Behind the Scenes
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 277 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. their knowledge; random strangers who share their WRITER THANKS time and countless kindnesses. Huge thanks to all. Oliver Berry And, again, to James Smart for the gig, Lonely Plan- As always, huge thanks to the many people who et’s behind-the-scenes teams, and fellow authors and helped out with advice, suggestions and tips for adventurers for humour, wisdom and travellers’ tales. new material, with an extra special shout out for Justin Foulkes, Sarah Bennett, Mark Sharham, Nigel Mortimer, Laura Hicks, Heidi Fitzpatrick and Another ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Place. Extra thanks to James Smart for captaining Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson the ship, to Susie Berry for apple tree shopping and BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the much-needed lunches, and to Rosabella for many Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and happy days exploring Kernow with me. Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. Belinda Dixon Cover photograph: Salcombe, South Devon, Justin Researching a place is a real joint effort. It’s the Foulkes/4Corners © result of B&B, bar and hotel staff who share their recommendations; tourist office workers who share Destination Editor James Assisting Cartographer THIS BOOK Smart Hunor Csutoros This 4th edition of Lonely Product Editors Kate Kiely, Assisting Book Designer Planet’s Devon & Cornwall Genna Patterson Jessica Rose guidebook was researched and Senior Cartographer Mark Cover Researcher Naomi written by Oliver Berry and Be- Griffiths Parker linda Dixon. Oliver and Belinda Book Designer Wibowo Rusli Thanks to Carolyn Boicos, also wrote the previous two Janet Aus- Kate Chapman, Catherine Din, editions. This guidebook was Assisting Editors tin, Janice Bird, Andrea Dob- Jeff Jacobs, Hannah Cartmel, produced by the following: bin, Rosie Nicholson, Susan Craig Kilburn, Julie Woods Paterson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 278 Index A Lanyon Quoit 214 Braunton Burrows 137 Berry Pomeroy 83 abbeys Mên-an-tol 214 Bryher 235 Betjeman, Sir John 258 Buckland Abbey 112, 163, Pipers, The 149 Bude 186 bicycle travel, see cycling 225, 163, 225 Trethevy Quoit 149 Chapel Porth 201, 201 273 Tresco Abbey Garden 163, Troytown Maze 236 Constantine Bay 189 Bigbury-on-Sea 96-7 233, 163 architecture 242-3 Cornwall 194 Bill Douglas Cinema Museum 52 accommodation 30-1, 266-8, Totnes 80 Devon 90-1 birdwatching 263 see also individual area codes 17, 271 Falmouth 156 locations Exmoor Owl & Hawk Areas of Outstanding Fowey 173-4 activities 19, 21-3, 35-9, Centre 132 Natural Beauty Godrevy 213-14 114-15, see also 262 Hayle Estuary 212 individual activities Great Bay 237 Arlington Court 137 Lizard, the 223 alternative 39 Gwithian 213-14 art courses 256 Mullion 228 adventure sports 38 Kynance Cove 228 Penwith 223 Northam Burrows 137 Bodmin Moor 148 Land’s End 215-16 Arthur, King 149, 188 St Mary’s 232 Falmouth 157 Looe 176 arts 256-60, see also Topsham 60 Mevagissey 173 Flushing 164 individual arts Blackmore, Richard 258 Newquay 196-7, Totnes 80 arts centres 115 Blackpool Sands 84, 90, 90 Northam Burrows 137 air travel 272, 273 Exeter Phoenix 57 Blue Hills Tin Stream 202 Padstow 190-1 Alice in Wonderland 178 Flavel (Dartmouth) 86 Blue Reef Aquarium 198 Poldhu Cove 228 amusement parks Plymouth Arts Centre 108 Boardmasters 22, 199 Polzeath 193 Paignton Pier 71-2 arts festivals 257 boat travel 273, 274 Porth Joke 200 Anglo-Saxon rule 243-4 Ashburton 116-17 boat trips Porthmeor Beach 210 animal sanctuaries Asparagus Island 229 Bryher 235 Porthminster Beach 212, Donkey Sanctuary 63 Atlantic Highway 186-9 Cornwall 194 194-5 animals 263-4, see also ATMs 270 Dartmouth 84, 85 individual species Rame Peninsula 177-8 Exmouth 62, 62-3 Anstey’s Cove 73 Roseland peninsula Falmouth 157 Antony House 178 B 169, 170 Grand Western Canal 65 AONBs 162 Babbacombe Model Village Rosemoor 134, 91 Helford River 165 70-1 aquariums safety 269 Ilfracombe 135 Bakelite Museum 131 Blue Reef Aquarium 198 Salcombe 92 Looe 176 B&Bs 30-1 Ilfracombe Aquarium 135 Slapton Sands 87 Padstow 191 Bantham 90, 95, National Marine 90-1 St Ives 210-11 Plymouth 106 Barbara Hepworth Museum Aquarium 104 St Mary’s 231-2 Salcombe 