and working on his translation and Handicap accessible rooms available. 1/4 mile to NYS Thruway. British mystic Aleister All local police, firefighters, and EMTs Crowley claimed to be 15% off with valid ID. meditating and working 7 Terwilliger Lane, New Paltz • 845-255-8865 • www.abviofnewpaltz.com on Esopus Island, but he may have been spying on behalf of the US government during WWI.

commentary for the Tao Te Ching, but some have speculated that he may have been spying on river shipping on be- half of the US government during the waning days of World War I. Crowley painted esoteric symbols and slogans in red paint on the rocks lining the island’s SATURDAY, shore, but all traces of his mysterious visit have long worn off. MAY 11, 2019 Long before, the mile- was used as a meeting place by indigenous @ 7:30 PM Esopus Munsee people, who left what Tickets Purchased Ahead: $25; appears to be a megalith behind. Located ORPHEUM FILM & $20 seniors; $7 students directly across from the mouth of Black At the Door: $30; $25 seniors; $7 students Creek, it was known as Pell Island when PERFORMING ARTS CENTER 6050 Main Street, Tannersville, NY 12485 Tickets available at it was part of the estate of Robert L. Pell, catskillmtn.org or 518 263 2063 26 • Spring 2019 Explore Hudson Valley nerman’s Castle located thereon. The Pedestrians can visit the Audubon Cen- not allowed in the marshes surrounding island already had a reputation for be- ter – open Tuesday through Sunday from 9 . However, free public canoe ing haunted when Francis Bannerman a.m. to 5 p.m. – from a parking area at the programs are available in the summer. To VI (1851-1918) chose it as the site for his intersection of Warren Landing Road and view the schedule, visit www.dec.ny.gov/ family’s military surplus business when Indian Brook Road, a little way off Route lands/90413.html. it outgrew its warehouses in 9D: slightly less than a mile round-trip. To and Manhattan. Construction of his paddle through the wetlands, it’s recom- Consult the Hudson River Water Trail elaborately detailed castle/arsenal be- mended that you join a tour group, since Guide at http://hudsonrivergreenway- gan in 1901; it was not completed in access is permitted only under the north watertrail.org for extensive information Bannerman’s lifetime, and – not surpris- railroad trestle into Constitution Marsh about paddling on the Hudson River, ingly, considering that it had been built as the tide stage allows. This area often including detailed maps. And don’t forget to house 30 million surplus munitions has swift currents. Careful preparation to look at the tide chart when you are cartridges – an explosion in 1920 col- is essential for a safe and enjoyable trip, planning your trip. ♦ lapsed parts of the buildings. A devas- and to protect fragile areas and sensitive tating fire followed in 1969, after which wildlife. Landing your boat in the Sanc- the island was placed off-limits to the tuary is permissible only in emergency Learn about Beatrix public for many years. situations. But a volunteer organization called the Foundry Dock Park in Cold Spring is the Farrand and the walled Bannerman’s Castle Trust was formed usual point of departure for the kayak tour garden of Bellefi eld to stabilize the ruins and reopen the site groups run by Hudson River Expeditions, to visitors. Pollepel Island is not yet part or if you want to explore with your own of the Greenway Water Trail, and it’s il- group. Visit http://constitution.audubon. A center of calm and beauty near the legal to land there unless you’re part of a org/programs/guided-canoe-trips to view epicenter of the turbulent swirl of 20th- licensed tour group. In season, the Trust the schedule for Center-run expeditions. century history captured by the FDR conducts regular guided tours including and Eleanor Roosevelt historic sites ferry transport from both Beacon and Iona Island is Bellefield, an elegant 18th-century Newburgh. If you want to do your own house remodeled by famed architects paddling and step ashore, you need to McKim, Mead and White for Thomas hook up with an outfitter. Storm King Located six miles south of West Point, and Sarah Newbold. It now serves as the Adventure Tours depart from Cornwall, 556-acre Iona Island is a bedrock island regional headquarters for the National Hudson River Expeditions out of Cold in the midst of the , Spring. If you want to head out in your bordered to the west and southwest by own group, simply to view Pollepel Island two large tidal marshes called Salisbury and the castle ruins from the water, your and Ring Meadows and the mouth of closest departure points are Plum Point Doodletown Bight, an expanse of shal- in Newburgh and Foundry Dock Park. lows and mudflats. A separate island, Round Island, was attached to the south Constitution Marsh end of Iona Island with fill in the early 20th century. The marshes and shallows occupy one mile between Iona Island and the west shore. In addition to being Though it’s designated as a stop on the part of the Hudson River National Estu- Greenway Water Trail, this magnet for arine Research Reserve, Iona Island and Beatrix Farrand designed large birders doesn’t offer public boat launch its associated tidal wetlands have been portions of the Princeton and Yale sites; it does, however, organize its own designated a National Natural Land- campuses and Dumbarton Oaks, kayak tours in season. (It’s not an island, mark by the . in Washington, DC: indisputably either; but Constitution Island, property Iona Island is comprised of brackish one of the great gardens of the of the West Point Military Academy and intertidal mudflats, brackish tidal marsh, world. open only to walking tours organized freshwater tidal marsh and deciduous for- by the Constitution Island Association, ested uplands. The marsh is a great place Park Service’s properties in Hyde Park. abuts the Sanctuary, so we’re counting to watch wildlife. A variety of waterfowl, But it’s Bellefield’s walled garden that it.) Located just downstream of Storm wetland birds, deer, muskrats, turtles, makes the site truly special. A shrine for King, the 270-acre Constitution Marsh frogs, fish and crabs call the marsh their devotees of horticulture, it’s the earliest is a rich estuarine habitat, particularly home. Bald eagles roost on the island in surviving private garden created by one of for birds. It’s a great place to spot bald the winter, and are often visible from the America’s most celebrated, innovative and eagles, and home to thriving popula- overlook on Route 6/202 across the river. influential landscape designers, Beatrix tions of red-winged blackbirds, mallard The marsh can be viewed along the Iona Farrand (1872-1959). and black ducks, herons and kingfish- Island Causeway (off Route 9W), acces- Born Beatrix Jones, she became the only ers. Bobcats, coyotes, minks and musk- sible by car or on foot. female charter member of the American rats make their homes here as well. Alas, public canoeing and kayaking are Society of Landscape Architects at age Explore Hudson Valley Spring 2019 • 27

26, in 1899. Often in the company of her aunt, the novelist Edith Wharton, Farrand traveled extensively throughout Europe in her youth, taking notes in her journal and meeting luminaries along the way. In an era of garden design dominated by endless rotation of fussy, tender annuals in containers, Farrand joined the likes of England’s Gertrude Jekyll and William Robinson in championing the use of perennial plants in combinations based upon color harmony, bloom sequence and texture, leading to the birth of the mixed border that is standard in gardens today. Farrand combined horticultural expertise, honed through study at Harvard’s Arnold Arboretum, with a keen eye for detail, a near-perfect sense of proportion and a broad foundation in the fine arts and design history. Over a 50-year career, she completed design commissions at sites of national significance including the White House and the Morgan Library.

Weekend

June 15th-16th Ulster County Fairgrounds New Paltz, NY PURCHASE TICKETS AT: www.hvwineandchocolate.com JOIN US FATHER’S DAY WEEKEND! Gift Certificates Available FREE SAMPLING ALL DAY LONG! 85+ VENDORS, WINERIES, BREWERIES, DISTILLERIES AND SO MUCH MORE!

BRING THE FAMILY! KIDS AGES 10 AND UNDER ARE FREE! 28 • Spring 2019 Explore Hudson Valley

While most of her gardens have been lost to time, notable exceptions include the Abby Aldrich Rockefeller Eyrie Garden in Maine, the Peggy Rockefeller Rose Garden at the New York Botanical richard cheek Gardens in the Bronx, large The restored Bellefield garden in Hyde Park portions of the Princeton and Yale campuses and Dumbarton That puts Bellefield, which she landscaped Oaks, in Washington, DC: indisputably one in 1912, in rarefied company, making of the great gardens of the world. the Beatrix Farrand Garden a rewarding Music, entertainment & festivals MasteLate 19th Century

wPresentedorks By:

ORPHEUS IN THE UNDERWORLD OVERTURE, OFFENBACH VIOLIN CONCERTO IN D MAJOR, TCHAIKOVSKY SYMPHONY NO. 8 IN G MAJOR, DVORAK Tickets for sale upon entry or at Jon Handman, April 27 Conductor www.woodstocksymphony.org For April 28-www.woodstockplayhouse.org Adults $25 | Senior $20 | Students $5

Saturday April 27th - 7:30 pm Arlington High School • Rt 55, LaGrangeville, NY Sunday April 28th - 3:00 pm The Woodstock Playhouse |Woodstock, NY

These concerts are sponsored Janet Sung, by Dr. Michael Hahn Violin Soloist For more information: woodstocksymphony.info [email protected] | 845.266.3517 Explore Hudson Valley Spring 2019 • 29 Music, entertainment & festivals DRUMS ALONG THE ESOPUS Sunday May 19, 2019 11-4

Bring your family, chairs, blankets and spend May 18 & 19 the day listening to drums from all cultures. Have a drum? Bring it & drum a song for us. If you don't come & spend the day.

