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Nova Scotia, New Brunswick & Prince Edward Island 5

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Nova Scotia, &

Newfoundland & p181

Prince Edward New Island Brunswick p153 p113 p52

Oliver Berry, Adam Karlin, Korina Miller PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to Nova Scotia, NOVA SCOTIA. . . . . 52 Mt Carleton New Brunswick & Prince Provincial Park Edward Island...... 4 Halifax...... 56 & the Tobique Valley . . . . 121 Regional Map ...... 6 Around Halifax...... 71 Western Fundy Shore. . . . 123 Nova Scotia, Dartmouth...... 71 St Stephen ...... 123 New Brunswick & Peggy’s Cove...... 72 St Andrews Prince Edward Island’s South Shore ...... 73 Top 15...... 8 By-The-Sea ...... 124 Chester ...... 73 Need to Know...... 18 Fundy Isles ...... 127 Mahone Bay ...... 74 If You Like ...... 20 Deer Island ...... 127 Lunenburg...... 75 Month by Month. . . . . 23 . . . . . 128 Liverpool...... 79 Itineraries ...... 26 Island . . . . 132 Kejimkujik National Saint John...... 134 Outdoor Activities. . . . 31 Park ...... 80 Eastern Fundy Shore. . . . 138 Travel with Children. . . . 40 Shelburne ...... 81 St Martins...... 138 Eat & Drink Acadian Shores...... 82 Like a Local...... 43 . . . . 138 Yarmouth...... 83 Regions at a Glance. . . . 49 Alma...... 140 French Shore...... 84 Southeastern New . . . . . 86 Brunswick...... 141

LASZLO PODOR/GETTY IMAGES © Digby ...... 86 ...... 141 Long Island & Sackville...... 145 Brier Island...... 87 Northumberland ...... 88 Shore ...... 146 & Grand Pré . . . . 90 ...... 146 Central Nova Scotia. . . . 93 ...... 147 ...... 93 Kouchibouguac Advocate Harbour...... 95 National Park ...... 148 Sunrise Trail ...... 96 Northeastern New ...... 96 Brunswick...... 150 BALD EAGLE, ...... 97 ...... 150 SHUBENACADIE P93 Antigonish...... 98 Bathurst...... 151 . . . . 99 Campbellton...... 152 ...... 100 JULIEDESHAIES/SHUTTERSTOCK © ...... 101 PRINCE EDWARD ...... 106 ISLAND ...... 153 Sydney & Charlottetown...... 157 North Sydney...... 108 Eastern Prince Edward Island...... 163 Eastern Shore...... 110 Wood Islands...... 163 Montague & NEW BRUNSWICK. . . 113 Georgetown...... 164 ...... 115 Souris & Around...... 165 Upper St John St Peter’s Bay to FIDDLEHEADS P44 River Valley...... 120 Mt Stewart...... 167 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Central Prince Gros Morne Nova Scotia, New Edward Island...... 167 National Park ...... 216 Brunswick & Prince Victoria...... 167 Port au Choix ...... 219 Edward Island Today. . . . 236 Prince Edward L’Anse aux Meadows History...... 238 Island National Park . . . . 168 & Around...... 219 Maritimes Music. . . . . 245 Brackley Beach...... 169 St Anthony ...... 222 Atlantic Rustico & Western Canadian Art...... 249 North Rustico...... 169 ...... 223 Landscapes & New Glasgow...... 172 Corner Brook ...... 223 Wildlife...... 253 New London ...... 173 Blomidon Mountains. . . . 224 Kensington ...... 176 Port au Port Peninsula. . . 225 SURVIVAL Cavendish...... 176 Port aux Basques...... 226 GUIDE Western Prince ...... 227 Edward Island...... 177 South Coast ...... 227 Directory A–Z...... 260 Summerside...... 177 Killick Coast ...... 227 Transportation . . . . . 269 Tyne Valley...... 180 Labrador ...... 228 Language...... 274 Labrador Straits...... 228 Index...... 281 NEWFOUNDLAND & Central Labrador. . . . . 231 Map Legend...... 287 LABRADOR. . . . . 181 Labrador West ...... 233 St John’s ...... 184 Avalon Peninsula . . . . 197 Southeastern Avalon Peninsula...... 197 Baccalieu Trail...... 201 Cape Shore...... 202 Eastern Newfoundland...... 203 Trinity...... 203 Bonavista...... 205 Burin Peninsula . . . . . 207 St-Pierre & Miquelon ...... 208 Central SPECIAL Newfoundland...... 210 FEATURES Gander...... 210 Outdoor Activities. . . . 31 Island & Travel with Children. . . . 40 New World Island. . . . . 210 Eat & Drink Fogo Island & Like a Local...... 43 Change Islands...... 212 Maritimes Music . . . . . 245 Central South Coast . . . . 214 Atlantic New-Wes-Valley...... 215 Canadian Art...... 249 Northern Peninsula. . . 215 Landscapes & Wildlife...... 253 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 26

Itineraries

NEW PEI BRUNSWICK

Parrsboro É É •# Advocate •# Harbour •# É Maitland •# Grand Pré Wolfville •# NOVA SCOTIA Maine Annapolis É National (U S A) Royal Historic Site •#

