Lake Clark National Park and Preserve

Home , Chigmit Mountains, Iliamna Lake, Mulchatna River, Richard Proenneke

LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/097:27AMPagec1 LAKE CLARK NATIONAL PARKPRESERVE NATIONAL AND CLARK LAKE ® A ResourceAssessment A

July 2009 LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:27 AM Page c2

Center for State of the Parks ®

More than a century ago, Congress established Yellowstone as the world’s first national park. That single act was the beginning of a CONTENTS remarkable and ongoing effort to protect this nation’s natural, historical, and cultural heritage. REPORT SUMMARY 1 Today, Americans are learning that national park designation alone cannot provide full resource protection. Many parks are RATINGS 4 compromised by development of adjacent lands, air and water pollu- KEY FINDINGS 7 tion, invasive plants and animals, and rapid increases in motorized recreation. Park officials often lack adequate information on the LAKE CLARK NATIONAL PARK status of and trends in conditions of critical resources. AND PRESERVE AT A GLANCE 12 The National Parks Conservation Association initiated the State of the Parks program in 2000 to assess the condition of natural and RESOURCE MANAGEMENT cultural resources in the parks, and determine how well equipped the HIGHLIGHTS 14 National Park Service is to protect the parks—its stewardship capacity. The goal is to provide information that will help policymakers, THE LAKE CLARK the public, and the National Park Service improve conditions in national parks, celebrate successes as models for other parks, and ASSESSMENT 22 ensure a lasting legacy for future generations. NATURAL RESOURCES 22 For more information about the methodology and research used Adjacent Mining District Most in preparing this report and to learn more about the Center for State Urgent Threat of the Parks, visit www.npca.org/stateoftheparks or contact: NPCA, Center for State of the Parks, P.O. Box 737, Fort Collins, CO 80522; CULTURAL RESOURCES 40 phone: 970.493.2545; email: [email protected]. Park and Preserve Receives Highest Score of More Since 1919, the National Parks Conservation Association has been Than 60 Parks Nationwide the leading voice of the American people in protecting and enhanc- ing our National Park System. NPCA, its members, and partners work STEWARDSHIP CAPACITY 56 together to protect the park system and preserve our nation’s natural, historical, and cultural heritage for generations to come. WHAT YOU CAN DO TO HELP 63 * More than 325,000 members * Twenty-four regional and field offices APPENDIX: METHODOLOGY 64 * More than 120,000 activists

A special note of appreciation goes to those whose generous grants and donations made this report possible: MSST Foundation, Ben and Ruth Hammett, Lee and Marty Talbot, and anonymous donors.

Paddlers enjoy the splendor of Kontrashibuna Lake, nestled in the rugged Chigmit Mountains within Lake Clark National Park and Preserve. Photo courtesy of Dan Oberlatz. LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:27 AM Page 1

REPORT SUMMARY

1 MELISSA BLAIR / NATIONAL PARKS CONSERVATION ASSOCIATION Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve is a Lake Clark is an isolated place. With no Lake Clark National microcosm of Alaska. Much of what gives the roads entering the park, and no major port or Park and Preserve’s 4 million acres encom- state its bold and independent character—its bay into which cruise ships can enter, Lake pass rugged moun- history, people, geology, and animal life—is Clark National Park and Preserve receives only tains, glacial ice, found within the park and preserve’s bound- several thousand visitors per year. Small-plane placid lakes, coastal aries. Its 4 million acres stretch from rugged, services called “air taxis” make daily flights beaches and salt glaciated mountain peaks in the north and east carrying visitors, residents, mail, and freight to marshes, active volcanoes, dense to the shores of Lake Clark, from the coastal the communities and villages in and around forests, alpine tundra, plains of Cook Inlet in the east to tundra plains the park. The park’s remoteness and its distance and more. in the west. from population centers and sources of pollu- LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:27 AM Page 2

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve’s central feature and namesake, pictured here, is a spawning destination for a portion of the largest wild sockeye salmon run in the world. MELISSA BLAIR / NATIONAL PARKS CONSERVATION ASSOCIATION 2

tion help to keep its ecosystems wholly func- Park and Preserve: Lime Village, Port Alsworth,

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake tioning and make it an excellent place to study Nondalton, Iliamna, Newhalen, and Pedro Bay. local and regional trends, such as wildlife Lake Clark National Park and Preserve hosts migration patterns and the effects of global an incredible diversity of ecosystems and is an climate change and deposition of air pollution integral component of the Bristol Bay watershed from distant sources. ecosystem. Centered upon an active earthquake Congress passed the Alaska National fault, two crustal plates are colliding there, Interest Lands Conservation Act (ANILCA) in pushing up the Alaska Range and Chigmit 1980, ensuring that a significant portion of Mountains that form the alpine spine of the Alaska’s fully functioning ecosystems would park. A narrow coastal band along Cook Inlet remain as such. Lake Clark National Park and supports rich salt marshes that nurture bears for Preserve was established that same year to several weeks in the spring before spawning protect the spectacular landscapes and pristine salmon pulse up the rivers. On the western front water necessary to protect Bristol Bay sockeye of the mountains, large, glacially carved lakes salmon and wildlife that symbolize the reach out from the mountains between subarc- untamed nature of Alaska, including brown tic ridges. The park’s central feature and name- bears, wolves, and caribou. The park also sake, Lake Clark, is a freshwater spawning desti- provides opportunities for subsistence uses nation for a portion of the largest wild sockeye (e.g., hunting, fishing, berry picking, wood salmon run in the world. Further north, the cutting) by local rural residents. Six resident boreal ecosystem reaches south along the zone communities—nearby populations Kuskokwin headwaters. Ecological disturbance permitted to use park resources for subsis- regimes occur on a landscape scale and are tence—are identified for Lake Clark National ongoing. The North Pacific and Arctic climate LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:27 AM Page 3

systems push back and forth over the park’s Creek, Chinitna Bay, and Shelter Creek, are terrain, depositing copious snows that feed popular with visitors who arrive to view bears; unnumbered and unnamed glaciers. Glaciers these areas see more than 50 percent of all park give rise to dynamic river systems and fluctuat- visitors. The Great Alaska Adventure Lodge has ing lake levels. Earthquakes are frequent, and operated a bear-viewing camp situated on a two active volcanoes in the park, plus several private inholding since 1997, and visitation at more nearby, erupt on a decadal scale. that coastal salt marsh increased from 30 Vegetation communities are in constant succes- people in 1995 to more than 550 in recent sion, and wildlife, birds, and fish migrate or years. Three other coastal marshes in the park shift habitat use patterns to keep up with the show similar increases in visitor activity, with dynamic environment. The park supports local residents on both sides of Cook Inlet Mary Evanof and nearly intact predator/prey relationships. strongly promoting bear viewing as an Chief Zakar, residents of the Athabascan 3 Encroaching human activities and the impacts economic resource. As brown bear viewing Dena’ina village once of global climate change are recent and often increases, the Park Service needs to continue to located at Kijik, unpredictable factors that have the capacity to proactively work with bear-viewing guides to posed for this photo- alter natural ecosystem functions in Lake Clark. ensure that viewing activities do not encroach graph around 1910. Human history and its inextricable ties to upon critical bear habitat or change bear Human history and its ties to the landscape the landscape are interpreted at Lake Clark— behavior. Toward this end, the park began to are interpreted at the bountiful salmon fishery of Bristol Bay, the offer a best practices and guide training Lake Clark National Telaquana Trail, and the life of one of the park’s program in 2007. Park and Preserve. most beloved former residents, naturalist Dick Proenneke, who lived in a lakeside, hand-built cabin from 1968 to 1998, documenting his

simple wilderness lifestyle ethic in journals and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake home videos. Archaeological camp sites dating NATIONAL PARK SERVICE from 10,000 to 1,000 years old, Dena’ina Athabascan sites at Kijik (a national historic landmark), and the historic cabins of Euro- American hunters, trappers, and prospectors are evidence of people who used the area before park establishment. The park also boasts an impressive museum collection that includes herbarium and mammal specimens, Proenneke’s journals, thousands of historic photographs, and more than 6,000 archaeological artifacts. Although the park and preserve sees few visitors, the potential for negative visitor impacts exists, particularly at popular campsites. Brown bear populations are also susceptible to negative impacts from visitors. These animals congregate at streams and coastal salt marshes to forage on seasonally abundant food sources, such as sedge and salmon. Several areas along the Cook Inlet coast, including Silver Salmon LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:27 AM Page 4

Note: When interpreting the scores for resource conditions, recognize that critical information upon which the ratings are based is not always available. This limits data interpretation to some extent. For Lake Clark National Park and Preserve, 68 percent of the natural resources information was available and 100 percent of the cultural resources information was available.

RESOURCE CATEGORY CURRENT

NATURAL RESOURCES

Overall conditions 91 EXCELLENT Environmental and Biotic Measures 90 4 Biotic Impacts and Stressors 83 Air 100 Water 100 Soils 78 Ecosystems Measures 92 Species Composition and Condition 90 Ecosystem Extent and Function 93

RATINGS SCALE 0–35 36–60 61–80 81–90 91–100

CRITICAL POOR FAIR GOOD EXCELLENT

CULTURAL RESOURCES Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake Overall conditions 84 GOOD Archaeology 73 Cultural Landscapes 80 Ethnography (Peoples and Cultures) 98 Historic Structures 83 History 93 Museum Collection and Archives 85

RATINGS SCALE 0–35 36–60 61–80 81–90 91–100

CRITICAL POOR FAIR GOOD EXCELLENT

The findings in this report do not necessarily reflect past or current park management. Many factors that affect resource conditions are a result of both human and natural influences over long periods of time, in many cases before a park was established. The intent of the Center for State of the Parks is not to evaluate Park Service staff performance, but to document the present status of park resources and determine which actions can be taken to protect them into the future. LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:27 AM Page 5

Today, the biggest threat to Lake Clark due to sometimes conflicting state and federal National Park and Preserve looms just outside management goals and mandates. And because its borders: an emerging industrial mining of the immense size of the park and preserve, district to the southwest, anchored by the the cost associated with traveling throughout proposed Pebble Mine. Also of concern are the park, and the difficulty of reaching some exploration activities adjacent to the eastern resources due to the need for planes or boats, side of the park that are assessing the potential some historic structures and archaeological viability of mining the Chuitna River coalfields sites are monitored infrequently. Park and harnessing hydroelectric power resources managers are certain that some important sites at Chakachamna Lake. have yet to be discovered. The same challenges With the exception of large private tracts of associated with the park’s size and remoteness tribal lands (owned by Alaska Native of some resources also affect fish and wildlife 5 Corporations), almost all lands adjacent to management. Lake Clark National Park and Preserve are public, managed either by the state or by the RATINGS federal Bureau of Land Management. These In recognition of the significant Bristol Bay lands are undeveloped yet largely open to fisheries habitat, rich history, and cultural resource extraction, with minimal restrictions. resources protected within Lake Clark National To date, mining activity adjacent to the park has Park and Preserve, the National Parks been limited due to a lack of road access, but Conservation Association’s Center for State of since 2003 intensive exploration has focused the Parks conducted an assessment to deter- on a significant gold and copper deposit at the mine current conditions of the park’s resources. Pebble Mine site. If this site is ultimately devel- Known natural resources at Lake Clark

oped, it could lead to additional mining devel- National Park and Preserve rated 91 out of a Preserve and Park National Clark Lake opment and the growth of an industrial district possible 100, indicating “excellent” overall next to the park. The National Parks condition. Only two other parks assessed by Conservation Association, along with many the Center for State of the Parks to date (out of commercial and sport fishermen, Alaska Native more than 50 natural resource assessments) tribes, and other stakeholders, oppose the have received higher natural resources scores— large-scale industrial Pebble Mine project. The Denali National Park and Preserve in Alaska chief concern is that building and operating the and Little Bighorn Battlefield National largest open-pit mine in North America in the Monument in Montana. Ratings were assigned fragile headwaters of Bristol Bay—the world’s through an evaluation of park research and most prolific sockeye salmon fishery—will monitoring data using NPCA’s Center for State pollute the region’s abundant and interlaced of the Parks comprehensive assessment surface and groundwaters and will irreparably methodology (see “Appendix” on page 64). harm the salmon spawning habitat, resident The proposed Pebble mining district outside fisheries, and local economies based upon the park and its related infrastructure require- clean waters. Caribou, moose, and migratory ments pose the most urgent threat to birds may also be affected by on-going explo- resources—especially wild salmon habitat— ration activities and future developments. threatening the park and preserve with poten- In addition to dealing with threats related to tial surface and groundwater contamination, the proposed Pebble Mine, park managers also noise, impaired viewsheds due to dust and grapple with a complex system for managing developments, habitat fragmentation and wildlife species hunted legally in the preserve, degradation due to roads and pipeline corri- LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:27 AM Page 6

Nondalton, located just outside the southwest boundary of Lake Clark National Park and Preserve, is one of six resident zone communities authorized to use KATIE MYERS / NATIONAL PARK SERVICE park resources for subsistence.

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake dors, changes in wildlife and waterfowl migra- and Preserve and Aniakchak National tion routes, disruption of ecosystems and Monument and Preserve) that includes signifi- wildlife and fish populations, and increased cant publications and solid ties to Native demands upon subsistence resources. Alaskans, some important projects have not Industrialization of lands adjacent to the park been completed. Lake Clark’s cultural land- would fracture intact ecosystems and diminish scapes inventory should include the important the perception of the Lake Clark region as the Chulitna River-Sixmile Lake watershed (in line epitome of wilderness. to be funded in 2010), and the park’s museum The park’s known cultural resources rated collection needs to be completely cataloged. 84 out of a possible 100, indicating “good” Several archaeological survey, testing, and overall condition. This is the highest overall mapping projects have been conducted in Lake cultural resources score obtained in any of the Clark, beginning with exploration of Tuxedni more than 60 cultural resource assessments the Bay in 1939. These projects have begun to illu- Center for State of the Parks has completed to minate the human story of the region, but date. The scores for cultural resources are based despite these efforts, only about 1 percent of on the results of indicator questions that reflect the park has been surveyed for archaeological the National Park Service’s own Cultural resources. There is the potential that significant Resource Management Guideline and other poli- resources remain undiscovered. The park cies related to cultural and historical resources. recently received funding for an archaeological While the park prides itself on a robust overview and assessment that will address the cultural resource program (with staff and next steps for the archaeology program. resources shared with Katmai National Park LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:27 AM Page 7

KEY FINDINGS • Wild sockeye salmon anchor the economy, traditional lifeways, and • Advanced, industrial mining explo- ecosystem. Besides providing economic rations in progress on adjacent lands. and subsistence values to the people of The pursuit of extensive, untapped (but Alaska, salmon are the cornerstone of low-grade and highly reactive) deposits the Bristol Bay ecosystem. In the act of of gold and copper on State of Alaska returning to freshwater rivers and lakes, PAGE SPENCER / NATIONAL PARK SERVICE mining claims, staked only 14 miles from such as Lake Clark, from the ocean and Lake Clark National Park and Preserve’s dying in vast numbers, the salmon trans- southwestern boundary, dwarfs other port millions of tons of nutrients from the immediate challenges facing the Bristol rich marine environment to Alaska’s Bay region and park resource managers. freshwater systems and adjacent 7 If built, Pebble Mine could become the uplands. largest mining project in Alaska, the • Park and preserve contains the fourth- largest open-pit mine in North America, highest number of privately held acres and a catalyst of industrialization in the of all national parks. Within Lake Clark headwaters of one of the last remaining National Park and Preserve’s boundary, Bear tracks left wild sockeye salmon fisheries on Earth. there are about 180,500 acres of land behind in these mud Since 2003, approximately 1,000 square flats are evidence of owned by Alaska Native Corporations miles of mining claims have been staked one of the park and and individual residents. While many preserve’s most around the Pebble deposit. And in private land owners are responsible charismatic wildlife December 2008, during the final days of stewards of park land and wildlife, park species. The Park the Bush Administration, the Bureau of Service is mandated managers are challenged to proactively Land Management finalized a plan to to preserve healthy Preserve and Park National Clark Lake manage activities that could potentially open more than 1 million acres of federal populations of bears occur on these private inholdings (e.g., and other wildlife. public lands in the Bristol Bay watershed logging, mining, and the construction of to mining, a move that could multiply the septic systems, airstrips, etc.) that could prospects of additional mineral deposits impair park resource integrity and visitor being developed and compound the experience. impacts of a future mining district on lands near Lake Clark and Katmai • Game management strategies are National Parks. Predicted mining impacts complex and require cooperation. The at Lake Clark include degraded air and preserve portion of Lake Clark National water quality (with associated impacts on Park and Preserve covers 1.4 million acres fisheries), encroachment into fish and and contains rich wildlife habitat. wildlife habitat, disturbance and Subsistence hunting is permitted displacement of wildife and birds, throughout the national park and increased competition for subsistence preserve for qualified users. Hunting is and/or sport resources from new resi- administered in the preserve under dents and mine workers, and diminish- Alaska’s complex dual-agency management of the visitor experience (due to a ment system in which the Park Service loss of wilderness character). manages subsistence hunting and the Alaska Department of Fish and Game manages sport hunting of the same wildlife populations. The Park Service LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 8

and Alaska Department of Fish and new staff member—a recreational Game’s strategies can come in conflict, planner and wilderness coordinator— particularly when the State’s permitted who also serves the Western Arctic hunting methods, means, and bag limits National Parklands, which include do not align with federal mandates to Noatak National Preserve, Cape preserve healthy wildlife populations. Krusenstern National Monument, and Kobuk Valley National Park. The park • Planning in progress. Several important expects to receive funds in 2010 to management documents are in progress. support the wilderness/backcountry The park is developing its foundation management plan. statement, which is a formal description of the park’s core mission that will be • Funds and staff needed. Additional 8 used to support planning and manage- staff and funds would enhance resource ment. It is expected to be finished in fall protection and interpretation at Lake 2009. The park initiated an archaeologi- Clark National Park and Preserve. With a cal overview and assessment in early limited number of staff and travel restric- 2009. The park’s administrative history is tions in place, the park is hindered in its also under way and is expected to be ability to monitor some of its resources, completed in 2011; additional historical which are spread out over 4 million acres. research on hunting, mining, and early For example, due to the sheer size of the Euro-American settlers would expand park and the remoteness of some sites, the park’s historic themes and add rich- park staff are unable to annually inspect ness to an already robust history and monitor all historic structures or program. Park staff identified a need for conduct condition assessments at all Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake a wilderness/backcountry management known sites. An archaeologist and a plan and a business plan. Some of these geologist are needed along with staff to needs will be addressed with help from a analyze data and communicate research