Vendors, dancing, singing, raffle, kids crafts & more! Free Event All Drums BIG INDIAN NATIVE AMERICAN CULTURAL CENTER, INC Welcome Contact MaryLou at 845-254-4238 • [email protected] Big Indian Park - 8293 Rt. 28 Big Indian NY 12410

Sponsored by The Woodstock Chamber of Commerce and Arts

Dutchess County Fairgrounds

2019 CALENDAR OF EVENTS 30 • Spring 2019 Explore Hudson Valley destination for an outing on any fine director emerita of the Conservatory illuminate their history and Farrand’s spring or summer’s day in the Hudson Garden in Central Park, the film captures work. Background information with Valley. Federal budget constraints led to the essence of Farrand’s important period photographs documents how a long period of disrepair in the Bellefield a young woman raised in New York’s garden until 1994, when the Beatrix Gilded Age society, the subject of her Farrand Garden Association was chartered Often in the company aunt’s novels, broke the mold to become by the National Park Service to spearhead of her aunt, the novelist a professional landscape designer, with its revival. It has now been restored with her New York office staffed by younger Farrand’s signature vine-draped walls, Edith Wharton, Farrand women landscape architects. clipped hemlock hedges and pastel borders. Beatrix Farrand’s American Landscapes While overseeing the restoration, traveled extensively had its world premiere in March at the horticulturist Anne Cleves Symmes throughout Europe. New York Botanical Garden in the Bronx. and her colleagues decided to make a A Hudson Valley debut at the Beatrix documentary about Farrand’s legacy. Farrand Garden at the Bellefield Estate Symmes’ husband, documentary film will follow on June 1 and 2 as part of a director Stephen Ives, began work on gardens at a walking pace that reveals weekend-long event and educational Beatrix Farrand’s American Landscapes the structure, color and texture of her symposium in Hyde Park. in July 2016. Narrated and guided by materials and designs. Miller’s thoughtful To learn more, including visiting hours and Lynden B. Miller, a designer of many conversations with garden historians volunteer opportunities at Bellefield, visit public landscapes in and and others who oversee the gardens www.beatrixfarrandgardenhydepark.org. ♦

Kids’ camps & education John Bartram: botanist to kings and Catskills

The eminent Swedish botanist and zoologist Carl Linnaeus, father of modern taxonomy, once called him “the SESSION DATES: Mon - Thurs: June 10-13, June 17-20, June 24-27, July 1-5, July 15-18, July 22-25 Ages 2.5 - 9 Outdoor Fun • Water Play • Crafts • Stories CITY OF KINGSTON Songs • Games • Organic Snacks Parks and Recreation Department FEES: $260 per session Announces Registration for the Following Programs has begun For info, email Ms. Fridlich at: • SUMMER PARKS PROGRAM SUMMER CAMP 2019 [email protected] - School Age 6-13 years old • JR. NATURALIST PROGRAM 16 S. Chestnut St., New Paltz, NY 12561 • 845.255.0033 • www.mountainlaurel.org - Kindergarten-8th grade • YOUTH SWIM LESSONS - Ages 5-14 years old • NJTL TENNIS LESSONS - Ages 6-15 years old • KINGSTON RECREATION DEPT JOHN COOK MEMORIAL BASKETBALL CAMP 3 Week Camp 2 Week Campmp 3 Week Camp Boys and Girls 7-10 years old and 11-14 years old Register online at www.kingstonparksandrec.org or at the PARKS & RECREATION DEPARTMENT MAIN OFFICE IN THE ANDY MURPHY (MIDTOWN) NEIGHBORHOOD CENTER 467 Broadway, KiKingstonnggsttono 845-481-7330-7330 Payment for the programs/activitiestiiese iss dueue at the ttimeime ofof registration and is on 1st comeme1e 1st1sts servedsersese ved basisbasis “Creating Community throughtht roouggh people,pep ople, parks & programs.”graamsm .”” Explore Hudson Valley Spring 2019 • 31 Kids’ camps & education JUNE 24 - AUGUST 9 AGES 7 - 18, CO-ED ACADEMIES & CAMPS AT THE STONE RIDGE CAMPUS New - Animation, Fashion Design with Printmaking, Start a Snow Cone Business Camp (learn how to run your own business) and Printmaking Returning - Fashion Design, Figure Drawing/Painting, Revit Architecture, 3D Printing, Tennis and Soccer Register Online Today! sunyulster.edu/campulster • 845-339-2025

WOODSTOCK SUMMER will lytle TENNIS DW What brought the famed American 2019 botanist John Bartram to the CLUB Catskills? Among his British Woodstock Tennis Club Summer Camp for Kids clients, there was particular, almost mythic interest in the balm ƌƵŶďLJ,ĞĂĚWƌŽ:ĞƐƐĞŚĂůĮŶĂŶĚŶĚƌĞǁŽŶƐƚĂŶƚ of Gilead tree. The WTC Summer Camp encourages players ages 5-16 years old, ŽĨĂůůĂďŝůŝƟĞƐ͕ƚŽůĞĂƌŶƉƌŽƉĞƌƚĞŶŶŝƐƚĞĐŚŶŝƋƵĞ͕ŚĂǀĞĨƵŶĂŶĚďĞ greatest natural botanist in the world.” ĂďůĞƚŽƉůĂLJƚŚĞŐĂŵĞǁŝƚŚƉƌŽƉĞƌƐĐŽƌŝŶŐĂŶĚƐƚƌĂƚĞŐLJ͘ The aristocrats of mid-18th-century Britain – obsessed with natural science, Camp starts June 17th, Monday to Thursday, from 11 am to 2 pm, all summer long. Romantic philosophy and the fad of ŽƐƚƉĞƌĐŚŝůĚŝƐΨϲϬƉĞƌĚĂLJŽƌΨϮϮϬĨŽƌƚŚĞ͞ǁĞĞŬ͘͟ landscape gardening – regarded him ZĞŐŝƐƚƌĂƟŽŶĨŽƌŵƐĂƌĞĂǀĂŝůĂďůĞĂƚǁǁǁ͘ǁŽŽĚƐƚŽĐŬƚĞŶŶŝƐ͘ĐŽŵͬũƵŶŝŽƌƐ as their very own Johnny Appleseed &ŽƌŝŶĨŽƌŵĂƟŽŶĞŵĂŝůƵƐĂƚǁŽŽĚƐƚŽĐŬƚĞŶŶŝƐĐůƵďϭϱΛŐŵĂŝů͘ĐŽŵ and eagerly awaited the arrival of their Woodstock Tennis Club ϭϳϬϯ^ĂǁŬŝůůZĚ͘;ŶĞĂƌĞŶĂͿ͕tŽŽĚƐƚŽĐŬ͕Ez “Bartram’s Boxes”: bundles of seeds, saps and specimens shipped from North America, along with the carefully recorded and scientifically astute observations of the collector. His pursuits as an amateur naturalist – a tough sell in that time SHAKESPEARE SUMMER CAMP ◆ As You Like It ◆ Midsummer Nights Dream ◆ Romeo & Juliet 3 age groups, 7-9, 10-13, 14-17 3 two-week camps, July 1 - August 11 Little Globe Outdoor Stage, West Shokan NewGenesisProductions.org 32 • Spring 2019 Explore Hudson Valley and place – were encouraged by no less to nature. The autodidact nuisance to be passed over upon a horse an iconoclast than his Philadelphia farmer Bartram possessed what Evers in between the serious work of church and friend Benjamin Franklin, with whom describes as a childlike wonder and making money (typically via acquisition he would later co-found the American curiosity that did not pass with childhood, and sale of said nature). Philosophical Society. His name was John as they were supposed to, but rather John Bartram was born into a Quaker Bartram, and he played an early, pivotal snowballed into a lifetime of travel and family in Colonial Pennsylvania family in role in the scientific history of the Catskill field study. Mountains. In those days, an all-consuming By the account of the great Catskill fascination with plants and animals was The aristocrats eagerly historian Alf Evers, the early American not an easy trait to maintain or defend in botanist, naturalist and explorer John an adult. Nature, Evers tells us, held little awaited the arrival of Bartram represented a new kind of man allure for the serious 18th-century Colonial their “Bartram’s Boxes”: in the America of the mid-18th century man. It was not a vast and terrible mystery and embodied a new sense of relationship to be explored, but rather a pest-filled bundles of seeds, saps Kids’ camps & education and specimens shipped from North America GREAT SUMMER PROGRAMS FOR KIDS OF ALL AGES Olympic sized indoor arena 1699. The child had no formal education Climate Controlled viewing area beyond the local school. He indulged no pretense and regarded himself as a Y simple farmer, albeit one in the grips of a Riding Lessons fascination with the physician’s profession, Theraputic Riding for Children and Adults medicine and medicinal plants. He read widely in scientific literature and [email protected] | Esopus, NY | (845) 384-6424 dedicated a small area of his family www.horsesforachange.org | froghollowfarmstables.com farm to his experiments. Apparently, he was precocious enough as an amateur botanist to make the acquaintance and KIWANIS ICE ARENA capture the attention of men like Franklin Open 7 days a week with various times for public skating and chief justice of Pennsylvania James Logan: himself a serious man with a Public Open Skating Admissions curious sideline interest in describing $6 for Adults, $4 for Children 6-18, Children 5 & Under are Free. the sex life of Indian corn. The amateur Public Drop In Hockey/Sticks & Pucks $8 for Adults, $6 for Children man of science, the serious dabbler, was Skate Rentals - $3 a pair. Hockey and Figure Skates available. common among the upper classes in Skate Sharpening - $5 a pair Enlightenment Europe, but was a rare and more idiosyncratic breed in the Colonies, Visit our website for the skate times where commerce and religion organized for every public session BIRTHDAY PARTIES • PRO SHOP WOODSTOCK 845-247-2590 | kiwanisicearena.com | 6 Small World Ave, Saugerties SUMMER STAGE Byrdcliffe Barn Peter Pan and the Neverland Band Drama & Music Camp Ages 5-15. Fri show at 3pm. Mon-Fri June 24-28, 2019. Register online ediesfairytaletheatre.com (314) 797-9242 Explore Hudson Valley Spring 2019 • 33 life with an iron fist. a 12-year period beginning in the early of Gilead would turn out to be a false And Bartram may never have enjoyed 1740s. While Collinson’s coveted balm grail of sorts (its seeds were prohibitively the opportunity to make his name as an unlikely hero of science, had he not discovered some fertile commercial Kids’ camps & education applications for his passion via his association with an English woolens SNAPOLOGY merchant named Peter Collinson. A LEGO SUMMER CAMPS successful importer/exporter as well as an awestruck naturalist, Collinson found REGISTRATION IS OPEN! a perfect transcontinental partner in Tons of new camp options, including fun Bartram. It was Collinson who drove themes, robotics, movie-making and more. Bartram to collect both his seeds and his midhudson.snapology.com botanical and horticultural observations 845-255-1318 and send them to England to feed the growing art of landscape gardening, in which gardens that resembled idealized scenes found in nature had begun to replace the formal and orderly grid of the traditional British garden. In wealthy British eccentrics, Collinson and Bartram Summer found a hungry market for Bartram’s exotic botanical materials. It was Collinson who steered Bartram Programs to the Catskills, though he did not call them by that name, referring to the area Residential Programs for High School Students instead as the region of “Hudson’s river.” Why the Catskills? Among the British landscape designers of the day, there was particular, almost mythic interest in the balm of Gilead tree, and the Catskills was thought to contain a motherlode of the species. At Collinson’s prodding, Bartram made a number of ventures to the Catskills over

