Follow us on NEWSLETTER FAR HORIZONS ARCHAEOLOGICAL & CULTURAL TRIPS Volume 18, Number 2 • Fall 2013 Published Erratically by Far Horizons • P.O. Box 2546 • San Anselmo, CA 94979 USA

(800) 552-4575 • (415) 482-8400 • fax (415) 482-8495 • www.farhorizons.com • email: [email protected]

Dear Travelers, FEATURED As the August moon waxes in the Buddhist month of Esala, the Perahera, JOURNEYS the largest and most colorful festival in Asia, takes over the medieval royal city Burma (Myanmar) of in . For a week, the processions include fire jugglers swinging December 1 - 19, 2014 flaming torches, lively acrobats, a cacoph - Enjoy the Land of the Golden Pagodas in Yangon; ony of percussionists pounding traditional Bagan, where more than two thousand spires rise above drums, almost 5,000 dancers clanging the horizon; ancient Mrauk-U; and the bustling, vibrant finger cymbals, musicians, whip crackers, city of Mandalay. Burma’s prodigious number of temples torch bearers, and as many as 100 wildly is the perfect symbol of a country in which Buddhism adorned elephants (think flashing lights pervades every aspect of life. Along the way, revel in not and velvet, bejeweled garments!) . The just the fascinating history but the hospitality of the tradition dates back to about 300 B.C. and Burmese people, including those in the many villages is intended to invoke the blessings of the around Inle Lake. gods for rain, fertility, successful crops and good health. I was there last month Iran with a group! What a flamboyant and jubilant event…never to be forgotten. April 9 - 25, 2014 And, although there are few tourists to be seen, Sri Lanka has so much more to Embrace the cultural diversity of Iran and follow the offer. This lovely island’s fascinating history spans at least three thousand years path of the author of the first human rights charter, and the magnificent remains of each civilization are stunning, including six Cyrus the Great, to his powerful Achmaenid dynasty UNESCO World Heritage Cultural Sites – ’s Old City; Kandy; the Buddhist sites of Pasargad and Persepolis. Waves of invaders mural paintings in the caves at ; the medieval capital of ; throughout the country's long history – the Greeks founded in the 4th century B.C.; and with its exquisite accompanying Alexander, Arab armies, the Turkish tribes paintings. This isle also has lush rain forests, verdant tea plantations, and that forced their way westward from Central Asia, and remarkable wildlife of which 22% is found only here. Certainly, one of the high - finally the Mongols – all left their mark upon the people lights for me was viewing The Gathering, where in the evening huge herds of of Persia, creating a vibrant tapestry that at its core, elephants, along with their adorable playful calves, come down to the edge of is indelibly today’s Iran. While traveling from Isfahan to a lake to graze. What a sight! Shiraz to Yazd, witness the unforgettable remains left by previous empires. As I hope you have noticed, we are adding more ‘history’ themed trips, and two new ones have been added to our 2014 calendar. In the Path of Genghiz Khan follows the story of this great man and his descendants through Mongolia and China as they created the largest empire in history. The trip will be led by The Great Courses (The Teaching Company) lecturer, Andrew Wilson, an award- winning professor and an expert in both military and Asian history. In the Path Egyptologist and of the Frankincense Trail traverses the peaceful country of Oman, located on the Great Courses Scholar, Indian Ocean and long a trading route. I’ll remind you to also look at our In the Path of the Crusader Knights that travels through Cyprus, Rhodes and Malta, Dr. Bob Brier , along with In the Path of the Olmec traversing the remote areas of Mexico. now has a website - I hope you enjoy our latest newsletter and will pass it along to friends. And keep http://drbobbrier.com - watching our blog as we post interesting tidbits on the latest archaeological and where you can learn about historic discoveries along with tales from our travelers. his latest publications, his lecture schedule, Happy travels, and the trips he leads for Far Horizons. You will also find him on Facebook - Mary Dell Lucas https://www.facebook.com/DrBobBrier Founding Director Zeugma: A Tale of Two Destructions

