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&<1 0$* <(/ %/. GETTING A KICK OUT OF FNO WWDMICHAEL KORS AND THE ROCKETTES WERE JUST A FEW OF THE HORDES WHO TURNED OUT IN NEW YORK, LONDON, PARIS AND MILAN FOR FASHION’S NIGHT OUT. STYLE, PAGES 17 TO 19

FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2011 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY Q $3.00

BEAUTY GOES HIGH TECH New Format Sephora Bows in Meatpacking

as many as 50 stores to by year- By JULIE NAUGHTON end 2011 — works with an inter- nal Wi-Fi network and a scanner WITH A CHANDELIER MADE that looks like a handheld phone. from distorted fragrance bot- “It works on touch screen and tles, a gaggle of mirrors with six does just about all of the same light settings, custom-designed things a cash wrap can do in a modern art and — perhaps most smaller format,” he explained. surprisingly — no cash wrap, “It communicates wirelessly in Sephora is kicking its business the store to connect to whatever model into the future with its data is needed, including credit new Meatpacking District store. card authorization, and through- Located at the corner of out the store there are a number Ninth Avenue and West 13th of mobile printers. The handheld Street, the 5,000-square-foot talks to the printer, the cast mem- store — with 3,500 square feet of ber pulls out the receipt, which that devoted to selling space — looks like what you’d get from a will be the first Sephora in the register, and it’s all very efficient U.S. to feature a completely mo- and very convenient.” bile checkout model, said David To the question of shoplift- Suliteanu, chief executive offi- ing, Suliteanu said he believes cer of Sephora Americas, in an the handheld system actually exclusive interview this week. makes it less likely. “Our people The store is Sephora’s 16th in are more engaged — the activ- Manhattan and 293rd in the U.S. ity is more evenly dispersed and opens on Sept. 16. around the store. If anything, I The mobile checkout system would say it would help a little — which Suliteanu plans to add SEE PAGE 12

IN WWD TODAY John Galliano Found GuiltyPAGE 2 NEWS: The former creative director at Dior was found guilty by a Paris court and fined for his racist and anti-Semitic outbursts in March. COLLECTIONS YORK 2012 NEW The Light SPRING

Topshop Lands in Chicago ▲ PAGE 4 Side of Dark RETAIL: The British retailer opens its second U.S. unit on Michigan Avenue and is looking to Kimberly Ovitz admits to a dark side, but she’s not dogmatic about it. open eight to 10 more stores in America over Her spring collection featured fluid, thin-as-air fabrics with plays on transparency, the next two years. draping and asymmetrics, along with a healthy dose of white that all worked to an 10 Corso Como at 20 undone-chic effect. For more on the collections, see pages 6 and 7. PAGE 8 FASHION: Carla Sozzani started with a gallery that then expanded into fashion — and it became one of the most influential retailers around. PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE 2 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2011 WWD.COM Guilty Verdict, Small Fine for Galliano Obama Talks Jobs recognized his guilt; that was all that was required,” WASHINGTON — President Obama, facing a stubbornly By JOELLE DIDERICH he said. “The fact that he has lost the iconic status con- high unemployment rate, plummeting consumer confi- ferred on him by his position as artistic director of Dior dence, volatile financial markets and an economy tee- PARIS — A Paris court has found John Galliano guilty is the greatest punishment of all. I think the court un- tering on the brink of recession, outlined a $447 billion of uttering racist and anti-Semitic insults at a Paris derstood that. That punishment was self-inflicted.” jobs plan Thursday night that contained many provi- cafe following a series of drunken altercations that Rabbis Marvin Hier and Abraham Cooper of the Simon sions championed by retailers and apparel brands. prompted his dismissal from Christian Dior in March Wiesenthal Center also supported the ruling. “The sym- Dubbed the American Jobs Act, Obama’s comprehen- after 15 years as creative director. bolic 1-euro fine by a French court was the right legal sive plan includes a mix of tax cuts for businesses and in- But the British designer got off relatively lightly, punishment for John Galliano’s public anti-Semitic out- dividuals, and investment in infrastructure and schools. with the court sentencing him to suspended fines to- bursts,” they stated. “Now it is up to him to make amends “The purpose of the American Jobs Act is simple: taling 6,000 euros, or $8,400. In addition, it ordered to the community he demeaned and to the public at large. to put more people back to work and more money in him to pay three plaintiffs and five antidiscrimination That cannot be achieved through carefully crafted press the pockets of those who are working,” Obama said in groups 1 euro, or $1.40, each in symbolic damages and releases but only through his future deeds and words.” his speech to a joint session of Congress. “It will cre- a combined 16,500 euros, or $23,200, in costs. Presiding judge Anne-Marie Sauteraud said that ate more jobs for construction workers, more jobs for Galliano, 50, was absent from the hearing, but his despite conflicting accounts, there was “ample and cor- teachers, more jobs for veterans and more jobs for the lawyer Aurélien Hamelle welcomed what he termed a roborating” evidence that Galliano was guilty as charged. long-term unemployed. It will provide a tax break for “satisfactory” decision. She also cited a report dated June 16 by companies who hire new workers, and it will cut pay- Hamelle said suspending the fine was John Galliano Dr. Philippe Batel, head of the outpa- roll taxes in half for every working American and every a “strong sign” and demonstrated that the tient addictions unit at the Beaujon hos- small business. It will provide a jolt to an economy that court had taken into account that the de- pital in the Paris suburb of Clichy, which has stalled, and give companies confidence that if they signer was suffering from addictions to said Galliano had contacted three dif- invest and hire, there will be customers for their prod- alcohol, Valium and sleeping pills at the ferent rehab clinics in the previous six ucts and services.” time of the events, which, in addition to months and spoken to an addictions spe- At the heart of the president’s jobs plan are business being fired from Dior, caused him to be cialist at the American Hospital in Paris and individual tax cuts. It would provide a one-year exten- ousted from his signature fashion house. as far back as February 2010, without sion of payroll tax cuts for workers that took effect this year, “It is unusual, because the court here pursuing treatment. “This shows he was giving a family earning $50,000 a year a tax cut of $1,500. took into account the apologies of Mr. aware of his addiction and refused to Obama’s plan also calls for a one-year extension of Galliano, took into account the fact that seek treatment at the time,” Sauteraud expiring unemployment insurance. he was sick at the time of the events — a noted in her ruling. However, she added Retailers and apparel brands looking for a nod from triple addiction. Now Mr. Galliano is re- DOMINIQUE MAITRE that Galliano had not intended for his Obama on business tax cuts, as well as support for three lieved, he is looking forward to the future remarks to be so widely publicized, had pending trade agreements, were rewarded.

and hopes people will, with time, under- PHOTO BY sought treatment and apologized to Several industry chief executive officers, including stand and forgive,” Hamelle told reporters. his victims. Mike Duke, president and ceo of Wal-Mart Stores Inc., The maximum penalty in France for insulting someone Galliano said at his trial that he was “in denial” and Robert A. McDonald, chairman, president and ceo on the basis of their origin, religious affiliation, race or when he was detained by police following the Feb. of Procter & Gamble Co., sent a letter to Congressional ethnicity is six months in jail and a fine of 22,500 euros, or 24 altercation with Bloch and Virgitti. He was subse- leaders Wednesday urging Congress to act on three $32,000 at current exchange. Public prosecutor Anne de quently found to have an alcohol reading of 1.01 mil- trade deals with Panama, South Korea and Colombia Fontette had called for a fine of no less than 10,000 euros, ligrams of alcohol per liter of exhaled air, four times that have been caught in political limbo for four years. or $14,100, while Hamelle had pleaded for an acquittal. the legal driving limit in France. The heads of the American Apparel & Footwear At Galliano’s trial on June 22, the court heard alle- The designer has since spent two months at a Association and National Retail Federation also urged gations that in two separate incidents, Galliano hurled treatment center in Arizona, followed by a stay in Congress and the Obama administration Thursday to pass insults including “dirty Jewish face,” “f---ing Asian Switzerland. “He wants to put this episode behind and enact the three trade deals as an engine for job creation. bastard” and “f---ing ugly Jewish b---ch.” him, to continue putting his life back together and to Lawmakers cannot act on the trade deals until the It also viewed an undated video, originally made pub- pursue his treatment,” Hamelle said. White House formally submits them to Congress. Obama lic by British tabloid newspaper The Sun, which shows Galliano explained to the court in a letter that he signaled his support for the trade deals in his speech. the designer saying in a slurred voice, “I love Hitler.” had decided not to attend Thursday’s hearing in order “Now it’s time to clear the way for a series of trade Galliano testified that he remembered nothing of to avoid the media limelight. The disgraced designer agreements that would make it easier for American the incidents, but apologized several times to plain- has mainly kept a low profile, though he did appear at companies to sell their products in Panama, Colombia tiffs Geraldine Bloch, Philippe Virgitti and Fatiha the July wedding of his longtime muse Kate Moss, for and South Korea, while also helping the workers Oumeddour, and to the court. which he designed the Thirties-inspired dress. “She whose jobs have been affected by global competition,” “All my life I’ve fought against prejudice and intoler- dared me to be John Galliano again,” the designer is Obama said. “If Americans can buy Kias and Hyundais, ance and discrimination because I have been subjected quoted as saying in a feature on the wedding in the I want to see folks in South Korea driving Fords and to it myself,” he said, referring to his homosexuality. September issue of U.S. Vogue, which has a photo Chevys and Chryslers. I want to see more products sold Bloch’s lawyer Yves Beddouk greeted Thursday’s ruling. spread of the designer holding Moss’ dress. “I couldn’t around the world stamped with three proud words: “It is measured. Justice has been done. The court pick up a pencil. It’s been my creative rehab.” “Made in America.” — KRISTI ELLIS

