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J&SHION DESICNJER Clatre W F ^ D I^-A ass ^•I^f***-' i.; tf> a "it J&SHION DESICNJER CLAtRE Wf^DeX JL X J[ V JL J—J IMf WlfKLY NE WJMAC.AJIN t PUBLISHER'S LETTER KitlTim-iN-C«i*r..- Ifrtuy K. I.mr PaKMMCNT Roy IC. l.mwit pear TIME-Reader: I MANAGING EDITOR Koy Alriandrr EXPERIENCE [Mid off last week fighting.his dispatches through already ASSISTANT MANAGING ErXTOR *— for TIME. CORRESI'ONDENT JOHN overtaxed cable offices—all. the while ffrtto Kurrl.rtiiKcr DEAL of the Washington Bureau is an sustaining himself on such peppery old hand at covcrinp th" Department Indonesian fare as meat with chili. -SENIOR fCMTORS T-ouf* Hanks. Kolurt W. Boy.I Jr.. Krfwwnl (>. Off, of State. As a result, ften DOS an-" potatoes with, chili and ferns jwith 1 nomas (.tilluh, Ilrnry Anutol* (.irunwald. ROIM-M noUnccd thai AS­ chili, washed down with a cl'Vylngly Muniiiiitf, ilillis Mills, John l W»>fiir. Commit I't-vkham, Josrpft Purn-ll, John Walker, Max Ways. SISTANT SECRETARY sweet cider. , ; i . I. j ASSOCIATE EDITORS •WALTER S. Ron- pougUs Auohirtcloss, A. T. Hakri. Hmoc Burton }t„ ! ti.lUrt Cam. Kdw-iti Coppa Ilrnry Bradfonl Durruch. Jr.. ERTS'QN and AD­ ASSOCIATE EDITOR OSBORS EL- Alt-xarulri blkHj Onhorn Elliott, William 1'"orbin. Mux MIRAL ARTHUR W. • "Men, Barker T. Hartshorn. Kofer H. Hewlett, jatnc* C. ** JLIOTT'S most notable previous excur­ Kronh. Louis Kronrnlx-rir^r, Jonathan Norton Leonard. RADFORD were hur­ sion into the world of fetninine fashion jKichufil OtiUhan, Jr.. Margaret Quimhy. C'..nrll ' Sollx'rg. Walter Stockly. rying to Formosa can hardly be said to have helped him I for routine consul­ as lie wrote this week's cover story (his CONTRIBUTING EDUOR5 tation';. Heal raised 14th 1 on (he U.S..'s famed Fashion Harriet Bachmau, Godfrey KIIIIHICII. William Itowrn, IVtrr Bramtrun, • Kodney Camplx*!!, Jame« Can mm. skeptical eyebrows Designer CLAIRE MCCARDELL. Champ (lark. Alton U (lingm. Kirrmru M. Clurman, Grorgr Daniel*, (irortr q> farvalho. NigH Omnia, and went to work. One tall day Bernard Kriaell. Mmon fJauNn. tftctun (.ninth*, Alan He phoned Rob­ three years ago. Hall, Sum IIUI[MT. Carter Harman, Charles I'. Jaekaoit, Cranston J one*, Atvin M, Joacphy. Jr.. Thecxiorr K. ertson, who refused Editor Elliott im­ k'alem. Ii»ir l-ee, (iirattf I-ove, Ilrnry LucC III, IVler Mathews, Rotwrt McLaughlin. Richard Murphy, Ihm *o let him accompany him to the air­ pulsively stepped Murray, Manm O'Neill. ROIKTI Parker. K tenant Sea- tnon, Kafarl Stf»ntx-rg, Murk Vlattniak. George Voigt. port. Rushing to the airport alone, into a Marjison ART DIRECTOR Meal questioned DOS men waiting to Avenue shop and Michael!J. Phiiiipa see the party off. They were noncom­ bought his wife EDITORIAI RESEARCHERS , mittal. But Beal. circulating and ask-' Deirdre a size 10 Virginia Adams. Mary Ann Ann. Bemadine lierrheidr, in« circumspect questions, picked up dress l.for $40. It Harriet Ben Kira, Helen Scott Bennett. Virgin** LimUley Bennett. Dorothea Bouritr. Amelia Kiddirk tlrrnt. Klsie the clue that sent him tacinp hack into was. he recalls, a Ann Brown, Barbara Brunrlage, Murjone Burns. Nancy McD. Chase, Lilian Davidson, Ka telle Derabeck, Cecilia the maze of Washington officialdom. black I taffeta with I. Dempster. Joan Dye. Lenora Kmiier, Shirley Eata*. hrook Marcrlle Harrington, Dorothy rerenbattgh, .