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Clyde Minaret HIGH SIERRA 2013 Purchase / ToDo’s for Nevada / California: Topo map of area 227g fuel canister; blend for cold Hurricane matches Fire-starter gel Lighter 1 liter bottle Questions: Take my orange day pack? Coffee preference? Got two water bottles Sorry - no table of contents! The rough order is: * reminders when I get to Las Vegas (pgs 1 & 18); * beta for Clyde Minaret (pgs 2-16, 19 & 20); * the overall itinerary for both Clyde Minaret and the SHR (pg 17) - any comments welcome; * Howard's notes about camping contingencies regarding camping at Sabrina Lake; * SHR beta (pgs 22-29); * Bill's flight info (pg 30) Page 1 of 30 HIGH SIERRA 2013 Clyde Minaret Latitude: 37.6604 Longitude: -119.174 Elevation: 12281 Description Clyde Minaret is named after Norman Clyde, the High Sierras most prolific first ascensionist. It is a very fine peak made from, not granite, but a more ancient metamorphic rock, which gives it its characteristic, almost non-Sierra-like shape of a sharp needle (as seen from the ski slopes of Mammoth). Its dark triangular SE face is home to a great classic rock climb. Getting There Red's Meadow is the trailhead. Get their either by shuttle bus from Mammoth during the day, or arrive by car late at night. Head north on the John Muir Trail at first, then cut left (west) onto an obvious trail which leads to Minaret Lake. On the bench above this lake lies Cecile Lake (10,246ft), where there are limited campsites (7.75 miles, 2,700ft elevation gain). [ 30 Aug 2013: Sunrise @ 6:24 AM; Sunset @ 19:28 PM; duration 13:03 Moonrise @ 12:22 AM; Moonset @ 2:58 PM] Page 2 of 30 HIGH SIERRA 2013 [hide] Clyde Minaret : Clyde Minaret and its SE face. [hide] Clyde Minaret : Looking north from the summit of Clyde Minaret Page 3 of 30 HIGH SIERRA 2013 [hide] Clyde Minaret : The route follows the prominent blood streak. By Adam P. I think the route drawn on the photo is slightly off. The route is to the left of the red line. Feb 24, 2008 The photo does not show the upper dihedral very well, and the route follows this dihedral. From the ground, the upper dihedral is easy to see. [hide] Clyde Minaret : Alpenglow on Norman Clyde Minaret. Taken with my crappy point and shoot. Page 4 of 30 HIGH SIERRA 2013 Southeast Face 5.8 FA: John Evans, Dick Long, Allen Steck, Chuck Wilts - June 22, 1963 Type: Trad, Alpine Consensus: 5.8+ Length: 13 pitches, 1500 feet, Grade IV Season: Spring : Submitted By Chris Owen on Mar 23, 2006 Description Ironically, one of the Sierras greatest Alpine rock climbs isn't even on granite! But rather a steep, smooth rock with angular holds from more ancient times. Watch out for more loose rock than usual. [Reportedly, the SummitPost Description is good/better; it is on appended pages ] Start the climb up the lefthand gully, uphill from the base of the face. There may be a cairn. P1-2 5.6. Make a long traverse right and slightly upwards then around onto the face proper. P3-7 5.7. There's a shallow dihedral up high on the right side of the face; aim for it, but don't go too far right. Pitch 7 finishes with a tricky traverse to a hanging belay at the bottom of the shallow dihedral. P8 5.8. Climb the shallow dihedral to an alcove. P9 5.8. Left out of the alcove then wander across and up the white scar to a ledge just below the large summit dihedral. P10 5.8. A short strenuous corner leads to a ledge at the bottom of the main dihedral. P11-12 5.8. Two pitches up the summit dihedral lead to a notch. P13 5.7. Traverse left on a large ledge then up the face to the summit ridge. Scramble the ridge to the summit. Location See schematic. Approach: From Cecile Lake. Descent: Cross Class 3 rock towards the Ken-Clyde Notch, down climb this to the start of the climb - a rappel is necessary at one point. Protection Alpine rack. Page 5 of 30 HIGH SIERRA 2013 [hide] Southeast Face : Charles leads pitch 2 (5.10a) By Chris Owen [hide] **Disclaimer** Mar 24, 2006 This is the way we went - you may find a better way. By John Dubrawski recommend the 5.9+ direct variation, although there is loose rock. The lakeside Jul 3, 2007 bivvy spots are beautiful. But the creek-side mosquitos... Page 6 of 30 