International Journal of Management (IJM) Volume 12, Issue 1, January 2021, pp. 358-366. Article ID: IJM_12_01_030 Available online at http://iaeme.com/Home/issue/IJM?Volume=12&Issue=1 Journal Impact Factor (2020): 10.1471 (Calculated by GISI) www.jifactor.com ISSN Print: 0976-6502 and ISSN Online: 0976-6510 DOI: 10.34218/IJM.12.1.2021.030

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MATERNITY WEAR PRACTICES OF RURAL AND PERI-URBAN WOMEN: AN ASSESSMENT OF KNOWLEDGE AND ATTITUDES

Anuradha N.Yadav Ph. D. Scholars in (Design/Tech./Mgmt.), Amity University, Mumbai, India

Dr Bhawana Chanana Director of Fashion (Design/Tech./Mgmt.), Amity University, Mumbai, India

ABSTRACT Maternity wear is an inevitable need for the pregnant women to adapt themselves to the pregnancy driven major bodily changes. Modern day maternity wear not just ensures the comfort of the expecting mothers but also enhances the fashion appeal thereby allowing to retain the self-identity. Comfort in combination with style makes maternity wear the most sought after solutions for the pregnant women. However, till date the timely use of appropriate maternity wear is more prevalent in the urban areas as opposed to the rural and peri-urban areas. The current study thus intends to assess the popularity of maternity wear among the rural and peri-urban women.

Key words: Maternity Wear, maternity fashion, accessibility, comfort, rural, peri-urban Cite this Article: Anuradha N.Yadav and Bhawana Chanana, Maternity Wear Practices of Rural and Peri-Urban Women: An assessment of Knowledge and Attitudes, International Journal of Management, 12(1), 2021, pp 358-366. http://iaeme.com/Home/issue/IJM?Volume=12&Issue=1

1. INTRODUCTION Pregnancy in women ushers in multiple physical, biological, and psychological changes. The changes in terms of body structure are the most notable ones. The body weight increases drastically as the mother not just carries the child in her womb but is also responsible for providing the nourishment to the child. Hence, the intake of food increases during the pregnancy phase as opposed to the normal daily diet routines. Specific nutritional guidelines intended for pregnant women recommend an addition of 300 kcal to the existing daily calorie intake. Increased calorie intake reflects in the overall weight of the mother (Morais et al.,

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2017). Typically, the extent of weight gain during pregnancy may vary from 5 pounds to over 100 pounds. Additionally, breast size also grows significantly. Biological changes include increase in the blood volume by 40-50%, increased levels of aldosterone resulting in a 50% increase in the plasma, and 20-30% increase in the volume of red blood cells (RBCs) (Power et al., 2018). The major shift in the hormonal levels during pregnancy induces changes in the psychological behavior of pregnant women. The mother may experience frequent episodes of mood swings and impulsive and anxiety shocks. The increased levels of emotional turmoil and multiple bodily changes impact the overall life of the mother significantly (Talmon & Ginzburg, 2018; Watson et al., 2016; Morais et al., 2017). Although the impact is not a negative one, it is natural for the mother to feel stressed about the overall changes experienced during the pregnancy phase. It is imperative that measures are taken to enhance the feel-good quotient. One of the effective approaches could be the use of maternity wear solutions. Maternity wear can be defined as specially designed clothing that is intended for increasing the comfort level of pregnant women without compromising with the style. Comfort in combination with style makes maternity wear the most sought after clothing solutions for pregnant women. However, till date the timely use of appropriate maternity wear is more prevalent in the urban areas as opposed to the rural and peri-urban areas. The current study thus intends to assess the popularity of maternity wear among rural and peri-urban women.

2. AIM AND OBJECTIVES The aim of the study is to assess the trends of maternity wear in modern society and the accessibility among rural and peri-urban women. The objectives are as follows-  To assess, investigate, and establish various bodily changes during pregnancy in relation to garments.  To study the most common choice of garment styles during the maternity period.  To assess the differences in maternity wear accessibility.  To assess the preponderance of maternity wear among rural and peri-urban women.

