40 Multilingual Margins 2018, 5(1): 40-65 Language, food and gentrification: signs of socioeconomic mobility in two Gothenburg neighbourhoods Johan Järlehed University of Gothenburg, Department of Languages and Literatures Helle Lykke Nielsen University of Southern Denmark, Centre for the Middle East Studies Tove Rosendal University of Gothenburg, Department of Languages and Literatures Correspondence to:
[email protected] ABSTRACT This paper examines at how language and food intersect and interact in gentrification processes. As a capital-driven social process aiming at enhancing the socioeconomic value of urban space, gentrification implies mobility both in the sense that it attracts new people, businesses and capital to an area, and in the form of displacement of less affluent and prestigious people, businesses and semiotic resources from central to marginal urban spaces. The paper examines linguistic and visual traces of such mobilities in two neighbourhoods in Gothenburg, Sweden. Based on the observation that food and food practices are central for the production and reproduction of social distinction, the analysis centres on food related establishments and signs. In particular, it discusses the distinction-making function of prestigious languages, elite gastronomic registers, and gourmet food trucks, and how these depend on the marginalization of low status languages, popular gastronomic registers and cheap generic food carts. People’s interaction with these resources contributes to the reconfiguration of social and urban space. Keywords: gentrification, distinction, gastronomic register, food trucks, linguistic landscape © Järlehed, Lykke Nielsen, Rosendal and CMDR. 2018 Language, food and gentrification 41 INTRODUCTION but also through flows and (im)mobility of people, products, and capital (Lou Cities are in constant change as people 2016).