METTLER TOLEDO competence in cosmetics laboratories

Understanding our customers’ needs and requirements and providing amazing solutions is part of METTLER TOLEDO’s corporate vision. For many years the cosmetics industry has relied on the competence and knowledge of our sales and support organization. Every day, thousands of laboratories and manufacturing sites use our pH meters, titrators, thermal analyzers, densitymeters, refractometers and balances.

Your competent partner Wide product range METTLER TOLEDO has a long and Do you need … successful history of providing solutions and a precision balance to weigh in services to cosmetics companies. formulations? a pH meter to determine the skin Fulfil your needs To continue to be a competent partner tolerance? METTLER TOLEDO knows that each in an increasingly regulated environment a Karl Fischer titrator to determine wa- industry has its own very particular require- with escalating time and money pressures, ter content? ments. Our market segmentation initiative we have launched a cosmetics segment a refractometer to identify raw materi- made us understand your industry even bet- initiative. The mission is to train our orga- als? ter. This competence allows us to specifi- nization to fully understand our cosmetics cally address your needs. We want to make industry customers’ applications and re- METTLER TOLEDO is the only supplier sure that sales consultants will provide you quirements. offering such a wide range of products: pre- with valuable product information and cision and analytical balances, pH meters, prompt after sales service tailored to your METTLER TOLEDO has longstanding titrators, refracto- and densitymeters and needs. relationships with many global players in instruments for melting point or thermal Our sales and service consultants are the industriy, such as L’Oréal, Estée Lauder, analysis. eager to demonstrate how METTLER Shiseido and Procter & Gamble. This has TOLEDO fulfils the requirements of the cos- helped us to understand requirements spe- metics industry. cific to the cosmetics industry. Contents Lever Fabergé discovers the Cosmetics beauty of upgrading News 1

METTLER TOLEDO lab equipment competence in cosmetic laboratories Greatly improved process control, faster laboratory Lever Fabergé discovers throughput and improved test repeatability are just the beauty of upgrading three of the benefits discovered by Lever Faberge’s lab equipment research facility after the upgrade of two key pieces Productivity is the key of equipment. to success – XP precision balance! The personal products manufacturer, product stability and is important as some A new generation of which is part of the Unilever group, has raw materials, in particular preservatives, weighing – installed a METTLER TOLEDO refractome- are most effective within a very specific pH XS analytical balance! ter and a pH meter for use in the busy labo- range. Mibelle Cosmetics – ratory at its Leeds production plant. pH meters monitor skin We also use pH testing for quality assur- friendly pH The RE40 refractometer is used ini- ance to determine whether there has been tially in the development of new products to any change in a product during its shelf life. Perfect moisture levels – the specification for perfumes going into It is also important that we can achieve re- KF titration of creams, deodorants. It is also used as part of the peatability of results, which can be difficult lotions and lipsticks quality control process for leading brands since some of the materials we test are low We share our knowledge with the refractive index being used to en- in ionic strength.” sure that test samples comply with the Imprint specification. Laboratory manager Jayne Taylor-Hirst says, “We do a lot of work Publisher screening perfumes to ensure that they Mettler Toledo GmbH conform to our quality standards. Laboratory & Weighing Manufacturers often quote Refractive Technologies Index, a key quality parameter at either Im Langacher CH-8606 Greifensee 20ºC or 25ºC, so it is important to us that we Switzerland can change from one temperature to another quickly and easily, which the RE40 Production enables us to do.” Laboratory Marketing Support Switzerland The MP230 pH meter is used in tests of Technical Articles Lever Fabergé’s range of shampoos, condi- Mettler Toledo GmbH tioners and skin creams, including the Or- – Laboratory & Weighing ganics and Ponds brands. In such products, Technologies it is critical that the correct pH levels are – Analytical Instruments maintained to ensure that the product is neither too acid nor too alkali. Taylor-Hirst comments, “We carry out pH testing on raw materials and as a quality control measure Subject to technical changes. © 2004 Mettler-Toledo GmbH on finished products to ensure a consistent The InLab®420 seen here with the MP230 pH meter Printed in Switzerland. pH is maintained. This helps to ensure is ideal for use with organic samples

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CosmeticsNews 1 METTLER TOLEDO ers the pHMETER REFRACTOMETRY

