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Bessie Head South Africa, 1937-1986 Serowe Village of the Rain Wind

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Bessie Head South Africa, 1937-1986 Serowe Village of the Rain Wind Bessie Head South Africa, 1937-1986 Serowe Village of the Rain Wind 1981, EN, Botswana Bessie Head has used all her skills as a novelist to show an African community going about its daily work both now and in the last hundred years. Serowe is, in any case, one of the best-known villages in Africa because it is the capital of the people ruled by the Khamas, of whom Tshekedi and Seretse are the most famous. But, as in Ronald Blythe’s Akenfield, her central intention is to recall a community and its historythrough the words of the thatcher and the schoolteacher, the potter and the preacher, the market woman and the ploughman. Here are the actual words of nearly one hundred inhabitants representing all aspects of a community. In Africa where most people still have strong village connections, readers will find instant parallels and contrasts with their own communities. Table of contents (51) Foreword: by Ronald Blythe* Introduction General Portrait of Serowe · Things Unique to Village Life PART ONE: The Era of Khama the Great (1875-1923) 1: Khama the Great 2: Traditional History Ngwato Creates the Bamangwato Nation · How the Phuti* Became the Totem of the Bamangwato 3: Early Primary Education under the Trees 4: Religion A history of the London Missionary Society Church 5: The Chief’s Kgotla The Chief Khama’s Exhortation to His People: Laws and Regulations which have been disobeyed · The Role of the Old Men at the Kgotla 6: Self-Sufficient Skills 7: Wagon Transport 8: The Breakdown of Family Life 9: The End of an Era 10: Sekgoma II, the Son of Khama the Great (told by Grant Kgosi) PART TWO: The Era of Tshekedi Khama (1926-1959) 11: Tshekedi Khama 12: The Building of Moeng College 13: The Principles of Moeng College 14: Regiment Labour over the Years 15: Regiment Labour for the Serowe Primary Schools 16: The Establishment of Pilikwe Village by Tshekedi Khama 17: The Zeerust Refugees 18: The Traders 19: Modern and Traditional Medical Services The Hospital · The Establishment of Antenatal Clinics · Traditional Medicine 20: The End of an Era PART THREE: The Swaneng Project (1963-) Patrick van Rensburg 21: Patrick van Rensburg 22: The Volunteer Staff of Swaneng Hill School 23: The Brigades The Farmers’ Brigade · The Tannery Brigade · The Builders’ Brigade · The Textile Brigade · The Printers’ Brigade 24: Swaneng Consumers’ Co-operative Society 25: The Boiteko Project Introduction · Boiteko Pottery · Boiteko Women Epilogue: A Poem to Serowe Appendix: The Founding of the British Bechuanaland Protectorate, 1885-95 Bibliography Foreword by Ronald Blythe* ≡ Ronald Blythe (born 6 November 1922) is an English writer, essayist and editor, best known for his work Akenfield: Portrait of an English Village (1969), an account of agricultural life in Suffolk from the turn of the century to the 1960s. He writes a long-running and considerably praised weekly column in the Church Times entitled Word from Wormingford. felt as I came to the end of this unforgettable book that I had understood Inot only Serowe, the huge Botswanan village which Bessie Head describes, but for the first time certain things about Africa itself which had never before found their way into literature. A new light floods in on the scene when, early on, she quietly states that Africa was never ‘the Dark Continent’ to African people. From this moment I knew I was seeing and hearing things which made sense at last of much of what has occurred there this past century. Rarely has the cadence and the intelligence of the four generations which lived through these years been caught so accurately or so movingly. These black voices tell of a remarkable transition from the ancient tribal culture to a British Christian culture, and cover the whole period between the setting up and the dismantling of white colonialism. It is not only what they say but the tone in which they say it which tell one immediately that here are truths and complexities which have escaped the usual records. Bessie Head writes quite undefensively and with vivid power. Those who have told her what they witnessed during the reign of Khama the Great, the days of Tshekedi, Seretse and his English wife, and the time when Patrick van Rensburg came to Serowe, have a way of speaking which bares the soul of their nation. Via this exceptional ear and eye, the Christianization of the Batswana often struck me as being something akin to that of a Saxon kingdom by royal scholars – Alfred’s Wessex, for example; and Bessie Head’s account of how her adopted people were preserved from