Keys TravelerThe Magazine

New Keys Resorts Debuting Saving ‘Old 7’ Keys Fishing Captain Marks His 50th Year Sidewalk Poetry Your Recipe to the Keys fla-keys.com ROB O’NEAL ANDY NEWMAN Keys Traveler The Magazine

Editor Andy Newman Managing Editor Carol Shaughnessy 16 Copy Editor Buck Banks Writers Julie Botteri 10 Briana Ciraulo We do! Chloe Lykes

“Keys Traveler” 9 NANCY TOBIN is published by the Monroe County Tourist Development Council, the official visitor marketing Contents agency for the & . 4 New Keys Resorts Welcoming Travelers Director Harold Wheeler 7 ‘Sidewalk Poetry’ Underfoot in Key West Director of Sales 8 Annual Coral Spawn is a Ritual Stacey Mitchell Through the Looking Glass Florida Keys & Key West Your Recipe to the Keys Visitor Information 9 www.fla-keys.com 10 Follow the Florida Keys Overseas Paddling www.fla-keys.co.uk Saving ‘Old 7’ www.fla-keys.de 12 www.fla-keys.it 13 Ghost Tours in Key West www.fla-keys.ie www.fla-keys.fr 14 Lights, Camera, Action: Shot in the Keys www.fla-keys.nl 15 Feed the Fishes at Keys Aquarium Encounters www.fla-keys.be Toll-Free in the U.S. and Canada 16 Skip Bradeen Marks 50 Years in the Fish Biz 1-800-FLA-KEYS 17 Key West Fishing Tournament Celebrating 50th For the free monthly “Keys Traveler” 18 Birding Takes Flight in the Florida Keys electronic newsletter, 19 Charters Offer Unique Excursions Adam Moss and Stacey Lucich embrace subscribe at Lower Keys Artist Sculpts ‘Fishy’ Creations after their marriage at Hawks Cay www.fla-keys.com/keystraveler 20 Traveling Tips to the Florida Keys Resort in Marathon. Couples worldwide ©2014-’15 Monroe County Tourist travel to the Florida Keys to combine Development Council tropical and traditional wedding Printed in the U.S.A. ceremonies into memorable By Original Impressions What’s This? experiences. Keys wedding facebook.com/floridakeysandkeywest You’ll find this QR code planners and other providers offer accompanying many all the support brides, grooms, stories in this issue of families and friends require. “Keys Traveler.” The QR @thefloridakeys codes can be scanned fla-keys.com/weddings by most smartphones. Activate the app, aim your phone at the bar code and you’ll youtube.com/user/FloridaKeysTV be automatically taken to a corresponding website or video for more information.

Insta For iPhones and iPads, QR readers can be downloaded free at the Apple App Store. keysvoices.com @thefloridakeys

BOB CARE Cover photo of a sun worshiper enjoying the beach in Key West by Rob O’Neal which re-opened in January 2015. JULIE BOTTERI 125-room Hyatt Place hotel with All of the 63 waterfront guestrooms two pools, a fitness center, meeting New Keys Resorts Welcoming Travelers and suites were redecorated and space and a waterfront restaurant upgraded with modern amenities. and outdoor bar called Lighthouse In addition to enhancements to the Grill. Boaters can enjoy a 74-slip meeting areas, pool and restaurant, state-of-the art marina that can Pelican Cove now offers a variety handle vessels up to 100 feet long. of programs including yoga, paddle- At the southernmost tip of the boarding, sunrise oil painting and a Keys island chain lies eclectic, macramé beading class. artistic Key West — and travelers Particularly notable is the recent now are welcomed at the island’s re-launch of the Islamorada Resort entrance by The Gates Hotel Key as Amara Cay Resort, an upscale West. With the first building opened boutique hotel. Property renova- in spring 2015 and the second set tions included increasing the num- for later in 2015, the new 245-room ber of rooms and suites to 110, hotel blends refined luxury, minimal- updating outdoor amenities and cre- ist design, artwork, food and music ating Oltremare, an upscale Italian- into a chic and comfortable lodging style eatery. Guests can anticipate experience. daily food and beverage experi- Guest rooms feature whitewashed ences and a Mercedes shuttle to beams, custom cypress platform Islamorada’s most popular locales. beds and photography from an Also in Islamorada, after a year- exclusive local gallery. long multi-million dollar renovation, Other highlights include the Rum the Islander Resort has joined the Row bar, two large swimming pools expanding collection of Guy Har- with cabanas and daybeds, a res- vey Outpost Resorts. Renovations It has a new Hyatt Place hotel, but the taurant featuring breakfast, lunch Artist’s rendering of Playa Largo Resort & Spa in Key Largo, which is set to open in late 2015. include upgrades throughout both iconic Faro Blanco Lighthouse remains and dinner, fitness and business the main 114-unit oceanside prop- and is shining once again at the Faro centers, and an atmosphere remi- cccommodations options room, a secluded white sand beach Blanco Resort & Yacht Club. By Carol Shaughnessy erty and the 25-unit bayside marina niscent of “old Key West.” in the Florida Keys, like the and much more. townhouse compound. The small Yacht Club with ease: it incor- The southernmost city’s Historic newest hotel to join Marriott’s A125-mile-long island chain In Islamorada, four leading lodg- collection of Guy Harvey resorts porates the famed Faro Blanco Seaport, one of the most popular Autograph Collection, set to open itself, reflect a colorful diversity of ings — Postcard Inn Beach Resort and lodges showcases Harvey’s Lighthouse, a Middle Keys landmark gathering places for visitors and in late 2015. The 14-acre water- cultural and historic influences. at Holiday Isle, La Siesta Resort, marine wildlife art, scientific re- since the 1950s. residents alike, houses a lively front resort is to feature 144 luxury Visitors can discover these influ- Pelican Cove Resort and Marina search and conservation advocacy. With the lighthouse as its “bea- diversity of restaurants, shops and rooms and suites. ences by staying in resort hotels and the Islamorada Resort — now Vacationers should be able to con,” the recently opened Mara- attractions. The district’s newest Amenities include a private ma- frequented by playwrights and presi- comprise the Islamorada Resort spot The Faro Blanco Resort & thon property features an upscale gem is The Marker Waterfront dents, inns evolved from stately rina, multiple bars and restaurants, Company and are seeing significant homes that sheltered cigar barons full-service spa and fitness offer- enhancements. and shipwreck salvagers, Victorian ings, a beach house for private or The first of this group of proper- gems built by merchants and mil- corporate functions, wedding and ties to complete renovations was lionaires, or even former fish camps conference facilities including a ball- Pelican Cove Resort and Marina, exuding rustic waterfront charm. JUAN FERNANDO AYOR Whether new or carefully re- stored, the lodging properties from Key Largo to Key West are rich in atmosphere and amenities. From late 2014 through 2015 nine new properties, comprising just over 1,000 rooms, and a num- ber of renovated lodgings are to welcome Keys visitors. Like the cur- rent accommodations options, each will showcase aspects of the island chain’s attractions and appeal. They begin at the head of the Keys in Key Largo with the elegant Playa Largo Resort and Spa, the The new lobby at the Amara Cay Resort. The Marker Waterfront Resort features 96 rooms and is conveniently located in Key West’s Historic Seaport district.