Make this a summer to remember

ACADEMIC INSTITUTES Art Portfolio Preparation for College Bound Artists Astronomy Ceramic & Glass Engineering Computer SPRING FAIRE Creative Writing AT PRIMROSE HILL SCHOOL SATURDAY, MAY 4TH, 11AM-4PM Drones Robotics Maypole Dancing • Food Crafts • Baby Bunnies • Games SPORTS CAMPS Jump Rope Making • Music Equestrian – English & Western Screen Printing • Face Painting Swimming Earth Oven Bread Baking Join us for a special vist with an owl and an eagle at 3pm! Alfred University Summer Programs 1 Saxon Drive, Alfred, NY 14802 · 607-871-2612 23 Spring Brook Park, Rhinebeck, NY primrosehillschool.com • (845) 876-1226 www.alfred.edu/about/community/summer-programs/ 34 • Spring 2019 Explore Hudson Valley difficult to acquire and did not fare well was his 14-year-old son William, a youth region: nine densely packed pages in his when planted in English soil), Bartram’s who shared his father’s fascinations and journal under the heading “Observations insatiable curiosity regarding North went on to become a historically significant American trees and plants and the nature writer and illustrator, whose book of geological formations made his time in Bartram’s Travels had a direct influence Bartram’s Travels the Catskills supremely productive and upon the Romantic poetry of Wordsworth had a direct infl uence historically significant. and Coleridge. The motivation for this trip Bartram’s final trip to the Catskills took was once again Collinson’s lust for balm of upon the Romantic place in the late summer of 1753: “A journey Gilead, which was once again frustrated. to ye Cats Kill Mountains with Billy,” he But when the Bartrams returned home, poetry of Wordsworth wrote in his journal. The Billy referenced John at once wrote an account of the and Coleridge. Shopping on ye Katts Kill Mountains,” which Alf Ever identifies as “the first account of the mountains from the point of view of a naturalist,” and an influential document

KITCHEN, TABLEWARE, LINENS & GREAT GIFTS until this day. John Bartram traveled extensively through the Colonies, eventually becoming the appointed “king’s botanist” for North America. He discovered and characterized

Tillson Bird Watchers Country Store 852b Rte. 32 Tillson, NY Celebrating 60 years!!! 845.332.9525 Open: Tuesday - Saturday 10am - 6pm Stop in to see our six rooms Beautify your garden with a of kitchenware, table settings & special birdhouse, bird bath flatware, home furnishings, bath & or hummingbird feeder. Located @The Gilded Carriage table linens, toys, candles, picnic WE HAVE A GREAT SELECTION! baskets, outdoor furniture & 95 Tinker Street ~ Woodstock, NY 845-679-8137 Bird Seed • Feeders • Houses • Baffles lots of gifts. Wedding Registry www.gildedcarriage.com Bat Houses • Shepherds Hooks & free gift wrapping Puzzles • Games • Notecards Dining, Lounge, Garden & Poolside Furnishings 95 Tinker St ~ Woodstock, NY Hammocks, Umbrellas, Custom Cushions 845-679-2607 Teak ~ Wicker ~ Stainless Steel We make house calls! “Think Spring!”

The largest selection of contemporary crafts in the Hudson Valley Representing over 500 crafts people Crafts People

An incredible selection of 334 WALL STREET jewelry, pottery, toys, blown glass, KINGSTON, NEW YORK 12401 turned wood, chimes... HUNDREDS OF NEW 845-338-8100 BEAUTIFUL HANDCRAFTS! In the Heart of Uptown Kingston Now Open Friday, Saturday, Sunday, Monday 10:30 am – 6:00 pm GIFTS • JEWELRY • CLOTHING 262 Spillway Rd., West Hurley NY 12491 FASHION ACCESSORIES www.craftspeople.us 845-331-3859 SWELL STUFF Explore Hudson Valley Spring 2019 • 35 a wide range of North American shrubs Native Plant Tour of the Catskills,” led Center (in Haines Falls) to park and and trees, including kalmia, rhododendron by Carol Woodin, on Saturday, June arrange carpooling to North/South Lake. and magnolia species. He is also recognized 29. Beginning with a lecture, Woodin There, Woodin, Paul Harwood and Robert as the first to bring the Venus flytrap to will tell the fascinating history of the Gildersleeve will lead the group on a walk cultivation. Some just call him “the father Bartrams and their travels throughout in the footsteps of the Bartrams, following of American botany.” the Northeast and in the Catskills. After the same journal entries used by Alf The Mountain Top Historical Society the lecture, participants will proceed to the Evers. Admission costs $10 and is free for presents “In the Footsteps of John Bartram: Mountain Top Historical Society Visitor Mountain Top Arboretum and Mountain Shopping

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6 North Front Street, New Paltz 845-255-6277 handmadeandmore.com Open 7 Days 36 • Spring 2019 Explore Hudson Valley Health Top Historical Society Members. For more information, visit www.mths.org. – John Burdick

VISIONEXCEL “Mighty Hudson” eye care concert at Bardavon

...WHERE EYEWEAR IS AN ART! The Bardavon presents the Hudson Val- ley Philharmonic performing “The Mighty Hudson” on Saturday, May 4. This novel program features compositions inspired by the Hudson River and accompanied by filmmaker and adventurer Jon Bowermas- We will frame your face with ter’s stunning visual projections. The HVP will perform Bernstein’s Symphonic Suite Great Eye Wear! from On the Waterfront, Francis Thorne’s Symphony No. 7: Along the Hudson and from Austria, England, works by Corigliano, Britten and Men- France, Italy or delssohn. the Good ol’ USA. “The Mighty Hudson,” Saturday, May 4, 8 p.m., $20-$57, Bardavon 1869 Opera 1636 Ulster Avenue, Lake Katrine, NY 12449 House, 35 Market St., Poughkeepsie, (845) 336-6310 www.visionexceleyecare.com (845) 473-2072, www.bardavon.org DISPOSABLE NEEDLES USED • STERIL E Gardiner Cupcake Welcome Dr. Anita Dormer, M.D.

Medical Aesthetics Regenerative Medicine EQUIPMENT Festival & 5K race We exclusively offer Dr. Anita’s skin care line For appointment or more info, go to www.DrAnitaMedicalAesthtics.com Gardiner’s traditional Cupcake Festival and COMPUTERIZED PROCEDURE • FREE CONSULTATION its companion Cupcake Classic 5K race GIFT CERTIFICATES AVAILABLE set up shop at Wright’s Farm on Saturday, 845.876.4878 May 18. The event, which was first held in 2009, is a day full of cupcakes, food, Ann Lombardozzi, C.P.E. • Michelle Lombardozzi-Strollo music, local vendors, local wine-tastings 22 East Market Street, #201, Rhinebeck www.anneselectrolysis.com and activities for children. The first three Permanent years the festival was held on Main Street Hair Removal ANNE’S ELECTROLYSIS in Gardiner, but moved seven years ago to Wright’s Farm, a much larger venue, to al- low for more cupcakes and fun. This year, there will be more than 10,000 cupcakes to choose from. Kicking off the festival is the Gardiner 5K Cupcake Classic, a run through the beautiful apple and peach gardiner ny stonewavehudsonvalley.com restore & renew orchards of Wright’s Farm, with spec- tacular views of the . Walkers, strollers and dogs are welcome. All participants who sign up before May 8 will receive a tee-shirt, a fresh apple from Wright’s Farm and a cupcake at the finish. Race time is 11 a.m. The Cupcake Festival begins at 1 p.m.

Gardiner Cupcake Festival & 5K race, Sat., May 18, 1-5 p.m., Wright’s Farm, 699 Rt. 208, Gardiner, https://gardinercupcakefestival.com Explore Hudson Valley Spring 2019 • 37

PHOTOS COURTESY OF JOHN HAZARD Having previously created large-scale images of Elvis, Einstein, the and in a fi eld in Ellenville by expertly manipulating a lawnmower, Roger Baker fi red up his push-mower by Sandburg Creek and began crafting Beethoven’s eyes in May 2016. The completed drawing on the living canvas of grass culminated in a series of performances of Beethoven’s music held on-site. Days later, as the grass grew and the dark and light areas melded together, the image vanished. It lives on in John Hazard’s new fi lm. Field notes Baker Does Beethoven – with a lawnmower

Lynn Woods into a field and have a piano on his lapel.” his mind, he then fired up his push-mower Having previously created large-scale and began with the composer’s eyes, which t started with a recording of images of Elvis, Einstein, the Statue of pupil-to-pupil measured 70 feet across. pianist Rudolf Serkin playing Bee- Liberty and Jimi Hendrix in a field in Over a period of a few weeks, he used thoven. Roger Baker discovered the Ellenville by expertly manipulating a the mower, along with a zero-turn riding I record in a box of his old albums, lawnmower, Baker was uniquely qualified mower and six-foot brush hog attached to and it became a favorite as he played to fulfill that farfetched vision. So, back in the back of a tractor, to fill in the rest of a particular movement over and over May of 2016, he took his toned drawing the image, finishing up at the far edges of again on a turntable in his rustic studio of Beethoven, gridded it, and at a scale the field with looser strokes for the hair. in Cragsmoor. “I got energy from it and of one-half-inch-to-ten-feet, transposed “I start doing this dance and let go of any started to draw,” he says in John Haz- portions of the grid onto a 25-acre field plan,” he says in the film, as the footage ard’s new film, Baker Does Beethoven, and made some marks on the grass with shows him zooming around on the trac- adding “I would love to cut Beethoven yellow paint. Working out the pattern in tor. “I don’t know if it looks ridiculous or 38 • Spring 2019 Explore Hudson Valley

