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Each original is also photographed in one exposure and is included in reduced form at the back of the book. Photographs included in the original manuscript have been reproduced xerographically in this copy. Higher quality 6” x 9” black and white photographic prints are available for any photographs or illustrations appearing in this copy for an additional charge. Contact UMI directly to order. UMI A Bell & Howell Information Company 300 North Zeeb Road, Ann Aibor MI 48106-1346 USA 313/761-4700 800/521-0600 “ DEM CAA DRESS YAH! ” DRESS AS RESISTANCE AND ACCOMMODATION AMONG JAMAICAN WOMEN FROM SLAVERY TO FREEDOM, 1760 - 1890. DISSERTATION Presented in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for The Degree Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of The Ohio State University By Steeve O Buckridge, B.A., M.A. ***** The Ohio State University 1998 Dissertation Committee: Professor Claire Robertson, Adviser Approved by Professor Leila Rupp Professor Ahmad Sikainga Department of History Graduate Program Professor Gwendolyn O’ Neal UMI Number: 9900804 Copyright 1998 by Buckridge, Steeve Oliver All rights reserved. UMI Microform 9900804 Copyright 1998, by UMI Company. All rights reserved. This microform edition is protected against unauthorized copying under Title 17, United States Code. UMI 300 North Zeeb Road Ann Arbor, MI 48103 Copyright by Steeve Oliver Buckridge 1998 ABSTRACT This project is a study of how dress functioned as an instrument of both resistance to slavery and accommodation to white culture in pre- and post-emancipation Jamaican society. Further, the project will illuminate the complexities of accommodation and resistance, showing that these responses were not polar opposites, but melded into each other. This analysis will enhance our knowledge of the Black Atlantic, the role of British colonialism within the Caribbean, and the impact of the diaspora on African women. Meanwhile, the focus on dress will stimulate further scholarly work on women’s material culture, the role of women in British West Indian history, and African women’s ability to maintain expressive cultural strategies as a means of survival. The subjects of this study are slave and freed women who lived in British colonial Jamaica and were African or of African descent. I argue that these women had some control over their clothing whether as resistors or accommodators and they were able to maintain and nurture African cultural characteristics in their dress. I also discuss the aesthetic value of West African women’s dress and the African customs in dress that were brought to Jamaica by African slaves. I explore how these customs in dress were nurtured and maintained. I show that changes in dress occurred from slavery to emancipation, from more African modes to more European-influenced styles that accompanied greater possibilities for social mobility. This study also includes a discussion of carnival dress as an example of simultaneous resistance and accommodation expressed in ambiguous meanings, and the role of dress in contemporary Jamaican society. The inter-disciplinary nature of this study is heightened by the use of primary and secondary sources, deriving not only from history and women studies, but also from anthropology, social psychology, historical linguistics and textiles and clothing. My findings are not definitive, but rather suggestive as to how dress, as an artifact and a part of material culture can be used to communicate aspects of women’s lives such as gender relations, identity, and class within the Jamaican plantocracy. Ill Dedicated to my mother, Mildred, who taught me to serve God, to reach for the stars, and to love with all my heart! IV ACKNOWLEDGMENT My God My All... All things are possible with God. There is an old Jamaican proverb, “one one coco full basket,” meaning that the contributions of each person, no matter how small, will contribute to success. An acknowledgment is a testament to this truth. I wish to thank my adviser, Claire Robertson, for her guidance, mentoring and encouragement. I also wish to extend my sincere appreciation to the other members of my committee, Drs. Leila Rupp, Ahmad Sikainga and Gwendolyn O’Neal for their intellectual support. My deep appreciation to the staff and faculty of The Ohio State University History department, and the Graduate school for their help throughout the years. I am grateful to the C.I.C., G S A R A and the Elizabeth Gee Fellowship Foundations for supporting my doctoral studies. My gratitude to the staff of the West Indies Collection, The University of the West Indies Library, The National Archives of Jamaica, the Institute of Jamaica and The National Library of Jamaica for their assistance during my field research. Many thanks to Professor Rex Nettleford, Pro-Vice Chancellor of The University of The West Indies, Dr. Olive Lewin, director of the Jamaican Folk singers, and Mrs. Muriel Whynn of the Moore Town Maroon descendants for their time, and willingness to share their ideas and stories with me. My appreciation to Dr. Verene Shepherd for her guidance, and the staff of the History department at the University of the West Indies for all their help. Many thanks also to Glory Robertson, Barry Higman, the Jamaica Historical Society and the A.C.H. members who offered valuable advice on this project during the 1998 conference in Suriname. My sincere thanks to Donald Sgontz and Lynne Matthaes for all their help and patience throughout the research process. Finally, I would like to acknowledge my friends, family members, particularly the women of my family who both inspired and molded me. I thank them for their prayers, unbounded support and most of all their unconditional love. VI VITA December 15, 1964 ...........................................Born - Kingston, Jamaica W.I. 1990..................................................................... B. A. History, Barry University 1993..................................................................... M. A. History, University of Miami 1993-1998........................................................... Instructor Columbus State Community College Columbus, Ohio USA 1997-winter/spring ............................................. Instructor The Ohio State University FIELDS OF STUDY Major Field; History Studies in African History, Caribbean History and Women’s History VII TABLE OF CONTENTS Page Abstract.......................................................................................................................................ii Dedication ................................................................................................................................. iv Acknowledgments .....................................................................................................................v Vita............................................................................................................................................vii List of Figures...........................................................................................................................ix Chapters; 1. Introduction ......................................................................................................................... 1 2. The Crossing..................................................................................................................... 23 3. Dress As Resistance .........................................................................................................79 4. Dress As Accommodation ............................................................................................. 124 5. Conclusion ...................................................................................................................... 202 Bibliography...........................................................................................................................233 vin LIST OF FIGURES Figure Page 2.1 The Origin of Jamaican Slaves and map of West Africa................................................................................................ 24 2.2 Map of contemporary Jamaica ................................................................................36 2.3 Freedwoman in veil made from back lace...................................................................................................................58 2.4 Negro Mode of Nursing ..........................................................................................61 3.1 The slave and freedwoman’s head wrap ............................................................... 102 3.2