The T+L Guide To
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THE T+L GUIDE TO A visual tasting note for Jean-Louis Ermitage Cuvée Cathelin 2003, by Sarah Heller: "dense; chalky tannins; dried black fig; finishes with brightness." Drin k s Thirsty? No need for that with next-gen tipples in Singapore, the team of top N BY SARAH HELLER O I Bangkok barkeeps, the coolest spots in Taipei and new-look wine-tasting notes. Oh, you can also stir things up in Hokkaido and Saigon, and country-hop for ILLUSTRAT stellar craft beers or fresh mixes from some of Asia’s best female bartenders. TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / JULY 2019 53 GUIDE DRINKS THESE DAYS, IT'S hard to distinguish MADAME FAN BAR few kitchen shenanigans up his between a bar and a chem lab. Move Border-jumping tipples and nibbles sleeve. Think sous-vide, reductions, over infusing: techniques such as fat with an Oriental twist is the mission carbonations and original syrups, washing, milk washing and smoking statement from Italian-Filipino all of which translate to heady blends are increasingly common to imbue mixologist eye-candy Davide such as the Sugarloaf, where drinks with more layered profiles. Boncimino. Shoot for the unorthodox pineapple rum, cognac, house- Rotary evaporators have practically (Not) Classic PBJ concocted from fermented pineapple skin tepache, become standard equipment—even peanut butter fat–washed tamarind, lime and palm sugar are though they cost anywhere between Glenfiddich whisky and caramelized mixed together and the final result S$8,000 and S$20,000. Bartender- kumquat liqueur, which comes with garnished with a mini taco rolled owner Kamil Foltan of IB HQ, for a bamboo tray of three smoked from pineapple skin and pickled one, only broke even on the price of chocolate-coated macadamia nuts watermelon rind. Whew. idlewild.sg; his rotavap, including staff, utility and chili puree. madamefan.sg; cocktails from S$22. and ingredient costs, after about cocktails from S$22. 1,500 drinks. But, we assure you, his MO BAR next-level innovations are worth it. SMOKE & MIRRORS Mandarin Oriental Singapore’s With more mad scientists investing What you see is not what you get at sophisticated bar has a beguiling in toys like bee smokers and sonic this rooftop bar with smashing cocktail list inspired by the flavors wave machines, now is the best time sunset skyline views. New head and cultures in Southeast Asia, the to have your drink and eat it, too. bartender Jorge Conde conjures up Pacific Ocean and the Coral Sea. RORS; flavor illusions such as a clear Liquid treasures in bar manager R I SINGAPORE JAM AT SIRI HOUSE Bloody Mary and his weirdly Michele Mariotti’s experimental Sour-cream potato chips, sesame oil delicious Dali’s Self Portrait, which chest include a barrel-aged water and burnt butter are just some of the completely befuddles your mind and herb cognac in-house concoction MOLECULAR homey ingredients lending their about the typical Manhattan, as he called Rough Waters by the Coral whiffs to the cocktail list of JAM makes his twist on it with smoky- Sea, topped with an edible coral restaurant and bar in chichi bacon fat, artichoke and swirls of garnish that is dotted with mild red- GASTRONOMY Dempsey’s lifestyle space Siri House. rosemary smoke added to a pepper sauce. In the 7,000 Leagues Head bartender Kavinn Raaj vermouth and whiskey base. Come Ahead is the unlikely scientific mix IN A GLASS recreates a refined yet fun home- when you’re feeling particularly of gin and oils from kaffir lime skin dining atmosphere with delish food- adventurous. smokeandmirrors.com. using a sonic-wave machine that From saucy to wacky, cleverly concocted Q B H results in a highly concentrated cocktails are bringing kitchen techniques behind I and-drinks combos such as the sg; cocktails from S$20. the bar. Grace Ma filters and distills Singapore’s Spudni, a blend of gin and house- version of the light and zesty gimlet. tastiest new tipples. BAR; COURTESY OF B BAR; COURTESY OF SMOKE & M made sour-cream liqueur—the B baR mandarinoriental.com; cocktails MO latter a mix of vodka, sour cream Don’t let this bar’s western outskirts from S$24. and sugar—that is topped with three address nor its hidden location in the wee cubes of onion chutney jelly wine-and-spirits section of a SKAI BAR HOUSE; COURTESY OF I R balancing on a rice crisp. sirihouse. supermarket deter your hunt for it. On the 70th floor of Swissotel, The I com.sg; cocktails from S$15. From toasted sesame seeds in honey Stamford, the heights that offer lining the glass of a Beehive to a bee killer views act as a metaphor for the IB HQ smoker sending delicate sandalwood theme of elevation that divides the Industry veteran Kamil Foltan and wafts into the Rhubino cocktail with 12-cocktail menu into the categories his wife Zurina Bryant run this