WEST MAINLAND - MAINLAND - STENNESS

t th h

g destroyed during the 19 cen - i r y

p tury. There is another broch o c

n near the Lochside picnic area w o r (HY310140) on the east side C of the .

Tradition The at Bigswell (HY345105) has the reputation of having healing properties, especially at Beltane (May Day) and mid - summer. Its curative waters were thought to be effective against madness and epilepsy. STENNESS (ON Stein-nes , isolated standing stones , The well was apparently once Stone Point) is on the North including the Watchstone and much bigger and had steps side of the Hills facing the Barnhouse Stone as well down into it. The potency is the centre of the West as Unstan . The major said to be greater if the afflict - Mainland . Hills, moors, site at the is ed person first walks clock - lochs, farms and ancient histo - currently being excavated and wise round the Standing ry all converge here. Several of dramatically shows just how Stones , then around the well, 's best ancient monu - much may yet to be revealed before partaking of its waters. ments are in this parish, as from times. Aerial view of Cummi Howe,The Bush, the Brig o’Waithe , Unstan and the Loch of Stenness Bluebells in profusion. There is Wildlife The saltmarsh areas well as parts of the Lochs of On the ridge of Bigswell Hill a a car park, and local people now around the Brig o’Waithe are STENNESS Stenness and . Iron Age Cummi Howe (ON large bonfire used to be lit maintain the plantations. full of wild flowers in summer, ATTRACTIONS Kuml Haug , prehistoric every Johnsmas Eve including Thrift, Silverweed, Stenness lies at mound, HY283103) is a large (Midsummer Eve). Fires like The Brig o’Waithe , crosses the Sea Aster, Sea Spurrey and the Heart of Neolithic Orkney , broch mound facing the Bay this were kindled on several mouth of the Loch of Sea Plantain. Common Seals Tormiston Mill & Burn a World Heritage Site, which of Ireland. It is in a good hills in Orkney and the prac - Stenness at The Bush and is a lie up on rocks, but sometimes Barnhouse Stone comprises the Ring of defensive position, with easy tice continued in until favourite Sea Trout fishing may be seen surfing on the Standing Stones Brodgar , the Standing Stones access to the sea , while the recently. There are also leg - location. Nearby, the first incoming tide. Otters are Barnhouse Village of Stenness and Maeshowe adjacent tidal Dead Sand is a ends of fires being lit at British civilian death by much shyer but also frequent Watchstone chambered cairn, as well as fine sheltered place to pull up Maeshowe and the Standing enemy action in World War II the area. Ness of Brodgar in Sandwick . The boats. Big Howe, near the Stones . One idea is that occurred in 1939 when an surrounding area includes the Standing Stones , was the site household fires were relit at onlooker was killed by a stray Wading birds feed on exposed Dyke o’Sean Barnhouse complex, several of a large broch until it was midsummer from sacred fires. bomb while German planes muddy places during the ebb, Brodgar RSPB Reserve Happy Valley is a quiet haven and makes a delightful stroll in springtime raided . but may be more closely Bigswell Happy Valley (HY327106), Happy Valley was created by Edwin Harrold, Bluebells at Happy Valley The waters of Bigswell are curative Unstan chambered cairn who lived in the house there Brig o’Waithe for many years. This oasis of Loch of Stenness woodland and flowers amid a virtually treeless landscape, The Bush proves what can be grown in Cummi Howe broch Orkney. It benefits from the Clouston viewpoint shelter of the Burn of Millquoy viewpoint Russadale. The meandering Lochside viewpoint path along the stream is espe - cially pretty in spring with

264 265 WEST MAINLAND - STENNESS MAINLAND - STENNESS

the Standing Stones area is on foot. Apart from the archaeo - logical sites the lochs and their margins are home to many breeding birds in summer, while in winter thousands of wildfowl come to stay. The roadside verges and lochsides also hold a diverse range of wild flowers and insects .

