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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Nova Scotia, New Brunswick & Prince Edward Island Newfoundland & Labrador p181 Prince Edward New Island Brunswick p153 p113 Nova Scotia p52 Oliver Berry, Adam Karlin, Korina Miller PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to Nova Scotia, NOVA SCOTIA . 52 Mt Carleton New Brunswick & Prince Provincial Park Edward Island . 4 Halifax . 56 & the Tobique Valley . 121 Regional Map . 6 Around Halifax . 71 Western Fundy Shore . 123 Nova Scotia, Dartmouth . 71 St Stephen . 123 New Brunswick & Peggy’s Cove . 72 St Andrews Prince Edward Island’s South Shore . 73 Top 15 . 8 By-The-Sea . 124 Chester . 73 Need to Know . 18 Fundy Isles . 127 Mahone Bay . 74 If You Like . 20 Deer Island . 127 Lunenburg . 75 Month by Month . 23 Campobello Island . 128 Liverpool . 79 Itineraries . 26 Grand Manan Island . 132 Kejimkujik National Saint John . 134 Outdoor Activities . 31 Park . 80 Eastern Fundy Shore . 138 Travel with Children . 40 Shelburne . 81 St Martins . 138 Eat & Drink Acadian Shores . 82 Like a Local . 43 Fundy National Park . 138 Yarmouth . 83 Regions at a Glance . 49 Alma . 140 French Shore . 84 Southeastern New Annapolis Valley . 86 Brunswick . 141 LASZLO PODOR/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES PODOR/GETTY LASZLO Digby . 86 Moncton . 141 Long Island & Sackville . 145 Brier Island . 87 Northumberland Annapolis Royal . 88 Shore . 146 Wolfville & Grand Pré . 90 Shediac . 146 Central Nova Scotia . 93 Bouctouche . 147 Parrsboro . .. 93 Kouchibouguac Advocate Harbour . 95 National Park . 148 Sunrise Trail . 96 Northeastern New Tatamagouche . 96 Brunswick . 150 BALD EAGLE, Pictou . 97 Caraquet . 150 SHUBENACADIE P93 Antigonish . 98 Bathurst . 151 Cape Breton Island . 99 Campbellton . 152 Ceilidh Trail . 100 JULIE DESHAIES/SHUTTERSTOCK © JULIE DESHAIES/SHUTTERSTOCK Cabot Trail . 101 PRINCE EDWARD Baddeck . 106 ISLAND . 153 Sydney & Charlottetown . 157 North Sydney . 108 Eastern Prince Edward Island . 163 Eastern Shore . 110 Wood Islands . 163 Montague & NEW BRUNSWICK . 113 Georgetown . 164 Fredericton . 115 Souris & Around . 165 Upper St John St Peter’s Bay to FIDDLEHEADS P44 River Valley . 120 Mt Stewart . 167 Contents UNDERSTAND Central Prince Gros Morne Nova Scotia, New Edward Island . 167 National Park . 216 Brunswick & Prince Victoria . 167 Port au Choix . 219 Edward Island Today . 236 Prince Edward L’Anse aux Meadows History . 238 Island National Park . 168 & Around . 219 Maritimes Music . 245 Brackley Beach . 169 St Anthony . 222 Atlantic Rustico & Western Canadian Art . 249 North Rustico . 169 Newfoundland . 223 Landscapes & New Glasgow . 172 Corner Brook . 223 Wildlife . 253 New London . 173 Blomidon Mountains . 224 Kensington . 176 Port au Port Peninsula . 225 SURVIVAL Cavendish . 176 Port aux Basques . .. 226 GUIDE Western Prince Cape Ray . 227 Edward Island . 177 South Coast . 227 Directory A–Z . 260 Summerside . 177 Killick Coast . 227 Transportation . 269 Tyne Valley . .. 180 Labrador . 228 Language . 274 Labrador Straits . 228 Index . 281 NEWFOUNDLAND & Central Labrador . 231 Map Legend . 287 LABRADOR . 181 Labrador West . 233 St John’s . 184 Avalon Peninsula . 197 Southeastern Avalon Peninsula . 197 Baccalieu Trail . 201 Cape Shore . 202 Eastern Newfoundland . 203 Trinity . 203 Bonavista . 205 Burin Peninsula . 207 St-Pierre & Miquelon . 208 Central SPECIAL Newfoundland . 210 FEATURES Gander . 210 Outdoor Activities . 31 Twillingate Island & Travel with Children . 40 New World Island . 210 Eat & Drink Fogo Island & Like a Local . .. 43 Change Islands . 212 Maritimes Music . 245 Central South Coast . 214 Atlantic New-Wes-Valley . 215 Canadian Art . .. 249 Northern Peninsula . 215 Landscapes & Wildlife . 253 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 26 Itineraries NEW PEI BRUNSWICK Parrsboro É É •# Advocate •# Harbour •# É Maitland •# Grand Pré Wolfville •# NOVA SCOTIA Maine Annapolis É National (U S A) Royal Historic Site •# Peggy’s •#É Halifax Cove É Mahone •# •#•# Prospect Kejimkujik Bay •# ÷# É National Park Lunenburg AT L A N T I C O C E A N ÷#Kejimkujik Seaside Adjunct 1 WEEK Nova Scotia Loop This compact itinerary showcases the historic and natural diversity within easy reach of Halifax. Soak up some music and culture in Halifax, then travel to nearby Peggy’s Cove and jostle for position to snap the most photographed lighthouse in the world. Don’t forget your sunscreen in Mahone Bay, where the sun shines on great craft shopping and sea kayaking. Move on slightly south to Lunenburg, a World Heritage site known for its colorful boxy buildings and Bluenose schooner. The Kejimkujik National Park of- fers a range of terrain from its coastal beaches (in the section of park known as the Keji Seaside Adjunct) to inland rivers, which are the perfect spot to float a canoe and drift through the woods. Cross the province to Annapolis Royal to stay at a heritage B&B; explore its fort by day and graveyard by night. The next day visit the wineries around the fabulous college town of Wolfville and the Grand Pré National Historic site, before stopping to down a meal at a fine vineyard restaurant. Lastly, explore the Fundy coast around Parrsboro and Advocate Harbour, or go to Maitland to get right in and raft the tidal bore. From here you can easily continue on to PEI, or return to Halifax. 