-1/ week's end, he was the only puffy short sleeves, Blanche Kinn. Rosemary L. Frank. Mary Klizahrth Fremd. Judith Krietlberg, 'Marie Ka'hryn Gibbons, newsman in Washington ii'lm IHHI a full skirt and Brrta Golil. Dor thru L. Grine. Jean Gutheim. Joyce Habe-r. Dorothy Stavin Haystead. Harriet Hrck, Lor- uncovered the strinelike belt. raine Hill. Jean Horn beck. Bonnie Claire llowells, Helen urgent Newlin Kaleni. Quinera Santa King, Anne Dirkcs Kobor, reason lor the sttdden Rob At a party last Ilelga Kohl. Vera Kovaraky, K. Eleanor* Luriten, Mar'iit rrtsoii- Gauge? l.e«lig, Mary'Ellen Lukas, J_anr Meyerhoff, Sylvu Radlo'd trip, reported in NA­ week, Deirdie El­ Crane Myers, /can Niesiey, Amelia North, Dena I'aviu. Amir < i, Peyton, Mary Baylor Reinhurt. DajtUta Re**ke- TIONAL AFFAIRS' Grim Deeds, liott happened to DEIRDRE ELLIOTT Birk. I >nnlie Mr-ad ft van, Marion Hollander Samfera, Ruth Nl\-a. M. Ava Smith, l-'raiirra Stevrnwon, Jean wear .the same Sul/U rgrr. Vt Ying Sung, Kleanor latum, Mary Vana- maii, 'aula von Haimberger. Marilyn Weliemeyer, Joan Y ACROSS the Avorid. another TIME black taffeta, still as dashing and smart Wharton, lilsbelli Jean Wright. ** veteran. D WIGHT MARTIN, who has as ever. After_ weeks' of looking at ranged the Far Fast since 1948, thread­ Claire McCardell "creations, interview­ U.S. AND CANADIAN NEWS SERVICE ed through a maze of a different kind ing Claire McCardell about her dress­ Lawrence I.aytmume (Chid of Correapotulenta), Ben Williamson, GraCe Brynolaon. Arthur VV. VVnite. to report the Bandung conference sto­ es, dreaming about them and finally Jt«rrauf~- W.*ftHiNCT(JK: James Shepley. Jamrn Atwater. John Beat, Walter E6ennett. Marshall 'Bcrger Clay Blair ry. Upset at Bandung (see FOREICN writing about them. Elliott stared at. Jr., George B. BooknJan. Martha Bucknell, Kawin l)arby, Jerry Hannilin, Tort Laml>rrt. James L. McConaughy XEWS). "'The principal feature of any his wife and suddenly exclaimed :"Hey jr., Alyce Moran, Philip Payne. John L. Ste«-!e. James Trultt. CHICAGO: Sam Welles. T* Ccorg* Harris. Jr»»e L. international conference is confusion." —that's a Claire McCardell dress I" Minihaum. Kirharri W. Boeth. L<onald S. ("onnery, Ruth ' Mrhrtrns. I^>«» ANCKLKt: Barron Bealioar, Terry Colmau. he cabled. Bandung was no exception. "Yes, dear," said his wife in that Kara'Goodman. John Koflend, James Murray. Kdwiv Keea. DaTuoir: r-red Collins, Mark Sullivan. ATLANTA: - Martin worked day and night, fathom­ pointedly, patient .way Women often William Holland, Michael Demarrst. Boan»M: William Johnaon. KAUAV Frank McCulloch, HoV«TON: Witlard ing the multilingual confusion, and have. , C. KappJeye Jr. BKNVKI; Kd Ogle. Robert Ajrmian. SAN FftAMCtaCu; Richard Pollard, Charles Mnhr. Kot>rrt ' man, Robert Shnayeraoii. Cordially yours, OTTAWA: Srrrell Hillman. Harry Johnston. MoNraHAL: TByron W. Riggun. TOKONTO: Robert W. Glasgow. FOREIGN NEWS SERVICE M. ^-tXve-v^, Manfred <W>ttfHed (Chief of Correspondent*), John Boylr. Fredrrick Gruln, Clara Apttlegate. 