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Starting on the East Coast Story and Photos by Robert Fisher

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Starting on the East Coast Story and Photos by Robert Fisher destinations Report from the Road, Part One: Starting on the East Coast Story and photos by Robert Fisher ’m a photographer, documentary filmmaker and EcoDiesel because of the towing capacity and the writer who sold my house in May 2019 and began smaller, more fuel-efficient diesel engine. To get the preparations for a year-long, coast-to-coast-to-coast same towing power in other trucks would have meant Itrek around Canada. The goal is to go as far east, west choosing a bigger, V8 engine. The diesel produces and north as possible by road, visiting all 10 provinces, cleaner emissions than a gas engine, which is a plus the Yukon Territory and the Northwest Territories; since one of the film projects I’m working on is about Nunavut isn’t included because you can’t get there by climate change. The truck also has a 120V outlet in road. This is the first in a four-part series of stories the cab that charges camera batteries, which is ideal from the road in the course of this adventure. for a photographer. My research began long before May. In late 2018, You may be wondering how someone can afford I started looking into trailers, tow vehicles, routes, to take a year off to travel the country. Being self-em- climates and how I could manage a year in a trailer. ployed definitely helps; being single and without kids I decided on a 2019 Outdoors RV Mountain Series also makes a big difference. But this trek is not just a 20SK, and my tow vehicle is a 2016 Dodge Ram 1500 long vacation; I’m also working on two documentary EcoDiesel. Trailer choices were limited because there film projects, writing and doing a lot of photography. are few so-called four-season trailers available; others I considered were the Northwoods Arctic Fox line and THE ADVENTURE BEGINS Lance trailers. Ultimately, I went with the ORV be- The only place to get the trailer I wanted was in Brit- cause it came with some features that were options on ish Columbia. After driving out there and back in late other trailers, specifically a solar panel and integrated July and early August, I was back in Ontario (where generator. I added a second solar panel and installed I’m based), and after several delays, the trek officially an inverter to have 120V AC power without running began on October 4 when I got to New Brunswick. the generator. New Brunswick is a beautiful province, and getting Truck choices are more varied. I chose the Ram there for the fall colours was that much better. Autumn in 22 CANADIAN RVING | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 Nearly full moon rising over Miscou Island Lighthouse the northern part of the province, before Thanksgiving, A QUEST was spectacular – with brighter colours than anything we About 20 years ago, I began a project to photograph have seen in southern Ontario for years. and document all of the remaining lighthouses in Because I hadn’t been to the province before, I didn’t Canada. Completing this project was one of the things know that French is the primary language in much I hoped to do on this trip. Unfortunately, I discovered of northern New Brunswick. The Acadian identity is fairly early that this was not going to be possible. One very strong here, as it is in several parts of Nova Scotia, reason is that there has been so much construction in too. My French? Not so good. “Je m’excuse mais mon previously undeveloped areas that many of the light- français est très faible” (I’m sorry but my French is very houses are now on private property. Another reason is weak), and “Votre anglais est plus meilleur que mon that the roads leading to many of the lighthouses are français” (your English is much better than my French), not navigable pulling a trailer. (Amateur tip: If you became my two get-out-of-jail-free cards. An interview want to practice backing up, take your trailer onto I did for one of my film projects was conducted in roads you really shouldn’t.) Rather than try to photo- French; despite my practice, the interview subject still graph all of the lighthouses, I decided to do many of got a chuckle from my stumbled and bumbled attempts. the ones I could get to and concentrate on the more I’m happy to say I was only mocked once, though – by a historically important and famous ones. counter worker at McDonald’s. One of these is at the very northern tip of New Something else that has been (not really) fun early on Brunswick on Miscou Island. It’s a beautiful spot, and I is Google Maps driving directions. Fun isn’t the right came back here a few different nights. word, but this is a family-friendly publication. Google On the drive to the lighthouse, you pass a wonderful doesn’t know you’re hauling a 6,500+-lb. trailer, so re- feature of autumn in New Brunswick. The province is peated exhortations to “make a U-turn” whenever you replete with peat bogs covered by low-growing plants miss a turnoff begin to grate on your nerves after a while that turn a brilliant red in fall. It was not possible to – after about 30 seconds, really. Google also doesn’t take park with the trailer at the bogs on Miscou Island, but you on the best roads, just the fastest route. This can Kouchibouguac National Park has a trail through a mean some pretty interesting dirt roads. It didn’t take bog that’s stunning. At the end of the trail is a little sit- long to figure out the New Brunswick road number- ting area where you can take in the surroundings, have ing scheme, though; the higher the number, the worse a picnic, or just rest before heading back. the road. Single- and double-digit roads are great. Low Kouchibouguac NP was one of the few camp- triple-digit roads are fine. As for the high triple-digits, grounds open in October. Most of the private camp- the 700 and 900 roads? We’re pretty much talking fur grounds and all of the provincial campgrounds closed trade-era horse-drawn carriage spine busters. very early, at the end of September. The Kiwanis JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 | CANADIAN RVING 23 La Tourbière bog in Kouchibouguac National Park at sunset campground in Saint Andrews was open until Thanks- and full nightfall when stars were visible, I sat in the giving Monday, and All Done RV Camping, a short truck waiting. Have you heard of the phrase the wind drive north of Sussex, was open even later. To find whistling through the wires? On this night the tune the places to stay in the off-season, as well as propane wind was singing was eerie and haunting. The truck and dump stations, I’m using iOverlandr; it’s a popu- rocked, and not gently – rather a jerking, violent back- lar, crowd-sourced app for both Apple and Android and-forth that was a little unsettling. platforms, where campers contribute information on a whole host of things from formal and informal camp- grounds, to propane filling locations, dump locations, water filling places and others. The last established campground I was able to stay at on the mainland was Fundy National Park toward the northern end of the Bay of Fundy. I also managed to find the Castalia Marsh Retreat on Grand Manan Island open late in the month – no water, just electric- ity. For an overnight stay, that was fine. The owner, who’s definitely a character, has chickens and sells free- range eggs, which are spectacular (the eggs, that is – I didn’t get to try a chicken). The road into Cape Enrage is steep and winding. It would be a lot of fun in a little two-seater with a manual transmission. In a truck pulling a 6,500-lb. travel trailer? Less so, which is why I was glad to be able to leave the trailer at Fundy NP. Being able to drop the trailer and drive around makes getting into some places much easier. When you get to the top of the cliffs at Cape Enrage, you know immediately how it got its name. The water roils around the cape and on this particular night, was driven even more by hellacious winds. As I stood on a viewing platform, I had to grab my tripod a few times to keep it from being blown over. Between sunset The Milky Way over Cape Enrage Lighthouse 24 CANADIAN RVING | JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 The Wicked Winds of the East Having spent a month in New Brunswick, I think I’m Already, there have been a few times when safe in saying that it is quite RV friendly. Campgrounds winds have been more than a little uncom- are open later in the season, there are lots of places to fill fortable in this adventure. Wind is something propane tanks and lots of dump stations. that plays havoc with trailers. It makes driving Nova Scotia is a bit of a different story. After spend- difficult and exacerbates dreaded sway. When ing nearly a month there, I would say that it is not nearly parked it can rock the trailer quite violently, as RV friendly as New Brunswick – fewer places to fill making sleeping uncomfortable. up on propane, fewer places to dump waste tanks, fewer places to fill fresh water tanks. And fewer people willing to accommodate RVers than in New Brunswick.
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