Roger Baker has become something of a local celebrity, featured on PBS and in The New York Times for his Beethoven portrait. Baker Does Beethoven could broaden that reach, if fi lmmaker John Hazard is able to get it out there. Hazard hopes to have the fi lm streamed eventually, and plans to approach other venues, as well as PBS and fi lm festivals for future screenings. great, but I just am vulnerable with it. The more I think I have a handle on this, the less I do.” The completed drawing on the living canvas of grass culminated in a series of performances of Beethoven’s music held on-site. Days later, as the grass grew and the dark and light areas melded together, the image vanished. But fortunately, Haz- ard was there with his camera throughout the process, taking footage that ultimately resulted in a 50-minute film. It beautifully memorializes the making of the piece, Baker’s soul-filled ruminations and the performances, which include harpist Vic- toria Drake playing the Piano Sonata No. 14 in C# minor as the rising moon shines Artist Roger Baker fi rst came to the Ellenville area 25 years ago to hang-glide. through the strings of her instrument and the Ellenville Middle School Fortissimos Peru with anthropologist Jeremy Narby Drone photographer Ben Carson cap- singing the “Ode to Joy” from Beethoven’s to film an ancient music festival of the tures the image from above, which has the Ninth Symphony. Baker Does Beethoven indigenous Awajun people for a short graphic quality of a Warhol and is not rec- lends the subject a lyricism of its own. titled Woodstock in the . Baker ognizable from the ground. In one magical Hazard, a Wawarsing-based cinematog- Does Beethoven is the first film that he sequence, the drone camera captures the rapher, has traveled the world working also directed and edited. It premiered piano from far above: a dark speck on on projects, including Secrets of Egypt’s at Shadowland Stages in Ellenville this the green-patterned field that becomes Lost Queen, which was shot in the tomb spring to enthusiastic audiences, and will recognizable as the drone zooms in and of a female pharaoh whose mummy had be shown again sometime over the sum- hovers sideways as pianist Akiko Sasaki just been identified by scientists, the first mer at the Stone Church in Cragsmoor. plays Beethoven; Hazard slows down the royal identification since King Tut; he Hazard hopes to have the film streamed speed as he cuts to her face and hands as also shot extensive footage of the Clash eventually, and plans to approach other she finishes the piece with a flourish. The back in the early 1980s, and traveled to venues, as well as PBS and film festivals. work by recording engineer Steve Bill, Explore Hudson Valley Spring 2019 • 39 who also has a house in the area, ensures excellent acoustics, despite the challenge HUMMINGBIRD of playing on a platform in a field. The film evolved naturally. “I met Roger JEWELERS 10 or 12 years ago. Anyone who gets to know Roger finds it’s the easiest thing in the world to say, ‘Yes, I will help you,”” says Hazard. “We had no money [to make the film] – just enthusiasm and a willingness to do it.” After Baker asked Hazard if he could shoot some video of his Beethoven project, “I found it pretty easy to show up and shoot…This was a project where I could make a 6 a.m. call and still sleep in my bed. I just kept showing up.” Hazard

“I would love to cut locally a little north of here, on the fi elds of the Farm Hub,” Baker said. “I would WHERE JEWELRY IS FINE ART love to push a piano onto DESIGNER JEWELRY FROM AROUND THE WORLD a fi eld near Kingston 23A EAST MARKET ST. RHINEBECK NY and do Chopin.” (845) 876-4585 HUMMINGBIRDJEWELERS.COM notes that Baker was a natural subject for the camera, with “his loose and easy natural repertoires, his ability to talk about what he does and play with it, the crazy riffs about quantum mechanics. He reads going to sleep at night.” Baker, whose commissioned murals and artworks grace several local businesses, first came to the Ellenville area 25 years ago to hang-glide. When he was in his early 20s, he traveled the country as an itinerant artist and hang-glider, stashing his equipment on the roof of his car and bringing along his dog and brushes. “I’d walk into a town and go to a local fire- house and tell the fire chief, ‘I’m in town and not flying today and can touch up the gold leaf on your firetrucks’” – a task that would inevitably lead to paid work. Connecting with others and nurturing community still comes as second nature to him: “I hang out in shops where people make and build stuff. It’s a network where you get invited in. If I have a flat tire, I could make a phone call and three people would come over.” He and the fellow members of his hang- gliding club would aim for a bull’s-eye mown into the grass of the field when 40 • Spring 2019 Explore Hudson Valley

they landed. As he recounts in the film, Taste one day a member cut the grass in a way that eliminated the target, which left a “clean slate” and inspired him to create an image of the Statue of Liberty, for the Fourth of July. That was back in 2000. Working from numerous drawings, “I settled on one and we cut it, working off a central point…Once you get the refer- ence for the face, the rest is pretty easy.” Amazingly, six or seven months later he discovered a satellite image of the piece in reverse; though the cuts were no longer visible, the infrared photography from the satellite had picked up the differences in temperature from the higher and lower patterned segments of grass. The monumental grass portraits were mown on fields owned by Kelly’s Farm, Ferncliff Forest south of Ellenville. They were located on the east side of Sandburg Creek and visible Rhinebeck’sRhi b k’ numberb one fttfree attraction, from a nearby overlook, which gave people offering an amazing view of Hudson a viewing spot. Plus, “People took their Valley from our Observation Tower. own airplanes [to the field]. The last day I was cutting Elvis, there were 36 airplanes Enjoy hiking, picnics, camping or just circling it.” Beethoven was located on the walk your dog in our wonderful 200 other side of the creek and hence not visible acre Forest Preserve. from the overlook, although it was the first piece to be photographed using a drone. Open all year Baker has become something of a local 68 Mount Rutsen Rd., Rhinebeck, NY celebrity, featured on PBS and in The New York Times for his Beethoven portrait. Baker Does Beethoven, which utilizes 845-876-3196 for additional information archival footage from a film of earlier ferncliffforest.org projects by Gary Planken, could broaden that reach, if Hazard is able to get it out there; his cinematic instincts, which transform a man riding a lawnmower into a subject of fascination (no mean feat), and poetic rhythms in matching sound to image make that likely. Hazard says that he was able to edit the film himself due to fortuitous timing: Just previous to the project, he was hired to make a film about the Ellenville Regional Hospital’s 50th anniversary, which provided him with the editing software and platform. But as spring arrives, it seems that Baker’s mostly thinking about grass. The success of his pieces is partly due to his timing Romantic Lake View Suite and sensitivity to the nuances of weather, such as how a day of sunshine will dry out nestled next to a waterfall on the shores of Lake Wawaka the low-cut grass, turning it blond, while Kayaks, Stand Up Paddle Boards, Canoes, Hiking Trails, Picnic Area, the taller grass casts shadows, darkening Crystals, Minerals, and a Swimming Hole. it. He has his eye on the Hurley Flats: “I Reserve Early We have enough watercraft to host your entire party! Call to make would love to cut locally a little north of for Reservations for here, on the fields of the Farm Hub,” he Memorial Day Susan's Pleasant Pheasant Farm May Kayaking 1 Bragg Hollow Rd., Halcottsville, NY 12438 said. “I would love to push a piano onto a KayakingintheCatskills.com 607 326 4266 [email protected] field near Kingston and do Chopin.” ♦ Explore Hudson Valley Spring 2019 • 41 Arnold Guyot’s Taste Catskills legacy STORMVILLE AIRPORT FLEA MARKET FLEA MARKET Over 600 Exhibitors ULTIMATE YARD SALE April 27 & 28 • May 25 & 26 Exhibitor Space Available 300 Families • Sat. Only July 6 & 7 • August 31 & Sept. 1 Free Admission & Parking June 14 • Sept. 14 Oct. 12 & 13 • Nov. 2 & 3 9 am - 3 pm Rain or Shine 8 am - 4 pm Rain or Shine No Pets 845-226-1660 FOOD TRUCK & CRAFT BEER FESTIVAL – JUNE 8TH • 11AM–6PM 428 Rt. 216, Stormville, NY • www.stormvilleairportfleamarket.com • 845-221-6561

will lytle Pop quiz: what do the following have in common? Mt. Guyot in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, Mt. Guyot in the Great Smoky Mountains, Mt. Guyot in the Colorado Rockies, the for Guyot Glacier in southeastern Alaska,

Come Out and Play at spring leisure !

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EXPLORE THE POWER OF THE PAST! “guyots” (flat-top volcanic peaks com- mon on the ocean floor), the Guyot cra- Take a guided tour of an historic water- and steam-powered ter on the Moon, Guyot Hall at - sawmill, gristmill and woodworking shop in the Catskills. ton University and Guyot Hill on the Mohonk Preserve? Beginning May 15, Hanford Mills is open Wednesday-Sundays, Tough one, I know. The Swiss geolo- 10-5. Last tour of the day begins at 3:30 pm. gist Arnold Guyot left his mark, and his Kids 12 & under always receive free admission. name, all over the world and beyond; but May 15: Opening Day live music, and free ice cream made on a Mohonk and the Catskills held a special May 25, June 15, July 20, August 10: churn chilled with ice from February’s place in the brilliant and ambulatory Free Family Saturdays Ice Harvest Festival. scientist’s heart. He, in turn, did more to July 4: Independence Day Sept. 7: Dan Rion Memorial help us understand the nature and scope Celebration: kids’ fishing derby, frog Antique Engine Jamboree jumping contests, steam-power demonstrations, Oct. 5: Woodsmen’s Festival HANFORD MILLS MUSEUM Funny that the only 51 COUNTY HWY 12, EAST MEREDITH, NY regional spot named HANFORDMILLS.ORG • 607-278-5744 for the man who shaped our conception of the sunflowerartstudios.community Catskills is Guyot Hill in New Paltz, on the Mohonk Preserve CREATIVE KIDS in the Shawangunks.     of the Catskills than just about anyone     else in the region’s history. Born at Bouldervilliers near Neuchatel y    in Switzerland, Guyot was an established  academic at the Academy of Neuchatel and may never have begun his wander- ing ways had not the Academy closed its doors in 1848. Guyot was close friends with Louis Agassiz, and it was the eminent biologist and geologist who encouraged Guyot to seek work in the US. After giving a successful series of lectures titled “The Earth and Man” at the Lowell Institute in Boston (which became the basis for a textbook that remained in print until the 1970s), Guyot was appointed professor of Geology and Physical Geography at Princeton. His academic achievements were formidable and many: He founded the Princeton Museum of Natural History; his meteorological work was indispens- able to modern weather forecasting and led directly to the foundation of the US Weather Bureau (and is the reason why weather measurements have been done like clockwork at Mohonk since time immemorial). He published numerous books and maps. And back to the matter at hand, Arnold Guyot was an obsessive Explore Hudson Valley Spring 2019 • 43