By Professor Jennifer Tobin

In the year 2000 an international team of archaeologists answered a call. The ancient Graeco-Roman city of Zeugma, which once straddled the Euphrates River in what is now Turkey, was in peril. The Turkish government planned to install a dam across the mighty Euphrates, bringing more reliable electricity and water to this desolate region, but also creating a lake that would submerge the ruins of Zeugma. For four months the excavators worked tirelessly, trying to learn as much about the city as possible before it was Travel with Professor Jennifer Tobin immersed in water. As the reservoir level rose they on Eastern Turkey’s Lost Kingdoms, uncovered remarkable villas, outfitted with sumptuous May 17 - June 1, 2014. mosaics and gorgeous wall paintings. These were lifted and taken to the city of Gaziantep, where they can now be seen in a new museum. dining rooms for the elite were subdivided with makeshift walls to create barracks. Wall paintings were defaced by The archaeologists also uncovered vivid evidence for the graffiti, scratched by idle soldiers nervously awaiting the destruction of the city in antiquity. Zeugma stood on the Persian invasion. When it came, it came swiftly. Dishes of eastern edge of the Roman Empire, a stone’s throw from food were found abandoned as the Roman soldiers raced to Rome’s greatest enemy, the Sassanian Persians. In the meet the Persian attack. But the Roman army was defeated, 250’s AD the Sassanians swept deep into Roman territory, the soldiers killed or taken prisoner, and Zeugma was burned. destroying cities in their path. One of these was Zeugma. The excavations revealed deep layers of burning evidence Destroyed first by fire and then, recently by water, the city of that the whole city had been engulfed in fire. An analysis of Zeugma has suffered greatly. However, one could argue that the finds buried in the wreckage reveals that the civilian if the dam had not been constructed, we would never have inhabitants of Zeugma had fled before the destruction, and learned Zeugma’s story – it would have been one of the many the city had been turned over to the Roman army. Rooms ancient cities in Turkey waiting to be excavated. The good with fine mosaic floors were transformed into granaries to news is that the reservoir only covers one third of Zeugma – feed the troops. Colonnaded courtyards that once served as much lies safely underground awaiting future research.

2 • www.farhorizons.com Dear Traveler, The great Italian scholar Carlo Conti Rossini, one of very few explorers traveling in Africa at the beginning of 1900, described Ethiopia as an “incredible mosaic of cultures”. And it is very true. Probably no country in the world has the diversity of landscape, people, and cultures that you will see in Ethiopia. I have the fortune of being the scholar on our Far Horizons Ethiopia trip. I have been in Ethiopia many times and I do archaeological work there. But we will talk about me later. This is about you and the beautiful adventure that you are about to embark on. Traveling through the Omo Valley you will experience the amazing beauty of its wildlife and the fascination of the many tribes that still inhabit the region. And you will see a dramatic change in both landscape and people when we will be traveling north, through the archaeologi - cal and historical route that represents such an important piece of Ethiopian history. We will start with Aksum, the splendid capital Discover of the ancient Aksumite kingdom that became powerful by trading gold and precious stones with pharaonic Egypt and the Rome of the Caesars, and that is believed to house the Ark of Ethiopia the Covenant, the real one… We will see Lalibela, home to massive monolithic churches that eleventh century masons carved into solid mountainsides; the Lake Tana, with its atmos - pheric monasteries; and Gondar where we will Travel with Dr. Cinzia Perlingieri walk through hallways and courtyards of on Ethiopia: The Wonders of the medieval palaces where kings, courtiers, and Horn of Africa, April 12 - 26, 2014. early Portuguese explorers plotted royal intrigues... Usually this is the point when our local guide and I take over the dance floor of the main ballroom for an improvised traditional Ethiopian dancing performance. And while we are at it… We will take a trip to the Semien National Park to see the highest mountains in Africa. An incredible formation of grassland plateaux separated by valleys and deep gorges, and rising to high pinnacles populated by families of gelada baboons. A totally unique spectacle that you have never seen before if you have never been to Ethiopia. It will not be easy all the time. Sometimes we will get up early, we will walk long distances and drive on bumpy roads, and every now and then we will complain about the food! But I promise you that you will not regret a second spent on this trip. If you love to travel you will love to travel in Ethiopia and at the end, a little shaken, you will say “WOW! What a journey!” And I will be there to shake your hand, and tell you “You did it. It was a pleasure and an honor to travel with you. Till the next, somewhere…” Love, Cinzia