HIGH SIERRA 2013 By Fat Dad [hide] I found the topo fairly inaccurate. The topo from the 100 classic Sierra climbs Dec 12, 2007 is far more accurate. The first pitch is a long traverse up and right but is probably about 5.7. There was a pile of sticks at the start, though a better reference point is that it's nearly level with the toe of Michael Minaret to the left. Three more pitches lead to a ledge atop a pedestal where you start the crux 5.8 + traverse R. into the dihedral, which really isn't indicated on this topo. From there, you following the dihedral to the traversing pitch up and left. A great climb, but not for 5.8 newbies. It's long, committing, with route finding issues. A 5.8 climb for solid 5.9 climbers. By vincent L. [hide] The direct start is well worth doing . It is two pitches of 10a climbing up a Dec 26, 2007 terrific dihedral . Overall the route is pretty sustained at 5.8 . It took us about 8 hours to climb the route . Route finding is not that hard . Much of the route is climbing up corners . The traversing pitch was 5.9 , and scary in my opinion . The pro is there but you have to make moves a few feet out at times . An amazing climb . By George Bell [hide] There is a direct start that is 5.10. A lot of parties start up the face too soon Aug 18, 2008 and end up doing this. To add to the confusion, the line in the photo in S&R does not show the initial traverse. There was a lot of snow in the descent couloir when we climbed this. We got by without ice axes by doing a few more rappels. By Chris Owen [hide] In response to Fat Dad, see disclaimer. Administrator Mar 5, 2009 As far as the traverse being one pitch, perhaps we had a shorter rope, or maybe I just stopped short at a convenient spot, didn't think 5.7 was called for when compared to the technical difficulties of the rest of the climb. The traverse into the Shallow Dihedral is shown as 5.7 at the end of P7 (also in description as "Tricky Traverse"), but I didn't think it was the crux at 5.8, but rather the Shallow Dihedral itself. But then again I did this route in the 1980's (long before there were any schematics) maybe a hold broke off or something. By Mark P Thomas [hide] Direct start is 5.9 and really not much harder than some of the cruxes higher Jun 8, 2012 up. Way too easy for the 5.10a that Croft gives it. Really fun, clean and worth doing. Frankly, we found the technical crux to be a move right off the belay on one of the last 5.8 pitches higher up. The route is stout enough that if you're strong and fast enough to do the route solidly, you should be able to handle the direct start, so don't skip it! Page 7 of 30 HIGH SIERRA 2013 This may have been referred to as “utter junk” Page 8 of 30 HIGH SIERRA 2013 Page 9 of 30 HIGH SIERRA 2013 Page 10 of 30 HIGH SIERRA 2013 Rack: For a rack we brought 1 set of nuts and a few tricams, one set of of BD Camalots to #3, 1/2 set of Metolius (alternate sizes to the equivalent of a #2 Camalot), and a full set of C3 Camalots. We only placed nuts for the anchor to save cams, and even there we mostly used pink, red and black tricams instead. We found having extras in small cams including the narrower and smaller C3s down do a #0 to be very helpful, especially for the first two pitches. If you are solid on 5.8 leading and climbing with a 60m rope, you could get by with closer to a single set of cams, since our rack worked well for 70m pitches. Page 11 of 30 HIGH SIERRA 2013 Descent: From the summit, unrope and scramble north. About 200 ft later you will encounter a steep step (cl. 4). This is the crux of the Rock Route (IMHO one of the best cl. 4 scrambles in the Sierra) and here you have two options: 1. Continue on to downclimb the Rock Route. This is similar in nature and length to the East Face of Middle Palisade, but a bit harder and more exposed, so only do this if you have time and energy for lots of sustained downclimbing! 2. Turn left and switchback on some exposed but solid ledges to reach a rappel anchor. A single rope rappel trending climber's left brings you into a chute. From here cross the chute to a rib and downclimb the ridge about 100 ft to find our pimpin' rapp station.
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