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Something's Fishy

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Something's Fishy CAMILLA BELLE, ALI LARTER AND PLUS TURF’S UP OTHER STARLETS DRESSED UP FOR IRA THE VEUVE CLICQUOT POLO MATCH IN NEIMARK’S PACIFIC PALISADES. LESSONS PAGE 9 LEARNED. PAGE 12 SOURCING’S NEW LANDSCAPE Continual Change Becoming the Norm WWD By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN THE WORLD OF global manufacturing is spinning faster than ever. TUESDAY, OCTOBER 11, 2011 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00 Dynamic changes — from transformations in China’s production landscape to instability in raw ma- terial prices — has caused many of the crystal clear norms to become unfocused. Executives have been forced to take fresh approaches and develop new ways of thinking toward where they make their apparel. When it comes to having a successful sourc- ing strategy in today’s volatile environment, Rick Helfenbein, president of Luen Thai USA, turns to none other than Albert Einstein for some sage ad- vice: “ Yo u have to learn the rules of the game. And then, you have to play better than anyone else.” Something’s The problem, said sourcing experts at the WWD Global Sourcing Forum, is that the rules are chang- ing rapidly and the playing field is in flux. So Helfenbein offered some other pertinent adag- es for his fellow manufacturing executives. He told them to “put your customer first,” don’t exit China Fishy too fast even though costs have risen significantly, that “the consumer doesn’t care where something is made” and that “the herd mentality is over” and “we Riccardo Tisci is one of several are now in the era of analytical sourcing.” designers who took to the deep sea “This supply chain game has a new challenge every day,” Helfenbein said. “The supply chain for spring. His Givenchy collection is always in transition and the transition feels un- employed techno scubalike comfortable. Nobody likes to change. We all want to fabrics, varnishes that shimmered come to work every day and do our jobs the same way, but that’s not how it always works. That’s why like shells and sexy mermaid analytical or sensible sourcing is important.” silhouettes like this leather Helfenbein said the most important sourcing strat- egy today is not what country companies are sourcing and patent skirt suit punched in or how cheap they can get their production, but is a to resemble fish scales and clear focus on what their customer wants. trimmed with a wavy collar “The consumer doesn’t care where something is and peplum that swayed like SEE PAGE 6 seaweed. For more life aquatic, IN WWD TODAY see pages 4 and 5. V Hermès in IndiaPAGE 8 RETAIL:The French luxury brand has opened its first street-level store in India, which it sees as an investment for the long term. Black Friday WanesPAGE 2 FINANCIAL:An Accenture survey finds that fewer people than ever expect to kick off their holiday shopping on Black Friday. CSR Becomes KeyPAGE 7 TEXTILES:A vibrant corporate social responsibility policy is no longer optional for companies as ever-more stringent labor and environmental policies take hold, according to speakers at the WWD Global Sourcing Forum. PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI 2 WWD TUESDAY, OCTOBER 11, 2011 WWD.COM Black Friday’s Impact Wanes Vente-Privée USA Names Executive Team NEW YORK — The American Express and Vente- the French flash sale pioneer Vente-Privée.com to As Holiday Promotions Abound Privée joint venture now has an executive team to build the new site into the leader in the U.S. on- join its chief executive officer, Mike Steib. line private sales market. He was formerly the di- By ARNOLD J. KARR The venture has named six senior-level execu- rector of video advertising for Google’s Americas tives, each with expertise in fashion, tech- Operations, and before that led Google’s Americas RETAILERS MIGHT BE GETTING a bit less bang for their Black nology or media to help spearhead the business teams for its emerging ad products. Friday buck this year and find themselves more dependent than ever U.S. operation. According to Steib, “We’ve done the unusual on the spending of the affluent for their holiday season increases. The executives are Laure de Metz, for a pre-revenue startup. Instead of hiring These were among the findings of the annual holiday shopping divisional ceo for Vente-Privée midlevel executives, [we are bringing in] se- survey of global consulting firm Accenture, which conducted an on- USA Brands, formerly vice presi- nior executives who can scale with this busi- line poll of 500 U.S. consumers last month. The study found a steep dent of licensing at Marc Jacobs ness. This leadership team is also the one increase in the percentage of shoppers planning to stay out of