Industrial mining explorations are in progress on lands adjacent to Lake Clark National Park and Preserve. Development of the Pebble Mine, which would become the largest open-pit mine in North America, could spur further industrialization in MELISSA BLAIR / NATIONAL PARKS CONSERVATION ASSOCIATION the headwaters of one of the last remaining wild sockeye salmon fisheries on Earth. LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 9

findings to colleagues and the public. Athabascan sites within the Kijik National More personnel are needed to serve as Historic Landmark district, and there is a community liaisons in the park’s ethno- strong likelihood that many more remain graphic/subsistence management undiscovered; yet, less than 1 percent of programs; the park expects to meet this the park (about 40,000 acres) has been need through a base budget increase in surveyed at the reconnaissance level for 2010 to support staff for the ethnography archaeological sites (i.e., examined for program. Retaining curatorial and surface indications of cultural remains, JEANNE SCHAAF / NATIONAL PARK SERVICE archival staff at the Alaska Curatorial augmented with the limited use of soil Center in Anchorage—where the park’s probes and small shovel tests). A recently museum collection and archives are funded archaeological overview and stored and the park’s curator is based—is assessment will serve as a vital tool for 9 important to ensure the collections identifying, prioritizing, and planning continue to receive good care. A chief of archaeological work in the park. interpretation and an education special- • Cultural landscapes at risk. Tanalian ist are needed to better serve visitors and Point and the Chulitna River-Sixmile Lake provide additional education and watershed are two identified cultural outreach. There is a growing need to landscapes that the park would like to This lanceolate point develop a comprehensive data manage- document soon. These landscapes are was found by Jack ment system. Advances in digital data Hobson, a Nondalton located partly on private land within and collection (photography, GIS, GPS, and tribal leader. Its age outside the park that could potentially be other methods) generate more files than has not been deter- sold and/or developed, diminishing the mined. ever before, exacerbating the need for landscapes’ integrity both as a cultural an adaptable system of data manage- Preserve and Park National Clark Lake landscape and in an ecological sense. ment and a concise set of collection and The Chulitna River watershed begins storage protocols. In 2008, funds from within the proposed Pebble Mine area; the Park Service’s Centennial Initiative, a most of the watershed is located on land program aimed at ensuring parks are just north of the proposed Pebble Mine preserved as the centennial of the site. This watershed is the main subsis- agency approaches, improved staffing in tence area for the community of law enforcement, interpretation, and Nondalton, and it is the largest freshwa- maintenance. Base funding requests in ter tributary of Lake Clark National Park, 2009 were approved by Congress to so maintaining the area’s health is essen- further support law enforcement and tial for drinking waters, salmon, and maintenance. Combined this funding wildlife habitats. Explorations of a gold increased the park’s base budget by and copper deposit in the headwaters of more than $500,000, vastly improving the the Chulitna is one example of a mining functionality of park programs. claim that may become far more • Archaeological overview and assess- economically feasible to develop in the ment will guide future work. Resources Pebble mining district if access and infra- that are unknown cannot be protected. structure (roads, ports, and power) are The park and preserve contains highly constructed. significant and unique known archaeological resources, such as the LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 10

10 Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake

Park Statistics Lake Clark National Park and Preserve

Park location Southwest Alaska, about 100 miles from Anchorage

Park 1980, Alaska National Interest Lands establishment Conservation Act (ANILCA)

Park size (acres) 4 million total (2.6 million in the park and 1.4 million in the preserve; 2.4 million are designated wilderness

Recreational 6,802 visits (2008) LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 11 KAREN MINOT MAP ILLUSTRATION

11 Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 12

LAKE CLARK NATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVE AT A GLANCE

• Mountains, volcanoes, and tectonic tundra, coastline, and shrublands are activity: The park includes impressive home to a wealth of terrestrial wildlife. mountains, including portions of the The Mulchatna herd of caribou, whose Alaska and Aleutian Ranges and the population exceeded 200,000 in the Chigmit Mountains. The park is part of 1990s and is now about 36,000, use the the Pacific Ocean’s seismically active park and preserve, as do thousands of “Ring of Fire” and home to two active migrating waterfowl, shorebirds, and volcanoes—Mt. Iliamna and Mt. Redoubt. seabirds. Brown and black bears, moose, 12 At 10,016 and 10,197 feet, respectively, Dall sheep, and wolves also call the park they are the park’s tallest mountains. Two home. Marine mammals such as beluga more volcanoes, Mt. Spurr and Mt. whales, sea otters, and harbor seals may Augustine, loom just outside park bound- be seen from the park’s shores. aries. The park’s largest active fault line, • Intact ecosystems: Scientists consider all the 134-mile Lake Clark Fault, transects the parks of Alaska to exhibit intact, natu- the park from northeast to southwest and rally functioning terrestrial ecosystems, appears to come within 10 miles of the thanks in part to their significant acreages proposed Pebble Mine site. and lack of adjacent land development. • Diverse wildlife: The park’s pristine Lake Clark National Park and Preserve waters teem with rainbow trout and protects the same set of species that grayling, but the area is especially thrived there prior to the arrival of Euro- Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake renowned as a key component of the wild Americans. These species include wolves sockeye salmon fishery in Bristol Bay. The and brown bears, whose ranges are park contains critical spawning and highly restricted outside of Alaska. The rearing habitat for these anadromous fish. park includes one of the largest desig- In fact, one of the park’s primary purposes nated wilderness areas in the United in its enabling legislation is to protect a States, and it is a place with naturally portion of sockeye salmon habitat for the functioning ecosystem processes, includ- perpetuation of the Bristol Bay fishery. ing interactions between predators and The park’s forests, subarctic and alpine prey, free-flowing waters, and natural

Staff from the U.S. Geological Survey’s Alaska Volcano Observatory study and collect images of Mt. Redoubt, which is currently in an eruptive phase. This photo was taken April 16, 2009. GAME MCGIMSEY/ALASKA VOLCANO OBSERVATORY/USGS LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 13

ANILCA provides for continued subsistence use by both Alaska Native and non-Native rural residents living in and near Lake Clark National Park and Preserve. Here, KAREN STICKMAN / NATIONAL PARK SERVICE freshly caught fish are being prepared.

disturbance and succession of vegetation sites, and ritual sites that document the communities. The park’s remoteness, lack known history of human adaptations to Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake of roads, and distance from population changing environments spanning 10,000 centers and sources of pollution support years. Kijik, a national historic landmark these processes and help to keep ecosys- and an archaeological district, is the tems whole. largest known grouping of Dena’ina settlements and the most complete and • Telaquana Trail: The Telaquana Trail is a intact record of the last 1,000 years of traditional Dena’ina travel corridor that Dena’ina cultural continuity and change. extends from Lake Clark at Kijik 50 miles north to Telaquana Lake, the site of an • Traditional subsistence use: ANILCA abandoned Dena’ina village. Once a provides for continued subsistence use major route for social travel, trade, and by both Alaska Native and non-Native hunting, the trail is now a popular back- rural residents living in and near many of country hiking and camping destination. Alaska’s federal conservation units, including Lake Clark. These subsistence • Richard Proenneke historic site: The rights provide rural residents with the Proenneke historic site and trail opportunity to hunt (within seasons and complex is a symbol of the national bag limits), fish, and gather plant materi- wilderness movement and a source of als, such as berries, bark, and leaves for inspiration sought out by visitors from subsistence uses. For many Alaska Native around the world. residents, these activities are a continua- • Archaeological resources: The park tion of a subsistence way of life based on contains hunting camps, villages, burial the cultural traditions of their ancestors. LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 14

RESOURCE MANAGEMENT HIGHLIGHTS • Long-time staff members provide • Place Names Project a success. As part knowledge and expertise. Within the of the Place Names Project, park staff, in Park Service, staff often work at many cooperation with linguist Dr. James Kari, parks during their careers, sometimes work with Dena’ina elders to collect spending only a few years at each one. Native (Athabascan language) names High turnover at parks can result in a loss and meanings for places and features of institutional knowledge and difficulty within the park and throughout the developing and maintaining relationships region. So far, more than 2,000 place with local stakeholders. At Lake Clark names and location meanings have been 14 National Park and Preserve, many staff collected, largely by Dr. Kari over the have been at the park for long periods of past 30 years, within the immediate Lake time, committing to both the park and the Clark area. This information is entered local community. This helps to ensure into a database from which a cultural productive working relationships with atlas and GIS maps are being produced. stakeholders and the depth of knowledge These resources will be used to educate necessary for good resource stewardship. local residents, especially children, about their culture, and the tools will also be • Publications and outreach programs used as part of the park’s interpretive outstanding. Park staff have been program. Oral histories collected as part proactive in educating the public about of this project and earlier research have the vast cultural and natural resources at also provided subject matter for two Lake Clark through publications, Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake books of traditional Dena’ina stories websites, and community outreach. produced by the Park Service with Dr. Because the park is inaccessible to many Kari and respected Dena’ina elder travelers, the outreach program and Andrew Balluta. The books are available publications are invaluable educational to the public at no cost. tools reaching audiences who might otherwise never have an opportunity to • Research partnerships gather natural learn about the park. resources information. Since the 1990s, park staff have collaborated with the U.S. • Inholdings acquired. The Park Service Geological Survey, U.S. Fish and Wildlife has acquired nearly two dozen inhold- Service, Alaska Department of Fish and ings (more than 10,000 acres) since the Game, universities, and Alaska Native park’s creation and is open to acquiring entities to study genetically unique additional private parcels from willing populations of sockeye salmon that orig- sellers. Through these acquisitions the inate in (and return to) the freshwater park has extended protection of critical spawning grounds of Lake Clark. Studies sockeye spawning habitat, delicate ripar- of the salmon’s migration corridors and ian areas, lakeshores, and Cook Inlet spawning habitats have led to greater coastline and has further preserved the knowledge of the regional Bristol Bay park’s ability to provide visitors with a fishery, aided management decisions, wilderness experience, natural sounds, and become a solid foundation for and a sense of solitude. examining potential resource effects LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 15

from neighboring mining endeavors. The park is part of the Southwest Alaska Inventory and Monitoring Network’s program of baseline inventories of biotic resources and long-term monitoring. The “vital signs” being inventoried and

monitored include climate trends, DAN YOUNG / NATIONAL PARK SERVICE glaciers, water quality and quantity, lake ice, vegetation, sensitive habitats, wildlife (e.g., wolves, moose, bears, and bald eagles), and visitor use. The park also conducts research in cooperation 15 with scientists from universities and other agencies on topics such as Dall sheep, wolves, interactions between humans and bears, and moose calf survival. Many other agencies contribute to baseline understandings of the park’s resources, especially geologists working on volcanoes and bedrock mapping, tectonics, and surficial geology.

• Traditional knowledge valued. Lake Clark National Park and Preserve Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake respects and values the traditional ecological and cultural knowledge of the region’s indigenous peoples and rural residents, often incorporating their insights into management practices. Local residents have generously shared observations of wildlife and climate trends, recollections passed down from previous generations, and priceless historic photographs that have enriched the park’s archives and have been used to compare landscapes over time. Lake Clark National Park and Preserve’s ethnography program scored the highest of any park the Center for State of the Parks has assessed to date, due to advisory council comprised of local area As part of a research an extensive historic and ethnographic representatives, some of whom have project, these salmon have been temporar- publications collection. The Park Service been appointed by the governor of ily caught during their engages with residents of local villages Alaska—to address management and spawning migration. and communities and with the park’s use of federal subsistence resources. Subsistence Resource Commission—an LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 16

ALASKA NATIONAL INTEREST LANDS CONSERVATION ACT OF 1980

The Alaska National Interest Lands all of the people. In 1968, the discovery of Conservation Act of 1980 (ANILCA) is vast deposits of oil on the North Slope of considered by many to be the most enlight- Alaska—beneath land claimed by Alaska ened piece of conservation legislation in Natives as their own—spurred legislative history. The act created ten new national action on the land claims issue. parks, more than doubled the size of the In 1971, Congress passed the Alaska country’s national park and refuge system, Native Claims Settlement Act (ANCSA), 16 and tripled the amount of land designated allowing Alaska Native village and regional as wilderness. In all, more than a quarter of corporations to select lands for conveyance the land area of Alaska was affected. (ownership transfer) that would settle long- ANILCA was the result of 20 years of negoti- standing aboriginal rights claims and help ation, compromise, and legislation stimulate the economy of rural Alaska. This designed to resolve the division of Alaska’s legislative recognition of aboriginal rights— public lands between the state, Alaska though ANCSA did not recognize subsis- Natives, and the federal government. tence rights on public lands in Alaska— The first attempt to divide the vast public marked an important shift in public policy. lands in the Territory of Alaska was the The act also included a provision for the Alaska Statehood Act of 1959. In granting selection of national interest lands (e.g., statehood, the federal government had to national parks, refuges, forests, monuments)

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake ensure that the new state had a sound finan- for the benefit of all Americans. cial base on which to function; thus, the state ANCSA set a time limit on the national was allowed to select lands from which it interest lands provision, and legislative could exploit resources—minerals, timber, wrangling delayed the selection process. oil, and gas. Such land selection had a The State of Alaska objected to the amount partial precedent in other states under the of land identified for conservation and Morrill Act of 1862, which granted federal attempted to break up proposed parklands lands to states as a means of funding institu- through the state land selection process by tions of higher education. stalling action in Congress. When the As the land selection process got under ANCSA time limit ran out, it appeared that way in 1959, it became clear that Alaska the chance to designate conservation lands Natives’ land claims needed resolution. In would be lost. But in December 1978, the lower 48 states, aboriginal claims to land President Jimmy Carter used his authority were generally extinguished through treaty, under the Antiquities Act of 1906 to create disenfranchisement, or decimation of Native 17 national monuments in Alaska (including peoples long before the states were created. Lake Clark National Monument), bypassing In the early 1960s, Alaska Native peoples Congress and preserving the lands chosen were still very much present and had never under the national interest lands provision. It relinquished their claims. At the same time, took two more years to pass ANILCA, which the citizenry of the rest of the United States redesignated Lake Clark National was seen to have a claim on the land as well, Monument as Lake Clark National Park and since as a territory, Alaska had “belonged” to Preserve. LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 17

ANILCA created ten new national parks, more than doubled the size of the country’s national park and refuge system, and tripled

AMY MILLER / NATIONAL PARK SERVICE the amount of land designated as wilderness. The act established Lake Clark National Park and Preserve to preserve and protect natural landscapes, fish and 17 wildlife, and historic and archaeological sites, in addition to other resources and values. Chinitna Bay is shown here.

ANILCA is a truly unique piece of legis- mining activity along the park’s southern and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake lation, establishing wilderness status for western borders, the most troubling one portions of the parks while also permitting being the proposed Pebble Mine—an open subsistence and sport hunting on certain pit and underground operation to extract lands. Local hire provisions were specifi- copper, gold, and molybdenum. (See cally written into the legislation, which “Pebble Mine a Major Threat to Resources” allow the Park Service to hire, through a on page 31.) Native allotments and Alaska special hiring authority, local people with Native Corporation-owned lands within and specific local knowledge. Senator Henry adjoining park boundaries also have the Jackson of Washington, one of the princi- potential for incompatible development and pal authors of the final version of ANILCA, activities. described it as “a lasting monument in striking a balance between development on the one hand, and preservation and conservation on the other.” While ANILCA protected the lands and waters of what is now Lake Clark National Park and Preserve, it does not protect lands adjacent to the western boundary. These lands were conveyed to the State of Alaska at statehood and are open to mining. There are currently several proposals for significant LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 18

LAND USE HISTORY, PARK As part of this effort, Russian Orthodox priests ESTABLISHMENT, AND ADJACENT arrived and began working to convert the Native LAND USE people to Christianity, and many Russian men Humans began to use the area that is now Lake married Native women. Russian domination of Clark National Park and Preserve at the close the region continued through the first half of of the last Ice Age, as glaciers began to recede the 19th century, though the fur trade gradually about 14,000 years ago. People migrated declined and the economic focus shifted to across the Bering Land Bridge and along its commercial fishing. southern coast into what is now Alaska. Stone Russia sold Alaska to the United States in tool production sites in the northern part of 1867. In 1869, gold was discovered in Juneau the preserve are dated to 8000 BCE (Before and an influx of hopeful American prospectors 18 Common Era). People of the Athabascan and settlers immediately flocked to the area. language group—from whom the modern The majority of white settlers remained in the Dena’ina descend—are thought by some coastal regions and the interior cities of researchers to have arrived as early as 5000 Anchorage and Fairbanks. BCE from interior Alaska, settling the Cook In 1881, the United States government sent Inlet coastal regions and lands along the park’s explorers and researchers to map the new lakes and rivers sometime after 1000 years ago. District of Alaska and assess its resources. Little is known about the origins of the Charles Leslie McKay of the U.S. Signal Corps Athabascan people, a group related by collected botanical specimens from the future language to the Dena’ina of southwest Alaska, park area for the Smithsonian Institution in the Tlingit of southeast Alaska, and the Apache 1882. In 1891, New York journalist Alfred and Navajo people of the southwestern conti- Schanz and his party left the Nushagak trading

