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Reed Mark of Fabric and Its Relation with Warp Tension at Beat-Up with Different Loom Settings

Reed Mark of Fabric and Its Relation with Warp Tension at Beat-Up with Different Loom Settings

Indian Journal of Research Vol.13,September 1988, Pp. 151-157

Reed Mark of Fabric and Its Relation with Warp Tension at Beat-up with Different Settings

S K NEOGI and P K BHATT ACHARYYA Indian Jute Industries' Research Association, 17 Taratola Road,Calcutta 700088, India Received 21 August 1987; revised and accepted 20 January 1988

Reed mark of jute fabric with , expressed as reed mark percentage ({tMP), has been studied with differ- ent loom parameters. Attempts have also been made to find out the relationships between RMP and (a) tension differ- ence between two warp lines at beat-up and (b) seepage of the fabric. RMP at fell varies in the same manner as that at grey state of fabric with different loom settings and the relationship between them is linear with correlation coeffi- cient of 0.96. RMP at grey state decreases with earlier shed timing, higher back rest position and change of leasing pat- tern of warp from one-by-one to two-by-two. Beat-up tension difference varies inversely with RMP and the rela- tionship between them is linear with correlation coefficients of - 0.91 and - 0.76 for different shed timings and back rest positions respectively. Seepage of the fabric is directly related with RMP with correlation coefficient of 0.64.

Keywords: Jute fabric, Loom setting, Reed mark, Warp tension

1 Introduction 2.1 Measurement of Reed Mark Reed mark or Reediness of fabric is one of the During the yarns interlace major faults and, therefore, needs proper care dur- at the fell to form a fabric and the resultant cover of ing weaving. Since jute cloth is mostly used as sacks the fabric depends mainly on the conditions of the for carrying food grains, cement, etc., pore size or yarns at that instance. It was, therefore, considered the cover of the cloth plays an important role in its worthwhile to study the reed mark at the cloth fell practical uses. Methods to overcome reed mark on on the loom to observe its behaviour with varying cloth are fairly known and have been discussed ear- parameters of weaving and then to compare it with lier'<", but no systematic analysis of the effects of the ultimate reed mark of the fabric off the loom. different loom settings on reed mark has been made. Since the fabric selected for study was of much open Snowden? made some studies with fabrics construction with coarse warp yarns (Table 1),inter- and expressed the reed mark quantitatively but he spaces for calculating reed mark were mea- too did not consider the effects of either different leasing patterns or the tension of warp yarns during weaving on the reed mark of the cloth. Table I-e-Particulars of Loom and Fabric The lack of sufficient information on these prob- lems has initiated in undertaking a study, reported Make of 100m Utex (India) here, with plain jute fabrics which are generally of Loom speed 152 ppm Reed space 112.1 ern opener construction and, therefore, more prone to Warp width at reed 107.3 em such defect. Shed dwell 130· The reed mark of the fabric has been expressed in No. of heald shaft Two with sliding wire healds percentage form as reed mark percentage (RMP) Let-off motion Negative friction type and calculated as (A- B)/Ex 100, where A is the Weave Plain (1/1) Ends/dm 39 distance between two warp ends separated by a reed Picks/dm 35.6 wire; and B, the distance between two successive Warp count 275.6 tex warp ends in a dent. Weft count 292.8 tex Denting pattern 2 in a dent for body and 4 in a dent 2 Materials and Methods for selvedge Leasing pattern 1 up-I down and 2 up-2 down Hessian fabric woven on a non-automatic Reed dent/ern 1.81 loom in UIRA laboratory was used for the study. Ratio of air space to reed The particulars of fabric and loom are given in wire, 0/0 68.5:31.5 Table 1.

151 INDIAN J. TEXT. RES.,YOLo 13, SEPTEMBER 1988 sured between the axes of two successive yarns with back rest could not be set at a level with or below the. the help of an ordinary mm steel rule and a magnify- height of front rest because of the mechanicallirnit- ing glass of power of 5.88 dioptres. To find out RMP atiolls of the loom and hence the effects of loom ~ at fell, inter-yam spaces were measured between the setting with top shed tighter than the bottom could ~ - second and third picks soon after stopping the loom not be compared with those studied by Snowden9. with crank at back centre and front heald down, and The maximum height of back rest with two-by-two to find out RMP at grey state, measurements were leasing could not be set as high as that with one-by- taken after the samples were relaxed for at least 48 one as any attempt to go beyond the height of 11.5 h. RMPs at fell and grey state of each sample are the cm caused the top shed line getting too slack to per- average of six values calculated at six different mit satisfactory weaving. Distances between the places along the width of the fabric, leaving about back heald and front lease rod and between the 7.5 cm from each selvedge and 45 cm from the start lease rods were kept unaltered throughout the . of a sample. The places were so selected that the same Warp Yarns were involved for calculatin g the W E ' arp nds r" ofcorresponding all the samples.values At each of RMP place, at twenty fell and consecutive grey state ~ readings of A and B (section 1) were taken. There- LeaseRads fore,of inter-yarn each value spaces. ofRMP is ' the result of 120 readings ..