Tormiston Mill sells tickets for Maeshowe and has an excellent shop (HY298110) there is a fine views across the Loch of panoramic view over the lochs Stenness to the Ring of to Brodgar and beyond, while Brodgar . Otters are some - from the top of the hill, near times encountered here, espe - Hoyview (HY298107) there cially in the gloaming. Apart is an equally pleasing vista of from the broch mound already the Hoy Hills and . mentioned there is an ancient chapel site, St Mary’s Kirk Aerial view of the Ness of Brodgar with the Loch of Stenness on the left and the Loch of Harray on the right Along the Stoneyhill Road, at (HY311143) nearby. observed at high tide while Brodgar fence. The wetland tive return routes. There are Lochside, there is a parking they roost at the top of the areas are particularly good for excellent panoramic views of place and picnic site which has Perhaps the best way to visit shore. Herons and wildfowl and waders. Crops the West Mainland , Hoy and Cormorants also favour the designed to provide winter Scapa Flow . A good impres - area, no doubt for the same food for passerines are grown sion can be gained of the reason as anglers. There is on the drier parts. Orkney landscape. space to park off the road west Standing Stones Hotel of the Brig. Walks and viewpoints As The moorland may afford ATEWAY TO THE EART OF EOLITHIC RKNEY well as archaeology, Stenness sights of Hen Harriers, - G H N O - RSPB Brodgar Reserve offers a variety of interesting Merlins, Short-eared Owls includes land north of walks. Several hill tracks can and other birds . The road Brodgar Farm to the Dyke be followed into the moor to which goes over the Stenness o’Sean west of the main road the top of the Ward Hill Hill has a number of fine and outside the Ring of (268m), with various alterna - viewpoints. From Clouston

Feeding the hens at Nether Bigging in the 1950s The Burn of Heddle with Lesser Celandine in flower

Overlooking the Loch of Stenness , the Standing Stones Hotel is ideal as a base for exploring Orkney. It is located next to the “Heart of Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site”. The 17 rooms are all en-suite , while the Restaurant has a lovely view over the loch to the Ring of Brodgar . Boats and outboards can be hired for Trout fishing . Standing Stones Hotel, Stenness , Orkney KW16 3JX Tel (01856) 850449, Fax (01856) 851262 www.standingstoneshotel.com

266 267 268 269 STENNESS - MAESHOWE MAESHOWE - ORKAHOWE OR THE MAIDEN ’S HOWE

about the same in height. A tapered orthostat faces each corner buttress giving an impression of space and strength. The original roof design and height is unknown, but it may have been 6m high.

There are three cells within the walls which were sealed with stone blocks now on the floor, while the entrance passage, 14.5m long and 1.4m high, is lined with huge slabs, the largest weighing over 30 tonnes. When opened in 1861, Excavator’s sketches of Maeshowe from 1861 the building was empty bar a Brae . Since no artefacts were Neolithic Cathedral , rather than piece of skull, and some found in 1861, little can be a simple tomb. horse bones, but this was cer - deduced about its usage. The The interior of Maeshowe showing two cells, with blocking stones and the northeast buttress tainly not the first such incur - surrounding bank was rebuilt While the other Maeshowe - MAESHOWE (HY315128) , Maeshowe was a meeting place (HY311166). There are also sion. The Vikings visited on top of an original drystone type chambered are all Maeshowe during the 12 th cen - wall in early Norse times, sug - very well constructed, only considered to be one of the for young lovers. Another tale several farm names ending in - th finest architectural achieve - says that “at one time young girls may, so this could well be right, tury and have left one of the gesting possible reuse in the 9 Maeshowe itself is truly mon - ments of , would take some ashes to the top if rather mundane. largest collections of runes any - century. umental with its huge slabs of is Orkney’s largest and finest of the mound at full moon and where, as well as carvings of a stone lining the passage. Each chambered cairn. The urinate on them” . The age and The mound, 35m in diameter dragon, a serpent and a walrus. Evidence of sockets for large cell is roofed by a single mas - Orkneyinga Saga refers to veracity of these stories are and 7m high, consists mostly of standing stones around the sive flagstone weighing up to Orkahaugr , ON The Mound open to the reader to decide. packed stones and clay, with an Maeshowe was built on a lev - outside of the mound only adds 30 tonnes. After 5,000 years of the Orks. inner layer of stones around the elled area of ground with a sur - mystery to the original design there has been little settlement Another derivation may be ON chamber. A stone and concrete rounding bank and , peat and purpose. Carvings on and only a few of the horizon - The name Maeshowe may Mathhaugr , meadow mound. roof was installed after it was from the bottom of which has some of the stones very similar tal slabs have cracked, attest - derive from ON Maers-howe , There is a Maesquoy about 3mi cleared out in 1861. Before been dated at 2750BC, which to those found at Skara Brae ing to the competence of the Maiden’s Mound. There is a north of Maeshowe on the this it was rather higher in pro - makes it contemporary with are also of interest. The over - engineers who built the cairn. persistent tradition that Netherbrough Road file. Other unrecorded repairs the Standing Stones and Skara riding impression is of a to the outer end of the entrance Maeshowe is surrounded by a circular ditch and bank passage were also made, which Aerial view of Maeshowe in the snow The large blocking stone means that the original entrance layout is unknown.

