The unique taste of Hungary! Hungarian gastronomy’s COMING HOME “Our cuisine, our dishes, just like our music and our lan- The words of Károly Gundel, renowned turn-of-the-cen- Growing numbers of well-educated and well-travelled awareness of sadly neglected vegetables, such as buckwheat guage, contrast with those of western people; however, tury Hungarian restaurateur and writer are more relevant people — both youngsters and those in mid-career — are — traditionally cultivated in Hungary — or Jerusalem arti- we can certainly say that such comparisons are not to today than ever. Over recent years, we have been party to choosing hospitality or related professions: from animal chokes. Hungary’s disadvantage. To know all this is not merely in- the phenomenon of Hungarian cuisine gradually going back farming through wine making to producing artisanal food. There is increasing demand in retail and hospitality for teresting, but useful.” to its roots. And cultivating these roots in our 21st-century Growing numbers are going back to their roots and thus artisanal foods from small-scale producers, instead of (Károly Gundel) world is generating excitement and new challenges, which swelling the ranks of Hungarian experts. Such experts mass-market products. Selected sausages and bacon from is what makes contemporary Hungarian cuisine so exciting. have revived forgotten Carpathian Basin grape varieties Hungarian smokeries, long-matured cheeses or palinka. and saved Hungarian animal breeds and plant varieties The latter had for years not received its due recognition which had disappeared for centuries. These are now taking until recently. This shows that methods for producing food pride of place in top gastronomy. One of the most signifi- and drink which go back centuries have not been forgotten cant achievements of these efforts is the rediscovery of in- after all. Products made in this way can now take pride of ternationally renowned Mangalica pork. Another is a new place on the Hungarian market and abroad. 4 5 Taste HUNGARY! Hungarian hospitality is legendary, but what is the state-of- centuries of heritage inspiring creative thinking and solu- international successes: bocuse d’or and new michelin stars play for contemporary Hungarian gastronomy? This can be tions. This is as true in gastronomy as in any other field. Hungarian gastronomy is vibrant and flourishing so much that an increasing num- answered with some pride: after all, in a short time, Hun- Nowadays, the philosophy in top restaurants is based upon ber of young, creative professionals are drawn to the attractive career opportu- garian gastronomy has undergone such a quantum leap that an amalgamation of Hungarian ingredients and techniques nities it offers. In addition to the recognition that Hungarian gastronomy has won offering culinary experiences has become one of the most from high-level international gastronomy. This new direc- at home, and thanks to the Michelin-starred restaurants and hospitality businesses important driving forces in the Hungarian economy. It tion represents professionalism deserving of global respect included in the Michelin Guide, Hungary has developed an international profile as a would be fair to say that visitors who have not yet become while remaining true to Hungary’s culinary assets — break- culinary destination. This breakthrough for Hungarian gastronomy was heralded by acquainted with Hungarian gastronomy have not yet be- ing free of international trends — to create what we know the victory of top Hungarian chef Tamás Széll as European champion at the Bocuse come acquainted with the real Hungary. today as Hungarian gastronomy. Not so long ago, it would d’Or in 2016. This was followed by the success of the Onyx restaurant in 2018, when have been unthinkable for a regional, country-style Hungar- it became Central and Eastern Europe’s first two-star Michelin restaurant, as an- hungarian flavours — tradition with a side order ian dish to appear on the menu of a top-class restaurant; yet nounced at the Michelin Guide Main Cities of Europe award gala in Budapest. While of innovation nowadays, ground-breaking Hungarian chefs are proudly in 2019, two Hungarian restaurants, Stand and Babel, were awarded Michelin stars at The Hungarian national character has long relished walk- reinventing such time-honoured recipes. once, thus joining the ranks of Michelin-starred restaurants, alongside Borkonyha, ing the tightrope between tradition and innovation, with Costes and Costes Downtown. 