2.2 Loom Setting and Leasing Pattern of Warp Yam BackHeald Loom settings studied to observe their effects Up f h dd ' . d f FrontHeald were timing.. 0 s e mg motIon an posItion.. 0 I 1 : : Down back rest. As shown in Fig. 1, three different posi- I il :1 II ,I ReedDent tions of shed level and heights of back rest with re- A B fr ed 1:;' h h d tim.1st, 2nd, spect to ont rest were arrang .ror eac s e -III LeasingPattern ing and back rest height, three types of leasing pat- T tern, one-by-one (invariably adopted for weaving ': I I jute fabrics with plain weave), two-by-two type 1 (i.e. conventional for cotton weaving) and two-by-two type 2 (i.e. type 1 with rearranged denting), as shown in Fig. 2, were used. Therefore, a total of 27 samples with various combinations of loom setting and leas- ing pattern were woven. As 'shown in Fig. 1, the .I I .::. .::1 . Fell H~dS Lea..Rods ABC 1 0I 1 I ..

tI "'~ =r1~~~t"'.~\f\. 1stDent: A-B=Maximum-Minimum'High --?+2'4 ---2nd Dent: C-D=Maximum(-)-Minimum(+)-Low 23 66 8'5 , 2/2, Type 1 Leasinq Pattern .I I I I Value of 'X' I I I 1 1/1LeasinQ 2/2LoasinQ (Type1&2) 3.5cm 3.5 cm 8-5cm 8.5 cm 13-5Cm 11.5cm

PS PE S~ED LEVEL -,-- 0'/360'. -,-- 315' 270' I : ' j-I' i BU/S .1 I m . I I I I I I I A 0 C B 1st,Dent: A-D = Maximum-Minimum (+ )aMedium SL 2ndDoot:C-B=Maximum(-)-Minimum=Medium BU-BeatuPjSL Shedlevel;SO-Shedopen 2/2. Type2 LeasingPattern SC-Shed ctosinQ;PS-Pick;nQ slor1sjPE-P jokIng ends Fig. I-Loom settingand timing diagram Fig. 2- Leasingpattern of warpyarns studied

152 NEOGIand BHAlTACHARYYA: REED MARK OF FABRICAND ITS RELAllON WITHWARP 1ENSION study. When the height of back rest was changed the 3 Results and Discussion distances of lease rods from the heald shafts were readjusted. 3.1 RMP at Felland Grey State Table 2 shows the values of RMP at fell and grey 2.3 Measurementof WarpTension state of the samples with different loom settings and For all the 27 cloth samples, tensions of single le~ing patterns. It is observed that RMP of the fa- warp yarn of both front and back heald shafts pass- bncs under any weaving condition changes from fell ing through the same dent of reed were measured to grey state and is generally higher at the former. d~ring weaving at four different places along the Changes i,n RMP are. possibly ?ue to the changesin WIdth of the warp sheet (about 7.5 cm away from the yam spa~mgsan.d cnmp amplitudes of both sets of selvedge) between warp beam and back rest with the yams while passmg from fell to grey state. It is also help of Rothschild electronic tensiometer and Hel- observed that RMP at fell varies more or less in the coscriptor recorder. The chart speed of the recor" same manner as at grey state and the relationship der was 50 minis. Tension recording was done after betw.eenthe ~s at these two stagesis linear (Fig. at least fifty picks were inserted. From the tension 3) WIth the equation, RMP at grey state = 22.70 + chart, ten consecutive peaks (i.e. the maximum ten- 0.68 x RMP at fell and correlation coefficient (r) of sion) at the instance of beat-up were noted for each 0.96, ~hich is statistically highly significant. There- yam for calculating mean beat-up tension. Basic ~ore, WIth the type of fabric studied, a fairly accurate tension of warp yams was kept as far as possible Idea <:>~resultant r~ed mark of the fabric with a given same throughout the study. condItion of weavmg can be obtained from the ob- served ,;,alue of reed mark at fell and, if necessary, 2.4 Seepage correctIve measure can be taken well before the de- Seepageis the extent of percolation of granules of fective fabric has already been produced. a given size, shape and weight through the inter- stices ofa fabric in a given time. Therefore, the high- 140 er the reediness of a cloth the greater is the pore size between the groups of yams separated by the reed 120 wires and higher should be the seepage.To correlate RMP of the cloths with seepage,each cloth sample ~ 100 was tested for seepage in UIRA laboratory by plac- ~ ing 1 kg of mustard on the sample of effective area ~ eo of 324 cm2 and shaking it for 5 min by Sinex electric : vibrator, UK. Mustard was selected because of its 60 smooth and round surface, reusability and its being 0 ~:2~:: 068x one of the food materials transported in jute bags. 40 From the weight of mustard passed through the 50 70 :MP0' F"~ 130 ~o 170