Peggy’s •#É Halifax Cove É Mahone •# •#•# Prospect

Kejimkujik Bay •# ÷# É National Park Lunenburg AT L A N T I C O C E A N

÷#Kejimkujik Seaside Adjunct

1 WEEK Nova Scotia Loop

This compact itinerary showcases the historic and natural diversity within easy reach of Halifax. Soak up some music and culture in Halifax, then travel to nearby Peggy’s Cove and jostle for position to snap the most photographed in the world. Don’t forget your sunscreen in Mahone Bay, where the sun shines on great craft shopping and sea kayaking. Move on slightly south to Lunenburg, a World Heritage site known for its colorful boxy buildings and Bluenose schooner. The of- fers a range of terrain from its coastal beaches (in the section of park known as the Keji Seaside Adjunct) to inland rivers, which are the perfect spot to float a canoe and drift through the woods. Cross the province to Annapolis Royal to stay at a heritage B&B; explore its fort by day and graveyard by night. The next day visit the wineries around the fabulous college town of Wolfville and the Grand Pré National Historic site, before stopping to down a meal at a fine vineyard restaurant. Lastly, explore the Fundy coast around Parrsboro and Advocate Harbour, or go to Maitland to get right in and raft the tidal bore. From here you can easily continue on to PEI, or return to Halifax. 27

L'Anse aux Meadows LABRADOR •# National Historic Site

É

Gros Morne TRIP YOUR PLAN National Park ÷# NEWFOUNDLAND

QUÉBEC Port aux É Basques •# f# Pleasant Bay•# Cape Breton Highlands It NEW ÷# National Park i nerar BRUNSWICK Chéticamp •# É •# Glace Bay PEI Baddeck •# •#

Louisbourg É Maine Guysborough•# (U S A) Sherbrooke i es •# ÷# Taylor Head •# É Halifax •#•# Provincial Park NOVA Lawrencetown SCOTIA Beach •#

2 WEEKS Cabot & Viking Trails

Experience the living world at its most magnificent and explore the juxtaposing cultures that have shaped eastern in this grand northerly tour, best suited to those who love hiking, wildlife and photography. Spend a couple days in Halifax enjoying lively bars and a nonstop music scene, then hit the road up the Atlantic Coast. Stop for a chilly surf at Lawrencetown Beach or a hike through pine forest to a spectacular white-sand beach at Taylor Head Provin- cial Park. Visit the historical village at Sherbrooke then cut up Hwy 7 for a shortcut to Cape Breton Island. Just after arriving on Cape Breton from the causeway, veer left toward Hwy 30 and stop in at one of the many ceilidh music gatherings along this route. Hook up with the Cabot Trail at Chéticamp, a deeply Acadian town. Next you can watch whales or chant with monks at the Tibetan monastery in Pleasant Bay and look for moose and nesting bald eagles in Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Get your art fix at the studios dotted along the last section of the trail before heading over to Bad- deck to learn everything you ever wanted to know about Alexander Graham Bell at the town’s fabulous museum. From here take a jaunt east to Louisbourg to visit the mas- sive, windy restored French Fort, complete with costumed thespians and activities to take you back to the 18th century. Stop at the Cape Breton Miners’ Museum in Glace Bay before arriving in industrial North Sydney for the ferry to Newfoundland. It’s a six-hour sail over the sometimes rough swell of the Cabot Strait to Port aux Basques. Alight and drive north to , rich with mountain hikes, sea-kayaking tours, fjords and weird rock formations. Take the Viking Trail from here to its awe-inspiring endpoint: L’Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site, ’s first settlement. Leif Erikson and his Viking pals homesteaded the place 1000 years ago, and it probably looked much the same then as it does now. After coming all this way, you too will feel like an Atlantic explorer. 28

ne rnsI eI Cape PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Enrage Hopewell É Fundy Trail Rocks Fundy •# Parkway National •# Advocate Park ÷# •# Joggins Saint Harbour Irving •#

John É •#

s a Nature •# •# É É Park •# St Martins •# Parrsboro •# Deer É ÷# Wolfville Maitland

É B o •# Island •# Campobello u n É

It •# na stIa Lubec •# Island f# Cape D'Or i nerar •# Lighthouse Digby•# Annapolis Long Island •# Royal

i es

10 DAYS Tidal Tour

Experience the dramatic Fundy tides and wildlife on this loop that can be tackled from Maine, USA. Cross the bridge to Campobello Island, the childhood home of 32nd US president Franklin D Roosevelt, from Lubec, Maine, then visit Roosevelt’s home, which is now a fascinating museum. The next day take the car ferry to fisher-funky Deer Island to check out Old Sow, the world’s second-largest natural tidal whirlpool, before boarding another ferry that shuttles you to the mainland. Drive north to gritty yet cosmopolitan Saint John to fill up on fine dining, and warm up your hiking boots at the following day to see hundreds of birds and possibly seals. Follow the coast as far as St Martins – with an optional detour to the Fundy Trail Parkway if you wish to break in your hiking boots – then head north towards Sussex, gateway to the wilds of Fundy National Park and its extensive coastal trails. Continue north to Cape Enrage to take a tour of the lighthouse, and sea kayak or rappel down the rock cliffs that meet the rise and fall of the powerful tides. Move on to a day trip to the bizarre formations, a must-see –but expect hundreds of visitors. Now it’s time to change provinces. Drive across the border to Nova Scotia and down to Joggins to see the Unesco World Heritage fossil cliffs. Continue along driftwood-strewn Chignecto Bay to stop for lunch in Advocate Harbour, then move onto Parrsboro via the Cape D’Or Lighthouse, to look for semiprecious stones on the beach and stay the night. Enjoy the views of the Cobequid Bay tides, which can change up to a foot per min- ute, until you reach Maitland where you can get into inflatable dinghies for an exhilarat- ing rafting adventure on the tidal bore. Scoot southwest to fabulous Wolfville for a night or two to explore the surrounding countryside, before heading deeper into the Annapolis Valley to delightful Annapolis Royal, and onwards to Digby where you can dine on suc- culent scallops before resting your weary head. In the morning, head over to Long Island, home to the region’s most spectacular whale-watching, before turning back to Digby for the car ferry to Saint John, New Brunswick, where the adventure began. 29 PETER UNGER/GETTY IMAGES © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i nerar i es DENISTANGNEYJR/GETTYIMAGES © Top: Charlottetown (p157) Bottom: Cabot Trail, Cape Breton Highlands National Park (p101) 30

