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Tropical Birding - Trip Report & , January 2018

Trinidad & Tobago January 11–21, 2018

Tufted Coquette

Leader—Bill Murphy Co-Leader—Wesley Homoya Local Guides — Charlie Madoo (Caroni Swamp), Tyrone Frank (Little Tobago Island) Drivers — Ivan LaRose (Trinidad), Bert Isaac (Tobago)

Report by Bill Murph; photos by Wesley Homoya

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Day 1: Arrival Day 2: Asa Wright Nature Centre (AWNC) Day 3: Orange Grove, Aripo Livestock Station, Manzanilla Beach, Mayaro Road, Nariva Swamp, Waller Field Day 4: Blanchisseuse Road, Textel Tropospheric Scatter Site, Las Lapas Trace, Morne La Croix (plus Grande Riviere for some) Day 5: Carapachaima (Hanuman temple), Brickfield, Temple-in-the-Sea (Waterloo), Orange Valley, Carli Bay Day 6: Grounds of AWNC, Caroni Swamp Day 7: Magdalena ponds, Little Tobago Island (LTI), Cuffie River Nature Retreat (Cuffie River) Day 8: Cuffie River, Gilpin Trace and Niplig Trace, Bloody Bay (Sunshine Café) Day 9: Cuffie River and environs, Old Donkey Trace (plus snorkeling at Castara for some) Day 10: Cuffie River, Fort James (Plymouth), Grafton-Caledonia Wildlife Sanctuary, Bon Accord ponds Day 11: Departure

his midwinter exploration of the beautiful islands of was highlighted by views of stunningly gorgeous , cryptically colored in their dimly illuminated crevice, two of manakins T displaying on their leks, a wide variety of species enjoying fruit on platform feeders, Scarlet Ibis gathering at dusk at their communal roost, and a lone Savanna that established the first record of that species for Tobago. We worked as a team and had a terrific time while recording about 200 species of . This was my final birding tour to Trinidad & Tobago (birding tour #94, visit #98), so I was especially happy to see that you were so happy!

Masked

Wesley and I arrived three days before the tour started so that we could perform due diligence regarding sites, road conditions, current entrance requirements, and presence of target species. Several participants also arrived a day or two before the trip started, and several remained for a day or two after the trip ended. Wesley met his parents at the airport the day the tour ended, and the three of them enjoyed five more days in paradise.

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The official tour included six nights in Trinidad at the splendid Asa Wright Nature Centre, seven miles north of the city of Arima in Trinidad's Northern Range, and three nights at the tranquil Cuffie River Nature Retreat near the village of Runnemede in Tobago. At Asa Wright we had plenty of time to enjoy the unmatched opportunity to enjoy the birds, mostly of Amazonian origin, visiting the busy fruit and feeders and in the very productive nearby Trema trees from the shady veranda while enjoying locally grown coffee, rum punch, and cold drinks. During our stay we explored the grounds of the Centre and made excursions in Ivan LaRose's maxi taxi, God's Favour, to Orange Grove, a former sugar cane plantation; the eastern edge of the Aripo Livestock Station near Arima; Manzanilla Beach on the Atlantic Ocean; Mayaro Road, which runs atop an ancient former sandbar along the Atlantic Ocean through miles of coconut palms; Nariva Swamp, which drains east-central Trinidad; Waller Field, an abandoned World War II military base constructed by the U.S. Army; Blanchisseuse Road, which connects central Trinidad to the Sea; the Textel Tropospheric Scatter Site, which at 1,800 feet provided our highest birding opportunity; Las Lapas Trace, a dirt road leading down from the heights above the Asa Wright Nature Centre into the Lopinot Valley to the west; the hamlet of Morne La Croix, known for views of flocks of Blue-headed Parrots in late afternoon; sites along the Gulf of Paria on Trinidad's west coast (including Carapachaima for the spectacular Hanuman temple; Brickfield Fishing Centre; Temple-in-the-Sea, near Waterloo; Orange Valley, with its long, concrete pier; and Carli Bay, a popular swimming and fishing park), and the splendid Winston Nanan Caroni Sanctuary (Caroni Swamp). Some participants also made a highly successful foray to the remote village of Grande Riviere on the northeastern coast to see the Trinidad Piping-Guan, a species endemic to Trinidad.

Trinidad Piping-Guan

From Trinidad it was only a 20-minute flight to another gem, the West Indian island of Tobago. Here we explored various ponds at the Magdalena Grand Beach & Golf Resort (Magdalena ponds), uninhabited Little Tobago Island, the peaceful Cuffie River Nature Retreat along with its productive entrance drive and Old Donkey Trail, pristine sections of the Tobago Main Ridge Preserve (Gilpin Trace and Niplig Trace), the village of Bloody Bay as seen from our outdoor dining area at the Sunshine Café, Fort James in Plymouth, the Grafton-Caledonia Wildlife Sanctuary, and the Bon Accord ponds. Three members of the group and I made an afternoon foray to the village of Castara for snorkeling (them) or "liming" at a beachside pub (me). www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] p.3 Tropical Birding - Trip Report Trinidad & Tobago, January 2018

Our visit to Tobago provided us opportunities to see species never found in Trinidad, such as Rufous-vented Chachalaca, White-tailed Sabrewing, Red-crowned Woodpecker, Olivaceous Woodcreeper, White-fringed Antwren, Venezuelan Flycatcher, Blue-backed Manakin, and Scrub Greenlet, all of which we found. We enjoyed a trip in a glass- bottomed boat to Little Tobago Island to see breeding Red-billed Tropicbirds, Brown and Red-footed Boobies, and their piratic scourge -- the – and viewed amazing coral reefs and tropical fish during our trip back to "mainland" Tobago.