we are fully committed to the continued growth and devel- Hilfiger in Deal for Interest in India Business opment of our business here,” said Fred Gehring, chief ex- ecutive officer of Tommy Hilfiger Group. “We believe that TOMMY HILFIGER GROUP, which is wholly owned by The reconfigured venture will continue its businesses continuing the relationship will allow us to benefit from PVH Corp., has completed a deal with the Murjani Group going forward, as well as manage other sublicensees in their expertise in the Indian apparel and manufacturing to acquire direct interest in the Hilfiger business in India. India. Consequently, this establishes Hilfiger’s direct in- business, both with the Tommy Hilfiger brand, as well as The transaction includes the buyout of Murjani terest in India and builds upon a preexisting partnership other brands, including our sibling brands, Izod and Arrow.” Group’s license for the Hilfiger trademarks in India with Arvind Ltd. Terms of the deal weren’t disclosed. Mohan Murjani, chairman of the Murjani Group, part- and the acquisition of its 50 percent interest in Arvind Hilfiger’s products are distributed in India through nered with Tommy Hilfiger in 1985 to launch his brand Murjani Brands Pvt. Ltd. AMB has been the apparel a network of more than 80 freestanding stores and and company in the U.S. In 2004, the Murjani Group sublicensee of the Hilfiger brand since 2004, when it shop-in-shops in 30 cities such as New Delhi, Mumbai, launched the Tommy Hilfiger brand in India as one of was introduced in the Indian market. Arvind Ltd. is the Bangalore, Chandigarh and Hyderabad. the first international designer lifestyle brands to enter other partner in AMB. “India is an important market for Tommy Hilfiger, and that market. — LISA LOCKWOOD

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*Clinical study. 4 WWD friday, september 9, 2011 WWD.COM oyt h Karen by Scenes from outside and inside the new store. Photos Topshop Opens Flagship in Chicago Green has made no secret about his Compared with topshop’s new York By Beth Wilson desire for a more prominent new York lo- opening, which boasted a week’s worth of cation, but he won’t pay top dollar. “i don’t parties attracting handfuls of high-voltage ChiCAGo — For topshop, the long wait need to,” he said. “We want to be sensible.” celebrities and unparalleled hype, the is over. sensibility, however, is not the aesthet- Chicago unveiling seemed more subdued. After opening its first U.s. store in new ic topshop is known for, as evidenced by instead of hosting a barrage of events, York more than two years ago, the fast- one of its best sellers — $150 barely there topshop activated its social media chan- fashion British retailer took its sweet time denim short shorts embellished with crys- nels, creating an opening day countdown testing the waters, waiting until thursday tals. After the new York store placed four on its new Chicago Facebook page, which to unveil its second and largest U.s. flag- reorders for the shorts, topshop introduced also tracked its topshop truck as it trav- ship along Michigan Avenue here. a black pair full of bling for fall, which are eled to college campuses distributing gift But this flashy, high-profile store is no displayed front-and-center in Chicago. cards worth anywhere from $5 to $100. A second banana, said sir Philip Green, the “People aren’t coming here for day before the public opening, topshop owner of Arcadia Group, parent company t-shirts and jeans,” Green said, though offered private ViP shopping for some of topshop and its men’s sibling topman. shoppers may purchase those items. 200 guests followed by a dinner at Paris “For us, this is a game changer,” “People are coming here to dress up.” Club and after party where Cyrus seemed Green said of the 49,000-square-foot cor- silver-and-black mannequins at the to have the best time, dancing before her ner building with 35,000 square feet of store’s front doors articulate that flam- booth of friends. selling space. “it moves the brand on. boyancy, decked out in black leather trim Bruce Kaplan, who produces yearly this is a presence on one of the best leggings, platform leopard booties and studies of Michigan Avenue as senior streets in the world. it’s a statement.” sequined tops. Another form features a vice president for CB Richard ellis, said topshop definitely made its pres- black stretch-lace pencil skirt, faux fur topshop is part of a resurgence of retail ence known thursday, blocking off a side leopard coat and a zebra-print top with along Michigan Avenue, where rents are street to Michigan Avenue for an outdoor sequin detailing. Prices range from $36 rising back to 2001 levels. “it means a lot; fashion show that attracted a collection for a t-shirt to $790 for a three-quarter- it really does,” Kaplan said of the open- of onlookers three people thick snapping length black leather jacket. ing. “topshop, they’re larger than life. it pictures with their cell phones. Green in true topshop form, the collection cements Michigan Avenue among the top then christened the topshop/topman Miley Cyrus and Sir Philip Green at the opening. of clothing will constantly change, with two retail locations in north America.” store with Miley Cyrus in tow before a the store receiving 150 new lines a week. the Windy City launch, representing gaggle of photographers and hundreds of Place shopping center, which houses Decor reflects the urban rock ’n’ roll vibe an estimated $12 million investment, eager shoppers lining the street. Macy’s, and steps away from h&M, of the retailer’s fashions with gray slate coincides with ongoing expansion for some customers, like Meredith lee, a Giorgio Armani and Bottega Veneta. floors, reclaimed wood shelving, brushed topshop, which plans to open stores 24-year-old graduate student, waited two Green, who is planning to meet this chrome clothing racks and neon signs. in toronto in october and Australia in hours to be one of the first to enter the week with U.s. landlords, including one highlights of the space include an open, December. in 2012, the retailer looks to store. “it’s very exciting. i like the spar- from los Angeles, where he is close to airy, relaxing white- and lavender-col- launch in Brazil in February and unveil kles,” she said, spying all the sequined signing a lease, said the Windy City store ored, 800-square-foot personal shopping its third U.s. store in las Vegas in March. clothes at the store’s atrium entrance. has become his new calling card. area and a sleek shoe salon complete with All topshops outside the U.K. are fran- While Green said topshop’s new York “i want people to see what we’ve mirrored ceilings and mirrored shelving chised except for the U.s. stores. store on Broadway in soho is more of a done,” said Green, who knows there are displaying suede platform pumps in vio- ideally, Green said he would like to destination, there’s no missing the Windy those who have questioned topshop’s let, cobalt blue, teal, red, green and four have eight to 10 U.s. topshops within the City topshop/topman flagship with its slow U.s. expansion, assuming weak different animal prints, all in front of a next two years. “We’ve been picky,” he floor-to-ceiling glass-and-black-coated sales in new York. faint Union Jack backdrop. admitted, noting that the company has aluminum panel exterior and illuminat- Business in new York is “oK,” he said. Men’s wear also takes center stage as invested $1 billion to open new stores ed signs that pierce the city’s Magnificent “it’s steady. i can’t say it’s our best location. topman fills the store’s second floor with and refurbish existing ones over the last Mile, particularly at night. not to men- it was a good place to start but we’ve got to slim-cut suiting, distinctive dress shoes six years. “i’m not in a hurry. We don’t tion that the store is positioned across be Uptown. We need to move on. this [the and skinny denim and thin corduroy, want to make a mistake. taking our time, the street from the popular Water tower Chicago store] will be the catalyst.” tweed and leopard-print ties. it’s the key.”