3. LITERATURE REVIEW 3.1. Bodily Changes during Pregnancy Pregnancy involves a myriad of changes within the body. Apart from the standard changes, the exact changes during pregnancy are dynamic and may change from one person to the other. Multiple researches have been conducted over the years to review the bodily changes that the mother undergoes during the pregnancy phase. Skouteris et al., (2005) in their study identified the factors that led to body dissatisfaction among the pregnant women. In this regard the authors anticipated higher levels of depression, social pressure, body shaming, and self-consciousness of the public would pose as the prospective predictors of body dissatisfaction among the pregnant women. To substantiate the same a questionnaire based survey was conducted involving 128 healthy pregnant women at four time points, prior to pregnancy, early pregnancy phase, mid pregnancy phase, and late pregnancy phase. Responses revealed that women adapted themselves to the changes during different phases of pregnancy. However, adapting to the bodily changes was the most during the early to mid- second trimester. In terms of predictors that further complexed the pregnancy related bodily dissatisfaction comprised both social and psychological factors. Another study by Clark et al., (2009) reported dissatisfaction among the pregnant women while they attempted to positively adapt themselves to the pregnancy related body changes postpartum. Although, the body functionality and new sense of life during the pregnancy phase averted the negative thoughts

http://iaeme.com/Home/journal/IJM 359 [email protected] Anuradha N.Yadav and Bhawana Chanana concerning the physical changes of the body such as weight gain, lack of the similar feelings post-birth emerged to be a concern and a source of societal and personal dissatisfaction. Watson et al., (2016) in their study focussed on the body image experiences faced by the pregnant women. To fulfil the study objectives the authors conducted structured interviews with nineteen pregnant women. Conducting a thematic analysis, the study identified five distinct themes. The first revealed that the experiences perceived by the pregnant women concerning the body image were complex and dynamic. The women perceived mixed feelings dominated by both joy and discontentment, about their body changes. The second theme proposed on recognising the functionality of the body, the women were capable of negotiating with the pregnancy induced bodily changes. The third theme concerns the amusement among the pregnant women concerning the nature of the public towards a pregnant body. The fourth theme highlighted the importance of support from the partner. Pregnant women highly valued partner support. Finally, the last theme proposed the need and importance of open communication concerning the weight and body image issues in antenatal healthcare. In the concluding remarks the authors opined that the holistic understanding of the women's experiences during pregnancy necessitates adaptation and expansion of the existing body image theories. Morais et al., (2017) in their study evaluated the relationship between changes in the body mass index (BMI) percentile and perinatal outcomes. To fulfil the study objectives a cross- sectional study was employed involving 1,279 women. Medical charts, prenatal cards, and interviews were the research instruments used for collecting data during the postpartum period concerning the following factors- weight gain during the gestational period, sociodemographic characteristics, and perinatal outcomes. Based on the Atalah curve, a reference curve that utilizes BMI of the pregnant women to gauge their nutritional status, classified women into the following four categories- low weight, adequate weight, overweight, and obese. Comparing the BMI of the pregnant women for the first and last prenatal care visits, the study revealed that 19.9% of the pregnant women experienced an increase in the BMI category as per the Atalah classification. Highest increase in the BMI points was noted for the obese category (6.4 points). However, the chances of increase in the BMI was lower for women who possessed high school education. The chances of cesarean (C) section delivery and/or fetal macrosomia was higher for the women who reported increase in the Atalah classification. The authors thus concluded that the BMI of the pregnant women had far reaching impacts during the time of delivery and that education level of the mothers influenced maintenance of the appropriate BMI during pregnancy.

3.2. Maternity Fashion Liminal transitions, refers to the instability and ambiguity that occur throughout the lifespan and is identified as a significant period of transition during the course life where an individual's identity may remain suspended. During this phase the individual's consumption and possessions emerges as a symbol for self-representation. In women, a major liminal transition occurs during the phase of pregnancy. Self identity in women is completely redefined and negotiated owing to the dramatic changes encountered by the body. Women may be ambivalent concerning the pregnancy induced bodily changes and seek for possessions that could help them retain their self-identity (Tonner, 2015; Earle, 2003; Johnson et al., 2004). Maternity clothing and maternity fashion plays a significant role in defining self- identity during the pregnancy phase. A study by Ogle et al., (2013) explored the experiences of pregnant women concerning consumption during the liminal transition phase. The study specifically focussed on the consumption of maternity and attempted to gauge the role of maternity dress in shaping