North ape •# Prince Edward Island É National Park É Greenwich onfederation Trail •# avendish New Dunes Lenno Island•# Glasgow Prince Edward Malpeue •# •# Distillery

•# É •# •#

•# •# É É •# asin ead Summerside É each

PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN •# onfederation •# harlottetown ridge eI ne Point Prim •# rnsI opewell É •# •# Rossignol ood Estate Rocks •# É Islands f# inery Fundy Tatamagouche •#

•# National Park ÷# É

ape É Saint •# É É •# Enrage John •# St Martins Parrsboro

É na stIa It s a f# Annapolis É

i nerar •# Royal É

Digby •# •# alifa É •# ridgewater Peggys ove Kejimkujik ÷# •# •#

i es National Park Lunenburg

Island Drive Maritime Drive-Through

1 Island 10 Maritime Drive- WEEK Drive DAYS Through

Start with a day in Halifax, walking the This whistle-stop, three-province tour waterfront, visiting the museums and soak- takes in the essential sights. Enjoy Hali- ing up the city’s dining and drinking scene. fax for a day before swinging down to Take the Prince Edward Island (PEI) ferry snap a few photos at Peggy’s Cove, then from Pictou. Spend your first day exploring stop for the night in World Heritage–listed the east; stop at Rossignol Estate Winery, Lunenburg with your camera at the stroll on Basin Head Beach, swig some ready at every turn. The next day cross via potato vodka at Prince Edward Distillery Bridgewater up Hwy 8, stopping for a day and walk among the Greenwich Dunes. hike or a paddle in Kejimkujik National Head south to Charlottetown, a perfect Park, then stay in Annapolis Royal and base for exploring the island’s centre. Devote take the town’s famous nighttime grave- a day to the beaches of Prince Edward Is- yard tour, if you’re not easily spooked! land National Park and the home of Anne Take a short drive to Digby for a lunch of of Green Gables in Cavendish, stopping in fried scallops, then take the ferry to Saint Malpeque Oyster Barn for an oyster lunch John, New Brunswick. If you’re a nature and New Glasgow for a lobster supper. lover, press on to camp in Fundy Na- tional Park; otherwise, stay in adorable Overnight in Summerside, then drive . Spend the next day hiking up the west coast through Acadian villages St Martins and continuing up the Fundy Coast to view to lighthouse vistas. If time allows, spend the tides at Cape Enrage and Hopewell a day or two cycling along the Confedera- Rocks. The next day, drive across the tion Trail, driving up to North Cape, into Prince Ed- and learning about Mi’kmaw culture on Confederation Bridge ward Island (PEI) and Charlottetown. Lennox Island. Meet Anne of Green Gables in Cavendish, Take the Confederation Bridge to have a lobster supper, then tour PEI’s east drive back to Halifax via the wine region coast the following day, with a stop at around Tatamagouche, or head down the Point Prim, before taking the car ferry Fundy Coast to Parrsboro for geological back to Nova Scotia and Halifax. explorations.­ ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 279

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

OUR READERS Korina Miller Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edi- Thank you to Ben Buckner for inviting me to join this tion and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful advice project, to my fellow authors for their enthusiasm and interesting anecdotes: and to Imogen Bannister for her support. Huge thanks to my parents who kept things ticking while Lisa Chung, Diane Collari, Gillian Jeens, Marie-Claude I was away, to Kirk for being my rock and to my Le Ber, Sue McGiveron, Kerry Mudd, Hilary Smith, daughters, Simone and Monique, who make coming Martin Taylor, Trudie Webster home the best part of traveling. To the people of New Brunswick, merci for sharing your truly beautiful WRITER THANKS province with me. Oliver Berry Big thanks to Ben Buckner for the chance to return ACKNOWLEDGMENTS to write about Canada, to the Lonely Planet editors Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson for whipping my work into shape, and to my fellow BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the writers for making this book what it is. Heartfelt Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and thanks to Rosie Hillier for putting up with my wander­ Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. lust, and to Susie Berry for long-distance corre- Cover photograph: Lobster-pot fishing buoys, Nova spondence. Thanks also to Sam White, Justin Foulkes, Scotia, Laszlo Podor/Getty Images © Deborah Gill, Anna Louis and many others for useful Canadian tips and much-needed hospitality. Adam Karlin Big thanks to Ben Buckner, for getting me on this project, Anna Kaminski, my commiserator in chief, my fellow co-authors, Carolyn and Adam in St John’s, Gordon in Bonavista, the construction crews of the New Wes Valley, mom and dad, my wild little Isaac, and my favorite traveling companions: Rachel, who can layer for anything, and Sanda, who endures the road better than her daddy. 280 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