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake nental United States. post on Bristol Bay in the company of the post’s The Dena’ina traveled extensively through- chief, John W. Clark, who had arrived in Russian out the region now within Lake Clark National America in 1865 or 1866 and was the first Park and Preserve, and they traded with their permanent Euro-American settler in the Bristol Aleut and Yupik neighbors. Dena’ina homes Bay region. The group traveled by dogsled along were constructed partially underground and the Nushagak and Mulchatna River drainages, were meant to be permanent dwellings. Fishing, eventually portaging overland to Lake Clark. In hunting, and gathering edible and medicinal his report of the expedition, Schanz renamed plants were the primary means of subsistence. the lake, which was called Qiz’jeh Vena by the Russian fur traders arrived in Alaska in the Dena’ina, for his traveling companion. mid-18th century. Crossing the Bering Strait At the beginning of the 20th century, from Siberia, they traveled south and east along Dena’ina villages were in decline on the the Aleutian Islands and the Pacific coast, estab- Mulchatna and Stony Rivers and Telaquana lishing trading outposts and enslaving Alaskan Lake in the northwestern part of what is now the Natives as trappers and hunters. By the 1780s, park; other villages were located at Kijik on Lake their outposts reached to Kodiak Island, at the Clark and on the coast of Cook Inlet. The first mouth of Cook Inlet (named for Captain James permanent Euro-American settler on the shores Cook, who explored the inlet and Bristol Bay in of Lake Clark was Bristol Bay fisherman and 1778), and within a decade trading posts at trapper Brown Carlson, who built a cabin on Bristol Bay and Iliamna Lake brought commerce the west side of the lake in 1903. As Euro- to the region. By the 1790s, Russia began Americans moved into the area to settle and serious efforts at settlement and colonization. interact with the Dena’ina, unfamiliar diseases LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 19

arrived. Deadly epidemics of measles and to serve some of these visitors. Many became so influenza resulted in the abandonment of the enamored that they built cabins and established Dena’ina Kijik village by 1909. Remnant groups seasonal or permanent residences. Dick of the Kijik and Mulchatna River bands relo- Proenneke was one of these individuals; cated to Nondalton, and the northern bands through his book One Man’s Wilderness, first consolidated at Lime Village on the Stony River. published in 1973, and through documentary On the coast, most of the Dena’ina moved films produced in later decades, he touched north to the Upper Inlet Dena’ina village at countless armchair travelers and environmen- Tyonek or southwest to Old Iliamna village. talists with his wilderness experience and The arrival of Euro-Americans brought more descriptions of his life on Upper Twin Lake. than disease to the Dena’ina; settlers brought In 1964, Lake Clark was first mentioned as economic changes as well. While many Natives a potential national park in the Park Service 19 continued to rely on fishing and hunting for publication Parks for America. (Please see subsistence, new opportunities for employment “Alaska National Interest Lands Conservation arose. Commercial salmon fishing in the Bristol Act of 1980” on page 16 for a more detailed Bay region began in the early 1880s. By about account of this act, the Alaska Natives Claims the turn of the century some Dena’ina were Settlement Act that preceded it, and Lake Dick Proenneke, employed on fishing boats or in canneries. Clark’s designation as part of the National shown in this photo Sportsmen and big game hunters discovered the Park System.) overlooking Lake Clark region in the 1920s, employing Carrither’s Point, Dena’ina hunters and trappers as guides. documented three decades of his life at Airplanes first arrived on Lake Clark in 1930, Upper Twin Lake making travel to and from the relatively inacces- through journals and sible region easier and faster. Leon “Babe” home movies. Preserve and Park National Clark Lake Alsworth settled at Hardenburg Bay on Lake Clark in 1944, establishing the first air taxi service to the area and the community of Port Alsworth, just north of the Dena’ina/prospector

settlement at Tanalian Point. NATIONAL PARK SERVICE Alaska was granted statehood in 1959, when most of Alaska’s lands were federally owned. With statehood came the responsibil- ity of dividing up land between the federal government, the state, and Alaskan Natives— who had never relinquished claim to the land. Ultimately, federal lands would be administered primarily by the U.S. Forest Service, National Park Service, Bureau of Land Management, and U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. As the environmental movement of the 1960s began to attract adherents in the United States, people seeking a true wilderness experience ventured to Alaska to find it. Air taxis, guest lodges, and cabins sprang up around Lake Clark LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 20

PARK AND PRESERVE CONTAINS FOURTH-HIGHEST NUMBER OF INHOLDINGS OF ALL NATIONAL PARKS

An inholding is a privately owned parcel of parks’ living cultural landscapes. For park land within the boundaries of a federal visitors, opportunities to learn about people conservation unit, such as a national park or (both past and present) living in Alaska’s preserve. Lake Clark National Park and parks enhance the visitor experience and Preserve contains about 180,500 acres of provide deep connections to a unique inholdings—the fourth-highest number of sense of place. However, park managers are privately held acres of all the national parks challenged to proactively manage certain 20 (three other Alaska national parks have activities that are occurring or could occur in more privately held acres). The majority of the future on inholdings, including logging, private inholdings belong to Alaska Native mining, and the construction of roads, Corporations and most are concentrated airstrips, and commercial ventures. along Lake Clark and other large lakes (only Industrial operations and roads fragment 25 percent of Lake Clark’s shoreline is habitat, displace wildlife, and contribute to administered by the Park Service, and pollution and noise. Cook Inlet Region private land is held around all large lakes Incorporated and three Alaska Native except Turquoise). Other significant inhold- village corporations own large tracts of land ings lie near the coast. in the park. In 1997 they sold the timber ANILCA recognized that people have rights to about 42,000 of their acres to a lived in Alaska for thousands of years, and logging company that subsequently logged

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake this legislation provides for rural residents 700 acres. In the process of logging, the to continue practicing traditional, subsis- company built access and secondary roads, An ATV equipped tence lifestyles in most of Alaska’s national a dock, a wood-chipping facility, an airstrip, with a GPS device is parks today. ANILCA and NPCA recognize and a log transfer facility before ceasing being used to map the trail system at that individuals can be responsible stewards operation in 2002. Some of this infrastruc- Silver Salmon Creek. of the land and valuable constituents of ture remains. Access to inholdings and to subsistence resources is ensured by ANILCA (subject to reasonable regulations), and the use of snow machines, all-terrain vehicles (ATVs), boats, and planes is regulated on federal lands. Around some inholdings, particularly near Silver Salmon Creek, park managers KEVIN MEYER / NATIONAL PARK SERVICE are concerned about the use of ATVs on unauthorized trails. These trails and their use pre-date the park. The park has begun an environmental assessment as part of an effort to manage the existing ATV trails in the Silver Salmon Creek area. The Park Service also benefits from a new access-to- inholdings process that Lake Clark staff are using to address and manage access where LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 21 BUCK MANGIPANE / NATIONAL PARK SERVICE

21 Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake

it has been occurring since before ANILCA original owner and enhanced protection of without any Park Service oversight or legal the natural and cultural resources found on recognition. Any future access requests will the property. be reviewed under the same process. Acquiring land and/or easements is To protect land within its boundaries, the expensive and time consuming, requiring Park Service strives to acquire strategic strong partnerships for success. Partnering inholdings from willing sellers. Since 1980, with land conservation organizations, such the Park Service has acquired 23 tracts total- as The Conservation Fund and The Nature ing 10,020 acres at a price of almost $6.5 Conservancy, is an effective way to negoti- million. Land is acquired as funds are avail- ate the sale of property with multiple able and willing sellers are located; resource sources of funding (in addition to federal protection is the highest priority when funds). acquisitions are considered. In addition to purchasing lands, protecting land can be accomplished in other ways. Conservation easements are cooperative agreements that can provide for continued use by the LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 22

THE LAKE CLARK NATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVE ASSESSMENT DAN OBERLATZ

22 Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake

Lake Clark National NATURAL RESOURCES—ADJACENT intact and nearly pristine, their functions and Park and Preserve’s MINING DISTRICT MOST URGENT processes maintained in their natural state. intact ecosystems THREAT Similar to other national parks in Alaska—and draw visitors seeking a wilderness experi- remarkable compared to nearly all parks in the ence in a landscape The assessment rated the overall condition of lower 48 states—it still contains all species of dramatic beauty. natural resources at Lake Clark National Park present at the time of European settlement. Here, a hiker takes in and Preserve a 91 out of 100, which ranks park With the exception of commercial salmon the view from an resources in “excellent” condition. Unlike most fishing downstream of park boundaries, few overlook above Twin Lakes. biological reserves worldwide, Lake Clark direct human impacts are seen, and all large- National Park and Preserve’s ecosystems are scale human impacts are due to distant sources, LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 23

such as climate change and air pollution. A Newhalen River. Iliamna Lake subsequently potential copper and gold mining district adja- flows into Bristol Bay via the Kvichak River. The cent to park lands—anchored by the proposed Kvichak watershed is historically the world’s Pebble Mine—is the most serious threat to these most productive spawning and rearing habitat unspoiled natural systems. If developed, the for wild sockeye salmon (Oncorhynchus nerka); mining district would be within miles of both in peak years, about half the sockeye salmon Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and caught in Bristol Bay spawn in its lakes and Katmai National Park and Preserve, with the rivers, representing a third of the entire U.S. potential to destroy fish and wildlife habitat, catch, and 16 percent of the total world catch. pollute air and water, and increase local infra- The park includes 130 miles of coastline structure and human use pressures. As infra- along Cook Inlet, popular for its bird rookeries, Mt. Redoubt, one of structure for a mining district is built, it will brown bear viewing, and spectacular scenery. two volcanoes within 23 make increased development more feasible. Park Service jurisdiction is upland of mean high Lake Clark National Park and Preserve, is tide along the coast. in an eruptive phase. DYNAMIC LANDSCAPE BOASTS ACTIVE The Lake Clark region is tectonically active; This photo was taken VOLCANOES AND EARTHQUAKE in fact, it represents the a portion of the Pacific on March 30, 2009. FAULTS, LAKES, COASTLINES, AND Ocean’s “Ring of Fire,” considered one of the Up-to-date informa- most volcanically and seismically active regions tion on the eruption GLACIERS can be found on the Lake Clark National Park and Preserve straddles in the world. The park is home to two volca- Alaska Volcano the Alaska Range in southwest Alaska, between noes, Mt. Redoubt and Mt. Iliamna, and two Observatory’s website: Denali National Park and Preserve and Katmai more active volcanoes, Mt. Spurr and Mt. www.avo.alaska.edu. National Park and Preserve. Its eastern edge borders the west side of Cook Inlet, extending

north and west from the coastline. West of the Preserve and Park National Clark Lake coast, the mountains of the Aleutian and Alaska Ranges meet, forming the Chigmit Mountains, which run roughly northeast to southwest. Lake Clark National Park and Preserve protects numerous large lakes, including the PAGE SPENCER / NATIONAL PARK SERVICE namesake Lake Clark, the sixth largest lake in Alaska. The park also encompasses the coastal waters of Cook Inlet in Tuxedni Bay (though these are under the State of Alaska’s jurisdiction) and more than 6,000 miles of rivers and streams. The Mulchatna, Tlikakila, and Chilikadrotna Rivers are granted special recognition and protection under the National Wild and Scenic Rivers Act. The waters of Lake Clark National Park and Preserve feed two major watersheds. The Nushagak-Mulchatna watershed is fed by lakes and rivers in the north part of the park, but most of the park’s waters comprise the Kvichak watershed. These lakes and rivers flow into Lake Clark; water then enters Iliamna Lake via the LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 24

Augustine, are just outside park boundaries. PARK ECOSYSTEMS IN EXCELLENT There are no documented reports of recent CONDITION—FORESTS, TUNDRA, eruptions for Mt. Iliamna. In autumn 2008, the WETLANDS, AND LAKE SYSTEMS ARE U.S. Geological Survey’s Alaska Volcano INTACT Observatory began detecting potentially signifi- The Park Service’s Vital Signs Monitoring Plan cant changes—departures from long-observed for the Southwest Alaska Network describes Lake background activity—in gas emission and heat Clark’s ecosystems and vegetation as follows: output from Mt. Redoubt, which had previously erupted in 1989 and 1966. As of this writing, Coastal side the volcano is in an active eruptive phase. To The Cook Inlet coast has a narrow fringe with find out the latest information about the erup- coastal salt marshes in Tuxedni and Chitintna 24 tion, visit the observatory’s website: Bays and scattered marshes and lagoons along www.avo.alaska.edu. While volcanic eruptions the Inlet coast. Coastal zones without marshes do not regularly occur in the park, earthquakes have long gravel beaches or bedrock cliffs rising are common. Active fault lines lie under Lake abruptly out of Cook Inlet. The salt marshes are Clark National Park and Preserve; the longest is a rich zone of sedges and some grasses with the 134-mile Lake Clark Fault, which appears to varying tolerance to salt water flooding, and lie within 10 miles of the Pebble Mine site. form an early spring food source for bears Most of the park’s glaciers are found in the grazing along the beaches. Much of the Lake Chigmit Mountains, where the right combina- Clark coast appears to be rising from tectonic tion of climatic and geographic features exists movements and narrow bands of young spruce for glacier formation. At one time, glaciers are establishing themselves into the Elymus grass pushed out onto interior plains in the foothills community back of the beaches. The deposi-

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake of the park. Once they retreated, their former tional flats and lower mountainsides behind the beds filled with melted water and created the beaches are covered with spruce forests and jewel-like lakes found there. alder thickets. Both white and Sitka spruce grow

Salt marshes in Tuxedni Bay are replete with sedges and grasses that bears eat during the early spring. PAGE SPENCER / NATIONAL PARK SERVICE LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 25

Shallow wetlands along the Neacola River are habitat for beavers, moose, nesting waterfowl, and bears. PAGE SPENCER/NATIONAL PARK SERVICE

along the coast, with Sitka generally south of the habitat for beaver, moose, nesting waterfowl Johnson river, and white spruce to the north. and bear. The wetlands are dominated by

Conifer forests have multi-aged trees with thick sedges and willows, and are maintained by Preserve and Park National Clark Lake moss understory, devil’s club, salmonberry and flooding and beaver activity. scattered alder. Scattered stands of spruce rise out of a sea of alder, especially around the Lake side Tuxedni coast and above the dense spruce forest. The western side of the park is dominated by a Alder thickets grow above the spruce zone, thin- series of large long lakes with their eastern ning out into Calamagrostis meadows at the extents in the Alaska Range, and pushing out to upper limits. The alpine tundra zone is very the terminal moraines from the most recent narrow on the coastal side of the mountains, advances of large valley glaciers. Low ridges and dominated by Luetka and Empetrum and forbs. subdued mountains lie between the lake Tundra yields to bedrock and ice. systems. The northern part of the park, up by the Stony River, is boreal in character, with black Mountainous spine spruce, muskegs, aspen and birch, and wildfire. The center of the park is primarily glacial ice Further south, vegetation is a mosaic of spruce and bedrock or till. Most valley glaciers are in and mixed spruce/birch or cottonwood forests, retreat, leaving large expanses of moraines and paper birch, low shrubs dominated by dwarf ground till, which is slowly revegetating with birch, dwarf shrub tundra with ericaceous mosses and lichens, fireweed and Dryas, shrubs, scattered wetlands and alpine tundra. willow and alder. An ecosystem of note is the Vegetation patterns are arrayed in response to expansive shallow wetlands along the Neacola soil texture and drainage patterns from a River, which runs into Kenibuna and complex glacial and alluvial history. Chakachamna Lakes. The valley provides rich (Continues on page 27) LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 26

SOCKEYE SALMON ARE THE CORNERSTONE OF LAKE CLARK’S ECOSYSTEM

Pacific salmon runs have been devastated by changes to their ecosystems from human activities, such as logging, damming, urban- FELT SOUL MEDIA ization, and mining. In the 48 contiguous United States, salmon protection efforts are largely focused on restoration of degraded habitat. In Alaska, however, many ecosys- 26 tems are still relatively pristine, so efforts are focused on keeping them intact. Southwest Alaska’s Bristol Bay watershed is a legendary stronghold for wild salmon and home to the world’s largest commercial sockeye salmon fishery, worth an estimated $113 million in 2008. In addition to their renewable commercial value, salmon are an integral part of Alaska Sockeye salmon are integral to the economy of Native culture and the state’s thriving sport southwest Alaska, the culture of Alaska Natives, fishing industry. About 150,000 salmon are and the ecosystem as a whole. caught each year through subsistence and

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake sport fishing—minor when compared to the freshwater systems and adjacent uplands. tens of millions caught commercially each This annual nutrient influx links aquatic and year. Bristol Bay’s healthy, intact ecosystem terrestrial environments and increases supports diversity and sustainability within production at all levels of the food chain. the salmon fishery, with genetically unique Nutrients from salmon are an important populations thriving throughout the region’s food resource for many terrestrial predators freshwater resources, such as Lake Clark. and scavengers, including bald eagles, Salmon are immeasurably important as brown and black bears, wolves, coyotes the cornerstone of the Lake Clark ecosys- (Canis latrans), red fox (Vulpes vulpes), tem. In fact, the enabling legislation for Lake wolverine (Gulo gulo), lynx (Lynx canaden- Clark National Park and Preserve states that sis), and freshwater fish such as lake trout the park’s primary purpose is to protect a (Salvelinus namaycush) and rainbow trout portion of the Bristol Bay watershed for (Oncorhynchus mykiss). Bristol Bay’s perpetuation of the wild salmon fishery. commercial salmon catch somewhat alters From 2000 to 2008, an estimated 170,000 to the park’s natural ecosystem function by 750,000 sockeye salmon returned to the limiting the amount of nutrients that would freshwater lakes and streams within the Lake otherwise return to the terrestrial and fresh- Clark watershed (number varied each year), water systems in and around Lake Clark where they subsequently spawned and then National Park and Preserve with the return died in large numbers. In so doing, they and death of the salmon. transported millions of tons of nutrients from Estimates have been made for sockeye the rich marine environment to Alaska’s salmon “escaping” the commercial fishing LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 27

fleet and returning to the Kvichak River A 2005 vascular plant inventory identified 571 watershed since the mid-1950s. Since 1955, species expected to occur in the park based on the Alaska Department of Fish and Game existing collections, literature, biogeography, and has estimated the number of sockeye habitat types. Of these, 80 percent have been salmon returning to the Kvichak River water- collected and verified. No federally listed threat- shed, with estimates ranging from 0.2 to 25 ened or endangered plant species are found in million fish, and averaging 5 million fish Lake Clark National Park and Preserve, but 12 annually. Approximately 10 to 30 percent of species confirmed in inventories are considered the Kvichak River run migrates into Lake rare by the Alaska Natural Heritage Clark National Park’s waters, with an average Program; all but one are alpine species. The rare of 18 to 19 percent in recent years. species include some plants that are rare in The number of salmon that returned to Alaska but common elsewhere in North America, 27 Bristol Bay streams to spawn fell dramatically such as raylesss arnica (Arnica diversifolia), and in the early 2000s for unknown reasons. others that are endemic to Alaska and the Yukon, Estimates indicate that just 1.8 million fish such as Alaskan douglasia (Douglasia alaskana) returned to the Kvichak River in 2000, 1.1 and Lemmon’s rockcress (Arabis lemmonii). million turned in 2001, and fewer than Park scientists believe that—with one recent 704,000 returned in 2002. As a result, the exception—no non-native, invasive plant species governor temporarily declared the region an exist away from developed areas in the park. The economic disaster area, making residents one exception is the presence of dandelions eligible for state-supported economic relief (Taraxacum officinale) found in a few areas along such as low-interest loans. Sport fishing was the coast of Lake Clark and on Upper Twin Lake. closed some years, and commercial fishing Park staff have removed dandelions from Upper

in the Kvichak District was closed for several Twin Lake, and they have begun control of those Preserve and Park National Clark Lake years. The drop in numbers of fish prompted at Lake Clark; however, seed banks are long- concerns that climate change or other lasting, so additional treatments may be neces- factors (e.g., ocean vessels trawling for other sary. Because most non-native specimens in the fish species, but also capturing salmon as park have been found only in areas with by-catch) were contributing to a long-term disturbed soil, they are not expected to spread. decline. Salmon counts have been gradually Even so, managers are ever vigilant, as five inva- recovering since the 2002 low, with 5.5 sive species have been found in privately owned million fish in the Kvichak in 2004. The overall developed areas at either Port Alsworth or Silver strength of the intact Bristol Bay ecosystem Salmon Creek: redroot amaranth (Amaranthus and diversity of its wild salmon stocks have retroflexus), lamb’s quarters (Chenopodium been credited for the fishery’s ability to album), ox-eye daisy (Leucanthemum vulgare), rebound from factors that have affected past common sheep sorrel (Rumex acetosella), and runs. common chickweed (Stellaria media). In addition, staff recently discovered European bird cherry (Prunus padus) on park land in Port Alsworth. While the park’s remoteness provides protection against unwanted invasive species introductions, if invasive species were able to establish, infestations might go unchecked for years before they were detected, due to the park’s vast size. By that point, control would be a costly proposition. LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 28 NATIONAL PARK SERVICE KEVYN JALONE /