http://iaeme.com/Home/journal/IJM 360 [email protected] Maternity Wear Practices of Rural and Peri-Urban Women: An assessment of Knowledge and Attitudes the self-identity that is highly compromised during the liminal transition of pregnancy. To fulfil the study objectives the authors adopted a qualitative research approach with in-depth interviews as the research instrument for collecting data from 15 mid aged women expecting their first child. Analysing the data, it was observed that consumption of maternity dress had a mixed impact on women. Three distinct themes that generated from the perceptions of the pregnant women encompassing maternity wear are as follows- maternity wear disrupted the women‟s true sense of self, maternity wear imparted a new identity that reflects soon-to-be- mother, and maternity dress to retain the self-identity or usual sense of self. The authors thus concluded that despite the complex nature associated with the consumption of maternity dress during pregnancy-related liminal transition, during the role transition phase it indeed helps to incite and relieve ambivalence. Initially, maternity wear has not been a separate class of clothing market. But over time it managed to make its separate identity keeping in mind the women‟s specific requirements to the bodily changes embraced during the pregnancy period. In the early 20th century, increased attention of the media towards pregnant celebrities and the increasing trend of women continuing to work even during pregnancy brought maternity fashion into the limelight. Soon the concept of maternity wear got transformed into maternity fashion. The purpose of maternity fashion has been holistic. It not just prioritizes the comfort of the mother but also takes into account the fashion quotient of the maternity wear. Nash, (2012) claimed that in the initial days, maternity clothing could be referred to as mere curtains that were intended for covering up the belly growth. However, presently, situations are completely otherwise. Women are more forward going and prefer to work even during their pregnancy. In modern society, pregnancy has emerged from the conventional notion of being hidden to a condition that is to be embraced with confidence. Pregnant women of the 21st century are proud of their state and thus look forward to fashionable maternity outfits that could further add on to their self-identity. Lapolla & Chen, (2017) considered maternity clothing trends under the fast fashion category as it is only worn by the mothers worn for a short period of time. The authors advocated that the increased exposure of pregnancy has transformed maternity fashion completely. Given the prevailing trend wherein pregnant women are working up till late in their pregnancy course there has been an inevitable need for maternity apparels that are comfortable, stylish, and at the same time suitable for multiple occasions. In this regard, the study conducted a qualitative survey to fathom the design opportunities that are favourable for the maternity market. The authors prompted the greater need for direct communication between the end users and designers of maternity wear to better understand the expectations of the pregnant women concerning maternity fashion. A recent study by Hwang et al., (2020) concerning the designing of maternity hospital . The authors contemplated that the conventional design for maternity hospital gowns, one-size-fits-all with full back openings, often makes the women both physically and emotionally uncomfortable. The current study thus investigated the predictors of designing a functional maternity hospital . The researchers developed a two-piece maternity gown with adjustable and washable nursing breast pad and conducted a wear testing compounded with an online survey. Results of the study revealed the new prototype to be comfortable both physically and psychologically during the different stages of labor and postpartum. The significance of the study from its relevance in addressing the gaps in the existing maternity wear design and the development of a novel maternity gown that takes into account the perspectives and preferences of both patients and practitioners.