sample after the stipulated period of time the per- Fig.3-Relationshipbetween RMPs at fell and grey state of centage seepagewas calculated. fabric

Table 2-RMP at Different Cloth Positionswith Varying Loom Settingsand LeasingPatterns Shedlevel Backrest Leasingpattern position heightwith (00) respectto 1/1 2/2 Type1 2V2Type 2 frontrest cm Fell Greystate Fell Greystate Fell Greystate 3.5 156.4 129.9 145.1 127.1 118.4 112.1 0/360 8.5 156.1 127.0 113.8 107.3 118.3 106.6 13.5'/11.5 123.2 101.6 116.0 100.8 97.1 88.1 3.5 164.7 125.3 159.1 129.3 135.8 114.5 315 8.5 136.3 109.7 124.4 109.7 99.7 93.6 13.5'/11.5 124.7 100.7 122.2 98.3 95;1 86.6 3.5 145.0 117.2 116.4 114.6 105.5 98.6 270 8.5 120.9 101.7 82.0 80.5 75.9 79.7 13,5"/11.5 90.7 80.1 61.7 59.1 53.8 49.4 '13.5cm with 1 up-l downleasing pattern. ":~ : 153 -.-r- INDIAN J. TEXT. RES.,YOLo 13,SEPTEMBER 1988

The behaviourof warp yams at fell while produc- the fabric in the samemanner as they have passed. ing the highestand lowestdegree of reed mark in a through the dents.There is hardly any evidenceof fabric is shownin Fig. 4. In Fig. 4A, warp yams with side-wisemovement of either of the yams in a pair loom settingsand leasingpattern not suitable for to coverthe spacesleft wide open by the reedwires. /h, better cover of the fabric are seento run in pair in In Fig. 4B, with appropriateloom settingsand leas- ing pattern everyalternate warp yam is seento have moved away from its partner and thereby reduces the gap created by the reed wire. This side-wise movementis observedto havetaken place while the yam wasat the top and,therefore, slack. This clearly provesthe generalbelief'- 9that slacknessand tight- nessof a warp yam duringweaving created by prop- , er loom settingsplay the key role in achievinggood coverof a fabric. ~- , 3.2 Effect of Loom Setting and Leasing Pattern of Warp Yarns ~ ~ --! ",,)8"'1 ' i 3.2.1 Table Shed 2 Timing ~d Fig. 5 ,sho,":,that irrespective of the .).r'.',.~t;"~/.'.- back rest height and leasmgpattern RMP ~t.gr~y d.- ""'Wf~",.~~ .-~~~".. stategenerally decreases as the s~edlevel positionis ..\ .r "-1- ---!:!i -~- set further away ~om be~t-up. Fig. 5 shows th,at the ~. ,,~ ~ ...W ~... rate of decrease m RMP mcreases as the shed level

