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Mount Whitney Via the East Face Trip Notes
Mount Whitney via The East Face Trip Notes 2.18 Mount Whitney via the East Face This is the classic route up the highest peak in the lower forty eight states. The 2000 foot-high face was first as- cended by the powerful team of Robert Underhill, Norman Clyde, Jules Eichorn and Glen Dawson on August 16, 1931. These were the finest climbers of the time; their ascent time of three and a quarter hours is rarely equalled by modern climbers with their tight rock shoes and the latest in climbing hardware. Dawson returned to make the sec- ond ascent of the route and in 1934 Eichorn pioneered the airy Tower Traverse that all current day climbers utilize. Clyde became legendary in the Sierra for both his unequaled number of Sierra first ascents and the size of the packs he carried. Underhill later remarked that on the approach to the East Face Clyde’s pack was “an especially pictur- esque enormity of skyscraper architecture.” Times have changed but the East Face remains a great climb. While only rated 5.6 do not underestimate it! You will be at over 14,000 feet carrying a small pack with the essentials for the day, and ascending about 12 pitches of continuous climbing. Itinerary Day One: The Approach. Starting at the 8,640 foot Whitney Portal we hike Whitney Trail for less than a mile before heading up the steep North Fork of Lone Pine Creek. The trail here is non-maintained and rough with creek crossings and rocks to scramble up and over. -
Matthew Greene Were Starting to Understand the Grave the Following Day
VANISHED An account of the mysterious disappearance of a climber in the Sierra Nevada BY MONICA PRELLE ILLUSTRATIONS BY BRETT AFFRUNTI CLIMBING.COM — 61 VANISHED Three months earlier in July, the 39-year-old high school feasted on their arms. They went hiking together often, N THE SMALL SKI TOWN of Mammoth Lakes in math teacher dropped his car off at a Mammoth auto shop even in the really cold winters common to the Northeast. California’s Eastern Sierra, the first snowfall of the for repairs. He was visiting the area for a summer climb- “The ice didn’t slow him down one bit,” Minto said. “I strug- ing vacation when the car blew a head gasket. The friends gled to keep up.” Greene loved to run, competing on the track year is usually a beautiful and joyous celebration. Greene was traveling with headed home as scheduled, and team in high school and running the Boston Marathon a few Greene planned to drive to Colorado to join other friends times as an adult. As the student speaker for his high school But for the family and friends of a missing for more climbing as soon as his car was ready. graduation, Greene urged his classmates to take chances. IPennsylvania man, the falling flakes in early October “I may have to spend the rest of my life here in Mam- “The time has come to fulfill our current goals and to set moth,” he texted to a friend as he got more and more frus- new ones to be conquered later,” he said in his speech. -
Norman Clyde: Legendary Mountain Man E Was a Loner, Totally at Home Thet Scales at Only 140 Pounds, Clyde’S in the Mountains’ Solitude
Friends of the Oviatt Library Spring/Summer 2011 One-of-a-kind Exhibition: Tony Gardner’s Swan Song ome came replace the original Sto view the materials, the sort Library’s rarely of thing that makes seen treasures. up a library’s Special Others came to hear Collections. the keynote speaker, Following Stephen Tabor of Tabor’s thought- the Huntington provoking com Library. But many ments the as long-time friends sembled dignitaries of the library, those and Library friends truly in the know, repaired to the came to honor the Tseng Family Gal Oviatt Library’s lery where, while multi-talented, long- savoring an enticing serving Curator of medley of crudi Special Collections, tés, they ogled an Tony Gardner, who eclectic assortment recently