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Kimberly Ovitz Richard Chai GO EASY Love That was the message on Thursday from designers who took a nonchalant and sporty approach to the season.

Kimberly Ovitz: Kimberly Ovitz is proving patterns and layering, some of it herself a gutsy designer, her version charmingly wacky such as the women’s of moody minimalism in stylistic apron kilts worn over pants. These added counterpoint to the more obvious polish of to the show’s playful energy, as did the many of her most prominent peers. After unconstructed blazers for men that were the Japanese earthquake, Ovitz “became paired with mesh basketball shorts, which preoccupied with the idea of disaster hinted at a new level of maturity. versus relief and man versus nature.” For her first runway show, she drew BCBG Max Azria: It was obvious what inspiration from Japanese architect Max and Lubov Azria were going Shigeru Ban, perhaps best known for his for with their spring collection — post-Kobe-earthquake housing structures, an amalgamation of recent trends, temporary dwellings constructed of specifically colorblocking, neons and impermanent materials such as paper that stylishly off-kilter effect of throwing and bamboo. The resulting lineup sporty outerwear over a feminine dress. incorporated paper-thin knits and airy They aren’t the only designers pulling fabrics in shapes that were often, though from ideas that have been in the air. Yet not always, fluid, and as wearable as the point taken from this lineup was they were interesting in design. A classic that culling from the au courant is not a cardigan, for example, played with sure thing. The dresses, while pretty in degrees of transparency, making for a silhouette, were needlessly complicated pseudo-graphic pattern, while the sides by splicing, panels, cutouts and piping, of a shirtdress were hoisted up to create all done in contrast colors and tribal a beautiful draped silhouette, and the patterns. Some were worn with chiffon sole print (of rusted metal) was placed on hoodies, also done in multicolored asymmetric silk dresses and skirts. panels, in an effort to channel “active While Ovitz admits to designing for glamour” as the show notes professed. girls with a dark perspective, her clothes have ample appeal beyond that core, Wes Gordon: Inspired by a Cecil Beaton delivered with subtle chic and a savvy photo of his sister Baba, Wes Gordon shot of sex appeal. combined romance with a nonchalant, Richard young attitude for spring. “It’s the idea of Chai Duckie Brown: Duckie Brown presented a how to make luxury relevant to the girls Love well-edited lineup that was innovative who are my peers — I’m 25,” said Gordon. enough to be interesting without going “We did that with color, with beautiful over the edge into the dippy, as can some- fabrics, with separates.” The result times happen with designing duo Steven was an impressive, diverse lineup that Cox and Daniel Silver. They adorned or- balanced dressed-up and more casual ganza puffer jackets and shorts with el- looks, even as the designer insisted there egant rose prints in hues of pinks and pur- was no real demarcation between day ples to sophisticated, graceful effect. But and evening. From the double-faced they offset that prettiness with monochro- cropped jacket paired with python shorts matic nylon bombers paired with nylon to a silk-and-cashmere cardigan with a trousers multipleated to provide volume jacquard tweed dégradé embroidered and depth to the silhouette. Waxed cotton skirt to a printed silk organza T-shirt with for parkas and a contemporary tweed fab- a dirndl skirt, it all worked. The overall ric for T-shirts and shorts exhibited an in- mood was one of youthful polish pulsing teresting play of textures, adding up to one with a current of cool. of the label’s most appealing spring shows. 10 Crosby Derek Lam: Derek Lam Cushnie et Ochs: Carly Cushnie and approached the second season of his 10 Michelle Ochs have a strong, beautifully Crosby diffusion line from a practical executed point of view for spring, standpoint. “Spring is such a short which pretty much remained focused season and so predicated on the weather, throughout their Cushnie et Ochs I really wanted to identify what the collection. In a fusion of Space Age with key pieces a woman would love in her “Mad Men,” they showed perfectly cut, wardrobe,” said Lam. He focused on below-the-knee sheaths, usually with things that are work-appropriate and dramatically angular cutouts and details transitional with an emphasis on what he at the back and neckline. It was all done called the “new suit:” a striped burlap in a palette of white, lemon, pink and jacket worn with a matching skirt, both black cottons and silks with a smattering short and a little boxy, and a graphic of leather. When they occasionally veered tunic belted over a pencil skirt. Lam from the linear, the looks were just as balanced bright colors and bold prints strong with charming short and flared with neutrals used on wide-leg pants and skirts in eyelet, canvas or leather, paired long, solid gowns. Most impressive were with shaped blazers over shirts. the fabrics, such as spongy Japanese Only the clunky metal peplum belts jersey; soft, textured knits, and coated and some rather brazen bra looks shifted technical materials for flared skirts the otherwise fine balance between very and parkas. They felt expensive and sexy and very chic. durable and, best of all, many of them are washable. Richard Chai Love: Five seasons in, Richard Chai is still carving out the identity of Porter Grey: Growing up, sisters Kristen T-shirts, which will benefit Riverkeeper. his Love collection, which appears to be and Alexandra O’Neill shared a bedroom Fashion scoops Blondie will make an appearance at turning more and more toward streetwear. that was an explosion of chintz — the store early in the evening. He has an eye for it, particularly in wallpaper, bedding and even a lamp. POP-UP BLONDIE: Debbie Harry is a friend “I’ve had a longtime association terms of color and pattern. For spring, he For their spring Porter Grey collection, of Marc Jacobs and a regular front-row with Marc Jacobs since the early days showed men’s and women’s together for they channeled that vibe with floral vision at his shows, and the designer is at CBGB, and he’s always been so the first time, cultivating a hippie surf vibe patterns mashed together with Fifties returning the honors this fashion week. supportive of the downtown scene,” with a variety of prints and textures that and Sixties silhouettes reminiscent of On Tuesday, the Marc by Marc Jacobs Harry said. “I love and admire the were bohemian without turning crunchy. what guests wore to their grandparents’ women’s boutique on Bleecker Street fact that, while he’s so successful in The first look out said it all: a women’s garden parties. It all worked to a very will transform into a pop-up Blondie the world of high fashion, he’s never shrunken safari jacket worn over a yellow sweet, wearable effect. They made sure shop to celebrate the band’s new forgotten his roots.” and green peplum tunic that looked like to filter in a few minimal nonprinted album, “Panic of Girls.” The shop will burlap, paired with floral-print biker looks as well, such as soft white button- sell all kinds of Blondie products, from COURTIER AND THE B-BALLER: Standing shorts in acid colors. Throughout, he up blouses, wrap miniskirts and a the new album to Blondie fan packs on the red carpet at Lincoln Center played with matching and mismatching perforated leather dress. and books, and special $35 Blondie on Wednesday afternoon, Valentino

w09a006a;5.indd 1 9/8/11 8:46 PM 09082011204802 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2011 7 WWD.COM

Cushnie et Ochs Duckie BCBG 10 Crosby Brown Max Azria Derek Lam FOR MORE REVIEWS, SEE

WWD.com/fashion-shows.

Wes Gordon Porter Grey IANNACCONE AND ROBERT MITRA GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT GIOVANNI

COLLECTIONS NEW YORK SPRING

2012 PASHA ANTONOV, JOHN AQUINO, GEORGE CHINSEE, STEVE EICHNER, JOHN AQUINO, ANTONOV, PASHA PHOTOS BY was feeling a bit moved. “I Guinness, Anna Wintour, Julia had the invitation to attend the LENS CRAFTERS: Oscar-winning preshow backstage scene was have to tell you, I am very Koch, Ivanka Trump and Melania luncheon. We couldn’t possibly director Tom Hooper caught to directing a film. Creatively emotional because it’s a good Trump, had turned out for the turn this down, so here we are.” his girlfriend Tara Subkoff’s speaking, he and Subkoff have award, and after two and a occasion. One clear standout Still, Bryant said he could Imitation of Christ runway loads to chat about. “She’s half years, when I stop my in the crowd was Kobe Bryant, appreciate the cause. show Thursday with camera got a great eye. I grew up in a job, it is nice to be here and who attended with his wife, “Whether it’s business, in hand. But the Brit, who family where I always talked to have this award,” he said. Vanessa. Despite some recent whether it’s fashion, whether called the shots for “The King’s about ideas with the people The retired designer was at fashion forays among his NBA it’s professional sports, it’s Speech,” will turn his attention you were closest to. I suppose the David H. Koch Theater brethren, Bryant explained good to meet the people who overseas next year by shooting this [openness] with Tara is an to receive the FIT Couture that he wouldn’t be sticking are at the top of the game in “Les Miserables” with Hugh extension of that.” Council’s Award for Artistry around for fashion week. their own industry,” he said. “I Jackman in the U.K. and France. Another showgoer, Mary of Fashion. Naturally, a crowd “We’re actually here for have a genuine appreciation for After what was his first Ellen Mark, also talked about of well-heeled women and vacation for our kids before people who are great at what fashion show outing, Hooper the creative process. Her book fashion figures, which included they go back to school,” Bryant they do and the work ethic that couldn’t get over how “Revenge” is being reprinted Diane von Furstenberg, Daphne said. “We leave today, but we they put into it.” “unbelievably similar” the {Continued on page 8} 8 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2011 WWD.COM 20 Ye a r s for 10 Corso Como FASHION SCOOPS