4 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be 5 ANDY NEWMAN CAROL TEDESCO Another Duval Street property is seeing a major change in 2015. The Southern Cross Hotel has been purchased by the owner of the Saint Hotel New Orleans and has transformed and rebranded into the Saint Hotel Key West. The historic two-story building features 37 renovated guest rooms and six suites. Also featured are a large landscaped pool, cabana area, sprawling lobby bar and 75-person balcony overlooking Duval Street. Appealing as they are, these are only a handful of the Keys proper- ties debuting enhancements or opening. Others include Islamo- rada’s renovated Smuggler’s Cove Resort and Marina, Marathon’s new Courtyard by Marriott, the reno- The Islander Resort features the Florida Keys Conference Center. vated Tranquility Bay Beach House Resort, a two-acre luxury property undergone significant renovations Resort, Captain Pip’s Marina & Hide- that debuted in December 2014. to the 160-unit property. The hotel away and the recently purchased The 96-room resort combines a lobby has been upgraded with styl- Banana Bay Resort & Marina. Key modern and timeless aesthetic with ish parquet flooring and shades of West is set to see several new the free spirit and tropical nature ivory, white and mahogany adorn all properties including the Fairfield Inn of the Key West community. Four interiors from the seating area to & Suites and Hilton Garden Inn, as room categories are available, of- the bar lounge. well as renovations to the recently fering marina, pool, garden and Old La Concha guests can enjoy en- purchased Doubletree Grand Key Town views. hanced restaurant offerings at the Resort, Gardens Hotel, Spindrift Surrounded by lush landscap- new 430 Duval and a vast selection Hotel, Southwinds Motel, Ocean ing, guests can relax and swim at of fine wines from around the world Breeze Inn, Olivia by Duval and La multiple swimming pools, complete at the Wine-O wine bar. La Concha Te Da Hotel. with poolside cocktail service, sa- also has completed Top Spa, a These new and revitalized Flor- vor Cali-Mex–inspired cuisine at the new spa located on the top floor ida Keys properties — with their on-site Cero Bodega or enjoy the of the building. The indulgent spa diverse designs, amenities, prices ocean view. menu includes three- and four-hour and locations — will add their own Located on the heart of Duval packages including everything from unique flavors to the Keys’ intrigu- Street, the classic Crowne Plaza body treatments and facials to nail ing mix as they welcome visitors ‘Sidewalk Poetry’ Key West La Concha has recently services and massages. eager to experience and explore the island chain. Underfoot in Key West Information amaracayresort.com edestrians strolling the sidewalks of Key West, ette on our pavements — the pages of our city,” said faroblancoresort.com former home of literary notables from Ernest board chairman Michael Shields. gateshotelkeywest.com PHemingway to Tennessee Williams, should look The first “sidewalk poem” was unveiled outside down while they’re walking — because they just might Captain Tony’s Saloon, the former site of Sloppy Joe’s guyharveyoutpostislamorada.com encounter a poem. Bar, which was a frequent haunt of Ernest Hemingway holidayisle.com (Postcard Inn) Spearheaded by the city’s Art in Public Places Board, during his residence in Key West throughout most of laconchakeywest.com 17 concrete-etched “sidewalk poems” by local writers the 1930s. lasiestaresort.com are being installed around the island city. Poems were Among others is a tribute in verse to the late Key pelicancovehotel.com chosen from more than 200 submissions by Florida Wester Shel Silverstein, a poet and songwriter whose playalargoresort.com Keys writers competing to stop passersby in their notable works include the best-selling children’s poetry tracks with their words. book, “Where the Sidewalk Ends.” thesainthotelkeywest.com “This project expands our understanding of Key — Carol Shaughnessy themarkerkeywest.com Among accommodations offerings at The Gates Hotel Key West is this king room. West’s literary tapestry and gives poets their own pal- artinpublicplaceskw.com