announced his retirement, era of printing, he noted, when er of unique, rare, one-of-a-kind and to ogle his latest, and perhaps rors were found or changes judged ephemera plus portions of some his last, creation for the Library— necessary, presses were stopped, of the Library’s smaller collections. an exhibit featuring unique gems changes were made, and printing Among the items Gardner opted to from the Library’s archives. But for resumed. But the error-bearing showcase in his ultimate exhibition whatever reason, they came; and pages were not discarded—paper were such singular treasures as: A none left disappointed. was much too precious for such hand-written, eyewitness account Tabor, Curator of Early Printed extravagance—and the result was of the 1881 gunfight between the Books at the Huntington, pro books, even from the same print Earps and Clantons at the OK vided an appropriate prelude for ing that differed in subtle ways. -
Clyde Minaret
CLYDE MINARET The Sierra Nevada Southeast Face 5.8 By Robert “SP” Parker The Minarets, Clyde Minaret is the tallest. photo: Todd Vogel Introduction Southeast Face - CLYDE MINARET L The Minarets area is Lookout Mountain To The Minarets From The Trailhead © Rockfax 2004 one of the most beau- 8,352 ft O Clyde Minaret San Joaquin N tiful in the High Sierra. river bridge Southeast Face 5.8 E Green tinged metamor- Olaine Mammoth Little Antelope 8,900 ft Middle Fork of San Lake Joaquin River Agnew Meadows Valley P phic rocks interlayered Campground and Scenic Loop 8,000 ft Agnew I with quartz glean and Trailhead Shadow Creek Meadows N 8,200 ft Shadow Lake River Trail Campgrounds sparkle amongst P E Minaret and rushing creeks and The Minarets end of Trailhead 12, 281 ft Summit Road 395 maintained trail Rosalie Lake B scented pine forests. FS Entrance WARMING Ediza Lake ANSELL Station WALL P I This is a popular hiking ADAMS 9,270 ft S 203 Cabin Lake destination but the WILDERNESS SKI AREA 8,200 ft H O climber is also drawn to 11.053ft 203 Agnew Devils Postpile Lake Mary Mammoth Meadow P Road the jagged peaks of the National Monument Sotcher Lake Lakes Minaret Crest. Readily 7,800 ft O Hot Spring W visible from Highway Red's Meadow Iceburg E 395 and from the lifts of HORSESHOE Lake 10,000 ft N SLABS Lake Mary S the Mammoth Mountain BEAR CRAG DIKE WALL Ski area the south face The Minarets Cecile Clyde Minaret R 3 mile CRYSTAL CRAG © Rockfax 2004 10,500 ft of Clyde Minaret domi- Lake Southeast Face 5.8 I V nates the area and from a distance appears steep and blank. -
The Far Side of the Sky
The Far Side of the Sky Christopher E. Brennen Pasadena, California Dankat Publishing Company Copyright c 2014 Christopher E. Brennen All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, transmitted, transcribed, stored in a retrieval system, or translated into any language or computer language, in any form or by any means, without prior written permission from Christopher Earls Brennen. ISBN-0-9667409-1-2 Preface In this collection of stories, I have recorded some of my adventures on the mountains of the world. I make no pretense to being anything other than an average hiker for, as the first stories tell, I came to enjoy the mountains quite late in life. But, like thousands before me, I was drawn increasingly toward the wilderness, partly because of the physical challenge at a time when all I had left was a native courage (some might say foolhardiness), and partly because of a desire to find the limits of my own frailty. As these stories tell, I think I found several such limits; there are some I am proud of and some I am not. Of course, there was also the grandeur and magnificence of the mountains. There is nothing quite to compare with the feeling that envelopes you when, after toiling for many hours looking at rock and dirt a few feet away, the world suddenly opens up and one can see for hundreds of miles in all directions. If I were a religious man, I would feel spirits in the wind, the waterfalls, the trees and the rock. Many of these adventures would not have been possible without the mar- velous companionship that I enjoyed along the way. -