6 7 19 Culinary 2 12 17 9 MAP 17 5 31 24 13 17 MEAT AND FISH 15 25 1 Mangalica pork 16 Lorem ipsum 2 Mutton 11 3 Goose 17 36 37 1 4 Duck 23 7 1 5 Game (deer, wild boar, roe deer) 29 FRUITS 6 Hungarian fleckvieh 6 5 14 2 7 Hungarian grey cattle 15 Black-heart cherry 8 Carp 32 16 Sour cherry 9 Trout 10 17 Apple 10 Catfish 18 Chestnut 11 Rooster 5 19 Apricot 5 19 20 20 Pear 35 22 20 21 Quince MUSHROOMS 24 10 22 Almond 11 21 8 8 23 Watermelon 12 Cep 7 13 Champion 24 Walnut 14 Truffle 5 25 Plum 24 26 VEGETABLES 13 5 28 6 26 Paprika 27 3 4 30 34 26 27 Onion 18 14 8 28 Garlic 34 10 29 Horseradish 33 30 Potato 33 31 Pumpkin 32 Cabbage 33 Wild garlic 34 Asparagus 35 Squash 36 Carrot 37 Celery Let’s cook Hungarian style! TYPICAL HUNGARIAN INGREDIENTS star ingredient: “mangalica is the kobe beef of the archetypical gourmet treat: foie gras pork” Did you know? The practice of fattening geese for Of course, goose liver is delicious in itself; still, foie gras lends Did you know? This comparison is a quote from the rich in flavour and healthy, unsaturated fats. Thanks to herb- their liver has its roots in nature. a special glamour to any dish. Hungarian goose liver has won a international online magazine Finedininglovers.com. rich pastures, traditional, regionally produced feed, and nat- well-deserved international reputation; a product of outstand- ural husbandry methods, the meat of these free-range ani- As with other animals, geese store fat for the winter; before flying ing quality, it is exported throughout Europe and further afield, The writer was referring to the texture of the meat: purebred mals is mature and high in nutrients. It is not only a star on south for the winter, they undergo a period of “over-eating”. including Asia. Ambrosia for high days and holidays, it is ex- Mangalica pork is unmistakably unique and defies compar- menus in Hungary but has also begun appearing at gourmet When the birds were domesticated, people copied this pattern, cellent as a hot or cold starter. It pairs equally well with fruits, ison with any other kind of pork. Generously marbled, it is restaurants abroad. leading to the creation of a gourmet food: foie gras. preserves or spicy flavours. INGREDIENTS 10 11 INGREDIENTS natural excellence — game meat in hungary our everyday hero: paprika the made in hungary selection: duck liver Did you know? When Hungary’s first Michelin-starred Did you know? “Édesnemes” or sweet paprika, which con- Did you know? Duck liver is one of the ingredients featured in the restaurant, Costes, opened in 2008, finding consist- tinues to be the most highly prized of Hungarian papri- “Made in Hungary” gastronomy alliance launch year in 2019. ently available, high-quality ingredients from Hunga- kas, was produced for the first time in 1859, by the Pálfy ry posed a real challenge. One of the first challenges brothers in the city of Szeged, in southern Hungary. The alliance’s objective is to work with the best Hungarian chefs to pro- was sourcing game, despite it having been a well- mote pairing of the country’s prestigious, internationally renowned in- known export product for many years. This was the first sweet paprika; then all red Hungarian paprika gredients; it is like a kind of gastronomic matchmaker. The first of these had been hot and spicy. At that time, it was only possible to re- pairings is duck liver and the top product in Hungarian viniculture: Hungarian game is an organic-type product because even duce the heat of paprika by processing; it took some decades be- 6 puttonyos Tokaji Aszú. though it does not come from certified organic farms, Hun- fore Hungarian varieties were bred to be sweet instead of spicy. Duck liver is a true gourmet ingredient and infinitely suitable for gary’s forests and fields provide a natural environment At home, cheery, bright red peppers drying in the sun are part demonstrating the depths of Hungarian cuisine: it is a quality foodstuff which produces excellent meat, whether poultry or larger of Hungarian rural scenery; while further afield, Hungarian pa- which requires careful storage and a memorable delicacy of great versatil- game. Deer, roe deer, wild boar, brown hare, pheasant and prika is a trademark of the country’s gastronomy. This ingredi- ity. It is a perfect partner for Hungarian wines, including Tokaji Aszú and wild duck are familiar on menus, but popular Hungarian ent, along with goulash (originally: “gulyás”) continues to be one other naturally sweet Tokaj wines. game animals include the mouflon, partridge and quail as of the first things to come to mind when you think of Hungarian Without question, duck liver finds its place alongside goose liver among well. cuisine. Meanwhile, in Hungary, there is such a variety of uses gourmet foodstuffs. The advantage of this characteristic part of the bird It is a little-known fact that game in Hungary is extremely for paprika that there are probably as many Hungarian terms for is that it is easy to handle and does not lose much fat during frying. Its well managed and most of the meat produced in this way is peppers and paprika as there are Inuit words for snow.