6 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be 7 Roasted Florida Keys Lobster Through the Prepared by Cheeca Lodge’s Richard Smith Looking Glass hough and diving are great ways to discover the Tundersea world of the Florida Keys National Marine Sanctuary, glass-bottom boat tours provide an alternative for those who prefer to view marine life without getting wet. Up to 130 passengers can travel in style and comfort aboard the 65-foot high-speed glass-bottom catamaran Spirit of Pennekamp. Daily 2.5-hour excursions that depart from John Pennekamp State Park at mile marker (MM) 102.5 oceanside include plenty of viewing time to see reefs and diverse marine life. Guests also can explore the underwater world aboard the Key

BOB CARE Largo Princess, a 75-foot glass- Your Recipe to the Keys Diver Penny Bailey observes tiny eggs and sperm erupt from a portion of the bottom yacht offering seating on Florida Keys’ coral reef off Key Largo. an outside sun deck or inside an air-conditioned salon. With 280 rom the unique locals and feel that is indigenous to the Keys,” square feet of viewing windows, By vibrantBriana turquoise Ciraulo waters • to Photographysaid Smith. by Nancy Tobin Annual Coral Spawn each passenger can get an Fthe exciting history and home- For those without access to Keys unforgettable look at the Keys’ grown cuisine, every element of the lobster, several other seafood marine environment. The vessel Florida Keys is colorful. delicacies can be substituted includ- Is a Key Largo Ritual sails from the Holiday Inn Key Largo Executive Chef Richard Smith of ing langoustines, jumbo prawns or at MM 100 oceanside. Islamorada’s iconic Cheeca Lodge Maine lobster. ivers and snorkelers observing the Keys’ reefs at night can witness a Ocean Vue I, a high-speed & Spa showcases the lively colors “My advice to those trying to re- fascinating reproductive phenomenon when corals release eggs and hydrofoil vessel outfitted with of the subtropical island chain in his create this dish is to have fun with Dsperm during synchronized mass-spawning events, usually triggered a special curved glass-bottom mouthwatering roasted Florida Keys it,” Smith said. “Don’t take cooking around the August and September full moons. window that doubles magnification, lobster dish. too seriously. It doesn’t have to In a display likened to an “upside-down underwater snowstorm” millions combines the glass-bottom boat The dish features ingredients that come out perfect — just make it of gametes enter the water in a massive white excretion over a broad experience with snorkeling and a reflect the Keys’ tropical ambiance your own.” Cheeca Executive Chef Richard Smith geographic area, maximizing the chances of fertilization and overwhelming memorable dolphin encounter. The including fresh succulent Florida predators with more food than they can consume. boat accommodates six guests and lobster, organic black rice, baby Two 2 lb. (.9kg)...... Florida Keys lobsters Fragile, newly united egg and sperm form “planulae,” larvae that ascend is based at Jimmy Johnson’s Big zucchini and tropical fruits like 1 cup (237ml)...... organic black rice One...... orange (segmented) to free-float in surface currents, eventually settling to the bottom to be- Chill complex at MM 104 bayside. mango and dragon fruit. come polyps and later form coral colonies. — Chloe Lykes 1/2 lb. (226g)...... baby zucchini (cut on a bias) Born and raised in Kingston, ¼ lb. (113g)...... medium brussels sprouts The underwater exchange means the continued survival of coral reefs, in- pennekamppark.com Jamaica, Smith has a rich profes- One...... dragon fruit cluding boulder corals such as brain and star corals, and branching corals keylargoprincess.com sional background, including an 1 cup (237ml)...... mango puree like elkhorn and staghorn. keysadventureswatersports.com advanced culinary degree from 1/2 lb. (226g)...... whole butter Cultured corals, a direct result of wild transplant efforts by Keys scien- Johnson & Wales University and One...... sprig of thyme tific research agencies, also actively spawn. Key Largo’s Coral Restoration 14 years’ experience as a chef in One...... fresh bay leaf Foundation founder Ken Nedimyer reported increasing numbers of elkhorn Two...... cloves of garlic (crushed) luxury hotels around Florida. He One...... medium shallot (rough cut) and staghorn corals at CRF’s offshore nurseries and outplanting sites on has been executive chef at Cheeca ½ cup (118ml)...... white wine reefs that spawned in 2014. Lodge & Spa since January 2012. ¼ cup (59ml)...... lemon juice Scientists hypothesize the coral spawn may be connected to seasonal “This dish really represents what ¼ cup (59ml)...... heavy cream lunar cycles and environmental cues such as water temperatures and tidal the Florida Keys have to offer in Salt and pepper to taste and 24-hour light cycles. terms of flavors — and the colors Full recipe, with cooking instructions, can be found at — Julie Botteri Resembling a dolphin, the Ocean Vue I

fla-keys.com/diving features a curved glass-bottom window. of the dish give it a tropical island INGREDIENTS cheeca.com/flkeys-lobster

8 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be 9 Follow the Florida Keys Overseas Paddling Trail