White-necked Jacobin

Of special mention was our first birding stop on Tobago, at the Magdalena ponds, where we were treated to a unique opportunity. A distant, large raptor appeared at first to be a likely candidate for Osprey, a relatively common visitor to Tobago. As it drew near, upon closer inspection we noted that it was not an Osprey at all but was instead a species we had already encountered in Trinidad several times during our trip – a Savanna Hawk. Incredibly, we documented – and Wesley quickly photographed – the first Savanna Hawk for Tobago in history. This event added of some extra adrenalin to an already pretty fantastic trip. Wesley and I will submit our documentation to the T&T Birds Status and Distribution Committee.

Drivers are crucial to making trips successful and safe. I am grateful to my friend Ivan LaRose ([email protected]) for his excellent service transporting us in his maxi taxi in Trinidad and to Bert Isaac, who has done a similarly excellent job for me over the years on Tobago. Besides driving and spotting birds, these gentlemen provided us with insight into the culture and history of their respective islands.

Another person I would like to mention who made our trip so very successful was Regina Dumas (nature@cuffie- river.com) at Cuffie River Nature Retreat. By designing, constructing, and managing that wonderful inn and offering her gracious services as hostess, cook, and multitasking facilitator, she provided us, as she has with many of my groups in past years, with a never-to-be-forgotten experience. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] p.4 Tropical Birding - Trip Report Trinidad & Tobago, January 2018

Birding aside, there was something magical about this tour. Birding groups generally are affable, but this group bonded to an astonishing degree right from the start. Several of you have contacted me since you returned home, expressing as sense of loss and nearly identical feelings of "homesickness" for our birding group. This absolutely is not typical after a birding tour! I consider it a huge tribute to each of you that we were able to share a sense of being a team or a family to such a degree. I know that each of us returned home with personal memories we will always treasure. As for me, I will always remember fondly the farewell dinner that Regina and some of you arranged for my send-off, commemorating my final tour to T&T. It was indeed a totally unexpected and splendid event. I thank you again so much for your thoughtfulness.

To all of you who accompanied us on this exceptionally enjoyable tour, thank you. You were such a friendly, gregarious, generous, and loving group! Like you, I am still "homesick" for our group. Need I say that April and I will always welcome you at our house. I hope very much to rendezvous and bird with you again.

Good birding! Bill Murphy, Fishers, Indiana USA

(Photo right: Trinidad )

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Species List

BIRDS

This list does not include species recorded by leaders only. Names and order of species follows the checklist we used during our tour, the Asa Wright Nature Centre Species Checklist, as updated by Martyn Kenefick and me in 2015.

Key: (H) = heard only

Tinamidae (Tinamous) LITTLE TINAMOU (Crypturellus soui) — (H) The mournful whistle of this chicken-like skulker was audible at dawn and dusk from the AWNC and throughout the Northern Range almost every day.

Cracidae (Guans, Chachalacas, and Curassows) RUFOUS-VENTED CHACHALACA (Ortalis ruficauda) — The national/island bird of Tobago; individuals or small flocks were seen and especially heard every day. TRINIDAD PIPING-GUAN (Pipile pipile) — The members of our group who sacrificed sleep to visit at the traditional viewing site at Grande Riviere at dawn were successful in their quest for this large, arboreal, turkey-like species, one of only two birds endemic to T&T (the other being the Trinidad Motmot).

Podicipedidae (Grebes) LEAST GREBE (Tachybaptus dominicus) — Our final "tick" of our tour! At least three individuals of this tiny species of grebe were seen swimming in the westernmost Bon Accord pond.

Phaethontidae (Tropicbirds) RED-BILLED TROPICBIRD (Phaethon aethereus) — On LTI the sight of hundreds of tropicbirds flying, displaying, one on the ground nesting, and many being pursued by pirating Magnificent Frigatebirds was very enjoyable.

Sulidae (Boobies and Gannets) BROWN BOOBY (Sula leucogaster) — On LTI scores of this chocolate-colored species were observed as they stood on rocky outcrops and as they flew over the crashing waves. RED-FOOTED BOOBY (Sula sula) — On LTI both light and dark morph birds were observed, some through the scope, as they perched in shrubs and also in flight.

Pelecanidae (Pelicans) BROWN PELICAN (Pelecanus occidentalis) — Brown Pelicans were frequently observed along seacoasts on both islands.

Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags) NEOTROPIC CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax brasilianus) — We observed this species at various wetlands in Trinidad and found three (likely all-time high number for Tobago) at the Magdalena ponds.

Anhingidae (Anhingas) ANHINGA (Anhinga anhinga) — A few of these Snakebirds were seen at the mouth of the Nariva River in Trinidad and swimming or perched in trees at the Magdalena and Bon Accord ponds.

Fregatidae (Frigatebirds) MAGNIFICENT FRIGATEBIRD (Fregata magnificens) — Seen flying overhead every day on both islands as well as on LTI, these long-winged pirates often were seen soaring high above Trinidad and Tobago as if they were flotsam on the sea.

Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns) www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] p.6 Tropical Birding - Trip Report Trinidad & Tobago, January 2018

GREAT BLUE HERON (Ardea herodias) — One of these tall visitors from North America was seen hunting on the mudflats at Orange Valley. GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba) — Seen on most days in wetlands on both islands as well as flying to roost in the Caroni Swamp. SNOWY EGRET (Egretta thula) — Seen flying to roost in the Caroni Swamp and hunting in the Magdalena ponds. LITTLE BLUE HERON (Egretta caerulea) — Widespread on both islands; hundreds of adults and immatures were seen flying to roost in the Caroni Swamp. TRICOLORED HERON (Egretta tricolor) — Hundreds were observed flying to roost in the Caroni Swamp; also a pair was observed at their nest in Murphy's Tree at the Magdalena ponds. CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis) — Widespread, seen almost every day on both islands. GREEN HERON (Butorides virescens) — Good views were obtained at multiple locations on Tobago. STRIATED HERON (Butorides striata) — Individuals were seen at a number of sites along the Gulf of Paria and in the Caroni Swamp. BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (Nycticorax nycticorax) — Wesley pointed out a few individuals of this species behind one of the small ponds at Orange Grove. YELLOW-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (Nyctanassa violacea) — A good number of this crab-eating species was seen along the west coast, including in the Caroni Swamp, and a difficult-to-identify immature was observed in a tree above Cuffie River. BOAT-BILLED HERON (Cochlearius cochlearius) — Charlie Madoo pointed out an adult and an immature to us in the Caroni Swamp mangroves.

Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills) SCARLET IBIS (Eudocimus ruber) — Excellent views were enjoyed of thousands of these luminous birds flying to roost in the Caroni Swamp; the show began well before sunset and was still in full swing as we left the area. The strong rum punch may have added a tiny bit to our joviality that evening.

Cathartidae ( Vultures) BLACK VULTURE (Coragyps atratus) — Seen every day soaring over Trinidad, usually after 10 a.m.; absent from Tobago. TURKEY VULTURE (Cathartes aura) — Seen every day soaring over Trinidad, usually after 10 a.m.; absent from Tobago.

Pandionidae (Osprey) OSPREY (Pandion haliaetus) — Commonly seen by us in Trinidad except in the mountains; seen less commonly on Tobago.

Accipitridae (, Eagles, and Kites) GRAY-HEADED KITE (Leptodon cayanensis) — An individual seen displaying over the Textel station was courting, flying very slowly while quivering its wings. PEARL KITE (Gampsonyx swainsonii) — Thanks to Steve's sharp eyes, a pair was studied at close range through the scope at Orange Grove while they attended their treetop nest. SNAIL KITE (Rostrhamus sociabilis) — A brief but convincing view of one in flight was obtained just after we arrived at Orange Grove. LONG-WINGED HARRIER (Circus buffoni) — Individuals of both morphs of this attractive raptor were seen, with singles at Orange Grove, near Orange Valley, and near the Caroni Swamp. WHITE HAWK (Pseudastur albicollis) — One individual of this highly sought-after species soared over us at close range at Las Lapas. GRAY-LINED HAWK (Buteo nitidus) — A pair of Gray-lined Hawks was nesting at Piarco Village Suites, where many participants stayed before or after the tour; this species also was seen at a few other spots in Trinidad. COMMON BLACK HAWK (Buteogallus anthracinus) — Multiple sightings were enjoyed in Trinidad, including pairs soaring above the AWNC, where the size difference between the male and female was obvious. GREAT BLACK HAWK (Buteogallus urubitinga) — Tobago only. An exceptionally close view was enjoyed of an www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] p.7 Tropical Birding - Trip Report Trinidad & Tobago, January 2018

adult on a perch along Gilpin Trace; also sightings were obtained of soaring individuals, including one doing barrel rolls while being repeatedly attacked by an adult Broad-winged Hawk. SAVANNA HAWK (Buteogallus meridionalis) — Multiple sightings were made of this species in the lowlands of eastern Trinidad, and our group established the first Tobago record at the Magdalena ponds. BROAD-WINGED HAWK (Buteo platypterus) — One was seen flying over Trinidad, and two were seen flying over Tobago, including an individual that repeatedly dove on a soaring Great Black Hawk. SHORT-TAILED HAWK (Buteo brachyurus) — At least two sightings were obtained of this chunky species, both light-morph birds circling above the AWNC. ZONE-TAILED HAWK (Buteo albonotatus) — Several sightings of this vulture-mimicking species were enjoyed above the AWNC, and one was spotted near the Caroni Swamp. YELLOW-HEADED (Milvago chimachima) — Several sightings of this species were obtained in lowlands and swampy areas on both islands. (Falco columbarius) — Several sightings were enjoyed of both perched and flying birds on both islands. BAT FALCON (Falco rufigularis) — One perched individual of this attractive species was spotted by Coby during the optional Grande Riviere trip and was identified by AWNC guide Dave Ramlal. PEREGRINE FALCON (Falco peregrinus) — Several individuals of this large falcon species were noted as they perched atop cell towers or flew above lowlands on both islands.

Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots) MANGROVE (formerly CLAPPER) RAIL (Rallus longirostris pelodramus) — One or two individuals of this recently split species were briefly studied as they responded to playback as we peered into the mangroves near the base of the Orange Valley jetty. SORA (Porzana carolina) — One was seen in brief flight over aquatic vegetation at the Magdalena ponds. PURPLE GALLINULE (Porphyrio martinicus) — Adults and immatures were seen at the Nariva Swamp and in the Bon Accord and Magdalena ponds. COMMON GALLINULE (Gallinula galeata) — Adults and immatures were seen at the Nariva Swamp and in the Bon Accord and Magdalena ponds.

Aramidae (Limpkin) LIMPKIN (Aramus guarauna) — A lone bird was spotted as it perched in full view atop a fencepost in an abandoned sugar cane plantation between Carli Bay and Carapachaima on the west coast of Trinidad.

Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings) SOUTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus chilensis) — Widespread, seen daily near fresh water on both islands. BLACK-BELLIED PLOVER (Pluvialis squatarola) — A few individuals were seen along the west coast of Trinidad as well as at the mouth of the Nariva River. WILSON'S PLOVER (Charadrius wilsonia cinnamominus) — A few individuals of the resident race, cinnamominus, of this thick-billed species were found on mudflats along the west coast. SEMIPALMATED PLOVER (Charadrius semipalmatus) — At least two were found on mudflats at Temple-in-the-Sea.

Jacanidae (Jacanas) WATTLED JACANA (Jacana jacana) — Adults and immatures were seen near fresh water on both islands.

Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies) GREATER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa melanoleuca) — A few birds of this species were seen on mudflats along the west coast of Trinidad. LESSER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa flavipes) — Seen at a few spots along Trinidad's west coast and at the Bon Accord ponds in Tobago. SOLITARY SANDPIPER (Tringa solitaria) — A lone bird was seen in a flooded ditch near the Bon Accord ponds. WILLET (Tringa semipalmata) — Small flocks of this unmistakable (when flying) species were seen on mudflats along Trinidad's west coast. SPOTTED SANDPIPER (Actitis macularius) — The most abundant shorebird on both islands, it was widespread and www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] p.8 Tropical Birding - Trip Report Trinidad & Tobago, January 2018

found near both fresh and salt water. WHIMBREL (Numenius phaeopus) — One individual was seen feeding on mudflats at Brickfield and one was found in a small estuary near Grafton on Tobago. RUDDY TURNSTONE (Arenaria interpres) — Small flocks were found along Trinidad's west coast, on the dock at the Blue Waters Inn on Tobago (practically domesticated!), and by the snorkeling group on rocks in Castara Bay. RED KNOT (Calidris canutus) — Two were noted as they foraged in mud next to beached boats at Brickfield. SANDERLING (Calidris alba) — One individual was seen on a sand bank at the mouth of the Nariva River.

Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers) LAUGHING GULL (Leucophaeus atricilla) — Seen in flocks along Trinidad's west coast and observed resting on anchored fishing boats on both islands, this is the only species of gull commonly found in T&T. LESSER BLACK-BACKED GULL (Larus fuscus graellsii) – One immature and two adults, all of the graellsii race (breeds in the UK, the Faeroes, and Iceland), were studied as they rested with terns and Laughing Gulls at Orange Valley. ROYAL TERN (Thalasseus maximus) — Seen along Trinidad's west coast, in Batteaux Bay during our boat trip to LTI, by the snorkeling group at Castara Bay, and resting on fishing boats at Fort James, this was the most common tern seen during our trip. SANDWICH TERN (Thalasseus sandvicensis) — Several individuals, all with yellow-tipped, black bills, were observed as they resting on anchored fishing boats off Fort James on Tobago; no individuals with all-yellow bills ("Cayenne Tern") were noted. BLACK SKIMMER (Rynchops niger cinerascens) — Individuals of the cinerascens race were seen on mudflats along Trinidad's west coast.

Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves) ROCK PIGEON (Columba livia) — Seen commonly in urban areas on both islands. PALE-VENTED PIGEON (Patagioenas cayennensis) — One was seen perched on a phone line near Orange Grove in Trinidad and then daily on Tobago. SCALED PIGEON (Patagioenas speciosa) — One was observed as it perched in a bare tree at the AWNC. EARED DOVE (Zenaida auriculata) — Frequently observed in the southern Tobago lowlands. PLAIN-BREASTED GROUND-DOVE (Columbina minuta) — Wesley picked out an individual of this scarce (in T&T) species for us at Orange Grove. RUDDY GROUND DOVE (Columbina talpacoti) — Abundant; our most frequently seen dove, noted almost every day on both islands. WHITE-TIPPED DOVE (Leptotila verreauxi) — Missed in Trinidad by the group but observed and heard every day on Tobago.

Psittacidae (New World and African Parrots) BLUE-AND-YELLOW MACAW (Ara ararauna) — A persistent quest turned up two of these lovely creatures in flight just south of the Nariva Swamp; the species is being reintroduced in their former range. GREEN-RUMPED PARROTLET (Forpus passerinus) — These cute birds were seen at the Aripo Livestock Station, in the Caroni Swamp, and at the Magdalena ponds. BLUE-HEADED PARROT (Pionus menstruus) — First observed as singles on power lines and then as a tight flock at Morne La Croix, their deeper wingbeats distinguished them in flight from Orange-winged Parrots. ORANGE-WINGED PARROT (Amazona amazonica) — Seen in pairs or small flocks and heard screaming every day on both islands.

Cuculidae (Cuckoos) SQUIRREL CUCKOO (Piaya cayana) — (H) One individual of this usually cryptic species was heard as we explored the grounds of the AWNC. STRIPED CUCKOO (Tapera naevia) — The unique two-note call of this spinetail-nest parasite was heard almost continuously for about 10 minutes at the Aripo Livestock Station before the bird was spotted by a few participants. Then it dropped into the grass and disappeared. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] p.9 Tropical Birding - Trip Report Trinidad & Tobago, January 2018

GREATER ANI (Crotophaga major) — A small flock of this large, pale-eyed species was found along the entrance road to the Caroni Swamp Visitors' Center; they flew across the road in single file. SMOOTH-BILLED ANI (Crotophaga ani) — Seen by the group almost every day in overgrown, weedy spots on both islands.

Strigidae () [SPECTACLED ] (Pulsatrix perspicillata) — Several participants saw a large, dark owl near a Spectacled Owl nest box along the entrance road at the AWNC; it was almost certainly this species. FERRUGINOUS PYGMY-OWL (Glaucidium brasilianum) — (H) Heard daily in Trinidad, but we didn't concentrate at any time to call one in by use of playback; absent from Tobago.

Caprimulgidae ( and Allies) SHORT-TAILED NIGHTHAWK (Lurocalis semitorquatus) — Dave Ramlal pointed out an individual of this species to the Grande Riviere group. COMMON PAURAQUE (Nyctidromus albicollis) — At least one individual was heard calling after dark near the Moriche grove at Waller Field, and several were later seen in the headlights of Ivan's maxi on the concrete runway. RUFOUS ( rufus) — A single individual of this species was heard called after dark near the Moriche grove at Waller Field, sounding very much like a Chuck-will's-widow. WHITE-TAILED NIGHTJAR (Hydropsalis cayennensis) — Several individuals were seen on the pavement near the Moriche grove at Waller Field after dark. Later in the trip they were observed in the headlights of Bert's maxi as they flushed from the surface of the Cuffie River road after dark, as well as on the driveway and on a branch just outside the lodge.

Nyctibiidae (Potoos) (Nyctibius griseus) — At Cuffie River a single bird was seen most nights, perched either on a power line behind the inn or on a short stick along the driveway in front of the inn.

Steatornithidae () OILBIRD (Steatornis caripensis) — On a walk led by AWNC resident guide Liz Naipaul, several of these strange birds were visible from the entrance to Dunstan Cave as they sat on their nests.