Placing a sample on the refractometer cell

Fast, precise and easy to use Built-in thermostat junction to create the optimum contact be- In both cases, the instruments have re- One of a range of digital refractome- tween reference electrolyte and the mea- placed older equipment, described as “very ters, the RE40 can be used to measure re- suring solution. The choice of electrolyte is operator dependent”. Taylor-Hirst describes fractive index and other related values, also crucial in these situations. With these the benefits that have resulted from the new such as BRIXº, HFCS and concentration. factors in mind the InLab 420 electrode with equipment, “Our previous equipment re- The equipment’s high-resolution optical Lithium Chloride electrolyte was chosen. quired much more input from the labora- sensor produces precise results quickly by This, combined with the MP230, provides tory technicians, both in terms of carrying measuring the total reflection of a light accuracy, convenience and reliability. It of- out the tests and in interpreting the results”. beam emitted by a special LED light source fers GLP-compliant testing, automatic cali- after hitting the sample. The total reflection bration, buffer prompting display, and tem- “The new instruments offer higher is converted into a refractive index, BRIX perature compensation. A function of the degrees of precision, consistency HFCS or user-defined concentrations. A key MP230 is automatic end point sensing and reliability as well as being feature of the RE40 is its built-in Peltier (AEP), designed to automate a process nor- faster and much easier to oper- thermostat, which controls the temperature mally carried out by an experienced opera- ate.” without the need for a waterbath. tor. Sophisticated algorithms monitor the rate of change of signal from the electrode “For example, when we are looking at Samples take just a few seconds to ana- and freeze the displayed value when the the pH of new formulations, with the MP230, lyze, and measurement is always at the reading is stable. The AEP functions over a we can ensure that the correct electrode is temperature determined by the operator, wide range of temperature and pH condi- being used (in whatever matrix we are independent of the sample and ambient tions in a wide variety of sample types. As a measuring) and plot the stability curve temperatures. Once the temperature is set, result the speed and accuracy with which within two to three minutes. Also pH deter- the rest of the process can be automated readings can be taken is greatly increased mination can be measured to three decimal with a sampling unit and a sample changer. and, at the same time, risks of human error places, whereas we could only previously are reduced. measure it to two. In manpower terms, ours GLP compliant pH meter is a relatively small laboratory, but we do The pH meter chosen by Lever Faberge X www.mt.com/phlab have a large turnover of samples.” is the MP230, a GLP research pH/mV°C X www.mt.com/refractometry meter. Designed for the most demanding “The new equipment gives us situations in research and development or more precise control over the pro- quality control laboratories, the choice of cesses we carry out and it has electrode was also carefully considered. As speeded up our work consider- the samples being tested are of an organic ably, giving us the capability of nature the electrode should have a large handling more tests in a shorter timescale.”

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CosmeticsNews 1 METTLER TOLEDO Productivity is the key to success – XP precision balance!

The precision balance is one of the most essential instruments within the cosmetics industry: Accurate powder, liquid and gel weighing is a crucial activity in the development of new formulations. The new XP precision balance offers several highly beneficial features to the cos- metics laboratories: The MonoBlocHighSpeed technology, featured in the weighing cell, will increase your formulation efficiency. Its simple design allows for fast and effective cleaning. The undeniable robustness and reliability of METTLER TOLEDO products, together with IP54 protection, makes the XP your life long partner.

Weighing time is money terminal, the XP precision balance is fast And much more … Whether weighing in raw materials into and easy to clean. SmartScreen, the colour display with a formulation or analyzing product specifi- touch screen operation greatly improves cations - productivity is key for your com- Robust and reliable balance operation. Up to eight operators can pany. This also applies to your work with the No matter where your balance is used, save their individual settings, including balance which must be fast and reliable. the rugged construction of the XP can be colour profiles, and activate these effort- The Excellence Plus XP provides outstand- relied upon to perform. It has uncompro- lessly at the touch of a fingertip. Using your ing measurement performance and process mising protection against dust and water “own” balance guarantees that results are safety for ultimate productivity. which, in use, is equivalent to IP54. always reliable as it eliminates errors, thus reducing misunderstandings. The MonoBlocHighSpeed weighing cell re- The overload protection of the duces stabilization times, weighing results MonoBlocHighSpeed ensures that excessively This and many more features make the have a high repeatability, enabling your for- heavy loads do not damage the XP. XP a true innovation in the world of weigh- mulation results to be reliable and secure. ing. Contact METTLER TOLEDO for a full product brochure and further details. proFACT adjusts the balance automati- cally for extremely precise and repeatable X www.mt.com/xp results, thereby facilitating compliance with FDA or GLP regulations. The XP en- ables you to work far faster and more accu- rately.

A clean solution Hygiene is a must for cosmetics laboratories as products are de- signed for human use. Thanks to the straightforward design of the XP with large, flat surfaces and removable

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CosmeticsNews 1 METTLER TOLEDO A new generation of weighing – XS analytical balance!