By Mary and Bill Burnham Photography by Rob O’Neal

magine the sense of fulfillment — and memories Park to follow the marked on the ocean side. you’ll savor and share for a lifetime — after paddling • Launch your kayak or SUP from Robbie’s Marina in Ifrom Key Largo to the southernmost point in the Islamorada, paddling past giant tarpon to visit historic continental on the Florida Keys Overseas Indian Key. Paddling Trail. Middle Keys The clear, shallow, Caribbean-blue waters elevate • Launch on the ocean side from either Curry Ham- Florida Keys paddling above any other in the continen- mock State Park or State Park, which has tal U.S. Beneath your kayak or stand-up paddleboard a marked canoe/kayak trail through shallow bays and lies an aquarium of colorful sponges and patch coral, mangroves. schooling fish, small sharks and rays. • From Marathon, have kayaks delivered to Sombrero From an easy two-hour float through quiet mangrove Beach and explore Sisters Creek’s mangroves. tunnels or passing under ’s century-old Lower Keys bridges, to the 10-day trip of a lifetime paddling from • Launch from to experience the Great Key Largo to Key West, the trail connects you to the White Heron National Wildlife Refuge, a mass of man- history, nature and culture of the Keys. grove islands unreachable by road. Here’s a sampling of some of our favorite paddling • From Lazy Dog Outfitters on , take a Mary and Bill Burnham are the authors of spots along the Florida Keys Overseas Paddling Trail: tour to explore the mangrove creeks around Key West “Florida Keys Paddling Atlas,” and lead multi- Upper Keys International Airport. day kayak trips ranging from three days to an annual 100-mile expedition from Key Largo to • In Key Largo, launch from Outfitters into • Head to Key West’s legendary Smathers Beach to tinyurl.com/keyspaddle Key West. Visit them at BurnhamGuides.com. Florida Bay or from John Pennekamp Coral Reef State rent a paddleboard or kayak and surf the ocean swells. 10 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be 11 ANDY NEWMAN ROB O’NEAL G ... Gho... Ghost Tours in Key West

ccording to paranormal expert David Sloan, Key West is one Aof the most haunted cities in the entire United States — and Sloan should know. He created the island’s first ghost tour in 1996, has authored volumes including “Ghosts of Key West,” and recently researched and launched a unique interactive ghost-hunting tour in Saving ‘Old 7’ historic Old Town. Dubbed Sloan’s Key West Ghost Hunt, the 90-minute nightly walking A $77 million restoration and maintenance program should preserve the Old , right, for the future. tour spotlights some of the island’s portion of the historic The span was built more than a emergency vehicles can [go] back most noteworthy and well-docu- Seven Mile Bridge, a Florida century ago, when Henry Flagler and forth from ,” he mented spirits: the famous resident AKeys icon, is to be saved constructed the Florida Keys said. “We also envision a light tram who refuses to leave the building for future generations thanks OverSea Railroad. taking tourists back and forth to the placed over his grave, the judge still to a $77 million restoration and In 1938 the bridge was converted island.” lurking around his own murder site David Sloan leads a ghost maintenance program that is to for use by automobiles and in Today, Pigeon Key, the minuscule and the children who play ghostly tour in Old Town Key West. continue for 30 years. 1982 the federal government built island beneath the old bridge that games in a secluded garden. Three government entities, a new span. “Old 7” was retired once housed about 400 workers But the tour, which incorporates intriguing, authentic excursion that vignettes from Key West’s history. including the Florida Department and became a fishing pier and who built Flagler’s railroad, is a some of Key West’s notoriously provides opportunities to glimpse Notable among them is Old Town of Transportation, Monroe County walking area, but the harsh marine historical and educational center. haunted locations, offers far more and better understand inhabitants Trolley’s Ghosts & Gravestones (Florida Keys) Commission environment has taken its toll. Visitors are transported there by than well-researched tales. Sloan of the supernatural realm. They en- Tour, featuring a costumed “ghost and City of Marathon are to “Almost every major component ferry because the old bridge was and his guides instruct participants courage guests to open their minds host” who recounts strange but cooperatively fund the effort to of the bridge needs to be repaired,” deemed unsafe for motorized in the use of state-of-the-art “ghost — and are sometimes as surprised true stories of tragedies, murders, restore and maintain a 2.2-mile Pego said, “[including] the vehicles. hunting” equipment to detect super- as anyone when the ghost-hunting burials, curses and other unnerving segment of the bridge between substructure, the superstructure and “Folks come from all over the natural activities. equipment picks up otherworldly events. The tour’s highlight is a stop Marathon and tiny Pigeon Key. hand railings in order to make it safe world to see this iconic structure,” “Haunted stories start to lose influences. at Fort East Martello Museum for a FDOT’s Gus Pego said some for pedestrians.” said Monroe County Administrator a lot over the years and become Sloan’s may be the only interac- visit with Robert the Doll, an eerily $30 million is to be expended Pego said the refurbished span will Roman Gastesi. “It’s utilized by mere legends,” Sloan said. “I tive ghost hunt in Key mischievous century-old toy that still during initial stages to shore up remain under state jurisdiction and more than 100,000 people every wanted to go back to the roots.” West, but several mystifies ghost hunters today. the existing structure. He said will be designed to support up to 17- year for walking and biking.” Rather than creating effects to other walking and trol- — Carol Shaughnessy he hopes construction can begin ton vehicles. ­ — Julie Botteri “spook” tour participants, Sloan and ley tours blend views keywestghosthunt.com Snorkelers explore coral formations in the sometime in 2016. “We’re going to design it so friendsofoldseven.com hisclear guides shallow take waters their off theguests Florida on Keys. an of haunted sites with ghostsandgravestones.com