www.farhorizons.com • 3 TRAVELS with Professor Steven L. Tuck

By Professor Steven L. Tuck Crete and the Origins of Greek Art

The ancient Greeks identified Crete as the source of much of their art, architecture, and religion. Looking at a map of the eastern Mediterranean, Crete seems a natural crossroads between Greece and the advanced civilizations of Egypt and the Near East. Still, it is remarkable that the Greeks attributed Roman worlds throughout antiquity. When the modern exca - so many critical components of their culture to what they vator of the site, Sir Arthur Evans, began to dig there in 1900, viewed as a foreign land. To explore and transmit those he discovered what he decided was the palace of Minos. This lessons they used stories told and retold in Greek mythology. building was, at its height, constructed of over 1000 rooms, The Cretan Cycle of myths centers around the family of King many small, on no overall plan. It was easy to see where the Minos of Knossos and his architect/artist, Daedalus. The wife myth of the labyrinth had its start. In addition, the site was of Minos, punished by Poseidon, gave birth to a monstrous full of bull imagery. The famous Bull Leapers wall painting half bull, half man, the Minotaur. Daedalus, the father of all shows what may be a religious ritual in which young people Greek arts, created the labyrinth, to imprison the monster in a dance or perform acrobatics with a live bull. Large sets of bull great maze. Minos fed the monster with captives sent from horns, called by Evans “the Horns of Consecration”, were Athens every year. The Athenian hero, Theseus, eventually found around the site and even in wall paintings that showed slew the Minotaur and fled, aided and accompanied by the palace during a large religious gathering. The myths of Ariadne, daughter of Minos. Minos and Daedalus may have had a basis in reality. The association of Crete and especially Knossos with the Travel with Professor Steven L. Tuck on Greek Isles of Myth: Minotaur was powerful and spread across the Greek and Crete, Santorini, and the Cyclades, June 7 - 20, 2014. Paestum and the Origins of Gladiator Combat

