Crystal Aguh · Ginette A. Okoye Editors the Dermatologist's
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Crystal Aguh · Ginette A. Okoye Editors Fundamentals of Ethnic Hair The Dermatologist’s Perspective 123 Fundamentals of Ethnic Hair Crystal Aguh • Ginette A. Okoye Editors Fundamentals of Ethnic Hair The Dermatologist’s Perspective Editors Crystal Aguh, MD Ginette A. Okoye, MD Assistant Professor Assistant Professor Department of Dermatology Director, Ethnic Skin Program Johns Hopkins University School Department of Dermatology of Medicine Johns Hopkins University School Baltimore , MD , USA of Medicine Baltimore , MD , USA ISBN 978-3-319-45694-2 ISBN 978-3-319-45695-9 (eBook) DOI 10.1007/978-3-319-45695-9 Library of Congress Control Number: 2016955803 © Springer International Publishing Switzerland 2017 This work is subject to copyright. All rights are reserved by the Publisher, whether the whole or part of the material is concerned, specifi cally the rights of translation, reprinting, reuse of illustrations, recita- tion, broadcasting, reproduction on microfi lms or in any other physical way, and transmission or infor- mation storage and retrieval, electronic adaptation, computer software, or by similar or dissimilar methodology now known or hereafter developed. The use of general descriptive names, registered names, trademarks, service marks, etc. in this publica- tion does not imply, even in the absence of a specifi c statement, that such names are exempt from the relevant protective laws and regulations and therefore free for general use. The publisher, the authors and the editors are safe to assume that the advice and information in this book are believed to be true and accurate at the date of publication. Neither the publisher nor the authors or the editors give a warranty, express or implied, with respect to the material contained herein or for any errors or omissions that may have been made. Printed on acid-free paper This Springer imprint is published by Springer Nature The registered company is Springer International Publishing AG The registered company address is: Gewerbestrasse 11, 6330 Cham, Switzerland F o r e w o r d When Drs. Aguh and Okoye fi rst told me of their plans to publish a book about “ethnic hair,” I was enthusiastic in my support. There is a real need to educate all physicians about ethnic hair practices so that we can better evaluate and counsel our patients. As a white, male dermatologist from a small town, I can remember my sense of ignorance when I was fi rst confronted with scalp and hair problems in patients of other ethnicities. My self-education was pieced together over many years and is certainly not yet complete. We need not feel ignorant any longer, because Fundamentals of Ethnic Hair: The Dermatologist’s Perspective provides “one-stop shopping” for our self-education. The book has many strengths including a very broad scope of topics and extremely helpful images. Although the text is intended for a medically savvy audience, a professional beautician would benefi t from exposure to the basic science of ethnic hair care and to the hair loss conditions that their clients might experience. Our patients who wish to self-treat or self-educate might also fi nd this book to be a use- ful resource. The dermatologist will be gratifi ed to fi nd an explanation of the most distinctive hairstyles as well as the many “this is what it looks like” illustrations. Exhibiting some “cultural awareness” engenders trust in our patients, which trans- lates to improved compliance with treatment. The authors are to be applauded both for tackling this important subject and also for creating a very readable and “user-friendly” book. Just looking at the illustra- tions is an education in itself. Leonard Sperling, MD, Col, MC, USA (Retd.) v Pref ace Many of our patients present with complaints of hair breakage or hair loss. This is not unusual, as studies have shown that alopecia (hair loss) is among the top fi ve complaints in patients with ethnic skin. For a majority of these patients, developing a healthy hair care regimen is a critical part of the treatment plan. This requires an intimate understanding of the unique properties of ethnic hair as well as the most common hair care practices among different racial and ethnic groups. In this book, the reader will learn about the biological differences in hair struc- ture among different races as well as fi nd a detailed discussion about hairstyling practices and their potentially damaging effects on the hair. Additionally, we pro- vide practical management recommendations from a dermatologist’s perspective. We believe this book will be helpful not only to dermatologists but also to cosme- tologists, hair professionals, and anyone else who has an interest in hair care. We truly hope you enjoy our book. Crystal