and listen. It’s enriching — but I’m the worst seller,” {Continued from page 7} By LUISA ZARGANI she said with a laugh. and a more compact version of her “Fraulein” will While acknowledging the challenges of the economy, be out Oct. 20, when her next show bows at the Los MILAN — Jaded is the word that least describes Carla which have forced many independent retailers to close, Angeles gallery Fahey/Klein. Sozzani, whose energy and enthusiasm about fashion, Sozzani said, “it’s always been difficult.” However, she As for today’s fashion photography, Mark said, art, design and nature is contagious. described her customers as very loyal, because their “Digital photography has somehow made it easier to During an interview in her luminous studio above her tastes are similar to her own. “It’s not purely about the take a good photo because you can do so much with 10 Corso Como store, which celebrates its 20th anniver- purchase. Those who come here want the experience; retouching. But it’s still difficult to take a soulful photo sary today, Sozzani talked about how moved she was by a they are drawn by my editing. Usually, those who come and a fashion photograph. It has a lot to do with the sunset in Portofino over the previous weekend, whipping here know that what I sell has been chosen for them. It’s bond the photographer has with the person, the idea out her portable phone to show a photo she took. After what I like and what they also like, hence their loyalty.” and the dress.” all, “images have always been my thing,” said Sozzani, But she now has more than the store. In 1998, surrounded by photos of Man Ray and Helmut Newton Sozzani opened a restaurant as an alternative to the SUPIMA’S BEST: on the whitewashed walls, art by Kris Ruhs and design existing café, and a minuscule hotel with three rooms, Jusil Carroll, a furniture, such as a chair by Norman Cherner. aptly called 3 Rooms, in 2003. “It’s a home-away-from- recent fashion “I started this store with a photo gallery. There was home concept,” she said. design graduate nothing similar at the time, as photos were not con- In 2002, together with Rei Kawakubo, she from New York’s sidered art — but I was so sure opened the 10 Corso Como- Fashion Institute they were,” she explained. Comme des Garçons store in of Technology, The gallery quickly evolved Tokyo. “I didn’t feel strong enough won the Supima into an influential fashion bou- at the time to go about it on my Competition on tique, where Sozzani’s own taste own, so I decided on a cobranding Thursday. Carroll, is reflected in every nook and project,” said Sozzani. Six years 34, a native of cranny. She is a hands-on retail- later, she unveiled a three-story South Korea, er, in charge of buying and edit- 10 Corso Como store in Seoul, in a said, “This was ing fashion brands ranging from partnership with Samsung Group. my first fashion Balenciaga, Prada and Maison “There isn’t a marketing show, I can’t Martin Margiela to Azzedine project mapped out in advance; believe it. This Alaïa and Dries Van Noten. it all grew by instinct and ac- was an amazing “I’m here from morning to complished step-by-step,” experience.” evening; this store is my pas- Sozzani said of the expansion The capsule sion, otherwise it wouldn’t of 10 Corso Como, which is collection Carroll make sense to be so involved, now a brand in its own right. designed for the and I love this place as my Sozzani revealed she’s thinking competition, own home,” said Sozzani, who of opening a 10 Corso Como in which included speaks in soft tones and often Shanghai in 2012. two students from GIANNONI GIOVANNI breaks into an engaging smile. The latest extension is a four schools — FIT, “I’m curious — I like every- rooftop garden on top of the Pratt Institute, Jusil Carroll and Rachel Zoe BY PHOTO thing, there is always some- Milan flagship, of which Sozzani the Rhode Island thing new and beautiful. Yo u is particularly proud. School of Design must not be too blasé.” She describes her philosophy and Savannah College of Art and Design — features Referring to fashion, she of fashion retailing as “slow shop- sleeveless cocktail and evening dresses. Her line, like said designers should be given ping, a walk between art, music all the participants’, features Supima cotton grown a chance, “even if you’ve al- and flowers, and fashion, where in the U.S. and supplied by fabric mills Albini Group, ready seen that dress, now you all of our senses are engaged. Carlo Bonomi, Fessler USA and Kurabo. see it with different eyes. Even ANDREA DELBÒ It’s a privilege, and I want to “Let me just say I am blown away,” said Rachel Zoe, from well-known designers, Carla Sozzani enjoy that moment with no hurry. who hosted the event at the Studio at Lincoln Center, there is always something, a PHOTO BY There’s music and armchairs. after the show of the collections of Carroll and the flicker…this keeps me alive.” This is not a supermarket.” other finalists, Amy Bittner from FIT; MaRu Jung and Dara Sozzani describes her store as a “bazaar” filled with In addition to the established brands she carries, Rosen from Pratt; Rachel Pullman and Connie Weng from objects that mirror her own curiosity. “Without curios- Sozzani is always on the lookout for emerging design- RISD, and Lorena Cuevas and Marlow Larson from SCAD. ity, nothing happens — it’s at the basis of any discovery ers and spoke highly of the Canadian-born Thomas Carroll, a recipient of last year’s $25,000 CFDA Liz and evolution,” she noted. Tait, who shows his “sartorial couture” line in London. Claiborne Design Scholarship, received $10,000 for her The concept of the store hasn’t changed since the Sozzani lamented the fact that young designers in first prize from Supima, the trade group representing early days. “It’s a living magazine,” she said, which Italy “don’t have the desire to build their brand, and American growers of pima cotton. This year’s also explains the initial reasoning behind the bou- opt for working for big groups as creative directors.” judges include Alexandra Wilkis Wilson, founder of Gilt tique. Sister of Vogue Italia editor in chief Franca Twenty years ago, it was different, she reminisced, as Groupe; Kevin Harter, vice president of men’s fashion Sozzani, the two women share long, wavy blonde designers were willing “to suffer” to create their own for Bloomingdale’s; model Coco Rocha, and designers hair, fair skin, a minute figure and a career in maga- house. “Think of [Rei] Kawakubo, [Jean Paul] Gaultier, Charlotte Ronson and Nicole Miller. zines. After a long stint at Vogue Italia, Carla Sozzani [Giorgio] Armani, [Gianni] Versace. Of course it’s hard- launched Italian Elle in 1987, but something was miss- er, with a structure where you have to pay people and GIVE ME GUINNESS: Daphne Guinness is collaborating ing. “There was no Internet at the time and no direct fabrics, and the world is bigger. But what will the fu- with MAC Cosmetics on a color cosmetics collection contact with people. Perhaps today it would be differ- ture of Made in Italy be? slated to hit doors in North America on Dec. 26. The ent, but I felt strongly about it at the time,” she added, “I believe you cannot express yourself entirely if shades are said to be made up of rich, seasonal hues. noting how she edits different categories for her store you work for others,” she said. “Would Armani have After its December launch in North America, the in addition to fashion, such as books and art. dared to do the deconstructed jacket if he had worked 21-stockkeeping-unit Daphne Guinness for MAC lineup “This is a destination, an inspiration and I like that. for someone else? Would he have had the same per- will roll out internationally in January. Customers or even just visitors are moved by the same sonality and strength? He is a living treasure. Look at thing. They wander in and ask what is new. There is a Alaïa, nothing curbs him. They believe in themselves BOOM BOOM LI: Whether it was the pre-fashion week buzz nice relationship, an exchange of ideas. I like to talk and they are marvelous examples for others.” in the air, the performance from a buzzed-about singer or the thunder rolling outside, the Top of The Standard An aged was a hotbed of stylish activity on Wednesday night. Amber and Klein will fete the Maybe it was just the fact that The Standard has reverted Valletta work at the Park Avenue to calling the space by its original onomatopoeia- MEMO PAD in W Armory with a new video worthy name, The Boom Boom Room. The scene, which magazine. installation called “Time included Elettra Wiedemann, Alexander Skarsgård and Lindsey SHUFFLING THE WACKERMANN DECK: Things seem to Capsule,” bringing to Wixson, among others, was certainly booming. be looking up at Glamour. First, the magazine has life this particular aging The packed crowd converged around midnight when a new publisher after almost a year of searching: process in short films that Swedish singer Lykke Li played a short set as part of the Jason Wagenheim, who most recently served as will be projected in an Fendi O music series. “I love performing in strange publisher of Entertainment Weekly. Shifting from a installation of 10 11-by-20-foot screens art directed by spaces,” Li said on her way into the room. “ Yo u never weekly entertainment title to a monthly fashion one Etienne Russo of Villa Eugenie. know what to expect. So you just got to go with your gut might seem a bit of a stretch, but prior to E W, Wagenheim For Valletta, the prospect of aging prematurely for feeling.” (She made good on the promise during the set spent seven years at Condé Nast as associate publisher the occasion with facial prosthetics was daunting at first when she used a Champagne flute held aloft by a fan of Vanity Fair, executive director of Condé Nast Media — particularly with the youth-obsessed industries that as a percussive instrument.) And would she be making Group and associate publisher of Condé Nast Traveler. she frequents. “I was a little scared,” she told WWD. “I any concessions to the fashion week set? “Fashion, For the time being, Wagenheim will report to Bill didn’t know if there would be some push back at me in smashion,” she said with a grin, “I don’t care.” Wackermann, executive vice president, publishing director the industry, but it’s been very positive. As a woman, I of Glamour, Bon Appétit, Details and W. was concerned, but art is about facing those fears and PROUD DAD: Hollywood heavyweight, venture capitalist Meanwhile, sources said Wackermann could exploring something you might not be ready to explore.” and proud father Michael Ovitz attended daughter be getting Allure and Lucky as part of his stable of Klein thought Valletta was perfect for the part: “Great Kimberly Ovitz’s debut runway collection on Thursday. turnaround projects. — AMY WICKS actresses empty themselves and become vessels “I’m nervous for her,” admitted Ovitz, “but so proud. channeling forces beyond them. She has this capacity.” She’s done this all on her own.” When asked if his GETTING OLD: In its September issue, W magazine Valletta is unlikely to show up as an octogenarian daughter has always been a fashion lover, he smiled featured a 20-page spread shot by Steven Klein and on Monday, but the experience taught the 37-year-old and recalled a recent home move. “When we were depicting Amber Valletta quite literally through the ages a few more things about beauty. “Age will happen to all packing up her old bedroom, we found all these — until the biblical age of 120. There’s more to the of us,” she said. “It’s a depiction of what a girl could fashion sketches that she’d drawn when she was about story, though. On Monday, W editor in chief Stefano Tonchi look like and still be fashionable.” — MARC KARIMZADEH nine and a half that were so great.” REDEFINING PAGE VIEWS OCTOBER 2011 Unbound Today, great content is embraced everywhere. At Hearst, this connection begins with the inspired new ways we use print and emerging platforms. It’s a pioneering spirit that’s always been a part of our DNA.

