Double Gold for Climbing Star Coxsey
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Annual Report 2019
INTERNATIONAL FEDERATION OF SPORT CLIMBING ANNUAL REPORT 2019 www.ifsc-climbing.org CONTENT Paraclimbing World Championships ----58 President’s Message -------------------- 4 Olympic Qualifying Event ------------ 62 Secretary General’s Message ------------ 6 Youth World Championships-----------64 Inside the IFSC ------------------------- 8 ANOC Beach Games ---------------- 66 WHAT IS THE IFSC?--------------------- 8 China Open ------------------------ 67 MAKING HISTORY --------------------- 8 SPORT DEPARTMENT DEVELOPMENTS ---- 68 THE STRATEGIC PLAN------------------- 10 A 2019 Meetings -------------------- 68 A N WOMEN IN THE IFSC-------------------- 12 Official Sport Equipment ------------ 74 N N N New Result System ---------------- 77 U GOVERNANCE ------------------------ 14 U A A EXECUTIVE BOARD--------------------- 16 L Corporate Activities ------------------- 78 L STAFF -------------------------------20 MARKETING & COMMUNICATIONS ------- 78 2 NEW HEADQUARTERS ------------------24 Marketing Strategy ---------------- 78 3 NATIONAL FEDERATIONS----------------26 Synca Dentsu --------------------- 79 R Sponsors------------------------- 80 R E TRIBUTE TO MR. YURIY SKURLATOV -------28 E P Broadcasters---------------------- 82 P COMMISSIONS------------------------30 O Monthly Highlights Shows ----------- 86 O R R Our Sport ------------------------------42 Digital Marketing ------------------ 90 T T NUMBER OF CLIMBERS WORLWIDE ------- 42 Media --------------------------- 94 Continental Qualifying Events OLYMPIC GAMES ---------------------- -
Offic Ial Press Release Combined Women: Another Record Broken by Garnbret
IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS HACHIOJI 2019 COMBINED WOMEN: ANOTHER RECORD BROKEN BY GARNBRET The second to last event of the IFSC Climbing World Championships Hachioji 2019 took place on August 20 with the Women’s Combined Finals. The intense battle for the final women’s gold of the World Championships followed an exhausting day of qualifications where the top 20 athletes from last week’s competitions were whittled down to eight. Another Speed Win For MIROSLAW climber to top both the qualification and finals route. However, GARNBRET followed up with a top of her own PRESS RELEASE The race between Aleksandra MIROSLAW (POL) and Ai to take first place in the round. After her bouldering MORI (JPN) kicked-off the speed portion of the win, NOGUCHI was close to catching GARNBRET’s Women’s Combined World Championships. Despite a overall lead and just needed to top the wall to take the slip halfway up the wall, MIROSLAW still managed to gold, sadly she fell on the jump to the final hold, reach the buzzer first and kept up the momentum to landing in third for the lead portion. finish the big final race against Shauna COXSEY (GBR) in first. The small final saw Petra KLINGLER (SUI) A Hat Trick for GARNBRET against Miho NONAKA (JPN), with KLINGLER With the combination of results from all three outpacing NONAKA to land in third. categories, GARNBRET successfully defended her OFFICIAL NOGUCHI Turns Up the Heat 2018 Combined World Championship win and claimed 2019 her third gold medal in Hachioji. NOGUCHI finished The bouldering event introduced the new three route TUESDAY second to earn a second silver medal, while COXSEY 20TH final instead of the traditional four routes. -
Offic Ial Pr Es S R Elea Se Noguchi & Shar
InternatIonal FederatIon oF Sport Climbing www.ifsc-climbing.org IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP VAIL 2014: SE NOGUCHI & SHAR AFUTDINOV SET THEMSELVES APART WITH GOLD MEDALS This Friday and Saturday, June 6-7, the 2014 IFSC Boulder World Cup Series pulled into its only stop on US soil, in Vail, Colorado. Vail, home to the third largest ski mountain in North America, has become a mecca for mountain sports enthusiasts, and this year’s World Cup, held in conjunction with the Vail Mountain Games, showcased the best of what the sport has to offer! The 2014 Vail IFSC Boulder World Cup attracted a large only in two more attempts. With her gold this weekend, field of American climbers that don’t regularly compete in Noguchi tightens the distance between herself and IFSC World Cups, and the competition was all the more Shauna Coxsey, still