DION OGUST Guyot’s map of the Catskills radically redefi ned the physical and cultural understanding of the region. Before his work, the mountain known as High Peak was unanimously considered the highest in the range, and the region of the (where the North/South Lake campground is today) was generally thought to be the only part of the Catskills of real natural and cultural interest – a misconception that the House owners had no interest in changing. Guyot set everyone straight, demoting High Peak, ultimately, to merely the 23rd-highest summit in the range and calling attention the natural treasures of Slide Mountain and the areas of the Catskills to the south and west. mapper and measurer of mountains, though the original physical descriptions top, on foot, of all 35. In addition – just producing cutting-edge topographies of had been more apt – but Guyot’s obsessive to make your task a little more interesting the Appalachian range and of his beloved measuring, characterizing and naming of – you have to climb four specified peaks – mostly, according to peaks made the Catskills a more coherent, a second time in winter conditions, the great Catskill historian Alf Evers, by inclusive and approachable place. between December 21 and March 21: hiking an awful lot, year after year. Funny that the only regional spot named Slide, , Panther and Balsam. Guyot’s map of the Catskills radically for the man who shaped our conception In the early years of the 3500 Club, redefined the physical and cultural under- of the Catskills is Guyot Hill in New Paltz, you had to prove your worthiness by standing of the region. Before his work, in the Shawangunks, on the Mohonk signing a notebook stored in a canister the Mountain known as High Peak was Preserve by the golf course. Predictably, near the summit of each of the qualifying unanimously considered the highest in Guyot loved Mohonk and was a frequent mountains. The presence of the canisters the range, and the region of the Catskill guest. In 1884, the legendary scientist – originally coffee cans painted orange Mountain House (where the North/South described Mohonk in a way that still nails – eventually became controversial as Lake campground is today) was generally its essence and its allure: “Few spots on visually intrusive, given the organization’s thought to be the only part of the Catskills our continent unite so much beauty of emphasis on a Leave No Trace wilderness of real natural and cultural interest – a scenery, both grand and lovely, within so ethic. The only Canister officially endorsed misconception that the House owners small a compass, to be enjoyed with so by the group anymore is the newsletter by had no interest in changing. much ease.” that name that it publishes online on a Guyot set everyone straight, demoting – John Burdick quarterly basis, giving updates on club High Peak, ultimately, to merely the 23rd- activities and the schedule for upcoming highest summit in the range and calling Catskill 3500 Club hikes. attention the natural treasures of Slide Nowadays the qualification test is less Mountain and the areas of the Catskills organizes hikes for the stringent: Aspiring members print out to the south and west, centered on what is hardy every weekend a tally sheet that they take with them today the Shandaken Wild Forest. Guyot’s on their forays, logging in the dates of map of the Catskills was published in the their ascents of each peak along with American Journal of Science in 1880, and he Catskills aren’t the tall- notes on the day’s weather conditions, after that, his enlarged and inclusive con- est mountains on our planet, observations, other hikers encountered ception of the region gained immediate or even in the Northeast US. and so on. When this list is complete, it’s acceptance among travel and guidebook T But with 35 of them exceeding signed and submitted to club officers, writers and thought leaders. 3,500 feet at the summit and two, Slide along with a nominal $5 application Guyot was also responsible for sorting and Hunter, topping out above 4,000, fee. For $10 per year you can become an out the naming of the Catskills as well, they present enough of a challenge to keep “Aspirant” or provisional member and which, until his time, had been a morass of avid hikers busy for much of a lifetime. subscribe to the newsletter while working uncertainty, multiple names and general If you want to become a member of on making your 35 + 4. chaos. Perhaps his solution to the Round the Catskill 3500 Club, a social circle of Arguably, you could cheat to get in; but Top/High Peak mountain problem was the region’s most elite and determined your fellow members would quickly spot a inelegant – swapping their names because hiker/climbers, here’s all you have to do: greenhorn at any of their gatherings. Much Round Top was actually higher, even Demonstrate that you’ve made it to the of the organization’s energy is expended on 44 • Spring 2019 Explore Hudson Valley educating hikers that the Catskills are not to GPS (plus spare batteries), it’s advisable to be taken lightly. It promulgates a long list of carry a compass as well, and to know how safety standards, urging the summit-bound to use it. The art of orienteering is one of to prepare carefully for all expeditions, the skillsets that a seasoned Catskills hiker including wearing appropriate layered is supposed to learn. clothing and carrying gear that will help you The late Bill and Kay Spangenberger, survive an overnight in the woods if you get the hardy outdoorspeople who conceived stuck. Weather conditions at high altitudes of the club (both lived to be centenarians),

DION OGUST The late Bill and Kay Spangenberger, the hardy outdoorspeople who conceived of the club (both lived Elinore and Bill Leavitt becoming the first two in April 1963. The club was legally to be centenarians), were already well on their way chartered on January 1, 1966. It was also in the late ’60s that the club to qualifying when they came up with the idea in 1949. took on the responsibility of maintaining a section of the in the Catskills over Peekamoose and Table Mountains. All members are encouraged to participate can change rapidly and unpredictably, with were already well on their way to qualifying in volunteer trail stewardship, and many death by hypothermia a genuine threat in when they came up with the idea in 1949, visit Albany for an annual lobbying day in the Catskills even during the non-winter inspired by the Forty-Sixers support of the . months – especially if your clothing gets Club. Brad Whiting, then chair of the local Now that it has a website – http:// wet. Hiking with a buddy, letting someone chapter of the Adirondack Mountain Club, catskill-3500-club.org – the Catskill else know where you’ve gone and when got a similar brainwave in 1962, spurring 3500 Club serves as a useful resource you should be back, packing ample water, the Spangenbergers to bring their dream for anyone interested in hiking these trail food and a first aid kit are all strongly to reality. Dan Smiley offered to host the mountains, even if you’re not a compulsive recommended. club’s first meeting in November 1962 at peak-bagger. There you can find listings Only the truly committed make it to the the Mohonk Mountain House. Dorothy of upcoming outings organized and led top of all 35 of the highest Catskills. For Whiting, the Vassar College Outing Club’s by club members, of which there’s usually ten of them, “on foot” is the only way of Nancy Locke and IBMer Gunter Hauptman at least one per weekend year-round, getting there short of a helicopter drop, as were also among the founders. In his field and often more. You’re not required to they don’t even have trails. In fact, part of studies of the Bicknell’s thrush and its be a member or Aspirant to go on one the 3500 Club’s mission is to advocate that habitat – balsam fir found above 3,500 of these hikes, though you’ll be expected some of these mountains remain trailless feet – Smiley had already compiled a list of to preregister with trip leaders and be wilderness permanently. Topographical peaks to serve as the group’s Holy Grail. adequately prepared for the terrain and maps are a must in bushwhacking “Charter member” status was offered conditions. your way to tick off these ten toughest to anyone who made all the required – Frances Marion Platt checkboxes. And even if you have a good summits by 1965, and 27 people qualified,

All for one.

Visit Hudson Valley One and read the best of what Ulster Publishing has to offer. Check it out at: hudsonvalleyone.com. Explore Hudson Valley Spring 2019 • 45

dion ogust Considered by many to be the jewel of the Hudson River bridges, the Mid-Hudson Bridge was created by the famous bridge designer Ralph Modjeski. Bridges not too far A brief history of the spans that unite us

John Burdick character and destiny. For the better part design and construction, as numerous of two centuries, bridge-building repre- vested parties (and their sometimes-vo- ach of the six bridges that sented the absolute cutting edge of en- ciferous opponents) played a role in each cross the Hudson in our read- gineering technology and modern con- bridge’s lengthy and complicated birth. ership – from the Bear Moun- struction processes. Bridges were vast A single bridge could alter the course E tain Bridge in the south to the infrastructural undertakings with enor- of an entire industry (locomotive and to the north – has mous implications, and their financing ferries, for example). The impact and its own complex story rife with conflict, was no less complex and risky than their repercussions of a new bridge extended 46 • Spring 2019 Explore Hudson Valley

DION OGUST The fi nancing of the Rip Van Winkle Bridge is considered by many to be an innovative precursor of FDR’s New Deal economic systems. far beyond the neighboring communities Cuomo Tappan Zee Bridge was completed that were invariably transformed by it; a in 2017, the most recent action across the bridge across the Hudson could affect the river was the addition of the second span freight and travel patterns of the entire of the Hamilton Fish Newburgh-Beacon Eastern Seaboard, with implications na- Bridge in 1980. tionwide. On the local level, each bridge Among the five automotive bridges in had a radical impact upon population, our region, all of which are managed by development, business and work, tour- the New York State Bridge Authority ism, natural aesthetics, the patterns of (NYSBA), three of the major types of daily life and more. In this light, each bridges are represented: cantilever (Rip WILL DENDIS bridge probably deserves a book of its Van Winkle, Newburgh-Beacon); suspen- The great Poughkeepsie Railway own, but historian Kathryn W. Burke’s sion (Bear Mountain, Mid-Hudson) and Bridge was begun in 1873, long richly illustrated Hudson River Bridges truss (Kingston-Rhinecliff). While these delayed because of an economic is a good place to start. automotive bridges were all 20th-century depression, and opened for use The building of the majestic and archi- constructs built over a 40-year period, in 1889. It began its new life as tecturally diverse Hudson automotive the proof-of-concept original span came in 2009. spans (ten all together) came in two great much earlier. waves. In a hectic and, one would assume, road. After 85 years of continuous use, it loud period of just over a decade, 1924 to Poughkeepsie Railway Bridge closed after being seriously damaged by 1935, the first five spans were built. After a An extension of the post-Civil War a fire on May 8, 1974. Kathryn W. Burke 20-year calm (and a really big war), major building and infrastructure boom in notes that, had it not been for mainte- changes in population, technology and the US, the great Poughkeepsie Railway nance cutbacks that eliminated the job business sparked the second great wave Bridge was begun in 1873, long delayed of the trackwalker, the fire might have of bridge construction: four of them in because of an economic depression, fi- been detected and extinguished before it an eight-year period between 1955 and nally resumed in 1886 and opened for caused significant damage. The Pough- 1963. Since then, things have been mostly use on January 1, 1889 as part of the keepsie Railway Bridge was listed on the quiet. Before the new $4 billion Mario M. Maybrook line of the New Haven Rail- National Register of Historic Places in Explore Hudson Valley Spring 2019 • 47

