National Tourism Guide

NATIONAL TOURISM GUIDE

WETLANDS OF SUCUMBIOS PROVINCE

DEGREE INVESTIGATION TO GET THE PROFESSIONAL TITLE OF NATIONAL GUIDE

BY JORGE ALEJANDRO LUNA MUÑOZ

QUITO-ECUADOR JUNE 2017

WETLANDS OF SUCUMBIOS PROVINCE

BY JORGE ALEJANDRO LUNA MUÑOZ

APPROVED BY:

…………………………… ……………………………. LIC. RAUL MIRANDA MSG. LADY RAMIREZ TUTOR CAREER COORDINADOR

…………………………. ..…………………………. MSG. SYLVIA HERRERA LIC. CESAR CACUANGO

PROFESSIONAL GUIDE ENGLISH TEACHER

THANKS

A special thanks to my friends Mrs. and Mr. Ann & Dann Forter, for their continued support that encouraged me to complete this process.

I also express my sincere gratitude to Mr. Richard Parsons who enabled me to grow as professional.

DEDICATION

I dedicate this work to my family and a special feeling of gratitude to my loving parents, whose words have always pushed me to find my goals.

WETLANDS OF SUCUMBIOS PROVINCE

SUMMARY In the elaboration of this work “Wetlands of the Sucumbios Province” Limoncocha Biological Reserve was choosing as the most representative wetlands because its high biodiversity, its proximity to by the Cuyabeno Reserve, one of the most visited National Parks in the Amazon Region and also has the presence of indigenous groups in the area, considering all the factors, Limoncocha has a great potential to become a good destination focus concerning the importance of Wetlands. Due to importance of conservation and ecotourism in Ecuador, wetlands represent the one of the most interesting touristic destinations in the country to offer an experience to the visitor, which promotes the sustainable use of natural resources managed by the communities that live in the surroundings of this attraction. In the case of Limoncocha Biological Reserve, the main attraction is the lagoon, which provides the opportunity to practice different activities such as birdwatching, wildlife spotting (with the highlight of black caiman) sport fishing, hikes, general explanation of flora and fauna and the cultural introduction to the traditions and customs of the groups that live within the Reserve. The journey covers 3 provinces: Pichincha, Napo, Sucumbíos, and provides the chance to explore different habitats like Paramo Forest, Temperate Forest, Cloud Forest, Foothills, Amazon Rain Forest will be crossed. All the different ranges of altitude that we will cross are great for finding: orchids, monkeys, caimans, tarantulas, hummingbirds, toucans, flowers, great possibilities for spectacled bears, woolly monkeys, black caimans, Andean cock – of- the- Rock, Hoatzin, etc. This trip will help us to understand the importance of the different ecosystems enjoying the beauty of natural and cultural resources.

INTRODUCTION

According is the Ramsar Convention… which is the international treaty for conservation and sustainable use of wetlands. Wetlands are one of the ecosystems with the highest biological productivity, water sources and biological diversity and are indispensable because of the countless benefits or “ecosystem services” that they provide, ranging from freshwater supply, food and building materials, and biodiversity, to flood control, groundwater recharge, and climate change mitigation1. Studies demonstrates that wetland areas and quality continue to decline in most regions of the world. As a result, the ecosystem services that wetlands provide to people are compromised. From 1991, Ecuador was included within the countries that have this kind of ecosystems in order to improve the effort of conservation and the proper management of the wetlands. Ecuador currently has 18 sites designated as Wetlands of International Importance (Ramsar Sites), with a surface area of 290,815 hectares; one of the most remarkable one is Limoncocha2. Limoncocha Biological Reserve is located between the Coca and Aguarico Rivers on the northern shore of the Napo River in the province of Sucumbíos, it was declared a protected area on September 23rd, 1985 and boasts 18.000 hectares of tropical rainforest. Perhaps the most extraordinary natural attractions of Limoncocha, is the lagoon itself, which has an area of approximately 370 hectares of water surface. Species inventories estimate the existence of 144 bird species, 55 mammal species, 39 reptile species, 53 amphibian species, and 93 fish species3. The studies that have been done in the area indicate the presence of three ecosystems:

 Aquatic ecosystem, comprised of rivers and lagoons,  Flooded areas, which are found on the banks of rivers and lagoons;  Tropical Rainforest or call “terra firme forest” In addition to its biological richness, there is an important cultural heritage, currently a few Shuar and Quichua communities live within the boundaries of the reserve and sustain themselves mainly on agriculture, but they have started to establish various forms of ecotourism in order to generate income in a sustainable way.

1 Ramsar, The Importance of Wetlands, Review: 8 mayo 2017 in: http://www.ramsar.org/es/acerca-de/la- importancia-de-los-humedales 2Ramsar , Ecuador, Referido de URL: http://www.ramsar.org/wetland/ecuador 3 Sistema Nacional de Areas Protegidas, Reserva Biologica Limoncocha, Review: 8 mayo 2017 in: http://areasprotegidas.ambiente.gob.ec/en/areas-protegidas/limoncocha-biological-reserve

DEFINITION A is a land area that is saturated with water, either permanently or seasonally, such that it takes on the characteristics of a distinct ecosystem. The primary factor that distinguishes wetlands from other land forms or water bodies is the characteristic vegetation of aquatic plants, adapted to the unique hydric soil… Wetlands play a number of roles in the environment, principally water purification, flood control, carbon sink and shoreline stability; wetlands are also considered one of the most biologically diverse of all ecosystems, serving as home to a wide range of plant and animal life4. Wetlands occur naturally on every continent except Antarctica, the largest one including the Amazon River basin, the West Siberian Plain, and the Pantanal in South America. The water found in wetlands can be freshwater, brackish, or saltwater. The main wetland types include swamps, marshes, bogs, and fens; and sub-types like mangrove, pocosin, and varzea. Wetlands have unique characteristics: they are generally distinguished from other water bodies or landforms based on their water level and on the types of plants that live within them. Specifically, wetlands are characterized as having a water table that stands at or near the land surface for a long enough period each year to support aquatic plants5. A more concise definition is a community composed of hydric soil and hydrophyte6.

4 Wetland ecology: principles and conservation (2nd ed.). New York: Cambridge University Press. p. 497. ISBN 978-0521519403. Review: 8 mayo 2017: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wetland / Keddy, Paul A. (2010). 5 Wetland Definition "Glossary of Terms". Carpinteria Valley Water District. Archived from the original on April 25, 2012. Retrieved 2012-05-23 6 Wetland characteristics,"US EPA". Retrieved 2011-09-25. 8Sistema Nacional de Areas Protegidas, Reserva Biologica Limoncocha, Geografia/ Review: 8 mayo 2017: http://areasprotegidas.ambiente.gob.ec/en/areasprotegidas/limoncocha-biological-reserve

JUSTIFICATION In recent years, both, ecotourism and comunitary tourism have increased positively, in order to enjoy the destinations, visitors also want to contribute to the development of projects that are run by local people, and they have found that sustainable activities can easily replace the extractive activities such as hunting, fishing, logging and so on. The profile of our visitors in this case is a group of Fench people with the average age of 40-60 years old, a typical European enjoys outdoor activities, and since the area offers a variety of attractions with different levels of difficulty, it has been chosen as the best alternative to know a unique ecosystem including all the facilities. It has been considered the best option because it takes less time to get to the Lodge, and it was designed to enjoy different types of ecosystems through the East Slope of Andes with several stops before to arriving at the main attraction “Limoncocha Biological Reserve” in route pertinent explanations will be given concerting the attractions and human issues they will be encountered

OBJETIVES GENERAL OBJETIVE

 To make people realize that we have a great country to travel. Having good conservation areas, guides, transportation services, lodging; the experience will be unique.

