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FOUR SEASONS MAGAZINE BRIGHTBRIGHTGREAGREATT CITIESCITIES LIGHTSLIGHTS ATAT NIGHTNIGHT SHOP ISTANBUL MAKING THE CUT FASHION TAKES ON SAVILE ROW STYLE PULSE WHAT WORKS FOR FALL Move over, Miami. Mexico City, the very heart of Mexico and that other great gateway to all of Latin America, has become one of the art world’s most vibrant creative centres, with an ever-expanding art market and a solid base of superb museums, galleries, and year-round cultural attractions. Buoyed by the renaissance of architecturally rich dis- tricts like Condesa, an art deco jewel, and the bustling Centro Histórico, the city’s land- mark-filled downtown—proud symbols of local developers’, designers’, and artists’ entrepreneurial energy—the Mexican capital has launched an international art fair, too: México Arte Contemporáneo (MACO). As Mexico’s artistic, economic, and political nerve centre, Mexico City is a place of richly overlapping (some might say constantly colliding) cultures: ancient and modern; indigenous, European, and North American. For art- makers and art lovers alike, this potent mixture of energies and influences—of time rushing forward in la vida loca and history surging forth at every turn—has become the intriguing, irresistible essence of Mexico City’s 21st-century allure. Read on for an overview of Mexico City’s art scene. The time-pressed can focus on the short lists of artists and galleries. Mexican Art, ThenWith roots andin a figurative Now art Numerous artists in Mexico, tradition that stretched back aware of what their modernist to ancient Mesoamerican peers in Europe and North carvings, the great social- America were up to, chafed at realist muralists of the early government support of the 20th century—Diego Rivera, stylized mural painters. The José Clemente Orozco, David late-1950s “Rupture genera- Alfaro Siqueiros—produced tion” movement, led by MEXICO some of Mexico’s most painter-printmaker José Luis Art dealers Eduardo emblematic art, often cen- Cuevas, encouraged them to Mier y Terán (left) of tered on political and histori- break with the muralists’ aes- Terreno Baldío Arte cal themes. Mexican surreal- thetics and doctrines and and Santiago Toca ists, including Remedios explore more individualistic, at the studio of sculptor Varo, from Spain, and expressionistic modes. In the Javier Marín Leonora Carrington, from 1990s, artist Gabriel Orozco’s Britain, produced paintings international success helped whose air of fantasy had an open the floodgates to a tide CITY affinity with a local sensibili- of conceptualist strategies Mining for in an emerging art capital ty shaped by myth, supersti- that still prevail in contempo- tion, and a penchant for rary Mexican art. TEXT AND PHOTOShot BY new EDWARD stars M. GÓMEZ melodrama. CREDIT 198 FALL 2007 199 sumer culture are some of the 7319) and LA REFACCIONARIA big influences on the young (Bucareli 128 E-40, Centro; artists whose works are shown 55/5512-0012) are two recently here, including Humberto opened spaces showcasing a Duque’s watercolours and goofy wide range of conceptualist and mixed-media constructions sometimes pop-flavoured emerg- (Álvaro Obregón 49, Roma; ing artists’ works. La Refaccio- 55/5207-9858). naria is housed in the renovated INTERART Armando Zesatti’s former stable of a palatial 1922 hyperrealist landscapes are building that architecture buffs among this chic gallery’s biggest should not miss. Liliana Ramales, hits (Dickens 33-C, Polanco; a maker of wildly coloured paint- 55/5282-2001). ings and mixed-media installa- KBK ARTE CONTEMPORÁNEO tions—like Cosmic (2007), con- Argentine dealer Ubaldo Kramer sisting of 96 enamel-painted shows sculpture by Darío coconuts—is one of the gallery’s Escobar and drawings and rising stars. mixed-media installations by SANTIAGO TOCA ART Moris, a young Mexican who CONSULTING A by-appointment finds inspiration in street ven- gallery with a penchant for new Renato Garza Cervera, whose dors’ stalls and do-it-yourself forms of abstraction, like the Escape (2005) is a wall-mounted shelters. Escobar, a Guatemalan, texture-rich canvases and works cross from which a furtive Christ covers skateboards and baseball on paper of the Spanish- Cool has descended (Lord Byron 53, bats in silver, using decorative Mexican painter Jordi Boldó galleries Polanco; 55/5281-3674). embossing techniques that (Avenida México 33, Interior F, Galleries in Mexico City are GALERÍA EL ESTUDIO Work evoke the over-the-top stylings Condesa; 55/5256-0868). more spread out than they are by emerging artists and, for of the region’s Spanish-baroque TERRENO BALDÍO ARTE in New York or Paris, but many Leonora Carrington fans, works past (Petrarca 239-8, Polanco; Javier Marín, one of Mexico’s are located in the northwestern on paper by the legendary artist, 55/5250-7147). leading contemporary sculptors, colonia of Polanco and, just to now 90, who lives in the neigh- KURIMANZUTTO This itinerant shows figurative work in bronze, the south, in