Apodidae (Swifts) SHORT-TAILED SWIFT (Chaetura brachyura) — The common swift in lowlands on both islands, seen almost every day, sometimes in flocks of hundreds, especially near the Hanuman statue in Carapachaima. FORK-TAILED PALM-SWIFT (Tachornis squamata) — Not found at their traditional nesting and roosting area in the Moriche grove at Waller Field but observed flying near some Moriche palms near a school in Carapachaima and briefly along the Churchill-Roosevelt Highway as we drove to the Caroni Swamp.

Trochilidae (Hummingbirds) RUFOUS-BREASTED ( hirsutus) — The most common species of hermit seen during the trip, observed in many shaded sites on both islands nectaring on low-growing , especially , and at hummingbird feeders on both islands. GREEN HERMIT ( guy) — A female was observed at her nest on the cord of a light fixture inside the AWNC(!); others were observed as they nectared on low-growing flowers, especially Torch Ginger; absent from Tobago. LITTLE HERMIT (Phaethornis longuemareus) — Seen mostly as they nectared at low-growing, tiny flowers straight below the south side of the the AWNC veranda. WHITE-TAILED SABREWING (Campylopterus ensipennis) — Tobago only. This large hummingbird was seen and heard daily at the Cuffie River hummingbird feeders and resting in the adjacent trees as well as along Gilpin Trace. WHITE-NECKED JACOBIN (Florisuga mellivora) — One of the three most commonly seen hummingbird species on both islands, the others being Copper-rumped Hummingbird and White-chested Emerald. GREEN-THROATED MANGO (Anthracothorax viridigula) — Charlie Madoo pointed out an individual of this species www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] p.10 Tropical Birding - Trip Report Trinidad & Tobago, January 2018

that was perched and quite close to our Caroni Swamp boat. BLACK-THROATED MANGO (Anthracothorax nigricollis) — Both males and females were seen daily on both islands, mainly at hummingbird feeders. RUBY-TOPAZ HUMMINGBIRD (Chrysolampis mosquitus) — This spectacular bird was a treat for us to see almost daily on both islands, having returned a bit earlier than usual from their wintering grounds in . ( ornatus) — Small numbers of this tiny, beautiful, extremely photogenic hummingbird species was seen daily at the AWNC, where they preferred to visit verbena flowers and appeared to enjoy testing the patience of photographers. BLUE-CHINNED SAPPHIRE (Chlorestes notata) — A retiring species, a few were seen at the AWNC, most commonly seen while they nectared in shaded areas just outside the dining room windows. WHITE-TAILED GOLDENTHROAT (Polytmus guainumbi) — One individual of this species, which favors visiting tiny flowers growing in waterlogged savannahs, was seen by a few participants at Orange Grove. WHITE-CHESTED EMERALD (Amazilia brevirostris) — Seen daily at the AWNC, away from the main building as well as at the feeders, this species actually sings. COPPER-RUMPED HUMMINGBIRD (Amazilia tobaci) — One of the two most commonly seen hummingbird species on both islands, the other being the White-necked Jacobin. LONG-BILLED STARTHROAT (Heliomaster longirostris) — Fabulous eye-level-or-below views were enjoyed of this canopy-loving species at the AWNC. Ours was the first group of mine ever to be able to savor the iridescent blaze of color on this normally dull-looking, backlit species.

Trogonidae (Trogons) GREEN-BACKED TROGON (Trogon viridis) — The largest of the three trogon species in T&T. Heard frequently and seen several times by our group along the entrance drive and trails at the AWNC. GUIANAN TROGON (Trogon violaceus) — The smallest of the three trogon species in T&T. Heard frequently and seen several times along the entrance drive and trails at the AWNC. COLLARED TROGON (Trogon collaris) — Heard and then observed at close range at the AWNC at an excavated tree hole near the AWNC entrance gate and later along the trails at Cuffie River, this crimson-bellied species was quite spectacular. Momotidae () TRINIDAD MOTMOT ( bahamensis) — One of two species of birds found only in T&T; seen at the AWNC below the veranda and in many shaded locations on Tobago, where it is much bolder than in Trinidad.

Alcedinidae (Kingfishers) RINGED KINGFISHER (Megaceryle torquata) — The largest kingfisher in the Western Hemisphere; brief but close views were enjoyed of an individual perched on a bridge railing along the road between Carli Bay and Carapachaima in western Trinidad. BELTED KINGFISHER (Megaceryle alcyon) — One individual was seen first perched and then flying across the water at one of the Magdalena ponds. GREEN KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle americana) — One was spotted in Trinidad at Orange Grove and another on Tobago along the entrance drive to Cuffie River; at first glance it was misidentified by your leader as a much-wanted White-winged Becard.

Galbulidae (Jacamars) RUFOUS-TAILED JACAMAR (Galbula ruficauda) — Heard at Waller Field in Trinidad and on Tobago seen every day along the entrance road to Cuffie River and in other open, sunny locations.

Ramphastidae () CHANNEL-BILLED (Ramphastos vitellinus) — Flocks of as many as six were seen at the AWNC, flying in single file from one tree to the next.

Picidae (Woodpeckers) RED-CROWNED WOODPECKER (Melanerpes rubricapillus) — Tobago only; seen mainly on trunks of coconut www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] p.11 Tropical Birding - Trip Report Trinidad & Tobago, January 2018

palms at Magdalena ponds and Cuffie River and environs. RED-RUMPED WOODPECKER (Veniliornis kirkii) — Heard in the Caroni Swamp and then seen well as it foraged along tree trunks at Grafton/Caledonia Wildlife Sanctuary on Tobago. Voice and lack of a strong facial pattern helps separate this species from the very similar Golden-olive Woodpecker. GOLDEN-OLIVE WOODPECKER (Colaptes rubiginosus) — Heard and seen most days on both islands, including at the AWNC and in Tobago.