 To introduce visitors to the richness of the biodiversity of a place (Limoncocha Biodiversity Reserve) that has been catalogued as an importante area for conservation or a global scale, in order to strengthen tourism as a community initiative.

SPECIFIC OBJETIVE

 With this work, to demonstrate to the authorities of the University UDET, the student Jorge Luna´s capacity to guide with professionalism all regions in Ecuador.

 To get the Title of National Guide, after to showing that we did a good tour, with the Tutor Lic. Raul Miranda, taking the best places its consideration.

 To consider wetlands as an important attraction for visitors with the purpose of a special travel experience.

INVESTIGATION METHODOLOGY

 FIELD RESEARCH A previous visit was done in order to obtain and verify the facilities of the different services and check the conditions of the attractions along the route.

 DOCUMENTS There are some documents published about the Reserve especially tourist offers for foreigners, and but there are also some studies about the importance and quality of the water of Limoncocha wetlands.

 PROVIDED INFORMATION Information was provided specially by rangers that manage the Information Stations that the National Parks own, the explanations of the conditions, services, facilities, schedules and prices was updated by them.

1. ATTRACTIONS OF THE AREA

1.1. COFANES - BERMEJO RESERVE

Figura 1. Shaman Cofán, picture taken by MolinaAndrea (2015)

The reserve is located on the north side of the Cascales canton. San Miguel River runs through the north border of the reserve and separates it from Colombian territory. Within the reserve the Bermejo and Chandia Na´e Rivers are born, and

some tributaries of the Aguarico River. The Cofan communities that are within this reserve are Soquie, Tayo´su Canqque, Chandia Na´e and Alto Bermejo7. The high basin of Bermejo River, now within this protected area, has been from ancient times ancestral territory for the Cofan nationality. For this reason, its members are active participants with the Ministry of Environment in the protection and managing of the reserve8. The range of altitude is 440-220 masl. The land covers an extension of pristine forest which belong to the ancestral territory of the ethnic group Cofán de Sinangoe. The Cofán have fought since the 1970s for the legal right to manage their historical ancestral territories. The transfer of 136,000 acres (55,000 hectares) to the Cofan Bermejo Ecological Reserve in 2002, home to the Bermejo, Chandia Na’e, Soquié, and Tayosu Canqque Cofán communities, is the first example in Ecuador of federally- protected lands being placed in the official custody of the resident indigenous people. This reserve represents a significant victory for conservation and now serves as an innovative model for science-based land stewardship by indigenous people. They successfully negotiated a co-management and cooperation agreement in 2002 with the Ecuadorian Ministry of Enivronment to directly protect and manage more than 250,000 acres within the Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve, home to the Sinangoe Cofán community and a region rich with tradition for all the Cofán in Ecuador. In 2004 gained the rights to the use and management of the 370,600-acre Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve, where the Zábalo Cofán community is located and an area of extremely high biodiversity.The most recent success in the recovery of ancient land has been gaining the title to 30,000 hectares in the Rio Cofanes Territory in September 2007, despite severe opposition from many other groups interested in the great wealth that this pristine forest area has to offer, especially in terms of minerals and gold. Finally, the Cofán are currently working on creating a conservation corridor, or “Franja Verde”, between the Cofan Bermejo and Cayambe Coca Ecological reserves, an important watershed zone for the country.

7 System of Proteteced Areas/Punto Verde/Geography/r Review: 8 mayo 2017: http://areasprotegidas.ambiente.gob.ec/en/areas-protegidas/cofán-bermejo-ecological-reserve 8 National System of Proteteced Areas/Punto Verde/Description/ Review: 8 mayo 2017: http://areasprotegidas.ambiente.gob.ec/en/areas-protegidas/cofán-bermejo-ecological-reserve

There are 13 communities in northeastern Ecuador, scattered from high cloud and montane forests down to tropical rain forests. Cofán communities are legally organized according to Ecuadorian laws under “centros” or “comunas,” however Cofán villages maintain leadership structures very similar to their traditional forms.9

1.2. SAN RAFAEL WATERFALLS

Figura 2. San Rafael Waterfalls, picture taken by Luna Jorge (2017)

The San Rafael Waterfall, the highest and mightiest fall in Ecuador; it is located on the border of the provinces of Napo and Sucumbios, on route to Nueva Loja, 25 km from the city of Tena and about 61 km from Baeza. The waterfall has a drop of over 150 meters, formed by the descent of the Coca river, surrounded by a landscape filled with tropical vegetation10.

9 An overview of Territory Cofan/Description/ Review: 8 mayo 2017 in :/http://www.cofan.org/cofan-people/ 10 San Rafael Waterfalls/wonders/information/ Review: 8 mayo 2017 in::https://www.ecostravel.com/en/ecuador/new-wonders-ecuador/san-rafael-waterfall.php

1.3. CUYABENO WILDLIFE RESERVE

Figura 3. Cuyabeno Reserve, picture taken by Luna Jorge (2015)

It is located in the Putumayo Canton in the Sucumbíos Province and in the Aguarico Canton in the Orellana Province. It was decreed on 26 July 1979 as part of the creation of the national protected areas system.

From east to west, the elevation gently slopes from about 300 meters to slightly under 200 m above sea level and has an area of 603,380 ha (1,490,000 acres). The Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve is an important nature reserve in Amazonia with rather unusual ecological characteristics. Located at the foothills of the Andes, the area encompasses a poorly drained plain with a network of periodically inundated forests, lakes and creeks.

All large amazon mammals are present;11 the lowland tapirs, two species of deer, all Amazon cats, including jaguars and pumas, capibaras, two species of dolphins, manatees, both otter species, giant otter, and neotropical otter, etc.

Monkeys are represented by 10 species, while rodents and bats are represented by dozens of species. The current number of registered bird species around 580 species have been observed, estimated 350 fish species, two species of caymen, boa constrictors and anacondas, while countless frogs and toads sing their never-ending concerts.

Dolphins have been seen swimming deep in the flooded forest during high water, as they follow fish.

11 Categories: Articulos/ Nature reserves in Ecuador/Geography of Sucumbíos Province/Tourist attractions in Orellana Province, Review: 8 mayo 2017 in: https://en.naturereserves/Cuyabeno_Wildlife_Reserve

1.4. LIMONCOCHA BIOLOGICAL RESERVE

Figura 4. Limoncocha Reserve, picture taken by Luna Jorge (2017)

The reserve has an area of 4613 hectares and a height that exceeds 200 m.a.s.l. It was created on September 23, 1985 by Ministerial Agreement No 394 (published in the Official Gazette No 283 on October 1, in the same year).12

Limoncocha Lagoon, in ancient times called Capucui lagoon, has fluvial origin, made up with an arm of the Pishira River. It is located 210 km at the east of Quito and 3.2 Km north of the outfall of the Napo River. Its flat bottom reaches a maximum depth of 2.3 m. The lagoon is surrounded by aquatic and semi-aquatic vegetation. The western side of the lake shows the presence of abundant filamentous algae.

The area is characterized by the presence of marshes that are permanently flooded and poorly drained. Also in this area there is several water sources exploited in domestic labor by the people who live near the lagoon

Equally, in hydrological terms, the headwater of Napo River represents an important water resource for the region. It is located in the Cordillera de los Andes, under the influence of glacial-snow system of the Andes and precipitations associated with the foothills of the Cordillera Oriental along with the system of the tropical rainforest of the lowlands.

