Gastronomy # 106
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Gastronomy # 106 Table of Contents Directors #106 Amaru Villanueva Rance, Ivan Rodriguez Petkovic, Rodrigo Barrenechea, Sharoll Fernandez, Caroline Risacher Gastronomy Partners Jack Kinsella, Xenia Elsaesser Editorial Team Caroline Risacher, Matthew Grace, Charlie Bladon Sub editor Alfonso Gorostiaga BX docunit Changtse Quintanilla Printing and Advertising Manager Ivan Rodriguez Petkovic Commercial Manager Rodrigo Barrenechea Coordinator Wilmer Machaca Social Coordinators Anneli Aliaga, George Fearnley Head of Production Rodrigo Barrenechea Head of Design FABIO ARANDIA The best street Luis Aranda Photography Instructor TYPICA and market foods Michael Dunn Caceres 08 24 Our Cover Ivan Rodríguez Petkovic Follow Us Ivan Rodríguez Petkovic Marketing Rodrigo Barrenechea Luis Alberto ‘Tito’ Advertise With Us [email protected] Eguino What’s Cooking Address Calle Prolongación Armaza, # 2957, Sopocachi, La Paz Margarita Valentina Phone 12 28 78862061- 76561628 - 70672031 Contact [email protected] A Q&A with Ella Asbún, General The Universe of Manager of Plants (goes to La Paz – Bolivia D.C.) June 2020 14Gustu 30 COVID 19 IN LA PAZ BOLIVIAN CUISINE /Bolivianexpress 18 32 @Bolivianexpress @Bolivianexpress 22TAKE OUTS 35GLOSSARY www.boliviaunlimited.org 4 Gastronomy 5 Editorial #106: Gastronomy By: Caroline Risacher he foods that one misses the can now order take outs and food delivered most when away from home are from almost anywhere. Even cocktails. In usually the ones that we take a very paradoxical way, in Bolivia, food is the most from granted when almost even more available now than before. we experience them. Like the Tanticuchos you eat, not fully sober, in the Food is comforting, food provides middle of the night or the little bag of nuts connection, and because here at Bolivian you grab on your way to work from a street Express, eating and talking about food vendor. Because of the pandemic some of are our favourite activities we concocted us are left stranded somewhere far away another issue (our third one) entirely from where we want to be and not knowing focused on food, gastronomy, drinks, chefs until when. and everything edible. The issue itself may not be (yet) but it comes with recipes you When times get tough there is nothing can try at home. like the warmth of an api with a sweet and savoury pastel, or nothing quite as And now for those of us who have refreshing as an helado de canela or a embraced the art of cooking, baking and giant slice of watermelon to go. Trying to making cocktails at home, the possibilities recreate dishes ourselves helps but even if are infinite. You don’t live in Bolivia (or we manage to bake the softest, fluffiest and you do but you can’t leave your house) crunchiest pancitos in the world, nothing and miss the messiness of a salteña? No comes close to being able to share it with problem, just bake them at home. The someone you love. secret is to sweeten the dough and to use some gelatine to create the perfect In this new world we live in we may not be juicy stew inside. Make your own choripán able to eat outside as casually as before or with chorizo, baguette bread and all the hang in our favourite bars for hours with our condiments you like, but don’t forget the friends. Most places have adapted and you llajua. Never forget the llajua. Several Spanish and Aymara words are marked in N.B. bold throughout this issue. Their meanings can be found in our glossary. 6 Gastronomy 7 FABIO ARANDIA TYPICA TEXT: BX TEAM Photo: Ivan Rodriguez Petkovic efore Typica opened its first the opening of Typica adding to this frenzy. locale in Calacoto, coffee Instead of reaching far and wide for coveted enthusiasts had limited options beans, Arandia looked no further than his for specialty coffee. Since its backyard. ‘We already produced specialty inception in 2013, 7 more shops coffee but most of it was exported to Bhave opened across Bolivia, with branches markets in North America, Europe and Asia.’ in Cochabamba, Oruro, Santa Cruz, Sucre As the success of Typica shows, the demand and two more in La Paz. Where caffeine for specialty coffee in Bolivia is ever-growing. connoisseurs once lacked the access to In part this is because of the opening of local coffee of incredible quality, they are spaces like Typica and a new generation of now increasingly catered for. Fabio Arandia entrepreneurs like Arandia himself. Loayza is the man behind Typica’s founding and is one of the key partners of the franchise. Typica was unique for Bolivia at the time. His love for coffee and the shrewd analysis Environmentalism laid at the foundation of which drew him to this gap in the market has their ethos, Arandia stated that they ‘use paved the way for Bolivia’s coffee revolution. biodegradable packaging that has less impact on the