12 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be 13 Lights, Camera, Action: Shot in the Keys Feed the Fishes at Keys hile enticing Florida Keys Destination America’s “Buying the Notable too is the “Bloodline” locales inspire tourism, they Beach” documented a local musi- original series that premiered in Aquarium Encounters Walso attract advertising, film cian’s pursuit of buying a private March 2015 on Netflix, an online and television industries that cast island for himself and his wife. streaming media provider. The the interconnected islands as char- “Platinum Weddings” was filmed 13-episode psychological thriller acters in their productions. on location in Islamorada to docu- starring Oscar-winner Sissy Spacek Key Largo’s Caribbean Club bar ment the million-dollar wedding of and Emmy-winner Kyle Chandler has appeared in movies — most fa- two New York investment bankers uses several Upper Keys locations mously in ’s 1947 clas- and their guests at Cheeca Lodge and follows the dramatic accounts sic, “Key Largo,” starring Humphrey and Spa. Other shows include of an Islamorada family. Bogart and . The MTV’s “The Real World” (2005-06) — Julie Botteri movie’s release created subsequent and “Burn Notice” (2013), among filmkeys.com tourist attention for the island. Key others. bogartfilmfestival.com Largo honors the man the American Film Institute named “America’s greatest male screen legend” with an annual Film Festival. Advertisements feature iconic Keys roads, bridges, beaches and crystalline waters. Jeep and Ford recently used Marathon and Key West as backdrops, and a Fiat 500 “swim” from Italy spot was partially shot in the Upper Keys. A 1996 Ralph Lauren Polo extravaganza featured Terra’s Key, a private Atlantic Ocean island with a four- bedroom home, tennis court, pool, dock, saltwater lagoon and beach. BOB CARE The Moorings Village, a luxury resort in Islamorada, is favored by fashion photographers, including Bruce Weber. isitors to the Florida Keys can enjoy a new im- technology, enabling individuals without prior scuba Before becoming California’s mersive experience, including feeding reef fish, experience to enjoy the in-water opportunity with super- governor, Arnold Schwarzenegger invertebrates, stingrays and even sharks. vision from dive instructors. starred in a 1994 film with Jamie V The Florida Keys Aquarium Encounters in Marathon A fortified Plexiglass window divides the coral reef Lee Curtis called “True Lies” that features a coral reef exhibit and a predatory fish habi- tank from a shark and other predatory fish section, was shot partially in the Keys. The tat housed in a 200,000-gallon interconnected saltwa- and participants can safely hand-feed these creatures madcap caper, about a spy whose ter aquarium. through small underwater feeding ports in the divider. personal and professional lives “It’s an interactive aquarium where you get the op- Other interactive facilities include shallow touch tanks collide, involved action sequences portunity to go in and encounter all different species that house starfish, conchs and horseshoe crabs, and of helicopter stunts, a warehouse we have in the Florida Keys,” said Ben Daughtry, the allow feeding of de-barbed stingrays and docile baby explosion and a bridge blast that facility’s managing owner. “And it’s really a unique learn- nurse sharks. required constructing a replica of ing opportunity where you get the ability to touch, feel Staff marine biologists provide educational instruc- the Middle Keys’ landmark Seven ... feed any of the species we have here.” tion and guidance. Mile Bridge on Sugarloaf Key. Feeding the marine life at the aquarium provides an “You swim around a bunch of fish,” said Doug Boring, Scenes from 2002’s “Red Drag- opportunity not allowed in open waters a recent guest of the facility. “It gives you a whole new on” starring Anthony Hopkins were Bogart Film Festival off the Keys. Fish feeding in the Florida perspective on the world that doesn’t get to be seen filmed in Islamorada at a resident Followed by teammatesKeys National Marine Sanctuary is pro- regularly.” doctor’s home. in kayaks, a swimmerhibited, because it disrupts their natural — Julie Botteri The Keys also have appeared in heads for shore during Actor Humphrey Bogart starred in the 1947 classic “Key Largo.” Today, Key behavior, sanctuary officials said. reality television shows. Recently, the inaugural Swim for Largo is the setting for the annual Humphrey Bogart Film Festival. Alligator Lighthouse.The encounter uses tethered diving floridakeysaquariumencounters.com