Maeshowe was included in the first Ancient Monuments Act of 1882, and has been in state care since 1910. It was designed and constructed with great attention to detail, the large dressed slabs being skill - fully set together and finished by master stonemasons. The chamber is 4.5m square and

270 271 MAESHOWE - W INTER SOLSTICE MAESHOWE - ORKAHOWE

illuminates the passage and before setting, but for the next interior of Maeshowe for sev - 40 days it does not reappear in eral weeks on either side of the this fashion, as it is too low in solstice. Since the original lay - the sky. out of the outer part of the passage is unknown it is A similar alignment can be unclear how present events observed about 40 days before differ from those of 5,000 and after the winter solstice, years ago. when the setting sun disap - pears behind the Cuilags on The large blocking stone at Hoy and then briefly reap - the entrance seems designed pears below the Kame. Thus to be shut from the inside, but there are at least five days also would leave a gap of when observations can deter - about 20cm to allow light mine the actual shortest day. through. The floor of the pas - sage slopes upwards, so that Maeshowe was most carefully water drains outwards placed in its environment. towards a drain. Some col - Today it is impossible to lects at the entrance and acts devine the original layout, as a reflector, greatly increas - since many standing stones ing the illumination of the and other features have been interior. destroyed, and thus further alignments may well have From mid-November until existed. What is clear is that mid-January the sun shines the builders had a definite into the chamber at sunset vision and purpose. Midwinter sunset illuminating the passage and floor and lights up the back wall, Ceremonies were undoubted - About 3 weeks before and after the solstice the sun shines straight in Winter solstice It has for in a dramatic fashion. Much gradually creeping down the ly held here, which would have a shelter, and are known to there as a young man. There long been known that the set - speculation has been pub - passage and across the floor. included those for the dead, have done so on several occa - is no better time to visit and ting sun shines directly down lished over the years about At the winter solstice the shaft but also the living. sions. The author was first view this structure than on a the passage of Maeshowe at this. of light hits the back wall at introduced to Maeshowe at winter afternoon with a clear the winter solstice, illuminat - Recent research by Victor about 14:40GMT, and by Vikings did not seem in the midwinter by his grandfather, sunset. ing the back wall and passage Reijs has shown that the sun 15:05 the sun has set behind least worried about using it as who himself had been taken the Ward Hill of Hoy . On the winter solstice the north wall of the passage is brilliantly illuminated The sun hitting the back wall 12 th January sun on blocking stone “Flashing” on 2 nd December As the winter solstice approaches, the sun sets fur - ther south until eventually it disappears behind the Ward Hill of Hoy . For several days it reappears some minutes later on the north side of the hill, sending a beam of light down the other side of the passage and lighting up a patch on the back wall. About 20 days before the shortest day the sun briefly flashes

272 273 THE MAESHOWE RUNES MAESHOWE - ORKAHOWE

treasure were being told, as in "Haakon singlehanded bore treas - ures from this howe" . The very long inscription on the monolith to the northwest of the entrance passage describes how “Treasure was carried away three nights before they broke this mound.” In other words a lame excuse for the Vikings not finding any of what they would call treasure.