environment and our products Arandia has always been drawn to the are fresh and natural’. Arandia took this world of coffee. This attraction led him to concept further and for Typica it meant more the art of coffee making, soon taking up the than just providing biodegradable packaging. mantle himself and becoming a barista. His Their concern for recycling even extended passion for coffee, extended to the coffee to their furniture with restored antiques of his homeland. ‘Bolivia is one of the best furnishing their branches across the country, coffee producers in the world,’ he says. Early making their shops instantly recognisable. on, he saw the potential and the unique ‘Bohemian’ is a word often attributed to this qualities of Bolivian coffee. ‘The geological chain, one only needs to see it for themselves and environmental conditions that we have to get a sense of the tasteful atmosphere in the coffee-growing regions of Bolivia are created by this eclectic mix. very favourable. This is why we are among the best growers of specialty coffee in the In the midst of this global pandemic, the world,’ he explained. service industry has suffered massively and Typica is not exempt. It forced Typica to To better understand the great strides made adapt overnight, Arandia earmarked their by coffee culture in Bolivia since Typica’s main challenge ‘this is to provide the same opening, Arandia laid out the coffee basics. experience that we gave customers in our Arandia explained the growing success coffee shops but now in their homes.’ As far specialty coffee experienced worldwide, as Arandia is concerned post-pandemic, stating that ‘since 2000, a movement he remains optimistic, ‘coffee is one of the emerged prioritising the traceability of most consumed beverages in the world, coffee and the quality of coffee beans. Its I believe that this will not change and that origin, processing, roasting and preparation the situation we are going through now will methods were taken into account, as well the be an opportunity for learning.’ While it’s ability to provide an excellent service as part hard to plan for the future now, there is one of the experience.’ absolute and as Arandia put it ‘I doubt there are people who don’t want a good cup of Coffee fever hit Bolivia shortly after with coffee.’ 8 Gastronomy 9 Follow/Bolivianexpress @Bolivianexpress Us@Bolivianexpress 10 Gastronomy 11 Luis Alberto ‘Tito’ Eguino Margarita TEXT: BX TEAM Photo: Ivan Rodriguez Petkovic a Paz’s culinary scene has cooked with Bolivian ingredients. It blurs experienced a mouth-watering the lines of conventional foreign cuisine with boom in recent years. Its ever a blend of flavours from across the globe. growing prestige has earned Combining rustic burgers with the famous its spot at the top, the gourmet Argentinian/Uruguayan sauce, chimichurri, Lfood on offer now rivalling that of the Latin and the smokey provolone cheese typically American gastronomy capitals of Lima used in Italian cooking, these flavours and Buenos Aires. Restaurants like Gustu, are accompanied by the sacred Bolivian Popular, and Ali Pacha continue to receive papas. This simple and delectable twist on international praise as they champion a well-established classic typifies Eguino’s local ingredients whilst creating gourmet, worldwide exposure. affordable well-established dining for food lovers. This has certainly helped to break Margarita is a place without fuss, where one the stigma attached to Bolivia’s food, which can find comfort and a sense of community. is often touted as uninteresting compared For Eguino, ‘Food is the basis of society.’ to its culinary neighbours. Bolivian food Eguino wanted to create a place where is filling, comforting and full of versatility, people could connect and enjoy each other. something that chef Luis Alberto ‘Tito’ ‘I think that one of the greatest riches of Eguino showcases in his restaurant Bolivia is its people. We have created a Margarita. Located in Calacoto, La Paz, it place where you can feel the familiarity provides a simpler, yet satisfying, alternative and affections of our team and our clients.’ to the big names of his friendly competitors, Margarita proves that it is not only a adding to an already impressive and ever- confluence of cuisines but also foodies growing repertoire of fine dining in La Paz. across La Paz, a testimony to its popularity and quality. Eguino was born in Bolivia but he grew up in various countries. ‘I think this is why I have With the current pandemic in mind, the an affinity with different tastes in relation to future is uncertain. It is hard to look ahead food and varied flavours,’ he says. He spoke but Eguino is positive about Bolivia’s culinary to his friend and now business partner Jorge future and is convinced that what we have (Mealla) and the idea for Margarita was seen so far is only the start.