27 L'Anse aux Meadows LABRADOR •# National Historic Site É Gros Morne PLAN YOUR TRIP National Park ÷# NEWFOUNDLAND QUÉBEC Port aux É Basques •# f# Pleasant Bay•# Cape Breton Highlands IT NEW ÷# National Park I BRUNSWICK Chéticamp •# É NERAR •# Glace Bay PEI Baddeck •# •# Louisbourg É Maine Guysborough•# I (U S A) Sherbrooke AT L A N T I C ES •# O C E A N ÷# Taylor Head •# É Halifax •#•# Provincial Park NOVA Lawrencetown SCOTIA Beach •# 2 WEEKS Cabot & Viking Trails Experience the living world at its most magnificent and explore the juxtaposing cultures that have shaped eastern Canada in this grand northerly tour, best suited to those who love hiking, wildlife and photography. Spend a couple days in Halifax enjoying lively bars and a nonstop music scene, then hit the road up the Atlantic Coast. Stop for a chilly surf at Lawrencetown Beach or a hike through pine forest to a spectacular white-sand beach at Taylor Head Provin- cial Park. Visit the historical village at Sherbrooke then cut up Hwy 7 for a shortcut to Cape Breton Island. Just after arriving on Cape Breton from the causeway, veer left toward Hwy 30 and stop in at one of the many ceilidh music gatherings along this route. Hook up with the Cabot Trail at Chéticamp, a deeply Acadian town. Next you can watch whales or chant with monks at the Tibetan monastery in Pleasant Bay and look for moose and nesting bald eagles in Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Get your art fix at the studios dotted along the last section of the trail before heading over to Bad- deck to learn everything you ever wanted to know about Alexander Graham Bell at the town’s fabulous museum. From here take a jaunt east to Louisbourg to visit the mas- sive, windy restored French Fort, complete with costumed thespians and activities to take you back to the 18th century. Stop at the Cape Breton Miners’ Museum in Glace Bay before arriving in industrial North Sydney for the ferry to Newfoundland. It’s a six-hour sail over the sometimes rough swell of the Cabot Strait to Port aux Basques. Alight and drive north to Gros Morne National Park, rich with mountain hikes, sea-kayaking tours, fjords and weird rock formations. Take the Viking Trail from here to its awe-inspiring endpoint: L’Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site, North America’s first settlement. Leif Erikson and his Viking pals homesteaded the place 1000 years ago, and it probably looked much the same then as it does now. After coming all this way, you too will feel like an Atlantic explorer. 28 NEW BRUNSWICK PEI Cape PLAN YOUR TRIP Enrage Hopewell É Fundy Trail Rocks Fundy •# Parkway National •# Advocate Park ÷# •# Joggins Saint Harbour Maine Irving •# John É •# (U S A) Nature •# •# É É Park •# St Martins •# Parrsboro •# Deer É ÷# Wolfville Maitland É B a y o f •# Island •# Campobello F u n d y É IT •# NOVA SCOTIA Lubec •# Island f# Cape D'Or I •# Lighthouse NERAR Digby•# Annapolis Long Island •# Royal I ES AT L A N T I C O C E A N 10 DAYS Bay of Fundy Tidal Tour Experience the dramatic Fundy tides and wildlife on this loop that can be tackled from Maine, USA. Cross the bridge to Campobello Island, the childhood home of 32nd US president Franklin D Roosevelt, from Lubec, Maine, then visit Roosevelt’s home, which is now a fascinating museum. The next day take the car ferry to fisher-funky Deer Island to check out Old Sow, the world’s second-largest natural tidal whirlpool, before boarding another ferry that shuttles you to the mainland. Drive north to gritty yet cosmopolitan Saint John to fill up on fine dining, and warm up your hiking boots at Irving Nature Park the following day to see hundreds of birds and possibly seals. Follow the coast as far as St Martins – with an optional detour to the Fundy Trail Parkway if you wish to break in your hiking boots – then head north towards Sussex, gateway to the wilds of Fundy National Park and its extensive coastal trails. Continue north to Cape Enrage to take a tour of the lighthouse, and sea kayak or rappel down the rock cliffs that meet the rise and fall of the powerful tides. Move on to a day trip to the bizarre Hopewell Rocks formations, a must-see –but expect hundreds of visitors. Now it’s time to change provinces. Drive across the border to Nova Scotia and down to Joggins to see the Unesco World Heritage fossil cliffs. Continue along driftwood-strewn Chignecto Bay to stop for lunch in Advocate Harbour, then move onto Parrsboro via the Cape D’Or Lighthouse, to look for semiprecious stones on the beach and stay the night.
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