Women were also discussed, as in No9, “Ingibjorg the fair No9 “Ingibjorg, the fair widow. Many a woman has gone stooping in here. A great show-off. Erlingr.” widow” . “Many a woman has RUNES Maeshowe has one of because of the of the Runes were used throughout come stooping in here. A great the largest groups of Norse sandstone. Fragments only the Germanic lands, but were show-ff. Erlingr” . Less polite, ” . d

runic inscriptions known. They remain of what must have been probably developed in n

“yorny fucked. Helgi carved.” Or u o

are common all over a larger number. Graffiti writing Scandinavia. m quite mundane, “Vermundr s i h

Scandinavia and the Norse has presumably been a popular t carved.” No4 Continuation to right e k colonies, with the earliest dating pastime for many years, but is The Maeshowe runes were o r b

th from about 200AD. The usually regarded as a mess to be carved in the 12 century, some y e h t

younger fu zark was developed cleared up, rather than some - by returning crusaders. There e r o f thing to marvel at. are about 30 inscriptions, many e about 700AD and was the form b

s t of runes used by the Vikings . of the style, “Thorfinn wrote these h g i n

Many inscriptions are on arte - Runes developed as a way of runes” . Some gave the father’s e e r h

carving letters into wood, bone name, or a nickname, others are t facts and tell who carved the y a

runes. Runic memorial stones or stone using a or similar by women and several are about w a

d are also common, often using implement. They represent them. e i r r

most of the Latin alphabet as a existing boulders to commemo - c

s required by . There Clearly the Vikings were inter - a

rate the exploits of the dead. w

e r

are many variations in the runic ested in Maeshowe and left u s a e

Few such inscriptions have been alphabet, but most of the char - inscriptions on at least one other r T

acters have Latin equivalents. occasion, when stories about . found in Orkney, possibly y a

No10 “ yorny fucked. Helgi carved” - on the right hand side of the northwest cell w a

d e i

No32 “...treasure was hidden here”;“Happy is he who can find the great wealth”;“Haakon alone carried treasure from this mound ” No5 “Vermundr carved” - on northwest buttress to right of long inscription r r a c

s a w

e r u s a e r t

t a h t

, y a s

I

h c i h w

e u r t

e b

l l i w

t a h T

4 o N “

274 275 THE MAESHOWE RUNES MAESHOWE - ORKAHOWE

men had just been to Jerusalem and the crusades, visiting Venice along the way. Whatever the thoughts of the artist, it looks fresh after over 850 years.

Below the dragon there is an animal which is probably a Common Seal, which would fit very well with the Norse name for Maeshowe. The fanciful have suggested that it may be an Otter or even a Walrus. Again there is common local agree - ment that it is indeed a selkie.

Further down an intricately knotted sea serpent, perhaps a “No20 The man who is most skilled in runes west of the ocean carved these runes with the which Gaukr Trandilssonr owned... kraaken appears almost to The “Maeshowe Dragon” Gaukr’s Axe No20 is on two must have remained in this fam - entrance passage is a very clear writhe. This worm-knot is of a separate blocks on the southeast ily for 5 generations. inscription which read, “That is similar standard to the dragon. side of the chamber. “The man a Viking...then came underneath Visitors must make up their who is most skilled in runes west of Tree Runes Some, including to this place”. own minds as to what these the ocean carved these runes with no20, have cryptic tree runes carvings may be intended to rep - the axe which Gaukr Trandilssonr which are easily deciphered by a Maeshowe Dragon The resent, but none can deny the owned south of the country numeric code based on the Maeshowe Dragon is a very craftsmanship and beauty of th [Iceland]”. fu zark , the runic alphabet. Little familiar Orkney icon, which has these 12 century graffiti. could the Viking graffiti writers been interpreted in various Today we strongly discourage The carver may have been of 1153 have realised how inter - ways. Most Orcadians consider such things, but at the same time Thorhallr Asgrimssom, accord - esting their runes would be that it is a mythical dragon. these Norsemen immeasurably ing to the Orkneyinga saga, cap - today! In the magnificent set - Some try to interpret it as a increased the interest of a visit to Maeshowe. tain of Earl Rognvald’s ship ting of this 5,000 year-old tomb, motif depicting pagan beliefs A coiled serpent, perhaps a “Krakken” when they returned in 1153 the Viking visitors seem not so being killed by a Christian No1 “That is a viking...then came underneath to this place” A Seal, an Otter or even a Walrus? from the Crusades. He was the far away. sword. great-great-grandson of Asgrimr Ellidtha-Grimssonr, Simple graffiti No1 is typical of This seems unlikely since the who is claimed to have killed many of the inscriptions. High Vikings had been converted for Gaukr Trandilson in the late on the southwest wall above the over 150 years. Others think it 900s in Iceland. If true the axe is a lion. That Rognvald and his The Maeshowe runes and their transliteration into Latinised equivalents