With surprising print technologies, robust websites, award-winning tablet editions and our new App Lab, Hearst is reimagining its 19 iconic brands. We’re curating branded e-commerce experiences and creating new social media initiatives. And iCrossing—our best-in-class digital marketing services agency—is helping us redefi ne what’s possible when engaging consumers.

Ours are the magazines that nearly 89 million readers* take everywhere. And we continue to take them further. Championing the magazine page. While exploring the possibilities beyond it.

*Fall 2010 MRI

CAR AND DRIVER | COSMOPOLITAN | COUNTRY LIVING | ELLE | ELLE DECOR | ESQUIRE | FOOD NETWORK MAGAZINE GOOD HOUSEKEEPING | HARPER’S BAZAAR | HOUSE BEAUTIFUL | MARIE CLAIRE | O, THE OPRAH MAGAZINE POPULAR MECHANICS | REDBOOK | ROAD & TRACK | SEVENTEEN | TOWN&COUNTRY | VERANDA | WOMAN’S DAY ICROSSING PLUS 25 DIGITAL BUSINESSES AND GROWING Unbound Today, great content is embraced everywhere. At Hearst, this connection begins with the inspired new ways we use print and emerging platforms. It’s a pioneering spirit that’s always been a part of our DNA.

With surprising print technologies, robust websites, award-winning tablet editions and our new App Lab, Hearst is reimagining its 19 iconic brands. We’re curating branded e-commerce experiences and creating new social media initiatives. And iCrossing—our best-in-class digital marketing services agency—is helping us redefi ne what’s possible when engaging consumers.

Ours are the magazines that nearly 89 million readers* take everywhere. And we continue to take them further. Championing the magazine page. While exploring the possibilities beyond it.

*Fall 2010 MRI

CAR AND DRIVER | COSMOPOLITAN | COUNTRY LIVING | ELLE | ELLE DECOR | ESQUIRE | FOOD NETWORK MAGAZINE GOOD HOUSEKEEPING | HARPER’S BAZAAR | HOUSE BEAUTIFUL | MARIE CLAIRE | O, THE OPRAH MAGAZINE POPULAR MECHANICS | REDBOOK | ROAD & TRACK | SEVENTEEN | TOWN&COUNTRY | VERANDA | WOMAN’S DAY ICROSSING PLUS 25 DIGITAL BUSINESSES AND GROWING 12 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2011 WWD.COM

FOR MORE IMAGES, FROM SEPHORA, SEE beauty WWD.com/ beauty-industry-news. Video monitors animate the Sephora Collection area.

▲ The chandelier in the fragrance area.