1979 and reopened as the centerpiece on the Highland side as well, in 1967. unique claims to fame are its high-tech, of the Walkway over the Hudson State Among the Mid-Hudson Bridge’s several multicolored LED “necklace” installed in Historic Park on October 3, 2009. Perfect Light. Perhaps the most curious and unusual of all the Hudson River bridges, the quaint For and comparatively remote Bear Moun- Less. tain Bridge was opened to the public on November 27, 1924. It was built by the Our innovative light-diffusing Bear Mountain Hudson River Bridge window fashions turn harsh rays Company (under the leadership of E. into a soft glow. Roland Harriman) with the express pur- APRIL 13– JUNE 24, 2019 Enjoy this perfect pose of making the popular Bear Moun- light and save with tain State Park more accessible and con- valuable rebates, now ‘til 6/24/19. venient for the tourists who had become numerous enough to choke the nearby hotels and back up the ferries. The bridge was completed rapidly – in less than three years, as per the company’s Silhouette® Window Shadings agreement with the state – and, while the project’s opponents worried that the construction would efface the beauty 667 Route 28 6815 Route 9 of the spectacular Hudson Highlands, Kingston, NY Rhinebeck, NY 845-516-4443 most people finally seemed to agree that 845-338-0800 the bridge was a visual stunner.

The bridge, however, was an economic © 2008-2019 BrandMuscle, Inc. All rights reserved. All trademarks used here in the property of their respective owners. * Manufacturer’s mail-in rebate offer valid for qualifying purchases made 4/13/19 – 6/24/19 from participating dealers in the U.S. only. A qualifying purchase is defined as a purchase of any of the disaster. Tolls were two-way and exor- product models set forth above in the quantities set forth above. If you purchase less than the specified quantity, you will not be entitled to a rebate. Offer excludes HDOrigins™ and Nantucket™ Window Shadings, a collection of Silhouette® Window Shadings. Rebate will be issued in the form of a prepaid reward card and mailed within 4 weeks of rebate claim approval. Funds do not expire. Subject to bitant, and the bridge operated at a loss applicable law, a $2.00 monthly fee will be assessed against card balance 6 months after card issuance and each month thereafter. See complete terms distributed with reward card. Additional limitations may apply. Ask participating dealer for details and rebate form. ©2019 Hunter Douglas. All rights reserved. All trademarks used herein are the property of Hunter Douglas or their respective owners. year after year before being purchased by the New York State Bridge Authority in 1940, nearly 20 years before the state was scheduled to assume ownership. Mid-Hudson Bridge RED H OOK G OLF C LUB Considered by many to be the aesthetic (845) 758-8652 peach of all the Hudson River bridges, the Mid-Hudson Bridge was created 650 Route 199 by the famous bridge designer Ralph Red Hook, NY 12571 Modjeski, who had had his hand in the rehabilitation design of the Poughkeep- • 18 Hole Golf Club sie Railway Bridge years before. In fact, • Memberships Available & that railway bridge had been considered and discarded several times as a candi- Open to the Public date for an additional automotive span. • Foster’s 19th Hole In his acclaimed 1974 book Bridges, photographer Daniel Plowden hails the Restaurant & Bar Mid-Hudson as “one of the very finest • Driving Range & Practice Facilities American suspension bridges.” Construction was begun in 1925 and Reserve your tee time online at halted briefly when a severe tilt developed RHGC.teesnap.net on its east side. It took years to correct the issue with pulleys and dredging, at a rate Conveniently located within 5 miles of 18 inches per day. The bridge opened on of August 25, 1930 in a ceremony attended www.redhookgolfclub.com by then-Governor Franklin D. Roosevelt and his wife, Eleanor. Heavy use and RedHookGolfClub congestion necessitated major traffic pat- tern changes in the east (Poughkeepsie) side in the early 1960s, and eventually 48 • Spring 2019 Explore Hudson Valley

2001, and its use as a musical instrument by composer Joseph Bertolozzi, who re- leased the resulting album, Bridge Music, in 2009.

Rip Van Winkle Bridge A novel project in several respects, the Catskill-to-Hudson Rip Van Winkle Bridge is the only Hudson Valley bridge with a non-descriptive, non-honorific name drawn from the local cultural heritage: ’s famous short story about a man who slept for 20 years in the Catskills, missing the American Revolution and awaking to a transformed world. Additionally, the DION OGUST financing of the bridge is considered The Kingston-Rhinecliff Bridge by many to be an innovative precursor of FDR’s New Deal economic systems. repaid by tolls. Thus did the New York Berkshires. The Rip Van Winkle Bridge Then-Governor Roosevelt vetoed the State Bridge Authority come into exist- opened on July 2, 1935. bridge’s proposed construction budget ence. in 1931, in the depths of the Great De- The primary rationale for the bridge Kingston-Rhinecliff Bridge pression; but, along with his naysay- was the overcrowding of the other two The privately operated Kingston-Rhi- ing, he also suggested the creation of a Hudson crossings, as well as benefits to necliff ferry used by commuting Bard separate state agency to issue bonds to be realized by connecting two popular professors and many others discon- pay for the bridge – bonds that would be natural tourist areas: the Catskills and the tinued service in the height of World War II, in 1942, creating the need that would not be filled by the Kingston- Antiques & auctions Rhinecliff Bridge for another 15 years. Again and again, the project’s advocates $17,48(&(17(5a$8&7,21*$//(5< Noah’s Ark Antiques were tasked with proving the need for RHINEBECK Antiques and Collectibles the bridge, and apparently governor ANTIQUE 7265 South Broadway, Rt. 9, Red Hook, NY 12571 Thomas Dewey was a tough sell. While EMPORIUM appeals and initiatives had begun in the early ’40s, all the necessary signoffs %HWZHHQ5KLQHEHFN +\GH3DUN were not in place until 1949. It would be $OEDQ\3RVW5G another seven years until the Kingston- 6WDDWVEXUJ1< Rhinecliff Bridge opened in the dead of a23(1'$,/<a winter on February 2, 1957. 845-876-8168 The bridge was designed by David ZZZUKLQHEHFNDQWLTXHHPSRULXPFRP (845) 233-5950 Steinman, whose credits include the ¼2)):,7+$'¼ Open Daily 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM Mackinac Bridge in Michigan. Running well over-budget, delayed by a steel shortage and plagued by siting issues and Antique Fair and sudden changes thereof, the Kingston- Rhinecliff may be the problem child of Flea Market the Hudson spans, and, to this writer at May 4th - May 5th, 2019 Village Antique Center August 3rd - 4th, 2019 at Hyde Park at the Washington County Fairgrounds Rte. 29, Greenwich, NY (12 mi. East of Saratoga Springs, NY) $4 admission, $90 - Dealer Spaces Still Available: (65+ $3, under-16 - FREE) FAIRGROUND SHOWS NY Old-Fashioned Antique Show PO Box 528, Delmar, NY 12054 Route 9, between Roosevelt and Vanderbilt Mansions featuring 200+ dealers, free parking, www.fairgroundshows.com great food, and real bathrooms. [email protected] ($10 - Early Buyers - Fridays before show) Ph. 518-331-5004 (845) 229-6600 Explore Hudson Valley Spring 2019 • 49 least, remains the most frightening. It The bridge was originally required to was in fact carrying 25,000 vehicles a day, did, however, directly affect a boom in be four lanes because it was to carry an and traffic jams were a considerable prob- housing development on both sides of Interstate highway, but governor Nelson lem that only worsened when Interstate the river, in communities like Saugerties Rockefeller successfully argued that the 84 was expanded in the 1970s. and Rhinebeck. 25,000-cars-per-day usage estimate was It would take years for the second span inflated and that a two-lane bridge would to be proposed, approved and built and Newburgh-Beacon Bridge suffice. The Newburgh-Beacon Bridge the original four-lane vision realized. The Offering a wide and direct shot from was 12 years in the making, from a bill second span was opened on November New England to middle America and introduced in 1951 to its official opening 1, 1980: almost exactly 17 years after the beyond, the two spans of the Hamilton on November 2, 1963, with Governor first. ♦ Fish Newburgh-Beacon Bridge are, by Rockefeller officiating. By 1964, the bridge a good margin, the NYSBA’s most-traf- ficked bridges, crossed by 25 million ve- Antiques & auctions hicles a year. The newest bridge of the NYSBA has the oldest origins. Its roots go back to Alexander Colden’s official ferry, established in 1743 and patronized by the likes of and RoundR Lake Antiques Festival John Adams in the Revolutionary War Sat,S June 22, 2019 - 8am-6pm years. The Ramsdell family continued to run Colden’s Ferry until 1956, when its Sun,S June 23, 2019 - 9am-5pm operation was taken over by the NYSBA. onon the Village Greens & Parks of Round Lake, NY RAIN OR SHINE (½ mile east of the Adirondack Northway, exit 11) FREE ADMISSION TheThe area’s longest running, For Dealer Info or Early Buyer Info: olold-fashioned Antique FAIRGROUND SHOWS NY SShowh featuring over 150 PO Box 528, Delmar, NY 12054 dealersde selling antiques, toys,toy furniture, glassware, www.fairgroundshows.com architectural,arch jewelry, coins, [email protected] guns,gu and much more. 518-331-5004

Thrift Shop Downstairs: HIDDEN HERE THIS SPRING TREASURES ANTIQUE DEALERS 35 N. Front St., Kingston, NY 331-5439 ON OUR GROUND FLOOR ART • ANTIQUES • BOOKS • COMICS ANTIQUE MARKET COLLECTIBLES • DVDS • ELECTRONICS FURNITURE • HOUSEWARES • JEWELRY LIGHTING • MEMORABILIA • SILVER RECORDS • RUGS • TOYS • AND MUCH MORE OverOveO r 3300 DDealerseallers