276 277 THE STANDING A N EOLITHIC LANDSCAPE

more of the , one of which he broke up. The threat of Court action finally stopped this 19 th century vandal, and the fallen stone was re-erected in 1906. Luckily the vast majority of landowners over the millen - nia have had great respect for our antiquities.

Midwinter sunrise over the Standing Stones of Stenness at about 09:50GMT The Odinstone had a hole in it The Standing Stones of Stenness in the late 18 th century - note the Odin Stone through which lovers clasped STANDING STONES OF built about 3000BC, which is Watchstone (HY305128, hands and swore their everlast - STENNESS (HY311125) older than many monu - 5.6m), from which date of the ing love. The Oath of Odin was originally formed a circle of 12 ments further south in Britain. winter solstice may be deter - then said and the contract was stones with a diameter of 30m mined on at least four different binding thereafter. The Stone and now comprises of 4 There are several possible lunar days. About ten days before was also credited with healing uprights, the tallest of which is and solar alignments visible and after midwinter the sun powers, in association with the over 5m high. The circle was from the here. In midsummer reappears momentarily in a well at Bigswell (HY345105), surrounded by a rock-cut ditch the sun rises over a notch in the notch on the north side of the especially at Beltane and mid - 2m deep, 7m wide and 44m in hills and sets far to the Ward Hill of Hoy , after setting summer. Recently the probable diameter which has become north over the Sandwick hills, behind its southern flank. sockets of both this stone and filled in over the years. while in midwinter it rises over another were found between Excavation revealed a square the Orphir Hills and sets over Another interesting alignment the Standing Stones and the setting of stones and bedding Hoy . During major lunar from the Watchstone occurs on Moonrise at the Standing Stones The Odin Stone before destruction Watch Stone. holes for further uprights, standstills (every 18.6 years) Up Helli Day, twelve days after either stone or wooden. the moon skims the Orphir Old New Year, still celebrated Since many monoliths are hills, and it seems likely that in with Up Helly Aa. clearly missing, interpretation Remains of domestic animals, observation of this event was On this date at the end of of the remaining stones including cattle, sheep and dog part of the Neolithic ritual. In January, the sun disappears remains problematical. This of bones as well as a human finger midwinter the moon rises over behind Cuilags just before sun - course only serves to add to the were found in the ditch. Sherds Maeshowe at sunset. set and then reappears for a mystery of the purpose and of were moment below the Kame of original design of the monu - also present. Radiocarbon dat - Watchstone At the Bridge of Hoy , before finally setting. ments. ing indicates that the circle was Brodgar, stands the Odinstone This stone was Midsummer sunset over the Loch of Stenness at about 22:20BST Springtime at the Watchstone destroyed in 1814 and used as The sun “flashing” at the Kame of Hoy - from Maeshowe lintels by the tenant farmer at Barnhouse, a ferrylouper who The sun “flashing” on the north flank of the Ward Hill of Hoy had become irritated by visitors to the stones Apparently the part with the hole was used as the pivot for a horse mill but was destroyed after WWII.

Luckily the selfish farmer was stopped from demolishing the rest of the Standing Stones , but only after he had toppled two

278 279 NESS OF BRODGAR - M ONUMENTAL BUILDINGS HISTORY & A RCHAEOLOGY e i

r paving and has stonework of gular stones which had been w o T

remarkable quality. The cross cut to shape was discovered on d r

u shaped interior includes the floor of two of the struc - g i S standing stones and in design tures. Perhaps these buildings is reminiscent of Maeshowe, would not have looked so with which the entrance seems unfamiliar to modern to be aligned. Orcadians.