Furnariidae (Ovenbirds and Woodcreepers) PALE-BREASTED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis albescens) — Excellent views of this bedraggled-looking species were obtained as a result of playback at Orange Grove -- "wee CHOO! wee CHOO!" STRIPE-BREASTED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis cinnamomea) — A pair of this mouselike species called and then responded well to playback along Gilpin Trace, allowing lengthy views. YELLOW-CHINNED SPINETAIL (Certhiaxis cinnamomeus) — Seen at various marshy sites in the lowlands of eastern Trinidad; its alarm call is similar to that of a Belted Kingfisher. STREAKED XENOPS (Xenops rutilans) — Wesley located an individual of this vine-loving species and showed it to the group as it foraged along the forest edge along the steep entrance road into the Textel site. OLIVACEOUS WOODCREEPER (Sittasomus griseicapillus) — One individual of this species was heard calling along Niplig Trace. It responded immediately to playback and allowed excellent views. STRAIGHT-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Dendroplex picus) — (H) Several of this mangrove-loving species were heard calling from deep inside the Caroni Swamp. COCOA WOODCREEPER (Xiphorhynchus susurrans) — Observed on several days foraging up tree trunks and probing bromeliads at the AWNC and later heard at Cuffie River and environs.

Thamnophilidae (Typical Antbirds) GREAT ANTSHRIKE (Taraba major) — (H) Heard at the AWNC calling from the bushes in front of the veranda and later along the entrance drive. BLACK-CRESTED ANTSHRIKE (Sakesphorus canadensis) — A pair of this wacky-looking species popped up in mangroves near the beginning of the road to the Caroni Swamp Visitors' Center in response to playback. As with many species of tropical birds, parts of the that are black in the male are cinnamon in the female. BARRED ANTSHRIKE (Thamnophilus doliatus) — The Jailbird, as it is called in T&T, was seen and heard almost daily on both islands. In Trinidad it is a backyard bird, whereas the Tobago race seems to prefer mature forests. PLAIN ANTVIREO (Dysithamnus mentalis) — An individual of this unobtrusive species was seen at the AWNC, and a pair was seen along Niplig Trace on Tobago. WHITE-FRINGED ANTWREN (Formicivora grisea) — This confiding species was seen every day on Tobago, always foraging at mid-level or lower in scrub. WHITE-BELLIED ANTBIRD (Myrmeciza longipes) — (H) An elusive, terrestrial species, its distinctive, falling trill was heard clearly on several occasions as we hiked the trails at the AWNC and later along Las Lapas Trace, higher in the Northern Range.

Formicariidae (Antthrushes) BLACK-FACED ANTTHRUSH (Formicarius analis) — The descending four-note call of this rail-like species tipped us off to its presence along the entrance drive of the AWNC, and a few members of the group saw this cryptically colored bird as it stood atop a fallen branch under thick vegetation.

Tyrannidae (Tyrant Flycatchers) FOREST ELAENIA (Myiopagis gaimardii) — A single bird was seen well along the AWNC entrance drive on our first morning walk YELLOW-BELLIED ELAENIA (Elaenia flavogaster) — This usually abundant, vocal species was difficult to find during our tour, but we recorded it on four days, on both islands, and had some good looks at it. OCHRE-BELLIED FLYCATCHER (Mionectes oleagineus) — Several individuals were studied from the veranda at the AWNC as they fed on berries in a Trema tree; their habit of flipping up one wing at a time is distinctive. SLATY-CAPPED FLYCATCHER (Leptopogon superciliaris) — During our visit to the AWNC, a pair of this species www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] p.12 Tropical Birding - Trip Report Trinidad & Tobago, January 2018

was nesting in hanging over the entrance drive. YELLOW-BREASTED FLYCATCHER (Tolmomyias flaviventris) — Its high pitched whistle was heard almost every day on Trinidad, and the species was finally observed at Cuffie River. FUSCOUS FLYCATCHER (Cnemotriccus fuscatus) — Good views of the "Prozac Flycatcher" were obtained at Cuffie River and environs. TROPICAL PEWEE (Contopus cinereus) — This common, vocal Trinidad species was heard on most days in Trinidad and seen on two days at the AWNC. PIED WATER-TYRANT (Fluvicola pica) — This little black-and-white pixie of a bird was observed near both the east and west coasts of Trinidad and near the Caroni Swamp, always near fresh water with aquatic vegetation. WHITE-HEADED MARSH TYRANT (Arundinicola leucocephala) — A striking bird – jet black with a white head -- that we saw at the Aripo Livestock Station and in Nariva Swamp. BROWN-CRESTED FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus tyrannulus) — Good views of this species were gotten at the Magdalena ponds, on LTI, and at Cuffie River. The pinkish base of the lower mandible helped us differentiate it from the lookalike Venezuelan Flycatcher on Tobago. VENEZUELAN FLYCATCHER (Myiarchus venezuelensis) — Seen well near the Cuffie River bridge and on the old Donkey Trace on Tobago. GREAT KISKADEE (Pitangus sulphuratus) — "Pour-toe-REE-koe!" Abundant; seen and heard everywhere in Trinidad in almost every habitat; absent from Tobago after briefly colonizing a few years ago. BOAT-BILLED FLYCATCHER (Megarynchus pitangua) — This kiskadee lookalike was seen and heard well at the AWNC. STREAKED FLYCATCHER (Myiodynastes maculatus) — Seen by the group that visited the piping-guan site in Grande Riviere. PIRATIC FLYCATCHER (Legatus leucophaius) — Seen by the group that visited the piping-guan site in Grande Riviere. (Tyrannopsis sulphurea) — Several were first heard squealing and then were spotted high in Moriche palms at Waller Field. TROPICAL (Tyrannus melancholicus) — The "TK" was widespread on both islands and was seen daily, mostly when perched on wires along roads. (Tyrannus dominicensis) — Seen at various locations on both islands, most often at low elevations and near the coast.

Cotingidae (Cotingas) BEARDED BELLBIRD (Procnias averano) — A "BOCK!" vocalizing bird was spotted and pointed out to our group by AWNC guide Liz Naipaul on the Discovery Trail; this species was heard almost every day while we were in the Northern Range, and on some mornings one perched up on a dead snag downhill from the veranda.

