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Volume 28 – Issue 4 winter 2020 IN THIS ISSUE

2 Notes from the Board Notes from the Director ONE 3 Guild News Upcoming Events TEN PRODUCTS ReVision 2021 New Members Why I Took the CBB Exam Endless Possibilities Neale Creamer Scholarship

11 20/20 Vision By SOPHIA GAGAKUMA Guild Member and Cottage Owner ••• Rockwall, TX Savory One Dough, Ten Products Roots of Sweet & Savory 2020 Calendar Formula

24 Member News Quarantiny Starter Jamison B Breadhouse Formatting for The Guild

32 Student Spotlight WILHELM WANDERS PHOTO: & Finance High School

36 Industry News Artisan Grain Collaborative and Tiptree 2020 Heroes

44 Seasonal

48 Technical Articles Brotformen Should I buy a pH meter? Science Primer Source More Diverse

60 Guild Partners Instructors, Amber Eisler and Carrie Brisson, at Company showing us ten magical products made from one simple dough. The Bread Guild of America is the leading American educational read making is both a scientific and As part of the BBGA’s virtual class series, resource for artisan bread bakers. Our a creative endeavor, but creating ten Carrie Brisson and Amber Eisler tag-team- mission: to shape the knowledge and products from one master dough is a taught a 3-hour course on how to mix, divide, skills of the artisan baking community magicB trick that every should definitely shape, top, bake, and finish 10 different through education. Bread Lines, the magazine of The Bread Bakers Guild of have under their sleeve. products created from one base dough. They America, is published four times per year. Continued on page 14 NOTES FROM THE GUILD

NOTES FROM THE BOARD burn-out. Our committees have developed mission statements and goals, and we now have a fairly robust process for Board member orientation. We’ve all been told to learn from our mistakes, and we do, and I could ramble on about other exciting things, and I could list our it is useful. Equally important, but future plans (the website!), but I’ll get out of the way so you can somehow more difficult, is to learn get to the interesting stuff. I am thankful to everyone who has from our victories. It is devilishly helped us this year by asking tough questions, seeking reason easy to dwell on the thing that’s within the chaos, and by stepping up to volunteer. gone wrong (the irate customer, the regrettable interaction, the My hope is that the realities of 2021 support our abilities to affect burned bread) at the expense of remembering what has gone well. positive change, to learn and to grow, and to be creative. Above This year has been rough. We are in mourning and we worry. The all, I hope we find the strength to remember what is good, and the stress is constant, and I feel sad and mad about so much. time to hold these things close to our hearts. However, the steady onslaught of challenges has created opportunities for exploration and change, and I would like to take this moment to celebrate some of our good work and hopeful acts. Our members have quickly changed business models, implemented creative support and safety systems, and worked tirelessly to support their communities. Our Board and staff SOLVEIG TOFTE Board Chair and Owner, Sun Street — Minneapolis, MN have done incredible things this year, and I am so grateful for everyone’s honesty and courage.

One of the best things to happen this year is hiring Mitch Stamm NOTES FROM THE (an extremely experienced baker and educator) as Executive Di- EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR rector, and promoting Rebecca Miller to Director of Operations. The two of them are a great team — Mitch loves bakers more than anyone I know; Rebecca has over 20 years of non-profit experi- I view a recipe/formula as a ence and is helping to truly organize this organization. reference point. The percentages, procedures, flavors, and textures After months of agony trying to figure out how to hold classes that I favor at any moment may (and after years of wishing for online education), we jumped on or may not replicate those I the Zoom wagon. These demos and bake-alongs are here to stay previously used or will use in the (but don’t worry — hands-on/in-person classes will resume as future. Detailing evolution of products and processes with peers soon as such things are possible), and are a great way to learn is the same as sharing a thought or idea. Early in my career, I something without the expense and time commitment of travel. wasn’t just my own worst critic, I was also my best and greatest We have prioritized increasing the diversity of this organization influence. I was smugly confident in my character, judgment, and — again, it’s something we’ve talked about for years, but 2020 good taste. When I realized that feedback from others provides brought many engaged individuals committed to bringing in perspective and that criticism stimulates, I understood that it’s new voices, experiences and perspectives. Part of this work is not about cracking the code; it’s about sharing the code. With the formation of an Apprenticeship Committee, developing a time, I understood that discourse encourages growth more program to train artisan bakers of the future. This has been in than soliloquy. our mandate since the formation of the BBGA over 25 years ago When I review my notes in the margins and track the evolution and it’s exciting to watch it taking shape. of a product, it reads like a personal journal. The modifications, Thanks to Mitch, we have really upped our content game. The changes, and departures reflect my influences and perspective eNewsletter is chock full of information, and there are formulas in those encapsulated observations, notes, and percentages. and videos and Zoom events happening all over the place. Bread Whether I had recently taken or taught a class, read something, Lines is packed with relevant and interesting content, and was or my tastes and thought processes changed, each advancement able to quickly embrace the online format. We had to stop print- (if that’s what they were) was indicative of what I was ing this year due to financial concerns, but are able to resume experiencing at home, in the bakery, and in between. again next year (remember to opt-in to receive a printed copy). We may agree with the general premise of a recipe or formula. Administratively, in January we will vote to change our bylaws How we choose to navigate physics, biology, chemistry, math- to institute a two-term limit for Board members. This should help ematics, and fire differs little from choosing the

keep the Board relevant, and will protect Board members from scenic route or fastest route home. How much pleasure would OF THE AUTHORS COURTESY PHOTOS:

{ 2 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA GUILD NEWS you like from the journey and which memories do you wish turmoil or change? The name 2021 Revision supersedes being to create? the title of the educational theme of the year. It’s emblematic of The Guild’s increasing awareness that our mission is not just What makes us think we do something so amazing, so education, it’s Just Education. Re-envisioning and refocusing proprietary that we must cherish and protect it from others? on sharing knowledge and skills with virtual/remote learning When we don’t share, we don’t grow. We lock ourselves in a has made baking education more accessible. You can step away vacuum. Artisans develop by receiving perspective, input, from your routine for two hours, study and interact with Guild inspiration, and advice. Locking others out is locking ourselves instructors and members, and return to your day. Eliminating in. It may feel safe, secure, and familiar, but, one day, we will look travel and offering the “pay what you can” option make around and wonder where everyone else is. education more accessible. The concise nature of the classes Since retiring from production and teaching, I’ve been giving and demos ensures no information is missed, Replaying class tools, books, and memorabilia to friends and acquaintances. recordings enables class attendees and others to glean all the I even gave away my issues of Breadlines. I’m not purging information. because I no longer value them. I’m sharing them because I There is probably a plaque in every bakery and baking school value them more than ever. Locked in my house, their worth does that says, “We learn from our mistakes.” While it’s true, it’s not extend beyond my faded memories and ego. Getting passed not the only truth. We also learn from our successes. When we around, they may or not increase in value, but their worth will be look back at 2020, I hope our assessment will show a year of consequential. reckoning, learning, and growth. That’s not a pat on the back for 2020 Vision/2021 Revision a job well done. It’s a prod to continue our quest of educating a diverse, inclusive, and equitable artisan baking community. While I love the wordplay, the nomenclature of “2021 Revision” could not be more meaningful. In the blink of an eye, The Guild’s 2020 Vision went from crystal clear to kaleidoscopic. Our plans for classes, certification testing, WheatStalk, and everything else were eviscerated in March. Like everyone else, we had to reassess MITCH STAMM everything. Will we look back at 2020, will our assessment be Executive Director, The Bread Bakers Guild of America UPCOMING VIRTUAL EVENTS JANUARY 12, 2021 WALT WHITMAN AND BREAD: A PANEL DISCUSSION 3:00pm–4:15pm PST Graison Gill — Bellegarde Bakery, Dr. Stephen Jones — The Bread Lab, Karen Karbniener — New York University In “Manly Health and Training” (1858), a series of newspaper articles on the topics of exercise and healthy eating practices, Walt Whitman preached that moral character develops from a well-maintained physique and a healthy diet. Outdated gender attitudes aside, Whitman’s “Manly Health and Training” was inspired by America’s first health reform movement which was set in motion by the reformist atmosphere that also sparked the temperance movement, homeopathic medicine, Spiritualism, and Leaves of Grass. In this panel discussion, attendees will learn how early food activists such as Sylvester Graham (creator of ‘Graham bread’, the healthy forerunner of the graham ) expressed themselves through fresh, unadulterated flour in comparable ways to Whitman’s use of fresh, unadulterated language and free verse. The panel will discuss the various social, ecological, cultural, and culinary moments and movements occurring in America in the mid 19th Century and their corollaries today.

JANUARY 31, 2021 INTRODUCTION TO DESIGN 2:00–3:30pm EST Cheryl Holbert — Nomad Bakery Introduction to the “art of challah design” using the fundamentals of challah to build an original sculptural piece. Techniques for incorporating natural ingredients to produce colored to enhance design will be demonstrated and discussed.

PLEASE NOTE TIME ZONE For more information and to register: visit bbga.org/events/virtual_democlasses Registration includes a zoom, formulas and process notes emailed ahead of the class.

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By RICHARD MISCOVICH Certified Bread Baker, BBGA Board of Directors

o you remember the Guild’s Education and The leadership of the Education and Events Committee Events theme for 2020? It is OK if you don’t due is also changing. It is time for me to step down from Dto the highly yeasted, unsalted, high dough the role and hand the () baton to new Board temp mix that COVID threw into an over-heated and Member, Roxanna Jullapat. Not only is Roxanna a unsteamed of a global pandemic. talented baker and successful business owner but she is also helping The Guild fulfill the pledge to “encourage The theme was “2020 Vision.” Ironic, isn’t it, since we did leadership opportunities for BIPOC bakers within the not see what was coming our way? BBGA such as board membership.” Roxanna and Director Even so, The Guild learned to see things in a different of Operations, Rebecca Miller have a great amount light. We had to. Based on those insights, we look of enthusiasm and vision for a new slate of education forward to next year where we’ll offer classes with events, part of which is to “increase the involvement of different delivery models that include a diversity of our BIPOC members through classes they instruct.” bakers and (hopefully) maintain traditional face-to-face Same old Guild? Nope. classes so we can see doughs and colleagues up close and in real life. Same high-quality baking and business education? Yep.

So much changed during 2020 that, in a blink of an eye, Just the same old faces? Nope. the decision was made to take another look at Education New faces, voices and educational models envisioning a and Events and bestow 2021 as the year of Revision. blend of tradition with new perspectives? Yep. Revision 2021. Come take a look at Bread Bakers Guild, Revision 2021, Don’t worry. We aren’t suggesting a “do over.” Rather, and continue to bake on. The Guild is taking all we’ve learned since 1993, A note on the logo: In the interest of seeing things autolysing it with 2020 lessons and coming back with a differently, we asked a Johnson & Wales University new vision, a revised vision, a Revision. student team from the College of Engineering and The pandemic forced our hand to learn how to present Design Department to design the 2021 logo. After many online classes. We can now clearly see this style of meetings and feedback sessions, we are appreciative education is a way to bring education (the mission of and happy to accept their design logo. Since we have an The Guild) to more bakers in more locations and at less educational mission, we want to acknowledge the work cost to everybody. We’ll continue of the Supernova team of Sabrina to offer online courses from bake- Laramee, Nolan Badore and Justin a-longs, to demo classes, to panel Gecse. We think their cinnamon discussions. These topics will not roll and millstone gazing over the only address bread and viennoiserie horizon separating 2020 from 2021 but also aspects of our evolving perfectly represents our revised industry such as the local grain vision and focus. ✹ and milling movement, operating a business during the pandemic and diverse perspectives on bread and baking. PHOTO: RICHARD MISCOVICH PHOTO:

{ 4 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA GUILD NEWS THANKS TO OUR DONORS

The Bread Bakers Guild of America gratefully recognizes its 2019–2021 fundraising partners for their generosity.

Fournee Bakery George Blanford David & Wendi Krishock Lynne Bowden John & Laura Kvasnosky Brazen Baking Richard Sperry Jim Budros Standard Baking Company Nancy Carey Gold Partners ($60,000) Sun Street Breads Monica Contois Central Milling Company Connie Cox King Arthur Baking Co. Baker’s Bunch ($390–$989) Dennis Davidson Anonymous (1) Dewey Doughberman Mary K. Andrews Ross Edlund Silver Partners ($36,000) Debra Auden Lee Glass General Mills, Inc. Jennifer Baker Good Wood Pizza & Bakery Lesaffre Corporation Eric & Marlene Baumgartner Lorraine Giurlani Brake Bread Shanon Griffin Breadfarm James W. Hatfield III Bronze Partners ($18,000) Ann F. Burgunder Hillside Bakery Ardent Mills Challenger Breadware Janice Holmes Giusto’s Vita-Grain Sumi Chang Diane K. Honda Janice Corsino Buzz Hurt Crossroads Bakeshop Beverly Jernberg Copper Partner ($12,000) Czechbox Bakery Theodore Jewell Grain Craft Abram Faber & Christy Timon Quentin Johnson Famous Baking Company Media Affiliate Jones & Perry, Inc. Stanley Ginsberg bake John Jordre Harvey & Nora Hanoian Melina Kelson Artisan Circle ($3,600) Carol Hartlage Jeff Klopatek Bay State Milling Bill Jacobus Kooshy Beans & Nadia Jarrar Paul Krebs Breadsmith Jill Ellen Jones James Lockhart Companion Baking Katherine Kehrli Sommer Mason George & Phyllis Enloe Patricia Kennedy Rebecca Miller Macrina Bakery & Café Larry Lowary Richard Miscovich Eurogerm USA Gwenn Maxfield Lucas Monahan Zingerman’s Bakehouse Robert McCamant Drew Moncol Niedlov’s Breadworks Moxie Bread Co. Hearth Society ($1,980) Cathleen Schatterly O’Neil Kelly Murphy Albemarle Baking Co. Pagosa Bakery National Honey Board Allied Bakery Equipment Company, Inc. Jill Parker Barbara Oberlin Amy’s Bread Becky Sams Beverly Ousley Bridor Joseph Silberlicht Harry Peemoeller Eva & Marco deVito Kirsten Skeehan Robert & Stacey Penkala Bryce Johnson Elizabeth Yahr Southard Lewis Perlmutter Lallemand Inc. / American Yeast Division Mitch Stamm Deann Pujol TMB Baking Equipment John MacLeod Sutherland Peter Reinhart Timber Baking Sheryl Rosen ( ) Couche Club $990–$1,979 Catherine Trujillo Amy Scherber Bennison’s Bakery Cathy Wayne Sara Scudier David Bergman John L. Wilda Sheridan Ave Bakery Bob Blaske Jim Zimmerman Something Natural Frank Carollo Splash Café Clear Flour Bakery Guild Friends (Up to $389) Robert Stein Common Good Bakery Alecco Bakery Sandra Thielman Crema Café & Artisan Bakery Anonymous (2) Marsha Vonduerckheim El Horno de Pane Bantam Bread Co. Elisabeth Walker Essence Bakery Café Rebecca Berez Ken Wilcox