~r.~f=.t_j_'.~ :J.,: position approaches 2700 on crank cycle. There- = i:t;!.tI1;1;il1:J:t.: ~ore,withintheallowablelimit th~greatertheopen- ..81 :.-, -'.,' _.., -1 ~~., .mg of shedatbeat-upthelowerwill bethe ~e~dency pr..~~--~'..t.~"'i.~. for reed mark. Settmgthe shed level pOsitionbe- -~ !:J~~'~}.1.~'~~@'~.:! yond 2700is,however,not alwayspossiblebecause. ~ ~.- of likelihood of shuttletrappingwhile it is leaving the shed.The results of percentagereduction in reedmarkwith differentloomparameters(Table3) showthatwithagivenbackrestpositionandleasing patternthe timing of sheddingmotionhasa signifi- canteffecton reedmarkand in the caseof two-by- two (type2) leasing,reedmarkwith the highestpo- den9observedmarginalimprovementinsitionof backresthasreducedbyabout44%.Snow- reed mark .

with shedlevelat400beforebeat-up.The resultsof + ~ the presentstudywith shedlevelat450beforebeat- uparein agreementwiththoseof Snowden. ;

,.. ?' 3.2.2 Back Rest Po~ition .. -" I '" ~. .' !\.,.,.~ .Table 2 and Fig. 6 show that Wlth the gtvenshed .~4..'...JI...".,f " ~~.. W,-' w... W ...130 --~.I; ..'~..'...~" 1 ~_.'~..,,'"Wtr)t "'~.I'.-'.."".~'-"~ I~.' .t-r. ~... i ~110 II::1'.S.' , c.,alt'.."'8. ; .!fIt.' -~-.i "If"~. 1'1.'rJ-' *" a 1:'. ~f""'~..tliIl;=..,'1 ~ ~o ~ ~,.r" r1~ ~;r; t F!,~\l;r ~e WI ~ ~ , Fig. 4-Behaviour of warp yarns at fell (magnification, 1.5 x) 70 [(A) Shed timing-shed level at 0./360., back rest height 3.5 cm, 0/360 315 270 leasing pattern Ill; (B) Shed timing-shed level at 270., back ShedLevel Position (0°) rest height 11.5 cm, leasing pattern 2/2 type 2] Fig. 5- Variation of average RMP with shed timing

154 NEOGIand BHA1TACHARYYA: REED MARK OF FABRICAND ITSRELA1l0NWITH WARP TENSION timing and leasing pattern RMP reduces as the back pass through the leasing zone in the different man- rest is set higher with respect to front rest which is in ners and, therefore, are under different levels of ten- agreement with the findings of Snowden9 and the sion at the time of beat-up. The magnitude of reduc- rate of decrease increases with the higher positions tion in reed mark due to change in leasing pattern is of back rest. The maximum reduction in reed mark, more significant with earlier timing of shedding mo- of about 50%, is achieved when the back rest, in tion and higher position of back rest (Figs 5 and 6). combination with shed level at 270°, is at the highest When the denting of warp yams with two-by-two position with two-by-two (type 2) leasing pattern (type 1) leasing pattern is modified to type 2, as (Table 3). shown in Fig. 2, RMP of the fabric at each shed tim- ing and back rest height is reduced further (Tables 2 3.2.3 LeasingPattem and 3), possibly for the reasons discussed below. Table 2 and Figs 5 and 6 show that at each combi- Fig. 7 shows the gradual iniprovement in cover, i.e. nation of shed timing and back rest height RMP re- reduction in reed mark, of the fabrics due to change duces when the leasing pattern of warp yarns is in leasing pattern for a given shed timing and back changed from one-by-one to two-by-two (type 1), rest position. possibly due to the greater variation of beat-up ten- sion associated with the the latter type of leasing 3.2..1.1Reasons for ImprovedCloth Cover with Two-by-Two, pattern. Fig. 2 shows that in the case of one-by-one Type2 Leasingof WarpYarns Compared to Twp-by- leasing all the warp yarns of either front or back Two,Type 1 Leasing heald shaft pass through the lease rods in the same Considering two-by-two (type 1) leasing pattern m~er and, ~erefore, experi~nce s~ar level of in Fig. 2, analysis of shed geometry with back rest at tension at the time of beat-up (I.e. dunng the forma- higher level and shed nearly full open at the time of tion of the cloth). On the other hand, in the case of beat-up, e.g. shed level at 270°, reveals that at beat- two-by-two leasing the yarns of the same heald shaft up the half of the total warp yarns W of the heald forming bottom shed are diverted from the front Table 3-PercentageReductionin RMP with Different lease rod and have the maximum beat-up tensions Loom Settings and the half of the total yarns 'B' of the heald at top .passing through the same dents as W are diverted Back-rest Shed Leasmgpattem fr th b k I d dh th .. h . ght II om e ac ease ro an ave e lnln1mum el eve b . In th d th . cm (0°) 1/1 2/2 2/2 eat-up tensions. 0 er ents, at e same time (Type1) (Type2) the rest of the yams 'c' of the bottom shed are di- -0/360 21.8 20.7 21.4 veTted from the back lease rod located further away -315 19.6 24.0 24.4 and experience the beat-up tensions lower than the -270 31.7 48.4 49.9 maximum [indicated in Fig. 2 by maximum ( -)] and 3.5 -9.8 9.8 12.0 rest of the warp yams 'D' of the top shed are divert- 8.5 -19.9 25.