The city of Paestum is famous for its three magnificently- categories of contests seen more than once are boxing and preserved Greek temples, some of the finest anywhere in the animal hunts. Both of these are known in Greek and later Mediterranean. Almost unknown, however, are the tombs Roman culture. The most remarkable images are of pairs of found around the site left by the mysterious Lucanians. The gladiators. In these paintings men, usually armored with Lucanians brought their burial practices with them, interring helmets and shields and sometimes body armor, face each their dead in stone underground tombs, the inside walls of other with a variety of weapons. The earliest of these, from which were plastered and painted. These magnificent the mid 4th century BC, shows a pair of armored gladiators paintings covering the tomb walls must have only been seen armed only with long pointed sticks. They thrust these at during the funeral after which the tomb was sealed with a each other to obvious effect as the blood runs freely from their stone roof and buried. wounded arms and legs. That blood seems to be the point as these illustrate the earliest form of gladiatorial combat, when Many of the paintings display events known from ancient it was performed only at funerals to provide a blood sacrifice funeral games, those athletic contests held in honor of the in honor of the deceased. There is some evidence that the dead known from Greek myths such as the Iliad where fights were carried out over the tomb or on a flat open space Achilles hosted a spectacular set of games for the dead Greek in front of it. Later examples of the gladiator paintings show warrior, Patroclus. Chariot races are shown repeatedly in the real spears replacing the sticks of the early ones to greater, tombs at Paestum, often sometimes fatal, damage to the combatants. In some paintings with key elements that a monstrous figure crouches behind the defeated gladiator make their context as to carry his soul to the underworld. These rare early wall funeral games clear. paintings provide unique evidence of funerary ritual and They may represent belief in the afterlife in ancient Italy. real chariot races or an idealized form of Travel with Professor Tuck on Rome and Southern Italy: games to further honor Including Pompeii, Herculaneum and Paestum, May 27 - the deceased. Other June 6, 2014. 4 • www.farhorizons.com Far Horizons Schedule of Trips All Dates and Prices Subject to Change • Revised 9/27/13 EUROPE & TURKEY Eastern Turkey's Lost Kingdoms From the mountains of eastern Anatolia, to the valleys of the Tigris and Euphrates, to the Cilician plain, through visiting temples, monasteries, and mosques, cities and castles, and the historic towns of the region, with only 13 others experience the history and culture of Eastern Turkey, truly a crossroad of civilizations. May 17 - June 1, 2014 with Professor Jennifer Tobin ...... $9,895.00 Let's to London co-sponsored with Humanities West Charles II was restored to the throne of England in 1660 and with his ascension, Restoration London erupted with creative vigor after decades of civil war. Travel with Far Horizons and Humanities West on a 9-day journey to uncover London’s glorious past and explore the city that invented the modern world. May 17 - 25, 2014 with Professor Robert Bucholz ...... $6,850.00+air Glorious Greece This 16-day journey through Greece explores both the celebrated and more remote remains of the many civilizations that have passed across this land. Spend three days in Athens, travel through the Peloponnese Peninsula, and end in the North with spectacular Delphi. May 24 - June 7, 2014 with Professor Thomas F. X. Noble ...... $9,495.00 Rome and Southern Italy In Rome explore the largest archaeological park in the world, a capital that was the center of the known world for centuries. Examine some of the chief elements of ancient Rome and its civilization at impressive monuments and museums before traveling south to the remarkable sites of Pompeii, Herculaneum and Paestum. May 27 - June 6, 2014 with Professor Steven L. Tuck ...... $8,995.00 + air Sicily: Art and Archaeology Circle this beautiful isle and learn about the rich history with visits to Agrigento, Villa Romana del Casale, Monreale, the fortified medieval village of Erice, the glorious temples at Selinunte, the perfect sanctuary at Segesta, the magnificent Norman Cathedral at Cefalù, and Taormina’s superb Roman amphitheater. All this and more! May 31 - June 14, 2014 with Professors Jeremy and Maud McInerney ...... $9,895.00 Cyprus, Bodrum, Rhodes and Malta: In the Path of the Crusader Knights After the fall of Jerusalem, the Knights of the Order of Saint John the Hospitaller sought refuge in the Kingdom of Cyprus, and then