Bandanna Republic NEW YORK — Go West, Young Man — Or Rather, Young Lady

The Inside: Pg. 11 AN ARTSY ‘DREAM TOWN’/8 FILA DEAL FINAL/3 Tip of th WWD Women’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • June 12, 2003 Vol. 185, No. 119 $2.00 e List Ca WWDTHURSDAY ps Sportswear Bandanna Republic NEW YORK — Go West, young man — or rather, young lady. When Horace Greeley first pronounced his famous words 150 years ago, it’s a safe bet he didn’t have evening dresses in mind. This season, however, Tom Ford is exploring the American West for Gucci, adding, he says, a “touch of Brooke Shields.” The result: those time-honored bandanna prints reworked into shirts, swimsuit coverups and the sexiest evening dresses imaginable. Here, the silk stunner, all tied up in knots. For more on Gucci Group resort, see pages 6 and 7.

Chasing New Labels: Jones Said Preparing To Snap Up Kasper

By Eric Wilson NEW YORK — After walking away from Lauren by Ralph Lauren, Jones Apparel Group appears to have its eye on buying Anne Klein. Sources said Jones’ interest in the Anne Klein franchise has heated up this week and the company might soon up the bidding in the pursuit of the label’s parent company, Kasper ASL, which has been exploring various strategic options as part of its plan to emerge from bankruptcy protection in the coming weeks. Kellwood Co. was believed to be See Jones, Page 5 PHOTO BY ROBERT PHOTO MITRA BY ROBERT 2 WWDTHURSDAY Sportswear GENERAL FASHION: Short skirts and colorful, boldly patterned looks spark the Yves ™ 6 Saint Laurent and Gucci collections for resort. THE BEAT: Checking out the scene in Northampton, Mass., called a “dream A weekly update on consumer attitudes and behavior based 8 town” by Outside Magazine, with family fun and strong arts programs. on ongoing research from Cotton Incorporated After giving up on Lauren by Ralph Lauren, Jones Apparel Group appears to 1 have its eye on buying Kasper ASL and its Anne Klein and Kasper brands. WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 12, 2003 WWD, THURSDAY, SHORT AND SWEET ACTIVE: Just as athletes change their workouts to maximize performance, The miniskirt: It’s baa-ack! 10 retailers are offering greater variety in their merchandise and marketing. DENIM DISH: François Girbaud plays peek-a-boo…Diesel’s Limited The customers at Sloan Boutique in Charlotte, Roi has become famous in fashionista circles for 9 Edition…Levi’s extends notes buyback…Novel Denim’s earnings dive. North Carolina, are of two camps: those who will, her “pouf” skirt, a skirt that is gathered, with a puffy, Classified Advertisements ...... 13-15 and those who won’t… try on the store’s latest crop turned-under hem. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is of miniskirts, that is. “I did two versions, one was a mini and the other [email protected], using the individual's name. one was a little longer, for evening wear,” she says. SUBSCRIPTION RATES “A lot of women come in and say they’ve U.S. and possessions, Retailer, daily one year, $99; Manufacturer, daily one year, $135. worn them when they were popular last time, “The mini sold and the evening version did not. I All others U.S., daily one year $195. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. Please allow 6-8 weeks for service to start. Individual subscription information/Single Copy Sales : (800) 289-0273; and they don’t want to wear them again,” relates think that’s an indication of where things are headed.” outside U.S. (818) 487-4526; new group subscription information 212-630-4196 Postmaster: Send address changes to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. Jill Sloan, co-owner, along with Roi’s summer and fall collec- WWD (ISSN #0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue every month except July, and two additional issues in April and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc. sister Courtney, of the hip tions also include mini suits with a a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc., 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001-8191. WWD is a registered trademark of Fairchild Publications Inc.© 2003 by Fairchild Publications Inc., shop. “But our younger cus- cropped, short-sleeved jacket and a a subsidiary of Advance Publications Inc. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, tomers are wearing miniskirts matching A-line miniskirt, a mini including photocopying or recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, except as may be expressly permitted in writing by the copyright owner. Editorial Reprints: (212) 221-9595 for the first time.” flounce skirt with a thick, three- Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and other offices. Mailed under Publications Mail Sales Agreement No. 517054. Canada Post Returns to: P.O.Box 1632, Windsor, ON N9A 7C9 The miniskirt was first pop- inch waistband, and evening minis GST # 88654-9096-RM 0001 Canada Publications Agreement # 40032712 Printed in the U.S.A. ularized in the mid-1960s, in taffeta and velvet. All signed articles published in the paper represent solely the individual opinion of the writer and not those of during the height of the sexual “In the past, the miniskirt was WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY. revolution, although there’s still a seen as novel, and almost risky,” For Web site access, log on and subscribe to www.WWD.com. controversy regarding whether it says Roi. “Now, it’s more of a state- “We have incorporated the was Mary Quant or Andre Cour- ment; it means you follow fashion miniskirt length into our reges who invented the short and you’re a trendsetter.” suitings, and are selling a lot In Brief skirt. It reappeared during the Wearing a miniskirt “isn’t as big of jackets with minis.” 1980s with a body-hugging ver- of a deal as it was in the past,” ANNE KLEIN MOVES: Eileen McMaster has been promoted to sion popularized by Madonna, — Rebecca Taylor affirms Connie Maynard, vice senior director of marketing at Anne Klein, from director of marketing. McMaster, who joined the firm in August 2000, will oversee who paired it with lace tights and Designer president of sales, girls and juniors media and marketing strategies for the Anne Klein, A-Line, Kasper, ankle boots. And in the 1990s, at Union Bay, where minis are cur- Albert Nipon and LeSuit brands. She reports to John Idol, chief ex- working-girl characters played by Heather Locklear rently the most popular skirt length. ecutive of Kasper/Anne Klein. She takes over some of the responsi- and Calista Flockhart on, respectively, Melrose Place “You’re seeing a lot more miniskirts out there, bilities formerly handled by Dee Salomon, ex-senior vice president and Ally McBeal, wore scandalously short skirts, both in the media and with people wearing them on of marketing and corporate communications at Anne Klein, who last month was named senior vice president and managing director with matching suit jackets, to the office. the streets,” says Maynard. At Union Bay, popular of Style.com, the online home of Vogue and W. In addition, Vera This time around, what’s old is new again as designs include cargo styling, utility details such as Yuan has been promoted to creative services director at Anne miniskirts have assimilated some of the current belts and zippers, stretch and rigid denim versions, Klein. Most recently, she was art director. Yuan will continue to be fashion trends. Designers are incorporating the wide waists, drawstrings, and corduroy fabrications. responsible for creative direction and initiatives including ad cam- paigns and brand support materials. She reports to McMaster. low-waisted trend made so popular with jeans “Texture is particularly important,” relates Maynard. and trousers into their mini designs, meaning But can they be worn to work? This might IDENTITY CRISIS: The Knightsbridge-based retailer Harrods is that although the new minis are a shorter determine whether or not young women jump on keen to dispel links between its London flagship and a department length—typically between 14 and 17 inches— the miniskirt’s latest revival. According to the Mon- store in Buenos Aires that will trade under the same name starting in September. The Argentine retailer, which first opened in 1914, they are still considered respectable because they itor, 52% of female consumers ages 16 to 24 say that shared directors with the London Harrods until 1945, but the British hang lower on the hips. their work and weekend wardrobes have pieces that retailer sold all interests in the South American store in 1968. Atilio Sloan reports that her boutique is stocking ver- overlap, while 58% in the 25- to 35-year-old age Gibertoni, head of CBC-Interconfinanz, an Italian-Swiss venture that sions that have cargo details and buckles. But the group affirm their wardrobes do double time. owns a 51 percent stake in the Argentine store, has received financial backing from Besknet, a group of Italian investors, to see the bestseller is a miniskirt from Michael Kors, which Designers say there’s a way to pull it off, particu- store open by September. “We sincerely hope that customers will not comes in white and turquoise cotton, with embroi- larly for women in creative fields. confuse the store in Buenos Aires, above whose door the word dered flowers. “It’s very Mexican-looking,” she says. “We have incorporated the miniskirt length ‘Harrods’ appears, with our department store in London’s Jeff Mahshie, creative director for Chaiken, says into our suitings, and are selling a lot of jackets with Knightsbridge,” a spokesperson for Harrods Ltd. (London) said. “There are absolutely no similarities or partnerships between the the miniskirt is the perfect follow- our miniskirts,“ says designer I buy clothing on impulse two.” In 1998, the London Harrods lost a legal battle to protect its up to the pencil skirt, which has Rebecca Taylor. “You can do a fem- name from being marketed by the Argentine retailer. reigned for the past few seasons. At Ages 16 to 24 34% inine, pretty little suit, perhaps with Ages 25 to 34 33% Chaiken, the designers are pushing Ages 35 to 55 24% a jacket that has a frilled peplum, or the envelope with novelty styles, is a little more structured. Women such as striped velvet, bleached cashmere and a who are not comfortable showing their legs can Corrections double-belted pleated denim skirt. wear some great hosiery or leggings.” Elizabeth Hurley wore a dress by Elie Saab to the closing cere- “That’s what makes it look new and appeal to Mahshie agrees. “In fashion, pretty much any- monies of the Cannes Film Festival. The designer credit was in- correct in a caption on page 8, June 2. us,” says Mahshie. “We didn’t do any really straight- thing goes if you work in a creative job,” he says. “In forward, basic looks. If our customer wants an item, the fall, you can wear a miniskirt with opaque stock- Bluefly Inc. had a net loss of $6.5 million on sales of $30.6 million it should be luxurious, novel and impulsive.” ings and tall boots. Keep it all in dark colors. If last year and a $1.7 million loss on sales of $10 million during the Impulse, indeed, is key for the miniskirt’s you’re going to wear a mini with a heel, then you fourth quarter. Its financial results were stated incorrectly in a biggest fan: young women with the confidence— should be covered up on top—wear it with a turtle- story beginning on page 17, May 19. and figures—to pull it off. According to the Cotton neck or a shirt and jacket.” Incorporated Lifestyle Monitor™, female consumers So no matter where it’s worn or with what, one WWDStock Market Index for June 11 ages 16 to 24 are more likely to buy clothing on thing’s for certain – this small skirt will continue to impulse than any other demographic. Of those sur- make a big fashion statement. Composite: 109.34 Broadline Stores: 110.60 Softline Stores: 104.17 veyed by the Monitor, 34% of 16- to 24-year-olds This story is one in a series of articles based on findings said they were most likely to buy clothing on from Cotton Incorporated’s Lifestyle Monitor™ impulse, while only 24% of women their mothers’ tracking research. Appearing Thursdays in these pages, 0.90 1.21 0.31 age, 35 to 55, would do so. each story will focus on a specific topic as it relates to the People were certainly buying on impulse at one American women’s wear consumer and her attitudes Vendors: 108.28 Textiles: 119.84 of designer Alice Roi’s recent sample sales. “I put out and behavior regarding clothing, Index base of 100 is all my old and new minis, and they went like hot- appearance, fashion, fiber selection and keyed to closing prices of Dec. 31, 2002. cakes,” recalls Roi with surprise. many other timely, relevant subjects. ® 0.42 -2.01 3 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 12, 2003 Ittierre’s accessories firm is Ittierre reported sales of Perna, who was bullish about Martin plans to combat “pric- In marketing, Saks Inc. is mak- saw “We an opportunity to Jones said Saks will continue the Saks divi- Fifth For Avenue Saks Fifth Avenue will open who noted there is a “huge potential” in this market segment. housed in a 32,000-square-foot plant outside Isernia, in the center-south of Italy, and employs 90 workers. Perna expects this company to produce about 500,000 pieces per year. $517.4 million last year and expects sales of $605 million in 2003. Last year, the U.S. accounted for 15 percent of sales. In 2002, the company produced more than 7.5 million outfits, distributed in more than 5,000 retailers globally. the future, said he “did not rule out” the addition of two new licenses by yearend, but declined to provide further details. “These will be international brands,” he said. “The brands in our stable don’t overlap and we feel we have strong credibility and service — assets which will allow us to further expand Ittierre.” fourth quarter with dedicated space and a centrally trained stores. staff in selected ing confusion” among consumers by expanding the “incredible value” program, which presents certain categories, especially and private label, as fairly priced not subject to markdowns. For certain categories and items that also are sold by competitors, Saks has initiated a “we will not be undersold” policy in advertis- ing and signage. ing a number of bold moves, such as a successful program Parisian’s Atlanta stores in that ran for three weeks in Federated Department May. Stores’ As consolidation of Rich’s and Macy’s brought about Atlanta Macy’s store closings, four Parisian offered customers who owned a Rich’s or Macy’s credit card a $50 Parisian gift certifi- cate just to open a credit account. get business from Macy’s customers who were disengaged,” said George Jones, ceo of the Saks Department Store Group, in a postmeeting interview. “We took extreme measures, but it paid off. That’s the kind of creative marketing we want to continue, along with events and gwp [gifts with purchase].” to extend existing brand partnerships, such as the Jane Seymour home launching in collection, department stores this summer, and to search for new partners. Jane Seymour home is presented in lifestyle settings with a wide range of product, from bedding to photo frames, and it will be the dominant brand in all of the department stores’ home areas. sion, Martin said that successful in-store leather goods and jewelry salon shops, now in the New York store, will roll out to other loca- tions. At designer SFA, business is improving, he said. Contemporary areas continue to be strong, while bridge remains soft. new stores in Richmond, Va., this fall, and Raleigh, N.C., in Sept. 2004. Martin R. Brad ore chain that offers and events for preteens. Ittierre’s accessories current- Perna said the company was “We want to be able to offer In women’s apparel, the pri- The department store group enhance the shopping expe- To “Personalization Shops” — Ferré lines Ferré and will bow for spring-summer 2004. ly account for sales of $35 million. Perna said he wants that business to generate $116.8 million in three years. Dollar figures are converted from the rates. euro at current exchange signing an agreement with leather goods expert Sergio Lin to help bring specialized know- how to the division. Accord- ingly, Lin will no longer be in- volved in the management of Sergiolin, a manufacturing company based in Bologna, now in the hands Sergiolin produces of accessories his for Missoni and family. was a licensee for Gieffeffe accessories. whole collections that will compete with designer-branded accessories but that will be priced in accordance with the younger ready-to-wear lines,” said Perna, The trend is most pronounced at Parisian, where the percent- age is 40 percent. vate brand, launched Relativity, in 1998, is now at $100 million in annual sales with strong margins, said Martin. Relativity and Laura introduced Ashley, last fall, will expand to other fami- lies of business by year’s end, including special sizes. is going after the tweens market, with the recent acquisition of Club Libby Lu, a Chicago-based specialty st parties Saks will open 11 mall-based freestanding shops, and will in- stall Club Libby Lu shops in selected stores, with 75 to 100 lo- cations planned over the next few years. Saks also is targeting kids with FAO Schwarz, Zany Brainy and Right Start in-store shops rolling out this year, all with child-friendly environments that include games and interactive experiences. rience for women, nail salons will open initially in six department stores over the next few months — three Parisians Proffitt’s/McRaes. Ambience and and three staff will be hip and European-inspired, and salons will offer con- pricing. sumer-friendly Saks’ attempt to customize product, especially accessories such as handbags, with monograms, photos and other touches personal — will open during the With With an Ittierre SpA is the lat- The fashion company’s parent, “Ittierre already produces Defining department stores’ Saks Inc. will try almost any- Despite its efforts, business the For Saks Department Ittierre Adds Accessories Division Accessories Adds Ittierre Zargani Luisa By MILAN — est company to target accessories. IT Holding, on an- Wednesday nounced the formation of a new division, Ittierre Accessories, to help expand its sales of handbags, shoes and small leather goods. Ittierre is owned by IT Holding, which Gianfranco Ferré, Romeo Gigli, also owns Malo, Gentry and Exté. Portofino accessories for its licensed brands, but we want them to be more than mere complements to the clothes,” said IT Holding chairman Tonino Perna on at a Wednesday small press con- ference in the company’s Milan headquarters. Ittierre produces under license the Jeans Versace Couture, D&G, Versus, Exté, Just Cavalli and GF Ferré lines. The latter replaces the former Gieffeffe and Studio by Saks Looks to Enhance Experience Enhance to Looks Saks Lee Georgia By BIRMINGHAM, Ala. — arsenal of merchandising and marketing ideas that itself devi- ates from the usual weapons, Saks Inc. is declaring war on department store sameness. biggest challenges as “sameness of product,” “pricing confusion” and “ineffective marketing,” among others, R. Brad Martin, chief executive officer, outlined strategies to rejuvenate business despite a difficult economy at the annual shareholders meeting at Saks Inc.’s corporate offices in Birmingham Wednesday. Martin said new initiatives should help the company meet its long-term goal of 5 to 7 percent revenue growth, and 3 to 5 percent comparable-store sales growth for the next few years. thing to get consumers excited about department store shopping, from nail spas to “personalization shops” to Club Libby Lu stores for “tweens.” While making shopping more experi- ential and less promotional, the retailer wants to wow consumers with more unique merchandise, from private labels and proprietary brands to unique vendors and environments. has been difficult for the company. While special items led it to a first-quarter profit of $14.4 million versus a year-ago loss, both its Saks Fifth Avenue and department store divisions had lower operating income as well as lower net and same-store sales during the period, as re- its comps slid 1.6 ported. In May, percent as department stores were off 0.2 percent and SFA was down 3.8 percent. Its fiscal 2002 sales totaled $5.91 billion. Store Group, which includes Parisian, Proffitt’s, McRae’s, Younkers and Carson Pirie Scott, Martin said differentiat- ing product from other department stores is Unique key. merchandise, including private label, has grown to 23 percent of sales from 17 percent in 2002, and is on track to grow to 30 to 35 percent by the end of 2003. — Rosemary Feitelberg Rosemary — Fila Fila recently signed a sponsor- In addition to building the Like some of its competitors, It hasn’t always been that “That was done with no in- Fila also signs a $12 million For the first quarter ended Net revenues for the period ship deal with the Federazione Italiana Sport Invernali, an Italian agency that represents 750 winter sport athletes. That al- liance should prove to be valuable at the 2006 Winter Olympics in Turin, Italy. Therefore, it is in Fila’s best interest to keep production of its skiwear in Italy, Epstein said. brand’s sales in winter sports, tennis, running, basketball, soccer and fitness, Fila will focus on motor sports through its licensing deals with well-known names like Ferrari. Giving Enyce, an urban sportswear label popular with city kids, “a greater global presence” is another initiative, Epstein said. Fila women’s apparel has become more style-driven in recent months. Management will continue to build on that by en- couraging designers to develop items with denim inserts, appliques, embroidery and other novelty twists, Epstein said. Sell-throughs have been strong for such items, he said. When way. Epstein joined the company in 1998, Fila USA reported a $148 million loss. Last year, the company had an operating profit of $500,000. vestments and we were paying off huge interest rates,” he said. check for National Basketball Association player Grant Hill each even year, though he has been plagued by injury. Earlier this Olympic year, skier Alberto Tomba joined the ranks of tennis players Kim Clijsters and Jennifer Capriati, home-run king Barry Bonds and Formula 1 champion Michael Schumacher as one of sponsored athletes. Fila’s March 31, Fila Holding reported a net loss of $7.4 million compared with a loss of $36.3 million in the year-ago period, based on currency conversions from the euro at the time. plunged 20.5 percent to $227.6 million. Fila said the discontinuation of some subsidiaries and the de- preciation of the dollar against the euro negatively subtracted about $20.3 million from the top line. most meaningful for us.” most meaningful French high fashion. In Paris for the fragrance Wednesday arrived to find a launch, Tyler Givenchy pants-and-top ensemble Although she’d sent waiting for her. her measurements to the house said the outfit fit just once, Tyler this is like a glove. “I said ‘Wow, couture!’” she mused. But Tyler revealed the French language is not quite such a perfect fit. She recently filmed a television commercial for the scent and confessed: “It took me a long time to say ‘Irresistible.’” Surely it took no longer than those elfin words she uttered in “Lord of the Rings” Ed and John The , the new Now that Sport