Guide to the Norman Clyde-Robert C. Pavlik Collection, 1906-2009
Guide to the Norman Clyde-Robert C. Pavlik Collection, 1906-2009 http://lib.calpoly.edu/specialcollections/findingaids/ms164 Norman Clyde-Robert C. Pavlik Collection, 1906-2009 (bulk 1984-2008) Processed by Teresa Van Doren and Ken Kenyon, 2009; encoded by Byte Managers, 2009 Special Collections Department Robert E. Kennedy Library 1 Grand Avenue California Polytechnic State University San Luis Obispo, CA 93407 Phone: 805/756-2305 Fax: 805/756-5770 Email: [email protected] URL: http://lib.calpoly.edu/specialcollections/ © 2009 Trustees of the California State University. All rights reserved. Table of Contents GUIDE TO THE NORMAN CLYDE-ROBERT C. PAVLIK COLLECTION, 1906-2009 1 DESCRIPTIVE SUMMARY 4 TITLE: 4 COLLECTION NUMBER: 4 CREATORS: 4 ABSTRACT: 4 EXTENT: 4 LANGUAGE: 4 REPOSITORY: 4 ADMINISTRATIVE INFORMATION 5 PROVENANCE: 5 ACCESS: 5 RESTRICTIONS ON USE AND REPRODUCTION: 5 PREFERRED CITATION: 5 ABBREVIATIONS USED: 5 INDEXING TERMS 6 SUBJECTS: 6 GENRES AND FORMS OF MATERIAL: 6 RELATED MATERIALS 6 RELATED COLLECTIONS: 6 BIOGRAPHICAL NOTES 7 NORMAN CLYDE 7 ROBERT C. PAVLIK 8 SOURCES 9 SCOPE AND CONTENT 10 SERIES DESCRIPTION/FOLDER LIST 12 SERIES 1. NORMAN CLYDE PRIMARY SOURCES, 1906-C. 2000 12 A. CLYDE FAMILY RECORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS 12 B. CORRESPONDENCE OF NORMAN CLYDE 12 C. ARTICLES BY NORMAN CLYDE 13 SERIES 2. RESEARCH FILES ON NORMAN CLYDE, 1910-2009 17 A. PAVLIK RESEARCH CORRESPONDENCE 17 B. CORRESPONDENCE OF NORMAN CLYDE FAMILY AND FRIENDS 19 C. PAVLIK RESEARCH AT INSTITUTIONS 20 SERIES 3. SUBJECT FILES AND SECONDARY SOURCES ON NORMAN CLYDE, 1923-2009 22 A. BACKGROUND SUBJECT FILES 22 -2- B. -
A Photographic History of the Sierra Peaks Section 1955-2015
A PHOTOGRAPHIC HISTORY OF THE SIERRA PEAKS SECTION 1955-2015 A PHOTOGRAPHIC HISTORY OF THE SIERRA PEAKS SECTION 1955-2015 Prepared by Bob Cates First Presented at SPS 60th Anniversary Banquet, Jan. 25, 2015 SPS 60TH ANNIVERSARY, 1955-2015 ROOTS OF SIERRA CLIMBING – CLARENCE KING Clarence King Credited with first instance of ‘roping down’ in Sierra Nevada in 1864 SPS 60TH ANNIVERSARY, 1955-2015 ROOTS OF SIERRA CLIMBING JOHN MUIR – CALIFORNIA’S FIRST RECREATIONAL MOUNTAINEER “The mountains are calling and I must go.” “Climb the mountains and get their good tidings. Nature’s peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop away from you like leaves of Autumn.” SPS 60TH ANNIVERSARY, 1955-2015 ROOTS OF SIERRA CLIMBING – SIERRA CLUB HIGH TRIPS Typical High Trip Mountaineering Outing – Circa 1906 SPS 60TH ANNIVERSARY, 1955-2015 ROOTS OF SIERRA CLIMBING – SIERRA CLUB HIGH TRIPS High Trippers on Mt. Ritter, 1918 – Including Southern Sierrans Horsley, Bunn, Tracy, and Dawson SPS 60TH ANNIVERSARY, 1955-2015 ROOTS OF SIERRA CLIMBING – SIERRA CLUB HIGH TRIPS Norman Clyde Clair Tappaan Will Colby HIGH TRIP GROUP IN YOSEMITE, 1921 SPS 60TH ANNIVERSARY, 1955-2015 ROOTS OF SIERRA CLIMBING – SIERRA CLUB HIGH TRIPS Norman Clyde Guiding a Woman Climber, 1920s SPS 60TH ANNIVERSARY, 1955-2015 ROOTS OF SIERRA CLIMBING – SIERRA CLUB HIGH TRIPS 1929 High Trip Included Climb of Mt. Ritter Led by Bill Horsfall SPS 60TH ANNIVERSARY, 1955-2015 ROOTS OF SIERRA CLIMBING – SIERRA CLUB HIGH TRIPS Sierra Club party ascending Mt. -
The Whitney Massif