Pipridae (Manakins) WHITE-BEARDED MANAKIN (Manacus manacus) — Seen displaying at their lek on the Discovery Trail at the AWNC, with singles observed a few times elsewhere. BLUE-BACKED MANAKIN (Chiroxiphia pareola) — Seen on Tobago near Cuffie River and along Gilpin Trace. GOLDEN-HEADED MANAKIN (Ceratopipra erythrocephala) — Seen displaying at their lek near the Discovery Trail at the AWNC, eating fig berries in the mango tree at the Oilbird Cave trailhead, and as singles elsewhere.

Vireonidae (Vireos, -Babblers, and Erpornis) RED-EYED VIREO (Vireo olivaceus) — (H) A single bird was heard calling along Gilpin Trace as we headed back to the trailhead. SCRUB GREENLET (Hylophilus flavipes) — This vociferous species that lacks field marks was heard often and observed several times at various locations on Tobago, especially around Cuffie River. GOLDEN-FRONTED GREENLET (Pachysylvia aurantiifrons) — Excellent views were obtained of a bird of this common species low in a tree at the AWNC. RUFOUS-BROWED PEPPERSHRIKE (Cyclarhis gujanensis) — This "ghost of the canopy" was heard every day in Trinidad and was finally seen well at Temple-in-the-Sea. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] p.13 Tropical Birding - Trip Report Trinidad & Tobago, January 2018

Hirundinidae (Swallows) GRAY-BREASTED MARTIN (Progne chalybea) — Common, seen overhead every day in Trinidad. WHITE-WINGED SWALLOW (Tachycineta albiventer) — Seen on both islands, always near water; those seen in Tobago, such as at the Bon Accord ponds, were notable because they colonized Tobago only about five years ago. SOUTHERN ROUGH-WINGED SWALLOW (Stelgidopteryx ruficollis) — Although common in Trinidad, our group paid scant attention to this species except to examine an individual that perched on a telephone line near Orange Grove.

Troglodytidae (Wrens) RUFOUS-BREASTED WREN (Pheugopedius rutilus) — Decent views were enjoyed of a pair of this lovely but skulking wren along Gilpin Trace, and a lone bird was viewed on the Old Donkey Trail. HOUSE WREN (Troglodytes aedon) — Commonly seen almost every day on both islands.

Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies) YELLOW-LEGGED THRUSH (Turdus flavipes) — Views of both males and females of this normally canopy- dwelling species were obtained as they foraged on a hillside and along the stream next to Gilpin Trace. COCOA THRUSH (Turdus fumigatus) — Seen most days at the AWNC feeders and on the AWNC trails. SPECTACLED THRUSH (Turdus nudigenis) — This common backyard species was seen on most days on both islands. WHITE-NECKED THRUSH (Turdus albicollis) — Several views were enjoyed of this "shadow lover" at the AWNC, and close, lengthy views were enjoyed as a few ground-feeding birds allowed a close approach on Gilpin Trace.

Mimidae ( and Thrashers) TROPICAL ( gilvus) — Abundant and conspicuous on both islands, seen every day.

Parulidae (New World Warblers) TROPICAL PARULA (Setophaga pitiayumi) — A dedicated, prolonged effort succeeded in coaxing a singing male of this resident species into the open in a treetop at Las Lapas Trace, near the Textel site in Trinidad. YELLOW WARBLER (Setophaga petechia) — This migrant from North America was seen mostly in mangroves along Trinidad's west coast. AMERICAN REDSTART (Setophaga ruticilla) — This migrant from North America was seen on three days, on both islands, in forested areas. NORTHERN WATERTHRUSH (Parkesia noveboracensis) — This migrant from North America was seen on both islands, usually in forested swamps or along streams; their sharp chip notes were especially notable coming from the mangroves in the Caroni Swamp. MASKED YELLOWTHROAT (Geothlypis aequinoctialis) — The best possible view was enjoyed of a bird of this species at Orange Grove that allowed a close approach; crippling views were gotten through the scope as it continued to sing for several minutes.

Thraupidae ( and Allies) BANANAQUIT (Coereba flaveola) — The "BQ" was abundant everywhere on both islands as well as on LTI. BICOLORED CONEBILL ( bicolor) — A pair of this mangrove-loving species was seen in a bare treetop during a shower at Carli Bay, Trinidad. WHITE-LINED (Tachyphonus rufus) — Abundant on both islands, seen almost daily. RED-CROWNED ANT-TANAGER (Habia rubica) — Great views of both sexes were enjoyed during our first day's exploration of the AWNC entrance drive. SILVER-BEAKED TANAGER (Ramphocelus carbo) — The plush-headed male of this very common species (Trinidad only) was a group favorite. BLUE-GRAY TANAGER (Thraupis episcopus) — Seen every day on both islands; the Tobago race is more intensely colored than the Trinidad race. PALM TANAGER (Thraupis palmarum) — Seen every day on both islands, this species has colonized Tobago only in recent decades. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] p.14 Tropical Birding - Trip Report Trinidad & Tobago, January 2018

