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P38-39 Layout 1 lifestyle THURSDAY, JANUARY 21, 2016 FASHION Russell Crowe takes in Giorgio Armani fashion from front row Models wear creations for Dsquared2 men’s Fall-Winter 2016- 2017 collection, part of the Milan Fashion Week, unveiled in Milan, Italy. — AP/AFP photos wo human reactions to turbulent times emerged as fashion concepts during Milan Fashion Week, Twhich wrapped up its five-day run on Tuesday: cocooning and militarization. On one end of the spectrum, design- ers offered men myriad forms of com- fort for next fall and winter, including soft-cut jackets; enveloping cashmere, vicuna and alpaca knitwear; silken pajamas meant as street wear and the ubiquitous long scarf that in many col- Actor Russell Crowe poses for pho- lections substituted for a traditional tographers prior to the start of the tie. Falling under the cocooning/emo- Giorgio Armani men’s Fall-Winter tional comfort trend, there was also a 2016-2017 collection. — AP tendency toward returning to the past Canadian fashion designers Dean, left and Dan Caten acknowledge the applause of the audience after presenting with embroidered details literally their Dsquared2 men’s Fall-Winter 2016-2017 collection. flourishing on jackets and trousers, especially denim; homely plaids for jackets and lumberjack shirts; and the sort of brimmed hats that project paternal security. Rigid military looks led a counter- Model Tess Holliday navigates life, current, with battle-worn jackets, revamped uniforms and a plethora of double-breasted suits, albeit often softened with decorations and paired work in the mainstream with gently fitting trousers. In keeping, bags tended to be utilitarian and large, ith accolades for her People maga- grew her own hashtag rallying cry that lives on for Holliday. As a child, she moved nearly 50 shoes sturdy soled or boots. At the zine cover and the upcoming launch today: EffYourBeautyStandards. times before fifth grade at the behest of her more extroverted end of the fashion Wof her first clothing line, things are As the first model of her size and height to father. Her parents divorced and she hasn’t spectrum, designers made liberal use next level for Tess Holliday. The plus-size mod- be signed by a prominent agency, Milk spoken to her dad in three years. She was bul- of tinfoil silver fabric, creating a futuris- el and social media phenom who regularly Management in London, Holliday was thrust lied relentlessly as a kid because of her size tic feel to overcoats, trousers and shakes off haters has been reveling in the further into the role of body positive activist, and other issues, finally dropping out on the sportswear, as a sort of projection to mainstream since May, when she donned a this after several years of modeling to her cred- first day of 11th grade after receiving death possibility, escape from the now. But designer friend’s black lace bodysuit to pose it. The burgeoning body positive movement threats. overall the color palette was somber: for People’s 2015 body issue. “It’s been crazy,” has the usual growing pains and disagree- Holliday earned her GED and continued to dark, blue, black, deep green and the 30-year-old Holliday said after a recent ments from within and without, including pursue her dreams of modeling while working grays. Some highlights from the final panel chat on fat acceptance hosted by whether use of the word ‘fat’ is OK. As far as as a bank teller in Laurel, Mississippi, where day of shows Tuesday, with previews Refinery29.com. “My audience changed so Holliday is concerned, people should use the she moved with her mom after her mom was from Giorgio Armani and DSquared2. much because it’s a universal magazine. word or not use the word. shot twice in the head by a boyfriend and was Everyone of all ages and backgrounds reads it Acceptance means acceptance - at any size. left partially paralyzed. “I was bullied from fifth Kilt revival and all of a sudden I was in every grocery Among other adjustments for Holliday has grade on,” she said. “They started making fun The kilt has gotten a martial arts store.” come a new approach to handling haters. of me because my mom was in a wheelchair, makeover at DSquared2. The Canadian Behind the scenes, she found herself in flux, “Before I would have just gone after somebody then they started making fun of me because I designing twins Dean and Dan Caten shedding unsupportive loved ones and mak- if they said something and attacked me,” she was poor and then it evolved to my size.” creatively merged the traditional ing adjustments at home in Los Angeles. said. “I’m not going to change