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Contents 1 Holidays Before the Fall. Croatian Hotel Architecture Seen Acknowledgements Imprint Contents This publication is produced by Tracing Spaces © 2013 by ovis Verlag GmbH, the authors, Vienna based on the research project ‘Holidays after photographers and Tracing Spaces. the Fall: Urban and architectural transformation Texts by kind permission of the authors. processes of South-East European leisure peripher- All rights reserved. ies’ (Urlaub nach dem Fall — Transformationspro- 1 Holidays before the Fall. Croatian hotel architecture zesse südosteuropäischer Freizeitperipherien) Every effort has been made to identify all rights conducted at the Institute for Building Typology holders before publication. We would ask any rights seen through the lens of the Turistkomerc Agency (Institut für Gebäudelehre), Faculty of Architecture, holders we did not manage to contact to get in touch Graz University of Technology. Chair of the Institute: with the editor. in the 1970s Prof. Hans Gangoly. Research team: Elke Beyer, Anke Hagemann, Maroje Mrduljaš, Norbert Cover photo: Boris Magaš Mappes-Niediek, Michael Zinganel. Photographic essays: Nikola Mihov and 22 Maps of Croatia and Bulgaria ccn-images Zagreb The editors would like to thank: Zoran Balog, Dafne Illustrations and maps: Kerstin Stramer, Berc, Luchezar Boyadjiev, Todor Bulev, Antonia Dika, Anke Hagemann and Michael Hieslmayr 25 Introduction Ninoslav Dusper, Milena Filcheva, Michael Hieslmair, Translation and editing: Jill Denton Kim Förster, Ana Jeinić, Dubravka Kisić, Torange Copy-editing: Helen Carter Khonsari, Anne Kockelkorn, Peyo Kolev, David Graphic concept, layout and typesetting: Liaudet, Liliya Lutskanova, Nikola Mihov, Vedran Studio Katja Gretzinger Michael Zinganel and Elke Beyer Mimica, Johannes Pointl, Emiliya Popova, Karin (Gianni Fabris, Katja Gretzinger, Thomas Maier) 35 ‘Beside the seaside...’ Architectures of a modern Taylor, Wolfgang Thaler, Saša Žanko, and Philipp Type: Abbi Beta Sperrle at ovis Verlag. Printing and binding: REMAprint Druck- und global longing Verlagsges. m. b. H., Wien The project has been funded by the Amt der Steier- märkischen Landesregierung, Abteilung 9 — Kultur, Bibliographic information published by the Deutsche Österreichische Forschungsgesellschaft, Bundes- Nationalbibliothek ministerium für Unterricht, Kunst und Kultur and The Deutsche Nationalbibliothek lists this publication The Bulgarian Black Sea Coast ERSTE Stiftung. in the Deutsche Nationalbiblio grafie; detailed bibliographic data are available on the internet at http://dnb.d-nb.de Elke Beyer and Anke Hagemann ovis Verlag GmbH 57 Sun, Sea, Sand... and Architecture. How Bulgaria’s Black Sea Kurfürstenstraße 15 / 16 10785 Berlin coast was turned into a tourist product www.jovis.de ovis books are available worldwide in selected Case Studies bookstores. Please contact your nearest bookseller or visit www.jovis.de for information concerning your 119 Holiday House of the Miners, Druzhba local distribution. Hotel Journalist, Chayka ISBN 978-3-86859-226-9 Bar-Varieté, Sunny Beach Hotel Sozopol-Nessebar and Hotel Kontinental, Sunny Beach Hotel Cherno More, Sunny Beach Russalka Elite, near Balchik The Hilton Varna, Golden Sands Irakli Beach Dom Neofit, Neofit Rilski The Croatian Adriatic Michael Zinganel 155 From ‘Social Tourism’ to a Mass Market Consumer Paradise. On the democratization and commodification of seaside tourism in Croatia Maroje Mrduljaš 171 Building the Affordable Arcadia. Tourism development on the Croatian Adriatic coast under state socialism Norbert Mappes-Niediek 209 A Thorny Thicket. The singular case of workers’ self-management and long-drawn-out privatization in Croatian tourism Case Studies 223 Hotel Marjan, Split Hotel Pelegrin, Kupari Hotel Libertas, Dubrovnik Babin Kuk, Dubrovnik Sun Gardens, Orašac Punta Skala, Zadar Hotels Eden and Lone, Rovinj Haludovo Resort, Malinska 253 Author’s Biographies 254 Image Credits Nikola Mihov 257 Holidays after the Fall. The Bulgarian Black Sea coast in 2012. Case study locations High-speed boats and ferry lines International airports Important cities, coastal towns and Important traffic routes harbours AU STRIA RO MANIA Maribor HU NGARy ITALy Ljubljana Trieste S LOVENIA Zagreb Venice Umag Rijeka CROATIA Poreč Opatija Rovinj Malinska Bucharest Rabac Pula Constanța Lošinj Rousse Pleven Balchik BOSNIA– Neofit Rilski Russalka Petrčane Albena HERZEGOVINA Zlatni Pyasatsi (Golden Sands) Zadar Veliko Tarnovo Varna Sv. Konstantin i Elena (Druzhba) Ancona Sarajevo Šibenik Primošten Byala BU LGARIA Obsor Irakli Split Sofia Slanchev Bryag (Sunny Beach) Brela Burgas Krvavice Stara Zagora Sozopol Hvar Primorsko Tsarevo Plovdiv Pescara Korčula Orašac Dubrovnik Kupari Mlini Plat Cavtat GR EECE Istanbul I TALy Thessaloniki Bari TU RKEY 100 km Introduction