10 frames of animation of flowing leis, which constantly change, showing images of feathers, fruits and flowers. “This particular store is very unique because of where it is,” said Suliteanu. “The historical nature of the Meatpacking District, the strong influence of art in that community, has definitely influenced us to create a store that was designed to fit into that community. Are there prototype ideas there? Yes, and we’re delighted to be able to globally launch those in Manhattan. And the design itself is so uniquely tailored to the location in which it exists — both of those store environment con- siderations are going on at the same time.” Suliteanu noted that the retailer has wanted to open in the Meatpacking District for several years. “It’s an Sephora Goes Digital exciting, vibrant area which combines a growing retail presence with a lot of entertainment and art,” he said. Finding the right space, however, wasn’t quite as easy. What sold Sephora on the space: a visible street loca- {Continued from page one} two to three hours. That’s in every store; that is the an- tion and a high building presence, said Suliteanu. “Also, bit in increasing the vigilance of our people and their chor of our service commitment. And then we’ve inves- it’s not easy to find a footprint large enough for what we connection with clients.” It has another benefit as well, tigated and have experimented with other independent want. It took us some time.” he noted: “It dramatically reduces the amount of floor freestanding service offerings. The one that we’re cur- Manhattan has the highest concentration of Sephora space that we devote to that big monster cash wrap and rently piloting is the nail bar. We strongly felt that the stores in the U.S., noted Suliteanu. “Because of that, replaces it with exciting products and services.” world didn’t need another basic nail salon, so the orien- and because of [Manhattan]’s visibility, there’s definite- To that end, the Meatpacking store will house several tation of this particular nail service is very much around ly a focus on what happens there,” he said, adding that new-to-Sephora vendors — including cosmetics brands fashion nail looks, which are the rage right now.” the team refers to Manhattan internally as “the United Giorgio Armani, Koh Gen Do and Ellis Faas cosmetics. Suliteanu declined to discuss sales projections. States of Manhattan. We almost look at Manhattan as Another group of new brands will be housed in a Global Industry sources estimated that the Meatpacking store a separate country. Because of its prominence in this Beauty gondola, a first for the retailer. The fixture in- could do upward of $6 million in retail sales in its first country and its connection to fashion and art, it occu- cludes Tatcha Blotting Papers from Japan, Absolution year of operation. pies a special place in our strategy. Eye Cream from France, Omorovicza Thermal Cleansing Given the neighborhood, Sephora felt strongly about “We have not opened a new store in Manhattan in a Balm from Hungary and Phillip Martins Maple Wash and incorporating an art vibe into the store design. The key few years, so our thinking relative to the client experi- Rinse from Italy. “We’ve carefully curated the number piece — a flamenco dress with suspension techniques dis- ence has evolved a lot during that time frame,” continued of brands in this store,” he said. “We have our existing torted to represent the raw energy of a tornado — is by Suliteanu. “This store gives us an opportunity to put our brand partners, but we’re also keeping in mind that this Manhattan installation artist and sculptor E.V. Day. The most current thinking into Manhattan, and that think- is Manhattan and this is our 16th store in Manhattan — piece, “Flamenco Tornado,” is the first in a series com- ing includes some things that haven’t been tried before. and the client walks into this store and is expecting to missioned by Sephora. Free-form metal balls top the metal Notably, the advancement of the Sephora Collection brand see new brands.” All in all, he said, about 12 new ven- fixture for the store’s rollerball fragrance lineup, while a for the first time into a true unique brand experience dors, from all over the world, will join the fray at the curved fixture intended to represent the brand’s signa- which combines both makeup and accessories with some Meatpacking store. Suliteanu hopes to take the Global ture flame holds the Sephora Collection’s brush lineup. very colorful and uniquely designed fixturing and our first Beauty sku’s that sell well to other Sephora doors. Portland, Ore.’s Esque Studios created the striking fra- use of video technology. That’s an example of something The retailer has taken a lead in incorporating mobile grance chandelier, developing the bottle treatment to be we’ve been thinking about for awhile, but is a worldwide technology. An iPhone app was launched last October, evocative of perfumery bottles and custom-blowing them premiere at the Meatpacking store. [It is] the first perma- while an iPad app — which, among other features, to the shapes and colors Sephora required. Twisted white nent installation of the Sephora Hot Now, those fixtures brings together exclusive Sephora social content, e- pieces of glass commingled with the bottles are a wink that stand along the street wall, another global launch.” commerce, an interactive catalogue and how-to videos to the Sephora brand’s signature flame. Even the barri- Sephora opened its first U.S. door in SoHo in July — was introduced in July. cade hiding the storefront from public view includes art: 1998, followed by a 21,000-square-foot Rockefeller Center The mobile checkout was piloted on a smaller scale at a lenticular mural called “Transforming Beauty,” which store opening in October 1999. More than a decade later, the retailer’s store at 58th and Lexington this summer, in will come down on Sept. 13. Created by David Ellis in Suliteanu acknowledges that the beauty landscape is com- conjunction with the physical cash wrap. “With the combi- collaboration with female artists Maya Hayuk, Sasu and pletely different from what it was then. “The change has nation of the team getting excited about it and clients loving Yuri Shimoho, the 10-foot-by-100-foot piece comprises been dramatic,” he said. “Our thinking about the beauty it, we estimate that about 90 percent of the transactions [in industry has evolved on three fronts. One is the store that store] are being done now on mobile,” said Suliteanu. itself, the second is the product that we carry and the “If that experience is any indication, I think the client third are our people and the kind of service we deliver. experience at the Meatpacking store will be a positive.” Truthfully, on all three of those pillars on which the busi- Mobile POS will be rolled out to about 50 additional stores ness has been built, the change has been huge. If you were by year-end 2011 and to a yet-to-be-determined number of to take a snapshot of a store which we built in 2001 — and stores in 2012, said Suliteanu. “Whether or not it is as ex- we have some that are left — and fast-forward to that store tensive as what we have in Meatpacking I can’t say yet, but in Meatpacking or the store we just built in Aventura, at this point, we would probably say that the next genera- Fla., it couldn’t be more different. So much more dramat- tion of stores would probably have fixed POS devices but ic, more visually powerful, easier to shop, cleaner. The less of them, in a smaller footprint, and would expect our product itself — we’re still in the same businesses. We transactions to be a mixture of fixed and mobile POS.” still stand for fragrance and skin care and makeup, and In the Beauty Art Studio portion of the Meatpacking now hair care — but the evolution of the product mix, the store, four double-sided glass, chrome and black fixtures brands over a 10-year period, has been dramatic. From with LED screens on each side dominate. Each station our standpoint, there was a time when we opened that we features lighting that is adjustable to six settings: daylight, didn’t have many of the department store brands. Now, we moonlight, candlelight, fluorescent light, incandescent have most of them. The smaller brands that we grew up light and studio lighting. Smaller versions of the mirrors with, most of them are still with us, but they’re now bigger are installed at the end of each cosmetics gondola. The brands, and we’re introducing a whole new community of Meatpacking store also includes a Sephora Nail Studio brands including ones we’ve created ourselves, like Hello Art + Lacquer Services featuring XpresSpa installation, Kitty and Kat Von D. And on the service front, we have a concept the retailer introduced at its 5 Times Square 10 years invested in education. We’ve opened Sephora and Powell Street San Francisco doors on July 25. The University. We’ve made all of that come to life in our new installations feature nail art services, using Sephora by Beauty Studios in the last 12 months. The Beauty Studios OPI, Illamasqua, Dior, Nars, Nails Inc. London, Perfect are a hub of service activity.” Formula and Sephora Collection products. Suliteanu noted that further innovations are on tap “We’ve been very careful with the way we’ve ap- for Manhattan Sephora stores in 2012. “This is part of

proached the service part of our business,” said ERICKSEN our belief in and commitment to Manhattan. We have Suliteanu. “The Beauty Studio is the hub of our service several major capital investments,” he said, declining to offering — that is built around the services our cast give specifics, “that we are going to make in Manhattan members are trained to provide, from 10-minute express Free-form metal balls top the Rollerball Boutique. in 2012. Meatpacking is a great example of that, but

services to a personal beauty consultation that can take PHOTOS BY KYLE you’re going to see several more in 2012.” carry“my on has a handle on style.”

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DBP, Toluene and America’s nail salon expert. Formaldehyde free Since 1981. essie.com 14 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2011 WWD.COM beauty Gurwitch Products Eyes Aggressive Growth running with the big dogs.” By PETE BORN The company confirmed A Laura that it ranks ninth in the Mercier GURWITCH PRODUCTS LLC is on a U.S. department store makeup growth kick, and it’s not wasting time. makeup category. Grant as- display. Six months after taking the helm as serted, “It is a strong con- president and chief executive officer, tender in a strong makeup Claudia Poccia has mapped out a growth artist trend.” plan by amping up the fi rm’s marketing While it is still early of its fl agship Laura Mercier Cosmetics days since the advertising brand, driven by a multiplatform media and new digital material campaign centered on the founding make- broke, there are signs of a up artist’s fl awless fi nish credo. Also, the response. The number of company plans to relaunch and expand Facebook “likes” has in- its RéVive luxury skin care brand next creased 5.8 percent since year by taking steps to increase consumer Aug. 1, and the brand has awareness and doubling the business in attracted a Facebook fan existing retail accounts. base of over 41,600, accord- Poccia noted that the Mercier brand ing to the company. The continues on a global basis to outpace overall Facebook engage- market growth, and RéVive is also accel- ment level has risen by 60 erating market growth in North America percent since and is on pace internationally. the beginning of A new advertising and social-media August. Poccia push was launched last month to expand added that BY PHOTO Mercier’s community of consumers and the number of