BREAD LINES – WINTER 2020 { 5 } GUILD NEWS

INDIVIDUAL MEMBERS

Mohammad Alwazzan Chad Gard Diane Moore Candice Babineau Melissa Griffiths Jim Murphy Greg Beckman Charles Grippo Taddy Ojibe Andrew Bissell Joshua Hanks Elliot Parks Janet Bogue Daniel Hayes Laurie Pavliscak Christine Bolla Maria Isabel Hernandez Maisa Pinto Braga Catalina Brown Dennis Johnson Tracey Racen Welcome Steven Campbell Lauren Kayaian Brendan Rivison Our Newest Philip Campos Michelle Klein Marty Rowan Carlos Carreiro Liz Krein Frank Schneider Guild Members Abigail Carter Hector Lopez Luke Smith Daniel Choi Mary Magee Kat Sosnick September David J. Cooper Rachel Mallory Orval Sword Emilia Curtis Julie Mandel Marcus John Sybert through Armon DeMarco Steve Martin Hillary Walker Jacoby Dinges Dawn McGinnis Daniel Williams November 2020 Kathleen Estes Dana McReynolds Valerie Wilpon Grisetti Everon Jeffrey Melvin Brian Winzenried Sophia Gagakuma Lauren Moore

COMPANY MEMBERS

WILDFLOWER BAKING SCHOOL — Portland, OR APPLE ANNIE'S BAKE SHOP — Wilmington, NC My name is Emily Squadra and I am the baker behind For more than 32 years, Apple Annie’s Bake Shop hasn’t just Wildflower Baking School. I am a baker-turned-educator, who harbored an insatiable sweet tooth and love of freshly baked has professionally baked for about 10 years, with the past five goods — it’s also been cultivating a passion for top-notch focusing on whole grains and sourdough in Portland, Oregon. customer service and a dedication to community. From the I have taught classes multiple years at the Cascadia Grains newest employee to the most loyal customer, the shop is Conference and have also hosted many AirBnb Experience invested in recognizing every member of its community, as well classes. Due to COVID, I have decided to restructure as providing exceptional products made from only the best my former farmers-market-style bakery into a baking ingredients. school, hosted on Patreon. Students can sign up for a $12/ month membership where they have access to monthly live- BLACK JET BAKING CO — San Francisco, CA streamed classes on topics ranging from introductory baking Black Jet Baking Co. is a small brick & mortar bakery in the classes to more advanced croissant classes. I also post tried-and- Bernal Heights neighborhood of San Francisco. We recently true recipes and helpful baking tutorials. I look to connect bakers celebrated our 10th year of business in the Bay Area! We to the land they live on through a combination of sourdough, specialize in classic, American , pies, cakes, and whole grains and human intuition. A large part of my mission is cookies. Our original focus was elevating the treats of our youth to make baking more accessible to people, whether it’s sourcing (pop tarts, devil dogs, swiss roles, cookies, etc.) into a wholesale a sourdough culture or having access to professional baking program for local cafes, , grocery stores and catering classes. I look forward to educating many more bakers about the companies. Four years ago, we moved into our bakery after magic of whole grains and sourdough! many years in rented commercial . Since the opening of our retail location, we have added a bread and laminated dough ALLIUM & SAGE PUBLIC RELATIONS — Rancho Cordova, CA program headed by our incredible Max B. Newman. Black Jet My dad and I are serious home bakers - he’s bread, I’m more on products are created with love, a sense of humour and the very the side. My company offers assistance with social media best ingredients made available to us by the bounty of the Bay and digital marketing to small businesses such as local Area. We are very excited to join The Guild! — Gillian & Max and cake specialists.

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BLUE SKY BAKERY & CAFE — , IL The Blue Sky Bakery & Cafe is a Social Enterprise Employment sourced ingredients can be combined together to make loaves of Program that provides homeless and at-risk youth, 16–24 years bread that not only taste better, but are better for you. So eight old, with twelve weeks of paid, supportive employment. Youth years later and after several serendipitous events, here we are gain valuable experience in , baking, maintaining a with Masterpiece Bread! The concept for the name “Masterpiece” sanitary work environment, delivering catering orders, customer came from our love of the arts, both visual and performing. service, and cash-handling. Many of our loaves are flour-dusted with stencils of other famous masterpieces. BREADFOLKS BAKERY — Hudson, NY We are an organic, naturally fermented bakery specializing in MSF EQUIPMENT LIQUIDATORS — Rowlett, TX breads, pastries, baked goods and coffee. MSF Equipment Liquidators is located near Dallas, . We take pride in the quality of our equipment and in offering you GRAIN AND HONEY BAKE SHOP — Springfield, TN great value for your money. We are a small business, started I learned how to bake in January 2019, launched the business on a shoestring budget by a college student, so helping small out of my home in March 2019, and opened the retail bakery in businesses stretch their capital is in our blood. But seeking October 2019. I want to learn everything I can about the craft of value doesn’t mean you have to sacrifice quality. We carry the artisan bread so that I can continue to serve my community to top brands in bakery, , and food service equipment. the best of my ability. Brands you know and trust. Whether you’re looking for a small tabletop mixer or a giant spiral mixer, we’ve got you covered. LEAVENED CLEVELAND — Cleveland, OH Rack ovens, dough dividers, slicers, coolers, and proofers are Leavened is a locally owned and operated artisan bakery and just a few of the items we carry. cafe located in the Tremont neighborhood of Cleveland. At Leavened you will find the highest quality rustic loaves and ONE MIGHTY MILL — Lynn, MA artisan pastries in Northeast , along with superb coffee, We believe that bringing back local food systems will help our and soup. All of our breads and pastries are communities be healthy & thrive. So, we built a mill & we’re handcrafted from scratch daily, and are baked on the premises making “ you can eat.” of our Tremont bakeshop. Leavened is committed to providing the Cleveland community with delicious and wholesome baked PANDEMIC BREADS —New York, NY goods. Many of our products include locally grown whole Sourdough bread and food enthusiast. Sharing a few loaves each wheat flour and all of our products are made with 100% organic week with local community and donating $2/loaf to JBJ Soul flour. We brew locally roasted coffee and we strive to use Food Bank. local produce, meat, and whenever possible. We are Cleveland’s Neighborhood Bakery. SHEEPSCOT GENERAL STORE — Whitefield, ME Ben and Taryn started Sheepscot General in 2011, but the store MANDELIN, INC. — San Luis Obispo, CA and farm were started long before they came along. They would Almonds Are Our Passion. We are growers and handlers not be here today without their wonderful community and of superb quality almonds and manufacturers of premium talented co-workers! almond pastes and almond products. Mandelin has developed a reputation for putting our customer first in every area of our THE WICH HAUS — Whitefish, MT operation. We feel this attitude is one of the most important We at The Wich Haus specialize in unique, creative, and contributors to our success and to the success of the customers seasonally-inspired sandwiches in Whitefish, Montana. We we serve. We look forward to providing you with excellent make all of our own breads and desire to expand the idea products and customer service. — Thomas and Kim Vetsch of what bread can be. We use levain in all of our sandwich breads, Montana grain, and local ingredients to best MASTERPIECE BREAD, LLC — Geneva, IL complement a variety of sandwiches. We’re excited to be a part When Sarah and Mike first started dating, she asked him what of the growing bread movement in the Mountain West! his dream job would be. His answer: own a bread bakery. REALLY! We don’t come from a long line of bakers or have classical training. But...we love to eat bread! (Who doesn’t?) We were tired of the mass produced bread with additives and preservatives and didn’t like feeding it to our little kids. We understand why it’s done, but believe that a few locally grown/

BREAD LINES – WINTER 2020 { 7 } GUILD NEWS

WHY I TOOK THE CERTIFIED BREAD BAKER EXAM PHOTO: PHEASANT & HARE PHEASANT PHOTO: By Marc Levy Guild Member and Bread Baker II at King Arthur Baking Company – Norwich, VT

he Certified Bread Baker exam is an practice process, that way you will be well exercise in self-improvement. I took prepared for test day. the test to better locate my own skill T It’s worth noting that during my exam, I level in the continuum of my professional had to improvise as my challah came community. In production, professional off the mixer below the desired dough bakers are often occupied with the same temperature and ended up in the proof repetitive tasks: mix this, cut that, shape, box for its entire bulk fermentation. The be challenging. If not properly incorporat- shape, shape, bake, bake, bake, clean, practice that I had undertaken leading ed, the soaker will stand out sorely in the clean, clean. Most of the time there is up to that mix helped prepare me to finished product. Little ribbons of another baker or a team of bakers to help navigate any possible schedule changes streak through the dough. So take time accomplish those tasks. In the CBB exam, that may occur as a result of the new to make sure your elective formula is well this is not the case. Working alone creates and unexpected fermentation strategy. conceived and well executed. a unique challenge. If you have ever been Fortunately, I had already built a sense of at the mixer or the bench when someone The biggest obstacle is baking in an where the bake would be its busiest and calls to say they can’t make it in, you know unfamiliar oven. 20-quart Hobarts are where I might rearrange a thing or two what happens next. Instantly the energy in commonplace in bakeshops, but there are in order to adjust. This flexibility, born the bakeshop changes. Something clicks. many different ovens out there and each of well-trained experience, is not only an Everyone must find another gear, one one has a distinct personality. My test was important skill for the exam but also a that they may not necessarily know they held at Revent in . It’s a beauti- necessary skill for the working baker — have. That’s how I felt during the exam; ful well-equipped facility with a large deck those who think they’re being assessed overcome with clarity, focus and a sense oven that is much bigger than anything I’d solely on the bread that comes out of of urgency and purpose. baked on previously. The oven is equipped the oven, think again. The judges note with an intimidatingly wide automated If you’re well prepared and familiar with how candidates react to these things and loader. That particular setup necessitated the above feelings, the exam can be succeeding in these more metaphysical that I shift from my usual underhand to manageable and fun, but (and I cannot elements of baking is just as important as overhand scoring, as it was impossible to stress this enough) you need to practice. any other aspect of the test. reach all the way across the loader. Do not be the baker who casually strolls For the “baker’s choice” bread, I chose in on test day and asks, “Did you guys When it came time to load, I was staring a favorite , fennel, and poppy practice?” without having performed, at this beast of an oven in awe. We had semolina loaf. I love the nutty flavor the at an absolute minimum, a complete eight to ten loaves to bake in an oven that sesame imparts, and the savory flavors of run through of the bake beforehand. could handle ten times that amount. The the fennel add another complementary Much like the profession itself, practice first round of bread was by far the most dimension. It’s a straightforward formula. provides the necessary feedback that stressful part of the exam. And yet, much One way that I worked to streamline my fuels refinement and improvement. Prior to my relief, it all baked well. Knowing bake was to keep the preferment for this to the exam, I completed four runs of the I could trust and work with the oven bread at the same percentages as one of whole bake. One thing I picked up from brought a sense of calm and a bit more the other breads — one less preferment my time with Jory Downer, is the “four confidence to the remainder of the day. to scale and mix helped me save time and try rule” — when learning something new, Lisa, our Revent liaison was incredibly allowed for a little more mise en place on allow four rounds of solid effort. If you helpful. She went out of her way to guide day one. can’t figure out whatever it is you’re trying us through the intricacies and quirks of all to learn, step away and come back later. The bread also has a soaker. Incorporating the equipment. Do take advantage of any You need to make mistakes early in the soakers in a 20-quart planetary mixer can test-site personnel assigned to help with

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PROCESS – Sesame Semolina Preferment Pâte Fermentée Soaker Mix Type of mixer Hand Hand Length of time Until incorporated Until incorporated Dough temperature 75°F 75°F

Ferment Time/temperature 12:00–16:00 at 75°F 12:00 at 75°F

Final Dough Mix Type of mixer Spiral Mix style Improved

PHOTO: KING ARTHUR BAKING COMPANY KING ARTHUR PHOTO: Dough temperature 75°F

Ferment Time/temperature 1:00 at 75°F Number of folds 1 Timing for folds 1:00

SESAME SEMOLINA Shape Divide 680 g CONTRIBUTED BY MARC LEVY Preshape Bâtard Roll in blend Proofing device Couche A simple yet multi-dimensional loaf with a nutty flavor from the sesame seeds and a savory flavor Proof & Bake Final proof time 1:00 75°F from fennel. Temperature Oven type Deck Total flour fermented Total bake 0:22 SESAME SEMOLINA in pâte fermentée 24.90% Temperature 500°F Total dough weight 6.000 kg AP unbleached flour 24.90% TOTAL FORMULA PÂTE FERMENTÉE SOAKER FINAL DOUGH Ingredients % Kilograms % Kilograms % Kilograms % Kilograms Total flour 100.00 2.900 100.00 0.720 100.00 2.180 Durum flour 60.00 1.740 80.00 1.740 AP unbleached flour* 40.00 1.160 100.00 0.720 20.00 0.440 Cracked wheat 8.00 0.230 40.00 0.230 Millet 8.00 0.230 40.00 0.230 4.00 0.120 20.00 0.120 Sesame seed, toasted 1.50 0.040 1.90 0.040 Water 82.00 2.370 66.00 0.480 124.50 0.720 54.00 1.170 2.20 0.060 2.00 0.010 2.30 0.050 Yeast 1.80 0.050 1.00 0.010 2.00 0.040 Soaker 59.90 1.300 Pâte fermentée 56.40 1.220 Totals 207.50 6.000 169.00 1.220 224.50 1.300 276.50 6.000 Seed blend† As needed