Christy Turlington designed the gown

in San Francisco over the

Reached Reached Wednesday in “There’s a lot to be said for a Uncertain about the number Unlike Nike, for example, more major retailers de- With There are also plans to refur- Overseas, Gene oversees Yoon “We believe customization is Jon Epstein, former chief ex- nuptials of NIGHTS IN WHITE SATIN: NIGHTS IN WHITE SATIN: weekend may have been low-key and private but, not surprisingly it background, given Turlington’s was a high-fashion affair: Burns Galliano especially for her. The white satin, especially for her. full-skirted gown — described as very fairy tale — boasted a long train and a veil fully embroidered with silver thread by Lesage. TONGUE-TIED: Liv Tyler face of Very Irresistible Givenchy, is Irresistible Givenchy, face of Very quickly developing a taste for Fashion Scoops

Set to Hit Ground Running Ground Hit to Set NEW YORK — ecutive officer of Fila USA, has been named president and ceo of SBI and oversees the Fila, Ciesse Piumini and brands. Enyce The deal was finalized night. Tuesday Epstein said he Biella, was Italy, pleased the company was no longer on the block for the first time in two years. company that is off the market, flushed with cash, debt free, has strong credit lines and has good brand recognition,” Epstein said. “We have tremendous flexibility to attract new employees and resources. People are anxious to do business with us again.” of pink slips to be handed out to some of the brand’s “several thousand employees” or when that might happen, Epstein said he and his management team will be evaluating the organization for any redundancy. which has one European distribu- has several in dif- Fila tion center, ferent countries on the Continent. Fila employs about 450 people in the U.S., with the bulk of them working at its Sparks, Md., offices. manding customization, has Fila set up “centers of excellence” to focus on specific regions. SBI the Americas is based at the Maryland facility and is headed up by O’Riordan, Tom Fila’s former chief operating officer. bish and expand New Fila’s York office. Robert Galvin has been named chief financial officer and president of European operations. The company’s European offices are in Biella, Italy. SBI Asia in Hong Kong as president and ceo. He was the founder and ceo of Fila Korea, which has 400 franchise stores there. an important part of retail and is getting bigger. All the stores want proprietary merchandise,” Epstein said. “We want to make product in places that will be Fila Purchase Complete, Complete, Purchase Fila Brands International has wrapped up its $351 million purchase of worldwide subsidiaries from Fila’s Fila Holding SpA, the newly formed holding company has set up its management team. 4

Aileen Mehle accepts the American Ballet Theatre Movado award for Woman of the Year from Caroline Day and Night Kennedy Schlossberg. New York’s crème de la crème made Lincoln Center looked like a regular disco inferno. their way Tuesday to the Metropolitan The New York City Ballet’s supporters stormed the Opera House for a luncheon in honor of dance floor for the Dance with the Dancers gala, eye® the American Ballet Theatre’s women sponsored by Valentino and hosted by Helen Schifter, of the year — Judy Peabody and WWD’s Tara Rockefeller, Muffy Flouret and Jeff Klein, who

WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 12, 2003 WWD, THURSDAY, own Aileen Mehle. Tables were set up arrived in a white stretch limo. The fete’s ragingly right on the opera house stage, decorated as Verona popular disco theme meant a sizzling performance for the company’s production of “Romeo and Juliet,” by Deborah Harry, glam Seventies fashion and studly and Carolina Herrera, the event’s chairwoman, bartenders clad only in their briefs. greeted the city’s most passionate ballet lovers while Most guests skipped dinner and hit the dance modeling luncheon sponsor Movado’s new ballet- floor never to sit down again. “I’m channeling my inspired watch. And they were all there — from HRH inner Bianca,” Schifter announced, dressed in a Infanta Elena of Spain to Caroline Kennedy sparkling Valentino top and crisp white pants. Schlossberg, C.Z. Guest to Pat Buckley, Sloan Barnett Though the crew didn’t truck in Studio 54’s Man in to Ré Vive’s Dr. Gregory Bays Brown and from Muffie the Moon for the event, the buff bartenders — doomen Potter Aston to Veronica Hearst. by day at Klein’s City Club hotel — set the tone. Schlossberg reminisced about her days as a copy “Welcome to Jeff Klein’s bar mitzvah,” cried kid working for the Daily News, delivering Mehle, Michael Kors, doused in Halston’s Z-14 and sporting who once worked there, reports from around the oversized sunglasses. An afro-wigged Cynthia Rowley globe. “She is a great patron of the arts as well as a demonstrated her jump splits. Dayssi Olarte de keen journalist,” said Schlossberg. “She has an Kanavos flipped her feathered hair. Charles Askegard insightful eye and unflappable sense of style.” channeled his inner pimp daddy in a polyester suit. While they were at it, the revelers, including He wasn’t the only one tricked out in polyester. ABT Juliets Paloma Herrera and Julie Kent, as well “If you dropped a match, this whole room would as all the Romeos, took the opportunity to celebrate ignite,” said Tory Burch. Mehle’s birthday with a giant pink cake and a Aston, who danced until her platform heel round of singing. broke, lacquered up her lips for the occasion. “How “I seldom go to lunch,” Mehle told the crowd. “As could anyone ever make out in the Seventies?” she my friend Pat Buckley asked, ‘Did you get up at marveled. midnight to come here?’” Bettina Zilkha had the answer: “They were all Of course, at midnight, only 12 hours earlier, looking for a little fallen powder.”