McCarthy, and the 4th edition Product Editors Bruce Evans, THIS BOOK by Celeste Brash, Caroline Kate Kiely This 5th edition of Lonely Sieg and Karla Zimmerman. Book Designers Ania Barto- Planet’s Nova Scotia, New This guidebook was produced szek, Gwen Cotter by the following: Brunswick & Prince Edward Assisting Editors Sarah Island guidebook was curated Destination Editor Ben Bailey, Melanie Dankel, Victoria by Oliver Berry and researched Buckner Harrison, Jennifer Hattam, and written by Oliver, Adam Senior Product Editors Gabrielle Innes, Claire Rourke, Karlin and Korina Miller. The Grace Dobell, Martine Power, Tamara Sheward 3rd edition was written by ­Saralinda Turner Cover Researcher Naomi Korina Miller, Benedict Walker, Regional Senior Cartogra- Parker Kate Armstrong and Carolyn pher Corey Hutchison Thanks to Bailey Freeman ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 281

Index

A Colony of Avalon 200 Reserve 198 Quidi Vidi Brewery 195 Acadian culture 22 Kejimkujik National Black Bart 240 Rare Bird 112 Acadian Historic Village 150 Park 80 Blanc Sablon 229 Tatamagouche Brewing Acadian history 241-2 art 249-52, see also Blomidon Mountains 224-5 Co 97 ­individual arts Acadian music 246-7 Bluenose 77 Two Islands Brewing 95 art festivals 251 149 boat travel 270, 271 Brier Island 87-8, 31 ATMs 265 Acadian Shores 82-5 boat trips 201 Avalon Peninsula 197-203 accessible travel 260 Baddeck 107 Burgeo 229 accommodations 260-2, see Big Tancook Island 73 Burin Peninsula 207-8 also individual accom- B Charlottetown 159 bus travel 270, 271 modations, individual Baccalieu Trail 201-2 Halifax 62 business hours 19, 265-6 locations Baddeck 106-8 Hare Bay 216 language 274-5 B&Bs 260-1 Peggy’s Cove 72 C activities 31-9, see also Bathurst 151-2 boating individual activities Cabot, John 239 Battle Harbour 231 Bonavista 206 Advocate Harbour 95-6 Cabot Trail 27, 101-6, 29 Bay d’Espoir 214 Fredericton 117-18 African-Canadian music 247 Campbellton 152 Bay of Fundy 9, 28, 9, 31 Gros Morne National camping 261 air travel 269-70, 270-1 Park 217 beaches Campobello Island 128-9 airlines 269-70 Peggy’s Cove 72 Basin Head Beach 167 cannabis 264 airports 269 St Andrews by-the-Sea Crystal Cliffs Beach 99 Canning 87 Alma 140-1 125 Crystal Crescent Amherst 93 canoeing & kayaking 22, 32 Beach 63 St John’s 188 amusement parks Advocate Harbour 95 Lawrencetown Beach 111 St-Pierre 208 142 Chester 73 Martinique Beach 111 Trinity 204 animals 254, see also Deer Island 127 Mavillette Beach Twillingate Island 211-12 individual species Eastern Shore 111-12 ­Provincial Park 85 Witless Bay 198-9 Annapolis Royal 88-90 Gros Morne National Rainbow Haven 111 Bonavista 205-7 Annapolis Valley 86-93 Park 217, 36 Smuggler’s Cove books 236, 256 Kejimkujik National Anne of Green Gables 10, ­Provincial Park 85 Bouctouche 147-8 173, 176-7, 236 Park 80 Beaconsfield Historic Brackley Beach 169 Kensington 176 Antigonish 98-9 House 157, 11 breweries & microbreweries Kouchibouguac National aquariums Bear River 85 Annapolis Brewing 90 Park 148 Bonne Bay Marine Station beer 45-6 216 Battery Park Beerbar & Lunenburg 77 Bell Island 228 Eatery 71-2 Fundy Discovery Mt Carleton Provincial bicycle travel 271, 273 ­Aquarium 124 Big Spruce Brewing 108 Park 121 Big Tancook Island 73 Homarus Eco-Centre 146 Breton Brewing 109-10 North Rustico 171 New Brunswick ­Aquarium birds 254, 35, 191 Copper Bottom Brewing St Andrews by-the-Sea 149 bird-watching 35 165 126 Ocean Sciences Centre Baddeck 107 Craft Beer Corner 162 St Martins 138 227 Elliston 206 Evermore Brewing Twilliingate Island 211 archaeological sites, see Sackville Waterfowl ­Company 179 Victoria (Prince Edward also historic sites Park 145 Garrison Brewing Island) 168 Shepody Bay Shorebird ­Company 69 227 Reserve 141 Good Robot 68 Cape Blomidon 87 Wallace Bay National Heritage Brewing Co 84 Map Pages 000 Cape Breton Highlands Wildlife Area 96 Propeller Brewing National Park 9, 101-2, Photo Pages 000 Witless Bay Ecological Company 69 29, 34, 66 282 Cape Breton Island 99-110 D Royal St John’s Regatta G Cape Enrage 141 Dalhousie 152 188 galleries, see museums & Cape Forchu Lightstation Dartmouth 71-2 Shakespeare by the Sea galleries Festival 188 15, 83, 15 Deer Island 127-8 Gander 210 World Pond Hockey Cape George 99 Digby 86-7 geography 253 Tournament 122 145 Dildo 202 geology 253