28 Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake

Watching brown WILDLIFE—IMPRESSIVE LARGE Some visitors to Lake Clark are particularly bears is popular with MAMMALS DRAW VISITORS enthralled with the park’s brown bears. They visitors to Lake Clark Lake Clark National Park and Preserve’s ecosys- play the role of top predator, shaping the National Park and Preserve. Ensuring tems harbor some of the most charismatic population dynamics of other animals in the this activity does not wildlife found in North America. A 2003 system. Bear excrement and salmon carcasses harm the bears and mammal inventory identified 36 species transfer nutrients from plentiful salmon runs their habitat is impor- thought to exist in the park; most of these have into terrestrial ecosystems. Without bears, the tant, so the park been confirmed. No federally listed threatened reduced nutrient input from salmon would offers a best practices and training or endangered species exist in the park; in fact, result in an overall decline in the rate of program for bear- some species that are considered threatened or productivity for all systems in the park. As viewing guides. endangered in the lower 48 states (e.g., wolves brown bear viewing becomes an even more and brown bears) are found in sustainable popular visitor activity, the Park Service needs numbers in the park, due to its intact ecosys- to proactively work with bear viewing guides tems. Because the park and preserve harbors the to ensure that viewing activities do not full complement of species that comprise a encroach upon critical bear habitat or change functioning ecosystem, natural predator/prey bear behavior. Toward this end, the park has relationships can occur. had a best practices and guide training LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 29

program since 2007. In addition to brown the decline is unknown, but it is thought to be bears, black bears (U. americana) use all areas cyclical and related to disease and habitat of the park and preserve. conditions. Wolves (Canis lupus) are another of the park’s Approximately 600 Dall sheep (Ovis dalli large and charismatic predators. They appear to dalli)—the northernmost species of wild sheep inhabit all of the lowlands in the park, includ- in North America—are found in the park, ing coastal areas. The Park Service initiated a primarily along the west side of the Chigmit study in winter 2008-2009 that is using radio Mountains. Although Dall sheep are hunted collars to track wolves. Both bears and wolves (primarily for subsistence), they are not consid- are hunted in Alaska, including within the ered a major game species due to their inacces- preserve portion of Lake Clark, so accurate sibility (inhabiting high-elevation, rocky alpine information on populations of these species is areas), smaller size, and the fact that the main 29 critical (see “Sport and Subsistence Hunting” on populations reside within the park, where there page 36 for more information). is no sport hunting. Numerous moose population surveys have The park is also home to relatively small been conducted at Lake Clark National Park carnivores (when compared to bears) such as and Preserve. The moose population on the northern river otter (Lontra canadensis), Canada western side of the park and preserve has been lynx, wolverine, and American mink (Martes gradually declining over the past decade. Moose americana), all of which can be hunted or Caribou are impor- are hunted by people for both sport and subsis- trapped in the preserve portion of Lake Clark tant sources of food tence. Subsistence hunting is limited by access National Park and Preserve. Six species of shrew for subsistence (aircraft is prohibited to support subsistence in (Sorex spp.) live in the park and preserve, as do hunters. Estimates indicate that the size the park). Most hunting in the preserve and 14 species of rodents, including North of the Mulchatna Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake outside the preserve occurs where access by American porcupine (Erethizon dorsatum) and caribou herd, which water is possible. Many regions of the preserve American beaver (Castor canadensis). The snow- inhabits Lake Clark are not easily accessible and contain higher shoe hare (Lepus americanus) and the collared National Preserve concentrations of moose. Populations on the pika (Ochotona collaris) are also found in the during part of the year, is about 36,000 coastline of the park, separate from those in the park and preserve. animals. This is down Lake Clark drainage, are surveyed sporadically at Marine mammals such as harbor seals (Phoca from about 200,000 best, but seem to be doing well based on winter vitulina), beluga whales (Delphinapterus leucas), animals in 1999. observations. These populations are not hunted for sport because they are within the national park, where hunting is prohibited. Subsistence hunting on the coast is limited because there are

only two subsistence households residing on NATIONAL PARK SERVICE the coast, and non-coastal residents are prohibited from using aircraft to access the coast. During part of the year, Lake Clark National Preserve is normally home to the migratory Mulchatna caribou (Rangifer tarandus) herd. Subsistence hunters rely heavily on caribou for food. The Alaska Department of Fish and Game monitors caribou populations. Currently, the herd is estimated at 36,000 animals, down from approximately 200,000 in 1999. The cause of LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 30

and sea otters (Enhydra lutris) may be seen by mid-August. Approximately 30 pairs of trum- swimming offshore. Several hundred harbor peter swans (Cygnus buccinator) nest in the park. seals haul out at Tuxedni Bay, Chinitna Bay, and Seabird breeding colonies occur along Cook the Johnson River each year. Because the park Inlet and its numerous bays. During spring administers land only to mean high tide along migration, an estimated 122,000 shorebirds use Cook Inlet, it has no jurisdiction over marine intertidal mudflats in Tuxedni and Chinitna waters (except for some influence in part of Bays. The predominant species are western Tuxedni Bay, where the park’s boundary encom- sandpiper (Calidris mauri) and dunlin (C. passes waters administered by the State of alpina). Alaska). In addition to its famous sockeye salmon Of the 189 species of birds documented or (see “Sockeye Salmon Are the Cornerstone of 30 expected to occur in the park and preserve, 70 Lake Clark’s Ecosystem” on pages 26 and 27), are landbirds, and many are neotropical the park protects an estimated 45 other fish migrants. Raptors include bald eagles species in its myriad water bodies. Sport fishing (Haliaeetus leucocephalus) and golden eagles is a major economic force in the region, with an (Aquila chrysaetos)—both of which nest in the estimated $61 million spent in Alaska on Bristol park—as well as other species that breed in the Bay sport fishing trips in 2005. Sport fishes in area: northern goshawks (Accipiter gentilis), the Lake Clark area include arctic char northern harriers (Circus cyaneus), and merlins (Salvelinus alpinus), lake trout, arctic grayling (Falco columbarius). The cliffs along interior (Thymallus arcticus), northern pike (Esox lucius), Lake Clark National lakes and rivers serve as eyries for peregrine rainbow trout, and coho salmon (O. kisutch). In Park and Preserve’s falcons (Falco peregrinus). winter, local residents icefish for burbot (Lota lakes and streams Waterfowl use park lands for nesting and lota) and whitefish (Coregonus spp.).

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake support fishes such as molting, and large migratory flocks rest and Five native amphibian species are found in lake trout and arctic grayling, attracting feed there. Sea ducks—primarily scoters Alaska, but only one—the wood frog (Rana sport fishers from (Melanitta spp.)—are the most abundant water- sylvatica)—has been found in Lake Clark around the world. fowl on the coast, numbering more than 18,000 National Park and Preserve. There are no reptiles in the park. Sand beaches and coastal mud flats both within and adjacent to the park support healthy bivalve populations. These invertebrates DAN OBERLATZ provide an important prey resource for many animals, including bears, sea otters, shorebirds, and ducks. The most common bivalves found in a 2006 survey were Baltic macoma (Macoma balthica), Pacific razor clam (Siliqua patula), basket cockle or Nuttall cockle (Clinocardium nuttallii), Alaska great-tellin (Tellina lutea), soft- shell clam (Mya arenaria), and truncate soft- shell clam (M. truncata). LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 31

POTENTIAL FUTURE MINING DISTRICT ON ADJACENT LANDS A MAJOR THREAT TO RESOURCES

The proposed Pebble Mine—along with its ponds enclosed by four earthen dams, infrastructure needs and other potential the largest measuring more than 4 miles mineral and energy development on long and 740 feet high. Water treatment surrounding lands—overshadows other facilities would operate in perpetuity— threats and issues at Lake Clark National forever—to try to prevent contamination Park and Preserve. The Pebble deposit— of drinking water and salmon habitat. low-grade copper, gold, and molybdenum • A 104-mile industrial haul road between in a highly reactive ore body—is located on the Pebble mining district and a new 31 State of Alaska mining claims less than 14 proposed port on Iniskin Bay would be miles from the preserve’s western boundary. constructed. Freight and consumables It also sits in the headwaters of Bristol Bay, used at the mine site would be trans- the largest remaining wild sockeye salmon ported along this road, which would run fishery in the world, and alongside the roughly parallel to the southern boundary Pacific Ocean’s “Ring of Fire,” a volcanic and of the park, coming as close as two miles. seismically active region. The mine is Pipelines for transporting ore concen- proposed by Pebble Limited Partnership, a trates would also follow the industrial joint venture of London-based Anglo road corridor. American PLC and Northern Dynasty Minerals Ltd., a Canadian junior mining • A new major power source would be

company. required to create more energy than the Preserve and Park National Clark Lake Currently, the mine project is in its city of Anchorage currently uses. A new advanced exploration stage and Pebble natural gas generation facility on the Limited Partnership is planning for upcom- Kenai Peninsula, which would require ing regulatory reviews and working to deter- transmission lines being buried beneath mine the extent of the deposit and the type Cook Inlet and erected along the access of mine(s) that will be constructed. The road, is just one option under considera- permit process will likely begin in late 2009 tion. Hydroelectric power, coal, imported or 2010 and may take several years to fuels, or a combination of the above are complete, but known details of the project also possibilities. design are causes for concern: • Subsistence and sport resources at the • The mine itself may employ both open- park and preserve could be affected. pit and underground mining techniques. Pebble Limited Partnership has indicated An open-pit mine at Pebble West—which that the mine will create 1,000 permanent could be as deep as 2,000 feet—could jobs (lasting 50-80 years), while the cover two square miles. An underground construction phase of the project will mine at Pebble East may use extraction create 2,000 temporary jobs (2-3 years), by block caving to depths of 6,000 feet. bringing many more people to the The mining process would produce sparsely populated region. Workers millions of tons of tailings and potentially moving into the region qualify for subsis- acid-generating sulfide mine waste that tence hunting as soon as they set up a would be stored in two giant tailings primary residence in a resident zone LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 32

community, assuming they have lived in on water quality are well documented in the state for at least one year and have numerous mines throughout the United acquired a resident hunting license. States and include fish kills, significant Increased demand and pressure upon changes in water chemistry and the subsistence resources, particularly moose composition of species able to live in the and caribou, is a significant concern for altered conditions, long-term contamina- current residents and Lake Clark National tion of sediments, and elevated metal Park and Preserve staff. concentrations in the water column and sediments. Mine drainage as well as fugi- Preliminary permit authorizations and tive dust stirred up by mining activities design plans show that a large, open-pit impair water quality and would have 32 mine operating adjacent to park lands may especially significant effects on Lake Clark not be compatible with the purposes for National Park and Preserve’s water bodies which the park was established, nor compat- that are important to salmon and other ible with preserving the Bristol Bay region’s aquatic and marine organisms. Salmon natural and cultural riches. may have to swim through contaminated rivers to reach spawning grounds, which • Water quality and quantity: Pebble could affect survival and spawning Mine would require vast quantities of success. water—about 35 billion gallons annually. Water is a lubricant in ore processing, and • Wild salmon fisheries: Impacts on it is mixed with pulverized ore and chem- aquatic species are directly tied to water icals that separate out copper, gold, and quality and habitat destruction, as well as other metals. Water will also be needed effects from mining roads crossing Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake to create giant tailings ponds where streams used by resident fish and anadro- waste materials will be submerged. mous fish such as salmon. Low-level Access by waterfowl and wildlife to these increases of metals—in particular new contaminated water sources will copper—have been shown to negatively have to be prevented. The Pebble affect the physiology (blood chemistry, Limited Partnership must appropriate swimming performance, sense of smell, surface or groundwater from several etc.), and ultimately, the fitness (survival rivers, and build dams or embankments and reproduction) of fish. Pollutants to hold wastewater. Groundwater in the leaching from tailings ponds and deposi- area of the Pebble deposit flows through tion of mining dust into water bodies are fractured bedrock and unconsolidated likely to occur and result in changes in pH glacial deposits, and it often flows and increased heavy metal concentra- between topographically defined water- tions in the water column. Erosion along sheds. There is high potential for contam- the road corridor could cause increased inated water from tailings ponds or other sedimentation into waterways. Sediments sources to move into an adjacent, but can clog fishes’ gills and affect their uncontaminated drainage. The mining overall health and survival. They also can process exposes buried sulfides to the air coat streambeds, smothering benthic and water, creating an acidic solution that organisms. Chronic turbidity issues often dissolves heavy metals found in the result in localized losses of aquatic ground. The effects of acid mine drainage species. LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 33

• Wildlife: An increase in development exploratory activities has already (haul road, pipeline corridors, new port, disturbed caribou migration patterns and and other mine-related developments) made it increasingly challenging for and people (working and residing) in the village residents to practice their tradi- area will increase pressure on wildlife tional subsistence harvests and provide habitats and populations, and it will food for their families. Although mining increase competition for the right to hunt could bring some economic benefit to animals for both subsistence and sport. some community members, what is not Development is likely to affect fish and often discussed is how this sort of devel- wildlife by fragmenting habitat, disrupt- opment negatively affects the health of ing natural sounds with noise, polluting individuals and the community. Not air and water, and affecting normal land- measured by “baseline studies” are the 33 scape use—including migration routes— stress, anxiety, fear, and divisiveness that with the increased disturbance associ- emerge in nearby communities as resi- ated with the presence of people in an dents attempt to cope with external area that is currently sparsely inhabited. events that they have not chosen or And as mentioned previously, wildlife planned, and that they feel they have no (and waterfowl) will have to be prevented control over. Superimposed on this would from accessing contaminated artificial be permanent changes to the landscape, The region’s wild water sources. with which local peoples have a deep salmon fisheries, cultural bond. clean waters, abun- • Air quality: Fugitive dust from the mine dant wildlife, clear air, site and the selection of the power source • Visitor experience and local tourism subsistence culture, for the mining operations (natural gas, economy: Travelers to a remote destina- and tourism economy are at risk from the Preserve and Park National Clark Lake coal, etc.) may have ramifications for air tion such as Lake Clark National Park and proposed develop- quality in the mine’s vicinity. Increased Preserve often expect near-pristine air, ment of Pebble Mine levels of particulates, decreased visibility, water, and land, as well as abundant and an industrial and increased deposition of sulfur and wildlife. Some are fans of Dick mining district next to nitrogen compounds onto vegetation, Proenneke’s Alone in the Wilderness docu- Lake Clark National Park and Preserve. soils, and water are all possible. Also, mentary film and published journals; Pebble Mine mine tailings may be exposed to weath- some are in search of world-class fishing exploratory opera- ering and wind, leading to creation of or are out to experience the heritage of tions are shown here. toxic dust clouds and the problems mentioned above. The park will need to monitor air quality to identify, measure, and mitigate negative effects.

• Subsistence: Nondalton, a remote village with a population of fewer than 200 people, sits between the border of Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and the mining claims staked around the Pebble deposit. Jack Hobson, a Nondalton tribal leader, says that percus- MELISSA BLAIR / NATIONAL PARKS CONSERVATION ASSOCIATION sion caused by drill rigs and helicopter blades associated with Pebble’s LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 34

unique indigenous cultures; and some Water Quality at Hardrock Mines: The are simply drawn to majestic views of Reliability of Predictions in Environmental turquoise lakes and glacier-capped Impact Statements, by J.R. Kuipers, A.S. mountains. A mining district next to the Maest, K.A. MacHardy, and G. Lawson. This park would undoubtedly affect opportu- report states, in most cases, a mine’s actual nities for solitude and personal renewal in water pollution more closely resembles its Lake Clark’s backcountry, would signifi- potential impacts (before companies’ miti- cantly diminish visitors’ perceptions of the gation measures are undertaken) than its park as a wilderness experience, and predicted impacts (expected impacts could weaken the region’s strong tourist described in environmental impact state-

MELISSA BLAIR / NATIONAL PARKS CONSERVATION ASSOCIATION draw, negatively affecting the viability of ments that take into account the proposed 34 local tourism and sport economies. mitigation measures). Based on other comparable mines, the study reveals that Pebble Limited Partnership has stated that negative impacts are likely to be greater the mine is undergoing extensive environ- than Pebble Limited Partnership has mental review, and that it will only operate if presented. One of multiple core- drilling rigs located at it can do so without harming adjacent Pebble is not the only mine development the proposed Pebble natural resources, specifically the invaluable proposed for the area around Lake Clark Mine site is shown salmon fishery. Approval of mining opera- National Park and Preserve. A thousand here. Mineral samples tions in the Lake Clark region must progress square miles of mining claims have been are being collected to through the scrutiny of the State of Alaska’s staked west of the park since 2003, depths of 6,000 feet and beyond. A mining permitting process, which is now in the early surrounding the Pebble deposit. In addition, district next to Lake stages. Budget shortfalls affecting federal a Bureau of Land Management decision Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake Clark National Park land management agencies, such the Park during the waning hours of the Bush and Preserve could Service, have also affected the State of Administration recommended that nearly a have extensive nega- Alaska’s Department of Environmental million acres of federal lands in the Bristol tive effects on Bristol Bay’s clean waters and Conservation, raising questions over its Bay watershed be opened for mining. Thus salmon habitat. capability to provide sufficient oversight of a far, the Obama Administration has not project of this scale in such sensitive habitat. embraced this recommendation so these A 2008 article in the Alaska Law Review lands remain closed. Efforts to require the states: Bureau of Land Management to revisit and reconsider the cumulative environmental “State statutory standards are inade- impacts of these recommendations are quate to protect fish from the Pebble actively being pursued. Although these Mine…none of the statutes that are lands are remote and currently inaccessible administered by Department of Natural by road, construction of the Pebble Mine’s Resources (DNR) and that apply to support infrastructure (roads, port, power permitting facilities related to Pebble sources) could make a Bristol Bay mining Mine articulate clear standards for district more economically feasible. protecting fish and game, habitats, and A broad coalition of Bristol Bay’s nontra- public uses of them. [DNR is only ditional allies have united over shared required] to ‘consider’ fish, game, and renewable resources—clean waters and wild recreation, rather than to protect them.” salmon—to oppose development of the The article also quotes a 2006 publication Pebble Mine and an industrial mining titled Comparison of Predicted and Actual district. This coalition includes commercial LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 35

fishermen, lodge owners, sport fishing burning of coal, increased marine traffic in guides, rural subsistence users, conservation Cook Inlet related to support services and organizations such as NPCA, and some of ore shipments from the proposed Chuitna the Alaska Native villages downstream of coal and Pebble mines would significantly the proposed mine. Several prominent increase water pollution risks along Lake jewelers, including Tiffany and Company, Clark and Katmai National Parks’ coastlines. have pledged never to use gold from the An inholding on the east side of the park Pebble Mine. includes the Johnson River tract, an area If the Pebble Mine is approved and with a patented gold mine that contains an developed, it would signal the start of a estimated 270,000 tons of ore. Park mining and energy boom in southwest managers are particularly concerned about Alaska. For more information about the the development of mines on the Johnson 35 potential risks to our national parks from the River tract due to its location. If a mine and Pebble mining district, visit support network of new roads and ore stock- www.npca.org/alaska. Red Gold, a film piles are developed near the Johnson River, about the people of Bristol Bay, the cultural contaminants could reach the coastal importance of salmon, and concerns about estuary and be subsequently transported via the proposed Pebble mining district, can be prevailing tidal currents. Although there has found at www.redgoldfilm.com. not been any activity on the Johnson River tract since the 1980s, rising gold prices and Other adjacent development concerns. development of Pebble and its accompany- A 30-square-mile coal strip mine has been ing infrastructure could make mining there proposed east of the park on the salmon- more viable.