Jeff Klein with Rena Sindi in Valentino.

Pauline Pitt and Hilary Geary at the ABT Luncheon.

Blaine Trump Carolina Herrera Cornelia and C.Z. Guest and Pat Buckley Judy Peabody

Gigi Mortimer Jamie in vintage Nina Wolf in Halston Griscom in Valentino Tory Burch in Helen at the Valentino at at the Valentino with Schifter in NYCB the NYCB Elizabeth Lindemann NYCB Michael Kors. Valentino. party. party. at the NYCB party. party. ABT LUNCH BY ROBERT MITRA; NYCB GALA BY SHANA NOVAK SHANA BY GALA NYCB MITRA; ROBERT BY LUNCH ABT 5 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 12, 2003 Everyone may ” — Melissa Drier Melissa — —from contributions With In Canada, Betty Barclay is “Our origins [in the U.S.] are doesn’t necessarily have to doesn’t hold true for Betty Barclay. carried in department stores, but the jump from drugstores to department stores could be more difficult in America, he acknowledged. not selective. But Betty Barclay is not mass. It’s lower selective. This is the problem. be- We’re tween areas, and we know it. We occupy a price level on our own.” IN THE MARKET: want to buy Beiersdorf, but the German producer of Nivea also has its eye on acquisitions, main- ly in the U.S. At the firm’s annual meeting in Hamburg on Wed- nesday, chief executive Rolf Kunisch once again stressed that Beiersdorf is strong enough to grow on its own, “indeed clearly stronger than most competitors,” he added. “But we’re also interested in acquisitions, especially in the U.S.A., in order to give our current business there a wider base.” The American market is Beiersdorf ’s largest with Germany, sales of more after than $300 million. “But the U.S.A. is so large,” Kunisch noted, “that an even larger amount would be helpful.” Even though has Kellwood its share Stephen L. president Ruzow, of “When business is bad, it’s a very Anne Klein’s stint in bankruptcy Kristin Larson and Dan Burrows Dan and Larson Kristin then hired Peter J. Solomon Co. as a months ago, the Two financial adviser. committee suggested that a decision would take about 60 days, but the latest developments could extend its considerations. of projects on the table, the company remains strongly interested in Kasper, sources said, although company offi- the talks. cials declined to comment on Kellwood women’s wear, said the in- tense interest in moderate and better brands stems from a continuing trend of trading down in consumer spending habits on apparel. good time to look at new opportunities,” he said. “It’s important to focus on voids in the marketplace. Izod With [launching in the women’s moderate market for spring], we identified a niche where the department we’re targeting is 90 percent bottoms. We felt there was a need in that area for a very strong tops presentation, which is where we’ve focused this presentation. It’s a modern look but a misses’ fit, and we think the consumer is going to react very strongly to that product. feel We a lot of consumer dollars are going to come from non-moderate resources.” stems from the last sale of the brand in March 1999, when bought Kasper it for around $75 million after months of negotiations. But the debt incurred by the transaction — more than $110 million, according to the company — eventually forced a management shuffle that pushed out company founder and ceo Arthur S. Levine, when Idol was brought in as a turn- around specialist. — David Campbell, Davenport & Co. & Davenport Campbell, David — In the U.S., Maurer + Wirtz’s Last year, the company con- “We’ve done business [in the The second phase, he contin- Maurer + core Wirtz’s Tabac 30-year-old business revolves around two men’s fragrances: Tabac Original and Tabac Man, both sold in drugstores. solidated its North American distributor network, with both American and Canadian sales now being directed by its Mon- treal-based distributor. U.S.] on a low level for 30 years, and there’s a lot to do. But it has to be step by step,” Weiergräber said. The first moves: analyze the situation, adapt price points and expand distribution. ued, is to reconsider and extend the assortment, starting most likely with the Betty Barclay fragrances. Betty Barclay is a Ger- man moderately priced women’s fashion collection with international distribution, “but even where the fashion is not known, the fragrances have been successful,” he said. business in North America has drugstore distribution, which Kasper is a strong player in the suit However, talk However, of a possible Jones acquiring “Jones Kasper is very re- John Idol, ceo of Kasper for nearly the However, management offer business and Jones is strong in casual apparel, so it would be a good fit. “ $150 million. Even if other interested parties, like Kellwood, countered with a bidding war, Jones has the cash — and a history of big spending on acquisitions like Nine West — to emerge as the Boneparth winner. had no comment on Wednesday. bid for Kasper was fueled Wednesday when Jones reported it has obtained a $700 million three-year revolving bank credit facility that extends to June 10, 2006. Combined with the company’s extant $700 million revolving credit facility, which lasts until June 15, 2004, Jones now has $1.4 billion of committed bank credit, the company said in a statement. Jones said the credit line will primarily be used for working cap- ital, letters of credit and other general corporate purposes. alistic,” said David Campbell, an analyst with Davenport & Co. “Kasper is a strong player in the suit business and Jones is strong in casual apparel, so it would be a good fit.” two years, also declined to comment on a possible Jones bid. The original bankruptcy filing called for Kasper to emerge with the issuance of new stock as the Anne Klein Group, but the out- look for its exit changed last Decem- ber when Idol and a team of Kasper management made an offer to buy the group for about $88 million, which they subsequently raised to around $100 million, representing about a quarter of Kasper’s overall annual sales. The Anne Klein collections alone are estimated to generate $100 million in sales and an additional $300 million through licenses. was not enough to impress a special committee of Kasper’s creditors, who “This [bridge] segment is im- preferences there “Fragrance BEAUTY BEAT bridge between mass and pres- tige, serving as the top of the line in drugstores and the opening price point in perfumeries. A 50-ml. eau de toilette bottle of Tabac Man, for example, retails in Germany for about $16; a similar sized bottle of Betty Barclay runs about $32, and S. Oliver for men or women, $21. portant in Germany and even in Europe. And there are [South American] markets bridge does exist. where But where it doesn’t, we then have to decide whether we’re upper-end mass or lower-end selective —or pres- tige,” Weiergräber acknowledged. The company’s prefer- ence, he added, is lower-end selective, say “but we for can’t sure where we’ll fit in. We’re in the process of finding that out.” are very similar to South Ameri- ca,” he pointed out. Jones’ decision this month to sue So many trophy brands are looking another Yet brand with momen- The financial crisis that forced its Since its committee of creditors will for deals right now — a Kasper sale, a CK license, reports of talks between Oscar de la Renta and J.C. Penney, plus interest in better collections for Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors — that the usual suspects for such transac- tions have their hands full sorting out the most lucrative moves. Kellwood, Jones, Liz Claiborne Inc. and the rela- tively new dealers, Lawrence Stroll and Silas Chou, have cropped up with interest in nearly every case as the designer industry makes a big play for perceived opportunities in the better and moderate markets. Polo Ralph Lauren, which then coun- tersued, has suddenly opened up about $548 million worth of business that virtually every player is after, including Jones with its own lifestyle brand, the Lauren by Ralph Lauren line being developed in-house by Polo and the upcoming incarnation of CK. tum in the better market is AK Anne Klein, the lower-priced counterpart to the bridge line, Anne Klein, and which already has a significant presence in department stores. into a prepackaged parent firm, Kasper, bankruptcy in February 2002 has turned into what some buyers consider a golden opportunity now that its finan- cials have turned around. In its most recent quarterly report in Kasper May, posted a first-quarter profit of $8 million on sales of $104.9 million, including $4.4 million in licensing revenues. likely consider the highest bid for the company in the end, sources said Jones chief executive officer Peter Boneparth is planning to up the ante with an offer in the neighborhood of Continued from page one the leading contender for but Kasper, with its launch of an Izod women’s collection this week through a license with Heusen and Phillips-Van what could be a another deal to license Calvin Klein’s CK women’s collection from PVH any a concurrent deal day, for Kasper might reach. be out of Kellwood’s Jones Said Eyeing Kasper Eyeing Said Jones With this goal in With sight, Maurer Plans for the key market of Also unclear is exactly where The Maurer + Wirtz fra- — Kristi Ellis Kristi — + Wirtz exhibited for the first time at this spring’s duty-free trade fair in Orlando, Fla. Al- though said Weiergräber the fair suffered from reduced traffic, he added, “The big distributors from Central and South America attended, and I believe in the second half of the year, we’ll be able to generate business in Columbia, Panama, Costa Rica, Guatemala and Ecuador.” Brazil, are however, less con- crete. “We’re in talks with various potential partners (in Brazil), and are considering whether the right strategy calls for local production, for example. But that is something that must be looked into on-site,” he said. Maurer + will Wirtz be posi- tioned in the Americas. The company’s strength in Germany lies in its very in-betweenness. grance brands function as a South America, with an eye toward expanding its small North American business as well. A unified textile industry chal-

Maurer + one Wirtz,

The over 150-year-old firm, In 2002, exports accounted The goal is to grow exports to The leaders of six textile and fiber trade and “We met in one room to speak with one unani- In 12 months, apparel and textile imports from The associations are working on petitions seeking “There is an incredibly grave crisis affecting the The coalition of textile groups, including ATMI, These textile groups, often divided in the past, BERLIN — of the leading players in Ger- many’s so-called “bridge” fragrance now sector, wants to build a bridge to the Americas. based in Stolberg, is Germany, best known for its Tabac, Non- chalance and Betty Barclay fragrance ranges. These are primarily sold at drugstore chains, department stores and perfumeries in its main market of Germany, but Maurer + Wirtz is also in 135 countries worldwide. The full brand portfolio includes S. Oliver, Carlo Colucci, Beach, Venice Cybersp@ace and Blind Date. for 26 percent of total sales of $102.8 million, up from 23 percent the year before. All dollar figures are calculated from the rates. euro at current exchange 40 percent of sales over the next five to six years, according to international sales director Gott- fried And Weiergräber. with Europe dominating Maurer + export business, Wirtz’s the focus is now shifting to Central and Maurer+WirtzWest the to Looking