Rhodes. Two hundred years later, Suleiman’s forces drove the Knights from that island and they were then established on Malta where they fought pirates instead of the infidels. June 1 - 15, 2014 with Professor Brett Whalen ...... $9,995.00 Cathedrals of France Since the Christianization of Europe in the 4th century, cathedrals have served both as centers of ecclesiastical authority and marvels of architectural genius and innovation. Travel with Far Horizons to France as we explore the evolution of the Gothic cathedrals, both in Paris and the surrounding area. May 21 - 31, 2014 with Professor William R. Cook ...... $8,495.00 Greek Isles of Myth: Crete, Santorini and the Cyclades Explore the enchanting culture and rich history of the Greek Islands on this 14-day journey. Walk the grand halls of the Mycenaean center of Knossos. Visit the spectacular Minoan site of Akrotiri on Santorini. And embrace the culture of the Cycladic islands: Paros, Naxos, and Delos. June 8 - 21, 2014 with Professor Steven L. Tuck ...... $9,595.00 An Exploration of Wales and England Although Wales shares a close political and social history with the rest of Great Britain, the country has retained a distinct cultural identity. On this tour, we will explore the historical origins of this unique land as we visit the remnants of prehistoric, Roman, medieval and industrial sites in Wales and Western England. June 6 - 20, 2014 with Dr. James Bruhn ...... $8,695.00 + air The Archaeology of Ireland In the enchanted land of Éire, discover mythic fortresses, inspiring monasteries, and forgotten relics that stand as evidence of the astonishingly rich and varied story of this emerald isle. Visit both of the UNESCO World Heritage sites as well as unique sites like the Aran Islands and the Neolithic landscape of Céide Fields. July 5 - 20, 2014 with Dr. Enda O'Flaherty ...... $8,495.00 + air The Riches of Scotland From the English border to the Orkney Islands, enjoy many of the historic and archaeological sites that few visitors manage to find - prehistoric stone circles and chambered tombs, glorious abbeys and cathedrals, and medieval castles. August 2 - 17, 2014 with archaeologist Brian Buchanan ...... $8,495.00 + air Turkish Treasures With only thirteen others enjoy private tours of three of the most important archaeological projects in the eastern Mediterranean - Hattusha, capital of the Hittite Empire; Troy, and Ephesus. Also visit five of nine UNESCO World Heritage sites, and Sagalassos, Pergamum, Cappadocia, Assos, and much more. September 6 - 21, 2014 with Study Leader to be announced ...... $9,495.00 An Archaeological Pub Crawl of Great Britain Explore prehistoric stone circles and chambered tombs, walk in the footsteps of Roman armies along Hadrian's Wall, and savor the view from battlements of medieval castles in remote and beautiful areas of Britain - and rarely be far distant from a source of liquid replenishment. September 14 - 26, 2014 with Dr. James Bruhn ...... $7,995.00 + air Greece & Turkey: a Voyage through History Sail by private yacht with only eight others to the Greek Dodecanese Islands,scattered like tiny jewels through the azure waters of the Aegean Sea hugging the coast of Turkey. Explore Kos, Nisyros, Tilos, Simi, Rhodes, and learn about the thousands of years of history along the way. September 28 - October 11, 2014 with Professor Garrett Fagan ...... $9,295.00 THE MIDDLE EAST & ARABIA Iran: Empires of Everlasting Fire Embrace the cultural diversity of Iran! Follow the path of the author of the first human rights charter, Cyrus the Great, and his powerful Achmaenid dynasty at sites like Pasargad and Persepolis. Travel to Isfahan, Shiraz, and other sites, and witness the way in which previous empires have left their indelible mark. April 9 - 25, 2014 with Professor Lloyd John Llewellyn-Jones ...... $9,995.00 The Grandeur of Petra, The Splendors of Jordan Jordan has captivated travelers and conquerors alike with its beauty and mystery. View the celebrated mosaics of Madaba and prehistoric ‘Ain Ghazal where huge, unique statues were discovered. Finally, spend three days exploring the 2,500 year old Petra, full of amazing rock carved buildings. March 30 - April 12, 2014 with Professor Gary Rollefson ...... $8,295.00 Oman: In the Path of the Frankincense Trade See what may be the only ziggurat in Arabia, impressive fortress-castles that are reminders of Oman's unruly past, the 3000-year-old city of Ubar, recently found using NASA Satellite imagery, four UNESCO World Heritage sites - Aflaj irrigation systems, Bat tombs, Bahla Fort, and The Land of Frankincense. October 31 - November 14, 2014 with Professor John France ...... $8,995.00 + air Far Horizons Schedule of Trips All Dates and Prices Subject to Change • Revised 9/27/13