in first after Vail in the IFSC Boulder fierce! Rankings, making our next competitions in Haiyang and Laval must-sees! Renewed finals, but familiar champions OFFICIAL PRESSRELEA OFFICIAL Next stop: Haiyang (CHN) With a large field of American climbers making their way through to the semi-finals, the field was tense and finals The IFSC Boulder World Cup tour reaches its penultimate 2014 SATURDAY spots all the more difficult to come by. In the men’s field, stop, and the Lead series kicks off this June 20-22 in 7TH last year’s Vail gold medalist Russia’s Dmitrii Haiyang, China, with our first three-discipline World Cup of JUNE Sharafutdinov repeated his feat and took the top spot, 2014! With Lead, Speed, and Boulder, there's sure to be topping all four problems. -
IFSC World CUP Millau 2013: Austria's Golden Duo on Top In
INTERNATIONAL FEDERATION OF SPORT CLIMBING IFSC WORLD CUP MILLAU 2013: AusTRIA’S GOLDEN ELEASE DUO ON TOP IN FRANCE R Anna Stöhr and Kilian Fischhuber are the winners of the second IFSC Bouldering World Cup last Saturday in Millau, France! Only in the finals Austria’s top boulderers racked up their victories in a more than thrilling competition. It was a bouldering competition as all climbing First competition, first victory for fans could dream: The IFSC Bouldering World Kilian Fischhuber Cup in Millau was marked by quite some In the men’s competition reigning world challenging boulder problems and many champion Dmitrii Sharafutdinov led the field turnarounds in the ranking lists. High-level after the semi-finals in front of surprisingly climbing was shown from the start - with the strong Jorg Verhoeven (made his first OFFICIAL PRESS OFFICIAL PRESS result that top boulderers like Momoka Oda, Bouldering final since 2008) and Bouldering 2013 Melissa Le Neve, Sean McColl or Jakob Schubert MONDAY World Cup winner 2012, Rustam Gelmanov. 8 already dropped out in the semi-finals. APRIL But in the finals Kilian Fischhuber, 5th after the Second stage, second victory for Anna Stöhr semis, got into his stride: In his first competition of the season Austria’s fivefold Bouldering Last year’s Overall Bouldering World Cup champion was the only one to top out on three winner Anna Stöhr was the lowest to qualify in final boulder problems and so walked away with the women’s final. But with a great performance the gold medal. Places two and three went to in the final round the Austrian double world Guillaume Glairon Mondet who gained three champion worked her way up and went head to ranks from the semi-finals and Netherland’s head with Britain’s youngster Shauna Coxsey Jorg Verhoeven. -
MEDIA GUIDE 2018 Englisch
CON 1. WELCOME NOTE ////////////////////////////////////// TENTS ////// ////////////////// ////////////////// Dear media representatives, 1. Welc ome Note Welcome to adidas ROCKSTARS 2018! We are thrilled to host the eighth edition of our interna - 2. tional bouldering invitational at Stuttgart’s beautiful Porsche-Arena, one of the most modern General In 02 sports arenas in Europe. formation 3. for the Me Schedule dia 04 This year’s event sees over 70 top class athletes from over 20 different countries including 4. multiple Bouldering World Champions, the overall winners and top athletes of the 2018 Boul - adidas ROC 07 dering World Cup, the two-time overall champion and current front-runner of the Lead World KSTARS 4.1 Cup, the two reigning European Bouldering Champions as well as the four-time World Champion General In 08 Combined (Boulder/Lead/Speed). You can look forward to a stellar season finale! formatio 4.2 n Prize Mon 08 When we first came up with the idea for adidas ROCKSTARS, nearly every single athlete we ey talked to mentioned that the best competitions are the ones with a great atmosphere and 4.3 Hea d Referee 13 good music. That input encouraged us to implement our idea of combining ‘climbing’ with 4 ‘music’ live on stage. This year, world-famous MC & Beatboxer DJ Eklips from Paris will heat .4 Regul ations (Abs 12 up the crowds during the final together with extreme sports DJs Chainsaw and Sungod. The 4 tract) renowned American rock climber and hobby dj Dave Graham, who was the fourth person to .5 Partic ipating Cou 19 send Wolfgang Güllich’s legendary route ‘Action Directe (the world’s first 9a), will be spinning ntries the tunes at the after party. -