155 INDIAN J. TEXT. RES.,YOLo 13, SEYrEMBER 1988

I c -~£~.~-, 1K f_1 sions between the yarns of two shed lines will be .

.(.;;c ..-"c.- ~i.. mo~e uniform (Fi~. 2) but significant in each dent in ."i! .'!,=f 8 !:1 a pIck cycle, po~sIbly.to h~vebetter effects on reed ~ II. rei.~.., ...i- ..mark of the ~abnc.. WIth this arrangement, the ?lean 0 ~~:: :'1: ~-1 be~t-up tensIon differ~nce ~fthe warp sheet ~ re- ., _I.~ ~. : ..' ' = ., m.am the same. To ve~ this, study was.carned out ..i ., '8 .WIth rear!anged denting of warp yarns m the man- ..: (. t -~.' , -.', .: .~~~:.. n~r mentio~ed abov~ and expec~ed re~ults were ob- I f...'...8 . ' i .J2.. talned, as discussed m 3.2.3. This leasmg pattern of ~.. ~ t.f warp yarns with rearranged denting, which in fact is , ...41',.'.'.',!-: :i~1 the combina?on of one-by-on~ and two-by-two ,~.(.~ 8... .Jy8I'~ " ~~ , (type 1) leasm~s, ha~ been desIgnated as two-by- \ ,...,.,.,8, ...~ two,type2Ieasmg(FIg.2).

.'8;~.t84 ",.. ~.,- ,...".'.I.q : =-tJt=t= 1 3.3 Relationshipbetween Beat-up !e~sion and RMP. ~1- ~ -.& 8'0... 8&. I. c ...To study the nature of vanation of warp tensIon difference at beat-up with RMP at grey state of the ~'N 5 ;""';;. ...j..,~'..i: fabric, the mean differences of peak te~ions at llil 5 " 1 --'(II beat-upbetween~ebottomandtops~edlineshave ; been ~lott~ agamst!he correspon~~ values?f ,,1,8' 1... ~ m FI~. 8 for different sh~~ timings and m lC.. ,.. ~;.i. "..1 II FIg. 9 for differe~t ba~k rest posItIons. The ~gu~es '~.".c. 8'M;1 show that the tensIon difference at beat-up vanes m- t~ .', WMlt ,. ...~ versely with RMP. The reason is that earlier timing I. I', .~ -~ -~ 8, ; ~ ...of ~he?ding motion and higher posi~on of back. rest .: I: ei' ~' ~ ,. while Improve the cover of the fabnc, as descnbed ~ ," --~~~,". .~.~. in 3.2.1. and 3.2.2, cause greater d~erence in beat- -~ ..? ~-.,j-,ItI;,;-.. ~ up tension between the, two shed lines as the yarns ~ ~..~...:".~.~iI of bottom shed line ~et increasingly tigh~er ~d ~~.~ -:iIt those of the top ~hed.line slacker. The r~la~ons~p , :~ ~~ ~...Ii .~.~ ~~W. -'~ ...between the tensI?n difference .and RMP IS linear m :l~~~-~~~~~~~~~~..'. both the cases Wl~ the. equations, RMP= ~15.63- 0.23 x beat-up tensIon difference for change m shed

B t'~~ i " .'Y""~.~1 iJ ? ~g and RMP=1~2.96-0.68xbe~!-up tension

..11 ., ...8' ,. i difference for change m back rest posItIon. The res-

~, .~... , .i' , ~- ~... .~ pective correlati°t.t c.°efficie~ts of th~ ~o equations ; ,... ; -~~' -,1 are -0.91. \statISti~~y highly sIgnificant) and 1.~ .~I.'..~ ~::.. .a~,., -O. 76 (stati~tically sI~cant at 5% level). -+--, li~ I.:-..I.'. "... i!' ~-j Acompanson of FIgS 8 and 9 show that the gra- ~ , tal -, Iff.:" ~..I ...r- ..:i:i~:.'f=.::f:J 120 ,.ft .' .. '. 11,"';1 " ' 10) ,...~!"It,"~~..~ ",. .'=.:... '.'. , .'1 ~ ;r - ";- :; ...S fl.~ j tOO