EGYPT AND AFRICA Sudan: An Exploration of Ancient Kush Travel through the deserts of northern Sudan where towering pyramids, gigantic mud-brick buildings, painted rock-cut tombs, and ornately carved temples await discovery. This is the land of Kush where, fed by the richness of the river, remarkable civilizations developed more than 4,000 years ago. January 18 - February 1, 2014 with Professor Bob Brier and art historian Patricia Remler ...... $9,995.00 + air Ethiopia: The Wonders of the Horn of Africa In its mountainous isolation Ethiopians developed a sophisticated culture based on a deep love of Christianity. Explore the fascinating remains of this culture, including the underground churches of Lalibela, join the colorful Easter celebrations in Axum, visit Gondar and Bahir Dar, and enjoy a boat ride on Lake Tana. April 12 - 26, 2014 with Dr. Cinzia Perlingieri ...... $9,495.00 The Majesty of Egypt Travel from Cairo to Luxor to Aswan to Abu Simbel, and experience awe-inspiring events as Far Horizons opens sites closed to the public - the richly-painted tombs of Seti I and Nefertari, the Red Pyramid and Sakkara's Unas Temple, and the burial chamber of the Great Pyramid. November 1 - 14, 2014 with Professor Bob Brier and art historian Patricia Remler ...... $11,995.00 INDIA, ASIA and CHINA Sri Lanka and the Perahera Festival Enjoy the festive processions honoring the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, and visit Anuradhapura, one of the ancient capitals of Sri Lanka; the Royal Palace in Polonnaruwa; Fortified Galle; the sacred city of Kandy, and Dambulla Cave Temple – all UNESCO World Heritage Sites. July 8 - 26, 2014 with Dr. Ruth Young ...... $9,995.00 Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan: A Journey through Central Asia Travel along the ageless Silk Road that for millennia was the link between the great civilizations of Europe and Asia. Follow in the footsteps of Alexander the Great, Genghiz Khan, Marco Polo, and Tamerlane. Experience Merv, Khiva, Bukhara, Samarkand – names that reverberate with compelling history. September 27 - October 17, 2014 with Study Leader to be announced ...... $9,995.00 China: Along the Silk Road See the renowned Mogao Caves' ornate Buddhist cave paintings, explore one of the world's oldest continuous markets in Kashgar, learn about the Uighur culture, and travel through the Taklamakan Desert by camel to see the earliest Buddhist pagoda in Khotan. Visit Turpan, Kuqa and Urumqi and so much more. October 9 - 26, 2014 with Dr. Jennifer Rose ...... $9,995.00 South India: Temples and Traditions Travel into an area of India which has managed to retain the essence of its mystique despite invasions both historical and modern. From Hampi to Karaikudi to Tanjore, the temples visited contain some of the greatest architectural and sculptural achievements in India. January 11 - 28, 2014 with Professor Daud Ali ...... $9,995.00 Angkor Wat and Laos An exciting 17-day trip through historically-rich Cambodia and Laos that includes the bustle of Phnom Penh and six full days at Angkor. In Laos, see Vat Phou, certainly one of the most spectacular of the Khmer cities, the World Heritage city of Luang Prabang and the capital, Vientiane. January 4 - 20, 2014 with Dr. Damian Evans ...... $9,995.00 Mongolia and China: In the Path of Genghis Khan Follow in the path of Genghiz Khan and the Great Khan’s family as they swept through Mongolia, China and beyond creating what became the largest empire in history. October 10 - 28, 2014 with Professor Andrew Wilson ...... $9,895.00 Burma (Myanmar) Enjoy the Land of the Golden Pagodas. In Yangon, the Shwedagon Pagoda is covered with 30 tons of gold. In Bagan more than two thousand spires rise above the horizon. Spend two weeks enjoying not just the fascinating history but the hospitality of the Burmese people. December 1 - 19, 2014 with Dr. Charlotte Galloway ...... $8,395.00 + air OCEANIA Chile and Easter Island's Tapati Festival Explore Easter Island's immense stone statues, perplexing petroglyphs, and vibrant cave paintings. The trip is timed to include the wonderful Tapati Festival, a time of revelry and feasts and of honoring the culture - both past and present. Also including three days exploring Santiago, Chile and nearby coastal towns. January 29 - February 9, 2014 with Dr. Sidsel Millerström ...... $8,295.00 + air THE AMERICAS Mexico: In the Path of the Olmecs Travel with renowned Olmec scholar, Professor Kent Reilly, through the Veracruz lowlands to San Bartolo to La Venta to Chalcatzingo, home to the colossal heads and finely carved sculptures emblematic of the Olmec style were found. March 14 - 23, 2014 with Professor F. Kent Reilly III ...... $6,995.00 Capital Cities of the Ancient Maya Explore the capital cities of the ancient Maya. See Copan, a UNESCO World Heritage site, Quiriguá, Tikal's towering temples, Yaxchilán, the delicate paintings at Bonampak, and Palenque, arguably the most beautiful of the cities. Spend the last two days in the colonial town of San Cristobal de las Casas. March 1 - 13, 2014 with epigrapher Stanley Paul Guenter ...... $7,595.00 Peru: Inkas & Their Ancestors From the Moche cities of the north to the fabled Inka sites of the highlands, experience the wealth of Peru's archaeological past. Caral, Chanquillo, ChanChan, Ollantaytambo, and the imcomparable Machu Picchu all await you, along with an opportunity to fly over the enigmatic Nazca Lines. June 18 - July 3, 2014 with Dr. William Sapp ...... $9,395.00