professional makeup artists with video Facebook post- CHINSEE GEORGE and interactive programs on Facebook, ings increased YouTube, Twitter and the Mercier Web 36 percent in site. A mobile app is also in the works. the month to Poccia is moving to further develop nearly 1 million the logistical infrastructure. A U.K. of- views. Moreover, fi ce is scheduled to open in November. It e-commerce is seen as a stepping-stone to a planned sales have Flawless Finish look. The ers, makeup artists and Mercier herself. overseas expansion, including a debut for jumped 25 per- campaign and the posi- Ellen Greenwald, chief market- Mercier in the travel retail market, per- cent in the same tioning of the brand stems ing offi cer, said that last year the com- haps by the end of 2012 or beginning of period. from Mercier’s approach pany launched a “What Is Flawless?” 2013. Poccia expects the Mercier brand to The overall to beauty, which evolved campaign and asked women to answer enter China within 18 months and she has business, which from her background as the question. “Thousands” of answers an eye on Latin America as a long-term had been grow- a painter in her native poured in, and the responses led to this goal. The 15-year-old makeup artist brand ing at a double- Provence, France. year’s “Flawless Has Many Faces” ad- now has a distribution of just under 1,000 digit rate, has “Her philosophy was vertising, said Greenwald. “The effort doors and also does business in the U.K., picked up added Claudia that you have to have a spread out across different media plat- Germany, France, Spain, Italy and parts of speed of a few Poccia great canvas, and your forms because [the consumer] is really Asia. RéVive, which was founded about 13 more points, canvas has to be pre- engaging in all different places.” years ago by plastic surgeon Dr. Gregory according to a pared and be fl awless so The professional makeup artist com- Bays Brown, is sold in about 175 doors, number of in- that then you can work munity is included in the conversation, mostly specialty stores. dustry sourc- with colors to create your Poccia noted, adding that “the whole In the midst of all these expansion es, who estimate the size of the total vision,” Poccia said. She added that, as idea here is that every fl awless face has ideas, Mercier and Poccia have decided Gurwitch business at between $180 mil- a result, Mercier created categories of a secret.” it’s time to give back. Poccia said the lion and $240 million wholesale. Poccia business like foundation primer, tinted Greenwald agreed, “Our key engage- two women have drafted the framework declined comment since Gurwitch does moisturizer and secret camoufl age, an ment is to really activate them to come of a social responsibility plan to fi ght not break out numbers. It is thought that imperfection corrector. These elements share their secrets, and we’re going to ovarian cancer. about 80 percent of the total business is were marketed together into four steps share ours. Right now we’ve collected But she is keeping an eye on the big done by the Mercier brand. designed to help women achieve a de- secrets from Laura herself, and we’re picture. “Our overarching objective is to Sources speculate that Gurwitch’s ul- sired fi nish. The company maintains asking celebrities, beauty insiders and create a house of prestige beauty, a port- timate goal is to eventually build global that its tinted moisturizer is the indus- tastemakers to share their secrets with folio of businesses that meet the needs sales volume to $500 million to $1 billion try leader with more than a million us. And we’ll be posting secrets, we’ll be of the luxury consumer in the cosmetics at wholesale. units sold annually, and there are plans asking questions to really start a conver- space,” Poccia said. The battle plan is based on build- to catapult that business over the next sation, but not just your beauty secrets. Karen Grant, vice president and se- ing market share for the Mercier brand 12 to 18 months. Share your secrets about life, your se- nior global industry analyst of The NPD in the U.S., then expanding it overseas Poccia said when she fi rst joined the crets about love, your secrets how to get Group, said, “The makeup and treatment in 2013, principally by putting the ad- company, succeeding Sharon Collier, she through a day at work.” are doing very well — period. They are vertising focus on Mercier’s signature noticed “a consistency of message, ap- The interactive idea also was pressed plication and a vision across [Mercier’s] into service for at least one product counters around the world. That ema- launch, the introduction of a collection The bath and body section. Some core nates from Laura spending time with the of shades of caviar sticks used as eye Mercier artists and really telling them what her color. Flip-cams were given to makeup products. philosophy is. And that really is that she artists at Saks Fifth Avenue so they could believes that every woman is naturally video the application on the caviar sticks beautiful and that a woman radiates when and upload the result on YouTube and she feels like a better version of herself.” their own Facebook pages. Mercier also The company has capitalized on this launched a kit for making smoky eyes. base by increasing advertising spending The recently drafted social responsi- fi vefold with a war chest estimated by bility plank of the company’s spreading industry sources at $8 million this year. platform came into being partly because A new print ad, photographed by Daniel Mercier and Poccia have been connected Jackson under the direction of creative to women stricken by ovarian cancer. “We director Robert J. Luzzi, is appearing have a very personal connection, and we in 12 national magazines. As part of the are committed to making a difference,” social-media campaign, digital content said Poccia, who asserted that ovarian has been created for the brand’s pages cancer is the fi fth-leading cause of death on Twitter, Facebook and YouTube, as among women. well as on lauramercier.com. In addition, The plan is the raise money for the eight videos, featuring four of the brand’s Ovarian Cancer Research Fund, and Poccia makeup artists, have been produced to hopes to have a program up and running by appear on lauramercier.com. the end of the year. “If we can do one quar- One tactic that the company is using to ter of what the industry does for breast can- GEORGE CHINSEE foster a cult atmosphere on the social-me- cer research, we would be satisfi ed,” she dia sites is to tease out the offering of tips, said. “It’s a brand with a purpose, and we

PHOTO BY or secrets, in makeup use from consum- are two women with a mission.” advertiseMent

The New wave photographed by Peter Gabriel

The Naturals

IFF’s perfumers Clement Gavarry, Yves Cassar, and Jean Marc Chaillan have a great deal in common: passion for using natural ingredients, a true knowledge of their art, and a connection to Grasse, France, the birthplace of perfumery. They are influenced by the scents around them wherever they go, and have the skills to turn their inspiration into magic. An avid traveler, Cassar is constantly seeking beautiful aromas in new places. “I am always intrigued when I go somewhere,” he says, “I smell flowers, vegetables— anything I can get my nose on. You don’t smell wisteria and lilac every day, so when it is there, you know it.” The artisan, who often draws ideas from his own flower garden, created Quizas by Loewe featuring jasmine sambac absolute from India. In perfumery, naturals do not include just florals, but also many different varieties of woods, spices like pepper, and gourmand notes like bran and hay. “I always use naturals as a starting point,” Gavarry says. “Today naturals are high-tech. They are tailored, thanks to molecular distillation, to answer the needs of contemporary perfumery.” Gavarry created pureDKNY a drop of Verbena by The Estée Lauder Companies, featuring notes of Verbena Basil.* Chaillan grew up surrounded by scents: his grandfather’s lavender fields, and the air of Grasse, where he spent a portion of his childhood. He is also influenced by years spent in Brazil. “It is an enchanted country, with vibrant people full of passion!” Chaillan is passionate about the use of natural ingredients in his work. “Natural materials give products another dimension— they are alive!” He is the creator of Live in Love by Oscar de la Renta, featuring one of his favorite naturals, galbanum.* *IFF-LMR Naturals Clockwise from top: Yves Cassar, Clement Gavarry, and Jean Marc Chaillan. 2.5x7 (left)

16 WWD friday, september 9, 2011

16: Goldman; Made Made: Out to Build a Fashion Community place at Milk studios and The standard with its sponsors provide opportunities By Lisa Lockwood hotel. Fourteen will be runway shows to the design community on a year-round and 27 are presentations. in addition, basis. “it’s not a sponsorship. it’s a partner- NEw YoRk — Made, the new name for Made Fashion week will highlight events ship. it’s really about, ‘How do you get in- the Mac & Milk fashion shows, has en- such as a Larry clark photo exhibi- volved to benefit the fashion community?’” tered its fifth season with a full slate of tion; the alexander wang after party, said Baptista. To be sure, certain amenities events, fashion shows and presentations, and a panel discussion on “Technology are slated exclusively for fashion week. For as well as a host of big-name sponsors. — How Fashion communicates.” example, Lexus will have a fleet of 10 cars in addition to a redesigned web site, The independent Fashion Blogger for showgoers to go uptown. They will also milkmade.com, which launched Thursday, conference, which took place wednesday, have a special concierge number that ViPs there are new partnerships with Lexus, was also part of Made Fashion week. all can call for rides. LG, the mobile phone american Express and LG Electronics this activity is intended to expand Made company, sponsored the fashion and tech- Mobile communications co., and rep- into a year-round platform for emerging nology panel, and american Express offers resentation by Hollywood powerhouse design talent, as well as other innovators. show tickets to key customers. creative artists agency. other spon- in a telephone interview from Los it’s all getting to sound very much like sors include aldo, Blue Bottle coffee, angeles, Mitch Grossbach, an executive at Mercedes-Benz Fashion week at Lincoln Mazdack kanon organic Vodka, Leica camera, caa, said he’s been working with Made for center, owned by iMG, but the Made offi- Rassi, Jenné Livestream, The standard New York, the past several months. caa plans to con- cials insist there’s no rivalry. Lombardo and True Religion apparel inc. and Vimeo. nect these designers with brands and media. “one of the things people don’t realize Keith Baptista.