Posouzení Validity Klasifikace Obtížností Nové Bouldrové Oblasti
UNIVERZITA KARLOVA Fakulta tělesné výchovy a sportu Posouzení validity klasifikace obtížností nové bouldrové oblasti (Goethovy skalky) Diplomová práce Vedoucí diplomové práce: Vypracoval: doc. Jiří Baláš Ph.D. Johan Hannsmann Praha, únor 2021 Prohlašuji, že jsem závěrečnou diplomovou práci zpracoval samostatně a že jsem uvedl všechny použité informační zdroje a literaturu. Tato práce ani její podstatná část nebyla předložena k získání jiného nebo stejného akademického titulu. V Praze, dne …....................................... podpis diplomanta Evidenční list Souhlasím se zapůjčením své diplomové práce ke studijním účelům. Uživatel svým podpisem stvrzuje, že tuto diplomovou práci použil ke studiu a prohlašuje, že ji uvede mezi použitými prameny. Jméno a příjmení: Fakulta/katedra: Datum vypůjčení: Podpis: Poděkování Tímto bych chtěl poděkovat především doc. Jiřímu Balášovi Ph.D. za odborné vedení při práci a Ladislavu Žákovi za umožnění tvorby v lezecké oblasti, dále své rodině za podporu během psaní závěrečné práce i celého předchozího studia. Abstrakt Název: Posouzení validity hodnocení klasifikace obtížností v nové bouldrové oblasti. Cíle: Cílem této práce je posoudit validitu klasifikace obtížnosti výstupů při boulderingu v nové oblasti. Metody: Ověření klasifikace obtížností prováděl soubor šesti mužů a čtyř žen. Hodnocení probíhalo během jedné kontinuální návštěvy skal s individuální dobou odpočinku mezi problémy. Lezci klasifikovali 10 výstupů okamžitě po dokončení jednotlivého výstupu a individuálně, bez možnosti radit se o svých odhadech. Navrhovaná obtížnost výstupů pro klasifikaci se pohybovala mezi obtížnostmi 12 až 17 IRCRA. Výsledky: Průměrné hodnocení klasifikace obtížnosti cest vyšlo o 0,89 bodu IRCRA vyšší než prvotní návrh s výskytem drobných rozdílů mezi muži a ženami. Vliv výkonnosti lezců na jejich hodnocení obtížnosti je statisticky nevýznamný. -
Alpinprogramm
# TRUST SOMMER / HERBST 2015 ALPINPROGRAMM Das Können ist(PAUL des PREUSS) Dürfens Maß. www.alpsclimbing.com Introducing the Ozone Magnus Rastrom Retail Marketing Manager Ticino, Switzerland BlackDiamondEquipment.com Photographer: Lukas Warzecha 1 WILLKOMMEN DAS ALPS SOMMERPROGRAMM Liebe ALPS Freunde und FreundInnen, Unser Ziel ist es immer, Dir in der Zeit, die Welche neuen Kurse und Angebote liebe Bergsportbegeisterte! wir gemeinsam verbringen dürfen, Deine haben wir vorbereitet? Möglichkeiten und Fertigkeiten zu entwickeln und Dein Selbstvertrauen in Deine Fähigkei- Im Inneren des Kataloges findest Du ein Unser Motto für den Sommer 2015 ten zu stärken. deutlich erweitertes Klettersteigangebot, ist Vertrauen #TRUST. mehr Kurse zum Thema Bergsteigen und Das Thema für uns als moderne Seit November 2013 haben wir viel über die Bergwandern und neue Angebote im Bereich Bergschule schlechthin! Vermittlung dieser Fähigkeiten im Rahmen Klettern und Bouldern. Viel Spass damit! unserer Kurse und Führungen lernen dürfen. Wissen, dass wir nun in unsere Sommerpla- Wieso findest Du nicht alle Kurse und Dein Vertrauen ist ein Vorschuss in unsere nung 2015 einfließen lassen. Fähigkeiten als Begleiter für Dich im Rahmen Angebote im Katalog? unserer Kurse und Führungen. Dieses Ver- Was ist inhaltlich neu 2015? trauen wissen wir zu schätzen und versuchen Da wir immer daran interessiert sind sehr stets auf unseren gemeinsamen Wegen ein homogene Gruppen zusammenzustellen, Neben den bewährten Kursen, Gipfelbe- Stück mehr davon zu verdienen. sind einige Angebote nur mehr über unsere steigungen und Einsteigertagen haben wir Einladungslisten verfügbar. besonders wert auf den Bereich persönliche Unsererseits sind wir auch darauf ange- Mehr dazu unter www.alpsclimbing.com Entwicklung gelegt. Unser Kursprogramm wiesen, Dir in Deinen Einschätzungen über haben wir daher sehr stark um den Bereich Dein Eigenkönnen, Deinen Vorbereitungen Coaching erweitert – mehr dazu auf den nach- auf unsere Unternehmungen und Deinen folgenden Seiten. -
Offic Ial Press Relea Se Routes Harder Than Ever
IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP MEIRINGEN 2019 SE ROUTES HARDER THAN EVER WITH CLIMBERS TO MATCH For the fourth time in IFSC history the World Cup season has started in Meiringen with a great show on a brand new climbing wall equiped with custom holds just for the competition. Problems were as creative as they were difficult, but were met by athletes ready for the challenge. In the men’s Final, dominated by Asian climbers, Adam ONDRA demonstrated his readiness for the Pre-Olympics season. Janja GARNBRET also looked incredibly strong by solving all the problems but one! Meiringen may have provided us some winter snow, but the After several injuries, the British climber, Shauna COXSEY temperature inside the venue was turned up thanks to the is back to the top showing that she is still in the game. With performance of the athletes and a sold out audience! 2 Tops including a flash she jumped back on the podium with a third place finish for the first time since the IFSC Equilibrium and elongation World Cup Munich 2017. As Meiringen’s returning 2018 Bouldering Champion, Jernej Very impressive in Semis, the French athlete, Fanny GIBERT, KRUDER missed the Finals this year leaving room for Tomoa failed to perform well in Finals with only one Top and one NARASAKI and Adam ONDRA to fight it out for gold. Zone. She ranked 4th. Once again, the Japanese team demonstrated its preparation and discipline placing 4 athletes in the Finals. At home, even with the support of the public cheering her If the fist boulder was a formality (except for Kokoro FUJI on, Petra KLINGLER only topped one problem and have to OFFICIAL PRESS RELEA OFFICIAL who missed it) with 5 Tops, problem 2 was another story all settle for 5th place. -
Competitive Climbing - Overview Competitive Climbing Is an Indoor Competitive Sport Where the Players Need to Climb the Artificial Walls
COMPILED BY : - GAUTAM SINGH STUDY MATERIAL – SPORTS 0 7830294949 Competitive Climbing - Overview Competitive climbing is an indoor competitive sport where the players need to climb the artificial walls. There are three different categories in this sport which are lead, speed and bouldering. The rules and strategies vary based on the sport type. With a wide popularity worldwide, this game was also considered to be included in Olympic games in 2013. History of Competitive Climbing Competitive climbing was initially originated at Soviet Union where the sport was mostly focused on speed climbing. In 1985, a group of best climbers gathered at Bardonecchia, Italy in an event called SportRoccia and it was the first lead climbing competition. In 1986, the French Federation organized the first indoor competitive climbing event at Vaulx-en-Velin, Lyon. Slowly the sport started getting worldwide recognition and in 1988, the first Competitive Climbing World Series was organized. In 1989, the first Competitive Climbing World Cup in Lead and Speed was organized. Around the 1990s, many large events in countries like Europe, Japan and US were organized and the competitions started using artificial walls in order to avoid negative environmental impact. THANKS FOR READING – VISIT OUR WEBSITE www.educatererindia.com COMPILED BY : - GAUTAM SINGH STUDY MATERIAL – SPORTS 0 7830294949 In 1991, the first world championship was held in Frankfurt, Germany. In 1998, Bouldering was introduced as another competitive climbing discipline and in 1999, the first Bouldering World Cup was held. In January, 2007, 45 country federations together found the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC). Participating Countries Both as a recreational activity and as a competitive sport, competitive climbing is presently one of the popular sports. -
PRESS KIT September 14Th-18Th 2016 World Championships
PRESS KIT September 14th-18th 2016 World Championships & paraclimbing 2 Summary Presentation of the event 3 © photo credits: Gaël BOUQUET des CHAUX/FFME Editorials 4 Anne COMBAZ/FFME Marc DAVIET/FFME Climbing for dummies 6 Rémi FABRÈGUE/FFME Olivier MANSIOT/FFME Olympic Games 7 Marie-Anne MIDY/FFME Program 8 AccorHotels Arena 9 Disciplines 10 Defending champions 14 The world’s bests 16 The world medalists 17 The French team 18 Ticketing 20 Practical information 21 The FFME 22 Media & contacts 23 worldclimbing2016.com September 14th-18th 2016 World Championships Organize the best & paraclimbingclimbing competition ever! 3 © photo credits: Gaël BOUQUET des CHAUX/FFME Anne COMBAZ/FFME Marc DAVIET/FFME Rémi FABRÈGUE/FFME Olivier MANSIOT/FFME Marie-Anne MIDY/FFME This is “just” what the FFME, in charge of the Climbing World Championships organization at the