their minds by The Internet beckoned and she started Scotsman’s uniform with the deep- Holliday, whose real name is Ryann Maegen one comment so why even bother? Why waste posting pictures of herself, building a social pleated Japanese hakama, traditionally Hoven, moved in both her disabled mother my energy. It’s definitely been a learning curve. media following over the last six or so years worn over a kimono, for a cultural mash- and her Australian fiance. Meantime, her 10- My fiance’s had to snatch the phone out of my that led to modeling work and ultimately her up with a strong punk vibe. The kilt was year-old son is adjusting to mom’s higher pro- hand multiple times. He’s like, ‘What are you breakthrough. One thing she hadn’t anticipat- invariably worn over trousers, either file as well. “When we’re out in public people doing?’ He knows. I get this look on my face ed was the intense scrutiny of her health. “It knee- or ankle-length, and often was stop me. He rolls his eyes,” Holliday said. “He and he’s, like, ‘Are you commenting back to was so frustrating because I felt like I had more of a flourish, with just half or one- gets it but it’s still really weird for him. When people?’” worked so hard to get to this point and then quarter panel adding drama to a look. he tells his friends, ‘My mom’s a model,’ they She fights back in other ways. “When I’m people were taking away what I did and mak- Long and black, the hybrid skirt kind of pick on him a little.” Why? Because at 5- having a bad day, that’s when I usually take ing it about my health and my size. And they was elegant with a black blazer and foot-5 and size 22, Holliday doesn’t fit the naked photos and post them online, which still do,” she said. “I feel like it’s important to turtleneck, just the thing for a Ninja on ultra-thin mold. Fat and proud, covered in col- hasn’t happened often because my mom talk about my health, which is fine, and my size a night out. orful tattoos - each with its own story of love moved in with us and she doesn’t really appre- because there are young girls who see some- A sportier denim model was worn and empowerment - that’s just fine with her. ciate that, that much. I don’t know why,” one like me and can validate their own exis- under a parka, while the short black Holliday laughed, eyes sparkling under a long tence.” mainstay proved versatile, equally Media attention main of auburn red hair. But it HAS happened What’s in store for Holliday? There’s her matched with a kimono top, denim “I feel like I’m learning who I am again and Holliday is unapologetic. A no-clothes-at- clothing line that launches in March, though shirt or bomber jacket. because of the new media attention,” Holliday all booty shot with a graphic bubble reading she was tightlipped ahead of the formal To underline the cultural crossover, said. “To people who had never heard the “oops” covering one exposed nipple had her announcement about where it will sell. Her the designers also gave it a run in a words ‘body positive,’ or who had never showing off all her assets, including some of goal, she offered, was to provide plus-size Manga print as well as traditional tar- shopped at a plus-size clothing store and the many arm tattoos portraying women she women clothes they could live in at a reason- tan, which was worn over matching weren’t plus-size themselves, it’s been an admires. There’s Divine, Dolly Parton, Miss In this Jan 7, 2016 photo provided by able price without being beholden to trousers. Take away the kilt, and the adjustment for them, too.” She’s learned she Piggy and Mae West, “all strong outspoken Refinery29, plus size model Tess Holliday shapewear. “Everything is under $100 and it looks were pure punk. Leather jackets can’t educate all, including those who insist women like myself.” poses for a photo in New York. — AP starts at $30,” Holliday said. “It’s mostly casual. I had fluorescent studs, worn with that her size compromises her health. And cover, her H&M modeling campaign and news just know it’s what I wanted to wear and saw patched baggy jeans. An oversized there are the usual trolls she’s been dealing Death threats of her signing with Milk. “Seems like the booty lacking in the industry. All I want is to feel parka had a spaceman’s silver lining. with for years on Instagram and elsewhere Holliday said nude pic was her most popu- wins,” she joked in the comments, using her good and really own my body and that’s what I Hiking boots were the favorite online, including Tumblr, the place where she lar photo on Instagram, beating out her People homegrown hashtag.
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