in an interview at Milk studios with He said Made would continue to focus on the is there’s no cost for the space,” said Rassi. JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY Made co-directors Mazdack Rassi, co- creative end of things, while caa would aug- Generally, a fashion show could cost a de- founder and creative director of Milk ment that with bringing third-party brand signer anywhere from $75,000 to $500,000 ness if it wasn’t making money, said sources. studios; Jenné Lombardo, global fashion opportunities and media to the table. These and upwards, said Baptista. at Made, the The Made principals said they would director of w Hotels, and keith Baptista, would be in the worlds of digital, television space is provided for free, as well as the like to take Made Fashion week to Paris senior vice president, production at kcd, and social media. “our focus is to help the makeup, seating, lighting and sound. The and tap into the emerging design commu- the executives spoke about Made’s mission Made platform grow as a property. it’s not as only expenses for the designer are a music nity there. and what they hope to accomplish with the much about individual designers, but more person, models, a hair person and collec- Lombardo said Made Fashion week added support. “it’s physically no different. about the Milk and Made team and creating tion-related expenses. “still a lot of people had implications beyond the walls of we’re pretty much on autopilot,” said Rassi. long-term strategic and meaningful opportu- don’t know that this program is an incred- Milk studios, impacting local businesses while Mac cosmetics remains the exclu- nities,” said Grossbach. ible launch pad to help those designers,” and instituting an educational outreach sive makeup sponsor and “is still an impor- He said caa has a wealth of blue-chip said Rassi. “There’s this whole idea out program. students from Parsons The tant part of the program,” Made has broad- brands, and relationships with executive vice there that perhaps there’s a competition New school for design work behind-the- ened its reach to new partners to build on presidents and chief marketing officers who between uptown and downtown. There is scenes at the fashion shows and presen- the program and ensure its longevity. are looking for integrative opportunities. none. we don’t compete with each other. tations. shows are Livestreamed on milk- “we need to evolve this into a more sub- “They come to caa and ask us to introduce we’re a completely different idea.” made.com. This season, accessories and stantial program. we dissolved the Milk & us to those opportunities. Milk is a 365-day asked if Made Fashion week makes men’s wear will also be getting a bigger Mac name,” said Baptista. asked why they functioning business. There’s a ton of activity money, Rassi said that all the money from play at Made, said Lombardo. chose the name Made, Rassi said they were that happens all year. it makes for fantastic sponsorships is poured back into the de- “we used to be a photography studio,” looking for a name with movement. “Made content that can occur all year long. we’ll be signers and the program. “we’ve never been said Rassi. “Today it’s more of a media had motion, and it represented us,” he said. bringing those executives to the property over a for-profit model,” said Rassi. while it’s a company that has space. it’s really about Throughout the week, some 40 fash- the next few weeks,” he said. much more expensive proposition uptown, content and creativity. That’s what Milk ’’ ion shows and presentations will take By expanding its reach, Made will work iMG wouldn’t be in the fashion-show busi- does every day.” Execs Offer Tepid Fall Outlook 6 percent, 7 percent [price increases] By EVaN cLaRk on top of a $30 blouse, you’re not talk- ing about a decision, ‘i’ll buy it, or i RETaiL ExEcuTiVEs at the final day won’t buy it,’ for the most part, at least For the truly creative mind, of Goldman sachs’ Eighteenth annual for the Macy’s consumer.” Global Retailing conference offered, at best, a tempered outlook for investors. Douglas Scovanner, executive vice president kevin Mansell, chairman, president and chief financial officer, Target Corp. a good idea is just the beginning. and chief executive officer at kohl’s ■ “we are far more heavily concentrated corp., said the retail climate had from a sales standpoint among our very “turned really negative” over the past best guests than anybody else at mass. two months and douglas scovanner, we look more like Neiman’s, or saks or executive vice president and chief fi- Nordstrom in that sense. Ten percent of School of Continuing and Professional Studies nancial officer at Target corp., said the the households who shop with us drive Over 3,000 courses in art, design, business, and technology. bottom line was being impacted by sales almost half of our sales. and those aren’t that are “more challenging” than pre- households that split neatly along in- dicted at the onset of 2011. come lines; it’s by no means the best 10 THIS FALL YOU CAN: But Terry Lundgren, chairman, percent of our households by income.” • Study evenings, weekends, and online president and chief executive officer, Macy’s inc., might have summed up the Richard Dickson, president and ceo of The • Enroll in a degree or certifi cate program prevailing retail mood best: “i guess Jones Group Inc.’s branded businesses • Take affordable credit and noncredit courses you can say that we’re planning a slow- ■ “acquisitions are not front of mind down, but not a significant one. and today....i would think now that [stock] that’s the trend that we’re buying into.” buybacks would really be first.” Go to fi tnyc.edu/wwd today to view Here are highlights from the second ■ “Jones New York...is probably the most day of the two-day conference. important brand in terms of the revital- courses and register online, or ization project. it’s in a traditional space, call 888-FIT-IS-NYC x9 to Kevin Mansell, chairman, president and chief which right now is also challenged. we’re in request a catalogue. executive officer, Kohl’s Corp. a slow moving boat, and we are not alone.” ■ “Things have turned really negative in the last 60 days. we definitely see differenc- Dennis Secor, chief financial officer, Guess Inc. FIT is a State University of New York college. es in the way our customer is behaving. our ■ “Last year, we did a lot more promoting proprietary [credit] card customer, who is and a lot more markdowns than we want- really a loyal customer, has actually stayed ed to do, and we did more of it than is re- pretty loyal. our noncard customer, who ally appropriate for our brand. so i think typically is a more infrequent shopper and that’s one of the catalysts….we’re in it for probably a little less loyal...they’ve really the long term, and the actions we’re tak- dramatically reduced the number of visits ing are really going to help both build and and the number of transactions they make.” preserve the brand for the long term.”

Terry Lundgren, chairman, president and chief Neil Cole, chairman, president and ceo of executive officer, Macy’s Inc. Iconix Brand Group Inc. ■ “a lot of what is really working for us ■ “The consumer is still out there con- is newness....we’ve been injecting a lot of suming, pretty much top to bottom. we’re personal appearances and activities. You seeing from the luxury segment down to tell a 12-year-old girl that she can’t have the mass segment [that] business is ok, Fashion Institute of Technology her Justin Bieber fragrance, and good [and] we’re on track for a record year and Where creativity gets down to business. luck with that. she’s going to convince pretty excited about the opportunities.” you otherwise.” — With contributions from ■ “when you’re talking about 5 percent, Vicki m. Young and arnold J. karr

w09a016a;8.indd 1 9/8/11 7:52 PM 09082011195259 WWDSTYLE

Waiting For Bieber Perhaps no scene better captured the contained bedlam of Fashion’s Night Out than the throngs of teenage girls at Dolce & Gabbana’s Madison Avenue shop not-so-patiently waiting to catch a glimpse of teen idol Justin Bieber. For more views and dispatches from the action in New York and Europe on Thursday night, see pages 18 and 19.

PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER 18 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2011

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ZJYHTISPUN[OY\HTVI[VIHY[LUK'JVHJO MITRA, LEXIE MORELAND WHALEN AND KRISTEN SOMODY ROBERT ERICKSEN, LAUREN FLEISHMAN, JENNA GREENE, THOMAS IANNACCONE, DOMINIQUE MAITRE, TODD MATARAZZO,

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(UK[OL[^LL[Z^LU[VUPU[V[OLUPNO[ KYLE STEVE EICHNER, ANDREA DELBO, Oscar de la Renta PHOTOS BY WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 9, 2011 19 WWD.COM

Justin Bieber at Dolce & Gabbana in New ck York.

Miss Piggy and Opening Ceremony’s Humberto Leon at Nicki Minaj the Ace Hotel in New York. at Yves Saint Laurent in New York.

Jean Paul Kenneth Cole in New York. Gaultier in Paris.

Lea Michele at Saks Fifth Avenue in New York.

FOR MORE FASHION’S NIGHT OUT, SEE WWD.com/eye.

For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. Spaces COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE RETAIL SALES British Luxury label CHOCHENG seek- ing FT/PT sales professionals for Mad Av store. Store carries womens-wear & multiple access collection w/ Royal Showrooms & Lofts Warrants from Queen Elizabeth II. Com- BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS petitive salary and benefits. Exp in Great ’New’ Office Space Avail high-end apparel & access retailing, ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Exp in cashier & alteration, Fluent Eng & Bilingual A+ Retail exp on Mad Av A+ Send CV to: [email protected]

PLANNER ...... $70 - $90K Kohl’s, Wal Mart, North NJ. Jennifer Glenn SRI Search 212 465 8300 [email protected]

Elle Fanning at Marc by Marc Jacobs (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] in New York. 64.99 to 399.99 BB0B::'B&:UDSLQGGBS

FOR TARGET® 2.99 – 69.99 SEPTEMBER 13 to OCTOBER 22 ©2011 Target Stores. Target and the Bullseye Design are registered trademarks of Target Brands, Inc. All rights reserved. Prices not applicable in Alaska and Hawaii. 091319 Brands, Inc. All rights reserved. trademarks of Target registered and the Bullseye Design are Target Stores. ©2011 Target

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