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3.3. Maternity Wear Women experience multiple bodily changes during the entire phase of pregnancy of which weight gain undoubtedly has been the most pressing concern. The unavoidable body changes have necessitated a change in the wardrobe as well. Maternity wear is intended to address the women clothing demand during pregnancy. Maternity wear is a garment that is specifically designed for pregnant women to enhance their comfort levels. Appropriate choice of clothes during pregnancy have been reported to play a vital role in the prenatal care. The more comfortable the maternity clothes are, the greater is the health status of the pregnant women. Designing of maternity wear holds key importance in the success of maternity wear. In general, from the design perspective maternity wear can be defined as a functional garment that specifically addresses the anthropometric growth experienced by the body during pregnancy. Unlike the regular garments, the maternity clothes are designed to provide room that accommodates the growing waist, tummy, hip, and bust of the pregnant women. Although during the first two months of pregnancy the women may not feel the need for dedicated maternity wear, but during the second and third trimester when the body undergoes the maximum modifications, maternity wear becomes inevitable to ensure continuity of the daily chores. An effective maternity wear is the one that prioritises comfort at the first point. The key factors that pregnant women are usually advised while purchasing maternity wear are as follows (Tian, 2018; Rodriguez et al., 2017)-  Stretchy Clothes: Since during pregnancy the major change is the increase in the body weight, the stretchability of the clothes undoubtedly poses as the key defining factor of the maternity clothes. Women need to acknowledge that an increase in body weight is a part of pregnancy and that one must embrace it. Since the body changes through each trimester, stretchy clothes are the best suitable alternatives as it provides the provision of being flexible.  Ruching fabrics: The increase in the belly size is well supported by ruching fabrics. The increased favorability for ruching fabrics emerges from its suitability for every body type. Since such fabrics are comfortable yet not being loose, they are highly preferred by pregnant women who look out for maternity wear that are both comfortable and fashionable at the same time.  Thinking beyond pregnancy: While selecting maternity wear, women must keep in mind that the are intended for a specific span of time and hence one should know their priorities and need prior to the purchase. Further, the postpartum need of the body should also be prioritised. Maternity wear that supports nursing and breastfeeding are more suitable owing to their relevance during both pregnancy and postpartum phases. The initial notion of maternity wear intended for just comfort has been completely revolutionized in the modern day world. Expectant women now continue their work with equal expertise in the corporate and household tasks. Although comfort has still been a priority for the pregnant women of modern society, they now seek alternative clothing that are fashionable and help retain their self-identity. Some of the most common choices in terms of maternity wear among the working women are as follows (Sarkar & Rasel, 2017; Ho et al., 2009)-  A Flowy : A flowy blouse is a versatile option preferred by many working women owing to the increased comfort and enhanced fashion quotient. It is a highly versatile option suitable for being worn to workplaces. The same could be also combined with a and to have a great work outfit appeal.

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 Maternity Pants: The pants are highly crucial as it rests round the tummy. Maternity pants are specially designed loose pants that are adaptable to the pregnancy induced body changes. Maternity pants are more or less similar in design and can be paired with pretty much any maternity .  A Blazer: For the women working in the corporate sector, a blazer is a must-have. Since are front open and are complemented with tops they do not interfere with the body changes during pregnancy. A blazer certainly enhances the fashion quotient of maternity wear.  A : During the winter, a loose cardigan could be a suitable maternity garment choice for pregnant women as it not just protects the expecting mother from the cold weather but also ensures both comfort and fashion appeal. During the normal season, that is, apart from winter, for women working in offices that have AC running all day, one can complement the overall look with a light cardigan to enhance the comfort level.  Dress: One piece flowy dresses are indeed the best choice for maternity wear. Such dresses are not just comfortable for performing the daily chores but are also significantly high on the fashion quotient. Undoubtedly, dresses have been the most favourable choice for pregnant women.

3.4. Benefits of Maternity Wear Pregnancy associated physiological and psychological changes have a significant impact on the overall perception of the women concerning their body shape and size. It influences the perceived satisfaction levels, evaluation of the appearance, and the choice of garments. Estimates have revealed that 80% of the pregnant women suffer from physiological discomforts owing to the body changes during pregnancy. The extent of discomfort may range from moderate to severe levels depending upon the woman‟s gestation and the physiological makeup. Appropriate maternity wear at the right time of the pregnancy phase helps women overcome the discomfort stemming from the pregnancy induced biological and structural changes (Quintero Rodriguez et al., 2017). Sultana & Tabraz, (2017) in their study titled- “A Critical Analysis of The Satisfaction Level of Maternity wear For Bangladeshi women'' assessed the satisfaction level of the pregnant women concerning maternity wear. To fulfill the study objectives, the authors conducted a questionnaire based survey. The key findings of the study revealed that appropriately designed maternity clothes enhanced the comfort level of the mothers. There was a high acceptability for maternity wear among the pregnant women. The designs and materials proposed in the study for maternity clothing were highly appreciated by the respondents and they acknowledged that maternity wear solutions aided in significant reduction of pregnancy-associated discomfort. However, the clothes were expensive and often out of reach of the common women.