*11%–12% protein PROCESS †Poppy, sesame, fennel : After final shape, roll in clean, wet towel then in seed blend. Score before placing the facility. Their experience can mean the side-by-side, and this cultivated a deep in couche. difference between beautiful baguettes sense of camaraderie and mutual critique. and shiny, over-steamed supermarket We discussed the test day and our torpedoes. respective schedules ad nauseam, right helps expand cumulative knowledge as up to the car ride to Revent. We talked at professionals. After all, this process is I should note that I didn’t embark on length about the things that bothered us about more than improving ourselves, this adventure alone. My baking bud about our trial runs and offered strategies it’s about elevating one another and and fellow co-pain, Luc Diggle took about how to overcome them. We had strengthening the bonds that make us the exam alongside me. This was each other’s backs, and I wholly suggest bakers. The more of us who undertake incredibly beneficial. Luc is a strong that if you can do the test with another and successfully complete the CBB exam, and knowledgeable baker anchored in baker from your shop, do it! It deepens the stronger we are as a profession and a tradition. We did several of our trial runs those most important relationships and community. ✹ BREAD LINES – WINTER 2020 { 9 } GUILD NEWS

The Neale Creamer scholarship fund S THE NEALE CREAMER SCHOLARSHIP FUND WAS ESTABLISHED BY THE GUILD IN HONOR OF LONGTIME TREASURER, NEALE CREAMER. THE PURPOSE OF THE FUND IS TO PROVIDE FINANCIAL ASSISTANCE TO QUALIFIED MEMBER APPLICANTS TO ATTEND A GUILD CLASS OR WHEATSTALK.

neale was part of The Guild long before I was but I was I don’t think I would have even considered the role of privileged enough to serve on the Board with him for nine Chairman if Neale wasn’t by my side. I think it is easy for years; four on the Executive Committee on which Neale people to forget that The Guild is a legitimate not-for- served as Treasurer. profit business. It’s run like a business and is very careful about compliance with all of the requirements of being a I would bet that in many non-profits, clubs, etc. the title business. I always joked that Neale would be the reason of Treasurer is nothing more than that, a title at best and that we would always be on the straight and narrow, but perhaps a mandatory stepping stone to reach the highest truthfully it was no joke I meant it and I valued it beyond office. This was not the case with Neale. Neale was a home words. Neale was not afraid to speak up and he always baker, an incredibly passionate one, and didn’t see his kept the best interests of The Guild at the forefront. When place at the top of the organization. Personally I’m happy decisions had to be made I knew that I could always count for that because to put it simply he was just too good at on Neale to see beyond the bright lights of the idea and filling the role he was in. Neale was the unsung hero, the offer advice based on the long-term outlook. This was twelfth man, a pillar of the organization. priceless. Neale brought more than a keen eye for details to The My memories of Neale aren’t just of his role as described Guild. He wasn’t just our financial expert he was our legal above. He was a baker like the rest of us. He was expert as well. I have never met a more detail-oriented passionate about good food and good bread. He was a person. The Board holds a monthly call and on those calls family man and we were lucky that he often shared the the first order of business is to approve the minutes from company of his lovely wife with our group. the prior month. The process is simple but starts by asking everyone if they have any comments or corrections to the Death can be a difficult subject to deal with. For me I view minutes. Essentially the question should have been “Neale, it as a transition from the physical world to the spiritual do you have any comments or corrections?” because world and if we keep the memories of those we cherish he almost always did. As a lawyer, Neale knew that the alive the truth is they never leave us. simplest wording mattered. That may not seem like much — Jeff Yankellow but it is a small reason why he was such an important part BBGA Board Chair Emeritus of The Guild.

We would like to thank the following Guild members who have donated this year. Additionally, A Special Evening with Jeffrey Hamelman and James MacGuire raised $1450. Thank you to all who participated.

Ann Burgunder Heidi Creamer Marian Creamer Phyllis & George Enloe Grain Conditioning, Inc. Natalie Gould Kristen Lopez Deann Pujol Michael Sellers (Journeyman Bakery)

{ 10 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA SAVORY PASTRIES Savory Pastries Reimagined SOLVEIG TOFTE Sun Street Breads ••• Minneapolis, MN Liaison: Martin Ouimet By EMILY MESECK Guild Member and Serious Home Baker ••• Fair Hills, NJ

n October 26th, I had the pleasure The formulas for the savory pastries were OCTOBER 26 of taking a day off from my day shared with the email for confirmation job as a scientist and joined other of registration. This allowed class GuildO members to learn about savory participants to scale ingredients and pastries from Solveig Tofte at Sun Street prepare fillings and the poolish and levain Breads in Minneapolis, MN. Solveig is the before class. In the case of the head baker and co-founder of the bakery, dough and the détrempe for the croissant with husband Martin Ouimet. She also dough, it allowed participants to mix serves as the current Chair of the BBGA and ferment dough prior to the start of Board of Directors. This is the second our 2-hour interactive demonstration time she has held that key volunteer post. on Zoom. Slow the mushroom Solveig is one of the few double certified confit one afternoon filled my house with bakers, holding Certification through The the delicious aromas of mushrooms and Guild for Bread and Viennoiserie. Solveig, rosemary; family members were looking hailing originally from a small town of forward to the outcome of the demo the same surname, has been an artisan the next day. Early preparation allowed baker for over twenty years and has had me to focus on the content that Solveig MESECK OF EMILY COURTESY PHOTO: outsized impact on the profession. She was delivering instead of multitasking previously represented the to listen and work simultaneously. improved engagement and retention at the Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie Evidence is emerging that, in any kind (psychologytoday.com/us/blog/the- (2008) and co-founded the Intergalactic of virtual format, most people can media-psychology-effect/201903/12- Bakers Federation with Pierre Zimmerman only focus for 30 minutes at a time, so best-practices-in-online-teaching-and- in 2015 with the goal to do “good work, breaking up the demonstration with a learning). share knowledge and have a little fun clear agenda and various camera angles, along the way” (bakersfederation.org). including a few live shots of baking items, Solveig delivered a lot of practical advice regarding production schedules that would be particularly applicable to smaller operations where making all varieties of pastries each day is neither feasible nor desirable. Alterations to traditional formulas, such as increasing the yeast content of the croissant formula to account for yeast inactivity and loss due to freezing were covered in detail.

The egg sheet formula was the focus of two brief discussions — , as it is a highly hazardous ingredient, and the science of the formula, which reflected a notable investment of time and research to identify and refine a method to keep the eggs tender upon reheating, and thus avoid the dreaded

Instructor, Solveig Tofte welcoming the class.

BREAD LINES – WINTER 2020 { 11 } 20/20 VISION

rubbery egg phenomenon. She explained content of the various fillings, and the Rebecca and others. They have adapted in the formula notes that, rather than behavior of various cheeses, including the classes, discussions and get-togethers to providing interference with the formation undesirability of using all aged cheddar in Zoom and other on-line platforms during of protein cross linking leading to tough the fillings and in the (Ryese and incredibly challenging circumstances so eggs, she used a fully hydrated (boiled) Shine) were also discussed. Guild members can continue to learn, cornstarch slurry. The starch granules connect and grow in this topsy-turvy year The focaccia pocket formula had the hydrostatically attract both protein and that is 2020. ✹ advantage of being a water, thus preventing water seepage with dough tenderizers including oil Reference: Jamilah B, Mohamed A, Abbas from the egg sheet as well as improving and powder that resulted in a more KA, Abdul Rahman R., Karim R and the texture (Jamilah et al. 2009). We also tender dough that was not chewy. Solveig Hashim DM. Protein-starch interaction and had a brief, interactive diversion into food credited Kathy Keyes of Pagosa Baking their effect on thermal and rheological safety around the egg sheet formula. As Company for this formula; memorialized characteristics of a food system: A participants weighed in on the widely in their moniker “Pagosa Pockets.” These review. Journal of Food, Agriculture & divergent views of state and local health modifications result in improved handling Environment Vol.7 (2) : 169–174. 2009 departments, the take home message for shaping and eating quality. We was that local regulations should be covered both a “tucked packet” shape thoroughly investigated and followed for and a square shape. Solveig stressed that your particular location. having clean cuts on all four sides of the The variety of fillings reviewed in the square improved adhesion of the four class covered a variety of seasonal sides and improved appearance and produce including delicious mushroom that the “ends” of the packet must confit and a fall “hash” with roasted be firmly tucked under to prevent sweet potatoes, celery root and bacon. unwrapping/springing open during I subbed winter squash for the sweet proofing and baking. potato (pandemic substitutions!) and I want to extend my thanks to Solveig for was very pleased with the result. The a unique and informative class and to the family favorite was a combination of the organizers at the BBGA office including spinach and mushroom fillings. The water

Solveig demonstrating the Pagosa Pockets. Clockwise from left: Utilizing the egg sheet in a square version. Demonstrating the different shaping options. Inside of a finished pocket. Bottom left: Emily Meseck’s savory pastries at home. PHOTO: EMILY MESECK EMILY PHOTO:

{ 12 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA 20/20 VISION

RYESE AND SHINE BISCUITS Contributed by SOLVEIG TOFTE

We make a lot of biscuits. Our plain buttermilk is used for sandwiches and for , and then every day we make some kind of savory biscuit for sale in our retail case. Normally, they have some pork involved — ham and swiss, bacon and cheddar, etc. But we all got a little obsessed with flour, and thought it would be nice to have a vegetarian biscuit. The trick with these is to bake them a bit longer than you feel comfortable doing — they need a good hard bake with visibly darkened edges, otherwise they are gummy and oddly tasteless.

RYESE AND SHINE BISCUITS Total dough weight 3.800 kg TOTAL FORMULA Ingredients % Kilograms Total flour 100.00 1.333

All purpose flour 50.00 0.667 OUIMET MARTIN PHOTO: Whole rye flour 50.00 0.667 Buttermilk 85.00 1.133 Salt 2.00 0.027 Bakng powder 2.00 0.027 Baking soda 0.50 0.007 Cheddar , cubed 30.00 0.400 Swiss cheese, cubed 30.00 0.400 Unsalted butter 30.00 0.400 Grainy 5.50 0.073 Totals 285.00 3.800

PROCESS – Ryese and Shine Biscuits Final Dough Mix Hold back Swiss, cheddar and buttermilk Type of mixer Paddle Length of time Until butter is cut into pea sized chunks Add Swiss and cheddar Type of mixer Hand Length of time Until distributed Add Buttermilk (see process notes)

Makeup Preshape Flatten to 2" thick Rectangle Fold 2 single Refrigerate 0:30 Solveig showing the Shape Roll to 15"x15" and cut finished Ryese and into 3" squares Shine Biscuits and reminding participants Bake Finishing of the importance of Oven type Convection, high fan the size of the cheese Time/temperature 0:18–0:20 at 350°F cubes in order to get a nice bite of cheese instead of it being MIX incorporated too : Fold in buttermilk by hand with the help much into the biscuit. of a bowl .

BREAD LINES – WINTER 2020 { 13 } 20/20 VISION RIGHT: Round, free-form focaccia with roasted garlic cloves. ADJACENT PAGE: ONE DOUGH, TEN PRODUCTS and dutchess rolls. Author, Sophia Gagakuma. Continued from cover

offered tips, answered questions on and left to rest. Why a technique, and shared best practices on pullman? This dough is how to achieve all ten products. rolled in cornmeal to create a unique texture, and baking Carrie Brisson is the head bread baker for it in pullman produces a the King Arthur Bakery. She has worked tighter crumb structure. at the bakery for nine years. Amber Eisler is the Director of the King Arthur Baking Next, a series of different School. Through The Guild’s Certification focaccias, consisting of Program, Carrie and Amber received several round focaccias and their Bread Baker Certification. Amber a sheet-pan focaccia. PRO TIPS AND BEST PRACTICES also received her Viennoiserie Baker The sheet-pan focaccia was 3.2 kg of Certification. : Though it’s a personal preference, the dough turned onto a floured board first ingredient to add to the mixing bowl So, what is this magical dough? ! for fermentation. For this particular should be water. Ciabatta dough, as Carrie describes it,“is product, there’s not much in the way of : Add prior to the autolyse. Yes, it’s slightly magical; it’s a really wet dough, pre-shaping. The dough went straight unusual. However, for ease of mixing, the and through a series of time and folds, from the scale onto a floured board for biga is added prior to the autolyse. you get just a really beautiful product… fermentation. : The DDT (desired dough temperature) simple yet really complex.” The formula The round foccacias, at 400 g each, were is 75°F. During the class, the final dough used in the class had a hydration level of handled differently. After scaling, each temperature was 74°F; again, “It’s nice 82% and was, in Carrie’s words, “wet but was rolled into a tight ball before being to be precise, but you don’t have to be manageable.” placed on a floured board to rest. These exact.” The class began with Carrie dividing were later used for sweet and savory : Set a timer to be consistent with your and pre-shaping dough that had been products. folds. mixed, folded, and rested. This dough : Know the temperature of your add-ins. Moving to the mixer, Carrie and Amber fermented while Carrie demonstrated the : If you’re unfamiliar with a mixer, proceed answered questions about the autolyse initial mix; later it was shaped and baked cautiously. For example, add the biga in of the dough. For this dough, it’s about so participants could see the full process batches rather than all at once. 20 minutes, but a pro-tip from Carrie was, from start to finish, including all 10 freshly : Using the autolyse reduced the “It’s nice to be precise, but you don’t have baked products. possibility of overmixing. to be exact.” : Add salt and instant yeast on top of the First: cranberry, raisin, and walnut The best part of the class for me was dough after the first mix (so you don’t ciabatta. Two kg of ciabatta dough was learning about mixing. Mixing this dough forget to add it before resuming mixing). mixed with one part each of cranberries, took less than 10 minutes, but in that time : If you’re using a planetary mixer, use the raisins, and walnuts. we got lots of tips on technique and best paddle attachment. Second: plain ciabatta pullman loaf. The practices. Here are a few of my favorites: : To get the dough out of the mixer, dip dough was pre-shaped into a tight ball your hands in water.