93-4 210 archaeological sites 224-5 Torquay 73 St Agnes 236 Barbican 104 Bant’s Carn 232 Trebarwith Strand 188 St Ives 212 Barnstaple 137-8 Cheesewring 149 Trevaunance Cove 201, St Mary’s 232 Baskerville, Henry 113 Chysauster 214 183 Topsham 60 bathrooms 271 Dartmoor National Trevellas Porth 202 Truro 166 Bayard’s Cove 83 Park 118 Beacon 201 Bodinnick 152 beaches 18, 90-1 Beacon Cove 75 Halangy Down 232 Bodmin 43, 140, 144, 141 Bantham beach 90, 95, Hurlers, The 149 Bedruthan Steps 199 activities 140 90-1 beer 254 climate 140 Beer 64, 129 Beer 64-5, 129, 2, 129 food 140 Map Pages 000 Blackpool Sands 84 Beer Quarry Caves 64 highlights 141 Photo Pages 000 Bossiney Haven 188 Beer Regatta 23 travel seasons 140 279 Bodmin Moor 144-9, 141, Castle Drogo 117 Cliff Railway 133 D 142, 146, 147, 195 castles 244 climate 21-3, 268, 16 see Dart Valley Trail 83 itineraries 142-3 Berry Pomeroy 83 also individual regions Dartington Estate 79 Bodmin & Wenford Caerhays Castle 173 Clovelly 15, 128, 138-9, 5, Dartington International Railway 145 Castle Drogo 117 15, 128 Summer School & Bonfire Night 23 Dartmouth Castle 83 Coast to Coast Cycle Festival 80 Booby’s Bay 189 Trail 165 INDEX Dunster Castle 130-1 Dartmoor National Park 10, books 240, 258, 260 Cockington Country 43, 98-103, 109-19, 147, Launceston Castle 148 Boscastle 187-8 Park 71 99, 110, 2, 10, 147 Pendennis Castle 156 Coleton Fishacre 82, 86 activities 109-11 Bossiney Haven 188 B- Powderham Castle 54 Bramley, Frank 256 Colliford Lake 149 archeological sites 118 D Restormel Castle 172 Branscombe 51, 64 Constantine Bay 189 climate 98 St Mawes Castle 169 Branscombe Mouth 48, 49 Cook, Beryl 258 cycling tour 100 Tintagel Castle 188 Braunton 135 cooking courses 254 food 98 Totnes Castle 79-80 Braunton Burrows 137 Padstow 191 highlights 99 cathedrals, see churches & breweries 254 Roseland Peninsula 170 itineraries 102-3 cathedrals Brexit 241, 249 wild food 214 military use 109 Causley, Charles 258 Britannia Royal Naval Cookworthy Museum of tourist information 111 caves & tunnels 52 College 83 Rural Life 88 travel seasons 98 Beer Quarry Caves 64 Brixham 76-7 Cornish language 242 travel to/from 111-12 Carnglaze Caverns 149 Broomhill Sculpture Cornish Orchards 149 viewpoints 98 Gardens 137 Kents Cavern 70 Cornish pasties 15, 251, 15 warnings 109 Brown Willy 145 Merlin’s Cave 188 Cornish Seal Sanctuary woodlands 116 Brunel, Isambard Kingdom Underground 165 Dartmoor Prison Museum 108 Passages 52 Cornwall basics 16-17 113 Bryher 234-6, 234 Cawsand 178 costs 270 Dartmouth 14, 82-7, 84, 14 Buckland Abbey 112, 163, cell phones 271 Cotehele 145-8 225, 163, 225 Dartmouth Castle 83 Celtic rule 242-3 Cotehele Mill 148 Bude 186-7 Dartmouth Food Festival 85 Central Moor 145-8 courses Bude Sea Pool 186 Dartmouth Museum 83 Chagford 117-18 art 223, 256 budgeting 16-17, 31 Dartmouth Royal Regatta 22 Chapel Porth 201, 201 cooking 254 Burgh Island 96 Dartmouth Steam Railway Chapel Street 218 foraging 214 (Torquay) 73 burrows 137 Charles, Princes 83 Crackington Haven 186 Dartmouth Steam Railway & bus travel 33, 272-3, 274-5 cheese 253, 252 cream teas 250, 251, 252, Riverboat Company 84 business hours 17, 270 Cheesewring 147, 149, 147 252 Davy, Humphry 245 butterflies 264 children, travel with 40-1 credit cards 270 Dawlish Warren 78 Butterwalk 83 choughs 263 Croyde 136-7, 15 Daymer Bay 189, 193 Christie, Agatha 75, 82, Crusades, the 82 Dead Man’s Folly 83 C 82-3, 258 culture 256-60 deer 263 Cadgwith 229 walking tour 75, 75 currency 16 Devon basics 16-17 Caerhays Castle 173 Church Cove 227 cycling 36-7, 115, 273-4, Devon County Show 22 Camborne 203 churches & cathedrals 115, see also cycling Devonshire teas 250, 251, Camel Trail 191 Church of St Senara 218 tours 252, 252 Camel Valley Vineyard Exeter Cathedral 10, 52 Bude 186 disabilities, travellers 144-5 St Enodoc Church 193 Camel Trail 191 with 271 camping 20, 31, 266 St Winwaloe 227 Coast to Coast Cycle distilleries 100, 254 canoeing Truro Cathedral 166 Trail 165 Dittisham 97, 96 Falmouth 157 Chysauster 214 Dartmoor National Park diving 38, 238 Kingsbridge 88 cider 253 100, 109, 110, 100 Doc Martin 186, 189 Tamar Valley 179 cinemas 260 Exe Valley Way 59 Dodman Point 173 Totnes 80 Exmoor National Park Kingsbridge 89 dolphins 264 Cape Cornwall 217 126 Totnes 81 Donkey Sanctuary 63-4 Cardinham Woods 144 Great Flat Lode Trail 203 Truro 168