rich Chuitna River, prompting the river to be Chakachamna Lake has been identified Preserve and Park National Clark Lake featured on American Rivers’ “Most as a potential hydropower generation site; Endangered Rivers” list in 2007. It is development of such would result in modifi- unknown where the mined coal would be cations to the natural lake system. Because used; yet, whether it is burned by power the lake is adjacent to Lake Clark National plants locally, domestically, or internationally, Park, park staff will closely evaluate potential it could negatively affect Alaskan landscapes effects that hydropower development could and fisheries. Airborne pollutants can travel have on park resources, if the site is selected long distances and be deposited far from for development and proceeds to the their source; in fact, the University of permitting process. Washington has found that toxic particles If development occurs at Pebble, on the from power plants and industry in China Chuitna River, at the Johnson River tract, have contaminated some Alaskan fish with and at Chakachamna Lake, Lake Clark unsafe levels of mercury. Airborne pollutants National Park and Preserve would be from coal-fired power plants are known to surrounded. While some benefits may be have degraded national park air quality in created locally (i.e., jobs, roads, and a Great Smoky Mountains National Park and potential source of power), in a short time beyond; potential park air quality impacts the region would be completely trans- (and associated impacts from deposition of formed, leaving Lake Clark similar to many pollutants on the landscape and waters) national parks in the lower 48 states—an from the Chuitna coal mine are causes for island in a sea of development. concern. In addition to air pollution from the LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 36

The Alaska Department of Fish and Game manages sport hunting in Lake Clark National Preserve. The department employs strategies to reduce populations of predators, such as wolves and bears, in an attempt to increase prey

numbers and maxi- JIM NATIONS/NATIONAL PARKS CONSERVATION ASSOCIATION mize hunting oppor- 36 tunities. This can upset the balance of the ecosystem.

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake SPORT AND SUBSISTENCE HUNTING— state regulations conflict with park purposes as MORE INFORMATION NEEDED TO detailed in ANILCA (the park’s enabling legisla- GUIDE MANAGEMENT tion), and the Park Service Organic Act (the The Alaska National Interest Lands 1916 act creating the National Park Service). Conservation Act (ANILCA) of 1980 allows for Certain state hunting regulations conflict subsistence use of resources in most Alaska with Park Service mandates for management of national parks and preserves, and sport hunting wildlife. While the Park Service at Lake Clark is in its national preserves. Sport hunting on mandated to maintain natural and healthy National Park Service (NPS) lands in Alaska is populations of wildlife in the park and healthy managed by the Alaska Department of Fish and populations of wildlife in the preserve, ADF&G Game (ADF&G), with regulations set by the generally manages wildlife to maximize human Alaska Board of Game (BOG). The Park Service hunting opportunities. This one-sided approach adopts state regulations as their own under a to management—with its emphasis on predator Park Service rule that permits hunting and trap- control—can upset the ecosystem, leading to an ping in national preserves in accordance with imbalance of interrelated species of plants and applicable federal and non-conflicting state animals. ADF&G focus in recent years has shifted laws and regulations. State laws are automati- to an intensive management strategy that cally adopted into federal regulation as long as includes liberalizing regulations to make it easier they are deemed “non-conflicting” with park for hunters to harvest predator species, such as purposes. Unfortunately, some actions taken by bears and wolves. This management includes the the BOG have not considered those Park Service reduction of predator populations in an effort to comments that point out when proposed new increase prey (i.e., caribou) numbers. LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 37

Direct predator control by means such as these species. According to NPCA’s 2008 report shooting wolves from airplanes is not allowed Minding the Gap, better survey methods and within Lake Clark (or other national parks and regular surveys are needed to establish credible preserves), but ADF&G is able to manage pred- baseline information and to allow for consis- ator levels indirectly through methods such as tent population monitoring over time. The the increase of bag limits (number of animals possibility that large-scale mining operations that can be taken) and liberalized hunting may be developed in the area makes the need seasons for predators. Eliminating the need to for reliable wildlife population data even more purchase hunting tags or permits for predators urgent, as “understanding baseline wildlife allows the “incidental” taking of these animals. populations is the only way to monitor changes For example, hunters out to shoot a caribou or to and within park wildlife” (from Minding the moose have the option to kill a bear if the Gap). The 2008 report concludes that the park 37 opportunity presents itself; no special tag is “needs reliable, increased base funding to carry needed to do so. This results in more predators out routine surveys and make headway on addi- such as bears being killed. The State has also tional research needs and ideas.” Some of this authorized same-day airborne hunting and need is now being addressed by the Southwest trapping; this means that hunters can locate Alaska Inventory and Monitoring Network’s animals by plane and pursue them on the baseline inventory program. Manipulating populations of predators, ground that same day. Under the previous rule, Park scientists also need accurate data on such as bears and hunters had to camp overnight before pursuing animals harvested to effectively manage the wolves, is contrary to animals located by air. The Park Service does not hunted wildlife populations under their care; the Park Service’s allow same-day hunting. set reasonable and healthy harvest limits; Management Policies. However, indirect NPCA supported the Park Service’s success- manage for other associated prey or predator predator manage- Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake ful efforts to oppose the broadening of formal species; and assess habitat conditions. But ment by the Alaska predator control programs on park-managed because state and federal agencies use different Department of Fish lands and negotiate changes to proposed methods of record keeping, annual totals of and Game—such as intensive management regulations that would animals killed differ. In addition to discrepan- an increase in bag limits and liberalized have authorized unrestricted baiting as well as cies in recording animals killed through subsis- hunting seasons— chasing of wolves and other predators with tence or sport hunting, in a preserve the size of results in more preda- snow machines. Unrestricted baiting and Lake Clark, some wildlife may be killed—either tors being killed. chasing with snow machines likely would have in defense of life and property or illegally increased the number of predators killed. Even poached—without being reported. Lake Clark though broadening of predator control biologists cannot successfully manage hunted

programs on park-managed lands has been species without accurate information regarding © DANIEL WOOD successfully challenged and unrestricted numbers killed. baiting and chasing of predators with snow In addition to animals taken through sport machines is not allowed, NPCA remains hunting, Lake Clark wildlife managers must concerned that changes in seasons and/or bag consider subsistence take. According to U.S. limits (see above paragraph) have a high Census Bureau counts, about 650 people lived potential for significantly impacting predator in the six resident zone communities near the populations over the long term. Manipulating park in 2000. A 2004 subsistence study found predator populations is contrary to the Park that nearly every person in each of the six Service’s Management Policies. communities participated in subsistence activi- Adequate population estimates for harvested ties and used wild resources; estimated wild animals are needed to successfully manage resource harvests averaged 392 pounds per LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 38

person. This average—which represents harvest and the park’s Subsistence Resource Committee. from the park and preserve and other nearby Significant increases in subsistence and/or sport lands—indicates how important subsistence is hunting within the park and/or preserve, or as a food supply for the region’s residents. In the significant increases in resident zone commu- study, salmon was the primary resource nity populations, may trigger Park Service action harvested; other fish, moose, caribou, and to maintain sustainable moose and caribou plants are also regularly harvested, as well as populations and mitigate conflict and competi- marine mammals, clams, small game, birds, tion between subsistence users and sport and eggs. hunters. Proposed industrial mining and energy Because federal and state programs each development on adjacent lands may affect operate under separate legislation and regula- 38 subsistence and sport resources at the park and tions, Alaska’s dual wildlife management preserve. Workers moving into the region program is the most complex in the nation. qualify for subsistence hunting as soon as they Managing wildlife—animals that do not recog- set up a primary residence in a resident zone nize arbitrary human borders—over the vast community, assuming they have lived in the landscape of Alaska requires cooperation state for at least one year and have acquired a among agencies, constituents, and other stake- resident hunting license. Increased demand and holders. Despite some difficulties, the Park pressure upon subsistence resources, particu- Service cooperates with the ADF&G and the U.S. larly moose and caribou, is a significant concern Fish and Wildlife Service on a number of for current residents who anticipate conflicts wildlife surveys and monitoring programs, with new subsistence users. Pebble Limited exchanging data to build a more comprehensive Partnership has instituted a “No Hunting, understanding of wildlife populations.

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake Fishing, or Gathering” policy for all employees and consultants working at the Pebble deposit AIR AND WATER QUALITY—LIMITED site. However, in fall 2008, a Pebble Mine DATA INDICATE EXCELLENT subcontractor applied for a subsistence sheep- CONDITIONS hunting permit in Lake Clark National Park. With a multitude of small plane flights occur- Ultimately, the request was determined to be ring daily in the Lake Clark region, weather fraudulent and prosecution was undertaken. monitoring garners more attention than air Pebble Limited Partnership has indicated that quality, which is often assumed to be pristine in the mine will create 1,000 permanent jobs the midst of such vast wilderness. In 2002, the (lasting 50-80 years), while the construction National Park Service’s Air Resources Division— phase of the project will create 2,000 temporary in cooperation with many western national jobs (2-3 years), bringing many more people to parks, the U.S. Environmental Protection the sparsely populated region. A mining district Agency, the U.S. Geological Survey, and several that could develop in association with Pebble universities—initiated the Western Airborne could exponentially increase the number of Contaminants Assessment Project to determine workers and new subsistence users. Park staff the risk to ecosystems and food webs in western and concerned residents anticipate that new national parks from the long-range transport of subsistence hunting applications will increase airborne contaminants. Lake Clark is not in coming years, and that non-resident sport- among the parks included in this project, but hunting in Lake Clark National Preserve will Denali National Park and Preserve to the north gain in popularity as well. These topics are on- and Katmai National Park and Preserve to the going discussion items between Lake Clark staff south are. Data for these two parks show gener- LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 39

ally good air quality, suggesting that air quality GLOBAL CLIMATE CHANGE—ARCTIC at Lake Clark is also good. SYSTEMS ARE SEEING FIRST IMPACTS Lake Clark National Park and Preserve is Climate change impacts are felt most intensely subject to air pollution from local sources both in Arctic regions, where temperatures are rising natural (ash and gases from volcanic activity) more rapidly. Global climate change is expected and human-associated (wood-burning stoves to bring various processes into play throughout and diesel generators), nearby industry (oil and Alaska, such as: BRUCE GIFFEN / NATIONAL PARK SERVICE gas development along the Cook Inlet), and • Rising coastal water levels that could inun- long-range pollution transported from Asia. If date cultural and archaeological sites Pebble Mine is developed outside the park, the dust from construction, roads, and finely • Expansion of trees and shrubs into areas that ground mine tailings are likely to become the were previously tundra 39 main source of local pollution. Although power • Melting of glaciers and reduction in the sources for the Pebble Mine are currently extent of ice fields unknown (power demands are anticipated to exceed 350 megawatts), large-scale power gener- • Introduction and expansion of non-native, ation methods, such coal combustion, invasive species and outbreaks of forest employed at similar mines elsewhere have been insects, such as the spruce beetle A climate station at Hickerson Lake sources of significant air-quality degradation. • A northward and/or upward (elevational) collects weather data Water-quality information is lacking for shift in the range of many species, as well as that are used in efforts significant portions of the Park Service’s to monitor climate stresses on migratory animals, such as Southwest Alaska Network of parks, which changes and to caribou, spurred by ecosystem changes in includes Lake Clark National Park and Preserve. support daily park food sources and calving area locations operations. But due to Lake Clark’s remoteness, the fact that Preserve and Park National Clark Lake potential sources of contamination or degrada- Staff at Lake Clark National Park and Preserve tion are known, and because many of its water are acutely aware of the need to anticipate, bodies originate in the park, water quality is study, and mitigate climate change effects. In thought to be good at the park and preserve. June 2008, two climate stations were installed Studies of several park rivers done in the last ten in the park at Snipe and Hickerson Lakes to years indicate dissolved oxygen levels are begin tracking baseline data that can be used in adequate to support fish and levels of metals are climate monitoring and further work to predict within accepted limits. Additional studies changes associated with climate. A third station, would provide a more comprehensive under- in the Chigmit Mountains, will be installed in standing of water quality throughout the park summer 2009 (weather permitting). The Park and of the interconnections to external park Service’s Southwest Alaska Inventory and tributaries, such as the Chulitna River. Monitoring Network, in coordination with part- Monitoring surface and groundwater quality ners such as the U.S. Geological Survey, is taking will be especially critical if the Pebble Mine and a comprehensive approach to assessing and mining district infrastructure are established, or monitoring “vital signs” such as climate change. if further development in the region occurs. Already, examination (by the Inventory and Baseline data collection should be a high prior- Monitoring program) of photographs taken ity now in potentially affected areas, but dedi- over the last century by local residents and cated funds are lacking. researchers has indicated shrub expansion and glacial retreat. LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 40 NATIONAL PARK SERVICE

40 Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake

Solid working rela- CULTURAL RESOURCES—PARK AND the highest score of all parks assessed to date) is tionships with PRESERVE RECEIVES HIGHEST SCORE the highlight of its cultural resources program. Dena’ina communi- OF MORE THAN 60 PARKS The long tenure and genuine commitment of ties are of primary importance at Lake NATIONWIDE park staff has helped to build strong relation- Clark National Park ships between the park, local resident zone and Preserve. The Lake Clark National Park and Preserve received communities, and remote park residents. The park received the an overall “good” score of 84 out of 100 for the park’s history program received a score of 93 out highest ethnography condition of its cultural resources, which include of 100. Only one other park assessed by the score of any park assessed by NPCA to archaeology, cultural landscapes, ethnography, Center for State of the Parks—San Juan Island date. In this historic history, historic structures, and museum collec- National Historical Park in Washington—has photo from the park’s tion and archives. This is the highest overall achieved a such a high score. Outstanding publi- archives, Agafia cultural resources score attained by any of the cations and outreach efforts are key reasons Trefon poses with a jaeger at Tanalian more than 60 parks the Center for State of the behind this “excellent” score. Point in 1921. Parks has assessed to date. The park’s ethnogra- Cultural resources at Lake Clark include phy program (which scored 98 out of 100, by far prehistoric camp sites dating back 10,000 years, LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 41

late prehistoric Athabascan village sites at Kijik Three ethnohistories have been produced for (a national historic landmark), and the historic Lake Clark, encompassing traditionally associ- cabins of hunters, trappers, and prospectors ated groups. The first, Linda Ellanna and who were the first Euro-American settlers in the Andrew Balluta’s 1992 study Nuvendaltin region. The park exhibits a restored historic Quhtana: The People of Nondalton, focuses on the salmon fishing sailboat, a restored traditional Dena’ina community of Nondalton but also Dena’ina fish cache, and the home site of includes the area north to Lime Village, exclu- popular wilderness author Dick Proenneke. The sive of the coast. West Cook Inlet Ethnographic museum collection and archives include Overview and Assessment for Lake Clark National Proenneke’s personal journals. Park and Preserve was published in 2005, written To better protect its cultural resources the by Ronald Stanek, James Fall, and Davin Holen park needs a staff archaeologist to inventory and in cooperation with the park. In 2007, former 41 monitor archaeological and historic sites. The Lake Clark anthropologist Karen Gaul’s ethno- expertise of a historic architect is critically history was published as Nanutset Ch’u Q’udi Gu needed and is currently supplied by the Park Before Our Time and Now: An Ethnohistory of Lake Service’s Alaska Regional Office. The backlog of Clark National Park and Preserve. Lime Village, uncataloged items threatens the park’s museum located on the Stony River northwest of the collection. An archaeological overview and park, has not yet been the subject of a specific assessment, for which the park recently received ethnohistorical study of its own, although it is funding, is a required Park Service archaeologi- included in Karen Gaul’s 2007 study, and the cal planning document that describes and Lime Village community is participating in the assesses the known and potential pre-contact Place Names Project (described below). and historic-period archaeological resources, The park has entered into a cooperative

identifies their temporal context, and estimates agreement with the Kijik Settlement Benefits Preserve and Park National Clark Lake their level of significance and eligibility for Trust to conduct a cultural affiliation and lineal listing in the National Register of Historic descent study of the historic Kijik cemetery with Places. This document will guide future archae- funding from a Native American Graves ological work in the park. Protection and Repatriation Act grant. This project will identify the people buried at the ETHNOGRAPHY (PEOPLE AND Kijik cemetery through existing and new oral CULTURES)—COLLABORATION WITH histories and genealogical and archival research. TRADITIONALLY ASSOCIATED PEOPLE It will be a foundation to prioritize future work EXPANDS KNOWLEDGE BASE AND at the Kijik site. ENRICHES INTERPRETATION Through collaboration with Dena’ina elders, Lake Clark’s park management and recent Lake Clark’s ongoing Place Names Project has ethnography program is a true success story. thus far collected more than 2,000 Dena’ina Members of the Dena’ina community are part place names and meanings for locations in the of the park’s staff, and the long tenure and park area. The majority of this collection has genuine commitment of park staff has helped to been done by linguist Dr. James Kari. Names are build solid working relationships between the entered into a database from which a cultural park and its traditionally associated peoples. atlas and GIS maps are being produced. Two Focusing on the Dena’ina in the park’s history, books of Dena’ina stories—gleaned through publications, and interpretation programs helps oral histories and traditions—have also been foster in traditionally associated peoples a sense collected as part of this project. Oral histories of connection to the park. and Dena’ina language studies are part of the University of Alaska–Fairbanks Project Jukebox, park resources are Alaska Natives, so subsistence a multimedia presentation combining oral management is closely tied to the ethnography history with historic photographs of the Lake program. Because subsistence rights are subor- Clark region. The presentation and collected dinate to the park’s mandate to maintain information are accessible from the park’s healthy, sustainable ecosystems, subsistence website: www.nps.gov/lacl. The park assisted management is conducted in conjunction with Kijik Corporation and the Nondalton Tribal natural resource management. For example, the Council in the production of Dnaghelt’ana park has worked with local people to collect qut’ana k’eli ahdelyax (They Sing the Songs of traditional ecological knowledge. Local resi- Many Peoples), a book by Craig Coray and John dents have contributed historic photographs Coray that includes a CD featuring John Coray’s and recollections that have been used to docu- 42 audio recordings of Dena’ina songs gathered in ment landscape and climate changes and the

e Nondalton in 1954, the first known recordings impacts of those changes in the park. This of the Dena’ina language. And a park- collaborative effort to perpetuate traditional published, Web-based community contact knowledge has also contributed greatly to guide assists researchers and visitors who wish natural resource management. The project titled to connect with Alaska Native organizations in K’ezghlegh: Nondalton Traditional Ecological ark and Preserv Interviews with the Bristol Bay region. Knowledge of Freshwater Fish has contributed Nondalton residents Subsistence management, which combines immensely to the park’s scientific studies of have contributed to natural and cultural resources management, is salmon. Through the project, Nondalton resi- the park’s scientific studies of salmon, an important element of the ethnography dents were interviewed in 2001 about past and which are an impor- program at Lake Clark. Subsistence hunting, current use of fish species for subsistence. The tant subsistence fishing, and gathering rights were granted to information gathered has helped scientists learn