Roma. Among the bourhood (Álvaro Obregón 73, gallery has no permanent exhibi- clay, and resin at this much- hottest venues: Roma; 55/5525-1339). tion space but instead helps watched young gallery, which ALFREDO GINOCCHIO ARTE GALERÍA ENRIQUE GUERRERO artists present their creations in he co-founded. Also featured: INTERNACIONAL Formerly Praxis Artemio, a mixed-media artist unusual locations—a fresh-food sculptor Héctor Velázquez’s Arte Internacional, this outpost who works in metal or neon or market, an amusement park— eerily beautiful yarn-covered for emerging and established with found materials, and Jésica and at international art venues. human forms—heads, hands, Mexican contemporary artists López, who paints portraits Its stars include Gabriel Orozco, and mysterious, gaping mouths Gabriel Orozco at offers atmospheric photos of in acrylic on yellow legal-pad Damián Ortega, and Miguel (Orizaba 87, Roma; 55/5511- SHORT LIST: ARTISTS Kurimanzutto. Behind photo-projections by Graciela paper, are among the stars of Calderón, all of whom work in 6440). MIGUEL CALDERÓN, multimedia conceptual- him are two of his Fuentes, painter Ofill Eche- this gallery, which is also a good conceptualist modes. The gallery TRAEGER & PINTO Shows by ist, Kurimanzutto. paintings titled varría’s frozen-moment urban source for works by well-known has also worked with “Dr. an eclectic mix of local and DARÍO ESCOBAR, mixed-media sculptor, Samurai Tree. scenes, and Hugo Lugo’s paint- Mexican modernists (Horacio Lakra” (Jerónimo López foreign artists change frequently KBK Arte Contemporáneo. ings of men in suits confronting 1549, Polanco; 55/5280-2941). Ramírez), a tattoo artist who here. One of dealers Gerardo DANIEL LEZAMA, painter of postmodernist, giant extension cords or Rubik’s GALERÍA NINA MENOCAL embellishes pages from 1950s Traeger and Eduardo Pinto’s allegorical history paintings, OMR. Cubes (Arquímedes 175, (Zacatecas 93, Roma; 55/5564- girlie and wrestling magazines. recent discoveries, whose star JAVIER MARÍN, figurative sculptor, Polanco; 55/5254-8813). 7209), with its strong ties to Among his admirers: mega- is rising fast (he just had a first Terreno Baldío Arte. ARRÓNIZ ARTE CONTEMPO- Cuba, and OMR (Plaza Río de collector Charles Saatchi, who solo show in Spain): 20-some- GABRIEL OROZCO, multimedia conceptual- RÁNEO A new gallery specializ- Janeiro 54, Roma; 55/5511- has bought batches of the thing Fernando Moreno, who ist, Kurimanzutto. ing in contemporary prints 1179) are mainstays of concep- “doctor’s” works for his London is based in Mexico City and HÉCTOR VELÁZQUEZ, mixed-media sculptor, (Plaza Río de Janeiro 53, Roma; tualist work from Mexico and collection (55/5286-3059 or makes simple, dreamy pen- Terreno Baldío Arte. 55/5511-7965). overseas. kurimanzutto.com). and-ink drawings on paper ARMANDO ZESATTI, hyperrealist painter, EDS GALERÍA An outlet for GARASH GALERÍA Rock music, PROYECTOS MONCLAVA (Colima 179, Roma; 55/5525- Interart. comics, urban life, and con- (Colima 244, Roma; 55/5506- 4500). ISADORA HASTINGS/KURIMANZUTTO. HELÚ: KEITHDANNEMILLER/ALAMY. cheeky conceptualists like Carlos Slim Entrance to Terreno Alfredo Ginocchio; Galería El Estudio Galería Nina Garash Galería sign OMR Helú Baldío Arte artist Ofill Menocal Echevarría (right) 200 201 They’ve gotta Save the haveMexico City’s it most active collec- The Lebanese-Mexican business- “Tamayo:dates A Modern Icon tors tend to be tight-lipped man Carlos Slim Helú is also a Reinterpreted,” a career-span- about their holdings—but not prominent collector; many of his Market ning retrospective, opens at the Eugenio López Alonso, scion of acquisitions can be seen at the Rufino Tamayo Museum on the Jumex fruit juice company SOUMAYA MUSEUM. Located in values October 26 (and runs through and founder of the JUMEX the southern part of the city, the Works by emerging Mexican January 21, 2008). Since FOUNDATION/COLLECTION. museum is named after Slim’s artists and even those who are advance publicity for Based in Mexico City and Los late wife and houses an in- well-established in early phases many exhibitions can be limited, Angeles, López has amassed depth Auguste Rodin collection of their careers are affordable. look for the latest edition more than 1,000 works by inter- and European paintings from Prices range from less than of the bimonthly Arte al Día or national art stars and Latin- the 15th through the 18th cen- US$1,000 to around $2,500 for for the free “Mapa de Galerías” American contemporary artists. turies. Works on view by mod- many drawings, small paint- map/calendar (available in At this year’s MACO, his organi- ern masters include those of ings, or photographs, and hotels and galleries or at zation scooped up works by Picasso, Dalí, Siqueiros, and $4,000 and up for paintings by, arte-mexico.com). such Mexican artists as Laureana Rivera (Plaza Loreto, corner of for example, the wry surrealist MACO, only five years old, Toledo, a photographer, Minerva Avenida Revolución and Río Hugo Lugo.