lab- tart rhubarb notes, bar manager of sea, rainforest, high desert and bar on the upper floor of a shophouse, Anton Gornev pulls out all the stops alpine. Salty sips Samphire and D; COURTESY OF JAM S AT L I spinning odd, local ingredients such to deliver drinks ranging from low Buckthorn Cliff change to fruity and LEW as curry leaves, bananas and to high ABV, depending on your herbal gems such as The Shaman D I jackfruits into brilliantly balanced mood for the night. instagram.com/ (which has curious earthy drinks that leave a lingering, often bbar_sg; cocktails from S$18. undertones from house-made unforgettable, aftertaste. Go sweet- shiitake syrup) before giving way to and-spicy with the Maharaja, or be a IDLEWILD thirst quenchers such as the Desert E FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY OF MADAME FAN BAR; COURTESY OF S daredevil with the Pi Pa, which was Fly high in this live-music bar Rose and ending on a herbaceous I BAR; COURTESY OF I inspired by cold parsnip-and- decorated with golden-age-of-travel high in drinks such as Rolling Stone, pineapple soup. Their house-made paraphernalia, including a cabinet of where rye whiskey is blended with bottled cordials are available for curiosities featuring rare and exotic an Austrian Amaro that has been T I purchase, too. ibhqsingapore.com; spirits (go ahead, ask for a tasting sous-vided with fragrant wild OPPOS E, CLOCKW COURTESY OF SKA cocktails from S$24. shot). Bartender Andy Griffiths has a thyme. skai.sg; cocktails from S$25. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: M adame Fan Bar's (Not) Classic PBJ comes with snacks; Michele Mariotti experiments at MO Bar; the Beehive cocktail at ultra-hidden b bar; the head bartender of Smoke & Mirrors, Jorge Conde; a nori cocktail called Sea Level on the 70th-floor SKAI Bar; settle into throwback seating at Idlewild; head bartender Kavinn Raaj elevates homey to haute at JAM at Siri House; snap peas garnish IB HQ's Snap That. TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / JULY 2019 55 ARRON GRENDON GUIDE DRINKS PaRADEE Bar Manager SAHATHANASOMBOON TROPIC CITY (BELL) SUPAWIT PIND SU A PAROM MALAKUL PONGPROM Assistant Group Bar Manager MUTTARATTANA (LEO) (ANn) VESPER (PaLM) Senior Bartender Group Bar Manager Head Bartender BACKSTAGE cocKTAIL bar DA NNY YEUNG VESPER THE BAMBOO bar jamIE RHIND Head Bartender DAE S K A Bar Operations Manager SmaLLS THIANTHONG Da VID jaCObsON THE bamboo bar (KENNY) Founder Senior Bartender SmaLLS VESPER T he gang gathered at Tropic City, in the ever-hipper Charoenkrung neighborhood. BANGKOK SUWINCHA P HILIP SINGSUWAN N OPPASATE NKI S HIRUNWATHIT TOP OF THEIR GAME STEfaNESCU (CHACHA) ANUmaN- S I EBAST AN (DEPp) T his year, seven Bangkok watering holes made it onto the Co-Founder Head Bartender RAJADHON DE LA CRUZ Senior Bartender Asia's 50 Best Bars list. Credit these guys and gals for the TROPIC CITY RABBIT hoLE great drinks, good vibes and all-important je ne sais quoi. Founder Co-Founder RABBIT hoLE TEENS OF THAILAND TROPIC CITY M IX LIKE A PRO Bar: BACKSTAGE Bar: THE BAMBOO BAR Bar: RAB IT HOLE Bar: SMALLS Bar: TEENS OF THAILAND Bar: TROPIC CITY Bar: VESPER Drink: FORGETFUL PAINTER Drink: HAWKER Drink: CRY ME TO THE MOON Drink: LUCID DREAMS Drink: GUAVA-SALTY PLUM GT Drink: TROPIC THUNDER Drink: SPATIAL CONCEPT • Vodka infused with chamomile • Coconut fat–washed tequila, • White-truffle fat–washed gin, • La Maison Fontaine Blanche, Macerate guava with salty • Jerk spice–infused Appleton • Campari, 30ml tea, 45ml 45ml 45ml 20ml plum, then infuse it with gin. Reserve Rum, 40ml • Clarified milk punch with SECRET RECIPES • Passionfruit juice, 20ml • Lemongrass syrup, 20ml • Apple juice, 45ml • Martini Bianco, 20ml • Special guava plum gin, 50ml • Plantation OFTD Overproof espresso, vermouth and gin, We persuaded the bars • Pineapple juice, 20ml • Lime juice, 15ml • Homemade pandan syrup, 15ml • Punt E Mes, 20ml • Dash of fresh lime Rum, 10ml 60ml to let you (try to) • Lime juice, 20ml • Coriander bitters, 4 dashes • Citric solution, 10ml • Homemade grenadine, 10ml • Guava slice for garnish • Falernum, 15ml vesperbar.co • Maple-and-caramel syrup, 10ml • Kaffir lime leaves, 2 rabbitholebkk.com • Lemon juice, 15ml Topped with Mediterranean tonic. • Ginger syrup, 20ml recreate their winning • Absinthe, 2 dashes Shaken and topped with ginger SANTOSAARON JOEL • Kaffir lime leaf fb.com/teensofthailand • Pineapple juice, 25ml tastes at home. • Egg whites, 15ml beer. Topped with tonic. • Lime juice, 25ml fb.com/backstagecocktailbarbkk mandarinoriental.com/bangkok fb.com/smallsbkk Shaken and topped with soda and Angostura bitters. tropiccitybkk.com GUIDE DRINKS ST AFF ONLY CLUB Heading for the tiny DRAFT LAND CÉ La VI Like most speakeasies worth their kitchen of Room by Le “We make cocktails for people who With last year’s completion of Nan Kief.