All of these buildings have Free standing dressers and side chambers built into the central similar to walls, central fireplaces and those at Skara Brae were pres - are aligned roughly north to ent, but the scale of the build - south. Large quantities of ings and lack of evidence for Grooved Ware pottery as well long term occupation suggests as polished mace heads, carved that these were not houses for and incised stones, a carved living in. More probably they Brodgar Stone found in 1925 e i whale’s tooth and stones with were used for special occasions r w o T

peck marks have been found. as has already been suggested d r

Ness of Brodgar under excavation u at Barnhouse. There is a gen - g i NESS OF BRODGAR is Neolithic lozenges and strong similarity to the largest One of the most interesting eral lack of household rubbish S the narrow peninsula north of chevrons was found reused as building at nearby Barnhouse. finds was painted stones. and so far no small buildings the Bridge from which the the lid of a Bronze Age Probably iron based such as those at Skara Brae or area takes its name. In 1925 a burial. This was sent to the The site is bounded to the mixed with animal fat or egg the have been stone decorated with National Museum and quietly north and south by well built whites were used to create the discovered. Carved stone object forgotten. Luckily the field walls. The northern one is 4m yellow, red and brown coat - e i r ings. Some have scratched

w was never subjected to deep wide, while the southern one o T ploughing as at Barnhouse. is narrower at 2m, but survives designs which would have d r u

g been very obvious when new

i to a height of 1.7m. The walls S Following geophysical surveys were paved on the outside and and which resemble other in the Brodgar area, explorato - must have been most impres - incised Neolithic designs. ry trenches were dug in 2004. sive when built. They enclose These revealed the presence of an area roughly 125m by 75m. Evidence was found suggest - a large Neolithic settlement. ing that these buildings were Over the last few years several The largest building, structure at least partly roofed by flag - large Neolithic buildings have 10, is 20m square with walls stone slates in the same man - been revealed. They have a 5m thick. It is surrounded by ner as traditional Orkney Incised stone at the Ness of Brodgar houses. A layer of thin rectan - High quality stonework and paved path Southern Wall of Brodgar Painted stone Broken roofing slates North Wall of Brodgar e e i i r r w w o o T T

d d r r u u g g i i S S

280 281 THE RING OF BRODGAR A N EOLITHIC LANDSCAPE

tion but the most likely source is in Sandwick , near Vestrafiold, where quarried can still be seen. The sandstone beds here are of good quality and were clearly suitable for making standing stones . Two unused examples lie on the shore of the Loch of Stenness near Wasbister Barrow, suggesting that they may perhaps have The Ring of Brodgar from the northeast in 1815 by William Daniell been transported by water for the Bridge of Brodgar. There and notches in the hills. seen from Brodgar. The phe - part of the way. are also at least eight large Other outlying standing nomenon will be visible sever - mounds and smaller tumuli in stones may be markers for al times at full moon during The surrounding rock-cut the area, which are probably specific times of year also. 2005 to 2007. ditch is now 10m across but it Bronze Age . It seems that the The site was undoubtedly was originally 5m wide and Brodgar area remained impor - chosen for observation of the Geophysical scans of the area more than 3m deep, though tant during the 3 rd and 2 nd mil - moon. During major lunar have recently shown evidence now half silted up. lennia BC at least, and today it standstills, which occur every of settlement to the south on Radiocarbon dating from still has a magnetic attraction. 18.6 years, the moon appears the Ness of Brodgar, and to excavation of this infill places to skim the Orphir hills as the north in the Wasbister the digging of the ditch in the Winter sunrise at the Ring of Brodgar on a misty, frosty morning Alignments There are a vari - third millennium BC. THE RING OF BRODGAR 103.7m or 125 “megalithic ety of astronomical align - ments, which may have been (ON Bruar-gardr , Bridge yards” in diameter. Of the Despite its size there is no intended by the builders. Farm, HY294133) is one of original 60 stones, 27 remain trace of a surrounding earth - While many stones are miss - the finest stone circles any - standing, varying between work, although there may ing, simple observation sug - where. This great henge mon - 2.1m and 4.7m in height. The originally have been a bank gests several possibilities. ument is superbly situated on site is laid out very accurately around it originally. An esti - These relate to the solstices the Ness of Brodgar, in a con - in a perfect circle, with the mated 4,700 cubic metres of and the equinoxes as well as fluence of water and sky, sur - stones approximately 6 rock must have been shifted to times such as Beltane (Old rounded by the agricultural degrees apart. complete the excavation. May Day). At winter and heart of Orkney. The feeling There are two entrance cause - summer solstices the sunrises of spaciousness is enhanced by The source of the stones has ways, on the northwest and and sunsets align with stones the size of the circle, which is been the subject of specula - southeast sides. Autumn evening light at Brodgar Moonrise over the Loch of Harray from Brodgar Midsummer sunrise from the Ring of Brodgar Comet Stone About 140m to the southeast an isolated men - hir, the Comet Stone (ON Kuml-stein , Mound Stone), is set on a platform beside the stumps of two other stones. At spring and autumn equinoxes, viewed from here, the sun sets just glancing off the westernmost side of the Ring of Brodgar . Several other stones stand between this and