Weighing of precious raw materials, such as colorants, perfume oils, active ingredients and preservatives, are core R&D, Analytics and Quality Assurance activities within laboratories of cosmetics companies. The new XS analytical balance has a pace-setting new weighing technology: SmartGrid, the innovative grid weighing pan, has been specifically designed to make weighing more efficient and cleaning easier than ever. ErgoClips, the brilliant accessories for SmartGrid, allow safe and professional sample handling.

XS presents SmartGrid The hanging weighing pan and draft shield With the new XS analytical balance, of the XS, which can be completely dis- METTLER TOLEDO has brought a breath of mantled, make cleaning the balance far fresh air to the world of weighing. The new easier. grid weighing pan, with its unique fixing, ErgoClips are a novel type of accessory, which securely snap into the weighing pan and allow weighing into test tubes, round bottom flasks or weighing boats. They guar- antee safe handling and weighing of all sub- stances, be these powders, liquids or gels.

RS-P42 printer Handwritten entries in laboratory jour- offers practically no resistance to air nal notebooks are a source of transcription turbulence in the weighing cham- errors and also time consuming. Records ber. The result – reduced stabiliza- on METTLER TOLEDO standard and tion times and more accurate results. adhesive printer paper help to avoid such mistakes. The printouts can be archived and Further advantages of SmartGrid provide instant proof of the original weigh- include a weighing pan fixed on the rear of The XS range ing data. the weighing chamber creating a com- Six different balance models are avail- pletely clear area underneath without awk- able with a readability of 0.1mg and 0.01mg The RS-P42 printer provides printouts of ward to clean cavities. If a product is spilled from 80g to 220g weighing results, regular adjustments and inside the weighing chamber, it simply falls also individual settings and application through the grid and onto the tray under- results. neath where it can be cleaned up easily. X www.mt.com/xs

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CosmeticsNews 1 METTLER TOLEDO Mibelle Cosmetics – pH meterspH monitor skin friendly pH

The pH of human skin falls between 5.5 to 6.0. As many bacteria can survive only in a narrow pH range near neutral, this acidic pH helps protect the skin by discouraging the propagation of harmful bacteria from settling onto it. Since the development of soaps and cleaning solutions with non-irritant properties, pH has become a chemical value with high public visibility and awareness. METTLER TOLEDO SevenEasy assures the pH balance of products at “Mibelle” Cosmetics.

pH in the cosmetics industry ing to Germany, UK and North American ● The InLab®413/414/415/416/418/419 Together with refractive index, density markets. This may impose new challenges combination electrodes with PEEK shaft and the concentration of active ingredients, due to the lack of internationally binding prevent diaphragm clogging due to their pH is one of the most important parameters regulations. polymer electrolyte based reference in the quality control of cosmetic produc- system and open junctions. tion. pH provides revealing insights into the MT pH meters at Mibelle ● The InLab®432 is a robust pH-combina- correct concentration of substances such as Mibelle recently bought several tion electrode. Its triple diaphragm is re- benzoic acid (preservative), tensides or SevenEasy instruments for research and sponsible for the electrode’s highly re- gelling agents. Whereas the variety of in- quality control purposes. How does duced sensitivity to contamination. gredients used in cosmetic products is ex- SevenEasy match the needs of the cosmetic tremely broad, the pH range is rather industry? Firstly, the 3-point-calibration fits narrow, usually varying between pH 4.5 to your specific needs perfectly. Secondly, 7.0. In very rare cases this can fall to below because of its compact size, large display 4.5 and, in the case of depilation creams, and ease-of-use. For future regulatory re- the grade acidity is around pH 11. This does quirements concerning data capturing, not require high demands from instru- SevenEasy meters are equipped with an ments and electrodes. The most challeng- RS232 interface. Finally, the SevenMulti ing area for pH measurement is the con- advanced pH meter allows automation of tamination of the electrode by viscous pastes pH-and ion measurement with the sample that are hard to remove and may clog the changer Rondolino, an option which is sensor’s diaphragm. particularly valuable for busy quality con- trol laboratories. Cosmetics laboratories Mibelle Cosmetics choose METTLER TOLEDO because of our The SevenMulti advanced pH meter with the samle changer Rondolino Mibelle Cosmetics AG was founded in experience in electrode manufacturing. 1961 as a subsidiary company to the largest Our portfolio includes several electrodes The Seven pH meter, in combination retail company in Switzerland. Following with appropriate features for measurements with the variety of specific InLab electrodes, initial success with soaps, toothpaste and in high viscosity cosmetic products: covers an extensive range of pH applica- other bath product lines, Mibelle enlarged ● The InLab®420, a combination pH / tions in cosmetic laboratories. its product portfolio continuously. This now temperature sensor enables efficient covers a wide range of cosmetic products for removal of contamination by simply the care, protection and cleansing of skin, opening the sleeve diaphragm which is hair and teeth. Mibelle is currently expand- easily cleaned with a paper towel.