slavery by, of all historical incidents, the Jameson Raid adds to the unique quality of this African story. She says that the advance of the Serowans has been the reality of their village life and that their tale is a beautiful one. Her way of retelling it through their talk is certainly most beautiful – though tough and accurate too. Ronald Blythe The Republic of Botswana: Map taken from J. Mutero Chirenje, Chief Kgama and His Times (Rex Collings, London, 1978) The distribution of the tribes in Botswana: Map taken from Isaac Schapera, A Handbook of Tswana Custom (Oxford University Press, London, 1938) Dedication or Jacqueline Alberti and Paddy Kitchen, and the people of Serowe, with Flove… Acknowledgements he books and papers I have consulted, referred to and quoted from Tduring the course of my work are listed in the bibliography (pp. 199- 200). Special permission was granted by Sekgoma T. Khama to quote from the Khama Papers ‘Khama’s Exhortation to his People’. My special thanks are due to Mary Kibel, Thato Matome and Bosele Sianana, who contributed advice and aid for all my work. For permission to reproduce the photographs on pp. 1, 73 and 133, the publishers gratefully acknowledge the Botswana National Archives (Khama the Great); the Botswana Information Service (Tshekedi Khama); and Sandy Grant (Patrick van Rensburg). Introduction General Portrait of Serowe His name was Harold M. Telmaque. His poem, the title of which I cannot remember, appeared unexpectedly in a magazine of the sort I used to read then – hoarsely and violently asserting blackness. I cannot survive in the heat of the moment, and I remember the peace with which my mind latched on to one line of Telmaque’s poem… Where is the hour of the beautiful dancing of birds in the sun- wind? All time stands still here and in the long silences the dancing of birds fills the deep blue, Serowe sky. Serowe people note everything about nature: “The birds are playing,” they say, more prosaically. And indeed there seems to be no sense at all in the bird activity in the sky, other than playing and dancing. And why is it always one bird-call I hear at dawn? It is always one bird that starts the day for me, outside my window, and he’s not saying anything very properly – just a kind of hesitant ‘peep- peep’ as though he’s half scared at opening his eyes. But the light outside, at dawn, is unearthly too – a kind of white light; an immense splash of it along an endless horizon. This white light quickly pulsates into a ball of molten gold and here in the sunrise, you can time the speed of the earth’s rotation as the enormous fiery ball arises. It is barely a minute before it breaks clear of the flat horizon. It scares me. I say to myself: “What the hell am I doing on something that moves so fast?” At some stage I began to confuse Telmaque’s lines with lines of my own, and I renamed Serowe the village of the rain-wind. We have more drought years than rain years. During my ten-year stay here, the two or three seasons when it rained for a whole month in one long, leaden downpour were so exceptional and stunning that I cannot even describe them. I am more familiar with the rain pattern of drought years. It rains sparsely, unpredictably, fiercely and violently in November, December and January. Before the first rains fall, it gets so hot that you cannot breathe. Then one day the sky just empties itself in a terrible downpour. After this, the earth and sky heave alive and there is magic everywhere. The sky becomes a huge backdrop for the play of the rain – not ordinary rain but very peculiar, teasing rain. A ring of low blue hills partly surrounds the village; at least, they look blue, misty, from a distance. But if sunlight and shadow strike them at a certain angle, you can quite clearly see their flat and unmysterious surfaces. They look like the uncombed heads of old Batswana men, dotted here and there with the dark shapes of thorn trees. It is on this far-off horizon that all through December and January, the teasing summer rain sways this way and that. The wind rushes through it and you get swept about from head to toe by a cold, fresh rain-wind. That’s about all you ever get in Serowe most summers – the rain-wind but not the rain. Even so, summertime in Serowe can be an intensely beautiful experience, intense because with just a little rain everything comes alive all at once; over-eager and hungry. A little rain makes the earth teem with insects, tumbling out of their long hibernation. There are swarms of flies, swarms of mosquitoes, and swarms of moths – sometimes as big as little birds. Crickets and frogs appear overnight in the pools around the village: there is a heavy, rich smell of breathing earth everywhere.
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