Reprinted with permission from the American Alpine Journal. Please do not distribute. To buy a copy of this terrific publication, AAJ 2014, go to http://www.americanalpineclub.org/p/aaj. [RECON] T H E W H I T N E Y MASSIF CLASSIC ROUTES, HOT NEW LINES, AND A BLANK CANVAS FOR THE FUTURE DOUG ROBINSON, AMY NESS & MYLES MOSER his is a story of people meeting terrain. It’s a love story—this terrain is hot. The adven- tures are wild and timeless. The red lines are still being drawn. Many have fallen for this massif, seduced by the pleasure of dancing with its peaks. TFrom the barely 10,000-foot summits ringing Lake Tahoe, the Sierra Crest builds as it marches southward. Opposite Yosemite it climbs over 13,000 feet, and coming by Bishop it nearly grazes 14,000 with the distinctive chisel of Mt. Humphreys. Soon the Palisades Traverse links six peaks that top 14,000 feet. Farther south, massive Mt. Williamson soars as high over the Owens Valley as K2 rises above base camp. Finally we arrive at the crescendo of the greatest granite range in the Lower 48, the Whitney Massif. Its heart stretches just two miles south to Mt. Muir, yet it is littered with buttresses, spires, ridges, and walls seemingly made for climbing. To the east, Lone Pine Peak stands guardian to walls that tear through the sky: Day Needle, Keeler Needle, the elegant spires of Mt. Russell, and Whitney itself, at 14,508 feet (4,422m) the highest summit in the continental United States. -
Wringing Light out of Stone
MOUNTAIN PROFILE THE PALISADES I DOUG ROBINSON Wringing Light out of Stone So this kid walks into the Palisades.... I was twenty, twenty-one—don’t remember. It was the mid-1960s, for sure. I’d been hanging in the Valley for a few seasons, wide-eyed and feeling lucky to be soaking up wisdom by holding the rope for Chuck Pratt, the finest crack climber of the Golden Age. Yeah, cracks: those stark highways up Yosemite’s smooth granite that only open up gradually to effort and humility. Later they begin to reveal another facet: shadowed, interior, drawing us toward hidden dimensions of our ascending passion. ¶ The Palisades, though, are alpine, which means they are even more fractured. It would take me a little longer to cut through to the true dimensions of even the obvious features. To my young imagination, they looked like the gleaming, angular granite in the too-perfect romantic pictures that I devoured out of Gaston Rébuffat’s mountaineering books. My earliest climbing partner, John Fischer, had already been there— crampons lashed to his tan canvas-and-leather pack—and he’d returned, wide-eyed, with the tale of having survived a starlit bivy on North Palisade. [Facing Page] Don Jensen climbing in the Palisades, Sierra Nevada, California, during the 1960s—captured in a photo that reflects the atmosphere of the French alpinist Gaston Rébuffat’s iconic images of the Alps. Many consider the Palisades to be the most alpine region of the High Sierra, although climate change has begun to affect the classic ice and snow climbs. -
Norman Clyde Papers, 1912-Circa 2002, Bulk 1923-1972
http://oac.cdlib.org/findaid/ark:/13030/tf996nb44j No online items Finding Aid to the Norman Clyde Papers, 1912-circa 2002, bulk 1923-1972 Finding Aid written by Ria Sachs and Mary Millman; revised by Marjorie Bryer The Bancroft Library University of California, Berkeley Berkeley, California, 94720-6000 Phone: (510) 642-6481 Fax: (510) 642-7589 Email: [email protected] URL: http://bancroft.berkeley.edu/ © 2007 The Regents of the University of California. All rights reserved. Finding Aid to the Norman Clyde BANC MSS 79/33 c 1 Papers, 1912-circa 2002, bulk 1923-1972 Finding Aid to the Norman Clyde Papers, 1912-circa 2002, bulk 1923-1972 Collection Number: BANC MSS 79/33 c The Bancroft Library University of California, Berkeley Berkeley, California Finding Aid Written By: Ria Sachs and Mary Millman; revised by Marjorie Bryer Date Completed: April 2007 © 2007 The Regents of the University of California. All rights reserved. Collection Summary Collection Title: Norman Clyde papers Date (inclusive): 1912-circa 2002, Date (bulk): bulk 1923-1972 Collection Number: BANC MSS 79/33 c Creators : Clyde, Norman, 1885-1972. Extent: Number of containers: 5 cartons, 1 boxLinear feet: 5.42 Repository: The Bancroft Library University of California, Berkeley Berkeley, California, 94720-6000 Phone: (510) 642-6481 Fax: (510) 642-7589 Email: [email protected] URL: http://bancroft.berkeley.edu/ Abstract: The Norman Clyde Papers document the climbing adventures of, and offer insights into the life of, one of California's greatest mountaineers, and one of the foremost chroniclers of the Sierra Nevada range. They also help to preserve the history of mountaineering in the High Sierra. -