12 Cuyabeno/Biological reserve/ information: Review: 9 mayo 2017 in: http://www.quitoadventure.com/ecuador-adventure/parks-reserves/amazon-region/limoncocha-biological- reserve.html

2. SELECTION OF ATTRACTIVES, SERVICE PROVIDERS AND ACTIVITIES TO ALLOW THE DESING OF THREE ROUTE OPTIONS

2.1.OPTION ONE

DISCOVERING WETLANDS IN THE NORTH EAST OF ECADOR-SUCUMBIOS PROVINCE

2.1.1 Day one:

6.00 Meeting UDET

7.30 – 8.30 Short visit to Cayambe-Coca National Park

9.00 – 10.00 Breakfast at Guango Lodge

13.00 Lunch in Hostería Reventador

13.45 – 14.45 Short walk to San Rafael Waterfall

14.45 -18.00 Check in Gran Hotel del Lago

18.00-18.30 Break

18.30 -19.30 Dinner at Gran Hotel del Lago

19.30-20.00 Driving to Limoncocha Biologic Reserve

20.00-21.00 Canoe nigth ride at Limoncocha Wetland

21.30 Overnight at Gran Hotel del Lago

2.1.2. Day two:

6.00-7.00 Breakfast

7.00 - 7.30 Driving to Limoncocha Biologic Reserve

7.30-11.00 Boat tour at Limoncocha Biologic Reserve

11.30 -12.00 Time for showering and packing

12.00-13.00 Lunch at Gran Hotel del Lago

13.30 Return to Quito

19.00 Arriving to UDET, Quito

2.2. OPTION TWO

EXCHANTED FOOTHILLS OF THE AMAZON BASIN

2.2.1 Day one:

9.00 Meeting at the airport

10.10 Flying to Lago Agrio

10.50 Pickup from the airport

10.50 -12.45 Driving to the port of Cuyabeno Lodge

13.00-13.30 Lunch at the port

13.30-16.30 Motor canoe to Cuyabeno Lodge

16.30 Check in Cuyabeno Lodge

16.30-18.00 Break

18.00-18.45 Dinner

19.00-20.30 Night walk

20.30 Overnigth Cuyabeno Lodge

2.3.3. Day two:

6.00-7.00 Birding walk

7.00-7.45 Breakfast

7.45 -8.00 Break

8.00-10.00 Driving back to the port

11.30 Check in fly to Quito

12.30 Arrive to Quito

2.3. OPTION THREE

MAGIC WETLANDS AND WATERFALLS

2.3.1 Day one:

6.30 Meeting UDET

8.00 Box breakfast on Papallacta Pass

8.00 – 9.00 Visit to Cayambe-Coca National Park

12.0 – 13.30 Lunch in Baeza

14.30 - 15.30 Hike to Guacamayos Trail

18.00 -18.30 Driving to Coca – Limoncocha Community

18.30 - 19.00 Check in Limoncocha Hostal

19.00 -19.45 Break

20.00 - 21.00 Dinner

20.00 Nigth walk at Limoncocha Biologic Reserve

21.00 Overnight at Limoncocha Community

2.3.3. Day two:

6.00-7.00 Birding walk

7.00-7.45 Breakfast

7.45 -8.30 Break

8.30-10.30 Boat tour to Limoncocha Bioloical Reserve

10.30-12.00 Hike around the Comunity

12.00-12.30 Break

12.30-13.30 Lunch

13.30-14.00 Packing time

14.00 Return to Quito

20.00 Arriving to UDET, Quito

3. EVALUATE BY WEIGHTING TO DEFINITION THE ROUTE TECHNICALLY OPTIMAL Description table: Number (3) the best option Number (2) good option Number (1) lowest technically option

Tabla 1: Evaluation of routes

SETTINGS OPTION 1 OPTION 2 OPTION 3 LANDSCAPE 3 3 3 VARIETY OF FLORA 3 3 3 VARIETY OF FAUNA 3 3 3 LODGING 3 2 1 ATTRACTIONS 3 2 3 DISTANCE TRAVELING 2 3 1 INNOVATION ROUTE 3 2 2 TOTAL: 20 18 16 Elaborated by: Luna, Jorge. 2017 Landscape, involving flora and fauna are going to be similar because is the same area. Lodging is a big difference, in the chosen option the Hotel is a five stars accommodation which is needed after a long drive, in the option number 2 lodging is good but rustic, considering the average age of the French visitors option number 3 is not a suitable one. Driving can be an issue for the long distance but considering the restricted time for the visit has been decided to take this instead of the flight in order to take advantage of the attractions. The earliest flight departures at 10:10 am and on the way back the schedule is 11:30 am that doesn’t allow us to visit many attractions and restrict the activities. By weight and exploring the route with the Tutor Lic. Raul Miranda, we chose option number 1, which gives the chance to explore foothills of Andes until reach the Amazon basin understanding the way that wetlands are created, their distribution and importance. For these reasons route number 1 is the most innovated and the one that covers the highest expectation in two days, one night.

4. OPERATING ITINERARY

Tabla 2: Operating Itinerary

DAY ONE STARTING FROM UNTIL DURATION ACTIVITIES 6.00 am 7.30 am 1.30 hour DRIVING FROM THE MEETING POINT TO PAPALLACTA PASS 7.30 am 8.30 am 1 hour VISIT TO CAYAMBE COCA NATIONAL PARK 8.30 am 9.00 am 30 min DRIVING TO GUANGO LODGE FOR BREAKFAST 9.00 am 10.00 am 1 hour BREAKFAST AT GUANGO LODGE 10.00 am 13.00 am 3 hour DRIVING TO REVENTADOR LODGE FOR LUNCH 13.00 pm 13.45 pm 45 min LUNCH AT REVENTADOR LODGE 13.45 pm 14.45 pm 1 hour SHORT WALK TO REVENTADOR WATERFALLS 14.45 pm 18.00 pm 3.15 hours DRIVING TO GRAN HOTEL DEL LAGO 18.00 pm 18.30 pm 30 min BREAK TIME 18.30 pm 19.30 pm 1 hour DINNER AT GRAN HOTEL DEL LAGO 19.30 pm 20.00 pm 30 min DRIVING TO LIMONCOCHA BIOLOGICAL RESERVE 20.00 pm 21.00 pm 1 hour CANOE NIGHT RIDE AT THE RESERVE 21.00 pm 21.30 pm 30 min DRIVING BACK TO GRAN HOTEL DEL LAGO 21.30 pm ARRIVING TO THE LODGE AND OVERNIGHT

DAY TWO STARTING FROM UNTIL DURATION ACTIVITIES 6.00 am 7.00 am 1.00 hour BREAKFAST AT GRAN HOTEL DEL LAGO 7.00 am 7.30 am 30 min DRIVING TO LIMONCOCHA BIOLOGICAL RESERVE 7.30 am 11.00 am 3.30 min BOAT TOUR AL LIMONCOCHA BIOLOGICAL RESERVE 11.00 am 11.30 am 30 min DRIVING BACK TO THE LODGE TO DO THE CHECK OUT 11.30 am 12.00 pm 30 min TIME TO TAKE A SHOWER AND CHECK OUT 12.00 pm 13.00 pm 1.00 hour LAST MEAL AT GRAN HOTEL DEL LAGO 13.00 pm 13.30 pm 30 min BREAK AND READY TO LEAVE THE PLEACE 13.30 pm 19.00 pm 5.30 hours DRIVING TO QUITO

Elaborated by: Luna, Jorge. 2017

4.1. DAY ONE 6.00 Meeting UDET.

We agree on the best meeting point considering the area were the visitor live.

7.30 – 8.30 Short visit to Cayambe-Coca National Park

The first stop is going to be at the border between Pichincha and Napo Province to visit a ranger station that is an access to de Cayambe-Coca Reserve, it is also de beginning of the trail” El agua y la Vida” to see the different lagoons from an altitude of 4300 mts.