For China Safeguard China For WASHINGTON — lenged the Bush administration Wednesday to act aggressively on invoking a special textile and apparel safeguard action against China, claiming it is a “litmus test” of the administration’s commitments to the industry. lobby groups held a Tuesday summit in Washington to solidify strate- a unified lobbying and Wednesday gy on issues critical to the survival industry. of their mous voice on the most tenacious problem in front of us: China,” said Allen Gant, chief executive officer of Glen Raven Mills and second vice chairman of the American Textile Manufacturers Institute. “China’s incredible growth of imports to the U.S. has dis- placed tens of thousands of jobs in the U.S. and apparel industries.” textile China have soared 140 percent, while textile em- ployment fell dramatically by 40,000 and 50 textile mills closed, according to the textile coalition. The Bush administration has vowed to minimize the impact of future trade deals on the textile industry. to reimpose several quotas that were lifted on imports of apparel and textiles from China as part a 10- year phaseout set to expire on Dec. 31, 2004. terms Under of China’s Trade World Organization member- ship agreement, countries can impose category-specific limits for up to one year if Chinese imports are causing market disruption. Quotas can be reapplied on each category for another two years with govern- ment approval. U.S. textile industry, but that’s not unique,” said Roger Milliken, ceo of Milliken & Co. “The entire U.S. manufacturing sector is in dire straits due to misguid- ed trade policies.” the American Fiber Manufacturers Association, the American Spinners Yarn Association, the National Cotton Council, the National Textile Association and the American Manufacturing Trade Action Coalition, has not yet budgeted money for the cam- paign, and members did not disclose how much they will need to fund it. have found common ground on another issue, as well. They plan to coordinate a lobbying effort against the inclusion of the use of fabric and yarns from countrythird- parties in the ongoing Central America Free Agreement negotiations. Trade Textile Industry Asks Industry Textile 6

WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 12, 2003 WWD, THURSDAY, Gucci Jump

NEW YORK — Pinault-Printemps- Redoute, the majority stakeholder in Gucci, has denied reports that it’s looking for new leadership at the Italian design house. But there’s no Yves denying that Tom Ford is at the top of Saint his game. After showing stellar fall Laurent collections for both Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, he’s carrying the bravado into resort. He designed Gucci with a Western swagger, keeping it boyish by day and — surprise, surprise — sexy by night. At Saint Laurent, resort features “color, color, color,” Ford said. “There are shades of the 1940s, but” — quickly qualify- ing his retro reference — “there’s a bit of the Pointer Sisters, too.”

Gucci

OS BY ROBERT MITRA AND STEPHANE FEUGERE STEPHANE AND MITRA ROBERT BY OS T O H P

7 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 12, 2003 t n e t r s n i u e a a v Y S L t n e t r s n i u e a a v Y S L 8 The Beat: Junior/Contemporary Keeping Cool in ‘Dream Town’

By Katherine Bowers

NORTHAMPTON, Mass. — Retailer Peter Vogel is

WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 12, 2003 WWD, THURSDAY, gleefully shooting his customers. He aims the AirZooka’s huge plastic barrel and expels a puff of air gusty enough to ruffle an unsuspecting customer’s hair at 50 paces. “Look, she doesn’t know what hit her,” said Vogel, owner of Faces department store here. The AirZooka toy is one of those things that tickles Vogel, as do the edible tattoos, the Mr. Potato Head string lights and the ability to stock a whole department with trendy duds priced for less than $50. All things colorful and kitschy make up the Willy Wonka-like world of Faces, the Vogel family’s department store here that’s teen bliss and pretty cool for older folks, too. Faces shines in this western Massachusetts town of 35,000, which is as famous for its aging hippies as for its plucky independent stores, restaurants and lively music scene. A small Starbucks is the only national chain store in the downtown area, but Smith College students usual- ly name the local contender, the Haymarket Café, as the best java hangout. Northampton has been called a “dream town” by Outside Magazine and has been listed as a best arts town and a best place to raise a family by national media. But what’s often overlooked about the town is that, despite a lack of mass marketers, it hasn’t priced out its youth. Local proprietors like Vogel and concert promot- er Jordi Herold have worked hard to offer affordable products and entertainment. It makes sense to cater to the under-21 crowd, since Northampton is home to Smith College and is a stone’s throw from four other colleges, including the University of Massachusetts’ main campus. Some 30,000 students throng into the Pioneer Valley, which includes Northampton and surrounding towns, each September and depart each May. While they’re around, Northampton delivers the goods. In January 2002, for instance, teens could hear Norah Jones playing at Pearl Street Nightclub for “barely her gas money,” recalled Herold, founder and creative director of Iron Horse Entertainment Group, which runs Pearl Street and two other venues in town. “She sold out 1,300 seats for us six months later. Now we can’t even touch her,” Herold said, noting how fast things move and how much credibility a club can gain by keeping its ears open. It only took hearing 60 seconds of rap trio Northern State’s demo before Herold was dialing to see when he could book them. Their self-released album, featuring only seven songs, is reviewed in a recent Rolling Stone, but they’ve already played Pearl Street and are due to return again in late June. When prodded, he describes them as “female Beastie Boys two decades later.” “I hate that shorthand,” he adds. “But it gets the mes- sage across.” Not only are the acts authentic, the atmosphere is, too. All of Herold’s clubs admit all ages, although alcohol is served only to those with bracelets who have been proofed. That means teens can hear blues legend Taj Mahal under the pressed-tin ceiling in the Iron Horse’s MCKINNON ED BY PHOTOS beer-scented gloom. Clockwise from top left: Giulia Mastrangelo at Synergy with Diesel shoes; Pearl Street Nightclub; Faces owner Peter Vogel and “It requires cooperation on the audience’s part and buyer Lora Fischer; Customer in Faces’ beach section; summer toys. vigilance on our part, but we have a good track record,” he said of the alcohol policy. Tester” and an Art-o-Mat, an overhauled cigarette know how we can massage it and make it right for us.” Tickets are generally affordable, too. Those for acts at machine that now vends a range of small handicrafts A few doors down, footwear and accessories boutique Pearl Street, a Twenties brick bunker built as a Polish and gives the proceeds to arts charities. Synergy picks up where Faces leaves off, plying locals social hall, rarely exceed $20. The 170 seats at the Iron The 2,000-square-foot apparel department is the with sunglasses and footwear. Horse go for slightly more, up to $35. store’s most productive, Vogel said. Most tops retail for In the blue neon-lit store, focus is on key shapes — There’s rarely a quiet night at Herold’s clubs and $10 to $25, although the store carries some higher-priced flip-flops, strappy sandals, platform slides — and the there’s never a quiet corner at Faces. The store pops and Paul Frank garb. Bottoms are less than $50. Julius mon- store offers these styles across a range of brands. Most zings with activity, cramming 14 departments into 10,000 key aside, there are no major national brands in sight. In shoes sell for $60 or less, but some, like Camper and square feet, stocking everything from $500 chaise addition to Paul Frank, Faces stocks T-shirts from Doe, Diesel, ring in slightly higher. lounges to $5 hot sauces. Beaver Power and Cosmic, the latter featuring goth sto- Like footwear, fashion is addressed in shorthand: It’s reminiscent of Urban Outfitters, but brighter and rybook character Emily Strange. Trendy tops from tanks, shorts, pull-on athletic bottoms and skirts in with a more mod sensibility. Both companies started in Angels pair with denim from Los Angeles-based Z. denim or rayon compose the edited assortment. the early Seventies, but Faces, founded by Vogel’s father, Cavaricci and Bongo. Unionbay and Energie are key resources. Steve, has remained a single location. Sales average $350 per square foot. Business this year In the spring months, staffers encourage shoppers to The team works hard to ensure Faces is never stag- is slightly off from last year, Vogel said. bring in their prom or graduation dress to be tried on with nant. Every two weeks, windows are changed and mer- A Polaroid camera is always at hand for customers to shoes or perhaps a matching pair of rose-tinted sunglasses. chandise at the store’s entry rotates. There are few sales be snapped modeling an item. The dozen or so hat styles “That’s fun,” said manager Giulia Mastrangelo, a events (Vogel can only think of the June dress sale), but lining one wall are a favorite item for teens to mug in. Smith student. “My favorite time of year.” the store fusses over every holiday, filling the storefront Snapshots wallpaper the front entry and years’ worth of The town’s shopping drag, Main Street, also houses with wigs at Halloween and chocolate body frosting at shots spill from boxes in back, Vogel said. Cathy Cross, a contemporary boutique selling Diane Von Valentine’s Day. “We’d love to say this is innate,” he reflected. “That Furstenberg, Plenty and Vivienne Tam. There’s also The whole store is repainted every six months. we can sit in a windowless office and just dream this up, Thorne’s Marketplace, a towering department store ren- Currently, it’s a pool blue and lime green reminiscent of but of course we can’t. We brainstorm a lot, travel, think ovated during the Seventies into an arcade of smaller Fifties appliances, but apparel buyer Lora Fischer is about what we read and see.” stores. Most of Thornes’ tenants cater to baby boomers, already dreaming of the fall color scheme. Some of his best ideas have come from restaurants. however, the building is home to 25 Central, a youth- To make sure customers can even buy something fun “Most things I can relate somehow to the business,” he friendly spot offering such mall staples as Roxy, Free with only a quarter, there is a carnival game called “Love said. “Sometimes something flashes at me and I just People and Hot Kiss. 9 WWD, THURSDAY,WWD, 2003 12, JUNE The company’s aim is for the new core styles to grow to represent about Levi’s Extends Buyback Denim Dish half the company’s women’s business, said Levi Strauss & Co. has extended the exchange Finkelstein. She noted offer on some of its outstanding notes by one week to that adding the core line June 16, the firm said Tuesday. Previously, the offer to Marithé & François is valuable “so we don’t exchange $575 million publicly registered 12.25 per- Girbaud is launching burn through great fash- cent notes due 2012 for a like amount of outstanding the Peek-a-boo style ion styles.” unregistered notes was to expire June 9. The San of jeans as its core Girbaud said the Francisco-based company has completed a series of offering, for fall. move toward more sale- financial exchanges this year in an effort to allow its able clothes is part of his outstanding bonds to trade hands more freely. effort to turn his U.S. The privately held company remains largely in the operation into a more hands of descendants of Levi Strauss, but reports its lucrative business. financial results to the Securities & Exchange “I feel like the stupide Commission because of its bond issues. of the village,” he said. —S.M. “People tell me, ‘You have such good ideas “The market is being driven by and I make a lot of five-pocket jeans and we money off your ideas.’” recognize the need to have that,” Finkelstein said she said Sandra Finkelstein, of Diesel’s Limited Addition believes Girbaud’s de- Girbaud licensee I.C. Isaacs & Co. signs should be well Minimizing channel conflict is always a challenge for received by American consumers, given the right pitch. an apparel vendor that is also a retailer. Italian “It’s positioning and marketing,” she said. denim powerhouse Diesel wants to keep its specialty Girbaud also lamented that the company’s new store accounts bustling, so has begun selling its exclusive on Wooster Street in Manhattan’s SoHo district, which Limited Edition line to three status boutiques: features a 20-foot-high wall of plants, hasn’t lived up to Villains Vault in San Francisco, Ron Herman/Fred his initial sales hopes since opening last month. He Segal in Los Angeles and Jones in London. Extensive said early summer markdowns by other retailers were hand-scratching, stone washing and oxidizing gives to blame. the premium product — those Diesel artisans pro- “Now, everybody’s on sale,” he said. “It’s too early.” duce only 1,000 numbered pieces a month — vintage — Scott Malone effects, even aged smells. The year-old line of jeans was introduced in Diesel’s Denim Galleries in New York, Tokyo and Osaka, and will hit the boutiques later this month. Retail prices start at $200. Back to Basics “I had approached them in the last year about what they could do for their specialty accounts since they DKNY Jeans is determined to get consumers into have two freestanding stores in San Francisco and we its jeans. need to be unique from them,” said Randy Brewer, gen- As the brand has built up its assortment of trendy eral manager for Villains Vault. “This is a great product tops, skirts and knits to go with its jeans, company to have since those stores won’t carry it. When you get officials grew concerned that the brand’s identity as a something of this quality, people will spend more.” denim resource wasn’t strong enough. For fall, the — Nola Sarkisian-Miller company has gone to the root of the brand and is introducing a new basic style, the Ludlow. Peek-a-boo with François “We want people to think of DKNY Jeans for the jeans,” said a spokeswoman. “While they can still get As part of his continuing effort to revamp his U.S. a great peasant top, miniskirt or denim jacket, it’s business since acquiring a dominant stake in licensee the jeans we want them to think of us for season I.C. Isaacs & Co., François Girbaud is taking a step few after season.” observers might expect from the designer known for his The Ludlow, which was developed after more than quirky ideas: He’s launching a line of basic jeans. a year of research, is a straight-leg style that sits high- Company officials aren’t entirely comfortable with the er on the butt, for a more flattering look, with a con- label. toured low-rise waist. Available in an array of washes, “‘Basic’ isn’t a word I’d connect with us, but core and the Ludlow is the new basic for DKNY Jeans and key items are important to every business,” said Sandra wholesales for $35. Finkelstein, senior vice president of design and mer- The spokeswoman said the company would not cut chandising at I.C. Isaacs & Co., which produces the back on its offering of other products, but would Marithé & François Girbaud jeans label in the U.S. emphasize the basic style. Girbaud himself was willing to use the word in an inter- “We worked so long on the fit of the jeans,” she view at the company’s Manhattan offices last week, but said. “We have so many styles in DKNY Jeans but not even he had to offer a qualifier. He described the look as one of them was the basic that fits everyone.” “basic with our vision. We don’t want to compete with — Julee Greenberg Rustler or some kind of Wal-Mart stuff.” For fall, the company is launching a style of five-pocket women’s jeans intended to go head-to-head with other brands in the contemporary market. The slim-fitting, straight-legged style, called Peek-a-boo, wholesales for about $58 and has a few unusual features, including cuffs that are about an inch lower in the rear than in the front and vertical rear pockets sitting over seams where offset pockets would have been. “The market is being driven by five-pocket jeans and The Limited Edition Diesel jeans introduced in the Diesel we recognize the need to have that,” said Finkelstein, Design Gallery are being rolled out to a select group of who joined the company in March after a stint at specialty stores. Warnaco Inc.’s Calvin Klein Jeans unit. Earlier in her career, she worked with Girbaud when his name was licensed to VF Corp. and the designer said he’d followed her career since then. After naming his us to realign our manufacturing and operating costs to longtime business adviser, Steffan Ahrenberg, chairman those of our competitors, primarily in Asia.” in February, Girbaud noted Finkelstein’s was the first Novel Nosedive Notwithstanding the SARS effect, Novel’s opera- name that came to mind when the company looked for a Plunging sales and one-time charges conspired to tions in China did perform in line with expectations, head of merchandise. deepen Novel Denim Holdings Inc.’s loss in the fourth the company said, and contributed approximately $3 “She knew about this market; that is something peo- quarter. million in operating income. ple were missing here,” he said. “If we are going to be For the three months ended March 31, the Hong By segment, denim represented about 58.8 percent of trendsetters, I need someone to translate.” Kong-based manufacturer reported a net loss of $13.4 all garment sales, with chinos contributing 41.2 percent. Since taking a 42.2 percent stake in the company last million, or $1.63 a diluted share. By comparison, last Geographically, U.S. customers carried the bulk of year through investment vehicles, Girbaud has com- year the company posted a smaller loss of $9.4 million, Novel’s business at 61 percent of total garment sales, but plained loudly about the low sales of his brand in the or $1.01. Novel said fourth-quarter results were deplet- that was down from approximately 71 percent a year ago. U.S. Those complaints led to the exit of former Isaacs ed by a nonrecurring pretax charge of $9.3 million for For the full fiscal year, Novel swung to a loss of $26.2 chairman Robert Arnot, who resigned to make room for asset impairment, inventory write-downs, the closure million, or $2.96 a share, versus last year’s earnings of Ahrenberg. of a garment factory in Mauritius and currency $2.1 million, or 22 cents. A change in accounting prin- I.C. Isaacs reported a net loss last year of $5 million exchange losses. Sales for the period fell 23.8 percent ciple cut $308,000, or 3 cents, from the bottom line. on sales of $65.8 million, and sales slid another 18.3 per- to $28.6 million from $37.5 million a year ago. Sales for the year declined 8.6 percent to $145 million cent in the first quarter of this year. Sales of baggy men’s “Our historical competitive advantages such as a from $158.6 million in the prior year. styles in recent years have typically outpaced the low-cost production base and favorable trade relation- In guidance, Novel said it expects full-year earn- women’s business, a trend that Girbaud blamed on a lim- ships with the EU and the U.S. for our Mauritius and ings to break even on sales growth of approximately 3 ited range of styles. South Africa operations are diminishing,” said chief to 6 percent. “I hear we don’t have any core business? This is the executive officer K.C. Chao in a statement, “requiring — Dan Burrows most ridiculous stuff I’ve ever heard,” he said. 10 Active Lifestyle Summer’s Apparel Action Heroes NEW YORK — Just as athletes change their work- Earlier this year, Liz Caldwell and Barry Siff, outs to maximize performance, retailers are fol- members of the Team REI Salamon Adventure lowing that lead with greater variety in what they Racing team, held clinics at 10 REI stores. The com- sell and how they do it. pany plans to open five stores by the end of the year. Instead of relying on basics, which have driven Units are planned for Fairfax, Va., and Houston, in

WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 12, 2003 WWD, THURSDAY, sales for several seasons, major retailers are see- August; in San Francisco and Durham, N.C., in ing interest in fashionable items such as tanks, October, and in Hingham, Mass., in November. capri pants and retro styles Tanks, capri pants and syn- for summer. They understand thetic-blended items in the $10 that stylishness is as much a to $40 price range are driving selling point as performance- sales at Gart Sports, a 185-store oriented fabrics. Yogawear, chain, just as they did last year which fits that bill, continues at this time, said Keith to be a driving force. Reichelderfer, divisional mer- With more women heading chandise manager and vice to the outdoors for trail run- president of seasonal apparel. ning, climbing and other fitness What’s different this spring activities, REI has spruced up is that shoppers are looking its product mix, posters and in- for fashionable touches on store displays to address that these items, such as capris trend. REI’s private label, with cargo pockets or draw- Sugoi, and Prana are the top- string waistbands. Columbia selling lines for those activities, Sportswear and The North a company spokeswoman said. Face are key brands for Gart. To encourage participation This year, the chain in- in outdoor pursuits, REI offers creased its women’s apparel or- NNikeike ttanksanks are store-sponsored clinics and ders by 5 percent and current popular at The lectures about such topics as sales are outpacing that gain, Athlete’s Foot. “How to Start an Outdoor Reichelderfer said. In the past Crosstraining Program,” 18 months, women’s apparel “Backpacking 101” and “Using sales have jumped from 20 per- a GPS.” Most are held in the cent to 45 percent of Gart’s chain’s 66 stores, which span total apparel sales, he added. REI plugs the outdoor fitness trend. from Alaska to Atlanta. Female Last year, Gart, which in- shoppers comprise nearly 50 percent of the retail- cludes Sportmart and Oshman’s, posted $1.05 bil- er’s $735 million sales. lion in sales. “We’re all about helping people get outdoors,” the “We’re finding that the garments that sell best REI spokeswoman said. “The women’s category has are multipurpose. They are ‘street casual,’ but you been emerging and taking off, so we’re offering more could hike in them or even go in the river in women’s-specific clinics and women’s products.” them,” Reichelderfer said. “Consumers want to

Now Available Online

Prana is a best-selling label at some of REI’s 66 stores.

get more for their money.” Shoppers are less price conscious at Henri Bendel in Manhattan, where Nuala’s $188 cotton jackets, $138 striped chinos and $388 Marc Jacobs yoga bags are bestsellers, said merchandising manager Allyson Krowitz. Embroidered yoga pieces, including Chibi’s $238 cotton pants and Maharishi’s $398 pants, are also popular. She said, “Yoga is such a big thing in fitness. All the stars are doing it and they’re wearing these clothes.” Bendel’s also is seeing sales climb for $30 Adidas logo T-shirts and Puma’s fitted T-shirts and $48 short gym shorts with piping. Earlier this year, the retailer sold out of $78 Adidas fitted jackets and $68 track pants, but both styles will be offered this fall. “The whole retro-Seventies thing is big,” Krowitz said. The Athlete’s Foot, a $500 million operation, has seen an uptick in women’s apparel sales, after playing up fashionable styles instead of technical ones, according to Lori Bradberry, apparel planner. Improved merchandising with an emphasis on hookups — coor- dinated apparel and footwear outfits — and the growing interest in yoga also have had a tremendous impact, she said. With retail prices ranging from $24 to $38, Nike’s $30 Dri-Fit short-sleeve tops, yoga tanks, two-in-one shorts and white terry cloth tanks, shorts and capri pants are winning fans for their versatility. A $13 Avia cotton ribbed tank, $13 shorts and $37 palazzo pants are also in demand. “This apparel really complements today’s fashion-conscious, busy female,” Bradberry said. “The Nike apparel we are selling is very fashionable. It looks and feels great so women are comfortable spending more for the products. On the other hand, Avia separates are also selling well because they provide a nice, clean look and are value priced.” There has been a shift internally at Athlete’s Foot in how it buys and merchandises apparel. Market trends have been leaning more toward fashion and have moved away from technical, and buyers have followed suit, Bradberry said. Log on now to subscribe The chain also is tailoring its mix for respective markets. Athlete’s Foot plans to open at least 100 franchised stores worldwide this year. Each franchise owner determines product selection based on the needs in their community. Galyan’s Trading Co. has been selling items, but “there haven’t been any big standouts” at its 37 stores, said Chris Campbell, vice president and general merchandise manager. Last year sales exceeded $597 million. “Prints are good, but it’s not brand specific or price specific,” .com Campbell said. “The way the weather is, anything heavier weight is WWD selling, like fleece or French terry.” — Rosemary Feitelberg 11 TheWWDList THURSDAY,WWD, 2003 12, JUNE A company’s market capitalization is the total dollar value of all outstanding shares. It’s calculated by multiplying the number of shares times the current market price. Here are market cap winners and losers Value Judgments for the six months ended May 31. Companies have a market cap minimum of $50 million. Dollar figures are in millions. WINNERS LOSERS ELDER-BEERMAN TOO INC. May 2003: $59.7; November 2002: $19.9; Change: 200% May 2003: $539.8; November 2002: $999.7; Change: -46% EB Acquisition Ltd. recently made a cash offer of $5.50 a Too Inc. is forsaking teens and its two-and-a-half-year-old share for Elder-Beerman, but the retailer said it is Mishmash chain to devote more real estate to its core tween negotiating exclusively with another as-yet-unidentified single customer with a new as-yet-undisclosed concept. The retailer 1 party. The firm sought Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in 1 had a disappointing fourth quarter with same-store sales 1995, emerging as a publicly traded company in 1998. falling 12 percent.

OXFORD INDUSTRIES INC. MOSSIMO INC. May 2003: $310; November 2002: $194.7; Change: 59.2% May 2003: $59.6; November 2002: $108.2; Change: -44.9% Oxford, which manufactures Lands’ End and other labels, Mossimo has been successful at Target since its debut there bought Tommy Bahama owner Viewpoint International for in 2001 when it did upward of $700 million in sales. The $325 million in April. Women’s wear, which accounts for 41.9 Target performance was strong enough to propel Mossimo 2 percent of Oxford’s total sales, posted a 57.1 percent jump in 2 stock back to trading on the Nasdaq. Is it any wonder that sales to $87.5 million, for the three months ended Feb. 28. Target extended its license agreement until Jan. 31, 2006?

COACH INC. ALLOY INC. May 2003: $4,736; November 2002: $3,019; Change: 56.9% May 2003: $285.5; November 2002: $466.4; Change: -38.8% Coach, which has been successful at creating a luxury aura Alloy uses direct-mail catalogs, print media, Web sites, on- without charging luxury price points, saw its profits soar campus marketing programs and promotional events to 169.6 percent to $31.9 million, or 34 cents a diluted share, feature brands geared to Generation Y. The company plans 3 for the third quarter. Year-ago earnings were $11.8 million, 3 to expand its presence on college campuses and announced a or 13 cents. shareholder rights repurchase plan in April.