Aguh, MD Baltimore, MD, USA Ginette A. Okoye, MD vii Acknowle dgments The editors would like to thank their husbands, Chike Aguh and Stephen Okoye, for all of their encouragement and guidance during the writing of this book. This would not have been possible without their unwavering support. We would also like to thank Alessandra Haskin for her contributions to this book which extend far beyond the chapters she coauthored. ix Contents Part I Structure and Function of Hair 1 Chemical and Physical Properties of Hair: Comparisons Between Asian, Black, and Caucasian Hair.......................................... 3 Alice He and Ginette A. Okoye Part II Aesthetic Modifi cations of Ethnic Hair 2 Chemical Modifications of Ethnic Hair ................................................ 17 Alessandra Haskin , Ginette A. Okoye , and Crystal Aguh 3 Thermal Modifications of Ethnic Hair ................................................. 31 Alessandra Haskin , Crystal Aguh , and Ginette A. Okoye 4 Ethnic Hairstyling Practices and Hair Prostheses I: Dreadlocks ....... 43 Nashay N. Clemetson 5 Ethnic Hairstyling Practices and Hair Prostheses II: Wigs, Weaves, and Other Extensions .................................................... 53 Alessandra Haskin and Crystal Aguh 6 Ethnic Hair Care Products ..................................................................... 67 Alessandra Haskin and Crystal Aguh Part III Ethnic Hair Care: Approach to Developing a Healthy Hair Care Regimen 7 Developing a Healthy Hair Regimen I: Formulating an Optimal Cleansing and Conditioning Regimen ........ 79 Crystal Aguh 8 Developing a Healthy Hair Regimen II: Transitioning to Chemical-Free Styling (To Natural Hair) and Prevention of Hair Trauma ........................................................................................ 91 Rawn E. Bosley , Chelsea Rain St. Claire , and Kayla St. Claire xi xii Contents Part IV Hair and Scalp Disorders Secondary to Hair Care Practices 9 Seborrheic Dermatitis ............................................................................. 105 Jean-Claire Powe Dillon , Cynthia O. Anyanwu , and Katherine Omueti Ayoade 10 Scarring Alopecias Related to Hairstyling Practices ........................... 111 Alice He , Alessandra Haskin , and Ginette A. Okoye 11 Pseudofolliculitis Barbae and Acne Keloidalis Nuchae ....................... 123 Chika Agi and Rawn E. Bosley Part V Special Cultural Considerations 12 Ethnic Hair Considerations for People of African, South Asian, Muslim, and Sikh origins ....................................................................... 137 Crystal Aguh, Mamta Jhaveri, Alice He, Ginette A. Okoye, Brandon E. Cohen, and Nada Elbuluk Glossary ........................................................................................................... 151 Index ................................................................................................................. 155 Contributors Chika Agi , BS University of Pittsburgh School of Medicine , Pittsburgh , PA , USA Crystal Aguh , MD Department of Dermatology , Johns Hopkins University School of Medicine , Baltimore , MD , USA Cynthia O. Anyanwu , MD Department of Dermatology , University of Texas Southwestern Medical Center , Dallas , TX , USA Katherine Omueti Ayoade , MD, PhD Department of Dermatology , University of Texas Southwestern Medical Center , Dallas , TX , USA Rawn E. Bosley , MD Doctor’s Approach Dermatology & Surgery , Okemos , MI , USA Kayla St. Claire , BA University of Illinois at Chicago College of Medicine , Chicago , IL , USA Chelsea Rain St. Claire , BS Michigan State College of Human Medicine , Grand Rapids , MI , USA Nashay N. Clemetson , MD Department of Dermatology , The Johns Hopkins University School of Medicine , Baltimore , MD , USA Brandon E. Cohen, BS NYU School of Medicine, NY, New York Jean-Claire Powe Dillon , BS Department of Dermatology , University of Texas Southwestern Medical Center , Dallas , TX , USA Nada Elbuluk , MD Ronald O. Perelman Department of Dermatology , New York University , New York , NY , USA Alessandra Haskin , BA Howard University College of Medicine , Washington , DC , USA Alice He , BS Johns Hopkins University School of Medicine , Baltimore , MD , USA Mamta Jhaveri , MD, MS Department of Dermatology , Johns Hopkins University School of Medicine , Baltimore , MD , USA Ginette A. Okoye, MD Department of Dermatology , Johns Hopkins University School of Medicine , Baltimore , MD , USA xiii P a r t I Structure and Function of Hair Chemical and Physical Properties of Hair: Comparisons Between Asian, Black, 1 and Caucasian Hair Alice He and Ginette A. Okoye Introduction Although the fundamental structure and function of the hair are similar among all races, there are important anatomic and molecular differences that contribute to the unique characteristics