9.00 – 10.00 Breakfast at Guango Lodge

Guango Lodge is one of the most remarkable places to stay in the area that offers excellent food and the yards are surrounded by hummingbird feeders and orchids.

13.00 Lunch in Hostería Reventador

Hosteria Reventador is right at the border between Napo and Sucumbíos Provinces with wonderful views of waterfalls and the confluences of the Quijos and Salado rivers.

13.45 – 14.45 Short walk to San Rafael Waterfall

This waterfall is considered one of the most beautiful in the country, offers a short trail of 1km that takes us to a view point were the waterfall can be enjoy.

14.45 -18.00 Check in Gran Hotel del Lago

After a drive to de Amazonian roads we arrive to this Hotel, part of a hotel chain in the East slope that offers all the facilities and comfort required.

18.00-18.30 Break

Time to rest and get prepared for the next activities.

18.30 -19.30 Dinner at Gran Hotel del Lago

Before to leave to the Reserve, we will enjoy of the cuisine that the hotel offers.

19.30-20.00 Driving to Limoncocha Biologic Reserve

In just half an hour and crossing some check points managed by the oil company we will find the Information Centre of the Limoncocha Biological Reserve.

20.00-21.00 Canoe night ride at Limoncocha Wetland

Together with a local guide will take a ride in a motorized canoe around Limoncocha Lagoon looking for the emblematic black caiman and some other nocturnal species of amphibians, reptiles and birds.

21.30 Overnight at Gran Hotel del Lago

After a long journey we drive back to the Hotel for enjoying the installations and resting.

4.2. DAY TWO

6.00-7.00 Breakfast

An early start is required to enjoy a different experience in Limoncocha Lagoon.

7.00 - 7.30 Driving to Limoncocha Biologic Reserve

The same short route taken the previous night is going to be done.

7.30-11.00 Boat tour at Limoncocha Biologic Reserve

Early in the morning is an excellent chance for birdwatching in wetlands, vegetation and swamps provide the best habitat for shore birds and mammals.

11.30 -12.00 Time for showering and packing

A refreshing break is taken in the same Hotel to start our drive back.

12.00-13.00 Lunch at Gran Hotel del Lago

Before departure we will enjoyed of a tasty buffet at the Hotel

13.30 Return to Quito

The drive back to the city is going to take us 6 hours and a half approximately with short stops for using the facilities.

19.00 Arriving to UDET, Quito

After enjoying wetlands on the East Slope we arrive in Quito.

5. DURING THE TOUR We will meet at 6:am, an early departure to explore the East Slope wetlands, we drive to the north east side of Quito to take the Troncal Amazonica E45 Highway, in about an hour and a half after pass a patch of Polylepis Forest at 3.000 mts; we arrive to a shrine that is a marking point of the border between Pichincha and Napo Province, on the left side we have the first ranger control that takes to a 6 km road to reach the highest point of the area and our trip well known as Las Antenas de Papallacta and the beginning of “El agua y la vida “ trail. In a clear day is possible to see several volcanoes such as Pichincha Complex (Guagua 4.776 mts / Rucu 4.698 mts) Antisana 5.704 mts, Cayambe 5.790 mts and the Sucus, Mentala, Parcacocha y Yuyuos Lagoon.

Figura 5 : Paramo Forest, photo taken taken by: Luna Jorge (2017)

We are near by the Ñucanchi Turupamba Wetlands which is an important area of Andean moorlands located at 50 km northeast from Quito and in the southeast area of the Cayambe-Coca Reserve, this reserve cover 403.103 and is located in is the Provinces of Pichincha Napo and Sucumbios with a range of altitude from 5.790 mts to 2.000 mts. Ñucanchi Turupamba Wetlands is the Ramsar site No. 1625, declared on May 2006. The extension is 12.290 has and is conformed by microcatchments of the Cunuyacu River and the systems of Nunalviro, Yumbos y Boyeros13.

13 COMPLEJO DE HUMEDALES ÑUCANCHI TURUPAMBA. Review: 9 mayo 2017 in: http://www.ramsar.org/wetland/ecuador 21

A number of water storage areas have been built within the site for water treatment, irrigation and to generate electricity for approximately 1,500,000 people. Due to its localization on high mountains, this area is the least disturbed by humans and contains the most endemic species of all the zones. Flora includes Azorella pedunculata of the Apiaceae family and species from the Asteraceae, Fabaceae, Bromeliacea, and Ericaceae families.14 The most broadly described zone is the grass páramo. Grass páramos cover large areas of mountain ranges, while others are limited to small areas on slopes and summits of very high mountains. The term "páramo" is sometimes used to refer to this specific type. It has continuous vegetation and plant cover with a "yellowish to olive–brown" look due to the combination of dead and living grasses. Fauna that inhabit in this ecosystem includes species such as: Spectacle Bear, Paramo Fox, White-tailed Deer, Brazilian Rabbit, Dwarf Deer, Mountain Tapir, Andean Condor, Caranculated Caracara, Ecuadorian Hillstar, Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe, Giant Conebill, Tawny Antpitta and many others.

Figura 6: Spectacled Bear, photo taken by, Luna Jorge (2017)

14 Luteyn, James L. (1999). Páramos: A Checklist of Plant Diversity, Geographical Distribution, and Botanical Literature. Bronx, New York: New York Botanical Garden Press. / Review: 16 mayo 2017 in: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/P%C3%A1ramo#cite_note-Luteyn-2

Officially in the Napo Province, is needed to mentioned bravely about the journey that was taken in order to discover de Ecuadorian Amazon Basin in colonial times; is one of the great adventure tales of Spain's conquest of America, began in February 1541, when the lure of spices, particularly cinnamon, led Pizarro's brother Gonzalo to set off from Quito to the eastern jungle with a party that included 210 Spaniards and some 4,000 Indians. Orellana was second in command. After several months of hardship and deprivation during a crossing of the Cordillera Oriental of the Andes that cost the lives of nearly half the party, Gonzalo Pizarro placed Orellana in charge of building a brigantine in the Coca River in present-day Ecuador. Together with fifty-seven Spaniards and several hundred Indians, Orellana sailed downstream in search of food and friendly natives. The explorers never rejoined Pizarro, however, but set out on their own in search of neither food nor spices, but gold. The group reached the mouth of the Amazon, a name given by Orellana because he believed that they had been attacked by the legendary giant female warriors at a point below the Negro River, and sailed northward along the Atlantic coast as far as Venezuela, then back to Spain. The journey completed by the expedition headed by Orellana was not to be repeated for 100 years.15

Figura 7: Papallacta river, photo taken by, Luna Jorge (2017)

Driving through to the highway it takes us 30 more minutes to get to Guango Lodge, the first fork takes to Papallacta Village which translated from Quechua language means land of potatoes and is popular for foreigners and locals due to its hot springs that have healing properties and come from the Antisana Volcano,