Lake Clark National P resource for local rural residents when Lake Clark National Park more about key spawning locations and rural residents. In this and Preserve was established. Although rights changes over time, water quality and level photo, cleaned salmon are drying on are based on residence—not Alaska Native changes, decline of fish in certain areas due to wooden racks. ethnicity—the majority of subsistence users of beaver dams, fishing location changes, environmental and weather changes, and resource management methods. Trans-boundary issues related to subsistence

REILLY NEWMAN are the greatest threats to ethnographic resources at Lake Clark. Game species such as the Mulchatna caribou herd cross park boundaries and are subject to differing management plans as they move through territory controlled by various state and federal agencies. Salmon runs in Lake Clark are affected by actions and activities on waterways outside park boundaries. The development of the proposed Pebble Mine would introduce thousands of workers to the region in both the short term and the long term, plus more associated with other endeavors in the potential mining district. This could significantly increase the population entitled to subsistence access to Lake Clark (currently about 650 LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 43

FROM ICE CREAM FLAVORING TO MEDICINAL TEAS, NATIVE PLANTS HAVE BEEN USED IN MANY WAYS

Many Alaska Natives and other residents of Lowbush cranberry or lingonberry the Lake Clark area rely on park and (Vaccinium vitis idaea) preserve plants for subsistence. While These berries are best cooked as a sauce or PAGE SPENCER / NATIONAL PARK SERVICE supplying sustenance, these plants also mixed with rose hip pulp and sugar to make provide Alaska Natives with a spiritual a nutritious jam. connection to the natural environment. Following are descriptions of several plants Northern red currant (Ribes triste) and some of their traditional uses. The Dena’ina call the berries nunazk’et’i 43 (“that which hangs down”) or jegh- Blueberry (Vaccinium uliginosum) denghult’ila (“ear it’s tied onto”). The latter The berries are an important ingredient in name refers to the hanging fruits’ resem- Lowbush cranberries Alaska Native ice cream, which is called blance to earrings. Red currants are a can be mixed with nivagi by the Dena’ina. It was traditionally favorite for jelly, and red currant tea was sugar to make jam. made of bear fat, moose fat, sugar, fish, and traditionally used as a wash for sore eyes. berries; today it is made from shortening, sugar, a small amount of milk, and berries. White birch (Betula papyrifera) The Dena’ina use birch bark for fire-starters Crowberry (Empertrum nigrum) and to make baskets. White birch is also Cooking enhances the flavor of crowberries, used to build sleds and make snow shoes.

which can be used to extend a batch of pie Preserve and Park National Clark Lake filling or jam made from other berries. They White sphagnum (Sphagnum wulfianum) are also used in ice cream (nivagi). Dried sphagnum was used to bandage Crowberry leaves and stems boiled as tea wounds in World War I because of its alleviate diarrhea and stomach problems. absorbent and naturally sterile properties (it is acidic and retards the growth of fungus). Highbush cranberry (Viburnum edule) Dena’ina, like many other Native Americans, Although sour, when mixed with sugar the once used sphagnum for baby diapers, and cranberries make a tasty jelly, juice, or syrup. it remains a favorite wilderness “toilet High in vitamin C, highbush cranberry tea is paper.” a traditional cold remedy. Wild chive (Allium schoenoprasum) Labrador tea or Hudson’s Bay tea Wild chive (also known as wild onion or wild (Ledum palustre) garlic) is a tasty herb that the Dena’ina use to The strongly aromatic leaves of this shrub flavor soups and stews. were once used to make tea. The Dena’ina also used Labrador tea as a spice for soaking meat, especially that of brown bear, which has a fishy taste. LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 44

The park is home to a restored double- ender, a traditional sailing vessel used for gill-netting salmon. In this photo the boat is outdoors with its sail unfurled; today the

vessel is on display in JEANNE SCHAAF / NATIONAL PARK SERVICE a special building at the Port Alsworth visitor center.

44 Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake

people), increasing pressure and demand upon rian are not shared with Katmai or the other the resource base. Park managers are working park units, though they lend expertise as needed with the local population to assess and manage and as time permits. Lake Clark has identified these and other issues (e.g., cutting firewood) the need for a full-time cultural anthropologist through the Lake Clark Subsistence Resource assisted by two additional staff members to Commission and community meetings. work as community liaisons for the program to The park’s ethnography program is staffed by consult with tribal liaisons and ensure that a cultural anthropologist (currently not funded communication channels remain open and for full-time work) and supported by the effective. cultural resource program manager, curator, and park historian, as well as by the park’s subsis- HISTORY—STRONG PROGRAM tence program manager, who divides time RECEIVES “EXCELLENT” SCORE between the subsistence program and interpre- Lake Clark National Park and Preserve received tation activities. The cultural resource program a score of 93 out of 100 for its history program, manager’s time is split among the Southwest due largely to the presence of engaged staff and Alaska parks, including Lake Clark, Katmai outstanding publications and outreach efforts. National Park and Preserve, Alagnak Wild River, A comprehensive historic resource study— and Aniakchak National Monument and which provides a historical overview of a park Preserve. The cultural anthropologist and histo- and identifies and evaluates its cultural LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 45

resources within historic contexts—was History Day in Alaska. It will describe the park’s completed for Lake Clark in 1994. This report conception and establishment, and it will docu- focuses on the Russian fur-trading era, American ment its management through time to the exploration, the commercial fishing industry, present day. sport hunting, and mining. It touches briefly on Completion of additional research, such as a the indigenous history of Alaska Native popula- history of sport hunting and fishing, would tions and on the sociocultural and economic expand the park’s historic themes and add rich- impact of Euro-American settlement on Alaska ness to an already robust history program. Native populations. On-site interpretation of history at Lake In 2005, the park published a history of the Clark occurs primarily at its two visitor centers canning community at Snug Harbor on Cook in Port Alsworth and Homer. Themes include Inlet. Other historical research currently under prehistoric and historic Dena’ina habitation 45 way includes transcription and editing of the and activities; the Bristol Bay salmon fishery; Richard L. Proenneke journals; archival research sport hunting and fishing in the Lake Clark of John W. Clark, the Bristol Bay trader for region; and Dick Proenneke and the wilderness whom Lake Clark is named and one of the first movement he embodied. Historic exhibits in Euro-American settlers in the region; investiga- the park include the Bristol Bay double-ender, a tion of post-World War II historic properties restored traditional sailing vessel used for gill- associated with Lake Clark; and expansion of netting salmon. This sailboat is housed in a the historic photograph collection. An admin- special building at the Port Alsworth visitor istrative history is being prepared by the park’s center. The exhibit there includes fishing para- historian and a historian working with the park phernalia and boat equipment; signboards through a cooperative agreement with National feature historic photographs and information. Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake A restored Dena’ina fish cache, donated to the park by a Dena’ina family from Tanalian Point, is on display at Port Alsworth. JEANNE SCHAAF / NATIONAL PARK SERVICE LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 46

The Trefon Dena’ina fish cache is also on view CULTURAL LANDSCAPES—KIJIK AND at Port Alsworth. The restored cache, originally TELAQUANA TRAIL ARE TWO PREMIER built at Miller Creek, 3 miles east of historic LANDSCAPES Kijik, was donated to the park by a Dena’ina Cultural landscapes encompass natural and family from Tanalian Point. It was restored by a human-made features, illustrating the ways Dena’ina elder familiar with traditional build- people have altered and adapted to their ing techniques. At the Proenneke site on Upper surroundings through time. The park’s two Twin Lake, visitors can enter Proenneke’s hand- premier sites—Kijik and the Telaquana Trail— built cabin, sit at his desk, admire the view from are listed in the park’s cultural resources inven- his “picture” window, and handle the tools he tory. Documentation of other identified land- used to build his home. The cabin is fully scapes through cultural landscape reports, and 46 furnished with supplies and household items their corresponding records in Park Service- that Proenneke used, including the ubiquitous wide databases, is necessary to facilitate their gas cans that served as cupboards. protection and management. (The landscapes The park historian, a park guide, and the inventory—and the entire cultural landscapes park’s subsistence coordinator present interpre- program—are managed by staff from the Park tation programs, both in the park and in loca- Service’s Alaska Regional Office.) tions outside the park. Because historical inter- Kijik is a national historic landmark and an pretation at Lake Clark is closely tied to ethnog- archaeological district, one of only three areas in raphy and archaeology, the park’s cultural Alaska with both designations. Kijik village first anthropologist and its chief of cultural appears in historical texts in 1818, but early resources—an archaeologist—also participate Dena’ina residents may have occupied the area in interpretation programs and incorporate the several centuries prior to the arrival of Russian

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake park’s historical themes into their presentations. fur hunters beginning in the late 1780s and ’90s. Volunteers at the Proenneke site provide histor- The village contained many houses, as well as a ical interpretation daily throughout the summer Russian Orthodox church that was built around visitor season. 1889. Following outbreaks of influenza and The other half of the Lake Clark National measles between 1902 and 1909, families began Park and Preserve’s interpretation program to leave for Old Nondalton, Tanalian Point, and consists of outreach and a prolific publication elsewhere. By 1909, the village was abandoned, program designed to reach people who may not though seasonal use continued. have the opportunity to visit Lake Clark The Telaquana Trail is a traditional Dena’ina National Park and Preserve. The park shares travel corridor extending from Lake Clark at books written by park staff at information Kijik 50 miles north to Telaquana Lake, the site centers, community centers, and guest lodges of another abandoned Dena’ina village. Once a throughout Alaska. In addition, the park major route for social travel, trade, and hunting, publishes excerpts or the entire contents of the trail is now a popular backcountry hiking shorter works as e-books on the park’s website. and camping destination. Expanding these outreach efforts and reprinting Although Kijik and the Telaquana Trail are out-of-print works would help share the park’s both listed in the park’s cultural landscapes story with a wider audience. inventory, cultural landscape reports have not been completed for either site, or for any other identified cultural landscape. Cultural landscape reports contribute additional information to the existing historical record, identify treat- LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 47

The Telaquana Trail (views from the trail shown here) was once a Dena’ina travel corridor and is now a popular hiking and backpacking route. JEANNE SCHAAF / NATIONAL PARK SERVICE

47 Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake

ment opportunities, and provide direction for community of Nondalton, and it is the largest management. Park staff have submitted requests freshwater tributary of Lake Clark National for funding to complete these vital reports for Park, so maintaining the area’s health is essen- both Kijik and the Telaquana Trail, but funding tial for drinking waters, salmon, and wildlife has not yet been approved. habitats. Explorations of a gold and copper Tanalian Point and the Chulitna River- deposit in the headwaters of the Chulitna is one Sixmile Lake watershed are two identified example of a mining claim that may become far cultural landscapes that the park would like to more economically feasible to develop in the document soon. These landscapes are located Pebble mining district if access and infrastruc- partly on private land within and outside the ture (roads, ports, and power) are constructed. park that could potentially be sold and/or The park is working cooperatively with the Park developed. Lake Clark recently negotiated a Service’s Alaska Regional Office, the Nondalton contract to acquire 26 acres of privately owned Tribal Council, and the landowners to prepare a land in and around Tanalian Point. Staff will cultural landscape inventory for the watershed. continue to work with private landowners to Interpretation of the park’s cultural land- protect and document this historic landscape. scapes and historic districts varies. The Lake The Chulitna River watershed begins just north Clark website provides would-be visitors with of the proposed Pebble Mine site. This water- information, and while the Telaquana Trail, shed is the main subsistence area for the Kijik, Proenneke Complex (another identified LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 48

Jeanne Schaaf, the park’s chief of cultural resources, digs an archaeological test hole in conjunction with restoration work done at Snipe Lake Cabin in summer 2008. MELISSA BLAIR / NATIONAL PARKS CONSERVATION ASSOCIATION 48 Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake

potential cultural landscape), and Tanalian ARCHAEOLOGY—SURVEYS NEEDED TO Point each have specific Web pages that provide COMPREHENSIVELY DOCUMENT historical information and/or site access infor- 10,000 YEARS OF HUMAN PRESENCE mation, only the trail and Kijik are identified Only 1 percent of Lake Clark National Park and there as cultural landscapes. When permission Preserve has been surveyed for archaeological is granted by private landowners, rangers lead resources. But within that 1 percent, 140 sites tours to Tanalian Point, interpreting the history have been identified so far, including a coastal of that landscape. Interpretation at the site dating back 3,000 years, and one on Two Proenneke site, conducted by volunteers, Lakes that may be 10,000 years old. Based on focuses on Dick Proenneke’s philosophy of known human activity and occupation of park minimal impact. None of the park’s other lands—and sites identified to date—many addi- cultural landscapes are interpreted as such. tional sites of significance likely remain undis- Because Lake Clark’s cultural landscape covered. The park received funding this year to program operates at the regional level, the park begin preparation of an archaeological overview employs no cultural landscapes personnel. A and assessment. This important project will historical landscape architect in the Park address gaps in the current archaeological Service’s Alaska Regional Office maintains Lake program, provide direction for future projects, Clark’s cultural landscape inventory documen- and allow park personnel to better identify, tation. The regional office also submits all preserve, and protect valuable sites by develop- project proposals for funding and performing ing funding proposals and completing projects. cultural landscapes projects at Lake Clark. LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 49

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve is ects planned or in the funding queue at this home to the Kijik Archeological District, a time for coastal archaeological research, small- national historic landmark, which contains the scale coastal and inland surveys for archaeo- largest known concentration of Athabascan sites logical sites are carried out by staff archaeolo- in the world. The significance of Kijik is in its gists at every opportunity. The most critical potential to greatly expand knowledge and areas in need of survey work in the park understanding of the late prehistoric inland include locations along the mouth of the Dena’ina who settled the Kijik area after 1000 Chulitna River, all lakeshores, travel corridors, CE. Cultural, social, and economic ties linked and waterways, and on the coast of the park at inland and coastal Dena’ina, and trading Shelter Creek, Tuxedni Bay, and Chinitna Bay. connections existed between the Dena’ina and Development on private land both inside and their Aleut and Yupik neighbors. outside park boundaries could harm resources 49 The Athabascan Dena’ina village at Kijik that have yet to be discovered, so continuation was abandoned in the early 20th century. The of the park’s partnerships with other landown- 17 archaeological sites there are located on the ers is critical. western shore of Lake Clark—scattered in the Two prehistoric pictograph sites—the only Kijik village area, around Kijik Lake, and on the ones known to exist on National Park Service slopes of Kijik Mountain. A survey of the area is land in Alaska—are found on the shores of ongoing, and discovery of more sites is antici- Cook Inlet, at Clam Cove in Chinitna Bay and pated. This work is important because beaver at Tuxedni Bay. Determinations of eligibility for activity is causing flooding that could lead to National Register of Historic Places listing have inundation of known and undiscovered sites. been drafted for these sites and will be The Kijik Archeological District includes parcels forwarded to the Alaska State Historic

owned by the Kijik Village Alaska Native Preservation Office. A comprehensive preserva- Preserve and Park National Clark Lake Corporation and private landowners. The park tion plan has been completed for the two picto- has been actively involved in surveying and graph sites. The sites are also interpreted in a documenting the archaeological sites in part- book by Brian Fagan titled Where We Found a nership with the owners and descendent Whale: A History of Lake Clark National Park and community. Preserve. The book explores the diverse history An archaeological survey was initiated in of human settlement in the region. The Park 2008 in the higher elevations of the park, Service intends for the book to encourage an exploring areas newly exposed by receding appreciation of Alaska’s heritage and stimulate snow and ice. Although there are no large proj- interest and research focused on Alaska’s rock

Archaeologist, anthropologist, and author Brian Fagan stands in a late prehistoric house depression near Clam Cove. JEANNE SCHAAF / NATIONAL PARK SERVICE LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 50

art. The park hopes to sensitively manage and campsites and digging “catholes” for burial of preserve the rare prehistoric rock art and other human waste as the main threats to archaeolog- cultural sites in the park in cooperation with ical resources in the park and preserve. Known Dena’ina and Alutiiq neighbors and park visi- archaeological sites and areas that likely contain tors. Park staff based in Anchorage access the yet-to-be-identified sites exist on privately sites via aircraft and boat and strive to monitor owned lands within the park boundaries, such them once a year. Tuxedni Bay is near the Silver as Alaska Native Corporation lands, Native Salmon Creek sport fishery, the most heavily allotments, and other small parcels. The sale of visited location in the park, and Clam Cove is a those lands, which appears likely, could lead to popular clamming location. Staff work with development or other activity that could commercial operators and local residents to damage or destroy archaeological resources. 50 raise awareness about cultural sites so that Staff have expressed concern about the possibil- vandalism or inadvertent damage do not occur. ity of damage to undiscovered resources from Lake Clark’s chief of cultural resources has small plane landings throughout the park. identified the sale of inholdings, potential Impacts associated with climate change in flooding of sites at Kijik National Historic coastal areas and the possibility that important Landmark by beaver activity, coastal erosion, sites may be inundated by rising waters are melting of perennial snow and ice patches, and further concerns. inadvertent damage by visitors using remote Looting of archaeological sites is not a signif-