Fougasse

Cheese rolls with roasted garlic pureé and Asiago cheese. PHOTOS: WILHELM WANDERS UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED OTHERWISE UNLESS WILHELM WANDERS PHOTOS:

{ 14 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA One Dough, Ten Products CARRIE BRISSON & AMBER EISLER PHOTO: (R) SOPHIA GAGAKUMA PHOTO: King Arthur Baking School Norwich, VT Liaison: Wilhelm Wanders

NOVEMBER 10 After the final mix and the dividing of further discussed how to use a paddle dough into tubs to prepare for folds, to retrieve the dough and the proper Carrie demoed how to divide and pre- placement of the loaves in the oven. didn’t get any crumb shots, everything shape the remaining products. These PRO-TIPS ON HOW TO BAKE looked absolutely delicious. included plain ciabatta, pizza topped with kale and roasted sweet potatoes, : You don’t want to deflate your loaves “In bread baking, we're pretty specific. , duchess rolls (pull-apart before they go into the oven. We dial in our formulas, and we go by ciabatta rolls), and my personal favorite, : Don’t put too much dough in your percentages. But when it comes to the cheese rolls filled with roasted garlic and pullman loaf; you can blow the lid off. toppings and fillings, we’re much more topped with Asiago cheese. : Use semolina for baking; it doesn’t burn improvisational.” The possibilities are like cornmeal. endless with this dough, whether savory, Between dividing dough and final shaping, sweet, or plain. ✹ Carrie also demoed how to fold the dough. All products, except for the pullman loaf This dough gets 4 stretch and folds at and pizza, were baked at 20-minute intervals. 480°F with steam. Steam is optional with fougasse “How are you keeping the dough from but encouraged. The pizza sticking to your hands?” I am glad was baked at 480°F without someone asked, as I also wanted to steam, and the pullman loaf know the source of this wizardry. High- was baked at 445°F without hydration dough usually means a sticky steam. mess. Carrie’s pro-tips were “work decisively” and “use enough flour.” At the end of the class, all ten products were taken out This sentiment was echoed by Amber of the oven for a photograph when she took over 3 teaching and (although the pullman almost showed the class how to properly get the didn’t make it). While we shaped loaves ready for the oven. Amber

CLOCKWISE FROM MIDDLE: Pizza with kale pesto and roasted curried sweet potatoes, drizzled with after the bake. Sheet pan focaccia with caramelized onion, lightly roasted butternut squash, and chopped fresh sage. Raisin Cranberry and Walnut loaf.

BREAD LINES – WINTER 2020 { 15 } 20/20 VISION

A traditional ciabatta. CIABATTA Contributed by CARRIE BRISSON & AMBER EISLER

A versatile dough with many uses. Products produced in addition to Ciabatta include an Olive Rosemary Lemon Loaf, a Raisin Cranberry and Walnut Loaf, Round Focaccia, Pizza, Sheet Pan Focaccia, Fougasse, Dutchess Rolls, Pullman Loaf, and Cheese Rolls.

CIABATTA Total flour PROCESS – Ciabatta Total dough weight 20.000 kg fermented in biga 30.00% Preferment Biga TOTAL FORMULA BIGA FINAL DOUGH Mix Type of mixer Spiral Ingredients % Kilograms % Kilograms % Kilograms Bread flour* 100.00 10.799 100.00 3.240 100.00 7.559 Ferment Time/temperature 16:00 at 70°F Water 82.00 8.855 60.00 1.944 91.00 6.911 Final Dough Salt 2.00 0.216 3.00 0.216 Mix Type of mixer Spiral Yeast 1.20 0.130 0.10 0.003 2.00 0.126 Mix style Short-improved Biga 69.00 5.187 Hold Yeast and salt st Totals 185.20 20.000 160.10 5.187 265.00 20.000 1 speed 0:02 Autolyse 0:20 *11.7% Protein, .50% Ash Add Yeast and salt 1st speed 0:01 TEN PRODUCTS 2nd speed 0:04–0:05 All products were baked at 480°F in a deck oven, except for the Pullman loaf which baked at 445°F. Dough temperature 75°F All products were baked with steam except the Pullman loaf and pizza. Ferment Length of time 3:00 Product Divide Bake Time Notes Number of folds 4 Ciabatta 560 g 0:30 Timing for folds 0:20 Olive Rosemary Lemon 680 0:35g Incorporate 600 g , 8 g rosemary and zest of 1 lemon into 2 k dough. Raisin Cranberry Walnut 680 g0:35 Incorporate 145 g each dried cranberries, raisins and walnuts into 2 k dough. Round Focaccia 400 g 0:25–0:35 Garnish with roasted garlic cloves or caramelized onion. Bake 25 minutes if directly on hearth. Bake 30+ minutes if using round cake pan. Pizza 400 g 0:12 Garnish with kale pesto and roasted curry sweet potatoes. Drizzle with yogurt after bake. Sheet Focaccia 3.24 k 0:35 Garnish with caramelized onion, lightly roasted butternut squash and freshly chopped sage. Fougasse 400 g 0:20 Dutchess Rolls 1.5 k 0:35 Brush liberally with 50/50 mixture of and boiled cider. Yield: 36 rolls Pullman Loaf 1.4 k 0:45-0:50 Using a 13"x4"x4" loaf pan, bake 25 minutes with lid on, 15 minutes with lid off, remove from pan and bake an additional 5-10 minutes to firm up sides. Cheese Rolls 1 k 0:15–0:20 generous schmear of roasted garlic pureé on dough. Sprinkle with asiago cheese, roll up jelly roll style, cut into 100 g portions and space out on parchment-lined sheet pan. Yield: 10 rolls

2 k Olive loaf with kalamata olives, rosemary and lemon zest.

{ 16 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA ROOTS OF PIZZA Roots of Pizza Middle Eastern ANDREW JANJIGIAN Cambridge, MA Liaison: Melissa Rivard By ERIC PALLANT Guild Member, Author and Serious Home Baker ••• Meadville, PA

ive breads, two and a half hours, Before he started mixing his first dough, NOVEMBER 14 and no live audience: Andrew an Armenian Lahmajun, Janjigian Janjigian, a pizza professional, explained how early emigrants from formerF bread expert at America’s Test Armenia and Turkey settled in Greece, perk: slow Kitchen, and current bread blogger bringing their flatbreads with them. Greek fermentation (wordloaf.substack.com), demonstrated explorers later moved to with their delivers a lot how to make five types of Middle Eastern variant of Lahmajun, and in the city of more time flatbreads via Zoom. Naples they developed, in turn, one of the for flavors to world’s most prominent flatbreads: pizza. develop. Middle Eastern flatbreads are intricately That is one theory for the origin of pizza. woven into the history of wheat. Wheat Lahmajun, a kind At the very least, according to Janjigian, was first domesticated in The Fertile of Armenian Levantine flatbreads predate pizza, Crescent approximately 10,000 years ago, pizza, was first. probably by several thousand years. and the civilizations and societies of the A ten-inch round modern Middle East and Central Asia An ingredient common to all flatbreads, was topped with a thin film of ground remain bread cultures ten millennia later. , and loftier breads is patience. lamb spun in a food processor with Typically, Middle Eastern wheat is softer Janjigian's formulae began with an onions, red bell pepper, red pepper , and with lower protein content than the autolyse, ice water, and a negligible tomato paste, parsley, and Middle Eastern hard grown in America’s wheat amount of . Flour and water were spices. It, as were all the other breads, belt. Lower quantities of protein make mixed, formed into small balls, and sent was baked in a 500°F–550°F oven. In five for better flatbreads than they do high- right to a refrigerator for 24–48 hours. The minutes, it was baked, with a crisp bottom rise loaf breads. Using unbleached, all- cold retarding is essential, as it allows the that cracked when folded into thirds. purpose King Arthur flour (11.7% protein) dough to relax. As the dough becomes Janjigian recommended eating Lahmajun as his go-to, Janjigian demonstrated a few more elastic, it becomes much easier to sandwiched around a Middle Eastern salad of the myriad kinds of flatbreads baked in spread and stretch into a large thin disk. of fresh cucumbers, tomatoes, and olives. Lebanon, Turkey, Armenia, and Georgia. All that time in the fridge offers another Janjigian proposed a single, slightly sweeter formula for the flatbreads from Turkey, Lebanon, and Georgia. The second bread he made is a Middle Eastern standard: Man’oushe, a twelve- inch round coated with a paste of top-quality olive oil and za’atar. Za’atar is

Author, Eric Pallant.

Unstuffed Lahmajun made at home by Eric Pallant.

Andrew showing the bottom of the Za’atar manoushé, as requested by a participant. PHOTO: (L) ERIC PALLANT, (R) MELISSA RIVARD (R) MELISSA (L) ERIC PALLANT, PHOTO:

BREAD LINES – WINTER 2020 { 17 } 20/20 VISION a magical mixture of fresh thyme, sumac, salt, and sesame seeds, and is definitely much better if you purchase it in an Arabic market. Almost any bread dipped in fresh olive oil and za’atar will provide an incomparable treat, but Man’oushe fresh from the oven, with its olive oil bubbling and crust still steaming, is another thing altogether.

Third was a Georgian , a pirogue of dough filled with native Georgian cheeses. In America, the best approximation of the tang and chewiness of Georgian cheese is a mixture of feta and mozzarella. When the bread was removed from the oven, the yolk of an egg was mixed into the melted cheese, cooking it on the spot. By tradition, the bow, stern, and thick rolled edges are torn off and dipped in the rich mixture while the eater moans with satisfaction.

Bread number four was a cheese bread, flat and round like a pizza and topped with feta and mozzarella. Number five was Turkish pide, another canoe of cheese and salami with a butter-brushed dough, a butter-brushed crust, and a butter-doused topping. In truth, the number of Middle Eastern flatbreads and their fillings, after 10,000 years of development and experi- favorite for viewers anxious to mentation, is as countless as the number learn more. Roughly 30 people attended, of bakers. Cheeses and salamis differ from and Janjigian answered dozens of one valley to the next, and many a grand- questions as they arrived via zoom chat. mother learned her technique without The technology worked flawlessly — thank resorting to a measuring spoon or a scale

you, BBGA — and Janjigian deserves a full ERIC PALLANT PHOTO: that measured in grams. bakery’s worth of credit for his effective Andrew diving in to the Khachapuri adjaruli, a Geor- At the same time he offered his personal teaching from the confines of his own gian cheese bread, hot out of the oven. He likened it introduction to Middle Eastern flatbreads, kitchen with no one present beyond his to a fondue consistency. A close up of the Khatcha- Janjigian was hasty to point to several wife, a video camera, and a curious cat. ✹ adjaruli. Front to back: khachapuri, cheese bread, and man’oushe, made at home by Eric Pallant.

Pide, a Turkish , filled with pepper, egg, and cheese (left) and cheese and salami (right). Cheese and salami pide. ALL PHOTOS: MELISSA RIVARD UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED OTHERWISE UNLESS RIVARD MELISSA ALL PHOTOS: { 18 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA 20/20 VISION

LAHMAJUN Contributed by ANDREW JANJIGIAN

Lahmajun is a classic Armenian flatbread. A thin, rolled-out dough is topped with a spiced beef or lamb mixture. Some consider it a distant predecessor to modern pizza. RIVARD MELISSA PHOTO:

LAHMAJUN Total dough weight 0.769 kg TOTAL FORMULA Ingredients % Kilograms AP unbleached flour* 100.00 0.460 Water, ice 62.00 0.285 Salt 2.00 0.009 Instant yeast 0.13 0.001 Vegetable oil 2.50 0.012 Diastatic malt 0.50 0.002 Totals 167.13 0.769 Lahmajun topping As needed *11%–12% protein

LAHMAJUN TOPPING PROCESS PROCESS – Lahmajun : In food processor, process red bell Final Dough Yield Enough topping for 6–10 lahmajun pepper, onion, garlic, parsley, red pepper Mix Type of mixer Food processor Ingredients paste, allspice, paprika, salt, cumin, Add Flour, diastatic malt, 1 Red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, cut into 1" pieces cayenne, and pepper until smooth, and yeast 1/4 Onion, small scraping down sides of bowl as needed, Length of time Pulse until combined 1 Garlic clove Add With machine running, about 15 seconds. 1/4 cup Parsley leaves and tender stems add oil, followed by water : Break up lamb into small pieces, add to 2 Tbsp Mild Turkish red pepper paste Length of time Process 30 sec–1 min food processor, and pulse to combine, 8 1 Tbsp Tomato paste Rest 0:10–0:15 to 10 one second pulses. Add Salt 1 tsp Allspice, ground : Transfer to container, cover, and Length of time Process 45 sec–90 1sec tsp Sweet paprika refrigerate until needed (mixture may be Dough temperature <65°F 1/2 tsp Cumin, ground made up to 24 hours in advance). 1/2 tsp Table salt Serve with lemon wedges and/or a Shape Divide 120 g : 1/8 tsp Pepper chopped salad. Preshape Round 1/8 tsp Cayenne pepper Retard Time/temperature 24:00–48:00 at 38°F 6 oz Lamb, ground or 85% lean ground beef Ferment Time/temperature 1:00 at 72°F Lemon wedges, for serving Shape Shape 10" round Bake Oven type Home oven with stone/steel Top Lahmajun topping Time/temperature 0:04–0:06 at 500°F–550°F

BREAD LINES – WINTER 2020 { 19 } 20/20 VISION

SWEET & SAVORY EMPANADAS , or appetizer? All of the Above!