INDEX INDEX Writers at Woody Point Cape North 105 George Street 194 Dingwall 105 Festival 218 Cape Ray 227 Georgetown 164-5 discount Ccrds 262 film festivals Cape Shore 202-3 Goat Island 109 distilleries 21 Atlantic International C-H Cape Smokey 104 Blue Roof Distillers 142-3 Film Festival 63 Goulds 197-8  196 Grand Banks 257 Glenora Inn & Distillery Silver Wave Film Festival  Cape St Mary’s Ecological 100, 47 118 Grand Manan Island 13, Reserve 202 Ironworks Distillery 77 films 236 132-4, 13 car rental 272 Myriad View Distillery 239 Grand Pré 90-3 car travel 270, 271-3 166 fish 255 215 safety 272 Prince Edward Distillery fishing 37-8 Greenwich Dunes 168, 175 Caraquet 150-1, 21 166 Cape Breton Island Gros Morne National Park cathedrals, see churches & drinks 45-7 101, 38 216-19, 36, 39 cathedrals language 275-7 Georgetown 164-5 Cavendish 176-7 driver’s licenses 271 Petty Harbour 197 Ceilidh Trail 100-1 drugs 264 H flies 255 Halifax 16, 56-71, 58-9, 17 ceilidhs 246 Dumping Day 83 Florenceville-Bristol 120 accommodations 63-4 cell phones 18, 267 Fogo Island 212-14 activities 61-2 Change Islands 212-14 folk art 250 drinking & nightlife 68-9 Charlottetown 10, 157-63, E Eastern Fundy Shore folk music 247 entertainment 69 158, 11, 29, 174 138-41 food 43-8, 263, 2, 17, 43, Chester 73-4 festivals & events 62-3 Eastern Shore 110-12 46, see also individual food 64-8 Chéticamp 102-4 foods economy 237 shopping 69-71 children, travel with 40-2 language 275-6 electricity 262 sights 57-61 churches & cathedrals food festivals 48 Elliston 206 tourist information 70 Église Ste-Marie 85 Digby Scallop Days 86 embassies 262 tours 62 St Mary’s Cathedral Fall Flavours 159 emergencies 19 travel to/from 70 Basilica 61 Farm Day language 277 travel within 70-1 climate 18 in the City 159 environmental issues Harbour Breton 214 climate change 236, 270 ­236-7, 257-8 Halifax Seaport Cider & Harbour Grace 201-2 Colville, Alex 251 Erikson, Leif 238, 239 Beerfest 63 Hartland 120 Confederation Trail 161, 175 Evandale 119 Lobster Carnival 97 health 263-4 consulates 262 events, see festivals & PEI Burger Love 159 Corner Brook 223-4, 224 events PEI International Shell- Hector 97 costs 19, 42, 261, 263 exchange rates 19 fish Festival 159 Hermitage 214 credit cards 265 Tyne Valley Oyster hiking 21-2, 33-5 Festival 180 Big Tancook Island 73 cross-country skiing 39, 39 F forts Cupids 201 Blomidon Mountains 225 ferries 270 National customs regulations 262 Cape Breton Highlands Ferryland 199-200 Historic Site 88-9 National Park 101-2 cycling, 35-7 see also festivals & events 23-5, see bicycle travel, mountain also art festivals, film 110, , biking 21 66-7 ­Provincial Park 95 festivals, food festivals, fossils 254, 258 Cape Jourimain 145 Cape Breton Highlands indigenous festivals, François 229 Cape Mabou Highlands National Park 102 music festivals, individ- 100 Confederation Trail 161 ual locations Fredericton 115-20, 117 Cape Split 87 Corner Brook 223 Basque Festival 208 Freeport 87 Crystal Crescent Beach Dingwall 106 Bastille Day (St-Pierre & French language 274-8 63 Halifax 61 Miquelon) 208 French Shore 84-5, 220 Delap’s Cove 89 Mahone Bay 74 Festival Acadien 150 fuel 271-2 East Coast Trail 198 Rum Runners Trail 71 Iceberg Festival 221 Fundy Isles 127-34, 128 Fogo Island 213 Lamèque International Fundy National Park Baroque Festival 149 138-40 Fundy National Park 139 Fundy Trail Parkway 139 Map Pages 000 New Brunswick Highland Fundy Trail Parkway 139 Games Festival 118 Grassy Point 106 Photo Pages 000 283 Gros Morne National Ryan Premises National Kensington 176 ­Lighthouse 164 Park 217, 36 Historic Site 205 87 Peggy’s Point ­ Kejimkujik National Seal Cove 132 Killick Coast 227-8 Lighthouse 72 Park 80 Signal Hill National Kings Landing 116, 130, Kouchibouguac National Historic Site 185 130-1 229 Park 148 Sutherland Steam kitchen parties 246

Mill 96 162 INDEX L’Anse aux Meadows 221 kitesurfing 38-9 Ye Matthew Legacy 205 McNabs Island 62 knot-tying 37 history 238-44 132 Mt Carleton Provincial Kouchibouguac National Park 121-2 hitchhiking 273 West Point Lighthouse Park 148-50  H-M Point Pleasant Park 62 holidays 266 178