GOODY’S FAMILY CLOTHING MOTHERS WORK May 2003: $220.5; November 2002: $142.3; Change: 55% May 2003: $123.1; November 2002: $191.7; Change: -35.8% Goody’s Family Clothing Inc. in June bought the Duck Head Mother’s Work, the world’s largest designer and retailer of men’s label for selling and licensing, predicting it could grow maternity apparel and owner of Motherhood Maternity, A into a $35 million to $40 million business within three years. Pea In The Pod and Mimi Maternity, said this month it will 4 Women’s and kids’ will be added. In May, Goody’s same-store 4 move into licensing to expand its brands. The company has sales advanced 3.5 percent. 816 stores nationwide, plus 151 leased departments.

AEROPOSTALE INC. J. JILL GROUP May 2003: $759.2; November 2002: $508.5; Change: 49.3% May 2003: $298.7; November 2002: $453.3 Change: -34.1% Teen spending may be down, but Aeropostale seems to be J. Jill, the Quincy, Mass.-based multichannel retailer, wants getting its fair share of teens’ discretionary dollars. The chain to become a national lifestyle brand. But first it must improve posted a whopping 256.8 percent jump in earnings to $2.1 its performance. Earnings dropped 71.5 percent in the first 5 million, or 5 cents a diluted share, in the first quarter and 5 quarter, although sales advanced 12.3 percent. This, after plans to open 85 new stores over the course of the year. profits slid 11.9 percent in the previous quarter.

BARNEYS NEW YORK DILLARD’S May 2003: $74; November 2002: $50.7; Change: 46% May 2003: $1,232; November 2002: $1,636; Change: -30.8% The hard work and soul-searching at Barneys New York is Dillard’s capped three years of declines with what chairman paying off. Last year, Barneys reported net income of $7.5 Bill Dillard described as a “shockingly bad” fourth quarter. million, compared with a $15.2 million loss the previous year. Net and same-store sales for the quarter each declined 5 6 Barneys is talking expansion again. A Co-op bowed in South 6 percent. The company closed five stores last year and Dillard Beach, Miami, in September and more units could come. vowed to continue to cut expenses.

QUIKSILVER INC. CHARLOTTE RUSSE May 2003: $941.4; November 2002: $647.9; Change: 45.3% May 2003: $202.8; November 2002: $281.7; Change: -28% Quiksilver’s surf-inspired collections include the core Angling to get a bigger piece of the teen and tween pie, Quiksilver and Roxy lines, as well as the Hawk, Quiksilver Charlotte Russe opened Charlotte’s Room, a lifestyle and Silver Edition, Leilani, Raisins and Radio Fiji lines. While accessories concept. But young women weren’t impressed. 7 sales in the first quarter increased 25.4 percent to $78.6 million, 7 The chain closed Charlotte’s Room in March and will focus on the company’s net was down 9.1 percent to $3.7 million. its 270 Charlotte Russe and Rampage stores.

HAMPSHIRE GROUP CACHE INC. May 2003: $134.9; November 2002: $94.8; Change: 42.3% May 2003: $92.2; November 2002: $127.9; Change: -27.9% Knitwear manufacturer Hampshire Group acquired Caché, which sells clothing for women who’ve got it and want Requirements in September. Item-Eyes Inc., a privately held to flaunt it, saw same-store sales rise 4 percent in May, while sportswear company purchased in 2000, accounted for $44 total sales increased 9 percent to $17.8 million. However, in 8 million in net sales. 8 the first quarter, ended March 29, income fell 11.6 percent.

DOLLAR GENERAL SAKS INC. May 2003: $6,233; November 2002: $4,409; Change: 41.4% May 2003: $1,344; November 2002: $1,860; Change: -27.7% Dollar General leads the supervalue chain industry with $6.1 Saks Inc. posted a 1.6 percent same-store sales dip in May. billion in sales and more than 6,000 units. The no-frills stores The company is trying to hook new customers while they’re have become popular with pinched shoppers, with nearly 60 young. Saks Inc. bought the Libby Lu chain and helped FAO 9 million U.S. households expected to shop at dollar stores this 9 Schwarz by agreeing to buy $30 million of the bankrupt toy year. Dollar General opens at least one new store a day. retailer’s convertible preferred stock.

DELTA GALIL J.C. PENNEY May 2003: $265; November 2002: $192; Change: 38.2% May 2003: $4,699; November 2002: $6,358; Change: -26.1% Tel Aviv-based Delta Galil, is a global provider of private label During the first quarter ended April 26, Penney’s earnings intimate apparel and fabrics. Net profit and earnings per fell 29.1 percent to $61 million. Chairman and ceo Allen share for the first quarter increased 297 percent and 300 Questrom is trying to turn things around. One of his 10 percent, respectively, to $7.3 million or $0.40 per share. Sales 10 marketing coups was getting Bisou Bisou exclusively for the to the U.S. mass market rose 53 percent to $61 million. chain. He’s now working on Oscar de la Renta.

SOURCE: PUBLIC RECORDS AND INDEPENDENT RESEARCH DON’T MISS OUT!

Denim In Depth 2003 Section II: July 17 Close: June 30 Back by Popular Demand.

If you missed this breakthrough issue the first time around, here's your chance to be a part of the most successful In-Depth Report relied upon by retailers.

The hot brands, the trendsetters, the up-and-comers and a graphic look at the strategies that drive the denim market.

For more information, call Gus Floris, Fashion Manager, at 212/630.4636 WWDMediaWorldwide® or Maurice Newman, Consultant, at 323/951-1803. WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 12, 2003 13 - - / , .com y attn KG , sellable company. + Corinna y Fole Fax resume: (978) 462-4280 PRODUCTION MANAGER RECEPTIONIST RECEPTIONIST Please fax resume 212-967-4819 PRODUCTION COORDINATOR ell established Co. seeks organized, or email: hr@bennettcompan Please fax resume to (212) 328-1281 Production Assistant endors on same. Strong comm. skills, endors & buyers. Must be computer lit. PRODUCTION MGR Fax resume to 212-695-7548 detail individual withexperience minimum to 2 follow yrs. factories, up shipments, with overseas checking specs Duties include: working with designer/ MA basedProd. intimate Mgr. apparelprocess co. Resp. for seeks orders neg.v costs, and delivery attn. to detail, organized. 2 to 5 years exp. follow up with Excellent career opportunitymidtown with major accessanswering mfgr.customers, phones, Resp andGood include filing, various opportunityKnowledge of MS Word & Excel a must. office for greeting advancement. duties. High energyenergetic apparel person with great cotion communica- skills. seeks Willgreet maintain bright showroom customers. and and multi Goodpls fax resume: 212-575-0069 tasking organizational a must. Candidates W samples. Must be computer literate. Garmentoriented importergarment person seeking productionGood w/ English, & detail writtennecessary knowledge construction. & to verbal communicatev of skills w/overseas store/showroom; overseeing contractors; tracking/filling wholesale orders; sourc ing materials. Candidates w/design back ground pref. Fax resume: 212-475-5594 DESIGNER color sense, be production & de- Swimwear Division EVP of Merchandising- Perry Ellis International Please fax resumes to 646-443-3517 ASSOCIATE DESIGNER Please fax resume to: 212-354-4418 Coordinator TECH SPEC Fax resume to: 646-562-0885 Fax resume to: 212-382-3623 PRIVATE LABEL [email protected] PATTERNMAKER PATTERNMAKER Seeking aa dedicated juniors’Candidate and contemporary must denim innovativetrends have and & designer silhouettes. abilitybenefits. required. Great salary and sportswear Minimum for of to line. 4 yrs identify experience emerging Seeking an associateporary designer denim for & atwo sportswear juniors’ line. years contem- Applicant exp.,in must be have well allspecing, organized fittings and phases & ableIllustrator & Photoshop a must. detailed to of corrections. assist Proficiency design in including flat sketching, Fax resume to Lynn 212-302-2399 ProvideInternational Merchandising brandsHIlfiger, including; leadership Perrymerchandising Ellis, and for experience Jantzen, at aStrong Tommy NIke. branded fashion all sportswear sense andproduct. ability 10 Perry Excels to translate atto trends communicating years Ellis to develop clearconsumer vision product of and forfactories that designers customer in Women’s Asia. is needs.experience Team apparel Leader Experience both of withdynamic working 3 more trend-right and years with client tremendous than and of initiative; management and 10 meets understanding Positive communication employees. Attitude. of Good construction. skills. Enjoys working internal High Well inplayer. Willing to travel. Location: NY or Portland, Oregon. entrepreneurial energy, organized. gross setting. Team Strong margins and garment PATTERNMAKER Production Assistant Product Development organized, super efficient &to multi-task meet deadlines.benefits. E-mail resume to: Attractive salary & Fast growing women’s importspec co seeks techMust forconstruction, be private labelsketching, grading, and spec writing. experienced division. in fitting, garment technical Fast-paced children’s wearind. co. for seeking "Absorba"perience division. in 5 years apparel ex- Established apparel companyProduction Asst. seeking w/minboth domestic & imports. 5 years exp in Children’s wearenced first mfg. pattern makerdesigner to needs work with onsheets. experi- fittings specs & cost LIC mfrseeks exp of patternmaker resp.pattern, loungewear, 1st & samplehands, 2nd eveningwear control & contractors. Call 718-361-2295. cutters, quality Women’s sportswear firmgetic team seeks player ener- terns to generate thru firstsume to 212-268-1279, Attn: Ina pat- production. Please fax re- sign. Must have strong " f g d r J .Mustbe design process be responsible Togs, Inc. wovens & board apparel industry. y indiv with min 3 nn 212-302-2399 nn-ritchie.com Will y y Ltd. Fax (212) 302-1161 g, , appliques and mock nn@l Assistant y [email protected] Call 212-947-3400 (212) 704-0962 y in the development of prints, DESIGNER DESIGNER FIT MODEL FIT MODEL P.D.S. Gerber/Silhouette the following candidates: EMBROIDERY full time size 10 Fit Model. EDI/Order Entry Fax Resume to 212-382-1937 Fax to: Sharlet (212) 391-8027 A Division of Bab Garment Industry firm seeks Email L MERCHANDISER Pls fax resume to (212) 971-2277 Fax resume to h/r: 212 221-4399 Fax resume to: 212-768-7773 or Fax resume to L Please fax resume attn: Stella Please fax resume to 212-719-2942 omen’s Sportswear Private Label ill be resp for product Junior Activewear "Knits" Required ith overseas factories, proficient in NATIONAL BRAND! Freelance Showroom Asst pparel Mfg seeks Merchandiser/ Head Designer $BOE SusieJessil Email resume: [email protected] or KIDSWEAR PATMKR $68K newborn thru 6x. 5’7". Please fax resume to Merchandiser/Designer CAD GRAPHIC ARTIST GRAPHIC DESIGNER Leading childrenswear mfr looking for Apparel Staffin Men’s Assistant Designe Product Development8-10 yrs personcut exp & for sewgarment Contemporary Knits. construction Missy Fabric a w/ to knowledge must. & directeuropean Ability market, staff.interpret identify trendssew into Shop & commensurate with exp. key domestic knits & item mass cut appeal. and Salary technical sketching/specing.MAC literate. Must be (201) 867-4042 A Pvt. Labelorganized company and seeks detail oriented ato assistant creative, communicatesales. with production Mustand and garment be construction. Responsibil- ities familiar withmaking will fabrics shopping presentation include forcomputer skills required. latest boards flat trends. Excellent and sketching, Seeking EXPERIENCED EDIder entry and person. or- able Must to be multi selfexcellent task starter, computer andtion organized and with skills.ment. Company benefits. communica- Warm friendly environ- Contemporary women’s line seeksbroidery em- designer fordivision. social Must separates ing have skills excellent andexperience sketch- have with minimumBackground in designer market a plus. 3 embroidery years design. W Headquarters. Candidate mustto be able commentsample. regarding Previous fit fitrequired. and model experience feel Measurements36 o 1/2", Hip are: 39", Waist Bust 29", Height 5’6 Missy sportsweartemp co position seeksenvironment. Responsibilities include in indiv fastmaintaining for paced showroom, friendly sampleing, track- ticketing,hard working responsible. clerical. Good attitude, Excellentcad/graphic opportunityedge. for designerphotoshop dynamic with & Candidate illustratordevelop creative skills(mac) prints, to graphics for screens, must JrNY firm and grow your career ! market. and Join a trendy possess leading Candidate will workDesigner along side the Sr. presentationsextensive projects. working knowl ofPhotoshop & U4ia. Illustrator, Must have For girls apparel newborn - 6x yrs exp in theW childrens creation, designing, sketching, conductin fit sessionsfor sample fit. & issuing final approval fax: 212-643-2826. No calls please. EOE. Men’s leading designerseeks Assistant outerwear Designerexp. co. w/ Must 2-4 be years highly organized, exp’ sketched bodies for girls designs incl. market research, mood board w DESIGN / seeks fit model in size 8 for our N for the development of DESIGN creative & motivated embroideries s t ) f s x y 9 player. hand to list. y nworksintl.com nn at 212-302-239 g y [email protected] j 212-302-1561 IZOD GIRLS Dan @212-629-4803 DESIGNER DESIGNER APPAREL JOBS DESIGNER W-I-N-S-T-O-N [email protected] & Fax resume to 212-730-0913 212-244-5766 Attn: St DESIGN*SALES*MERCH [email protected] Fax resume to Stephanie in or E-mail: CAD DESIGNER ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION FAX RESUME TO 718-204-5081 sdaniele@desi Asst./Assoc. Designer Assistant to Stylist e are looking for highly motivated, ith sweater and collection dmin Since 1967 Fax resume to L Please fax resume to: (937) 428-5857 confidence @ 212-594-1533 or e-mail ery responsible, highly organized and seeks Full Time Designer. Two years minimum experience. Dayton, Ohio. Assoc. Designer & Graphic Artist Established novelty sweater company APPAREL STAFFING Designer/Merchandiser CUSTOMER SERVICE ASSOCIATE DESIGNER 3)Production Coords/Assts 4)Dsgnr-Jr C/S Kni Call (212) 643-8090 or fax: 643-8127 (agc 1)Dsgnr Girls 4/16 Chctr Lic2)Tech Swtrs&Kid Excellent oppty. forFax resume to: the right person. motivated professionalble with phone skills impecca- to communicately direct- with customers in all aspects o background. Mustfast-paced be ableexperience to environment working work with in sampleMust and room. have atin the contemporary market. least have 2 years experience Leading co.girls’ designers seeks to jointion creative, team. & Organiza- comm. detailed proficient skills essential. in Must IllustratorEmail: be & [email protected] Photoshop. 212-736-5839 Attn: Human Resources. or Fa For mainstreambrand European - Woven jeanswear &- Knits for - Juniors IndianDelhi. & Men’ market. Two main 4-6season flashes. Please email resume to: collections months/yr & in 2 mid- Successfulseasoned Sportswear professional within experience Co. allExtensive phases fabric seeks ofand knowledge the woven indling a design import must. process. resourcesdevelpoment knit Familiar packages. and Must w/ preparing player. be han- team TopReply in confidence. salary and opportunity. DESIGN High end eveninglocated wear in manufacturer Woodside,v Queens, seeks a servicingcomputer their proficient,and accounts. problem detail solver.Major Must Exp. in oriented and managing including be Specialtyorders to follow up & shipping. store entering accounts, and checking Creative, skilled designerglobal needed for men’s a streetwearable line. to apply Mustto trend be designs and that originaldirection reflect detail the ofMust history be and detail anin oriented and Illustrator established proficient have and strength Photoshop. in brand. Freelancers welcome. Fax resume to: outerwear Should and pants. Contemporary dresscompany andw seeks sportswear associate designer Fast paced, updatedmfr. pvt. seeks exp’d. label indivualW sptswr. w/min. 3-4 yrs. have excellent flatknowledge of sketching, trim thorough &cellent fabric market, follow-up ex- skills. Right Expanding textile/graphics designdio stu- seeking experienceders proficient CAD in Mac, design- Photoshoplustrator and Il- to joindesigners. our Great team opportunitytive of for individual in to crea- collection design house prints on forgrowth. a our Great daily atmosphere!in illustration a plus. Experience basis. Room for A Needed forhave 2 Textile yrsand exp. Converter. engravings. setting Mill up work Must have pitch a excellent sheets plus. Must colorto follow direction. Fax resume to: sense and be able creative, organized self starter. Must (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 Design Director. Must be a team m here-