14 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be 15 “So we fished a lot of blue-collar perience for you, so you know what When and where to fish for popular Florida Keys game fish people,” he said. “Pretty much fishing is,” Pritt said. “He’s always Key West Fishing everybody could afford that trip.” so happy and energetic and outgo- Tournament Today, due to soaring costs of ing. fuel, insurance and other needs, “He’s going out there and wants Celebrating 50th Bradeen’s charter fee is $1,300 for to make sure everyone catches fish alf a century ago, Captain a full day and $900 for a half day. and has a good time,” he said. Gainey Maxwell conceived a And over the years, Bradeen’s That’s exactly what Bradeen’s Hway to encourage people to clientele has shifted to profession- goal has been for more than visit and fish Florida Keys waters als and their families seeking to 14,000 charter fishing trips. — and then return to do it again. experience the skipper’s entertain- “When they get off the boat, He called it the Key West Fishing ing style. whether we catch a lot of fish or Tournament. “I started fishing with Captain not, people say they had a wonder- Maxwell, now in his 90s, had an Skip when I was 7,” said Barron ful time,” said Bradeen, who has impressive set Pritt, now 27. “My family and I skippered for American presidents, of credentials came down here on vacation. rock stars and sports celebrities. even in 1965. “We just picked a boat and we But the popular captain wants to A Navy veteran went,” he said. “Now, we make it be remembered best for his com- who ran fish- a reunion to come down here and munity benevolence. He coached ing boats while always fish with Skip — nobody Little League Baseball for 28 years he served, he else.” and has served as master of cer- subsequently Bradeen’s style is to let his cus- emonies for countless fundraisers. skippered the Skip Bradeen tomers become fully involved in the “I want people to remember me Lookout III, a Gainey Maxwell angling experience. That’s one of not as the greatest fisherman per- 50-footer with two staterooms for Marks 50 Years the reasons Saltwater Sportsman haps, but how I gave back to the overnight trips. magazine named him one of 50 top community,” he said. He formatted the tournament to in the Fish Biz charterboat skippers. Will Bradeen ever retire? showcase the variety of species “The mate hooking a fish is not “That word is not in awaiting anglers in Keys waters. Text and Photography by Andy Newman allowed on this boat, no matter my vocabulary right “I started it to get people inter- aptain Skip Bradeen is in the in my pocket and was going to half day, Bradeen decided to stick what it is,” Bradeen said. now,” he said. “I’m on ested in coming back and catching cockpit of his beloved Blue Lauderdale to chase women for around for a little while to learn And his clients appreciate that. a journey, no retire- different fish,” Maxwell said. “We’d CChip Too, barking instructions a couple of weeks before going the charterboat business while he “He wants it to be a hands-on ex- ment in sight.” go fish over wrecks or in shallow to his angler. back to Long Island and meat- painted the captain’s motel. water just to change and get differ- “Now listen to me,” says Bradeen cutting school,” he said. “A buddy “So I called mom and told her ent kinds of fish.” in his New York–staccato dialect. of mine asked if he could come and I wasn’t going to be home until Today, 40 backcountry and off- “He might be eating it. All right, hit share expenses because he had Thanksgiving,” he said. “And then shore species are targeted during him.” a job offer as a deckhand on the when Thanksgiving came, I was the free-entry tournament’s seven- The angler reels down, raises the Tradewinds party boat in Islamo- doing even more charter work and month span. The 2015 event, the rod and a nice dolphin (mahi mahi) rada. told mom I wouldn’t be home until 50th, began in early April. leaps into the air off the Florida “I had never even heard of the Christmas.” With divisions for men, women, Keys. Florida Keys, but he talked me into Bradeen kept postponing his junior anglers ages 10 to 14 and Bradeen, 72, is in his 50th year in passing Lauderdale to bring him return to Long Island, and in the Pee Wees under 10 years old, the the Florida Keys charterboat fishing down,” Bradeen recalled. “I stopped spring of 1965 he called his tournament motivates newcomers business. The legendary skipper at the dock to drop him off, got out mother to deliver a final message. eager to fish, parents sharing their is best known for his enthusiastic of my car, walked around and this “‘Mom, you know my cold favorite sport with kids and veteran personality and quick wit. captain says to me, ‘You wanna go weather clothes?’” he said. “’Give anglers seeking a challenge. Bradeen’s love for the Keys fishing tomorrow?’” ’em away. I’m not coming home no The Key West Fishing Tournament began in September 1964 when Bradeen explained he didn’t have more.’” draws thousands of entries each he was 22 years old. He had just money to go fishing, but the char- In 1966 Bradeen purchased that year. Organizers encourage releas- finished a stint in the U.S. Air Force terboat skipper offered him the first boat he had worked on as a ing all game fish, and the event and was destined to become a New opportunity to work as a mate. mate for $3,200, including fish- upholds Maxwell’s goal of showcas- York butcher. “We went out the next day for a ing gear. He’s been a captain ever ing the Keys fishery and providing a In a Long Island, N.Y., bar he told half day,” Bradeen remembered. since. Skip Bradeen poses with clients Veronica Pereira and Barron Pritt and their catch. positive angling experience. some friends about plans to travel “Caught eight barracuda and went The charter fee back then for “The main thing,” said Maxwell, to Fort Lauderdale, Fla., for a vaca- back to the dock at noon. He gave the boat, called the Always, was “is to enjoy and have fun doing it.” tion in his new Chevrolet Impala me a $5 bill after I cleaned the boat $60 for a full day and $40 for half. What’s Biting and Where in the Florida Keys: — Carol Shaughnessy convertible. and the party gave me a $5 tip.” According to Bradeen, gas cost 13 fla-keys.com/fishing “I had a few jingles (dollars) Thrilled with making $10 in a cents per gallon. Charterboat skipperskeywestfishingtournament.com search for live bait off the Upper Keys.

