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Where in the World Is San Benito? a History of the Grape Growing and Winemaking Efforts in the “Forgotten” County

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Where in the World Is San Benito? a History of the Grape Growing and Winemaking Efforts in the “Forgotten” County grape growing Central Coast Spotlight: Where in the World is San Benito? A history of the grape growing and winemaking efforts in the “forgotten” county Tony Correia Tony Correia is recognized as a leading authority on the valuation of vineyards and wineries. He is a frequent speaker on the wine industry and vineyard and winery markets, valuation, taxation and estate planning issues. Correia has also qualified as an expert witness in many local, State and Federal courts in California, Arizona, Nevada and Illinois. He was also recently recognized as one of four top leaders in the wine industry at a gathering of the Top 50 Leaders in the Wine Business. Eden Rift Vineyards SAN BENITO COUNTY IS often described as the sleepy, or forgotten, vineyards and the largest wine storage warehouses in the world (housing backwoods of wine country. However, the history of the county reveals some the Almaden and Paul Masson wine brands), the region suffered from a very interesting times. Baby Boomers may remember the area as the site of decrease in attention as the wine world changed. Many thousands of acres Marlon Brando’s breakout 1953 movie, The Wild One, depicting the true were abandoned after those brands were gobbled up by the global behemoths story of a motorcycle gang that terrorized Hollister, the county seat, in 1947. in a series of large scale mergers and acquisitions. Both brands were even- But few of the younger generations even know where the county—or its tually moved to the large Paul Masson facility in eastern Madera County in two cities, Hollister and San Juan Bautista—are. Although only two miles the Central Valley. More recently, both brands, and the Madera facility, were from Highway 101, San Juan has been mostly bypassed by the 21st Century purchased by The Wine Group. and retains much of its original character as a small Mission village. Few The history of San Benito is one of a quest for gold and the fortunes to be folks know that the official state gem of California is benitoite, named for its made in California’s Gold Rush followed by a litany of fortunes made and lost, original finding at the headwaters of the San Benito River. French bon vivants, extravagant parties and lavish lifestyles. And in the best Old While the valleys of San Benito were once home to the largest contiguous (and New) World style, the basic business plan was merger by marriage. 64 June 2018 WBM Where in the World is San Benito? A CALIFORNIA MOBILE BOTTLING & CANNING COMPANY SERVICES ABOUT • Bottle Cleaning, Sparging • Over 30 Years of Hands-On Experience & Gravity Filling • Flexible Scheduling • Pressure Sensitive Labeling • Supported by a Winery • Filling and Corking • Experienced Bottling Line Technicians • Canning: 187ml, 250ml, • Tech Support for Bottling Prep & Packaging 375ml, & 500ml • No Minimums & No Maximums • Velcorin Dosing • Competitive Pricing • Screwcap Capabilities • And More… 805.467.2002 | [email protected] WWW.CASTOROBOTTLING.COM Old vines european craftsmanship stainless steel The Past winery tanks The gold fields of California didn’t pan out for one Forty Niner. Etienne in stock, ready to ship Bernard Edmond Thée left Bordeaux for America in the 1840s to seek his fortune, but soon realized the work was brutal, the life hard and the streets were not paved with gold. Fortune did smile upon him, though, as he realized the fertile fields offered a better opportunity, growing food and wine in the fertile fields of the South Bay to feed all those Forty Niners. In the Santa Clara Valley, Thée got a deal on a piece of land on the Guadalupe River, between Los Gatos and the New Almaden quicksilver mine. The word “Almaden” is, curiously enough, Moorish for “The Mine.” He attempted to now cultivate a common Mission grape varietal, the Criolla, but no matter what he tried, his wines were characterless. In 1852, a young tailor named Charles LeFranc from Paris settled near Thée’s place, and the men quickly became friends. LeFranc suggested they import French varieties from home, and they grafted French cuttings onto the Mission rootstock and repopulated the vineyard with the first high- quality French vines ever planted in Northern California. Fine wine was produced from these vines, and the friends soon erected an adobe winery, the “Almaden,” Northern California’s first ever commercial wine production Harvest is on the horizon. You need tanks and you need them now, but compromising facility. Shortly thereafter, LeFranc married Thée’s daughter, Marie Adele, on quality to get them fast is not how great wines are made. and became a 50 percent owner of Almaden. We’re ready. Our Letina stainless tanks – jacketed, single wall, variable, you name it – are built in Europe and in stock in our Pacific Northwest warehouse, ready to ship. Paul Masson had arrived from Burgundy after studying at College of the Pacific and became bookkeeper for LeFranc’s New Almaden winery, married Want more info? Call us today, or visit: agertank.com/winery Louise LeFranc and developed a small vineyard in Mt. Eden he named La Cresta. Masson expanded and enjoyed great success with his sparkling wine, (503) 222-7079 AGERTANK.COM “Oeil de Perdrix” (Eye of the Partridge) and became a noted bon vivant in the salons of San Francisco. 