!! ~'~...~.. ...11 ':. '~.~-..",. .~-.J . ': . :", "i t !,_~... ',.. ~ 90 -. ~ c~ I ° _.,"',,' ~ ',i... :.,-~.s_!.~ .,," ..~ 10 Fig, 7-Effect of leasingpattern on cloth cover (magnification, -- 1.5 x ) [(A) Shedtiming-shed level at 270°,back rest height 13.5 70 crn, leasing pattern 1/1; (B) Shed timing-shed level at 270°, 0 so tOO 'so '7S back rest height 11,5 crn, leasiBgp~ttern 2/2 type 1; (C) Shed Boot-upTon"on 00""'"00",9 timing-shed level at 270°,back rest height11.5 crn, leasing pat- Fig, 8-Relationship betweenbeat-up tension difference and tern 2/2 type 2] RMP with differentshed timings

156 NEOGI and BHAlTACHARYYA: REED MARK OF FABRIC AND ITS RELATION WITH WARP TENSION

125 0 crease in RMP at grey state (Pig. 10). These two fa~- tors are related linearly with the equation, See- 120 page = 0.39 x RMP- 2.03 with correlation coeffi-

cient of 0.64, which is statistically highly significant. This finding agrees with the observation made by Snowden9 on the air permeability of the fabric. 110

4 Conclusions ~ 4.1 Reediness of plain jute fabric of opener con- E 1 00 struction, expressed quantitatively as reed mark If) percentage (RMP), is generally higher at feU of cloth

f (i.e. at loom state) than at grey state for any loom ~ 0 setting and leasing pattern of warp yarns studied. a 90 RMPs at these two stages are related linearly with ~ correlation coefficient of 0.96, which is statistically oc highly significant. 4.2 RMP at grey state decreases with (a) earlier rim- 8 ing of shedding motion, (b) increasing height of back y = 142.96- 0.68 X rest, and (c) changing of leasing pattern of warp r = -0 .76 0 yarns from one-by-one to two-by-two. Of these, the effect of back rest height is more pronounced. 700 4.3 RMP at grey state is related linearly with warp 50 100 tension difference at beat-up between the two warp Beat-up Tension Difference.9 shed lines with the correlation coefficients of -0.91 Fig. 9-Relationship between beat-up tension difference and and -0.76 for changes in shed timing and back rest RMP with different back rest heights height respectively and the results are statistically

significant. 4.4 When the conventional two-by-two leasing pat- -eo tern is so arranged that the warp ends of both the ~ front and back heald shafts passing through the pair ~ 40 of lease rods in the same manner pass through two

~ consecutive dents of reed (instead of the same dent), I 20 RMP .at .grey state is furthe~ reduced for the given y. 039 x- 203 shed tlmmg and back rest heIght. 0 r. 0 64 4.5 Seepage of the fabric varies linearly with RMP at

°40 60 80 00 120 140 grey state with correlation coefficeint of 0.64, which RMP.1 GreySI.I. is statistically highly significant. Fig. 10- Variation of cloth seepage with RMP References 1 Snowden D C, J Text Inst, 40 (1949) p317. dient of the strai gh t line inP. 9. hi gh Thi' d.- 2 CaldwellSAG,Fibres,10(1949)159. Ig. .I~ .er. sm I 3 TurtonG,TextWeek,53(1954)975. cates that effect of back rest posItion IS more signifi- 4 BramrnaF, J Text Inst, 46 (1955) p405. cant on the cover of the fabric as has also been 5 Spencer H C, Text Mfr, 81 (1955) 356. shown in Table 3. 6 Snowden D C, Text Prod, August 1972,4. 7 Greenwood K, Weaving: control offabric structure (Merrow 34 S Publishing Co. Ltd, England), 1975,39. .eepage .'. 8 Marks R and Robinson A T C, Principles of weaving (The

The seepage of the fabnc samples WIth different Textile Institute, Manchester), 1976, 42. loom settings and leasing patterns increases with in- 9 Snowden D C, TextAsia, 7 (1976) 51.

157