16 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be 17 BOB CARE Charters Offer Birding Takes Flight in the Florida Keys Unique Excursions amous for extraordinary ey West’s all-accepting diver- underwater beauty, the Florida sity has helped make it an FKeys also are among the Kinternationally renowned gay world’s top destinations for year- and lesbian vacation spot — but no round bird watching where avian getaway is complete without spend- rarities abound. Dagny Johnson Key ing time in the turquoise waters Largo Hammock Botanical State that lap the island’s shores. Park, and Dry Visitors can choose from exclu- sive water excursions to experience Tortugas National Park are among snorkeling, fishing, sunset sailing, a dozen Keys native habitat stops dolphin watching and other adven- along the South Florida segment tures above, on or below the sea. of the 12-county, 116-site Great Guys can hop aboard the 37-pas- Florida Birding Trail. senger Blu Q for all-male snorkel Birders can view migrating trips that include relaxation, kayak- species such as warblers, white- ing and clothing-optional swimming and tanning on a secluded sandbar. crowned pigeons, year-round tidal Offerings also include a scenic har- waders and spring-nesting sea August Powers’ whimsical ‘musical instruments’ are ‘played’ each year at the bor tour and sunset party aboard Lower Keys Underwater Music Festival at Looe Key Reef. birds, terns, noddies, boobies the comfortable 42-foot catamaran. and some unique Keys residents Private customized trips for two Lower Keys Artist Sculpts ‘Fishy’ Creations — mangrove cuckoos, ospreys, to four passengers can be booked herons and roseate spoonbills. aboard the Q2 powerboat. f August Powers’ mother hadn’t elements of marine creatures and In the Lower Keys, the National The lesbian-owned Venus Char- wanted a fountain, one of the traditional instruments, resulting Lower Florida Keys’ most talented in whimsical hybrids like a “manta- Refuge’s 9,000-plus ters offers excursions on a 25-foot, I six-passenger powerboat. Trips can artists might never have discovered lin,” “sitarfish,” “clamborine” and acres of mangrove forests, fresh- Hammock State Park, offering be customized to include snorkel- his creative calling. But she did “trombonefish” that are “played” by water and salt-marsh wetlands, visitors the opportunity to count ing the backcountry or reefs, light- — so she sent her son to a metal the festival’s participating divers on pine rockland forests and tropical the thousands of buteos, ac- tackle fishing, observing dolphins, arts class at the Keys community the ocean floor. hardwood hammocks are an annual cipiters, falcons, raptors and swimming, beachcombing, explor- college, sparking a career that has — Carol Shaughnessy stopping point for thousands of mi- eagles that fly through the Keys. ing remote uninhabited islands or lasted some 25 years. gratory birds and a winter home to It’s generally agreed that more viewing a renowned Keys sunset. Sculpting that initial fountain and others inspired Powers to begin many North American bird species. peregrine falcons pass through Clothing-optional excursions are available as well. crafting different types of leaves to Florida Keys Hawkwatch spear- the Keys on their annual migration All Venus Charters are private to decorate them, grasshoppers and heads the southernmost migration than through any other location in ensure memorable experiences on other bugs, snails and birds, and count in the continental United the U.S. the water. ultimately fish and denizens of the States at the Middle Keys’ Curry —Julie Botteri bluqkeywest.com deep. venuscharters.com Working in bronze, steel and copper, fusing hammered pieces together with a torch, he sculpts creatures ranging from life-size to gigantic. His favorite subjects include marine life such as barracuda and flying fish, wahoo and prehistoric-looking crabs.

ANDY NEWMAN ANDY Powers is particularly well known for the unique “musical instruments” floridakeysbest.com/audubon he creates for the quirky Lower floridakeyshawkwatch.wordpress.com Keys Underwater Music Festival, an undersea broadcast each July

that encourages preservation of the SUSAN MILLER Florida Keys’ living coral reef. August Power with a few of his cre- An osprey returns to its nest in the The Blu Q catamaran sails off Key His skillful pieces combine ations displayed at a gallery. Florida Keys with nourishment. West, providing all-male excursions.

18 fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be Keys Traveler Keys Traveler fla-keys.com • fla-keys.co.uk • fla-keys.it • fla-keys.de • fla-keys.ie • fla-keys.fr • fla-keys.nl • fla-keys.be 19 9336

Shark Point Pa-hay-Okee Overlook To Florida Turnpike Card Sisal Pond Sound Ponce De Leon Bay to Miami Oyster Bay Mahogany Ocean Shark River Hammock Reef Club Island 1 Sweet Bay Pond 905 Florida Keys Traveling Tips Whitewater Bay National National Marine Sanctuary North West Cape Park Cape Dagney Johnson Sable Largo Hammock Crocodile Lake Botanical State Park National Wildlife Nine Mile Refuge Pond Hawk Channel to the Florida Keys Long Barnes Carysfort MILE Sound Point Mary Sound 110 Reef Cross Key 905 Alligator Trout Cove Seven Palm Lake Bay Davis Shell Key Key Largo Middle Cape Cove Canal Long Madeira Deer Key Middle Lake Bay Blackwater Bear Garfield Monroe Lake Sound Eagle Key North Dry Rocks Lake 9336 Bight Elbow Reef Madeira MILE Snake Bight Porpoise Rankin Santini Terrapin City of Washington Wreck Middle Cape Lake Point Bay 105 Ingraham Bight Bight Bay Shark Terrapin Boggy Key Dry Rocks Flamingo Crocodile Madeira Point Mosquito Point Largo “” Joe Kemp Umbrella Point Point Point Key Big Key Sound East Cape Bradley Key Rankin Key Canal Key Samphire Buttonwood Grecian East Cape Keys Sound Rocks Newport MILE John Pennekamp 100 Coral Reef State Park Spiegel Grove Benwood Wreck MILE Wreck 95 White Banks Cottrell Rodriguez Key East Key 1 Key Marquesas Tavernier Molasses Hospital Middle Keys Reef Key Key Barracuda MILE Key 90 Pickles Archer Mule Bibb Key Islamorada Key Bay Plantation Wreck