15 Discovery and Conquest. Review: 15 mayo 2017 in: / http://countrystudies.us/ecuador/5.htm

gastronomy includes rainbow trout, chicken broth, faba beans and corn cob servedwith fresh cheese. On the right side we can see the first CEYM Pumping station which is managed by an international contractor and is in charge of field support in electrical and mechanical issues related to oil. We start to see Chalpi Grande and the Papallacta Rivers that later on will conformed the Quijos River and the Coca River all of these part of the Napo River basin. In a clear morning is possible to see the Antisana Volcano, the 4 highest in Ecuador with an elevation of 5.704 mts, the Ecological Reserve that has the same name, covers Pichincha and Napo Provinces and has an extension of 120.000 has, the range of altitude is from 5.704 to 1400 mts and among the outstanding attractions can be mentioned La Mica Lagoon, El Isco Cliff, Antisanilla. Guango Lodge is managed by a local family, operating for about 11 years, its target are the birdwatchers but it also offers trails for hiking. The surroundings have hummingbird feeders with 14 species recorded so far and is possible to take a short hike to reach the river were the Torrent Duck can be spotted. Meals at this place are well known because is a fusion between local and gourmet food that is way we have breakfast here; we will spend here from 9 to 9:30 am. After breakfast we continue to pass Cuyuja Village, a destination well known because of mountain climbing in the “Peña de Pivico” and the small industry of dairy products, on the left side we have the camp of the Quijos Hydroelectric Proyect which provides electricity to Papallacta, Cosanga, Baeza y Cuyuja. Some of the activities during festivals are races in wooden cars, performances of local artists and parades doing horseback riding. The Quijos River that can be seen on the right side, is famous for hosting the 2005 International Rafting Championships. It flows through some of the highest Andean peaks and eventually drains into the Amazon River, is one of the most well knoe white water rivers. Rafting trips on the Quijos are offered during the Southern Hemisphere’s summer, from November to March.16 Next we have the Base Guagrayacu, a Police Control which has a special group called “Gema” (Grupo Especial Movil Antinarcoticos) that are in charge of illegal narcotics.

16 Rafting in the Quijos river. Review: 7 mayo 2017 in / http://www.rafting.com/south- america/ecuador/quijos-river/

The transition of forest is clear at this point, we are at 1.500 mts and vegetation changes for taller trees cover with a variety of epiphytes, orchids, tree ferns, cecropias that belong to the cloud forest. We arrive to the fork that divides Coca from Lago Agrio roads, we will take the left side following the same E45 Highway, on this road we have the second Pumping Station named Osayacu working from 2002 and is in charge to pump gas and crude oil. Oil on the east slope is based in hydrocarbon-bearing formations of the Cretaceous Napo and Hollin formations.17 It was discovered in the area in 1960. The Lago Agrio field is known internationally for the serious ecological problems that oil development has created there, including water pollution, soil contamination, deforestation and cultural upheaval. In 1964, Texaco Petroleum Company (TexPet) began exploring for oil in northeast Ecuador, in an area which was inhabited by indigenous people. The following year, it started operating a consortium owned equally by itself and Gulf Oil to develop a tract in the area. Nueva Loja was founded as a base camp of Texaco. The consortium struck oil in 1967 and began full-scale production in 1972. The Ecuadorian government, through its national oil company CEPE, now Petroecuador, obtained a 25 percent interest in the consortium in 1974. Gulf subsequently sold its interest to CEPE. By 1976, the consortium was majority-owned by the Ecuadorian government. TexPet transferred management of the consortium to Petroecuador in 1990. TexPet's concession expired in 1993, leaving Petroecuador as the sole owner. Petroecuador continues drilling in the area. Produced oil is transported by the 498-kilometre (309 mi) Sistema de Oleoducto Transecuatoriano (SOTE) and 506-kilometre (314 mi) Oleoducto de Crudos Pesados (OCP) pipelines to the marine terminal at Balao. Lago Agrio is also connected by the San Miguel–Lago Agrio pipeline. The multiproduct Poliducto pipeline runs from Lago Agrio to Quito.18 Since 1993, lawyers representing local residents have sought to force former well operator Texaco and its now parent company Chevron Corporation to clean up the area and provide for the care of those allegedly affected. In February 2011, an

17 "Ecuador geology". The Oil & Gas Week. 2013-02-13. Retrieved 2014-04-25./ Lago Agrio Oil field / Review: 7 mayo 2017 in: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lago_Agrio_oil_field#cite_note- theoilandgasweek130213-2 18 Development and ownership/ "Chevron ordered to pay $8 billion by Ecuador court". Los Angeles Times. February 14, 201. Review: 7 mayo 2017 in: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lago_Agrio_oil_field#cite_note- theoilandgasweek130213-2.

Ecuadorian court ordered Chevron to pay $8 billion in compensation, a ruling the company called "illegitimate" and vowed to appeal. In March 2014, a United States court found that the 2011 Ecuadorian verdict was obtained by the plaintiffs against Chevron through "coercion, bribery, money laundering and other misconduct." In August 2016, an appeals court upheld the 2014 racketeering verdict against the Chevron adversaries.19 We keep going and on the left hand side, if is clear enough, will be possible to see the Reventador Volcano, one of the three volcanoes in constant process of eruption. Geographically it forms a line together with the Pan de Azucar, Sumaco and Puyo Cones, because of location, this is one of the volcanoes with less accessibility and it is believed that it has had 16 different eruptions from 1541 to now. The altitude is 3.560 mts and has been modified from the latest eruption in 2002 to the current days. 20 Continue to the road and we pass through little villages such as Borja, Sardinas, El Chaco, Santa Rosa de Quijos, Dias de Pineda; that in some cases offer orchid farms because of the location and weather that gather some of the 4.300 species of orchids that Ecuador has. Orchids conform a third of the country´s endemic (1.710 spp).

Figura 8: Maxillaria Orchid (s/p), photo taken by, Luna Jorge (2015)

After a while we descend a little bit more to reach 1.500 mts and we can see the sign for “Cueva de los Tayos” referred to Oilbirds.

19 Smythe, Christie; Hurtado, Patricia (2014). "Chevron Wins U.S. Ruling Calling Ecuador Judgment Fraud" (online). Bloomberg BusinessWeek (March 4). Retrieved 9 January 2016. / Lago Agrio oil field / Review: 6 mayo 2017 in: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lago_Agrio_oil_field#cite_note-bloomberg140304-8 20 Volcan Reventador/ IGM. Review: 6 mayo 2017 in http://www.igepn.edu.ec/reventador 26

This is the only nocturnal flying bird that feeds from palm fruit and seeds of tropical trees, they have special eyesight that helps to navigate through ecolocation, the same as bats. They live in caves in large colonies up to 50 individuals producing a loud call during days when are disturbed.

Figura 9: Oilbird, photo taken by, Luna Jorge (2017) The habitat has change again and it has the appearance of jungle, unfortunately nearby us we can see the oil pipe line. The Trans-Ecuadorian Oil Pipeline System SOTE was created because the transportation of the supply of crude oil was a problem, in 1997 the government of Ecuador made plans to build a new heavy crude pipeline. The lagging transportation capability (already operating at full or near capacity) had been impacting the further development of Ecuador's petroleum industry. It was estimated that up to 100,000bpd of potential production was shut- in because there was no way to export it or transport it to the refinery. The country's first refinery was built at Esmeralda on the Pacific coast, and the trans-Ecuador oil pipeline system (Sistema Oleducto Trans-Ecuatoriano, SOTE) was constructed between Lago Agrio and the Balao oil terminal to transport high-value light crude oil (29° to 30° API) a distance of 503km (310 miles) from the oilfields of the East. The new pipeline has promoted additional foreign investments in oil production, and has paved the way to double the country's oil production.