(800) 552-4575 • (415) 482-8400 • fax (415) 482-8495 • email: [email protected] • web page: www.farhorizons.com Kolossi Castle: The Tower of London Cyprus and the Crusades By Professor Brett Whalen

Cyprus, crossroads of the Eastern Mediterranean, has known many past conquests and rulers. The era of the crusades, however, stretching from the twelfth to the fifteenth centuries, marked an especially important time in the island’s history, including its political and commercial ties to Europe and We have subjected to the Middle East. ourselves the whole The crusader Travel with Professor Bob king, Richard the island of Cyprus with Bucholz and visit the Tower Lionheart, conquered all of its strong points. of London on Let’s to London, Cyprus in May 1191, May 17 - 25, 2014. en route to battle Richard I, King of England Dear Seth, against the Muslim “Hault, who comes there?” “The keys!” “Whose keys?” “Queen leader Saladin for Elizabeth’s keys!” Thus was the exchange between the sentry control of Jerusalem and what remained of the crusader states and the Chief Warder, in the dark of night, as our small group founded generations earlier by the First Crusade. Yet the English of privileged onlookers stood engrossed. With that final monarch did not seize the island from Muslims—he captured it statement to identify the keys, all was well… The sentry from fellow Christians, members of the Greek Orthodox Church, stood down with his firearm at his side and the Chief Warder since the island then belonged to authority of the Byzantine continued his deliberate march up through the Bloody Tower Empire. (The rich legacy of Byzantine religious life on the island Archway to meet the other watchmen on duty. The only sound can still be seen in the medieval Greek churches dotting the that reverberated through the crisp air was the squeak of the landscape). This situation did not stop Richard from attacking iron lantern swaying to and fro. The only light was the dim Cyprus, however, when the locals refused to give him the glow from the candle… welcome he felt he deserved. Richard soon departed for Jerusalem, leaving the island in The Ceremony of the Keys at the Tower of London has been control of his deputies. Eventually, with his hands full elsewhere, performed every night in this exact manner, at the exact he sold his rights to the island to the military order of the hour of 9:56pm, since the 14th century. It is just one of the Templars. Disliked by the Cypriots, who even rioted against many fascinating narratives of this building, which has stood them, the Templars decided to give Cyprus back to Richard, on Tower Hill since 1066 as a beacon of royal rule and, at times, who next sold it to the crusader kingsof Jerusalem in exile, the tyrannical justice. A walk through the grounds, under the Lusignans, whose family ruled there for generations to come. speared gates and around White Tower, is quite literally a stroll through English history. Among the many architectural marvels of the Middle Ages on Cyprus, the castle of Kolossi stands among the finest crusader Our exploration of the tower took place in the light of day on ruins on the island. The original fortress dates to a period shortly the morning of the ceremony. Upon entering through the outer after the English conquest, sometime in the early 1200s, perhaps gate, we took a tip from the guidebook and made a beeline for originally housing some of the Templars. The current structure the Crown Jewels exhibit. The various crowns, bejeweled swords, (which now looks over rich vineyards that produce some of and coronation garb glittered beyond comparison. Cyprus’s famous dessert wine, Commendaria) dates to 1454, With that and an obligatory stop at the gift shop under our erected by the Knights Hospitallers. belts, we rushed off to the lawn to meet our resident Yeoman, or Although this formidable keep might conjure images of battles, Beefeater, for a tour of the grounds. Under his sage guidance, boiling pitch, and catapults, the era of crusader dominion over we learned about the tower’s greater and lesser known stories: Cyprus actually marked a period of remarkable peace and the beheading of Anne Boleyn and Lady Jane Gray at the behest prosperity for the island. magnificent Kolossi Castle, surely of Henry VIII; how it served as the Royal Mint for a time under able to withstand a siege, functioned as an administrative the rule of Edward I; and how Charles II’s paranoia led to the center for the Hospitallers, who managed the fertile estates keeping of at least six ravens at the tower at all times. In of the surrounding coastal plain. truth, the traditional Tudor dress of the Yeoman almost upstaged this historical journey. But then we Travel with Professor Brett experienced the Ceremony of the Keys… Whalen on The Crusader Knights: Cyprus, Bodrum and Malta, June 1 - 15, 2014 www.farhorizons.com • 7 Presorted First Class Mail U.S. Postage Paid Oakland, CA Call or Email Permit No. 379 Today for Trip P.O. Box 2546 res! San Anselmo, CA 94979 USA Brochu