By EDNA COCHEZ Guild Member and Online Baking Instructor ••• Panama City, Panama

ay back in January 2020, I Chef, and who had experience creating it that people were excited to make it at explored the possibility of cooking videos. I had seen advertising for home. Now people were actually baking teaching on video; I had Masterclass on social media, so we began at home, more than ever, so I decided to recentlyW stepped away from my posi- to toss some ideas around. He said it was go ahead and make a video course, the tion as recipe developer in my wholesale the way of the future. I agreed, bought smallest viable product, using the Zoom baking company — long story — and I myself a Masterclass subscription, and platform to teach this bread. I called it had been devoting time to my blog and started giving shape to this crazy idea #ZoomBaking, and the name stuck. understanding where my love of teaching about people paying to watch me cook & When Mitch Stamm approached me baking could be put to work. I knew that bake. We agreed to talk again in February to teach a class for The Guild back people in Panama wanted to learn how to 2020 or as soon as my idea was more in September, he asked if I had done bake, because they always approach me concrete. Then the pandemic hit. something similar, to which I happily to teach them, but there were no schools In Panama City, we were under strict replied that I had! In fact, by that time devoted to the art and the few available lockdown orders; men and women went I had taught about 35 classes on Zoom spaces tended to have outdated informa- out different days of the week and only (no assistants, just me), from sticky buns tion and be out of touch with the current two hours per day, depending on their ID to Asian cooking classes, and Instagram trends. Language was a barrier too; most number. My sources of income had been Lives with colleagues in other countries, of the available material was in English. drastically reduced, and I needed to do among other fun initiatives. I had Understanding that need plus listening to something different, fast. I had developed developed my system, which entailed a why people couldn’t easily attend baking a recipe for a local bread called “pan ring light to brighten up my kitchen area, classes — lack of time, location, cost — I michita” that had been a mini sensation my son’s stool to set up my laptop at the believed I could find a solution. among foodies here — it resembles a right level, and a small tripod for my cell With that idea, I approached someone small French bread, torpedo shaped, and phone so I could set up a second camera with whom I had worked before on Top it was so hard to find bakeries making to film my work surface. Mitch specifically asked me to teach an class, a subject dear to my heart — empanadas were the backbone of my business when I managed it for 15 years. In fact, a couple of close friends called me the “empanada queen” — how I could I say no?

The difference here was that it would be my first course to an English-speaking audience, and with The Bread Bakers Guild; I was a bit nervous. I wanted to deliver a great course and make the experience worthwhile to all, even though I couldn’t ship ingredients. Rebecca calmed me down, saying “that’s OK, they’re there to learn, and that’s plenty!”

For the course itself, I proposed we cover two doughs and three different fillings; two savory and one sweet. The chicken filling was a classic Panamanian PHOTOS: COURTESY OF EDNA COCHEZ COURTESY PHOTOS:

A behind the scene look at Edna’s set up for her virtual class.

{ 20 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA Sweet & Savory Empanadas EDNA COCHEZ Panama City, Panama

NOVEMBER 19

Guava and cream cheese empanada. Edna explaining ingredients to participants.

mixture of a garlic & onion “sofrito” with a half an inch thick for each empanada, tomato paste, green olives and capers and dusted them with . So, so good. for an acidic and sweet contrast. The The best part of the course for me was meat version was my take on a Chilean being able to share such an iconic Latin empanada with a little cumin. During American staple with fellow bakers — for shaping, a slice of and a green us, an empanada is a snack, a meal, a olive is added. The cheese filling was a lunchbox item and even an appetizer if mix of our farmer’s type of cheese, salty made in a smaller version. With Mitch and firm, with cream cheese and a bit of acting as the moderator and asking egg, to avoid having it leak out; if you use me questions about our gastronomy, Ó N only farmer’s cheese, you end up with ingredients, and recipes, I enjoyed an empty looking shell of an empanada this cultural exchange and valued this which makes customers justifiably furious. connection to a community I don’t get to The sweet version is one of my all-time interact with as often as I wish. I’m trying favorite combinations for baked goods to change that, little by little, thanks to and one that was a perennial success for PIC GONZALO PHOTO: the continued support I get from The us—­ I used the cream cheese/farmer’s Guild, and now, having taught this course, cheese base here with guava paste sliced it feels closer than ever. ✹

Filling and shaping the Chilean-style Beef Empanadas.

BREAD LINES – WINTER 2020 { 21 } 20/20 VISION

FLAKY EMPANADAS WITH STEWED CHICKEN

Contributed by EDNA COCHEZ

A sample from the Sweet and Savory Empanadas demo, this easy dough can be ready in under an hour. Stewed chicken makes it a perfect lunch item.

FLAKY EMPANADAS PROCESS – Flaky empanadas WITH STEWED CHICKEN With Stewed Chicken Total dough weight 1.002 kgFinal Dough TOTAL FORMULA Mix Mix style Hand Ingredients % Kilograms Hold back Vegetable shortening, All purpose flour 100.00 0.473 butter and water Water, cold 38.89 0.184 Length of time Until combined Add Vegetable shortening Kosher salt 1.11 0.005 and butter Unsalted butter, cold, cut into 1/2" 0.179cubes 37.78 Length of time Until butter and shortening Vegetable shortening 30.67 0.145 are pea-sized Sugar 3.33 0.016 Add Water Totals 211.78 1.002 Length of time Until dough ball forms Stewed chicken filling* As needed Retard Sheet 2" thick rectangle MAKEUP Egg wash† As needed Refrigerate 0:30 : Place portion of chilled filling in the *See process notes middle of the circle, brush egg wash on †One beaten egg Makeup Divide 75 g the border of the circle of dough, and Shape 6" circle fold into half moon shape. Filling See process notes STEWED CHICKEN FILLING Bake Time/temperature 0:22–0:25 at 375°F : Season both sides of the chicken with salt and pepper. STEWED CHICKEN FILLING : Heat olive oil in a 12" skillet until shiny, Total weight 1.501 kgthen add seasoned chicken. Brown chicken on the first side, then flip to TOTAL FORMULA cook on the second side. Add chopped Ingredients % Kilograms onion, green pepper and garlic to Deboned chicken thigh* 100.00 0.700 chicken. Stir to combine, and cook Onion, finely chopped† 25.70 0.180 over medium heat until vegetables are Green pepper, finely chopped‡20.00 0.140 softened, approximately 6–8 minutes. White wine 17.90 0.125 : Add all remaining ingredients, stirring Tomato paste 17.10 0.120 to combine. Continue cooking over Olive oil 15.70 0.110 medium heat for 15–20 minutes. Turn off Capers 7.10 0.050 heat, remove chicken, and set aside until Green olives, pitted 6.90 0.048 cool enough to handle. Garlic, mashed with a pinch2.90 of0.020 salt** : Shred chicken by hand into small strips. Salt 1.00 0.007 (I recommend hand shredding for a Black pepper, ground 0.20 0.001 more authentic method, but it may be Above: Stewed chicken filling. Top right: Finished Totals 214.50 1.501 empanadas covered in demo: Guava with cream chopped with a knife.) Return shredded cheese, Chilean-style Beef and Stewed Chicken. Salt and pepper As needed chicken to skillet, stir well to combine, *6 deboned chicken thighs and adjust seasoning if needed. †1 large Always chill the filling before using it for ‡1 large : **4 garlic cloves empanadas.

{ 22 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA The BBGA’s yearly calendar, with the astonishing pictures of breads baked by our members, has become a most looked forward to item by many every year. Taking it a step farther, in this section we are including the formulas for some of the breads portrayed in the 2020 calendar. We hope you can also take it a step farther by recreating them in your preferred baking setting.

CASPAR COUNTRY SOURDOUGH Contributed by MISA PAT

PROCESS – Caspar Country Sourdough A European-style rustic sourdough blending organic white, whole Preferment Levain wheat and rye . This earthy, complex flavored 2 kg “Big Boule” Mix Type of mixer Hand or planetary mixer remains a popular staple of artisan French bakeries, where it is often Length of time Until incorporated cut to order and sold by the half, quarter or 100 g portion. Ferment Time/temperature 8:00–12:00 at 77°F

Final Dough Total flour Mix Type of mixer Spiral fermented in levain 5.88% Hold back Salt CASPAR COUNTRY SOURDOUGH Organic bread flour 6.91% 1st speed 0:08 Total dough weight 2.200 kg Organic whole dark rye 3.76% Autolyse 0:20 TOTAL FORMULA LEVAIN FINAL DOUGH Add Salt Ingredients % Kilograms % Kilograms % Kilograms 2nd speed 0:04 Total flour 100.00 1.143 100.00 0.067 100.00 1.076 Dough temperature 78°F Organic bread flour 80.88 0.925 95.00 0.064 80.00 0.861 Ferment Time/temperature 3:00 at 78°F Organic whole wheat 11.29flour 0.129 12.00 0.129 Timing for folds 1:00 Organic whole dark 7.82rye 0.089 5.00 0.003 8.00 0.086 Shape Divide 2200 g Water 82.35 0.941 200.00 0.134 75.00 0.807 Preshape Round Sea salt 2.35 0.027 2.50 0.027 Rest 0:20 Starter* 5.88 0.067 100.00 0.067 Shape Boule Organic wheat germ 1.88 0.022 2.00 0.022 Proofing device Banneton Levain 25.00 0.269 Retard Time/temperature 6:00 at 48°F at 65% Totals 192.47 2.200 400.00 0.269 204.50 2.200 relative humidity *95% organic bread flour, 5% organic dark rye flour, 50% starter, 50% water Proof Time/temperature 3:00 at 70°F Bake Oven type Deck Scoring Square or diamond cut, or decorative pattern of choice Stream 2 sec Time 0:20 with damper open, 0:10 with damper closed. Then 0:20–0:30 with damper open Temperature 466°F

n early version of our Caspar A Country Sourdough was originally developed by our first head baker, Philippe Garcia, a native of Lyon, when we opened our doors in October 2009. We wanted to include an authentic French-style country sourdough in our repertoire, Continued on page 25 PHOTO: TRICIA KUMP PHOTO:

BREAD LINES – WINTER 2020 { 23 } MEMBER NEWS

THE QUARANTINY OR — STARTER WHAT I DID PROJECT STORY ON MY COVID LOCKDOWN

ast March, on the second or I half-jokingly suggested we make the bread baking L third day of COVID lockdown recipe sourdough rather than yeasted being in large here in Massachusetts, my then- since that would at least eliminate the part a game of colleagues at Cook’s Illustrated magazine need for one hard-to-come-by ingredient. ratios — one and I were gathered together at a Zoom (Cook’s generally shies away from should be able staff meeting to discuss the progress of sourdough recipes, given all the moving to do the same our respective recipe-testing projects. parts involved.) But then I remembered thing on a One of the colleagues was about to begin that the average from-scratch sourdough micro-scale to working on an oatmeal dinner roll recipe, starter recipe — my own for Cook’s conserve flour for where it really mattered: and she mentioned having a hard time Illustrated included—requires a few the loaves themselves. finding both flour and yeast at her local pounds of flour from start to finish since As soon as the meeting ended, I put this supermarket (this was just before all of us one generally needs to “feed” the nascent idea to the test by combining 10 grams of became intimately acquainted with the culture once or twice a day with a cup or flour — an equal-part mixture of whole- meaning of “supply chain shortages”). so of fresh flour. It occurred to me that — wheat and bread flour — and 10 grams of water in a tiny mason jar, which I covered and left in a warm place to ferment. A day or so later, it was bubbly and fragrant, just as I’d hoped. I shared the results with the Cook’s Illustrated team at the next Zoom gathering, though I think I was the only one who found it at all interesting at the time.

I also posted a photo of it to my Instagram feed, with a brief description of what I’d done and why, and a catchy name: the “Quarantinystarter.” Later that day, the post got shared to the Instagram feeds for America’s Test Kitchen and Cook’s Illustrated, and it took on a life of its own.

Soon enough, other people began posting pictures of their own tiny starters, tagging them with #quarantinystarter. Within a week, more than 350 people were participating in the “project,” and after a month, at least a thousand, from places My own Quarantinystarter, a few days after its birth. as far afield as Australia and Malaysia. (I

{ 24 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA MEMBER NEWS PHOTOS: COURTESY OF ANDREW JANJIGIAN COURTESY PHOTOS:

Just a sampling of the breads people made with their Quarantinystarters. Continued from page 23

and this was it. Since 2014, Misael Pat, soon lost count.) An idea that began as for parents and teachers too. More than our current head baker, mastered the a lark had seemingly gone viral. Or, more a few reached out to say that they were bread and made it his own, including accurately, viral, fungal, and bacterial. including their students and/or young adding his creative scoring designs, children in the process, using it both as which are always delighting us and The Quarantinystarter Project didn’t just a teaching tool and a fun way to keep our customers alike. We also tweaked represent the possibility of baking bread stir-crazy kids otherwise occupied. A the name and the proportions of at home without access to yeast; it also few elementary school teachers even that first version over the years (our seemed to provide a welcome measure of mentioned building entire teaching-from- non-French customers kept wanting peace and distraction during an anxious home curricula around the process. to call our campagne sourdough and uncertain time. I received countless “champagne” bread!). grateful comments, messages, and emails Of course, a sourdough starter isn’t all about how the activity of minding and that useful unless it can be used to leaven As a small artisan bakery serving caring for their tiny starters gave people bread. The good news is that within just market and restaurant customers of a sense of purpose and joy that they a few weeks, many participants — myself rural Mendocino County in northern needed at that moment. included — began successfully baking California, we feel especially connect- with their baby starters. Many of them ed to the coastal communities of Fort And levity, too. Many participants gave used recipes that I published on an email Bragg, Caspar, Mendocino, Albion their starters clever, punny names. Among newsletter and blog, which I set up to them were Yeastie Boys, Courtney Loave, & Elk, where we have lived, cooked, quickly share information and field the Quarantiny Dancer, Quarantiny Turner, and baked for many years. So it felt many troubleshooting questions after Quentin Quarantino, Vincent Vandough, appropriate to pay homage to our doing so over Instagram became unwieldy. Holly Doughlightly, Otis Breading, home in the naming of our breads, (The newsletter, which can be found at Angelina Doughlie, Jar Jar Stinks, and thus “Caspar Country Sour- wordloaf.substack.com, has since become Adam Levain, Clint Yeastwood, Carrie dough,” drawing alliteratively on the a full-time concern, as I recently left Breadshaw, and Bread Astaire, to name hamlet of Caspar, located just south Cook’s Illustrated to more fully focus on just a few. of Fort Bragg where we walk our bread-baking instruction.) ✹ dogs nearly every day. The biology underlying the sourdough IG: @wordloaf starter creation process proved useful wordloaf.substack.com BREAD LINES – WINTER 2020 { 25 } MEMBER NEWS JAMISON B BREADHOUSE BAKES Tampa’s Fresh Bread Bakery