Archaeological exca- vations in the park uncovered a 4,000- Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake year-old hearth. JEANNE SCHAAF / NATIONAL PARK SERVICE LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 51

icant concern at Lake Clark; most looting in Alaska is in search of fossilized walrus or mammoth ivory, or ivory artifacts, which are associated with Eskimo and Aleut peoples but not with the Dena’ina. However, historic arti- NATIONAL PARK SERVICE facts and historic sites are at risk of vandalism. The park distributes information to help visitors recognize and understand the importance of archaeological resources and to make them aware of the laws regarding such resources. The park’s chief of cultural resources is a trained archaeologist, and a full-time archaeol- 51 ogist funded by Katmai National Park and Preserve covers most of Lake Clark’s compliance with Section 106 of the National Historic Preservation Act (NHPA, as amended). Seasonal archaeological staff are employed for specific projects when funds are available, and in general, Lake Clark archaeology staff perform survey work on an ongoing basis. Park staff participate in archaeological survey and inventory projects on private land within the park boundaries—such as at Kijik—and HISTORIC STRUCTURES—REMOTE Naturalist Dick outside the park through partnerships like the Proenneke (pictured) Preserve and Park National Clark Lake LOCATIONS COMPLICATE PROTECTION lived in this hand-built Mulchatna Archaeological Survey. This eight- EFFORTS cabin on Upper Twin year project was a cooperative effort between Fourteen historic structures and other cultural Lake from 1968 to Lake Clark National Park and Preserve, the resources—located on land owned by the 1998, documenting Alaska Department of Natural Resources, Lake park—comprise Lake Clark’s List of Classified his simple wilderness and Peninsula Borough, the Bureau of Indian Structures (LCS). (This list of prehistoric and lifestyle ethic in journals and home videos. Affairs-Alaska Claims Settlement Act office, the historic structures is maintained by a coordina- Kijik Corporation, and McKinley Capital tor in the Park Service’s Alaska Regional Office, Management, and it will culminate in a 2010 not by park staff.) Some other historic struc- report of the archaeological and historical find- tures are found on private land or Alaska ings at Mulchatna. Staff have identified the Native Corporation land within the park’s Chulitna River area as ripe for a similar partner- boundaries and are not included in the LCS, ship. This historic travel corridor and significant but the park is an active participant in manag- freshwater tributary of the park, on privately ing and preserving them. Two of the most owned land within and outside the park bound- noteworthy sites located on park-owned land ary, borders the southwest shore of Lake Clark. are the Proenneke site at Upper Twin Lake and State mining claims are being explored there for the Bly House at Hardenburg Bay. Both are potential development as part of a future Pebble listed in the National Register of Historic mining district. Places. These two sites contain four of the park’s listed historic structures. The cabin, cache, and woodshed/outhouse at the Proenneke site, with about 400 visitors per LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 52

The Park Service restored the Snipe Lake Cabin, shown here, in 2008. The remote locations of some of the park’s cabins makes it difficult for park staff to

visit and maintain JOHN BRANSON / NATIONAL PARK SERVICE them regularly.

year, are the park’s most visited historic struc- completed significant reconstruction work in

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake tures. Naturalist Dick Proenneke built the cabin, 1999, 2001, and 2004. The most significant cache, and woodshed with hand tools, some of threats to the site are weather and damage by which he made himself. The one-room cabin is bears and porcupines that scratch or rub against built of peeled white spruce logs with a stone the logs. fireplace, gravel floor, and sod roof; the cache, The Bly House, a one-story log cabin with a which was used to store food out of the reach of metal roof, was built as a summer residence by animals, stands on 9-foot-tall spruce log legs Anchorage dentist Dr. Elmer Bly in 1947. and is accessed by a wooden ladder. The wood- Situated across Hardenburg Bay from the village shed/outhouse is about 6 feet by 8 feet and is of Port Alsworth, the Bly House has been used divided into an open woodshed and an for park administrative offices and housing enclosed outhouse. Proenneke documented the since the park was established in 1980. It was building process and his life at the cabin in a first rehabilitated between 1982 and 1984, and series of journals, first published in 1973 as an then again in 2005; it is in “good” condition. edited collection titled One Man’s Wilderness. He There are no significant threats to the structure, also filmed the construction process, and a and no treatment plans exist at present. video featuring some of this footage is available Other historic structures found on park- for sale within the park. The Proenneke struc- owned land include cabins that have been tures are considered to be in “good” condition. determined eligible for listing in the National Local volunteer Monroe Robinson, who knew Register of Historic Places, including Spring Proenneke personally and has studied his Lake Trapping Cabin, Red River Trapping Cabin, construction methods, maintains the Igitna River/Kenibuna Lake Cabin, and Snipe Proenneke structures; he and the park historian Lake Cabin. These one-room log cabins were LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 53

used for hunting, trapping, or fishing and are land without authorization. Seventeen cabins— found in remote locations within the park. some of which are in ruins—are considered Historic architects from the Alaska Regional eligible for the National Register and determina- Office have assisted with condition assessments tions of eligibility have been prepared and and treatment plans for these structures. The submitted. Structure stabilization and fire miti- Red River Trapping Cabin is listed in “poor” gation at the cabins is hampered by their remote condition; the other cabins are listed in “fair” locations and the inability of staff to monitor condition. Due to their remote locations, staff them, due to travel restrictions in place to are able to visit them only rarely, so mainte- conserve money and a short working season nance and monitoring activities are limited. The determined by weather conditions. As time Snipe Lake Cabin was completely repaired in permits, staff clear brush and stabilize the struc- summer 2008. The Igitna Cabin is located in a tures. All cabins have been recorded in the 53 far-northern end of the park, requiring a gener- park’s draft cabin management plan, which ous allotment of staff time to reach and mitigate outlines fire mitigation measures (though fire is threats to it. Additional cabins at Priest Rock a rare occurrence at Lake Clark), site documen- and Hardenburg Bay are currently being consid- tation, and National Register eligibility. ered for National Register listing and are sched- Of historical significance but not on park- uled to be repaired in summer 2009. owned land are the ruins of the Russian Several years ago a Dena’ina family living at Orthodox church at Kijik, as well as remains of Tanalian Point donated a traditional Dena’ina the foundations of dwellings. The park, in coop- fish cache to the park. The small cabin-like eration with the landowner—Kijik Corporation, structure sits on stilts and is accessed by ladder. an Alaska Native Corporation—has removed It was built to store as many as 2,000 dried fish debris from the church.

out of the reach of animals. The cache was orig- No historic structure reports exist for any of Preserve and Park National Clark Lake inally constructed by Wasili Trefon in 1920, at the park’s historic buildings. Lake Clark Miller Creek on the west side of Lake Clark; it is managers feel these reports are unnecessary for exhibited at the Port Alsworth visitor center. The the historic cabins, since their documentation cache was restored by a Nondalton resident and and preservation plans are addressed in the Dena’ina elder, after consultation with cabin management plan; maintenance plans, members of the Trefon family. The cache is one however, need to be formalized. In addition, the of only two traditional Dena’ina caches known park plans to complete Historic American to exist in the Lake Clark region. It is included Buildings Survey (HABS) and Historic American on the park’s List of Classified Structures as a Engineering Record (HAER) documentation of cultural resource. Although it has been moved the Proenneke cabin and cache. HABS and from its original location to be restored, HAER are programs that were created by the protected, and used as an exhibit, the structure National Park Service to document historic retains eligibility for listing in the National places. Register of Historic Places and will be nomi- Lake Clark’s cultural resources staff and park nated for listing in 2010. volunteers maintain historic structures, and In addition to the above listed historic struc- park rangers assist cultural resources staff with tures, at least 50 known wilderness cabins are monitoring remote cabin sites. The most signif- scattered within the boundaries of the park and icant threats to the structures are fire, weather, preserve. Most of the cabins are located on damage from animals, and vandalism by visi- private land; a few are trespass cabins tors. Clearing of vegetation and removal of constructed in the early and mid-1970s on park accelerants are the primary fire mitigation meas- LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 54

The park’s historian, John Branson, interprets historic structures at Tanalian Point (on private land) during special group tours. MELISSA BLAIR / NATIONAL PARKS CONSERVATION ASSOCIATION 54

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake ures and are performed as part of the staff’s MUSEUM COLLECTION AND monitoring activities. Additional travel funding ARCHIVES—MUSEUM CURATOR VITAL and seasonal staff to provide annual monitoring TO PROGRAM and maintenance at the historic cabins would Lake Clark National Park and Preserve’s improve resource condition and protection. museum and archival collections include The Dena’ina fish cache and the Proenneke archaeological and botanical specimens, small site buildings are the only historic structures mammal skins, historic photographs, Dick being formally interpreted at Lake Clark Proenneke’s journals and other belongings, and National Park and Preserve. Historic structures ethnographic items such as oral histories and at Tanalian Point (on private land) are occasion- 160 audio recordings. More than 92,000 items ally interpreted for special group tours. Much comprise the collection, 79 percent of which are interpretation of historic structures takes place archival. The collection contains 6,200 archaeo- through staff participation in historic preserva- logical artifacts, but this number is expected to tion programs with members of local commu- increase with completion of the park’s archaeo- nities. For example, in May 2007 park staff and logical overview and assessment and ongoing a Nondalton teacher led a group of high school survey projects. students on a four-day survey of prehistoric and Lake Clark’s museum and archival collec- historic Dena’ina winter house depressions at tions are housed in the Alaska Curatorial Center Kijik National Historic Landmark. This was part in Anchorage. The park’s full-time museum of an ongoing partnership with the school curator, who is shared with Katmai National district that dates from about 1992. Park and Preserve and Aniakchak National Monument and Preserve, is also located at the LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 55

center in Anchorage. According to the park’s photographed represent a broad selection of the current Sustainable Budget Plan, this position cataloged artifacts in the museum collections; could be cut to save money; however, recent unfortunately, the Proenneke items, which are budget increases appear to have eliminated this of particular interest to the public, have not yet possibility. Loss of the curator would seriously been cataloged and were not included in the compromise efforts at ongoing management of photography session. Lake Clark’s (and Katmai’s and Aniakchak’s) Because the collections are housed in collections. It could also be detrimental to Anchorage, and park staff are stationed in Port Alaskan communities’ efforts to preserve their Alsworth during the prime visitor season, inter- heritage. In May 2007, the Pedro Bay librarian pretation of actual museum pieces is limited and Pedro Bay Village Council used grant and visitor center exhibits do not feature any. funding to bring Lake Clark’s museum curator The online exhibits at “NPS Focus” will serve as 55 to Pedro Bay to address community concerns the primary means of interpreting Lake Clark about the preservation of historic photos and National Park and Preserve’s museum collec- other heirlooms. More than half of the village tions to the public. Lake Clark also hopes to attended a presentation showcasing historic have its museum collection available on the photos of the Pedro Bay area, and several Park Service’s “Museum Collections on the Web community members learned how to scan and Catalog” within a year. (Visit save their family photos at workshops held in www.museum.nps.gov to view collection items September. The park hopes to expand commu- from various national parks.) Some interpreta- nity outreach in the future, but a loss of staff tion of the park and preserve occurs at the Pratt would hamper these efforts. Museum in Homer, an independent nonprofit A full-time term archivist—hired with special museum and long-term park partner.

funds in 2007 for a three-year position—is cata- Unfortunately, interpretation at the Pratt Preserve and Park National Clark Lake loging a backlog (60 percent) of archival mate- Museum focuses only on natural history and no rials. Addressing the archive backlog has been a Lake Clark museum collection items are used, high priority at Lake Clark National Park and with the exception of cultural items that are Preserve, and significant progress has been loaned for temporary exhibits once in awhile. made in organizing and cataloging this mate- Staff consider Homer—located at the southern rial, essential for completion of the park’s end of the Kenai Peninsula—to be an important administrative history. gateway for park visitors. While they wish to The scope of collections statement for the increase the number and variety of small inter- park is currently being updated; collection pretive exhibits at this and other gateway loca- management reports are filed regularly; and tions outside the park, specific plans and strategic plan goals for museum collections funding requests for these exhibits have not have been met or exceeded in recent years. been submitted. In 2007, staff from the Park Service’s Harpers Ferry Center, representing the Park Museum Management Program, visited the Alaska Curatorial Center in Anchorage to photograph items from Lake Clark’s collections. Photographs of these pieces will be added to online exhibits available for viewing at the National Park Service website “NPS Focus” (http://npsfocus.nps.gov). The items LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 56 ANGELA OLSON / NATIONAL PARK SERVICE

56 Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake

Much of Lake Clark STEWARDSHIP CAPACITY tal programs and positions that had been National Park and eroded or had not previously existed. For Preserve is accessible example, the park’s interpretation program has only by air, so staff FUNDING AND STAFFING—MORE STAFF and supplies must be NEEDED TO PROTECT, MONITOR, AND grown as new funding has become available, transported by plane. MANAGE PARK RESOURCES especially through the Park Service’s Centennial In addition, ranger Stewardship capacity details how well equipped Initiative. The actual value of budget increases patrols to ensure the Park Service is to protect the parks. The most have depreciated over the last decade or so due visitor safety and significant factor affecting the park’s ability to to inflation, amounting to a 27.5 percent loss in enforce park laws must be done by protect its resources is the funding a park purchasing power plane. The park needs receives from Congress. The operational budget Managing Lake Clark National Park and additional funds to for Lake Clark National Park and Preserve was Preserve is more costly than managing other support its aviation $2.5 million in fiscal year 2008, an increase of park units in the National Park System, prima- program so that these important activities $500,000 from 2007. While the budget has rily due to the park’s remote location. The park can continue. increased annually in the last decade, the headquarters (and an overwhelming majority increases reflect the development of fundamen- of park lands) is accessible only by air, so every- LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 57

thing—mail, food, heating fuel, aviation fuel, Twin Lakes, Chinitna Bay, and Silver Salmon other supplies, and refuse—must be transported Creek. The park has also transitioned from via plane. In addition to the inherent added two-stroke to four-stroke outboard motors for expenses of air travel versus road travel, aviation boat operations, which results in less noise industry costs—insurance, maintenance, and and less pollution. fuel—have risen in recent years, reducing the In addition to funding general, day-to-day flight hours available to staff for backcountry operations, the park needs money for specific aircraft patrols to ensure visitor safety and management projects, including continued enforce park laws. Hourly rates and monthly work on wolves, moose surveys on the coast, lease/availability costs have increased as much brown bear genetic studies, visitor use and as 30 and 150 percent, respectively, in recent impacts, and ongoing cultural resources years. The park needs funds to support an avia- inventories. 57 tion program because much of the park is acces- To increase efficiency and decrease costs, sible only by plane. Lake Clark National Park and Preserve has While much of the cost related to air travel pursued both internal and external partner- is out of the park’s control, Lake Clark ships; one result is shared staff with other Alaska National Park and Preserve managers have national parks. Lake Clark, Katmai National undertaken other measures to save money Park and Preserve, and Aniakchak National while being more environmentally friendly. Monument and Preserve share the time and Simple, relatively inexpensive solar technolo- expertise of a cultural resources manager and gies (e.g., water pumps and chargers for phone her staff (i.e., museum curator, historian, and and radio batteries) are used at remote ranger cultural anthropologist), a chief of concessions, stations at Telaquana Lake, Upper and Lower an Inventory and Monitoring Program manager, Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake

Solar panels at remote ranger stations, including those at the Telaquana Lake NATIONAL PARK SERVICE ranger station pictured here, help the park save money and lessen impacts on the environment. LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 58

a subsistence program manager, maintenance continue to receive good care. There is a growing Facility Management Software System reporting need to develop a comprehensive data manage- staff, and a compliance biologist. The Southwest ment system. Advances in digital data collection Alaska Network Inventory and Monitoring (photography, GIS, GPS, and other methods) Program provides administrative, natural generate more files than ever before, exacerbat- resources, and interpretive support. In addition, ing the need for an adaptable system of data the park has cooperative agreements with the management and a concise set of collection and Kachemak Bay Research Reserve and the Pratt storage protocols. In 2008, funds from the Park Museum, both in Homer. As a result of these Service’s Centennial Initiative, a program aimed cooperative efforts, duplication of personnel at ensuring parks are preserved as the centennial and operational costs have been avoided, of the agency approaches, improved staffing in 58 enabling the park to channel base funds into law enforcement, interpretation, and mainte- essential positions and services, backlogged nance. Funding proposals have been submitted maintenance, research projects, and visitor serv- and, if approved, would restore the important ices. Although the park has been able to maxi- positions of Kijik district ranger and mainte- mize the efficiency of current staff through nance chief that were lost after 2004 due to sharing, additional positions, including a chief budget shortfalls. of interpretation and an education specialist, Troubling for the park in terms of long-term must be added to help protect resources and planning, three critical full-time positions—a serve the public. fisheries biologist, the subsistence program At current staffing levels, providing a consis- analyst, and the subsistence support assistant— tent presence in the remote park and preserve is had been funded from non-operational park not possible; some visitors come and go funds. The funding for the two subsistence

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake without ever once interacting with a ranger. Park positions was made permanent in the park’s Solar panels provide the energy needed to personnel work from three locations— base budget in 2008, but there are still no funds run water pumps and Anchorage, Port Alsworth, and Homer. in the base budget for the fisheries biologist charge radio and Administrative and cultural resources personnel position. Lake Clark’s primary purpose in its phone batteries at the are situated in Anchorage, while maintenance, enabling legislation is protection of sockeye park’s remote ranger natural resources, and ranger personnel operate stations. The Silver salmon habitat, and a fisheries biologist on- Salmon Creek station out of the Port Alsworth field station. staff is critical for the park to meet its manage- is pictured here. Interpretive rangers staff the Homer field office ment mandate, particularly in light of external and offer programs at the Islands and Ocean mining pressures and potential risks to salmon Visitor Center and the Pratt Museum. Because and waters. This position should be covered by visitors access various sites in the park and operational money to ensure its continuance in preserve by airplane, they most likely will not the future.

NATIONAL PARK SERVICE interact with the small number of park person- In the face of increasing costs, the park may nel during their visit. be forced to make difficult decisions; however, An archaeologist and a geologist are needed successful budget proposals and Centennial along with staff to analyze data and communi- Initiative funding have negated any immediate cate research findings to colleagues and the need to eliminate or combine positions such as public. Retaining curatorial and archival staff at the cultural anthropologist and subsistence the Alaska Curatorial Center in Anchorage— support assistant. where the park’s museum collection and archives are stored and the park’s curator is based—is important to ensure the collections LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 59

The visitor center in Port Alsworth (pictured) provides opportunities to interact with park rangers and view exhibits about the park’s natural and cultural resources.