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www.farhorizons.com The Song of Easter Island

by Jacqueline Humphrey, 2013 trip participant

With majestic moai standing sentinel over the rolling grassy landscape, perfect cobalt skies, and the sparkling Pacific surf At the nightly concerts I could lean back in my seat, look up almost always in our line of vision, Easter Island made an at the sky full of stars and find the Southern Cross. No light unforgettable backdrop for the Tapati Festival when I traveled pollution here. there with Far Horizons last February. I had been to a few festivals in past travels but the Tapati is like no other — an My friends back home in North Carolina couldn’t believe intoxicating mix of Polynesian music and dance, a triathlon I was going to travel so far, alone, but our study leader, Dr. and other games (featuring gorgeous specimens of male Millerström, and my fellow travelers were so companionable pulchritude), and barefoot horseback races staged on a cliff and informed, home was the farthest thing from my mind. above the sea. In fact, the week long immersion in the Polynesian culture, and the idea of isolation that comes from being on the world’s Music was so much a part of the experience, even our driver most remote inhabited island, heightened the sense of adven - Enrique (who had assisted on Thor Heyerdahl’s excavations ture and made it one of my most memorable trips ever. All I in the 60s), sang and played the ukulele for us daily. Once, as have to do now is play the CD Enrique made for me of his we were navigating an underground petroglyph cave he had wonderful Polynesian chants, and I’m transported back to us turn off our flashlights while he sang a Polynesian chant in that gorgeous spot 2300 miles out in the middle of the ocean. the totally darkened space. Evenings after dinner I would walk down the street with my new companions and have a Travel with Dr. Sidsel Millerström on Easter Island and the maracuya (passionfruit) ice cream cone and watch the sunset. Tapati Festival, January 29 - February 9, 2014.

(800) 552-4575 • (415) 482-8400 • fax (415) 482-8495 • www.farhorizons.com • email: [email protected]