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with little “LP” signs designating them the Long Trail in Vermont. Schaefer en- Long Path connects as part of the Long Path. This is a net- visioned the Long Path as meandering, many NY parks & forests work of mostly preexisting trails, with unmarked, from the George Washing- a few sections still consisting of road- ton Bridge to in ways, that has been gradually cobbled the Adirondacks, connecting together If you’re a regular hiker in the Sha- together since Vincent J. Schaefer of a series of landmarks. Beginning in the wangunks or Catskills, you’ve probably Schenectady first proposed that New 1960s, the New York/New Jersey Trail found yourself at times on trails blazed York establish a hiking route similar to Conference took that vision a step fur- ther by creating a blazed hiking trail along Schaefer’s route. Farm fresh Today the Long Path is a 358-mile hiking trail extending from the 175th Street Subway Station in Manhattan, The New Corn Crib Greenhouse across the in New Jersey, then following the Palisades #*&!%*%'"&+ "')!/     /* %-&(%(! (% &+)&$ north until it crosses back into New York State in Rockland County. En route to its current terminus in John Boyd Thacher Park near Albany, the LP traverses Hook )&%#,&(!*)0%%+#)0(%%!#)0 *#)0()0 (+) Mountain, High Tor and Harriman and (%!% +''#!)0&**(.0!(.(%+''#!)0!*( %!)0%&( Schunemunk Mountain State Parks, then connects with the Orange County #     "  Heritage Trail and the Shawangunk Ridge Trail, passing Verkeerderkill Falls as it enters Minnewaska State Park. Beyond the Gunks, it passes through the Rondout Valley to spend its next 100 miles crossing the Catskill Park, climbing  ǒ Ǔ      !     nine of the major peaks including Slide

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April 27th 9 – 3 FREE Admission! Explore Hudson Valley Spring 2019 • 51

Mountain. Northward, the LP follows toward Buffalo, the Erie Canalway Trail the Schoharie Valley through Mine Kill will largely follow off-road routes along Falls State Park and the Blenheim-Gilboa the canal corridor that already exist. Visitors’ Center of the New York State Some major segments are proposed Power Authority, ascends Vroman’s to follow roadways open to automobile Nose, then turns east to finish its run traffic, with one of the longest of these with visits to the Partridge Run Wildlife connecting the cities of Kingston and Management Area, State Hudson. Stay tuned to see this project Forest, and develop at www.ny.gov/programs/empire- Indian Ladder Trail. Future plans are state-trail, and view the map at https:// to extend the trail to the on.ny.gov/2ZkJUVI. and eventually into the Adirondacks, and work is continuing to move the trail from 150 years of theater, the roads. Like a much-less-ambitious version music & fi lm history of the Appalachian Trail, the Long Path at the Bardavon is a lure to through-hikers, known here as End-to-Enders. More commonly, people bite off one chunk of the trail at The festivities go on all through 2019 as a time. However you choose to approach the Bardavon marks its 150th anniver- it, you can find maps and plenty of other sary as the oldest continuously operat- helpful information on the NY/NJ Trail ing theater in New York State. Designed COURTESY OF THE BARDAVON Conference website at www.nynjtc.org/ by eminent local architect J. A. Wood region/long-path. and opened to the public on February (Top) View of the Bardavon marquee 1, 1869, the Collingwood Opera House and Market Street in Poughkeepsie in 1926. (Bottom) Inside the Coming soon: was a late addition to an office building that British-born entrepreneur James Bardavon Opera House the Empire State Trail Collingwood had built in 1864 on the site of a coal and lumberyard that he members of the Roosevelt dynasty. owned on Poughkeepsie’s Market Street. From the 1930s onward, the Bardavon Is hiking from New York City to Albany via Where the theater lobby now stands became progressively more focused on the Long Path inadequate to satisfy your was once an archway allowing horse- the screening of movies, and by the perambulatory ambitions? Stick around drawn carriages to enter the building’s 1970s the surge in construction of mall for the assembly of the Empire State courtyard. The Collingwood family cineplexes was threatening its financial Trail, a Greenway project announced owned and operated the theater for viability. It closed in 1975 and was slated in Governor Cuomo’s 2017 State of the next 50 years, presenting such leg- for demolition, to be replaced with a the State address as “a new initiative endary names as Mark Twain, Buffalo parking lot. placing New York State at the forefront Bill Cody, John Philip Sousa, George Fortunately, community preservation of national efforts to enhance outdoor M. Cohan, Ignacy Paderewski, Jascha activists rallied to save the historic recreation, community vitality and Heifetz, Ruth St. Denis, Isadora Dun- building and formed a not-for-profit tourism development.” Approximately can, Edwin Booth, Sarah Bernhardt, organization to keep it running as a 400 miles of the Trail already exist in Douglas Fairbanks, John and Ethel theater and concert hall. It was added discrete, disconnected segments. When Barrymore and Helen Hayes (in her to the National Register of Historic completed by the end of 2020, the first starring role). Places in 1977 and back in business Empire State Trail will be a continuous In 1923, the theater was sold and as the Bardavon 1869 Opera House by 750-mile route spanning the state from converted to a “combination house” 1979, with some $10 million worth of New York City to Canada and Buffalo to showcasing vaudeville performers, stock restoration work proceeding in phases Albany, creating the longest multi-use and dance companies and silent movies. ever since. The Bardavon has been the state trail in the nation. It was renamed after the original Bard of home of the Hudson Valley Philharmonic It’s envisioned as consisting of three Avon, William Shakespeare, a painting for over 40 years. major sections: In our neck of the woods of whom was added to the space as part Stellar names in the contemporary arts is the Hudson Valley Greenway, which of a major renovation that shrank the world including Joshua Bell and John includes Walkway over the Hudson capacity of the theater from 2,000 to Malkovich will be added to the ever- and the Beacon, Dutchess, Hudson 944 seats, but improved its acoustics. growing roster of world-class performers Valley, Wallkill Valley, Kingston Point, The Mighty Wurlitzer pipe organ that to have played at the Bardavon. For AHET and Mohawk/Hudson rail trails. still graces the house was installed in updates on these performances and Heading north toward the Canadian 1928. Broadway shows began using sesquicentennial events in the works, visit border will be the Champlain Valley the Bardavon as a space for out-of- www.bardavon.org. Trail, which will incorporate many miles town tryouts, and it was also the site of – Frances Marion Platt of Champlain Canalway towpaths. West many political rallies, often featuring 52 • Spring 2019 Explore Hudson Valley

Scenic Hudson eyes Kingston Landing site as potential park

Fourteen years ago, Kingston Landing Development, LLC (KLD), a subsidi- ary of AVR Realty, closed on a 500-acre site along the Hudson River that was an abandoned cement works. The com- pany planned to construct 1,658 housing units on the land, two-thirds of which is located in the City of Kingston and the remaining acreage in the Town of Ulster. After a multiyear review, the project was approved, but the development never got off the ground, and now the Scenic JEFF ANZEVINO Hudson Land Trust – which played an important role in the KLD’s review pro- cess, successfully prodding the developer to incorporate areas of open space in the final plan – has secured the rights to pur- chase the property. The property is spectacular and for a long time has functioned as an off-limits recre- ation center for trespassing ATV drivers, who roar around the moonscape quarries on warm days. Other classes of trespasser are hikers and birdwatchers, of which, I confess, I am one, drawn every spring to the forested ridge overlooking the quarries, which has an abundance of vernal pools from which wood frogs have begun to quack. They’ll be followed later in April by the silvery lilt of returning wood thrushes. In May, pairs of breeding Baltimore orioles and rose-breasted grosbeaks can be seen flitting along the tops of the aging elms. Yet another attraction is a couple of ancient PHOTOGRAPHS OF THE PROSPECTIVE PARK COURTESY OF SCENIC HUDSON cars mysteriously marooned in the for- est, including a De Soto, which each year becomes more covered in vines. The not-for-profit environmental orga- nization, which is based in Poughkeepsie and has established a number of public- access preserves along the Hudson River, is currently assessing the property, which is scattered with industrial ruins, and rais- ing funds. If the purchase goes through, it would most likely be this summer, said Steve Rosenberg, executive director of the Scenic Hudson Land Trust and senior vice president of Scenic Hudson, Inc. The property includes more than a mile of Hudson River frontage. “It’s remarkably diverse and complex,” said Rosenberg. “It’s quite natural and beautiful. We see this as an opportunity to take a scarred landscape and work with the community to develop Explore Hudson Valley Spring 2019 • 53 a vision for how it can be transformed into infrastructure, including all new sewers Street in the City of Kingston on the south. an outstanding recreational and tourism- and roads,” he said. In contrast, a park Although North Street, which leads to the supporting resource.” would have a far smaller environmental Hutton Brickyards event venue, is cur- He added, “There are very few parcels footprint, possibly incorporating solar rently not accessible to the public, Noble over 500 acres with waterfront, and we’re power and composting toilet facilities, he said that the city-owned road would be guessing this is the only one mostly within said. open during the day and necessary repairs the limits of a city. It lies immediately Prior to becoming a cement works in made to it once the promenade along the across from the 16-mile Estates District 1957, the property had supported brick river was built. [now part of the Hudson River National manufacturing and ice harvesting. The Scenic Hudson’s plan for the park would Historic Landmarks District] and has Hudson Valley Cement facility closed in include some type of conservation and interpretative signage or other program- ming preserving its industrial history, The property is spectacular and for a long time said Rosenberg. “Part of the job we’ve undertaken is to get our arms around the has functioned as an off -limits recreation center property and understand the scope and scale of the remaining infrastructure,” he for trespassing ATV drivers, who roar around said. “It’s all part of the package of conserv- the moonscape quarries on warm days. ing the historic aspects.” Another former industrial site owned by Scenic Hudson is the West Point Foundry Preserve at Cold Spring, which dates back to well before tremendous potential for contributing 1985 and was purchased by Tilcon Min- the Civil War. The organization worked to the educational, social and historical erals, which used a former mule barn as with an industrial archaeologist as part fabric of the community, which is of great an office, before being bought by KLD in of its commitment to “the community to importance to us and our mission.” 2005. Noble said that he doubted if there get a better understanding of that history” Rosenberg declined to state the proposed would be an issue with hazardous waste. before “landing on a specific approach or purchase price, and a call to Kingston “During the environmental review process way of thinking about the site.” He said that Landing Development vice president [for KLD], I don’t believe they found a lot collecting stories from people who worked Thomas Perna by this reporter was not of hazards,” he said, adding that “Scenic at the cement works might be part of the returned. In a Scenic Hudson press release, Hudson is spending the next 100 days on historic preservation effort. Perna was quoted as saying in part that due diligence to make sure there are no Besides the mayor, “Officials within KLD “is excited by Scenic Hudson’s interest hidden surprises.” Kingston have expressed great support,” in the property and will be working closely Given the scale and complexity of the Rosenberg said. “We are looking forward and diligently with all concerned to move project, Scenic Hudson would likely take to working with the community once we this acquisition forward.” a phased approach, with a priority being determine if we are in a position to proceed Kingston mayor Steve Noble lauded Sce- a mile-and-a-half promenade along the to develop that vision together. We are nic Hudson’s proposed purchase. “Taking Hudson River, “which is already approved raising the funds necessary to complete 500 acres of previous industrial land, as and mostly designed,” said Rosenberg. “It the purchase, reaching out to potential well as beautiful forest with unique quar- would be great to advance that” if possible philanthropic supporters. We believe it’s ries, and getting it into the hands of the while other portions of the site are under achievable.” public to turn it into an urban recreational development as a park. – Lynn Woods area would create a destination for those The walkway was planned under the in the whole region,” he said. previous city administration, which had Noting that KLD currently pays $66,000 acquired grant funding for the project, Everything annually to the city in property taxes, Noble and the developer was supposed to match. suggested that the economic activity result- Noble said that the city still has access Ulster Publishing ing from the new Scenic Hudson preserve to the $1.2 million state grant to build a in one place. would make up for the loss of that revenue. stone-dust path, with another $200,000 “It would drive tourism to Kingston. People in funding available to pave the trail. (The would spend money at local shops and res- pathway would be part of the Empire State taurants, and this would also continue to help Trail, a planned 750-mile paved trail in the value of properties around it,” he said. Just New York State announced by Governor as importantly, “It would improve the quality Cuomo in 2017.) Brenna Robinson, direc- of life of residents who live here now.” tor of the city’s Office of Economic and Noble speculated that the housing crisis Community Development, said that the of 2008 might have changed the model for state has extended the timeline for the the KLD project, which included hundreds grant, which would need to be matched of condominiums. “The market couldn’t by the city. support that type of housing, mostly be- The walkway would connect with East hudsonvalleyone.com cause the site includes a huge amount of Kingston on the north and with North 54 • Spring 2019 Explore Hudson Valley