3.5. Popularity of Maternity Wear The popularity of maternity wear could be gauged from the increasing acceptance of the same among the women of all strata in both developing and developed worlds. A report by Fibre2Fashion, (2014) in January 2014 revealed increased involvement of the big and renowned brands in the designing of maternity wear solutions. The brands have been continuously improvising to keep up to the dynamic changes in the preferences of pregnant women over time. The specific factors that are highly prioritized by the brands to ensure the creation of a separate niche market for pregnant women are design, fabric, size, color, style, and fashion. In developed countries like the United States of America (USA), the demand for

http://iaeme.com/Home/journal/IJM 363 [email protected] Anuradha N.Yadav and Bhawana Chanana maternity wears increased in leaps and bounds. Estimates from the Global Industry Analysts revealed a potential of $4.8 billion business in 2015 for the maternity apparel market in the U.S.A. The increasing demand for maternity wear was justified by the growing number of women who continued working during the pregnancy period. Thus initial preference of women for women that only prioritized comfort has now transformed into the demand for both comfortable and fashionable maternity clothing. Maternity wear also has made its entry into the online retail market. Some of the major online retail brands such as Gap, Myntra, H&M, Forever 21, Amazon, and Wal-Mart are now listing a wide variety of maternity wear options that pregnant women could purchase as per their needs at the comfort of their home. To attain a greater hold on the market, manufacturers have been keeping a keen eye on the fabric of the garments. The most commonly used fabrics that have managed to receive greater acceptance from the customers include fabrics that are organic, natural, and eco-friendly. However, the use of such fabrics raises the price of the products allowing only a few women with strong socio-economic backgrounds to access the same. Region-wise analysis of maternity wear acceptance revealed a greater preponderance of maternity wear in western countries like the USA. Although in Asian countries like India, Bangladesh, and China the demand for maternity wear has been substantially low, it is expected that the changing work trends among the pregnant women and greater exposure to global fashion owing to the increased media coverage would undoubtedly enhance the market for maternity wear in the near future. A comparatively recent report claimed the global market valuation for maternity wear in the year 2018 was USD 18.3 billion. It was further anticipated that the market for maternity wear would further grow at a compound annual growth rate of 4.3% between 2019 to 2025. The enabling factor towards the large scale growth of the maternity clothing market was the increased focus on maternity fashion and the growing trend of women working during pregnancy in the developing countries (Grand View Research, 2019).

4. RESEARCH GAP Maternity wear has been a popular trend among urban women. However, its penetration within the rural and peri-urban community has been sparse. The primary intent behind the emergence of maternity wear was to enhance the comfort levels of pregnant women thus allowing them to execute their work at the highest comfort level. Currently, women in the rural and peri-urban areas are also engaging themselves in different forms of work. This study intends to investigate the knowledge status of the rural and peri-urban women on the existence and significance of maternity wear in the pregnancy phase. Further, their attitude and practice toward the same would also be assessed so as to perceive their perceptions on maternity wear.

5. CONCLUSION Maternity wear can be defined as specially designed clothing that is intended for increasing the comfort level of the pregnant women without compromising with the style. Comfort in combination with style makes maternity wear the most sought after clothing solutions for pregnant women. Women experience multiple bodily changes during the entire phase of pregnancy of which weight gain undoubtedly has been the most pressing concern. The unavoidable body changes have necessitated a change in the wardrobe as well. Maternity wear is intended to address the women‟s clothing demand during pregnancy. Appropriate maternity wear at the right time of the pregnancy phase helps women overcome the discomfort stemming from the pregnancy-induced biological and structural changes. The traditional maternity clothing that were mere curtains to accommodate the belly growth and

http://iaeme.com/Home/journal/IJM 364 [email protected] Maternity Wear Practices of Rural and Peri-Urban Women: An assessment of Knowledge and Attitudes just addressed the comfort aspect does not hold relevance in modern society. Women are more forward going and prefer to work late in their pregnancy phase. Pregnancy has emerged from the conventional notion of being hidden to a condition that is to be embraced with confidence. Thus, there has been a rising demand for maternity wear among pregnant women from both developed and developing countries. Maternity wear is an inevitable need for the pregnant women to adapt themselves to the pregnancy driven major bodily changes. Modern-day maternity wear not just ensures the comfort of the expecting mothers but also enhances the fashion appeal thereby allowing to retain the self-identity. Although the current study intended to ascertain the popularity and acceptance of maternity wear among the rural and peri-urban women, we came across no specific study that specifically focuses on the rural and peri-urban women. Since the current study is a review, conducting a survey to ascertain the accessibility and affordability of maternity wear among the rural and peri-urban women has been out of scope. Future studies should consider implementing a survey approach to shed light on the preponderance and accessibility of maternity wear among rural and peri-urban women.

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