212-719-0622. y 212-869-2699 Box#M 1083 New York, NY 10001 JXP Designs Inc. PRODUCTION

PRODUCTIONS Call Sherr c/o Fairchild Publications 7 West 34th Street, 4th Fl & (212)697-1282/(800)221-4425

Updating/Phone Interviews 60 E 42nd Street, NYC 10165 www.resumesforfashion.com ALLSTAR TKG & WAREHOUSE Fashion Store for License or Sale. PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD PATTERNS/SAMPLES JXP Designs &LLC Manufacturing byMay announce 13,Huang that 2003, Tan Ms. ThongTan effective Ann A.K.A. and Ann Kok Dwaynesevered their Hoard relationships and have are no longer associatedthe aforementioned companies. with High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- PATTERNS, SAMPLES, We Label & Ship - US Customs Whse Import/Export, Dist., GOH & Cartons sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 Profitable Business 4 Sale Sales $800M+. R.O.I 30-50%. Reply to: All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Est 23 yrs. Profitable, Florida Designer RESUMES THAT WORK! SINCE 1970 Master/Visa 718-945-3500 all-startrucking.co Specializing in small productions. Sam- ples, duplicates, patterns.shop to the trade. Fine fast work. Full service PROFESSIONAL RESUMES, INC. y legs. or Sherr

y , Don, Jerr y 212-594-1414 x251 y 201-558-9191 (937) 898-2975 212-880-0414 WANTED 500-20,000 SQ.FT Quick Turn 212-947-5500 Call CLOTHES-OUT: Distribution 800 sq. ft. SHOWROOM B’way+7th Ave SUBLETS Model not older than 1998. Call Rachel @ 718-369-2656 ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 New Hi Ceiling Installations For Space in Garment Center No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Great ’New’ Office Space Avail For ALL office & loft SPACES 1500, 2200, 3500, 8500-Tower Fl Hot Lofts-Low Prices, All Sizes Paul, Mike, Larr Call Evan @ 212-819-9090 ext. 19 Turn-key Condition - Great View Showrooms & Lofts Under Market Sublets - NO FEE! We are the compliance, distribution and logistic experts! Why spend all your time on shipping and compliance pro- blems? See how cost -effective we can be working for you. No charge for a quote. No chargeback guarantee on all shipping. Door to Door service provided for tour of our facility . E-mail us at [email protected] call us at Helmsley-Spear, Inc. Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. VAILABLE: DESK SPACE $300 1466 BROADWAY Allan Gallawa Good cond.; size 10; collapsible w/ BERNSTEIN R.E.-largest # NYC listings Office/Showrm-Great Deals! GARMENT CENTER REAL ESTATE BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Maternity Dress Form 14-59 St/Mad-9 Ave.; 1500-10000 SqFt & up NICE ENVIRONMENT 212-244-3964 36@7TH; NEW FLOOR;3 HI BIG WNDWS; CEILING; BRITEROOMS VIEW; 500FT 2 PRIVATE $1,200. ALSO A Prime Manhattan Jon 212-268-8043 14 WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 12, 2003 ra eeis&rglrFThus Fax hours. F/T regular resume toJoanat: & benefits Great Receptionist a seeks w LLC Leiber, Judith unexpected decline in mall traffic in traffic mall in decline unexpected and dramatic a to due challenging, was crease of89newstores. in- an and percent 6.6 of gain sales store same- a by driven million, $404.4 from million, $550.9 to percent 36.2 creased in- sales and million, $26.5 with pared com- million, $31.3 to percent 18.1 surged income as sales and profits its in creases in- double-digit posted also retailer cialty spe- teen York-basedvalue-priced New the 2002, 21, May on offering public tial the talentanddedicationofourpeople.” to and concept retail our of nature pelling com- the to brand, Aeropostale the of strength the to testimony real is ronment envi- retail challenging a amidst results excellent produce to ability “Our nesday, Wed-on here meeting annual pany’s com- the at said Aeropostale, of executive face oftoughchallenges. the in soared company,Aeropostale lic — YORK NEW By Jennifer Weitzman Aeropostale: First Year Public a Solid One t rfsinlapaac manner. & appearance professional ith xeineams.Eprec with Experience bags/ backpacksaplus. character must. Photoshop a can experience and specific Illustrator who requires licenses. girl artists job enhance graphic paced fast This strong team a in motivated environment. thrive that highly players need We outerwear/sportswear collections. is seekingexperienceddesigners: Fax resume/salaryrequirementsto: RECEPTIONIST diverse knowledgeofcurrentand Creative andinnovativeindividual Creative ,dynamicdesignerwith SPORTSWEAR DESIGNER Designers Needed! emerging trends.Mustbedetail growing accessoriescompany OUTERWEAR DESIGNER or faxLeslieat212594-1029 to developvariousgraphicsfor Geiger said the back-to-school season back-to-school the said Geiger ini- its saw company the that year a In chief and chairman Geiger, R. Julian Well-established andquickly GRAPHIC DESIGNER Graphic Designer oriented withexcellent Illustrator/Photoshop/ Illustrator/Photoshop/ Attn: PersonnelDept. [email protected] 201-461-6632 organizational skills. Email resumesto: Corel PC/Mac. Corel PC/Mac. 212-760-0223 In its rookie year as a pub- a as year rookie its In eE,Fxs re upis Must buyers, supplies. greet order & have min.2-3yrsexp.Immediatehire! Faxes, meet FedEx, phones, swer an- to receptionist personable outgoing, ut aka atpc.Ln Island Long pace. & detail- fast literate at extremely based co. specing task computer be multi excel & of Must oriented, knowledge construction ability. thorough garment have Must environment Great growthoppty,benefitsandwork - Stronggraphicandcolorsense - Linedevelopmentandsampling label. private - Cadexp-Mac-photoshop&illustrator & brands Skills include: National ac- catego- /lounge/ sleep tive. product ladies including diverse ries, creative for seeks designer importer apparel Major be fax: 212-643-2826.Nocallsplease.EOE. may for reports travel summary req’d. Excellentsalary&benefits. Some & creating management. plans and projections, retail data turn collecting & door sales for annual developing resp accounts, from be Will maximize can to sales. businesses information who an retailers’ interpret indiv and analyze has an and for plan mfr oppty excellent childrenswear Leading W up- friendly, a beat receptionist. for looking spa High-tech l rdcinapcsadhv good ces. Excellentworkenvironment. offi- have overseas and with throu skills aspects communication follow production to all ori- ability h the detail garmen have be ented, have knowledge, Must construction Technician. a seeks Spec Co. Import Sweater Established Fax resumew/salreq.to(212)563-0204 Email resume:[email protected] Receptionist Wanted! Retail Planner/Analyst SENIOR DESIGNER l salse cesr o seeks Co. Accessory Established ell SPEC TECHNICIAN Spec/Tech Assistant Fax resumetoMarie631-549-5240 Please faxresumeto212-772-0268 Fax resumetoh/r:212-221-4399 completel Fax resumestoJod RECEPTIONIST Great atmosphere. y barespa y ment. Itnowoperatesjustover400stores. manage- current Aeropostale’s to vision di- store specialty its Federatedsold 1998, August In stores. 100 than more opened Stores, Department pany,Federated com- parent current its later, and Macy’s, decade, next the Over 1987. in store special Aeropostale mall-based first the opened Macy’s 20s. their in men targeted and Eighties early the in initiative label private store department a as Co. & Macy performance,” Geigersaid. financial our on stimuli external of effects adverse the minimize to and changes ket mar- to adapt to ability our demonstrated formula operating our of flexibility Stock Exchange onWednesday.York New the on $21.60 at close to cent per- 1.8 or cents 39 up traded company the of Shares 10. Oct. on $5.25 of low 52-week its reached it since recovered has price marketing spendingplayedoutwell. external curtailed and commitments dise merchan- activity,reduced promotional increased firm’s the said but September, : 212-398-2086 Aeropostale was established by R.H. by established was Aeropostale the and approach our of success “The stock Aeropostale’s time, same the At g t Fax resume to 212-695-7548 attn RD Fax resumeto212-695-7548attn L/D’s S/D, Prep S/Samples. vendors. & buyers salespeople, w/ communi- Follow-up Good nec. skills lit. cation computer be Must environ- work Great & ment &benefits.Plsfaxresume: Good skills. required. organization computer yrs skills 5 Excellent communication factories. required. experience with sweater/knitwear communica- tracking technical / approval, to tion labdip Prod. design. Specs, graded seeks Designer technical fittings, corrections, of Spec Co. aspects all Knitwear handle Sweater Technical Missy Updated sports- dresses, w of importer paced Fast have Must and skills. Spec childrenswear experience. computer good seeks communication with company Technician apparel Large laefxrsm o 1-5-05or 212-354-9085 to: email: [email protected] resume garments. spec fax and Please organized sketch to creative, able be and Must ex- years perience. 3 minimum with person seeks TECH/ASST DESIGNER a,jno,msyadlresizes large and missy junior, ear, SPEC TECHNICIAN trsadcpbeo doing of capable private labelbusiness. and majordept. stores with a connections has seeking that salesperson is professional separates and related suits, bottoms, in specializes pae moderate Updated Technical Designer TEXTILE CONVERTERASST. 212-764-9332 ore-mailto Fax resumeto212-239-2766 SALES PERSON [email protected] Please faxresumeto Knitwear 212-221-8556 company that raie n aenumbers/inventor have and organized , A ra rwhopruiy Excellent opportunity. w Growth following. label Great dept. private & store, record. catalog specialty store, sales better have proven Must co. with sweater self-starter updated seeks energetic,organized,motivated Better Growing in sales account key years outerwear preferred. Mini- 3+ relationships. with mum aggressive retail salespeople established motivated, well-organized and highly company vertically seeks outerwear a leather expansion, integrated market to Due relationships store required. sports/athletic & store apparel athletic children’s branded Leading an AND in sleepwear A knowledge & Pro/Merch- underwear technical girls’ with Sales andiser experienced manufacturer seeks wear children’s Leading Dresses • Underwear&Sleepwear •S email Please & people experience. resumes: [email protected] superb planning have Accoun detail-oriented be ideal skills, will communication The working buyers. Exec and with directly organizing presentations, dept., product possess planning - Must independently managing work to accounts. initiative great merchant mass A W v l utpetssadwr eli a daily in a well work in han- and team to tasks multiple Able sales dle duties. the strong administatrative assist with a to skills person communication & seeks organizational oriented company detail branded Leading setv niiult aae&gro & manage to individual assertive eatetsoe,seilystores, specialty major and chains.PleaseE-mailresumeto: stores, positions with affiliations department Both strong 6x. require through newborn 30K plusbenefits. [email protected] orfax:212-239-4261. Accessory AccountExe [email protected] [email protected] ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE r atpcdevrnet Excel, environment. paced fast ery ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE csoyFr nNCi ekn an seeking is NYC in Firm ccessory cutEeuiei il’dess- dresses girls’ in Executive ccount cutEeuie togdepartment Strong Executive. ccount ork environment.Fax:(212)221-8556 r -alkoldeamust. a knowledge E-mail & ord SALES EXECUTIVE New Balance auatrn scos A rti, howev- retail, At sectors. manufacturing and worker office construction, estate, Yorkreal New the the from came district been dramatic,”theFed said. not has effect the that suggested reports most but confidence, consumer and ness busi- to lift some provided have to pears ap- concerns war-related of unwinding “The April. mid through March covered that Book” Beige last the since riorated dete- had conditions economic that gested “sug- district no that report 58-page its of Dallas, Kansas CityandMinneapolis. York,New in based districts bank’s the in optimism business non-retail highlighted Fed the recovery, of declaration a from Fardistricts. 12 bank’s the in businesses of surveys on based Book, Beige Fed’s the in nomic activityduringMayandlateApril. eco- of overview an in Wednesday ported re- Reserve Federal the “sluggish,” main re- overall conditions business and luster” “lack- remains overall spending consumer although improving, is economy U.S. the — WASHINGTON Beige Book Reports on ‘Sluggish’ Conditions Laura Ashley ALES PRO/MERCHANDISER SALES EXEC/KEY WORLDWIDE INC. ACCOUNT SALES opn seeking company requirements to:212-290-8301 Please faxresumeandsalary Please forwardresumesto: The positive signs of recovery from recovery of signs positive The sentence second the in noted Fed The came activity economic of snapshot The ATHLETICWEAR EVERLAST Please E-mailresumeto: Sales Assistant No callsplease. No callsplease. KIDS an experienced hr ae oe signals some are There