Confederation had neglected to give the the general had not been flattered by this How Washington Continental Congress the right to levy encouragement to pursue a grander ambi- thwarted the Newburgh taxes at a federal level, relying instead on tion. But as the months went on without voluntary contributions from state legis- significant infusions of money from the Conspiracy & saved latures to fund the war effort. The soldiers states to support the army, the muttering the republic of the Continental Army had therefore among the troops did not subside. gone a long time without being paid; The second incident, known to history as when they were, it was often in the form the Newburgh Conspiracy, was probably When we learn about the US War of In- of paper money or certificates that were the brainchild of General Horatio Gates, dependence in elementary school, em- quickly being depreciated. Some troops who nursed a grudge against Washing- phasis is placed mainly on the colonists’ sold these documents off to speculators ton for getting the appointment he had grievances with their English overlords, at a fraction of their face value, simply in wanted for himself: to be commander-in- the early skirmishes that ignited the re- order to be able to support their families chief of the Continental Army. Gates had bellion and the personalities who were a little longer. Many feared that when the some backing in Philadelphia: A cadre the prime movers. At some point in our peace treaty was finally signed, they would of “nationalists,” advocates of a strong studies, it’s also impressed on us that, if all be sent home with fulsome praise and central government – among them Su- he had wanted to, George Washington no back pay – nor the lifetime pension at perintendent of Finance Robert Morris, could have become King of America. But half-pay that they’d been promised. Jr. and his assistant Gouverneur Morris, we’re never told exactly where or under Twice during his sojourn in Newburgh, James Madison and James Wilson – was what circumstances that happened. The General Washington was faced with crises not-so-subtly encouraging mutinous answer may surprise you. fueled by this discontent. Had someone rumblings amongst the troops. Fear of a The circumstances of later Revolu- else been at the helm in either instance, military coup was being leveraged in an tionary battles, as the war dragged on American history might have gone down effort to persuade the Congress to pass for seven years, blur together in our radically different paths – toward a new an amendment to the Articles of Confed- minds unless we’re serious history buffs. monarchy in the first instance, toward a eration creating an “impost” or tariff on Heritage-tourism pilgrimages focus on coup d’état potentially establishing a mili- imported goods, specifically intended to Boston-area flashpoints like Bunker Hill, tary dictatorship in the second. Writing finance the army. Lexington and Concord, and to a lesser retrospectively, Thomas Jefferson lauded Alexander Hamilton, Washington’s extent, Independence Hall in Philadel- Washington’s personal commitment to the former aide-de-camp and now a congress- phia. By contrast, and despite having creation of a new republic: “the modera- man, was also a proponent of the impost. been the very first publicly owned historic tion and virtue of a single character had But he mistrusted Gates’ ambitions and site in the nation (officially preserved in probably prevented this revolution from was perturbed by the level of political 1850), the Jonathan Hasbrouck House being closed as most others have been by a gamesmanship that would risk provoking in Newburgh tends to fly a bit under the subversion of that liberty it was intended an actual coup without a strong guiding radar as a destination. On the surface, to establish.” hand. So he wrote Washington a letter this seems unsurprising: By the time it The first threat came in the form of what in February of 1783, urging him to take became Washington’s Headquarters, on became known as the “Newburgh Letter,” measures to “preserve the confidence of March 31, 1782, active fighting had already written to Washington on May 22, 1782 the army without losing that of the people.” been essentially over for nearly six months, by one Colonel Lewis Nicola, who claimed Washington wrote back to thank him for since Cornwallis’ surrender at Yorktown to be speaking “in the name of the field the intelligence and shrug off the hint that on October 19, 1781. General Washington officers of the army.” Nicola began with a he himself should assume leadership of remained ensconced there for more than passionate plea on behalf of the soldiers any military uprising, noting that “the a year, keeping an eye on British-occupied who hadn’t been paid in many months, but army…is a dangerous instrument to play New York City while negotiations went on soon shifted to the argument that the US with.” that would result in the Treaty of Paris, should become a constitutional monarchy, The blow fell shortly thereafter. On signed on September 3, 1783. urging Washington to assume kingship March 8, Colonel Walter Stewart, a But amongst the troops encamped even if he had to come up with a more Pennsylvanian possibly acting as an agent nearby at the New Windsor Cantonment, palatable word for it. Among his rationales for Robert Morris, arrived at Newburgh, privation and inactivity were proving were the fact that Holland, once the most returning to duty following an illness. a volatile combination. The Articles of successful of “modern republicks,” had He is believed to have met with General subsequently lost its domination of the Gates almost immediately, urging that seas and trade; and the potential threat the army should threaten to refuse to posed by neighboring Canada, presuming disband until its demands for back pay that it would continue under a monarchi- and a guaranteed pension were met. On TLK LLC cal system. March 10 an anonymous letter – believed Portable Toilet Rentals Washington’s reaction to this suggestion now to have been written by Gates’ aide- 845-658-8766 | 845-417-6461 | 845-706-7197 was an immediate and vehement rebuke, de-camp, Major John Armstrong – cir- [email protected] calling it a provocation to “the greatest mis- culated among the troops, scheduling a tlkportables.com chiefs that can befall my Country.” Nicola meeting of officers for the following day Weekends • Weekly • Monthly backed down, apparently surprised that and calling for an ultimatum to be issued Explore Hudson Valley Spring 2019 • 55 to Congress, refusing to stand down once ing the stirring St. Crispin’s Day speech in in shaping America’s future than any of the peace treaty was signed until the pay Shakespeare’s Henry V. “No disorder, or the fiery rhetoric that ignited the war in issues were settled. It urged its readers to licentiousness, must be tolerated” from the the first place. “suspect the man who will advise to more troops upon their dismissal, he added, even The Washington’s Headquarters State moderation and longer forbearance,” an as he authorized an extra ration of liquor to Historic Site, located at the corner of apparent reference to Washington. be issued to each in order to raise a toast to Liberty and Washington Streets in the City The general made his move quickly, “Perpetual Peace, Independence and Hap- of Newburgh’s East End Historic District, rescheduling the “irregular” meeting from piness, to the of America.” returns to its extended hour for the sum- March 11 to March 15 and implying that he Congress soon worked out a compromise mer season as of April 24: 11 a.m. to 5 would not attend, but would be expecting in which veterans received their half-pay p.m. Wednesday through Saturday, 1 to 5 a report from the presiding officer. In a pension for five years after the Revolution- p.m. Sunday, closed Monday and Tuesday. turnabout that dramatically took the wind ary War ended, rather than for life, and Following an extensive renovation, the out of Gates’ sails, Washington strode eventually got the ability to levy federal 125-year-old Tower of Victory at the site into the tent, took over the meeting and taxes. Washington agreed to serve two is now open for public tours for the first began to denounce the “shocking” and terms as president, never wavering in his time since 1950. For more information, “subversive” letter, terming its author “an faith that a republican form of government call (845) 562-1195 or visit www.facebook. insidious foe.” He called upon those pres- could thrive. In the long run, what hap- com/washingtonsheadquarters. ent to demonstrate “proof of unexampled pened at Newburgh after the battles were – Frances Marion Platt patriotism and patient virtue.” over turned out to have more significance Then came the coup de grace. As evi- dence that the military should have “full Zena Rommett Floor-BarreTM confidence in the purity of the intentions WEEKLY of Congress,” Washington produced a CLASSES An integrative form of subtle and effective training to letter from a supportive Virginia Con- AVAILABLE IN core strengthen, lengthen and create space in the whole body while lying on the floor. For gressman, but had difficulty reading it KINGSTON AND dancers, athletes, injured and aloud. 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