2010, two months before they where we supply all our amazing Tampa she had always hoped to own a business were to be married, Jamie chefs with fresh bread. Tampa doesn’t on 7th Ave in Ybor City. Additionally, Blue In “Blue” and Jason Laukhuf have that!!” Blue said, “OK, LET’S DO worked in hospitality for 27 years. Front traveled to Los Olas Boulevard in South THAT!!” And so the spark was born. of house operations, customer relations, Florida because Jason had scored a and management were her forte. In 2008, Jason received Culinary and Baking and stáge with the world renowned Gran Blue took a break from performing to slow Pastry degrees from Johnson & Wales Forno Bakery; known for their perfect down, get married and start a family. In University’s North Miami Campus in 2000. ciabatta bread. After an intense baking 2012, Jamie gave birth to Jamison Blue, His first official bread instructor was Chef weekend they headed home with fresh the company’s namesake. Kim Montello. While studying at JWU, bread that Jason helped bake and a gift he started working as a for After three amazing years at Bern’s, of Gran Forno’s 16 year old starter; as a chef Mark Militello at several of his South Jason began teaching Culinary Arts and token of their appreciation for his hard Florida restaurants. As the Executive Baking & Pastry at Keiser University’s work. When their car broke down on Pastry Chef at just 23 years old he was Sarasota campus. He went on to help the way home, instead of freaking out, invited to cook at the James Beard House them build their first ever Baking and Jamie grabbed that fresh bread and made in New York, to assist chefs Mark Militello Pastry program from scratch, where he sandwiches. There they sat on the side and Tim Andriola. Jason eventually left later became the Director and helped of the road, happy as could be, enjoying South Florida to move to Tampa to be build and grow the curriculum with Dean their impromptu fresh bread picnic. Jason closer to his Sarasota family, taking the Michael Moench. In 2014, inspired by looked at Jamie and said “I want to own prestigious job of Executive Pastry Chef a great logo idea Jason had of a giant a bread bakery with you one day. One at the award-winning Bern’s steakhouse rooster, Blue created Jamison B. LLC to in Tampa, Florida, where he later showcase her husband’s skills. Jason left met Jamie. Keiser University and Sarasota to go home and on-board as Head Baker of their little Jamie Laukhuf, known as “Blue”, bread business. was an EDM singer and freestyle dancer/choreographer in Ybor Jamison B is named after the Laukhuf son City. Then known as Jaime Z, Jamison Blue. His name is the combination of their names JAMIe and JaSON. The business started very small in 2013 with Jason just baking bread on the weekends for local chefs while still working as the Baking Director at Keiser University. This venture escalated very quickly and in 2014 Blue put together a business plan. They were able to secure a very small business loan after finding a 400 sq ft kitchen sublease in the heart of Ybor. There, they installed their discount oven and mixer and started baking. One account led to another and before they knew it, they had hit their target numbers and maxed out the small space in under two years.

In 2016, after turning down a few invest- ment offers, Blue decided to take things PHOTO: JAMIE LAUKHUF JAMIE PHOTO:

{ 26 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA MEMBER NEWS into her own hands and found an empty 3400 sq ft warehouse in Ybor City and got a loan four times the size of the first loan and proceeded to hire a team to help design and complete a full bakery build- out to become Jamison B Breadhouse 2.0. A project that was supposed to take 24 weeks took 56. It was a trying year, but we bravely made it through. Blue oversees all PHOTOS: COURTESY OF JAMIE LAUKHUF OF JAMIE COURTESY PHOTOS: business operations of the Breadhouse; she’s the business and Jason’s the baker. Being the CEO of Jamison B. has allowed Blue to return to her musical roots. Hop- ing to host more events at the Bakehouse post-Covid, they’ll be connecting music, design paired with Jason’s amazing menu art and baking! items, has likely saved the business since only 40% wholesale had returned as of With a staff of five or fewer, our mission Oct. 2020. We feel blessed. has been to bring the best product to our gluten intolerant community real the table by using only the best flours We are very active in donating to the bread, is truly special to our hearts. and grains with old world baking styles, community. Anything left over from Every year, Jason travels to California to never using preservatives. The Grain markets goes to the Tampa fire stations. hang out and learn from The Man, The Room at the Breadhouse is a temperature- We have donated so often that we always Myth, The Legend, Mike the Bejkr. He is controlled environment where our mill, joke and say that if we ever did have a fire so giving with his time and generous with organics and whole grains are stored. We issue, they would all jump to save us. his knowledge about baking with ancient use conventional flours for our wholesale We chose six local artists to do all of our grains. We love and respect him and hope accounts and primarily organics for our murals when we built Breadhouse 2.0 and that one day he will come to bake with us. weekend market sales. Our main source continually try to support the arts. We’ve Jason returned home from each of these for organic flour is Lindley Mills in North sponsored the holiday parade in Ybor CIty trips so hyped to get back in his bread Carolina. We use a lot of brown paper bag and the Pride Gala at the Tampa Museum lab. He would immediately take what he packaging to say that we wouldn’t put of Arts. For Jamison’s elementary school learned and manipulate all the formulas anything in your bag that we wouldn’t Blue has organized multiple donations to suit the Florida climate. Each time the put in our kid’s lunch bag. Good food. a year including back to school supplies bread gets better. His thirst for the perfect REAL FOOD. for Jamison’s grade level, Valentine’s Day sourdough is inspiring. Jason and the JB3 The wholesale products include: ciabatta cookies for the whole school, sourdough team pretty much perform bread magic in longs, mediums and smalls which we call boules for teacher appreciation, breakfast this heat and humidity. ciabattinis, long fermentation sourdough items for the Great American Teach-In Currently, our stuffed Japanese Milk Buns in different shapes and sizes, baguettes, and a monetary donation at the end of are all the rage. This would probably be American and French style brioche, the year. Annual events like the Friends classified as vienoisserie due to the sugar potato English , saltine crackers, of James Beard Sunday Supper hosted and fat content. They are a huge seller. We granola, , sweet cracked wheat by Bern’s steakhouse rank high as one of fill the Milk Bun with savory fillings. We sandwich loaves, Cuban loaves, and the team’s favorite charity events, raising started making milk buns for our whole- . Our market menu is a little money for the James Beard Scholarship sale accounts, usually for their chicken more exciting with various focaccias with funds. We hold this event close to our sandwiches. Of course, we taste test the toppings, stuffed Japanese Milk Buns and hearts with our Bern’s Family. products ourselves and one day we were amazing revolving pastries like crowd Our long fermentation are tasting this deliciously soft warm bun, favorites, the chocolate olive oil cake with really special because we are seeing and I said, “man, a sloppy joe would be so mascarpone frosting and various sweet not only an influx of gluten free patrons good on this.” So, we stuffed it and cre- and savory Kouign Amann. but also a wonderful family of regulars. ated “The Unsloppy Joe” aka “Tidy Joe.” In March 2020 when Covid-19 hit, we The Horrock Family, who has multiple It’s a hit at the market. After realizing how watched every account cancel all future members that suffer from Celiac, are popular they were, we started smok- bread orders and we were forced to able to eat our sourdough bread with no ing and doing different types of expand operations again. Blue designed digestive issues or flare ups. This is huge. sauces. We almost can’t take them off the a drive-by market that is all preorder, So above and beyond any wholesale we’ve menu. But why would we? Right? Try it for prepay and contactless pickup. This done, the fact that we are able to bring yourselves and let us know! ✹

BREAD LINES – WINTER 2020 { 27 } MEMBER NEWS MILK BUNZ Contributed by Jason Laukhuf

MILK BUNZ Total flour fermented Total dough weight 1.000 kg in preferment 13.94% TOTAL FORMULA PREFERMENT FINAL DOUGH Ingredients % Kilograms % Kilograms % Kilograms High gluten flour* 100.00 0.465 100.00 0.065 100.00 0.400 Water 37.07 0.172 265.02 0.172 Milk 46.98 0.218 265.02 0.172 11.58 0.046 Salt 1.98 0.009 2.30 0.009 Instant yeast 1.49 0.007 10.63 0.007 Butter 14.01 0.065 16.25 0.065 Sugar 13.99 0.065 16.25 0.065 Preferment 103.75 0.415 Totals 215.52 1.000 640.68 0.415 250.13 1.000 Egg wash* As needed *14% protein

PREFERMENT PROCESS – Milk Bunz : Bring water and milk to a boil. Preferment Turn off heat and vigorously mix in the Mix/ferment See process notes : flour. Final Dough : Cool the gelatinized mixture below 80°F. Mix Type of mixer Spiral : Mix in the instant yeast. Mix style Intense : Ferment 2:00–4:00 at 72°F or 12:00 at nd 2 speed 0:15, until shiny41°F. Ferment Time/temperature 0:30 at 72°F FILLING Shape Divide 100 g : The fillings should be precooked. Preshape Round : Once filled, seal evenly by hand, making Rest 0:10 at 41°F sure to avoid too much dough on the Shape 5" circles, see process notes bottom of the bun. Proofing device Parchment-lined sheet :tray The tops can be Proof Time/temperature 0:30 at 100°F sprayed with egg wash and topped Bake Oven type Convection with cheese. Time/temperature 0:12–0:13 at 450°F

{ 28 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA MEMBER NEWS BEING GOOD AT SOMETHING IN BAKING THAT’S NOT BAKING

By EMANUEL VILLA Guild Member, Not Too Serious Home Baker, and BBGA Formula Formatter hen I arrived in this country in W Nashville, TN 2006, knowing little English and recently married, I never thought my love for my career as a programmer would take me on a journey that would include baking bread, here to tell you my testimony of how a formatting formulas, and interacting with simple email to The Guild took me on an some of the most amazing people I ever incredible journey as a formula formatter, imagined, including famous book authors, a journey that I hope never ends. More international artisan bakers, great home importantly, it was a journey that took me bakers, and even fellow programmers. to a place where friendship, affinity, and a PHOTO: COURTESY OF EMANUEL VILLA COURTESY PHOTO: desire to standardize language come Years later, I began to take baking more together in a simple food item. seriously. In May 2017, I first heard of The positive first interaction with the assigned Guild after reading about it in a baking And so in June 2018, I reached out to editor from BBGA, made the experience book by Peter Reinhart, and I decided to Laverne Dicker (BBGA Director of Events something I just wanted more of. join. That is when my true baking journey and Communications, retired now) in a I have been so lucky that one of the started. As an engineer, I naturally lean brief email that just said, “I want to help. editors with whom I interact the towards technical things and puzzles; I I am no baker or cook, and only bake most, David Bergman, is an incredibly found myself fascinated by the world of 2–3 times per week. I am just a database responsive person. He created a baking, with all its formulas, techniques, programmer that wants to help.” And to wonderful system to edit the formulas terminologies, etc. I knew I had arrived my surprise, she replied with a posting quickly, and since he is also a programmer, at a new place in which I would stay for a from 2017 entitled, “Seeking Volunteer we have developed a synergy that makes while, a place that I now proudly call Formula Formatters.” Only 5 skills were us “a dynamic duo,” as our own Rebecca a home. needed, which had to do with Excel, Miller has said to us. On several occasions, algebra, bakers math, and attention to At the beginning of my BBGA we have tackled challenges that require detail. There was one that I felt I was membership, some of a member’s first a quick “just couple of hours” turnaround lacking in, “Good spelling and grammar.” interactions are probably through the time to meet printing deadlines for a I think that for non-native English email digest. I was immediately amazed formula. I have found that this Formatter/ speakers, this is always some inner fear, a at the camaraderie between bakers, Editor matching makes a great difference sort of nemesis that continuously haunts professional, and hobbyist. They were in formula editing work. Not that I didn’t our minds. Something that you can all happy to share experiences, give enjoy working with the other editors with probably grasp as you read this article. tips, and just share new things they had whom I have been assigned, but somehow discovered. I hadn’t found that in my In September of that same year, I was the “programming” connection I have other hobbies/societies, in which senior completing my training as a formatter. I with David has made every formatting members sometimes took a sort of didn’t do great, to be honest, but I did it. job a breeze. I have to admit that this is conceit in themselves and were selfish And in October, I had the great privilege something I am proud of. about techniques, knowledge, or tips. to work with a Spanish baker named I have had the great experience of This amazing and friendly community Beatriz Echeverria (La Cocina de Babette) chatting with some excellent bakers immediately prompted me to want to do on what will be my very first formatted and book authors. They sometimes more for The Guild than just paying my formula published in Bread Lines. The are amazed when I tell them that I am dues. But being a home baker, I was not nervousness, given the publishing a programmer, as I now manage the sure how. I know that other bakers have responsibility, was taking some toll on me. baking language well enough to stay out the same feeling when they join The Guild. But nevertheless, the fact that Beatriz was of trouble. I would love to share all the also a Spanish speaker and an incredibly I’ve heard others express that The Guild memories here, but I will mention just responsive person, together with my is not a place for home bakers; I am some of them.

BREAD LINES – WINTER 2020 { 29 } MEMBER NEWS

For one of the formulas I had to format, Two different I heard the business owner speaking in levains for the Ezekiel bread, Spanish to one of his bakers about how one with a mix thick the cornstarch mixture should be to of pinto, great finish the bread. The owner had the great northern and idea to put the Spanish-speaking baker kidney beans, and the other on the line with me so we could literally lima beans. speak the same language. So funny.