11 HnrtaMi— ly>»aw>N: Andrew Laguerre, Honor Ilnlfotir, J .ester Bernstein, Joe David Brown, Joan Hruce, Rotwri* I.ubar, Richard Weekea. PASUS: Frank Wrhite, George hi Al*eM, Stanley Karnow. Fred Klein, William Mcllalc. HOMK: Jamra Bell, Denis Kodor. Ramelle MaCoy. Hoxa: Robert Neville. Robert C. Christopher. William KIMIM- Vt:M. MADBIP: Tlioinaa Doner. JiiHARNsssunt,; J^dward f lughra. BaiaUT; Keith Wh-^-ler. Navv DKLHI: Jamea Burke, Alexander Campbell, A<:hal Rangnswannl. SIMCA- roaa: Uwight Mirtm, John M. Mecklin. TOKYO: Curtis INDEX Prendergaat, J a trie* I.. Greenhrld. Maxim ClfY: Dftvid Mlchantaon. Rafael Delsar|o Uoaaftp. GUATEMALA CITV: Harvey Koaenhouar. KiojU)UKR JANKIBU:*lAHKiao: Pi-Pirr* o SetNtriti. Covet Story 85 .Judgments &. 'Prophecies 25 BUENOS Aiaaa*;: Joh*~ n Dowling. Art.. .....80 Letters ,...4 People ..40 fnjiusriER Books ...104 James A. Linen Medicine ....71 Press.. ••:•. ."«J7 Business 84 ADVERTISINC' CHRfCTOR Milestones 36 Radio & TV i.. i. 66 John MrLalchle Cinema.........98 Miscellany 112. Religion .....,.., 52 Education 92 Copytuht: Tina is copyrighted 1955 by TIMS: Inc. under Music 42 Science ...50 International Copyright Convention. At) rtghta reaervnl Foreign News 26 National Affairs.. 19 Sport.... under Pan American Copyright Convention. 62 Hemisphere... ..36 Theater..." 78 TJs# A$*o<t<u*d Pr*$t Is>*rlustvely entitled to the use for republication of the Local ttleg-raphh- and cable nrws pub­ lished herein, originated by Tiua. The Weekly Newa- magatine or obtained (mm Th* A nn, kaitd I'rtu, TlMe,.MAY 2, ^95S 15 . - • • ' COOL' AND COMFORTABLE, six young models surround styles: two bathing suits, a beach dress, two cocktail dresse.-, Designer, McCaidell, showing a collection of,her, 1955 summer an evening gown. All have the casual, functional American Look. Atlanta's J. P. Allen knew exactly what in common: a style that has'come to be FASHION she wanted: "Casual clothes with a gay known the world over as the American The American Look feeling." Look. , • (See Cover) Comfortable & Colorful. In 1955. more The Meaning of Elegance. The Ameri­ It was the end of.April, and as the soft than ever before, U.S. summer clothes are can Look has developed almost unnoticed air turned the land.;green. American worn- gay and casual. There are Orion sweaters, by the women who wear it. "Elegant dress." •en were suddenlytaware of a truth that dresses in Dacron. nylon and other wonder wrote Economist Thorstein Veblen in if>9Q bursts upon them every spring: Summer fabrics in every color. There are dresses of in The Theory of the Leisure Class, "serves was at hand, and they did'not have a thing ' wispy silk and tough denims, terry-cloth its purpose of elegance not^bnly in that it to wear. Therefore* they were out in force ' shirts, and shorts in everything from calf­ is expensive but also because it is the in­ S ! in stores last week in search of the cool— skin to velvet. Toreador pants, once worn signia of leisure." But in the U.S., "'.he and new—clothes to make the hot weather' only by the brave (and beautiful I. are as meaning of elegance has changed as much bearable. Tall girls looked for dresses that common as |*>da!-pushers and Levi's. One as the meaning of leisure. It is a leisure of would make them seem shorter; short girls big 1955 craze: sweater-like cotton knits action—barbecue parties in the backyard, wanted to look taller. The plump wanted in everything from beach robes to low- motor trips along country roads and across eye-foolers that would seem to take off priced cocktail dresses.
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