& w c y t rEmi orrsm,cvrlte to: letter cover resume, [email protected] your Lai’s E-mail Kong: Kevin or Hong call in Please office plus. a accounts to least contacts at established in EXPERIENCE have OF business MUST 10-YEARS a who seeking our are salesperson and expand nationwide are America We to 1977. of in looking States founded in United was the stores America, and Europe department Asia, / major Knitwear with existing leading businesses Asia’s manufacturing Sweater Factory of one Garment Ltd., & Knitting Essence sal- great stores. with ary andbenefits. specialty opportunity experi- and Excellent years department 5 servic- excellent ing apparel, least bridge women’s have in at ence join Must and to team. contacts sales highly professional a la- our sales seeks based company motivated NYC apparel dynamic, dies paced, Fast t meit ae.Dlvr national Delivery sales. immediate and ate stores, chain & Associate. Candidatesw/retailexp.pref. sales. Allcatagories.Highcommision. Bway seeksSALESREPSforcloseout Downtown boutiqueseeksF/TSales Please faxresumeto(212)736-9171 qualified andexperiencedFTsales omng,mtv n aiieteefrso t national experi its industry years of 10 efforts of minimum the have maximize Must and force. professional road motive seasoned seeks manage, Company to Sportswear Better Major ihrgoa ae es&SeilySoe.Tae ososa shows contacts to strong Travel Stores. have Specialty Must & must. Pleasesendresumeto: Reps shows. Sales regional regional with of knowledge & candidates forthestorelocatedin Est’d ImporterwithShowroomon Soho. FaxresumetoRosanna@ SWEATER &KNITWEAR Sales Professional An Italianluxuryretailerseeks Call 212-730-0897,AskforCS ROAD SALES Fax resumeto:212-475-5594 JUNIOR &MISSY SALES -F/T Road SalesExecutive SALES POSITION Foley +Corinna SALES REPS (212) 545-0086 ALSO RETAIL 852-2270-2286 spur a recovery bytheendofyear.spur arecovery should legislation tax-cut from boost a and prices energy lower of pectations ex- administration Bush Washingtonthat in members Federation Retail National of gathering a told official Commerce and furniturereportedsharpdeclines. textiles of sectors production Richmond, In business. in increase an reporting York,New with Cleveland and Minneapolis mixed, remained also years, two last the in workers million 2 about trimmed have creasing theuseofpart-timeworkers.” in- and registers cash faster in investing ing, market- their improving as strategies such using — efficient more become and costs their reduce to ways on focus to continue ers sales inNewYork, theFed said. apparel hampered weather cool tricts, dis- other several in true was As stores. discount for expectations below and plan,” above or “on business reporting stores department with May, in “mixed” were sales reported chains er,major 7 West34thStreet,4thFl c/o FairchildPublications New York,NY10001 enhl, lo n ensa, top Wednesday, a on also Meanwhile, which manufacturers, among Activity “retail- districts, Dallas and Boston the In Box#M 1082 a gener- can

stores and s’ otcsa eatet specialty, department, at chain &discountstores.Call917-359-3741 contacts est’d TION, ACCOUNTING,TECHNICALetc.staff? er x nj.sotwa mkt. sportswear jr. 10 over in w/ exp aggressive years & working Hard letter cover fax Please and resumeto specialty with contacts. and store store candidate department strong exceptional Seeking blouses. PleaseFaxorE-mailresumeto: w W poten- earning plus under High Commission tial, plus. interna- a independently necessary, contacts industry tional and fashion work the self-starter in experienc a to years 3-5 be supervision. Must minimal Reebok, Gawsi, able Amsterdam, Crown, others. Five and of brands Millionaire, Our active Teenage Gsus sales. to 300+ multi-brand include organized with highly with service be deal must for Territory will and executive accounts Coast Candidate account show- East an sales. accessory seeking showroom and forwar fashion room footwear, paced apparel, fast growing, Fast ae rfsinlfrNY Showroom, N.Y. for Professional Sales euet:[email protected] or faxto212-768-9696 to: resume SELECT SHOWROOM Vice PresidentofSales Sales Pro-Jr.Sptswr SHOWROOM SALES **CALL 973-564-9236JaralFashionAgc Do youneedexp’dDESIGNERS,PRODUC t olwn nMsy&Lresize Large & Missy in following ith l salse o ek nenergetic an seeks co. established ell unique.tradin ***APPAREL EMPLOYERS*** Account Executive 212-869-5384 — Joanna Ramey 212-398-9695 g [email protected] benefits. Send ence Have y .** d e - WWD, THURSDAY, JUNE 12, 2003 15 1.877.LACEDYE www.sampledyeing.org Daily Courier Service in Manhattan 24 Hour Service No Minimum Yardage •Sample Fabric Dyeing •Exact Component Matching •Sample Cup Molding and missy sportswear and sleepwear markets. DESIGN INFLUENCE View some of our work at www.designinfluence.com We can offer you your own personal design studio! Tel: 212-840-2155 55 West 39th Street, Suite 703 We provide styling and line development for the children’s, junior Current fabric and trimour swatches own photos are from available Paris.and in We graphic our develop library, original designs allover presentation boards, 1st patterns & samples are also done under the same roof! along geared print, with embroidery for your specific market. Spec sketches, Why American Apparel: 4. Scalable Business Model 5. Environmental Commitment American Apparel is a capitalist Throughout the next four years, success as much as a social American Apparel plans to convert 6. Conclusion 1. Youth Directed success, making the business more over 80% of its cotton consumption We are going to be one of the most American Apparel is a youth 3. New Paradigm than just a charity that the to sustainable cotton (organic or efficient companies in the world, directed company with no 2. Best Styles – Best Quality Internalized production, where the conventional competition views as quasi-organic cotton). In 2004, we whereby no community or human institutional investors. We are American Apparel offers the best workers are part of the company, is an economic failure. Recent analysis plan to utilize at least 20% being is adversely affected by our challenging the corporate styles, colors, and sizes. All our far more efficient than the industry proves that American Apparel is one environmentally sustainable cotton business practice. American Apparel establishment and rejecting garments are made to fit, feel, and norm of offshore or onshore sub- of the most profitable operations in and blend it in to our general will simultaneously maintain a institutional norms while remaining look like no other. Our fabrics are contraction. At American Apparel, the T-shirt industry, making it a production. American Apparel will vigorous commitment to consumer committed to making the best the most innovative in the industry the workers have a voice and can business model that can be applied also arrange for the recycling of over value by striving to deliver the T-shirts in the world. It is T-shirts and are made exclusively from influence their own lives as well as to thousands of companies and half a million pounds of fabric highest quality, most economical by youth, for youth. 100% combed cotton. the life of the company. industries worldwide. scraps. T-shirts ever made.

Large manufacturers looking to coordinate programs, please feel free to contact our key account rep, Tabitha Vogelsong, at (213) 488-0226 ext. 280.