stores International; Robin Domeniconi, EXCLUSIVE we’ll have in 2015. That was intentional.” on Black Friday, the traditional start of the holiday selling season. head of marketing, formerly senior Steib explained that the current team Forty-four percent this year said they were very likely (19 per- vice president and chief brand of- is the one needed for the site’s launch, cent) or somewhat likely (25 percent) to shop on Black Friday, down ficer of Elle Group; Nicolas Genest, and that the venture will add to its roster as from 47 percent (21 percent and 26 percent, respectively) last year head of technology, formerly chief technol- the business builds. and 52 percent (22 percent and 30 percent, respectively) in 2009. ogy officer of Vente-Privée.com in France; Tim As for when the site would launch, Steib pre- Thirty-five percent said they were “not at all likely” to shop on Quinn, head of finance, formerly vice president dicted “this year,” although he was somewhat cau- Black Friday, up from 28 percent last year, and 16 percent said they of investments, integration and measurement at tious about whether that could be before the start were unlikely to shop then, down from 20 percent a year ago. American Express; John Saroff, head of digital of the holiday season. Still, 37 percent expect the best discounts to be available on factory and sales production, formerly head of TV Noting that he’s only been on the job for nine Black Friday or Cyber Monday, the busiest day for online shopping. ads, strategic partnerships at Google Inc., and Jill weeks, the ceo said he’s been “getting the organi- “The impact of Black Friday is certainly lessening because Szuchmacher, head of business development, for- zation up and running in a sprint, building out the there are discounts throughout the season and not everyone wants merly director of business development at Google. technology and meeting with brand partners. We’re to get up at 5 in the morning to go shopping,” said Chris Donnelly, Steib, who took on the ceo position in July, is moving at a really quick operational pace and we senior executive in Accenture’s retail practice. “The other thing responsible for leveraging the assets and long- want to make sure when we launch that it is good.” we’re seeing is that the lower-income shopper, and that’s unfor- standing relationships of American Express and — VICKI M. YOUNG tunately becoming a bigger percentage of the population, tends not to have as much money at the end of the month, especially if they’ve just had Thanksgiving. That Scherrer Brand Sold to JSB International combination is pushing more pur- chases into December.” PARIS — JSB International, a French family-owned Designer Parfums, part of Shaneel Enterprises This year Thanksgiving Day is group specializing in commercial real estate and in- Group, which specializes in creating and developing Nov. 24 and Black Friday Nov. 25, ternational wholesale distribution of luxury goods, has luxury fragrances, owns the brand’s fragrance license. with Cyber Monday falling on Nov. 28. 35% acquired Jean-Louis Scherrer from Dumesnil Group. Founded in 1962 by the couturier of the same Almost nine in 10 of those polled SHARE OF RESPONDENTS The new owner has no intention to reawaken the name, Scherrer’s fashion business came to a halt — 88 percent — said they would WHO SAID THEY WERE dormant couture house’s ready-to-wear and couture in the years following the departure of rtw design- spend less or the same on gifts as “NOT AT ALL LIKELY” TO lines. Instead, the aim is to develop the brand’s li- er Bouchra Jarrar in 2007, after just five months they did last year, with 22 percent SHOP ON BLACK FRIDAY. censes, which have a strong presence in Asia, Bruno in the role. indicating less and 66 percent in- Bensoussan, JSB’s chief executive officer, said. In the same year, the house’s longtime couturier, dicating the same. Asked why they Bensoussan declined to disclose figures for the Stéphane Rolland, left to create his signature cou- weren’t spending more, 43 percent cited less discretionary in- deal, which included the brand’s portfolio of six ture house, now officially a member of the Chambre come, 37 percent an increase in living expenses and 37 percent licenses, including eyewear, footwear and men’s Syndicale. Rolland during his nine-year tenure at said they wanted to keep the holidays “simple and not too extrav- clothing, for all territories except China. JSB, Scherrer cultivated a high-profile following, includ- agant.” Thirty percent said they had less savings and 15 percent which does not own any other fashion brands, ing former French First Lady Bernadette Chirac, cited less job security. plans to add a women’s wear license by year end. Suzanne Saperstein and Ivana Trump.
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