 Skerwink Trail 204, 190 homestays 261 164 St John’s 188 Hopewell Rocks 16, 140, L Liverpool 79-80 Taylor Head Provincial 130, 16, 130-1 Labrador 228-34, 182, 230 Park 111 hostels 261 accommodations 181 lobsters 17, 46, 17, 43 Trinity 204 hotels 261 climate 181, 183 Long Island 87-8 Twillingate Island 211 food 181 Louisbourg 110, 21, 66-7 White Point 105 geography 183 Loyalists 241 historic sites 20, 41 I highlights 182 Lunenburg 13, 75-9, 76, ice-skating 38, 62 Balmoral Grist Mill 96 history 183 12, 66-7 Iceberg Alley 13, 222, 12 Barbour Living Heritage language 183 Village 215 Île aux Marins 208 planning 189 indigenous art 249-52 M Cape Spear National travel seasons 181 Mabou 100 Historic Site 196 indigenous cultural weather 181 Mahone Bay 74-5 Castle Hill National experiences wildlife 183 Maitland 90 Historic Site 203 Eskasoni Cultural Journeys 109 Labrador Straits 228-31 Malignant Cove 99 Citadel Hill National Lamèque 149 Historic Site 57-60 Lennox Island Cultural maps 265 language 18, 274-8 Cupids Cove Plantation Centre 180 Margaree Forks 100 L’Anse aux Meadows 219- Provincial Historic Membertou Heritage markets 22, Site 201 Park 108 10 Annapolis Royal 90 leeches 255-6 Fairview Lawn ­ Mi’kmaw Encampment Charlottetown 161 80-1 legal issues 264 Cemetery 61 Halifax 69 indigenous festivals Lewis, Maud 250 Fort Anne National Old City Market 130, 130 Historic Site 88-9 Panmure island Powwow LGBTIQ+ travelers 264-5 McNabs Island 62 142 164 20, 40-1 Meat Cove 105 Fortress of Louisbourg Pictou Landing First Cape Bear Lighthouse & microbreweries, see National Historic Site Nation Powwow 97 Marconi Station 164 breweries 110, 21, 66-7 indigenous people 239 Cape Bonavista Light- 124 Grand Pré National Ingonish 104-5 house 205 Miquelon 208-10 Historic Site 91 in-line skating Cape d’Or Lighthouse 95 Miramichi River Valley 147 Green Gables Heritage Halifax 62 Cape Enrage Lighthouse Place 176-7 insects 255-8 141 149 Kings Landing 116 insurance 264 Cape Forchu Lightstation Mistaken Point Ecological Reserve 200 L’Anse Amour Burial vehicle 272 15, 83, 15 Mound 229 mobile phones 18, 267 internet resources, Cape George Point L’Anse aux Meadows see websites Lighthouse 99 Moncton 141-5, 143 National Historic Inverness 100 East Point Lighthouse money 18-19, 265 Site 220 Isle aux Morts 227 165-6, 175 Montague 164-5 Le Village historique Fort Point Lighthouse 80 moose 254, 8-9 acadien de la itineraries 26-30, 26, 27, Gilbert’s Cove Morrisseau, Norval 249 ­Nouvelle-Écosse 83 28, 30 ­Lighthouse 84-5 motels 261 Lucy Maud Montgom- Head Harbour motorcycle travel 270 ery’s Cavendish ­Lighthouse 129 Homestead 176 J safety 272 Joggins Fossil Cliffs 94, Lobster Cove Head 67 mountain biking 35-7 Norstead 221 Lighthouse 217 Fundy National Park 139 Port au Choix National Historic Site 219 K 210 Mt Stewart 167 Port Royal National kayaking, see canoeing & Miscou Lighthouse 149 museums & galleries 40-1, Historic Site 89 kayaking 244, 250 Mulholland Park Red Bay National Kejimkujik National Park ­Lighthouse 129 Acadian Museum 142, Historic Site 231 15, 80-1, 15 178-9 Panmure Head 284 Heritage Trust Gros Morne Wildlife music 11, 22, 245-8 La Manche Provincial Museum 61 Museum 216 Scottish 11, 11 Park 199 Age of Sail Museum 94 Hank Snow Home Town music festivals 248 Mavillette Beach Provin- Museum 79-80 cial Park 85 Alexander Graham Bell Boxwood Festival 78 National Historic Site Highland Village Museum Mt Carleton Provincial Canadian Deep Roots 106-7 107 Park 121-3 Festival 91

INDEX INDEX Anne of Green Gables Isles Wooden Boat New River Provincial Downtown Busker Museum 173 Museum 210-11 Park 126 Festival 188-9 Art Gallery of Nova Johnson Geo Centre 187 Prince Edward Island Festival of Small Halls Scotia 61, 83 Kings County Museum National Park 14, 168-