Sierra Club Oral History Project the SIERRA CLUB AM) the URBAN
Sierra Club Oral History Project THE SIERRA CLUB AM) THE URBAN ENVIRONMENT 11: LABOR AND THE ENVIROMENT IN THE SAN FRANCISCO BAY ARJ3A, 1960s-1970s David Jenkins Environmental Controversies and the Labor Movement in the Bay Area Amy Meyer Preserving Bay Area Parklands Anthony L. Ramos A Labor Leader Concerned with the Environment Dwight C. Steele Environmentalist and Labor Ally With an Introduction by Leslie V. Reid Interviews Conducted by Karen Jorgensen-Esmaili and Students in History 290a, Winter 1981 Willa Baum, Instructor University of California, Berkeley Underwritten by The National Endowment for the Humanities and the Sierra Club Sierra Club History Committee 1983 Sierra Club Oral History Project Copyright @ 1983 by Sierra Club, San Francisco, California All rights reserved PREFACE The Oral History Program of the Sierra Club In fall 1969 and spring 1970 a self-appointed committee of Sierra Clubbers met several times to consider two vexing and related problems. The rapid membership growth of the club and its involvement in environmental issues on a national scale left neither time nor resources to document the club's internal and external history. Club records were stored in a number of locations and were inaccessible for research. Further, we were failing to take advantage of the relatively new technique of oral history by which the reminiscences of club leaders and members of long standing could be preserved. The ad hoc committee's recommendation that a standing History Committee be established was approved by the Sierra Club Board of Directors in May 1970. That September the board designated The Bancroft Library of the University of California at Berkeley as the official depository of the club's archives. -
Richardmountain01leonrich.Pdf
University of California Berkeley All uses of this manuscript are covered by a legal agreement between the Regents of the University of California and The Sierra Club Foundation, and Richard M. Leonard, dated September 25, 1975. The manuscript is thereby made available for research purposes. All literary rights in the manuscript, including the right to publish, are reserved to The Bancroft Library of the University of California at Berkeley and The Sierra Club Foundation, 220 Bush Street, San Francisco, California. No part of the manuscript may be quoted for publication without the written permission of the Director of The Bancroft Library of the University of. California at Berkeley. Requests for permission to quote for publication should be addressed to the Regional Oral History Office, 486 Library, and should include identification of the specific passages to be quoted, anticipated use of the passages, and identification of the user. The legal agreement with Richard M. Leonard requires that he be notified of the request and allowed thirty days in which to respond. The Bancroft Library University of California/Berkeley Regional Oral History Office Sierra Club History Series Richard M. Leonard MOUNTAINEER, LAWYER, ENVIRONMENTALIST Volume I With an Introduction by Francis P. Farquhar An Interview Conducted by Susan R. Schrepfer Copy No, (c) 1975 by The Regents of the University of California and The Sierra Club Foundation Richard M. Leonard 1965 Photograph by Doris Leonard, Bridge & Leonard THE ORAL HISTORY PROGRAM OF THE SIERRA CLUB In fall 1969 and spring 1970 a self-appointed committee of Sierra Clubbers met several times to consider two vexing and related problems.