TURQUOISE TANAGER (Tangara mexicana) — Small flocks of this gregarious, colorful species were seen in fruiting trees at the AWNC and along Blanchisseuse Road. BAY-HEADED TANAGER (Tangara gyrola) — Seen well, almost always single birds, in trees at various locations in the Northern Range, including at the AWNC. BLUE (Dacnis cayana) — A pair of this lovely species was observed as they fed on tiny berries in the Trema tree just off the veranda at the AWNC. (Chlorophanes spiza) — Seen constantly at the AWNC feeders and a few times at other locations in the Northern Range. (Cyanerpes caeruleus) — Those gaudy yellow legs look hand painted! Seen almost daily at the AWNC feeders as well as infrequently elsewhere in Trinidad's Northern Range. RED-LEGGED HONEYCREEPER (Cyanerpes cyaneus) — A small flock of this species was spotted as the birds nectared on red flowers of a treetop bromeliad near the Gilpin Trace trailhead. BLUE-BLACK GRASSQUIT (Volatinia jacarina) — The "Johnny-jump-up" was seen commonly in grassy and shrubby habitats on both islands. RUDDY-BREASTED SEEDEATER (Sporophila minuta) — Wesley produced at least one of these minute birds at the Aripo Livestock Station. SOOTY GRASSQUIT (Tiaris fuliginosus) — A single male of this elusive, forest-inhabiting species was pointed out by Wesley as it sat in view briefly at the Textel site atop Morne Bleu in Trinidad's Northern Range. BLACK-FACED GRASSQUIT (Tiaris bicolor) — Tobago only; this tiny, lawn-loving species was finally added to our list during our last-day visit to Fort James in Plymouth, where half a dozen birds were observed foraging on the closely cropped grass. ( flaveola) — A few birds of this species were observed near the 85-foot-tall statue of Lord Hanuman in Carapachaima, and a few individuals were seen elsewhere along Trinidad's west coast. GRAYISH SALTATOR (Saltator coerulescens) — This inconspicuous songster was surprisingly easy to find during our trip, especially in short trees and shrubs at Orange Grove and along the west coast of Trinidad.

Icteridae (Troupials and Allies) YELLOW-HOODED BLACKBIRD (Chrysomus icterocephalus) — Males and females of this eye-popping species were observed near wet fields and marshes in eastern Trinidad, especially in Nariva Swamp. RED-BREASTED MEADOWLARK (Sturnella militaris) — Our best view of this striking bird was at the Aripo Livestock Station. CARIB GRACKLE ( lugubris) — Common and widespread, the former Lesser Antillean Grackle was seen almost daily on both islands; inexplicably, it remains absent (thankfully so, to my way of thinking) from Cuffie River. (Molothrus bonariensis) — Common and widespread, this nest parasite was seen almost daily on both islands. GIANT COWBIRD (Molothrus oryzivorus) — Common but local, this nest parasite of caciques, orioles, and oropendolas was seen on two days, once at the AWNC and once at the Aripo Livestock Station. YELLOW ORIOLE (Icterus nigrogularis) — This blazing yellow species with its black throat was conspicuous around at the AWNC and at suburban sites in Trinidad. MORICHE (EPAULET) ORIOLE (Icterus cayanensis) — Amazing views were enjoyed of two individuals of this rare black-and-yellow species in the grove of Moriche palms at Waller Field. YELLOW-RUMPED CACIQUE (Cacicus cela) — Several individuals of this species were spotted during our first few days in Trinidad, and later we enjoyed studying a nesting colony of this species in a Hispaniolan Pine in the hamlet of Morne La Croix. CRESTED OROPENDOLA (Psarocolius decumanus) — A conspicuous colonial blackbird seen every day on both islands; the pendular nests sometimes exceeded three feet in length.

Fringillidae (, , and Allies) VIOLACEOUS (Euphonia violacea) — Tiny, with gorgeous color scheme of brilliant yellow and purple (male), this species was seen almost every day in Trinidad.

Estrildidae (Estrildids) www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] p.15 Tropical Birding - Trip Report Trinidad & Tobago, January 2018

COMMON WAXBILL (Estrilda astrild) — A small flock of this species, probably derived from escaped cagebird, was observed with Blue-black Grassquits in tall grass at Orange Grove.

TOTAL NUMBER OF BIRD SPECIES: about 200 (including 7 heard only)

MAMMALS, REPTILES & AMPHIBIANS

Mammals Red-rumped Agouti (Dasyprocta leporina), at the AWNC Red-tailed Squirrel (Sciurus granatensis), several times on both islands Common Opossum (Didelphis marsupialis), on a platform feeder at the AWNC Small Asian (Herpestes javanicus), running across the road at Orange Grove Greater White-lined Bat (Saccopteryx bilineata), at night at the platform feeders at the AWNC Pallas's Long-tongued Bat (Glossophaga soricina), at the AWNC hummingbird feeders at night

Reptiles & Amphibians Cane Toad (Bufo marinus) Common Ameiva (Ameiva ameiva) Cook’s Tree Boa (Corallus hortulanus) Golden Tegu, "Matte" (Tupinambis teguixin) House Gecko (Thecadactylus rapicauda) Richard's Anole (Anolis richardii) Spectacled Caiman (Caiman crocodilus) Yellow-throated Frog (Mannophryne trinitatis)

BUTTERFLIES

89 Butterfly (Callicore aurelia) Aetolus Lycid (Aeolus Stripestreak) (Arawacus aetolus) Blurry-striped Longtail (Chioides catillus albius) Cattle Heart (Parides neophilus) Cloudless Sulphur (Phoebus sennae) Coolie (Red Anartia) (Anartia amathea) Cramer's 88 (Diaethria clymena) Flambeau (Julia) (Dryas iulia) Gold Rim (Battus polydamus) Great Southern White (Ascia monuste) Hermes Satyr (Hermeuptychia hermes) Illioneus Giant-Owl (Owl) (Caligo illioneus) Iphiclus Sister (Adelpha iphiclus) Long-tailed Skipper (Urbanus proteus) Mangrove Buckeye (Junonia genoveva) Monarch (Danaus plexippus) Morpho (Emperor Morpho) (Morpho peleides) Orcus Checkered Skipper (Pyrgus orcus) Penelope Satyr (Cissia penelope) Postman (Heliconius melpomene) Red Rim (Biblis hyperia) Sweet Oil (Mechanitis isthmia) Venusta Yellow (Eurema venusta) West Indian Buckeye (Junonia evarete) www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] p.16 Tropical Birding - Trip Report Trinidad & Tobago, January 2018

White Peacock (Anartia jatrophae)

OTHER CREATURES

Trinidad Chevron Tarantula (Psalmopoeus cambridgei)

Purple Honeycreeper

Barred Antshrike www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] p.17