M-N 159  Atlantic Salmon Museum 87 9, 170-1, 14 Fiddles on the Tobique 147 Sandbanks Provincial Knaut-Rhuland House 77 122  Park 229 Labrador Interpretation George Street Festival 116 Centre 232 189 Smuggler’s Cove Provin- Bell Island Community cial Park 85 Le Centre de la Mi- Halifax Pop Explosion 63 Museum 228 Carême 103 Sugarloaf Provincial Harvest Jazz & Blues Ben’s Studio 219 Park 152 Les Trois Pignons 102-3 Festival 118 Big Salmon River Inter- Taylor Head Provincial Lucy Maud Montgomery Lunenburg Folk Harbour pretive Center 139 Park 111 Birthplace 173 Festival 78 Black Loyalist Heritage Terra Nova National Mahone Bay Settlers’ Newfoundland & Labra- Centre 81-2 Park 211 Museum 74 dor Folk Festival 189 Blair House Museum 87 Maritime Museum of the Torngat Mountains PEI Bluegrass & Old National Park 232 Canadian Museum of Atlantic 60 Time Music Festival Immigration at Memory Lane Heritage 166 Neil’s Harbour 105 57 Village 110-11 Stan Rogers Folk Festival New Brunswick 113-52, 114 Canadian Potato Museum of Industry 99 112 accommodations 113 Museum 180 Museum of Natural TD Halifax Jazz ­ climate 113 Cape Breton Miners’ History 61 Festival 62 food 113 Museum 108 Musquodoboit Harbour Trails Tales Tunes Festival highlights 114 Dory Shop Museum 82 Railway Museum 111 217-18 history 115 Elmira Railway Museum language 115 166 134 travel seasons 113 Farmer’s Bank of Rustico New Brunswick Sports N weather 113 & Doucet House 171 Hall of Fame 116 National Historic Sites, see historic sites New Glasgow 172-3 Fisheries Museum of the Northumberland Atlantic 77 ­Fisheries Museum 97 national & provincial parks New London 173-6 256 Fisherman’s Life Olivier Soapery 148 New World Island 210-12 Arches Provincial Park 217 Museum 111 Orwell Corner Historic Newfoundland 181-227, 182 Fogo Island 213 Village 162 Arisaig Provincial accommodations 181 Park 99 Fortune Head Geology ­ climate 181, 183 Basin Head Provincial Centre 207 87 food 181 Park 167 Founding Cultures Prime Berth Fishing geography 183 Museum 150 Cabots Landing Provin- Museum 210 highlights 182 Fredericton Region cial Park 106 Railway Society of history 183 Museum 116 Newfoundland 223 Cape Breton Highlands National Park 9, 101-2, itineraries 184 French Shore Interpreta- & , , , language 183 tion Centre 220 Moncton Museum 142 8-9 29 34 66 Cape Chignecto Provin- planning 189 Fundy Geological Ross Memorial Museum cial Park 95 Museum 93-4 124 travel seasons 181 Cedar Dunes Provincial Garden of the Gulf Rossignol Cultural travel to/from 183-4 Park 178 Museum 164 Centre 79 weather 181 Crystal Crescent Beach Grand Manan Art Gallery Ross-Thomson House 82 wildlife 183 63 132 Sherbrooke Village 111 newspapers 263 Fundy National Park Grand Manan Historical 185 New-Wes-Valley 215 Museum 132 138-40 Trinity Museum 204 North Cape 180 Green Park Shipbuilding Gros Morne National North Mountain 87 Museum & Yeo House Twillingate Museum 211 Park 216-19, 36, 39 180 Whale Interpretive Herring Cove Provincial North Rustico 169-72 Centre 104 Park 129 North Sydney 108-10 William E deGarthe Gal- Kejimkujik National Park Northumberland lery & Monument 72 15, 80-1, 15 Shore 146-50 Map Pages 000 Kouchibouguac National notable buildings Photo Pages 000 Museum 83 Park 148-50 Beaconsfield Historic 285 House 157, 11 Victoria Park 157 rock climbing 62 telephone services 19, 267 Government House Parrsboro 93-5 Rosenberg, HM 251 Tignish 180 (Fredericton) 116 passports 269 Rum Runners Trail 71 time 18, 267 Halifax Town Clock 61 Peggy’s Cove 14, 72-3, 14 Running the Goat 197 language 277 Loyalist House 134 Petty Harbour 197-8 Rustico 169-72 tipping 265 Maisons de Bouteilles phone cards 267 Tiverton 87

177-8 INDEX Pictou 97-8 Tobique Salmon Barrier 121 New Brunswick Legisla- S Pinware 229 Tobique Valley 121-3 tive Building 116 Sackville 145-6 pirates 240 tourist information 267 St Andrews Blockhouse safety 266-7 train travel 270, 273  N-V 124 Placentia 202-3 road travel 272