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CosmeticsNews 1 METTLER TOLEDO Perfect moisture levels – KF-titration of creams, lotions and lipsticks

Water determination in the cosmetics industry is important and most effectively carried out with the METTLER TOLEDO Karl Fischer titration system DL38. This modern titration system allows easy operation by production operatives and incorporates built in methods for cosmetics samples such as creams and lotions. The DL 38 supports compliance requirements from FDA or other related bodies and facilitates LIMS or ERP integration.

Cosmetics products are often water- checking limits or suggesting calibration at the requirements of the most stringent based emulsions. Water content is therefore the appropriate interval. The simple opera- regulations. Thanks to LabX titration soft- critical, as too much water leads to bacte- tion, through a graphic display, allows non- ware, anxieties about compliance are now rial growth or an unacceptable tactile expe- specialised staff operation thus making completely eliminated. rience for consumers. Too little water may production line analysis possible by factory affect the homogeneity of the cosmetic staff. Many companies want to integrate their product and is undesirable from a cost per- laboratory into their ERP (Enterprise Re- spective. Hence, water content determina- Simple sample preparation source Planning) system. This can be labo- tions are commonplace in the cosmetics Samples such as cream or lipstick are rious and costly. System integration of the industry. Development laboratories exam- challenging to introduce to the sample ves- DL38 system is facilitated by LabX titration ine new formulae or test long-term stability sel and may not release their water without software, the client/server approach to da- and quality control operations check raw powerful solvents. The DL38 system offers tabase and a special program called material water content and each final solutions to both these problems: the LabX CONNECT supporting product. ViscoSpoonTM is the perfect accessory for easy LIMS integra- viscous samples as it reduces ambient tion. Karl Fischer with DL 38 moisture contamination. A high speed Karl Fischer titration has been estab- homogeniser, controlled by the titrator, Karl Fischer lished as the method of choice for water eliminates the need for chloroform or other titration is commonly determinations in the cosmetics industry toxic solvents and reduces analysis time by used in the cosmetics in- because it is fast, accurate and selective for a factor of two. dustry for water determina- water and covers a wide measuring range. tions. The METTLER TOLEDO The METTLER TOLEDO DL38 volumetric Regulations and systems DL38 is well suited for this task as Karl Fischer titration system supports users integration it is simple to operate, allows handling of in today’s demanding environment and ad- Cosmetics with pharmaceutical ingre- specific cosmetics samples, is compliant Problems with sticky dresses issues specific to the cosmetics in- dients are subject to regulatory approval. with relevant regulations such as FDA samples are a thing of the past dustry, such as sample characteristics and Quality systems need to be in place and the 21CFR-11 or GLP and allows easy integra- preparation, the regulatory environment instrument systems used for quality control tion into ERP and LIMS systems. and modern data handling requirements of must be qualified at regular intervals. Fur- LIMS or ERP systems. thermore, electronic data is subject to X www.mt.com/titration 21CFR-11 part 11, which regulates han- The DL38 facilitates operation through dling, control and modification of electronic its unique user guidance. The instrument records. The DL38 system is used through- can be programmed to support the user by out the pharmaceutical industry and meets

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CosmeticsNews 1 METTLER TOLEDO We share our knowledge

Learn from what we have learned. Our knowledge and experience are at your disposal-in print, on-line and also, increasingly, on CD-ROM. Each document can be used as a reference book, glossary, or guide to inform you of the lates methods for a wide variety of applications.

Methods for cosmetics industry Titration methods: – Water determination in body lotion with internal extraction – Iodine value of cosmetic fats according to Wijs – Acid number of cosmetic creams www.mt.com/titration – Potentiometric surfactant determination in shampoo Thermal analysis methods: – Cloud point detremination of oleic acid samples – Dropping point determination of lipstick www.mt.com/ta – Quality control of vaseline Moisture Analyzer Methods: – Moisture analysis of shampoo – Moisture analysis hair gel www.mt.com/moisture – Moisture analysis bubble bath

Product literature

The new Excellence XS analytical balance from METTLER TOLEDO. 1 Excellence XS analytical balance Innovative ergonomics, utmost efficiency – That’s the weigh! 2 Excellence Plus XP precision balance

“Weighing on air?” “That’s right!” 12 Technical documents 3 Weighing the right way 4 Guide to pH measurement 5 Methods of moisture content determination 6 Karl Fischer methods at a glance

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Mettler-Toledo GmbH Mettler-Toledo GmbH Laboratory & Weighing Technologies Analytical Instruments Im Langacher Sonnenbergstrasse 74 CH-8606 Greifensee CH-8603 Schwerzenbach Switzerland Switzerland

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CosmeticsNews 1