282 283 THE RING OF BRODGAR A N EOLITHIC LANDSCAPE

Midsummer sunset at the Ring of Brodgar from the Comet Stone some cryptographic Norse West Mainland . tree runes, thought to stand for Bjorn . The inscription was There are few more evocative found on the lower side of a places to be at dawn or sunset fallen stone when it was re- at any time of year than the erected in 1907, and may well Ring of Brodgar , a precinct to Aerial view of the Ring of Brodgar from the southeast be genuine. enjoy and perhaps where one area. A Bronze Age figure-of- embankment which crosses the ring itself, suggesting that can temporarily escape from eight house lies under one the Ness of Brodgar north of the area was in some way spe - There is nothing the author time itself. It really is special small mound, and it is proba - the ring, and is the traditional cial. likes better than a walk to visit whatever the season, The “Bjorn” runes ble that more Neolithic and parish boundary between around the Ring of Brodgar . time of day or weather. For later sites will also be found. Sandwick and Stenness . The Ring of Brodgar was The variety of lighting condi - total peace a calm, clear mid - Perhaps the most interesting There are also references to a taken into state guardianship tions at different seasons and summer dawn is perfectly sub - finding is that there is no evi - similar dyke to the south, sug - in 1906 and several fallen hours for which Orkney is lime, the only sound the birds, dence of any buildings in the gesting that the area around stones were re-erected. justly famous, is nowhere as the sun rises over the vicinity of the Ring of Brodgar the Ring of Brodgar was in Lightning strikes have since more evident than at this Rendall Hills. itself. some way special and demar - shattered two. There is very ancient site. The builders cer - cated from the land outside little graffiti to deface the tainly knew what they were Dyke o’Sean The Dyke the dykes. This is consistent monoliths, but one stone on doing when they chose the o’Sean is an ancient turf with the lack of finds within the North side is inscribed by position at the centre of the Details of the edge of a monolith The Dyke o’Sean and the Ring of Brodgar from Bookan Midwinter sunset from the Ring of Brodgar