 ,planning travel to/from Nova Scotia St Dunstan’s Basilica 157 Saint John 134-8, 135 budgeting 19, 261, 263 New Brunswick & Thomas Williams House salmon 121 Prince Edward Island children, travel with 40 142 Scots Ba 87 269-70 itineraries 26-30, , , Nova Scotia 26, 52-112, 26 27 Scottish music 245-6 travel within Nova Scotia, 28, 30 54-5 seafood 20, 43, 45, 46 New Brunswick & accommodations 52 regions 49-50 see also individual­ Prince Edward Island climate 52 travel seasons 18 seafoods 19, 270-3 food 52 plants 256-7 seal hunting 255 Trinity 203-5 highlights 54-5 Pleasant Bay 104 seals 254, 255, 33 TV 263 history 53 Point Prim 162 seaweed 45 Twillingate Island 210-12, tourist information 53 polar bears 253 Shediac 146-7 190-1 travel seasons 52 Pool’s Island 215 Shelburne 81-2 Tyne Valley 180 travel to/from 53-6 population 237 149 travel within 56 Port au Choix 219 shopping U Port au Port Peninsula 225 language 277 Unesco World Heritage Port aux Basques 226-7, Shubenacadie 93, 2 sites 257 O 226 Oak Island 75 Skerwink Trail 204, 190 Grand Pré National Port Williams 87 Historic Site 91 O’Brien, John 251 skiing 39, 39 postal services 266 Joggins Fossil Cliffs 94 Old City market 130, 130 Corner Brook 223 Prince Edward Island 153- Lunenburg 13, 75-9, opening hours 19, 265-6 Smith, Edith 251 80, 154-5, 190-1 76, 12 smoking 263 accommodations 153 Mistaken Point Ecologi- Snow, John 242 climate 153 cal Reserve 200 P snowboarding 39 parks & gardens food 153 university accommoda- Souris 165-7 Annapolis Royal Historic highlights 154-5 tions 262 South Shore 73-82 Gardens 89 history 156 Upper St John River Valley spirits 47 120-2 CA Pippy Park 186-7 travel seasons 153 St Andrews by-the-Sea Dungeon Park 205 travel to/from 156 124-7, 130, 125, 131 Fortune Head Ecological travel within 156-7 St Anthony 222 V Reserve 207 Prince Edward Island vacations 266 St John’s 184-97, , Grande Hermine Park National Park 14, 168-9, 186 190 vegan travelers 48 St Martins 138 233 170-1, 14 vegetarian travelers 48 St Peter’s Bay 167 Halifax Public ­ provincial parks, see Victoria 167-8 Gardens 61 St Stephen 123-4 national & provincial Vikings 222 Irving Eco Centre 147 parks St-Pierre 208-10 Viking Trail 10, 27, 10 Irving Nature Park 134 pub music 248 Summerside 177-80, 178 vineyards Kingsbrae Garden 124-5 Sunrise Trail 96-9 Bear River Winery 85 Le Pays de surfing 38-9 147 Q Blomidon Estate Winery Quidi Vidi 185-6 Eastern Shore 112 87 Memorial University Lawrencetown Beach 111 Botanical Garden 187 Domaine de Grand swimming Pré 92 Metepenagiag Heritage R Fundy National Park 139 Gaspereau Vineyards 92 Park 147 rafting 32 Sydney 108-10 Jost Winery 96 New Brunswick Botanical­ Ramea 229 L’Acadie Vineyards 92 Garden 122 realism 251-2 Lightfoot & Wolfville 92 Point Pleasant Park 62 Red Bay 231 T Luckett Vineyards 92 Roosevelt Campobello religion 237 Tatamagouche 96-7 International Park Newman Estate Winery RMS Titanic 242 taxes 265 128-9 164 taxis 273 Tangled Garden 91 road rules 272-3 286 Rossignol Estate Winery whales 254, 5 Reserve 199 Reserve 198-9, 191 164 whale-watching 33 Shubenacadie Provincial Wolfville 90-3 Wolfville 92 Brier Island 88 Wildlife Park 93 women travelers 268 visas 18, 267-8 Campobello Island 129 Wallace Bay National Wood Islands 163-4 volunteering 268 Chéticamp 103 Wildlife Area 96 work 268 Neil’s Harbour 106 wine 21, 46-7

INDEX INDEX Pleasant Bay 104 wine regions W Cape Blomidon 87 Y waterfalls St Margaret Village 105 Grand Pré 92 Yarmouth 83-4 Grand Falls 123 Witless Bay Ecological

V- Malagash Peninsula 96  Pabineau Falls 151 Reserve 198

Z Prince Edward Island 164  weather 18 White Point 105 Z Wolfville 92 zip lining websites 19 white-water rafting Wood Islands 164 Anchors Above Zipline weights & measures 263 Shubenacadie River 90 wineries 21 Adventure 99 Westport 88 wildlife 253-8 Auk Island Winery 211 Corner Brook 223 Whale Point 220 wildlife parks & reserves Avalon Wilderness Witless Bay Ecological

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 287

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkeling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing BART station Reef Other Activity Border crossing Boston T station Areas Sleeping Bus Airport/Runway Sleeping Cable car/Funicular Camping Cycling Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Ferry Cemetery (Christian) Metro/Muni station Eating Monorail Cemetery (Other) Eating Parking Glacier Petrol station Drinking & Nightlife Subway/SkyTrain station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Park/Forest Cafe Train station/Railway Tram Sight (Building) Entertainment Underground station Sportsground Entertainment Other Transport Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Oliver Berry Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island Oliver Berry is a writer and photographer from Cornwall. He has worked for Lonely Planet for more than a decade, cov- ering destinations from Cornwall to the Cook Islands, and has worked on more than 30 guidebooks. He is also a regular contributor to many newspapers and magazines, including Lonely Planet Traveller. His writing has won several awards, including The Guardian Young Travel Writer of the Year and the TNT Magazine People’s Choice Awards. His latest work is published at www.oliverberry.com. Oliver also wrote the Plan, Understand and Survive sections.

Adam Karlin Newfoundland & Labrador Adam has contributed to dozens of Lonely Planet guidebooks, covering an alphabetical spread that ranges from the Andaman Islands to the Zimbabwe Border. As a journalist he has written on travel, crime, politics, archeology, and the Sri Lankan Civil War, among other topics. He has sent dispatches from every continent barring Antarctica (one day!) and his es- says and articles have featured in the BBC, NPR, and multiple non-fiction anthol- ogies. Learn more at http://walkonfine.com/, or follow on Instagram @adamwalkonfine.

Korina Miller New Brunswick Korina grew up on Vancouver Island and has been exploring the globe independently since she was 16, visiting or living in 36 countries and pick- ing up a degree in Communications and Canadian Studies, an MA in Migration Studies and a diploma in Visual Arts en route. As a writer and editor, Korina has worked on nearly 60 titles for Lonely Planet and has also worked with LP.com, BBC, the Independent, the Guardian, BBC5 and CBC, as well as many independ- ent magazines. She has currently set up camp back in Victoria, soaking up the mountain views and the pounding surf.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 5th edition – Apr 2020 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78701 362 9 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2020 Photographs © as indicated 2020 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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