Wax Based Emulsions for Use in Lipstick Application
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Wax Based Emulsions For Use In Lipstick Application By Akash Beri A thesis submitted to The University of Birmingham for the degree of DOCTOR OF ENGINEERING School of Chemical Engineering College of Physical and Engineering Sciences The University of Birmingham February 2015 University of Birmingham Research Archive e-theses repository This unpublished thesis/dissertation is copyright of the author and/or third parties. The intellectual property rights of the author or third parties in respect of this work are as defined by The Copyright Designs and Patents Act 1988 or as modified by any successor legislation. Any use made of information contained in this thesis/dissertation must be in accordance with that legislation and must be properly acknowledged. Further distribution or reproduction in any format is prohibited without the permission of the copyright holder. Abstract Water-in-oil emulsions have the potential to eradicate drying of the lips caused by constant lipstick application by improving moisturising properties and delivering hydrophilic molecules to the lips. To conduct this research, a food microstructure approach was utilisied developing emulsion structures’ using either a batch or continuous process and monitoring the affect these structures had on physical and material properties. The lubricating properties of emulsions structures were then compared to a trained sensory panel. Finally the release behaviour of a moisturising agent was investigated. It was shown that the ingredients used to produce the microstructure are pivotal in indicating the melting profile, droplet size and material properties of the final structure. Specifically, when an aqueous phase is incorporated within a hard shell the elastic modulus increases as the aqueous phase become part of the wax network. The effect of lubrication showed that friction coefficient of a solid emulsion could be related to how smooth a lipstick would be perceived based on the Kokani Model. Finally, it was shown that the release of a moisturising agent is governed by the droplet size and the amount of destruction caused to the wax network. I Acknowledgements Firstly I would like to thank my academic supervisor Prof. Ian Norton for all his help and guidance throughout the EngD scheme, in particular the constant motivation he provided. I would also like to thank Dr Richard Greenwood for his constant encouragement, especially during the write up stage. Within Alliance Boots, I would like to thank both Sonja Clarke and William O’Leary for their devotion to this project, constant support and useful discussion in developing a cosmetic product. I would also like to thank Angela Morgan and the sensory team for their support in running a trained sensory panel and conducting the sensory analysis for this thesis. Within the University of Birmingham, I would like to thank the entire Microstructure group for their constant guidance and support, in particular Dr Roman Pichot, Dr Jennifer Norton, Dr Thomas Mills and Dr Ben Le Reverend. I would also like to thank Dr Richard Watson for proof reading my thesis and for helpful suggestions. Finally I would like to thank all the support staff, particularly John Hooper, Lynn Draper, Kathleen Haynes and Bob Sharp. My gratitude goes to the EPSRC for this funding opportunity which has allowed this work to be conducted. I would like to thank all my friends from the University of Birmingham for all the great memories that we have generated in our times together. Last but not least, I would thank my wonderful family, Ashok, Sumita, Sanjeev, Chaya and Joanne Beri for all their encouragement throughout the EngD. Without your support this would not have been possible. II Table of Contents Abstract .............................................................................................................................. I Acknowledgements ........................................................................................................... I Table of Contents ........................................................................................................... III List of Figures ................................................................................................................ VII List of Tables ................................................................................................................. XX Nomenclature............................................................................................................. XXIII Chapter 1. Introduction ................................................................................................ 1 1.1 Background ........................................................................................................ 2 1.2 Objectives .......................................................................................................... 4 1.3 Relevance to Alliance Boots .............................................................................. 5 1.4 Thesis Layout ..................................................................................................... 6 Chapter 2. Literature Review ....................................................................................... 8 2.1 Introduction ........................................................................................................ 9 2.2 Emulsions ........................................................................................................... 9 2.2.1 Emulsification ............................................................................................. 9 2.3 Emulsion Instability ......................................................................................... 11 2.3.1 Creaming/Sedimentation .......................................................................... 12 2.3.2 Flocculation .............................................................................................. 13 2.3.3 Ostwald Ripening ..................................................................................... 14 2.3.4 Coalescence .............................................................................................. 15 2.4 Emulsion Stabilisation ..................................................................................... 19 2.4.1 Electrostatic Stabilisation ......................................................................... 19 2.4.2 Polymeric Stabilisation ............................................................................. 20 2.4.3 Fat Particles in Emulsion Stability ........................................................... 22 2.4.4 Emulsifiers ................................................................................................ 23 2.5 Crystal Networks ............................................................................................. 25 2.5.1 Lipid Composition .................................................................................... 25 2.5.2 Processing Conditions .............................................................................. 27 2.5.3 Crystal Structures ..................................................................................... 28 2.5.4 Links between Crystal Network and Macroscopic Properties ................. 31 2.6 Material Properties ........................................................................................... 33 2.6.1 Hooke’s law .............................................................................................. 33 III 2.6.2 Stress-strain Relationships ........................................................................ 33 2.7 Tribology ......................................................................................................... 39 2.7.1 Analysing Friction .................................................................................... 40 2.7.2 Sensory Perception and Tribology ........................................................... 41 2.8 Controlled Release from Colloidal Structures ................................................. 43 2.8.1 Release via Diffusion................................................................................ 43 2.8.2 Release in Application .............................................................................. 45 Chapter 3. Materials and Methodology ...................................................................... 46 3.1 Introduction ...................................................................................................... 47 3.2 Materials .......................................................................................................... 47 3.2.1 Waxes and Emulsifiers ............................................................................. 47 3.2.2 Tribometer Surfaces ................................................................................. 47 3.3 Sample Formation ............................................................................................ 48 3.3.1 Wax/Oil Blends ........................................................................................ 48 3.3.2 Emulsions ................................................................................................. 48 3.3.3 Tribology Set-Up ...................................................................................... 52 3.3.4 Release Experiments (Chapter 7) ............................................................. 53 3.4 Analytical Method ........................................................................................... 59 3.4.1 DSC (Chapter 4) ......................................................................................