The SOTE is used by Petroecuador and the new OCP is used by foreign oil companies for crude transport.21 A star Waterfall star attraction in this province, thebeautiful is el Malo Waterfall, also named Cascada Magica that is 50 mts high. One of the most controversial projects run in the country is the construction of a new hydroelectric project, The Coca Codo Sinclair facility, is the largest energy project in Ecuador's history. Located in the Amazon Basin, between the provinces of Napo and Sucumbíos, the 1,500MW project is a run-of-river development on the Coca River. It is expected to produce an average of 8.63GWh a year, supplying approximately 44% of the country's electricity needs. Backed by strong political will, the project is being promoted as a centrepiece of the new energy plan in Ecuador, which aims to replace thermoelectric energy from fossil fuels with renewable hydroelectric energy, and the import of energy from Peru and Colombia with self-sufficient energy production from renewable sources. The developer and owner of the project is Coca Sinclair EP (Coca Codo Sinclair EP), a state-owned special-purpose enterprise established in 2010. Construction of the $2.6bn project started in 2010 and was completed in 2016, creating 3,000 direct jobs and 15,000 indirect jobs. It supposes to reduce CO2 emissions by 4.5 million tonnes a year. The first four of the eight turbines became operational in April 2016, while the remaining turbines are expected to come online in the second half of 2016. A tunnel collapse at the plant construction site killed 13 people and injured 12 in December 2014. It also caused partial damage to the high-pressure pipes inside the engine room. Coca Codo is being financed through The Export-Import Bank of China is financing 85% through a $1.68bn loan payable in 15 years, with the remaining funds coming from the Ecuador Government. The project will reportedly affect approximately 2,000 people. The major controversies are that it will render the San Rafael Falls, the highest waterfall of Ecuador, dry and that the road constructions to the project site have led to deforestation in the UNESCO Sumaco Biosphere Reserve.22

21 SOTE/Pretroecuador, oil/ used/ Review: 6 mayo 2017 in: http://www.hydrocarbons- technology.com/projects/sote/

22 Coca Codo Sinclair Hydroelectric Project, Ecuador. Review: 6 mayo 2017 in http://www.hydrocarbons- technology.com/projects/sote/

We keep driving and we reach the entrance of the Sucumbios Province marking its border with the Salado River, crossing the bridge we enter into Sucumbíos, its largest city is Nueva Loja (normally referred to as Lago Agrio). It is the fifth largest province in the country, with an area of 18,084 km². Is bounded on the north by Colombia, on the south by Napo and Orellana, on the west by Carchi and Imbabura, on the east by Peru. Sucumbíos is the only province in Ecuador that borders two different countries.

Figura 10: Coca-Codo Sinclaer Proyect, photo taken by, Luna Jorge (2017) The main river in the province is the Aguarico River. It passes close to Nueva Loja, and empties into the Napo, on the Peruvian border. Other important rivers are the Putumayo, which marks the border with Colombia, and the Coca and Napo Rivers, in the south.

Sucumbíos was an unexplored area, where only indigenous people lived, until oil was discovered in its soil. In 1979, after nine years of foundation, Nueva Loja became the seat of its own canton, Lago Agrio Canton, in the Napo Province. On February 13, 1989, Sucumbíos became the 21st province in the country when it separated from Napo province.23

One of the most beautiful attractions of Ecuador, is its highest waterfall, San Rafael, 160 mts tall, from when the Qhijos river passes through a double set of split rocks and then combines with Napo river and flows into the Amazon, has a great lookout point and the trail offers a good chance for birdwatching with emblematic species like Cock of the Rock.

Back to the highway it is evident the pass of the oil companies with an obvious pipe all along the road, by now you can read the expressions of local people

23 Sucumbios Province Review: 6 mayo 2017 in http://www.inec.gob.ec/preliminares/base_presentacion.html 29

that disagree with the result of the trials that has taken place in Ecuador and United States for the impact cause by Texaco Chevron.

Texaco-Gulf operated in Ecuador for almost thirty years, between 1964 and 1992, in the Ecuadorian Amazon region. During this period, Texaco drilled 339 wells in 15 petroleum fields and 627 toxic wastewater pits were abandoned, along with other elements of petroleum infrastructure.

Figura 11: Oil Blocks, Map by: Secretaría de Hidrocarburos. Ecuador (2015)

The deforestation of 2,000,000 hectares of land is attributed to petroleum operations in the northern Ecuadorian Amazon, as well as massive water contamination with toxic substances and heavy metals. The wastes derived from petroleum operations and accidental crude oil spills have had a major effect on forests, rivers, and estuaries: “It has also been estimated that the company deliberately dumped tons of toxic drilling and maintenance wastes and 19 billion gallons of produced wastes into the environment without treatment or monitoring, despite oil industry standards that suggest reinjecting the wastes back into the ground. In addition to routine deliberate discharges, accidental spills were common.

During the time that Texaco operated the main trans-Ecuadorean pipeline, spills from that line alone sent an estimated 16.8 million gallons of crude into the environment.

Consequences for these actions are… Cancer as the primary cause of death in the area, a rate of spontaneous miscarriages, widespread death of animals from drinking water contaminated with crude, falling in pits, or by asphyxiation caused by natural gas.24

Chevron declares that is fully aware of the challenges faced by the residents of the region and is sympathetic to their plight. However, Chevron firmly rejects the notion that it should be held accountable for addressing the overall problems of the region, caused because the government and the state oil company who are unwilling or unable to shoulder their responsibility.25

Following our journey, we reach Cascales, this busy town runs an interesting project is a micro enterprise named Tsampi (Cofan-Selva), Etze (Shuar-name of the seed that represents the logo) Muyu (Kichwa-seed). The company is conformed by 14 members, 4 from the Cofan comunity, 1 from Kichwa comunity, and 9 that are Shuar. 78% are women, and the products are jewelry like bracelets, necklaces, rings and earrings made out of fibers and seeds and musical instruments like violin, drums, flutes besides pottery, spears and other decorative objects. The creation of the town happened due to the migration of families moving from Puyo in 1970 looking for jobs in Oil companies.

Local people are dedicated to agriculture growing products like sugar cane and cacao… Cacao production and export first started to become a significant contributor to Ecuador’s economy in 1780, when Ecuador was still part of the colonial Real Audiencia de Quito. he late 19th century saw the beginning of the so- called cacao boom, with exportations rising from 372,433 quintals in 1880 to 578,626 quintals in 1899. In 1895, there were 58.6 million cacao trees in Ecuador. Ten years later, 80 million of these plants could be found in the country.26

On the other side, sugar cane was an important export crop in the 1960s and 1970s, but production levels dropped in the 1980s, and the supply could not satisfy the domestic market, so that Ecuador had to import refined sugar. Almost all of the sugarcane grown in the Costa was used to make centrifugal sugar, so called because of the means of extracting the sugar. Centrifugal sugar was the type most used in foreign trade.

The next city is Lago Agrio, in 1967 the extraction of oil officially started, the place where the city is now a day, was the place for the oil dwell, in the beginning was named “Source Lake” but for unknown reasons, it was changed to “Sour Lake” probably because of the harsh conditions of working and living here.In the current days, Lago Agrio is one of the most developed cities in Sucumbios Province there is a good offer of touristic facilities with hotels, restaurants, tour operators, transportation, airport and more.

25 Chevron in Ecuador History. Review: 16 mayo 2017 in: / http://www.texaco.com/ecuador/en/history/ 26 The boom of the cacao: Review: 16 mayo 2017 in: / http://soleq.travel/ecuadorian-cacao/ 31

Lago Agrio is also the meeting point for tours that go to Cuyabeno Reserve, it is a protected zone since 26 July 1979 with an area of 603.380 square kilometres. One of the principal objectives of the Cuyabeno Reserve is ongoing conservation of the Amazonian ecosystem- the most complex ecosystem in the world, which is also the second largest reserve of the 51national parks and protected areas in Ecuador.27

It is located in the Putumayo Canton in the Sucumbíos Province and in the Aguarico Canton in the Orellana Province. The elevation gently slopes from about 300 meters to slightly under 200 m above sea level.The area encompasses a poorly drained plain with a network of periodically inundated forests, lakes and creeks. Such conditions are rare so close to the Andes, where the drainage in the foothills prevents the development of swamps and lakes. Given its proximity to the mountains, combined with a slightly cooler and wetter climate it may be expected to have a partly different species composition than other areas in the upper Amazon watershed.