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National Wildlife Refuge MILE 60 Straits of Florida Gulf of Mexico Long Point Tennessee Key Reef Florida Keys Big Torch Marathon Big Pine MILE Key Airport 55 Hammock Great White Heron State Park East Turtle Deer Key Shoal Two Humps National Knight’s MILE National Wildlife Refuge Pigeon 50 Vaca Key Key Deer Key Key Key 1 Middle Old Seven Refuge MILE Torch No Name Mile Bridge West Turtle MILE 45 Shoal Sugarloaf Key Key Key 40 The Cudjoe Key MILE Seven Snake Little 30 Coffins MILE Mile Patch 20 MILE Torch Saddlebunch 25 Coupon MILE 1 Bridge 1 Key Bight 35 Bahia Delta Shoal Herman’s Summerland Ramrod Hole Alexander’s Wreck Keys MILE Key 15 Key Newfound Honda East Thunderbolt Harbor Keys Washerwoman Sombrero Wreck Lower Hawk Channel Samantha’s Atlantic Ocean Big Coppitt State Park Reef West Sugarloaf Key Key Key Flagler’s Barge MILE American Key West Golf 10 Newfound Harbor Seven Mile Bridge Wreck Fleming Dredger’s Course and CC Shoal Coral Heads Key Key 1 Artificial Reef MILE 5 Maryland U.S. Naval Geiger Big Pine Stock Shoals Adolphus MILE Air Station Key Looe Key Shoals 0 Island Busch Sr. Florida Keys Wreck Reef Preserve National Key West SOUTHERNMOST Intl. Airport POINT fla-keys.com Marine Sanctuary KEY WEST, FL Western Eastern Pelican Straits of Florida Sambos Shoal Eastern Sambos Dry Rocks Joe’s Tug Sand Rock Key Key Western Cayman Vandenberg Dry Rocks Salvor Wreck Wreck

The 125-mile-long Florida Keys island Driving Data to Keys/Key Largo Weather/Climate chain is linked to mainland Florida by U.S. FROM MILES KM HOURS Wherever you are right now, chances are Highway 1, the . Visitors Miami 50 80 1 the weather is better in the Florida Keys. can fly into Miami International Airport (MIA) Fort Myers 200 320 4 That’s true even on a summer day. The or Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood International Tampa 300 480 6 Orlando 280 450 5.25 hottest it’s ever been in Key West is 97° F Airport (FLL) and from there can reach (36° C), and that was in 1880. At the the Keys by airport shuttle bus or rental Distance from Miami peak of summer, the average high air car. Travelers can reach Key Largo, the REGION MILES KM MILE MARKER temperature is about 89° F (32° C). The gateway to the Keys, in about an hour from Key Largo 50 80 107-90 Keys are devoid of superhighways or Miami or an hour and 45 minutes from Fort Islamorada 76 122 89-66 Marathon 111 178 65-45 urban sprawl to absorb and radiate the Lauderdale. Lower Keys 128 205 45--4 sun’s heat. And the subtropical islands are Commercial Airlines Serving Key West 159 254 4-0 cooled by sea breezes. Key West International Airport In the winter, the Keys are typically the Via Bus warmest region in the continental U.S. American Airlines aa.com Bus/shuttle connections from MIA and There has never been a frost in Key West, Delta delta.com FLL to the Florida Keys allow traveling to the according to the U.S. Weather Service. Silver Airways silverairways.com Florida Keys without renting a car. Below are the average monthly air US Airways usairways.com Via Boat temperatures for the past 30 years, Driving Directions Ferry connections from Fort Myers or according to the Key West weather office. Temperatures in blue shades are Fahrenheit From Miami International Airport (MIA), Marco Island to Key West are offered and those in light red are Celsius. take LeJeune Road south to 836 West. via the Key West Express. Voyages take Take the Florida Turnpike south toward Key approximately 3.5 hours. West. Extensive details on getting to the Florida The Turnpike ends at U.S. 1 in Florida City. Keys & Key West are available at: Follow U.S. 1 south about 22 miles to fla-keys.com/gettinghere.cfm Key Largo and you are now in the Florida Keys. From Fort Lauderdale-Hollywood Inter- national Airport (FLL), exit the airport and follow the signs for 595 West. Take 595 to the Florida Turnpike and follow the signs Help and More Information for the Florida Keys. If you’re traveling in the Keys and From the north, take the Florida Turnpike need any help, call the toll-free Visitors’ south to just below Fort Lauderdale, where Assistance line at 1-800-771-KEYS. It’s Exit 4 joins the southern portion of the staffed 24 hours a day. To contact visitor Turnpike. The Turnpike ends at U.S. 1 in offices in the Keys, call 1-800-FLA-KEYS. Florida City. Follow U.S. 1 south into the The Keys websites at fla-keys.com and Florida Keys. fla-keys.com fla-keys.co.uk have a live chat feature with From Florida’s west coast, take I-75 fla-keys.co.uk visitor information specialists available (Alligator Alley) east to the Miami exit, and during regular U.S. weekday business south to the Turnpike Extension. hours to aid travelers in vacation planning.