66 June 2018 WBM Where in the World is San Benito? After the great earthquake of 1906, Masson’s partner, wealthy land owner Josh Jensen high atop the hills of Mt. Harlan, where he found the combi- and politician Frank Moon, died, leaving Masson in control of Masson. In nation of limestone soils, microclimate, maritime influence, rattlesnakes, 1909, Henry LeFranc and his wife were killed, and their daughter Nelty gophers and rocks in his quixotic pursuit of a site capable of producing a survived, leaving Masson in control of Almaden, and he renamed the facility great California Pinot. Little water is found on the site, but the abundance as Paul Masson. Almaden passed through several hands, declining over the of pests proved distracting enough to allow Josh and his team to disregard years, declaring bankruptcy in 1938, then Masson died in 1940 at age 81. Louis water, as they farmed crops to the heady yields of as much as a ton, or two, Benoist and Lawrence Warehouse bought Almaden in 1941. On the advice of grapes per acre. Jensen’s passion proved fruitful as his wines gained global of Dr. Winkler, Benoist bought a large ranch and expanded the vineyards recognition and continue to be recognized as some of the finest in Cali- in Paicines, and then hosted extravagant soirees on the grand estate home fornia wines. Now, with Duckhorn’s production efficiencies and marketing high on the hill, overlooking the valley. Across the highway, the Law Ranch muscle, Calera promises to retain its spot on the podium, with even broader became the site of classical fox hunts, with the San Francisco “swells” and distribution and market recognition. It is noteworthy that Duckhorn, long a their hounds and horses chasing through the extensive fields. Over the years, the Paul Masson and Almaden companies were traded sequentially up through the global giants Seagrams/Heublein/ Lodi Wine Laboratories Grand Metropolitan/National Distillers/Diageo and appeared to Fast - Same Day Turnaround on Analysis be lost in the shuffle. A ordable - Lowest Prices in the Industry The Present Accurate - ISO 17025 Accredited Most recently, San Benito has hosted several passionate vision- Tired of Analysis Costs Spiraling Out of Control? aries in pursuit of the great Cali- fornia Pinot. Williams Selyem, the iconic Fix Your Monthly Analysis Costs Easy and Convenient Sample Submission Pinot producer, purchased the • Subscription Packages available, including unlimited analysis All Clients receive (free of charge): Vista Verde vineyard, just north • Subscription clients also receive • Sample tubes and packaging of the Paicines winery, during the 10% o products and up to 25% o materials premium analysis services Heublein/Grand Metropolitan/ • Next day return shipping labels* National Distillers transitions. • Package pickup at your facility* Williams Selyem added acres to the * some restrictions apply site over the years as neighboring Further Savings More than just wine analysis: properties became available and • High sample volume discounts • Beer and Water analysis still continues to source grapes from • Loyalty Program - Earn Points for • Full line of products from all major there, selling excess fruit to other every dollar spent suppliers vintners. Although many varieties • Cellar Chemicals & Lab Supplies have been grown there and on many of the other old Almaden vineyards, the site appears better suited to Pinot Noir, and some additional Sauvignon Blanc may be planted to satisfy the surging demand for this variety. A Tale of Two Brothers wine The most dramatic, and most recent wine event in the county laboratories is the recent acquisition of the iconic Calera Wine Company by Duckhorn Wine Co. in August Contact us at 209.339.1990 or visit our website 2017. A long, passionate quest for the www.lodiwinelabs.com for more information perfect Pinot site led the legendary WBM June 2018 67 Where in the World is San Benito? hospitality venue in pursuit of the “graceful elegance” he feels the property deserves. The venture recently received some notable recognition in an article in Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate. The vineyard management has been turned over to Atlas Vineyard Management, which is implementing an ambitious plan to upgrade to uber-premium status. In the cellar, winemaker Cory Waller walked us through several elegant Pinots and a delightful Chardonnay. Waller came to the property from his former position as assistant winemaker at Calera, where he worked with his brother, Mike, who remains as Calera’s winemaker.
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