ERIN MCPHERSON / NATIONAL PARKS CONSERVATION ASSOCIATION 59 Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake

PLANNING—VARIOUS PLANS NEEDED 2009 superintendent’s compendium states park FOR MANAGEMENT policy on Park Service regulations such as To guide management of diverse resources, obtaining permits, food storage, etc. As previ- parks depend on a variety of plans. The ously mentioned, the park’s administrative primary, overarching document at most parks is history is under way, with an expected comple- the general management plan (GMP). Lake tion date of 2011, and an archaeological Clark National Park and Preserve’s GMP was overview and assessment recently received written in 1983; it is still used and there are no funding. A subsistence management plan exists plans for a new one. However, the park is devel- and is currently being revised. While loosely oping its foundation statement, which is a defined as a “plan,” it is actually a binder of formal description of the park’s core mission pages documenting current subsistence that will be used to support planning and management practices and information. management. It is expected to be finished fall Lake Clark managers have identified the 2009. The park’s 1999 resource management need for a wilderness plan, backcountry plan, plan is no longer used to guide management. It an updated long-range interpretive plan, and has been functionally replaced by the Project business plan. The park expects to receive Management Information System used by the funding in the 2010 budget for a backcountry Park Service to list and prioritize resource plan. Some of these planning needs will be management and other park projects. A fire addressed with help from a new staff member management plan (2002) provides the frame- (recreational planner and wilderness coordi- work for occasional burns in the park, and a nator) hired in January 2009 who also serves LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 60

the Western Arctic National Parklands, which volunteers prevent theft and vandalism of arti- include Noatak National Preserve, Cape facts, monitor visitor use trends, and notify the Krusenstern National Monument, and Kobuk park superintendent when a visitor heading into Valley National Park. the backcountry seems unprepared and/or likely to need emergency assistance. Volunteers at RESOURCE EDUCATION AND Proenneke’s cabin work on maintenance and OUTREACH—TOP-NOTCH EFFORTS stabilization projects. INVOLVE THE COMMUNITY Lake Clark staff interact with local communi- Visitors to Lake Clark National Park and ties and school groups, presenting programs on Preserve generally travel there via airplanes the park’s history and wildlife. In 2007, 152 (there is no road access); float planes may land formal interpretive programs were conducted 60 on lakes throughout the area, while wheeled on and off-site, reaching an estimated 12,988 planes can land on open beaches, gravel bars, or participants. Programs presented to students in private airstrips. Because there are so many grades kindergarten through 12 in resident zone potential park entry points, most incoming visi- communities include formal talks, slideshows, tors do not come in direct contact with park and curriculum-based activities. Guided hikes staff, but there are opportunities to connect with are also scheduled. Each year, several high rangers and obtain park information at the school students participate in the park’s annual park’s main visitor center in Port Alsworth and backcountry hike. at an interagency visitor center across Cook Inlet Staff work with Alaska Native and non-Native in the town of Homer. Travelers often fly from area residents to integrate traditional ecological Homer into the park for bear-viewing day trips knowledge into park management and interpre- or to stay overnight at one of the lodges located tation. The park also works closely with the

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake on inholdings in the park, so the town is Subsistence Resource Commission (SRC). considered a gateway into the park and preserve. Subsistence is a fundamental value and use of The Port Alsworth visitor center interprets the parks, monuments, and preserves created by cultural history, botany, volcanology, glaciology, ANILCA and requires close working relation- traditional use of resources, and ecology. ships between park managers and subsistence Information is also provided on boat safety and users. The superintendent and staff of Lake Clark recreational opportunities. Interpretation at the National Park and Preserve rely on the SRC to Homer field office is focused primarily on gain knowledge about the values and needs of natural resources. To further the park’s educa- subsistence users in the park’s resident zone tion and outreach capabilities, a new visitor communities, including the sociocultural center in a vacant suite of the Park Service’s importance of the subsistence way of life. The Alaska Regional Office in Anchorage is being SRC meetings provide a valuable forum to considered for funding in 2009 or 2010. engage local communities, exchange ideas and In addition to the visitor centers, park staff information, and solicit meaningful public connect with visitors via air taxi providers and at input into park resource management decisions. wilderness lodges when these businesses request Lake Clark National Park and Preserve programs. Remote, seasonal ranger stations and currently makes its resource publications avail- volunteer hosts are strategically located along the able at guest lodges in and near the park, at the Cook Inlet coast, at Twin Lakes (the site of Dick Alaska Public Lands Information Center in Proenneke’s cabin), and at Telaquana, all Anchorage, and at community centers through- popular park destinations and launching points out the region. Excerpts or the entire contents of for backcountry adventurers. These staff and shorter works are published as e-books on the LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:28 AM Page 61

High school students participate in Archaeology Camp, a partnership between the Park Service and the Lake and Peninsula School District’s School-to-

BARBARA BUNDY / NATIONAL PARK SERVICE Life program. The program uses archaeology and anthropology to teach math and cultural awareness. Here, students are mapping a site. 61

park’s website. The park produces a Telaquana math and cultural awareness. Through the Preserve and Park National Clark Lake Trail guide, available at its visitor centers and camp, students have mapped the Old Newhalen through Alaska Geographic. The Telaquana Trail village site and cemetery, performed an archae- map contains both English and Dena’ina names ological survey of the Newhalen Road and the for important features. Newhalen Portage (a portage route between Park staff are currently involved in historic Iliamna Lake and Nondalton), and studied preservation in nearby communities. As traditional ecological knowledge as a compo- mentioned in the “Museum Collection and nent of medicine (i.e., medicinal plants and Archives” section on pages 54 and 55, the park’s their uses) and water-quality monitoring. curator has met with residents of Pedro Bay to Lake Clark National Park and Preserve address community concerns about the preser- employs two permanent interpretive rangers vation of historic photos and other heirlooms, and hires three additional rangers seasonally. and several community members have attended This is insufficient to conduct the meaningful workshops to learn how to scan and save their programs needed for outreach in the park’s resi- family photos. dent zone villages. An additional full-time inter- One of Lake Clark National Park and preter would allow the park to better serve visi- Preserve’s archaeology outreach programs is tors. At this time, the park does not have any Archaeology Camp, an innovative partnership staff positions solely dedicated to interpretation with the Lake and Peninsula School District’s and education. The park needs such a position School-to-Life program. Now in its third year, in order to properly manage its education and the two-week program for high school students outreach programs. uses archaeology and anthropology to teach LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:29 AM Page 62

EXTERNAL SUPPORT—PARTNERSHIPS provide visitor information, conduct backcoun- VITAL TO RESOURCE PROTECTION try monitoring to determine visitor use Most of the funds Lake Clark National Park and numbers and the types of activities visitors are Preserve receives from Congress cover fixed engaged in (e.g., fishing, hunting, kayaking, costs such as salaries and benefits for permanent etc), assist with archaeological work, participate staff, utilities, travel, and contract services. To in other resource projects, and more. boost visitor services, assist in resource manage- The park uses existing visitor facilities in ment projects, and cover the gaps created by Homer at the Alaska Islands and Ocean Visitor staffing shortfalls, Lake Clark relies on devoted Center through an agreement with the U.S. Fish volunteers, strategic partnerships, and private and Wildlife Service and the Alaska Department contributions. of Fish and Game. In addition to providing 62 Volunteers contribute around 9,000 hours of office space for the park, the collaboration service to Lake Clark National Park and Preserve between the Park Service and the Department of each year. Volunteers play an important role at Fish and Game has resulted in cooperative the Dick Proenneke site on Upper Twin Lake, research, monitoring, and educational activities where they provide historical interpretation related to the coastal areas of Lake Clark daily throughout the summer visitor season; as National Park on Cook Inlet. previously mentioned, Monroe Robinson main- Partnerships with land conservation organi- tains the Proenneke structures. Jerry and zations, such as The Conservation Fund and The Jeanette Mills are longtime volunteers who live Nature Conservancy, have been effective in much of the year at the ranger station at helping the park negotiate the purchase of Telaquana Lake. The park’s dedicated volunteers inholdings. The Park Service has also partnered

Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake Volunteers contribute about 9,000 hours of service to the park each year. Monroe Robinson (pictured) maintains the Proenneke structures and has assisted park staff with significant reconstruction work. ERIN MCPHERSON / NATIONAL PARKS CONSERVATION ASSOCIATION LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:29 AM Page 63

with these two organizations and the U.S. Fish WHAT YOU CAN DO TO HELP: and Wildlife Service, Alaska State Parks, the Nushagak-Mulchatna Wood-Tikchik Land Trust, • Express your opinion. Contact the Secretary of Interior, Bristol Bay Native corporations, and tribes to Alaska’s congressional delegation, Alaska’s state officials, and protect salmon habitat in Bristol Bay since other decision-makers to let them know why you believe it is 2000. This partnership, now known as the important to protect Lake Clark National Park and Preserve, Southwest Alaska Salmon Habitat Partnership, the rest of Alaska’s national parks, other federal lands, and the has secured funding through the U.S. Fish and Bristol Bay watershed from incompatible development that Wildlife Service to conduct fish distribution would threaten their natural and cultural resources. surveys and in-stream flow reservations in • Help support organizations working on Bristol Bay protec- watersheds potentially affected by the Pebble tion efforts. Mine. A primary goal will be to develop a 63 regional strategic interagency plan for the NPCA: www.npca.org/alaska protective management of fish habitat within Pebble Science: www.pebblescience.org the Bristol Bay watershed. In 2009, NPCA will participate in this critical salmon habitat assess- Nunamta Aulukestai: www.nunamta.org ment with teams assisting scientists with Trout Unlimited: www.savebristolbay.org salmon studies and baseline data collection in the Chulitna River watershed to help further The Nature Conservancy: www.nature.org knowledge about the potential effects an adja- Earthworks: www.earthworksaction.org cent mining district could have on park waters and fish habitat. Alaska Coal: www.alaskacoal.org The Pratt Museum, an independent • Volunteer in the parks. Many parks are looking for dedicated nonprofit museum in Homer, has been a long- Preserve and Park National Clark Lake people who can lend a helping hand. To learn about opportu- time partner of Lake Clark National Park and nities for volunteering at Lake Clark, contact the park’s volun- Preserve, providing natural history and other teer program manager Elizabeth Wasserman at park information to its visitors. The park also [email protected]. benefits from its relationship with Alaska Geographic, the official nonprofit partner of • Become an NPCA activist and learn about legislative initia- Alaska’s 15 national parks, 16 national wildlife tives and protection projects affecting parks. When you join refuges, and America’s two largest national NPCA’s activist network, you will receive Park Lines, a monthly forests, plus a variety of other public lands. electronic newsletter with the latest park news and ways you Alaska Geographic contributes $3 million can help. Join by visiting www.npca.org/takeaction. annually to support Alaska’s public lands, • Learn more about Lake Clark National Park and Preserve. through donations and income from the book- Visit the websites maintained by the National Park Service stores it operates in 48 locations statewide. (www.nps.gov/lacl), NPCA (www.npca.org/parks/lake-clark- Alaska Geographic has provided support for national-park.html), and Alaska Geographic (www.alaska- some of Lake Clark National Park and Preserve’s geographic.html). publications. LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:29 AM Page 64

APPENDIX: METHODOLOGY

To determine the condition of known natural 64 and cultural resources at Lake Clark National

Park and Preserve and other national parks, DAN OBERLATZ the National Parks Conservation Association developed a resource assessment and ratings process. The assessment methodology can be found online at NPCA’s Center for State of the Parks website: www.npca.org/stateoftheparks. Researchers gather available information from a variety of research, monitoring, and background sources in a number of critical cate- gories. The natural resources rating reflects assessment of more than 120 discrete elements Lake Clark National Park and Preserve and Park National Clark Lake associated with environmental quality, biotic health, and ecosystem integrity. Environmental quality and biotic health measures address air, water, soils, and climatic change conditions as well as their influences and human-related influences on plants and animals. Ecosystems measures address the extent, species composition, and interrelationships of organisms with Camping in Lake Clark National Park and each other and the physical environment. Preserve’s backcountry provides a true wilderness The scores for cultural resources are deter- experience. mined based on the results of indicator questions that reflect the National Park Service’s prepared papers that summarized the results. own Cultural Resource Management Guideline These technical documents were used to and other Park Service resource management construct this report, which was reviewed by policies. staff at Lake Clark National Park and Preserve Stewardship capacity refers to the Park before publication. Service’s ability to protect park resources and NPCA’s Center for State of the Parks repre- includes discussion of funding and staffing sents the first time that such assessments have levels, park planning documents, resource been undertaken for units of the National Park education, and external support. System. Comments on the program’s methods For this report, researchers collected data and are welcome. LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:29 AM Page c3

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

For more information about the NPCA thanks the staff at Lake Clark National Park Center for State of the Parks® and Preserve who reviewed the factual accuracy and this and other program reports, contact: of information used in this report. We also thank peer reviewers for their valuable comments and National Parks Conservation Association suggestions. Center for State of the Parks® PO Box 737 CENTER FOR STATE OF THE PARKS® Fort Collins, CO 80522 ADVISORY COUNCIL Phone: 970.493.2545 E-mail: [email protected] Ray Bingham Or visit us at www.npca.org/stateoftheparks/ General Atlantic Partners Keith Buckingham National Parks Conservation Association Design Engineer Alaska Regional Office Jim Stratton, Senior Director Dr. Dorothy Canter Email: [email protected] The Johns Hopkins University Melissa Blair, Field Representative Dr. Francisco Dallmeier Email: [email protected] Smithsonian Institution Phone: 907.277.6722 Dr. Sylvia Earle National Geographic Explorer-in-Residence Natural Resources Researcher: Dr. Glenn E. Haas John Watson, MS/MBA, Evergreen Consulting Associates Colorado State University Cultural Resources Researcher: Dr. Elizabeth A. Hadly Catherine Moore, Masters Candidate, Colorado State University Stanford University Key Contributor: Bruce Judd Melissa Blair, Alaska Field Representative, Architectural Resources Group National Parks Conservation Association Karl Komatsu Writer: Teri Kman Komatsu Architecture Editor: Elizabeth Meyers Copy Editor: Kelly Senser Dr. Thomas Lovejoy Design/Layout: Paul Caputo H. John Heinz III Center for Science, Economics, and the Environment Center for State of the Parks Staff: Robert Melnick Dr. James Nations, Vice President University of Oregon Dr. Gail Dethloff, Director Dr. Guy DiDonato, Natural Resources Program Manager Dr. Kenton Miller Erin McPherson, Cultural Resources Program Manager World Resources Institute, World Commission on Elizabeth Meyers, Publications Manager Protected Areas Kat Byerly, Cultural Resources Coordinator Alec Rhodes Megan Lowery, Natural Resources Coordinator Austin, Texas Daniel Saxton, Publications Coordinator Dr. Roger Sayre United States Geological Survey

e nvi r o n men t a l b e n e f its s tatemen t Dr. William Schlesinger of using post-consumer waste fiber vs. virgin fiber Cary Institute of Ecosystem Studies National Parks Conservation Association saved the following resources by using New Leaf Reincarnation Matte, made with 100% recycled fiber and 50% post-consumer waste, processed chlorine free, and manu- factured with electricity that is offset with Green-e® certified renewable energy certificates: Dr. Douglas Schwartz greenhouse School for Advanced Research trees water energy solid waste gases

11 2,416 5 529 893 Dr. Lee Talbot fully grown gallons million Btu pounds pounds George Mason University Calculations based on research by Environmental Defense Fund and other members of the Paper Task Force. www.newleafpaper.com Copyright 2009 National Parks Conservation Association LACL.qxd:GRBA 6/24/09 7:29 AM Page c4

OTHER REPORTS AVAILABLE

Adams National Historical Park (MA) Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore (IN) Andersonville National Historic Site (GA) Isle Royale National Park (MI) Andrew Johnson National Historic Site (TN) Joshua Tree National Park (CA) Apostle Islands National Lakeshore (WI) Keweenaw National Historical Park (MI) Appomattox Court House National Historical Park (VA) Knife River Indian Villages National Historic Site (ND) Assateague Island National Seashore (MD, VA) Lewis and Clark National Historical Park (OR) Big Bend National Park (TX) Lewis and Clark National Historic Trail (various) Big Hole National Battlefield (MT) Little Bighorn Battlefield National Monument (MT) Big Thicket National Preserve (TX) Longfellow National Historic Site (MA) Biscayne National Park (FL) Missouri National Recreational River (NE) Bryce Canyon National Park (UT) Mojave National Preserve (CA) Cabrillo National Monument (CA) Nez Perce National Historical Park (WA, ID, MT, OR) Canyonlands National Park (UT) Olympic National Park (WA) Catoctin Mountain Park (MD) Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore (MI) Channel Islands National Park (CA) Point Reyes National Seashore (CA) Charles Pinckney National Historic Site (SC) Redwood National and State Parks (CA) Chesapeake and Ohio Canal National Historical Park Rocky Mountain National Park (CO) (DC/MD/WV) Saint-Gaudens National Historic Site (NH) Chickamauga and Chattanooga National Military Park San Antonio Missions National Historical Park (TX) (TN/GA) San Juan Island National Historical Park (WA) Cumberland Island National Seashore (GA) Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area Death Valley National Park (CA) (CA) Denali National Park and Preserve (AK) Shenandoah National Park (VA) Fort Donelson National Battlefield (TN) Shiloh National Military Park (TN/MS) Fort Laramie National Historic Site (WY) Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore (MI) Fort Necessity National Battlefield (PA) Stones River National Battlefield (TN) Fort Pulaski National Monument (GA) Vicksburg National Military Park (MS) Fort Sumter National Monument (SC) Virgin Islands National Park Fort Union Trading Post National Historic Site (ND) Virgin Islands Coral Reef National Monument Frederick Douglass National Historic Site (DC) Waterton-Glacier International Peace Park Gateway National Recreation Area (NY) (MT-Alberta) Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve (AK) Zion National Park (UT) Great Basin National Park (NV) Great Smoky Mountains National Park (TN/NC) Please visit www.npca.org/stateoftheparks/ to view Harpers Ferry National Historical Park (WV) these reports and to learn more about the Center for Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park State of the Parks®. Hopewell Furnace National Historic Site (PA)

1300 19th Street, N.W., Suite 300 Washington, DC 20036 p/ 202.223.6722 f/ 202.659.0650 Cert no. SCS-COC-002324 www.npca.org

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