284 285 NEOLITHIC SITES - U NSTAN TO BOOKAN A N EOLITHIC LANDSCAPE

The chamber is 6.6m long, farmer who would have pre - 1.9m at its widest and the ferred to have destroyed it. It walls survive to over 2m in is positioned such that about height. Opening onto the side 22 days before and after the of the chamber, the narrow winter solstice the setting sun passage is 6.5m long. There is lines up with this stone and a cell in the centre of the wall the Maeshowe passage as it opposite the entrance, and “flashes” on the north side of vertical flagstone stalls divide the Ward Hill of Hoy . The the main chamber into five stone is also in alignment with sections, three central and two the Watchstone and the centre shelved end compartments of the Ring of Brodgar . One of the small houses at Barnhouse resembles the older ones at Skara Brae which have end walls formed from large slabs set on edge. Barnhouse Village lies on the shore of the Loch of Harray A stone with carvings and about 100m from the runes was put there during Standing Stones . Despite restoration, and while the deep ploughing, enough of the runes may be Viking, the foundations remained to show An pot other shapes are more likely a remarkable series of build - 20 th century graffiti. A large ings. The small structures amount of human and animal closely resemble the older bone was found but unfortu - houses at Skara Brae with cen - nately it was not recorded. Of tral fireplaces, stone-lined Midsummer sunset at Barnhouse particular interest is the align - drains and bed spaces set into Unstan chambered cairn is unusual in having stalls and a side chamber ment of the entry passage with the walls . The larger house while entrance of one of the Unstan Cairn (HY283118), were also found at the Knap of the Watchstone and the large has echoes of Maeshowe , but A Grooved Ware pot other houses is in line with the near the Brig o'Waithe has Howar on Papay , as well as in house at Barnhouse Village measures 7m square on the the nearby Standing Stones . midwinter sun as it rises over given its name to a class of other stalled cairns of this across the loch. inside and has a large central The houses may have been the Heddle Hill. Neolithic pottery, Unstan type, including the Tomb of . used for communal activities Ware . When excavated in the Eagles in South Barnhouse Stone This related to those at the stone Bookan To the north of 1884, a large amount of this Ronaldsay , which are referred monolith (HY312122, 3.2m) Grooved Ware pottery was circle. The small house near - Brodgar the Ring of Bookan pottery was found. These to as the Orkney-Cromarty stands in a field near the main found here and the oldest date est the loch and the entrance bowls have a characteristic group. road, inside a rather mean- seems to be about 3200BC, to the large house are aligned Barnhouse Stone from southwest shape and decoration and looking fence put there by a making it contemporary with with midsummer sunset,

The small side chamber has an single upright slab set into its back wall “Runes” carved on a lintel Maeshowe on 21 st December from the line of the Barnhouse Stone

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well be another observation site for solar and lunar events.

To the southeast lie a series of mounds and a substantial quarry of unknown date which was presumably the source of stone for the nearby monuments and the buildings nearer Brodgar. Whether it was also a source for mono - The chambered cairn at the Ring of Bookan faces midsummer sunrise liths is unknown.

Bookan Cairn Facing the Ring of Brodgar , and about 400m southeast of the Ring of Bookan , little remains of Bookan chambered cairn (HY287141). It is unusual in that the interior divisions were wholly made up of vertically- placed flagstones set in a rec - tangular drystone building about 4m square with a short Drawing of Bookan chambered cairn after excavation in 1861 entrance passage. The main (HY283145) is of particular and to Sandwick suggest that chamber comprised a central Map of the “Heart of Neolithic Orkney” (excluding Skara Brae ) interest. This henge monu - the site may have played an area about 2m by 1.3m, with Deepdale stones The large ment has a ditch over 2m deep important part in the overall five compartments, each about 2m-high monolith at and 10m wide, which is par - Neolithic plan. 1m square, two on each side Deepdale (HY272118) over - tially filled-in. There is a cen - and one at the far end. looks the Loch of Stenness tral mound, about 42m by To the southwest a substantial and the Brig o’Waithe , with its 38m, with a much-robbed mound called Skae Frue is Each compartment could be flat side facing the Ring of chambered cairn at its centre , possibly a Bronze Age burial sealed off by means of an Brodgar . It may well have whose entrance faces the mid - mound, but it also lies in a upright flagstone. In addition played a role in midsummer summer sunrise. Sweeping direct line with the midwinter the cairn is surrounded by a sunrise observations, and views over Lochs of Harray sunset seen from the centre of stone wall, making the whole could be related to Unstan and Stenness to the Hoy hills the Ring of Bookan . This may arrangement akin to chambered cairn . Deepdale standing stone overlooks the Loch of Stenness from the west The view towards Brodgar from Bookan chambered cairn Maeshowe -type tombs. Some November sunset over the Cuilags on Hoy and Skae Frue from the centre of Bookan pottery and bones were found Until recently there was and “lost” during the 1861 another one nearby but it has excavation. Bookan is differ - disappeared. It remains popu - ent to most of the other cham - lar today as a convenient rub - bered cairns in Orkney, but it bing post for cattle, and is does resemble Taversoe Tuick worth visiting for the (Upper) on and panoramic view of the centre Huntersquoy (Upper) on of the West Mainland alone. . There are also echoes of house interiors at Skara Brae and Knap of Howar .

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