This reserve is a complex of rivers, lagoons, and floating forest. This protected area is characterized by its high biodiversity and interrelationships between the species inhabiting the area. The Reserve’s geomorphology is a consequence of the rivers carrying sediment and materials from the Andes, principally by the Aguarico River.

The huge volume of water cascading down from the mountains maintains the naturally high water levels ensuring that the river is navigable all year round. In the Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve there are more than 10 monkey species, 500 bird spices, and an incredible record of 307 species of tree per hectare. There are two seasons, dry and rainy. The entrance is by fluvial (river) transport and is offered by the local communities with the coordination of the lodge and a highly trained, accredited guide.28

Going on we reach Shushufinfi, the name comes from the Cofan language Shushu that means pecari and Findi that means hummingbird, the interpretation of the name is for the beauty of fur and feathers that are useful for decoration.

Traditionally, this land was home for different indigenous groups: Tetetes, Umaguas, Cofanes, Sionas, Secoyas and the latest Kichwas and Shuaras.

27 Reserva de producen faunistica Cuyabeno: Review: 07 mayo 2017 in / http://web.ambiente.gob.ec/?q=node/59 28 Cuyabeno Lodge: Review: 07 mayo 2017 in / www.cuyabenolodge.com/amazon 32

Shushufindi was stablished has a parrish in 1969 but it was officially recognized in 1977 and in 1984 became Canton.29

Talking about indigenous groups we can mention important facts about: Cofanes, they moved down from the foothills of the Andes Mountains to inhabit a large territory between the Aguarico River in the northern Ecuadorian Amazon and the Guamués River in southern Colombia. It is estimated that the Cofán numbered between 15,000 and 20,000 people before the arrival of the Spanish conquistadors. A brutal history of conquest, abuse, and disease followed.

The invasion of the extractive industry, colonization, and forced religious conversion took its toll on the Cofán, and they now number approximately 2,100 people living in a significantly reduced territory. Oil extraction has contaminated much of the Cofán’s lands and rivers, and oil-related health problems are prevalent in Cofán communities, particularly in Dureno, Duvuno, and Sinangüé y Chandía Na’en. The Cofán have been inspiring protagonists in the 20-year legal battle against Chevron, yet they continue to suffer from the devastating contamination in their communities, most significantly the lack of clean water.

Secoya people traditionally inhabited a very large territory between the Putumayo and Napo rivers in Ecuador, Colombia, and Peru. They are renowned for their shamanic acumen and knowledge of medicinal plants. Their language, Pai’koka, is part of the Western Tucanoan language group.

Missionary activity, rubber extraction, colonization, palm oil production, and petroleum activity have reduced Secoya territory to less than 30,000 hectares in Sucumbíos Province in Ecuador—a tiny fraction of their ancestral territory. The Secoya now number around 600 people in Ecuador and around 900 in Peru.

In Ecuador, the Secoya are concentrated in three communities along the Aguarico River: San Pablo de Katetsiaya, Siecoya Remolino Ñe’ñena and Eno. The Secoya suffer heavily from oil-related contamination. Rivers have been contaminated, making much of the water unsafe to bathe in or drink. The Secoya can no longer subsist solely on traditional activities like hunting, fishing, and growing edible crops. As a result, African palm production and oil extraction have a strong influence in the communities, rapidly degrading the remaining portion of rainforest the Secoya call home.

29 Sucumbios y sus Cantones : Review: 16 mayo 2017 in: / http://www.sucumbios.gob.ec/index.php/2015

The Siona people have often been paired with their Secoya relatives. Although formerly considered one ethnic group, the “Secoya-Siona,” the Siona and Secoya are increasingly affirming their independent identities.

The Siona live in the territories of modern Colombia and Ecuador. In Ecuador, they are settled in the province of Sucumbios, in the cantons of Putumayo, and Shushufindi. Their population numbers approximately 400 people sparsely settled in several communities, including Puerto Bolivar, Sottosiaya, Bi’aña, Aboquehuira, and Orahuëaya, amongst others.

Siona territory borders that of the Secoya people, with whom they share a common language and ancestry. Like the Secoya, the Siona currently suffer from the effects of oil contamination, African palm production, deforestation, and expanding colonist settlement in their territory.30 Through our trip we have the chance to see at the distance tributaries of the most important rivers: Aguarico, San Miguel, El Eno, El Conejo, Dureno, Teteye.

On the left hand side you can see The Gran Hotel del Lago, where we are staying overnight, recently inaugurated on February 2017, is part of a chain of 5 stars hotels that have the same name. The installations offer modern accommodation with facilities such as swimming pool, jacuzzi, gym, SPA. Was stablished mainly to receive the corporative visitors attracted by oil companies.

Finally, we arrive to Limoncocha one of the most important Wetlands, habit of the endangered Black caiman and a myriad of birds that live in this reach ecoystem.

30 COFAN; SIONA; SECOYA, meet the indigenous nationalities: Review: 16 mayo 2017 in / http://giveclearwater.org/indigenous-nationalities

6. OPERATING ROUTE ADJUSTMENTS We had three options; the option one “Discovering Wetlands in the North East of Ecuador – Sucumbios Province” was designated by: Lic Raul Miranda the Tutor of this work, because it had the best conditions and alternatives visiting areas from High Lands to Low Lands like:

 Páramo Forest: Visiting Cayambe Coca National Park, being part Ramsar, with a great view of Polilepies forest, good possibilities to find spectacle bear, white-tailed Deer, Andean Condor.

 Tempered Forest: Visiting Guango Lodge, beautiful private Lodge, great place for hummingbird and views of the Papallacta River.

 Cloud Forest: San Rafael Waterfalls are part of this beautiful habitat, full of epiphytes, fern trees, orchids, and birds.

 Amazon Rain Forest: Amazing place with the highest biodiversity in the world. We will visit this area taking a boat ride trip at Limoncoocha Biodiversity Reserve, looking for monkeys, bird, caimans, plants. etc.

The idea was to enjoy the places and arriving to the Hotel or Lodge at good time, to rest after the long drive and after dinner to have night walk, for that reason we had to chance some places. The first chance that we had was, box breakfast at Papallacta Pass for breakfast in Guango Lodge, and lunch in Baeza Town for lunch in Reventador Lodge, in this way We save a lot of time to arrive around 6pm to the Lodge.

We tried to take a flight to Lago Agrio, but the fly was leaving late from Quito 10.10 am, for that reason we took the shorter and nicer rout; which is Quito- Baeza-Lago Agrio- Shushufini-Limoncocha instead of Quito-Baeza-Coca- Shushufindi which is very nice too, but faster.

Another chance was to stay at Gran Hotel del Lago, which provides good lodging and services although it is bit far from the main attraction. instead of Limoncocha Hostal which is on the border of the Lagoon but the lodging and services are not the best.

7. CONCLUSIONS 7.1. Every new route in Ecuador is a challenge, it is full of wildlife, nice people, cultures, amazing landscapes, a great country to learn new things and a great country to spend your time. 7.2. The rangers are much better informed, at present after chek in, we asked regular questions, and they gave us good information like: where can we go, how are the conditions of the trails, where they have seen the spectacled bear, etc. This is fundamental information when visiting protected areas. 7.3. This kind of work really helped us, to understand much better how the travel agency, the guides, the providers work together to offer good experiences to the visitors, because in this case the work that we the student had to do, was not just guiding.