Elke Beyer, Anke Hagemann and Michael Zinganel This book goes to print at a time when critical discussion about tourism development (and the sometimes reckless neglect, in recent years, of regulatory planning) is on the rise in Bulgaria and Croatia. Although their political paths and planning cultures have radically diverged in state socialist and capitalist contexts, the two countries now face the same issues: firstly, how best to develop and maintain their respective coastal regions, both as a vital economic resource and as a natural and cultural asset accessible to all and secondly, how to evaluate the (built) legacies of the state socialist era. Architects and historians are starting to once again appreciate the urban planning guidelines and modernist architectures established by the socialist states. Moreover, for many people the beach and the sea evoke strong memories of summertime leisure and freedom in more egalitarian times. The loss of, or threats to, these recreational spaces — the sell off of resources once ‘owned by the people’, or the permanent crises of the capitalist economy — therefore spark widespread discontent. In Bulgaria, a broad coalition of civic stakeholders and activists has been protesting for years against dubious tourism developments in protected environ- ments, while architects such as Todor Bulev or Pavel Popov have openly voiced criticism of the architecture profession’s complicity in over- exploitation of the coast.1 In Croatia, architects and activists have 1 ‘Human beings love and cherish the deplored the non-regulated sprawl of private sea because of what it is — planet Earth in holiday homes and the intransparent rezoning the first person singular. This is why exces- sive building at the coast and the super- of coastal areas following their privatization. size of what has been built here is a crime. From a legal perspective, architects’ It must be emphasized that neither Bul- complicity in this act is a crime, too. [...] garia’s nor Croatia’s intensive development of a In the name of profit we stole the sea from the people and placed it at the disposal of coastal region was ever an isolated local phe- business, allegedly for the good of the country.’ Pavel Popov, ‘The architecture nomenon; rather, it was closely bound up with of seaside resorts’, Abitare (Sofia), 2012, transnational streams of tourists and invest- no. 017 (Nov / Dec), pp. 72–85, quotes pp. 73–75. ments. Just as holidays on the Black Sea coast 25 consequence of further tourism industry growth, and advocating more and Anke Hagemann discuss different phases of urban planning and effective regulatory and planning mechanisms.13 As Maroje Mrduljaš architectural development in Bulgarian seaside resorts. In six chapters and Michael Zinganel explain in their contributions to this volume, some devoted to individual resorts, they demonstrate how radically both people believe Croatia may count itself lucky, given that the interplay public images and architectural interpretations of Bulgaria’s Black Sea of various factors prevented its Adriatic coast being as disastrously coast — the ‘tourist product’ — have shifted from era to era, from the disfigured by overdevelopment and architectural monstrosities as first centrally planned holiday resorts of the late 1950s through to the certain more investor-friendly regions of Spain, Bulgaria or Montenegro. 1970s mass resorts, from different models of privatization to the con- To keep things that way, and to steer further development by im plement- sequences of ‘boom and bust’ construction on the Black Sea coast ing well-thought-out, sustainable architectural and urban planning today. The second section on Croatian tourism architecture consists of concepts is certainly nothing less than crucial to Croatia’s future as a three chapters with different thematic approaches: Michael Zinganel tourism destination. describes the transition from ‘social tourism’ — the ‘ideologically sound’ state-subsidized workers’ holiday — to market-oriented, commercial Synopsis mass tourism. Maroje Mrduljaš traces the planning history of socialist mass tourism resorts on the Croatian Adriatic. His contribution, in Thus, the focus of this volume is the initial construction and use of combination with a series of analytical drawings by Kerstin Stramer explicitly modern leisure resorts and hotels, as well as the various and Michael Zinganel, explores how different architectural typologies metamorphoses they have undergone in the intervening decades, from were used to integrate hotel buildings in the landscape, and how the planning processes initiated in the state socialist era through to their specially commissioned modernist interiors fostered innovative post-socialist restructuring. The contributions compiled here address design. Norbert
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