The next-most rewarding experience — with the first one being to directly interact with amazing bakers — is to have the opportunity to try their formulas in my home oven. I found this to be part of the formatting process for myself. For example, on one occasion, I noticed a percentage that seemed off, which I would that level as a baker. I need a thermometer formulas and why I got more involved with not have noticed if I had not been baking to tell when my bread is done, and there The Guild. Simply because I learned it and the bread. I immediately reached out to are actually bakers in this world who I love it, and I now know that I am good at the author, and she promptly told me, “I can tell when their bread is done just by something in baking that is not baking. will make a batch tomorrow to check on having it in their hands, feeling it, and On a couple of occasions, I have worked it and get back to you.” Her check proved smelling it. So humbling. with people I consider famous and who that there was a typo in the unformatted On one occasion, I talked to a baker who are my personal heroes, like Solveig Tofte. formula that was not obvious until we had previously worked as a programmer. I just could not believe that she was on both tried to bake it. This was the same He shared his experience on how the the phone with me. And I definitely could baker who asked me to send her a picture name of the bakery came to him based on not believe that she did not answer the after I baked another one of her formulas his programming experience — Bread++. phone with the usual “Hello” or “How can I and then congratulated me on how good If you are not in programming, you might help you?” but said, “Hi Emanuel, how are it looked. So nice. not get the name. But he also mentioned you doing?” as if she really was waiting Most of the time, when I get to talk to his philosophy for bread making, how he and looking forward to speaking with me. professional bakers, I am amazed at their did it the way he did it for his younger I had the opportunity not only to learn skill and knowledge. One time I asked a kids. And finally, he said something that about her formulas and her amazing bak- baker how long she baked her breads, and I will never forget: “You are a volunteer, ing but also to share experiences about she just told me, in the most natural tone right? So you don’t get paid, or get perks our families and the weather difference you can imagine, “Until they get the right or anything from The Guild? Then let me between Minneapolis (where she is based) color, aroma, and weight.” Inside myself, do some of this hard job, and I will send and Nashville (where I am based), and other than thinking that I was probably you a draft of what you are asking for in have a really good laugh together. not being clear with my question since I a couple of hours.” And he did. It might None of the formulas that I have ever had wanted the number of minutes in the sound strange to you, but at that moment, worked on have required my skill as a oven, I thought...I am so far from being on I realized why I do this job of formatting database programmer, only my little bak- ing knowledge and willingness to listen and help. If you, the reader, are up to this All the grains paragraph in this article and have found that go into yourself thinking that The Guild is not the Ezekiel for you or wondering about how you can bread using soya beans and contribute to The Guild, I humble myself purple barley. before you for such willingness and exhort you to reach out to The Guild. Because if you don’t have dough on your hands a given number of hours a day, you will likely be able to volunteer for doing some- thing else, just like me. I assure you the experience will be unforgettable, and you will treasure these moments forever.✹ PHOTOS: EMANUEL VILLA PHOTOS:

{ 30 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA MEMBER NEWS Ezekiel 4:9 Contributed by Emanuel Villa

There are lots of versions of Ezekiel bread out there, but I wanted one that was easy and good to experiment with and learn from, and I think this is it. This formula is so flexible that is the perfect companion if you want to get started on home milling and levains. It uses 100% whole home milled grains, if you want a different flavor, change all the beans to lima beans and use olive oil instead of coconut oil for a more Eastern profile. Want something different? Try using just soy or mung beans, even a combination of rice and wildrice if you really want to experiment. You can also do it in a direct method, just mix everything and keep an eye on the proofing time, or leave the yeast out and PROCESS – Ezekiel 4:9 do pure sourdough, just give it more time for proofing. For a more Preferment Levain Soaker advanced technique you can sprout some of the grains, dry them and Mix Type of mixer Hand Hand mill them. It will be fun to play with this formula. Use this bread as Time Until incorporated Until incorporated a snack or for fasting. I try to live on just this bread and water every Ferment Time/temperature 12:00–16:00 at 75°F 12:00–16:00 at 75°F Friday; it is fantastic.

Final Dough BEAN FLOUR Mix Type of mixer Hand : Any bean or combination. I mass, once you reach this Hold back Coconut oil suggest starting with pinto, stage pour it into the proofing Time Until incorporated great northern, and/or kidney. pan and spread it evenly. Add Coconut oil Time See process notes MIX PROOF : Is more a batter than a dough, : If you do this bread in a direct Proof Proofing device Oiled 8"x4" pan (see process notes) once you add the oil it will method, it usually proofs in Time/temperature 1:00–1:30 at 78°F–80°F become a coated cohesive under 30 minutes. Bake Oven type Home oven Time/temperature 0:45–0:50 at 375°F Total flour fermented in levain 30.48% Lentil flour 100.00% EZEKIEL 4:9 Hard white flour 100.00% Total dough weight 0.856 kg Bean flour 100.00% TOTAL FORMULA LEVAIN SOAKER FINAL DOUGH Ingredients % Kilograms % Kilograms % Kilograms % Kilograms Total flour 100.00 0.433 100.00 0.132 100.00 0.240 100.00 0.061 Hard red flour 29.12 0.126 52.50 0.126 Whole flour 26.35 0.114 47.50 0.114 Whole barley flour 9.24 0.040 65.57 0.040 Whole millet flour 4.85 0.021 34.43 0.021 Hard white flour 18.17 0.079 59.70 0.079 Bean flour* 7.49 0.032 24.60 0.032 Lentil flour 4.78 0.021 15.70 0.021 Water 80.36 0.348 100.00 0.132 90.00 0.216 Salt 2.08 0.009 14.75 0.009 Instant yeast 1.39 0.006 9.84 0.006 Honey 6.00 0.026 42.62 0.026 Starter 1.07 0.005 3.50 0.005 Coconut oil, melted 6.93or 0.030liquid 49.18 0.030 Soaker 747.54 0.456 Levain 439.34 0.268 Totals 197.83 0.856 203.50 0.268 190.00 0.456 1403.28 0.856 *See process notes

BREAD LINES – WINTER 2020 { 31 } STUDENT SPOTLIGHT Food and Finance High School

The Food Education Fund is an As an alum of Food Education Fund’s programs and a Food & Finance organization whose only criteria for High School graduate, as well as member of The Guild’s Diversity, Equity students to enroll is attending one of the & Inclusion committee, I am continuously inspired by students like public high schools they support. This Annalysse and Chayil. When I was a student at FFHS, I remember the includes Food and Finance High School, trials and tribulations they have detailed in their articles below. While High School of Hospitality Management, some of my own memories resurfaced when I first began as a student, I and the Brooklyn STEAM Center. They am heartened to see the amazing things Annalysse, Chayil, and the rest are dedicated to empowering their of their classmates are doing. The opportunities, education, resources largely BIPOC identifying community and mentorship that the Food Education Fund provides to empower of culinary arts focused students and students is invaluable and critical in helping young people who want to alumni and making sure they receive the enter the industry. Now, every time I get to work with Food and Finance same opportunities, same chances, and High School and Food Education Fund again, I am reminded that these same enrichment as their counterparts at students are paving a new path into the future of food and I cannot wait better-funded and largely-white schools to keep watching it unfold. across . — Jessica Eng, Guild Member and Baker

By ANNALYSSE MELENDEZ Culinary Student, Food and Finance High School — New York, NY

y culinary journey started time at the Ascension Culinary Institute, when I was in middle school. I an enrichment program made possible M was enrolled in an enrichment through the Ascension Church where program during the summer and after I took part in a rigorous eight-month school, and there was an abundance of program culminating in a gala to support programs to choose from. As a foodie, other aspiring culinarians. I was drawn to the cooking club. The At the same time, I was also going heavenly smell of burgers caught my through my high school selection process. attention and I said to myself “I would While reading through a thick high school definitely love one of those right now.” directory, I came across the one school I joined the cooking club, and my passion that was dedicated completely to the grew from there. culinary arts. After careful consideration I vividly remember an after-school event and visiting the open house we took which showcased everything the different a chance on the Food & Finance High clubs had been working on throughout School and wouldn’t you know it, I got the year. I told my mom about it and, accepted. Shortly after being accepted, being the supportive mother that she was, we went to an event held on campus she came; not knowing that I would be called “Zero Waste.” There, Junior year-round that allow me to dive into catering the event! I competed in a middle class students catered an event which building skills in the kitchen, expand school cook off and though my recipe highlighted their commitment to zero- my entrepreneurial knowledge and for a 45-minute Healthy Lasagna did not waste cooking and baking. This was my empower me to pursue my dreams. Their make the cut for the competition, I was introduction to the Food Education Fund, commitment to a student like me and not discouraged. In fact, I felt even more the nonprofit that supports schools like like-minded young aspiring chefs is a huge inspired to continue working at becoming the Food & Finance High School. The part of why you are getting to read about more skilled in the kitchen. I later spent Food Education Fund runs programs my journey right now.

{ 32 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA STUDENT SPOTLIGHT PHOTOS: COURTESY OF ANNALYSSE MELENDEZ OF ANNALYSSE COURTESY PHOTOS:

As a participant in Food Education Fund programs, I had the recent pleasure of participating in their virtual series called Tembleque Student x Chef Cook Offs. Students like me were able to teach established chefs Contributed by ANNALYSSE MELENDEZ our own recipes. I developed a recipe for Tembleque, a Puerto Rican coconut because I hold this near A coconut pudding originally from Puerto Rico, this and dear to my heart, as it is part of my treat is easy to make and delicious with fruit. Puerto Rican heritage.

While in school, I had the wonderful TEMBLEQUE PROCESS – Tembleque opportunity to shadow my mom at her job Total dough weight 1.189 kgFinal Dough at The Pierre. The first thing I immediately Mix Type of mixer Hand noticed was the ratio in the kitchen of TOTAL FORMULA Ingredients % Kilograms Comments See process notes men to women. Did you know I could Water 100.00 0.341 actually count the number of female chefs Makeup Garnish Cinnamon and fruit Evaporated milk 100.00 0.341 on one hand? I learned a great deal from my three days there. As an aspiring young Coconut milk 66.56 0.227 MIX female pastry chef, I was envisioning a Sugar 44.57 0.152 Combine half of the water with the kitchen filled with all kinds of nationalities, 33.43 0.114 : cornstarch in a small bowl or cup; mix cultures, and genders, so those three Lime zest* 1.84 0.006 together until smooth. Set aside. days were an eye-opener. I’ve been told Vanilla 1.47 0.005 In a medium-sized pot, combine the by many women chefs that this is not an Coconut extract 0.59 0.002 : remaining ingredients, holding back the easy career to get into but I’m optimistic Salt 0.18 0.001 cornstarch slurry. Whisk on medium high that in my lifetime this will change! As a Totals 348.64 1.189 heat until well combined. Latina and aspiring pastry chef, I would Cinnamon As needed Stir the cornstarch and water mixture love to be part of that movement and be Fresh fruit† As needed: just prior to adding to the pot. Slowly an inspiration to other young women who *1 lime or other citrus fruit add the slurry, mixing until there are no share my passion. I have already started †Chef’s preference clumps and texture is pudding-like. experimenting with recipes that are near Pour the mixture into a bowl or molds and dear to my culture and heart. My : of choice. Cover with plastic wrap, and plans after I graduate high school are to refrigerate for 2 to 24 hours. go onto college and attend school in New York City. If I have the privilege of getting a scholarship, I might just leave the city for college. If I stay local, then I may travel abroad after I graduate. My true dream is to travel the world and learn about new dishes, new cuisine, and desserts. ✹

BREAD LINES – WINTER 2020 { 33 } STUDENT SPOTLIGHT Food and Finance High School

By CHAYIL HYLAND Culinary Student, Food and Finance High School — New York, NY

eated in front of the hot oven, the making sure each one yellow light faintly shone through was precise. I wasn’t S the glass and onto my shiny the fastest or even the forehead. Are cookies supposed to bake best in the class, but I for this long? I pondered. At 12 years took joy in perfection. old, this was the first time I had baked Sophomore year came something from scratch. I had helped my quickly and as I looked mom around the kitchen countless times, at my schedule, I saw memorizing basic dinner recipes, but we the words I disliked the never really baked anything. At least not most: BAKING. All my from scratch. An hour had passed and friends were excited, these strange cookies were starting to and I was the odd one look rather dark. As I pulled them out, I out, feeling like my realized that I had failed miserably. They baking abilities were had spread into one another making nowhere up to par with one unrecognizable mass of burnt, hard, theirs. After I sat in the dough. “They look, good sweetie!” My lectures and wrote a mother exclaimed. She was obviously just few notes, it was finally trying to encourage her child, but I didn’t time to begin baking. believe her. Maybe baking just isn’t for Our first assignment: me I thought over and over again. Days cookies. I dreaded and weeks went by as I continued making the thought of messing up again and savory dishes for my family, trying not kitchen, I learned something new - one embarrassing myself in front of all of my to think of my inability to make a simple of the most memorable things was being friends who were so much better than me. cookie. By the time I was 14, I had already able to crack an egg with one hand. I But I tried. Measuring each ingredient to decided that culinary would be the best never saw myself as a baker but working the T, I combined everything and carefully route for me — dinner was something I really opened my eyes to how fun it could scooped out a dozen chocolate chip never messed up and in my mind, I just be. I was able to use my perfectionist cookies. Perfect. After 15 minutes, it was wasn’t good enough to be a baker. tendencies for good as I measured out time to pull them out of the oven. They the perfect amount of sugar for a batch of As I grew older and became a freshman were perfectly round cookies; perfect muffins, or yeast for a few loaves of bread. at Food and Finance High School, my color and perfect chocolate distribution. I asked questions about everything and perspective of food changed completely. I started smiling as the chef pulled out even took notes on individual ingredients Everyone I talked to was just as obsessed my sheet tray, but that smile disappeared and their properties. The science of how with food as I was, and I felt as if I was just as quickly as it had shown up. They different ingredients acted under certain finally home. As we went around the were not perfect. In fact, they did not even circumstances intrigued me as well as room introducing ourselves, the same spread. I looked back at my recipe and the need for precision and patience. phrase caught my attention. “I want to realized that I had used baking powder Eventually, I became more efficient and be a baker,” one student said. “I want instead of baking soda, even though more knowledgeable on a plethora of to own my own bakery,” said another. I everything else was measured perfectly. different ingredients and techniques. I had could never be a baker I thought to myself Maybe I’m not a bad baker, I thought, I’m finally found my niche in the kitchen. again, remembering the smell of the burnt just bad at making cookies. cookies I made years before. “I want to be Junior year was filled with an abundance In May of my sophomore year, I had the Executive Chef at my own restaurant” of opportunities from the Food Education started my first job in a restaurant. I exclaimed proudly — writing Executive Fund, our nonprofit that supports the Originally, I was to be mentored by one Chef Chayil on all of my class materials. Food and Finance High School, and my of the sous chefs, but I took a risk and I was so set on that idea of being a chef classmates. It was the Colavita Culinary decided to work in the pastry department that I spent extra time on my knife cuts, Competition, a cooking challenge that had instead. Every single day in the pastry