AccorHotels Arena from the 14th to the 18th of September 2016 – is promising for this climbing world summit. It is time to introduce them. Five days of competition. The four climbing disci- for us. It is the climbing world supreme title that is plines. The 500 best climbers worldwide competing at stake during a few minutes of competition", tells to win one of the 16 gold medals (at least). This is the Romain Desgranges, one of the biggest lead climbing 2016 Climbing World Championships scenario that specialists in the French team. will be staged in the biggest arena of the country: The brand new AccorHotels Arena. "Successful and spectacular World Championships are one of the best arguments in favor of our disci- An exceptional venue for the main climbing compe- pline. -
10 Melloblocco®10
10 MELLOBLOCCO ®10 10 years of Melloblocco ABOUT MELLOBLOCCO ® “Melloblocco ®, international boulder meeting”, is the largest outdoor bouldering meeting in the world. The idea was born in 2003 and in 2004 its first edition was organized by the Lombardy Mountain Guides, , President Ettore Togni and promoters Nicolò Berzi e Michele Comi, then by the Valmasino Municipality, Major Ezio Palleni, and recently by the Valmasino Tourist Association, President Giacomo Sertori. The meeting takes place on the many boulders scattered in Val di Mello and Val Masino (in the province of Sondrio, in Northern Italy), in a beautiful natural scene, only 140 km north of Milan. Every year new areas are added, where the participants feel the unique emotions of bouldering with the best world specialists, trying together to solve boulder problems of all difficulties. In order to motivate the strongest male and female athletes, a bunch of new problems are selected every year – based on their beauty and high or extreme difficulty, each associated to a money prize which is shared by the few who send the problem. All participants who have enrolled in the Melloblocco ® may try to send the money-winning boulders and all of them may win pieces of technical gear or clothing offered by the sponsoring companies during the event closing ceremony. During Melloblocco ® concerts, exhibitions parties and video shows are a great opportunity for climbers to share their passion and chill-out. The media, too, take their opportunity to take pictures, share views and to interview the strongest boulder specialist in the world. SOME FIGURES ON MELLOBLOCCO ® Melloblocco ® takes place every year during the first week-end of May. -
Psyched! and a Huge Good Luck to All the Team Members and People Taking Part in the Next Round of Competitions
Issue 003 June 2010 Britain’s Stewart Watson at the CWIF 2010 fi nishing 4th over all in a World Class Climbing Competition hosted at the Climbing Works, perfect start to the season. — Alex Messenger Th e UK Competition Climbing Newsletter from the BMC Competition Committee >> Here it is... the third Competition Newsletter from the BMC Competition Committee All About Introduction Competitions... Here it is, the third BMC Competition Newsletter from the BMC Competition Committee, ably compiled by British Team Managers, Climbing Wall Managers, British Team Members and the UK’s Competition Climbing Population. Th e aim of the newsletter is to keep you informed on the UK Climbing Competition Circuit as well as upto date with what the British Climbing Team is doing, not only on home ground, but the world climbing circuit as well. I would like to thank all the contributors for their articles and photos and if for some reason an article or photo has not been used it will be down to the sheer volume I have received, a big thanks to the supporters of the team, especially Five Finger Th ing for supplying kit for the Bouldering Team. Th is edition sees us introduce the sport of Dry Tooling, with articles from Pete Hill, Rob Gibson and Anne Arran and some stunning shots from Lukasz Warzecha, this hopefully will become a regular feature as more dry tooling comps happen around the country and abroad. >> From the teams it is inspiring to hear very good early reports on how competitors are doing, with good performances so early on in the season and with the IFSC Tara Hayes staying relaxed at her fi rst International Competition, Bouldering World Cup in Sheffi eld and the World Youth Championships at the the Youth Color, Imst, Austria.