8. RECOMMENDATIONS 8.1. This is a very nice theme to develop “Wetlands of Sucumbios Province”; but the University UDET, should consider that this trip is too long to do it in two days one night, even taking a flight, because just one way takes over 6 hours non- stops, and the fligths are leaving late from Quito 10.10 am the earliest one; and the trip will be exhausting for the visitors. Two night would be a better option. 8.2. To get into National Parks and Protected Reserves, everybody should have to pay; and with that money the Ministry could have an adequate budget to organize courses or campaigns to explain what we can do protect the wildlife and these beautiful places 8.3. The lodging in Limoncocha town, which is the closest town is the Reserve, must improve service, because they are basic; and there are people that would like to have a good night’s sleep. If they can offer nice lodging and services, for sure more people will stay there, and more people can visit the Reserve. 8.4. The universities that are located around the Biological Reserve, should be more open to the public, having information to the visitor similar to the Ministry. The information can be more scientific, in Spanish, English and German, so local people and visitors can understand the environment of the Reserve.

9. ANNEXES

Figura 12: Brochure of the trip, Luna Jorge (2017)

9.1. TOUR EXPERIENCE The group of visitors was conformed by three french visitors, Mrs. Sylvia Herrera, Mr. Cesar Caguango Collahuazo, Mr. Raul Miranda. Driving the vehicle Mr. Marco Padilla and guiding Mr. Jorge Luna.

Figura 13: Paramo Ecosystem, photo taken by, Castro Marco (2017) From the beginning, we had a lot of expectations and we were willing to try new experiences, the weather was good since the morning. Our departure was Quito towards the North East Mountain Rage, we had the chance to see the first two Volcanoes, Cotopaxi and Antisana; after crossing a patch of paramo ecosystem, we could see the majesty of Antisana Volcano.

Figura 14. Antenas de Papallacrta 4.200m, photo taken by. Luna Jorge (2017)

When we arrive to the 4.400 meters, the highest point of our trip we could see the beauty of Andes in an area well known like “Las Antenas”. The altitude allowed us to see Antisana, Cotopaxi, Pasochoa, Sumaco, Pichincha volcanoes, is not always as clear as that day, a wonderful morning.

Figura 15: San Rafael Waterfalls, photo taken by, Castro Marco (2017)

Passing vegetation to Temperate Forest in lower elevation, we reach Guango Lodge for a tasty breakfast. For European visitors was the chance to see an endemic family of America, hummingbirds. They took pictures and video trying to catch the motion of these unreal creatures. Driving through the cloud forest we reach San Rafael entrance that is part of the Cayambe-Coca Reserve; taking advantage of the good weather we took a walk to the lookout point where we were delighted by the foothill forest and one of the best views of the waterfall even with a rainbow crossing it. Also, one of the most representative species, Cock of the Rock, was extremely close and with its stunning orange colour, was a bonus. On our way back we saw black agouti and two groups of woolly monkeys playing with their babies up in the canopy. Lunch was at El Reventador Lodge, tilapia was the main course, something typical from the area. After three hours of driving, we checked in Gran Hotel del Lago, this place with all its facilities gave us the chance to relax before our nocturnal walk. From the Hotel we had 30 minutes of driving to arrive to Limoncocha, the sky was clear and full of stars, we met Freddy Grefa, our native guide for the motor canoe ride.

Figura16: Gran Hotel del Lago, photo taken by, Luna Jorge (2017) We saw four Black caimans, one of them a female that was nesting, very close, Raul took great pictures. After a short visit to Limoncocha we drive back to the Hotel for dinner. The options were pork and chicken and red wine. After a long journey we were ready for resting and recover energies for the next day.

Figura 17: Amazon Rain Forest, photo taken by, Luna Jorge(2015)

We start early at 6am, drive back to Limoncocha for birding from the canoe. There was the chance to take some pictures through the telescope of the unique Hoatzin and some aquatic birds like Jacana, Egrets and some others species like squirrel and howler monkeys.

Figura 18: Limoncocha Biological Reserve, photo taken by, Miranda Ruben (2017)

Figura 19: Purple Gallinule, photo taken by, Luna Jorge (2017)

We stayed until 8am and drive back to the Hotel for breakfast, after that we start our way back and stop at Guango Lodge, back to high altitude we enjoyed o zucchini soup and the traditional llapingachos. In the afternoon we arrive to Quito, driver was careful and the group was full of energy.

9.2. COMENTARY This was a challenging trip to me, discovering new destinations, my goal was to cover the visitor’s expectations and after all it was a great experience, we could see the biodiversity of the east side of the country starting from 2.850m arisen to 4.400 meters and ending up 1.400 m; in one of the most remarkable wetlands; Limoncocha with views of birds, caimans, monkeys, agouties and myriads of plants. All this experience enjoying good food, beautiful landscape, and relaxing in a nice hotel.

9.3. INVITATION We would like to invite you to this great destination Limoncocha, that doesn’t have a lot of publicity in the Amazon basin, but is open for everybody and full of attractions to cover all the expectations. We would like to share all the providers that have assist us during this trip, due to we consider that their service is good.

 Hosteria Reventador Jose Amaguay 0993577143

 Guia Nativo Limoncocha Freddy Grefa 0969659126

 Guango Lodge Irene Bustamante 0999246899

 Gran Hotel del Lago Shushufindi 063700770

 Transporte Turistico Nanegalitour 0994582030

10. BIBLIOGRAPHY

 Robert S. Ridgely & Paul J. Grenfield (2001). The Birds of Ecuador, New York, USA, Cornell University Press.

 Lola Vázquez S. & Napoleón Saltos G. (2010). Ecuador su Realidad, Quito,Ecuador. Fundación Peralta.

 Lisa J. Amstutz (2011). Rain Forest Animal Adaptation, Chicago.USA. Capszone Press.

 John Kricher (1999). A Neotropical Companion, New Jersey, USA. Pricenton University Press.

 Leandro Harol Pantoja C. (E) & Gustavo Zuñiga E (E). (2007). New Grand Chicago Universal Dictionaty. Bogota, Colombia

11. INTERNET REFERNECE

 Diego G. Tirira & Santiago F. Burmeo (2011). Libro Rojo de Aves Mamíferos del Ecuador. Review: 16 mayo 2016, en: http://librorojo.mamiferosdelecuador.com/home.html

 Fabian Siguenza C. & Ronald Silva P. (2007). Petróleo ecuatoriano y su incidencia en la Economía. Review: 16 mayo 2016, en: http://cdjbv.ucuenca.edu.ec/ebooks/teco626.pdf

 Ramsar, Wetlands. (2014) Review; 15 mayo 2017, in: http://www.ramsar.org/sites-countries/the-ramsar-sites

 Ran Rafael Waterfalls. (s.a). Review; 15 mayo 2017, in: https://www.ecostravel.com/en/ecuador/new-wonders-ecuador/san- rafael-waterfall.php

 National Parks & Protected Areas. (2006). Review; 15 mayo 2017, in: http://www.hipecuador.com/html/ecuador/national_parks/limoncocha_ biological_reserve03.htm

 Inside de Amazon. (2017). Review; 16 mayo 2017, in http://wwf.panda.org/what_we_do/where_we_work/amazon/about_the _amazon/

 Bloques Petroleros en Ecuador. (s.a). Review; 16 mayo 2017, in: http://www.secretariahidrocarburos.gob.ec/mapa-de-bloques- petroleros/

12. INTERVIEWS

 Interview to Eng. Andrea Molina. Guide in South America and Operator in the Amazon Rain Forest in Ecuador.

 Interview to Mr. Patricio Cerda. Local Guide of Limoncocha Biological Reserve.

 Interview to Mr. Richard Parsons. Guide and ower of Bellavista Cloud Forest.

 Conversation with Mrs. Mercedes Rivadeneira, Gerente General of Neblina Forest, and ex Manager of La Selva Lodge.

 Conversation with Mr. Jose Illanes, Native Guide of Sucumbios Province.