{ 34 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA STUDENT SPOTLIGHT a prize trip to Italy. The competition rules were to make a dish highlighting , Basil, Olive Oil, and Balsamic vinegar. My teammate and I decided to do a dessert Polenta Cookie — something unique that would separate us from the rest. With our mentors, we Contributed by CHAYIL HYLAND were able to formulate a recipe and a solid plan for our dish. What was it you ask? An olive oil sundae with polenta This quick and easy corn cookie is sure to be a delight crumble, strawberry balsamic compote, for everyone who bakes and eats it. basil whipped cream, and a crisp polenta cookie. Yes, a polenta cookie. The POLENTA COOKIE dreaded cookie was back again, but I PROCESS – Polenta Cookie wasn’t going to allow it to haunt me into Total dough weight 0.361 kgFinal Dough losing. I worked day and night perfecting TOTAL FORMULA Mix Comments See process notes this cookie, making sure I executed all Ingredients % Kilograms Bake Time/temperature 0:15–0:18 at 325°F of the steps precisely. The day of the Total flour 100.00 0.190 Let cool 0:03 competition came, and the cookies were Pastry flour 60.00 0.114 baked with ease. In fact, they were the Corn meal* 40.00 0.076 best I’d ever made. My teammate and I Salt 1.05 0.002 MIX ended up winning, and that was the first Butter 60.00 0.114 : Cream butter with sugar, vanilla and time I thought of myself as a baker. I still Sugar 26.32 0.050 salt. Add remaining ingredients and mix wasn’t perfect, but I loved it. Vanilla 2.63 0.005 thoroughly to form a loose dough. Now as a senior, I have my eyes set Totals 190.00 0.361 : Scoop half tablespoon portions, and on attending the Culinary Institute of Flaked sea salt As needed roll in sugar. Flatten, then sprinkle with America. My goal is to complete my Sugar As needed flaked sea salt and place on cookie sheet. Bachelor’s in Food Service Management *Polenta with a focus on Baking and Pastry Arts. After that, I hope to open my own bakery, featuring gourmet versions of the snacks and treats I grew up enjoying.

I find myself baking with every chance I get. And yes, I bake cookies, too. It’s hard to grasp that over time, something I wanted nothing to do with ended up becoming my greatest passion. Food really just holds that much power. Not only is it something we need to survive, but it is a way for us to communicate. We share food through cultures, exchanging the stories and experiences that make us who we are. Food to me is also a way to express myself. If I’m angry I’d punch some dough and make some brioche. If I’m in a good mood, I’d dance while making chocolate cake. But ultimately, food is PHOTOS: COURTESY OF CHAYIL HYLAND OF CHAYIL COURTESY PHOTOS: love. Food isn’t just for the one making it, it’s for everyone to enjoy; putting time and effort into each dish and making sure that whoever eats it has a delightful and unforgettable experience. ✹

BREAD LINES – WINTER 2020 { 35 } INDUSTRY NEWS ARTISAN GRAIN COLLABORATIVE NEIGHBOR LOAVES ave you ever looked forward to a there in Puget Sound — between baking are distributed to food pantries. Alyssa Zoom meeting? How about one classes and regional grain brainstorming worked with Brianna Fiene, Value H slated to last three long, virtual sessions — my intersections with this Chain Coordinator with the University hours? In a year of impossible realities, emerging project began. of ’s Center for Integrated this unlikely occurrence happened in Agricultural Systems, to develop this I live in upstate New York, decidedly August, when more than 60 members of initiative. They coordinated connections not the Midwest, but my interests in the Artisan Grain Collaborative (AGC) to food pantries so that bakeries would and knowledge of national projects is assembled for our 2020 annual meeting. It not face this logistical barrier when pertinent to AGC. As I’m working on was irrefutable evidence of the dedication considering whether to participate. My education and outreach initiatives — and and engagement among the more than past experience running a food pantry now communications — I often say that 100 groups and individuals involved in this was useful in establishing protocols, and I I’m used very well by this organization, upper-Midwest effort. helped out wherever writing was needed. and I mean that in the best way. All jobs The bulk of the work went to the bakeries. I have been working with AGC for a few should be so rewarding. They integrated Neighbor Loaves into years now. The network of grain-based My favorite project with AGC began this their online platforms and figured out businesses, researchers, advocates, spring when Executive Director Alyssa how to balance one more thing in their and other stakeholders invested in Hartman hatched a plan to support repertoire, as wholesale orders and retail regionalizing grain production began in farms, mills, and bakeries during the situations vanished in early Covid. Chicago. I encountered one of its founders pandemic. As everyday life shuttered tight at the Young Farmers Conference at Stone I can’t get over what a perfect fit this in quarantine, Alyssa put her mind to the Barns Center in New York when I was solution was. The emergency food system problem of keeping the regional grain giving a talk about regional grain systems. was suddenly dealing with more than chain moving. Luckily for me, Publican Quality Bread’s the standard emergency of people not head baker Greg Wade, a founding AGC Her brainchild is Neighbor Loaves, a having enough money for food. Food member, attended that talk. We chatted method for bakery customers to banks and food pantries had their own afterward, and I encouraged him to go purchase donation loaves made from supply chain crises, as people began to the Cascadia Grains Conference the local flour. Bakeries make the bread cooking at home and supermarkets had following month. Although he couldn’t using a percentage of local grains; they less food to donate, particularly bread. go, his AGC colleague could, and out receive the full price, and the loaves Farmers were putting grain in the ground, a leap of faith, planting crops when no one knew what the economy would be at harvest. Likewise, small-scale mills needed the assurance that grain was imminent, and bakeries were facing a completely revised landscape. As it turned out, flour mills were able to secure markets due to the logjams within the conventional flour system. Milling was upended, mostly in the packaging capacity for “family flour,” destined for supermarkets and consumers, as opposed to larger bags of flour destined for commercial baking

PHOTOS: COURTESY OF AMY HALLORAN COURTESY PHOTOS: operations. A bittersweet success of

{ 36 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA INDUSTRY NEWS

COVID-19 was that so many people discovered fresh flour simply because the usual wasn’t available.

HEWN Bread in Evanston, , lost 70 wholesale orders overnight when Chicago closed restaurants and bars. Owners Ellen King and Julie Matthei had already been fielding questions from customers asking how they could help the bakery. No sur- prise then that HEWN was one of the first three bakeries to participate. The other two were ORIGIN Breads and Madison Sourdough, both based in Madison, WI. Muddy Fork Farm & Bakery in Blooming- In the Midwest, corn and soy are the boosting farms’ bottom lines and limiting ton, , joined shortly after. dominant crops, and these grains either the environmental impact of the existing feed animals or automobiles. This region cropping systems. Plus, maybe there’s More than 20 bakeries have participated has impressive soils, worth thousands of some pride to be earned in putting the in the program in the Midwest. After dollars an acre because of their farming Midwest back in the breadbasket! AGC shared its idea on a national call potential. Farms in the Northeast, by with regional grain groups, adaptation Our professional baker network is ever- comparison, seem to be growing as many followed, and bakeries connected to the growing, so if you are in , rocks as plants! The corn/soy habit is Northeast Grainshed as well as many in Wisconsin, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Ohio, or dominating the Midwest — and much got involved. , please reach out to us. Members of the whole country — because of the of AGC are working together and alone on As this newsletter has a readership of constraints of commodity marketing and changing the way grains are grown and bakers, I know that generosity is in your a hundred other barriers constructed over used, and like so much of food change habit and work, and that many bread the past half-century. Most Midwestern work, this means building relationships. donation programs helped folks all around grain farms sell their farm goods by the We would love to meet you and figure North America and the world. What’s semi load, and this leaves little control for out how we can intersect. We want to see unique about this plan is that the loaves farmers over everything from seed variety what you need and discover how to build were made with at least 50% locally grown to selling price. Even organics or crop strong grain systems together throughout and ground grain and that consumers had rotations — the habit of growing different our geography. a platform to support local grains and crops on the same ground each season to flour while also helping their neighbors. provide a break from diseases and pests — But our work stretches beyond the are difficult for many farms to incorporate. Midwest. Collaborative is in our name, In an ideal world, this kind of tightly The farmland is too valuable to tolerate and we take that seriously, welcoming networked interchange between farms less valuable crops — for example, bread grains-focused folks to connect with us and eaters would be the norm. In a better wheat — so the farms are locked into a and contribute to and learn from our ef- world, bakery customers wouldn’t have two-crop cycle. Yet as export markets forts. A few other local grains champions to be sustaining neighbors or farmers have gone upside down and commodity from elsewhere are members of AGC, and because government support for farmers prices have gone down and wild, more until too many outsiders storm down the would be directed to regional supply farmers are interested in getting off the virtual doors, we’ll keep them open. We chains. In the best world, everyone could corn/soy and commodity cycle. Farms are connect wherever we can, with partners afford to buy their own bread or bake eyeing direct-marketing, food-grade grain like Chatham University’s CRAFT, which their own bread because they would be farms to see how this model works. hosted the Grains & Revolution confer- well compensated for their work or taken ence on November 5th, and Maine Grain care of if they could not work. Farms AGC supports opportunities to convert Alliance, which held the second Commu- would be thriving without the props of those fields of animal grain in the Midwest. nity Bake Day on October 16th. We have insurance and other market insulations. Of course, not everyone is ready to start a virtual home-bread-bakers’ group, and Yet these are my pie-in-the-sky dreams, up a mill or a malthouse. But even so, we anyone from anywhere is welcome to join not the daily realities of our current farm can help diversify the corn/soy farms this casual monthly meeting. and food systems. But with AGC, I do by developing markets for food-grade get to bring that pie out of the sky and grains. Strong local markets for wheat, Toward this end, AGC is excited to scheme up ways to help support farms barley, and other baking and brewing/ collaborate with BBGA. We’re not sure yet that are going out on a limb and growing distilling grains encourage farmers to what our exact shared projects will look bread grains in an area formerly known as grow these crops. This isn’t just about like, but I think they will be fun. So, stay the breadbasket. getting groovy local food rolling, but tuned and keep baking! ✹

BREAD LINES – WINTER 2020 { 37 } INDUSTRY NEWS

By THOMAS TEFFRI-CHAMBELLAND Author and Baking Instructor Saint Martin, France

Sourdough Panettone and Viennoiserie is The “Practice” chapter discusses basic including panettone, croissant, brioche, a comprehensive treatise on the subject ingredients, tools, and techniques and kouglof. It also contains participation of sweet leavened doughs fermented and provides concrete and essential and recipes from renowned bakers such as with natural leaven, written by Thomas information as to sources and suppliers. Ezio Marinato, Mauro Morandin, Alfonso Teffri-Chambelland, founder of École This section also covers steps that guide Pepe, Daniel Jorda, Miquel Saborit, Internationale de Boulangerie. The book the reader through the entire process, Christophe Louie, Emmanuel Revuz, and is divided into three main parts: Theory, from managing the sourdough through Roy Shvartzapel. Practice, and Recipes. mixing and shaping to ways to make The book was simultaneously released candied fruits. The “Theory” chapter provides a in French, English (prefaced by Chad hitherto unpublished understanding of Lastly, the “Recipes” section includes Robertson), and Spanish (prefaced by the phenomena involved in naturally over twenty detailed sourdough recipes, Ibán Yarza). ✹ fermented sweet doughs: the evolution of the bacterial flora during manufacturing, the role of minority bacteria, and the production of dextrans, among other subjects, over which several scientific studies have shed new light. The book also presents the basics of a “universal method” that will allow bakers to create their own formulas for sourdough .

Reprinted with the permission of Bread- France SAS PHOTOS: COURTESY OF THOMAS TEFFRI-CHAMBELLAND OF THOMAS COURTESY PHOTOS:

{ 38 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA INDUSTRY NEWS

CROISSANT

Contributed by THOMAS TEFFRI-CHAMBELLAND

PROCESS – Croissant Preferment Mix Type of mixer Planetary Mix style Improved Hold back Butter 1st speed 0:08 Add Butter 1st speed 0:06–0:08 Dough temp 79°F–82°F

Ferment Time/temperature Uncovered 0:12–0:14 at 78°F

Final Dough Mix Type of mixer Spiral Despite being an symbol of French food, the croissant is a Mix style Improved relatively new product. The first croissants were sold in Paris Hold back Salt between 1837 and 1839, when Austrians August Zang and Ernest 1st speed 0:06 Add Salt Schwarzer opened their Viennese bakery at 92 Rue de Richelieu. 1st speed 0:02 It was not until the second half of the 20 th century that the Dough temp 79°F–81°F croissant became an extremely popular French breakfast product Rest 0:10 which is now popular worldwide. Inspired by Italian baking and Prep détrempe Divide 3.2 kg balls panettone makers, the distinctive sourdough croissant is an even Proofing device 16"x24" tray newer product. Time/temperature 4:00 at 79°F Sheet 16"x24" rectangle Refrigerate 1:00 at 28°F CROISSANT Prep Roll-in Soften Plasticize using any Total dough weight 4.685 kg method Total détrempe weight 3.718 kg Bread flour 66.87% Laminate Fold 2 double folds followed TOTAL FORMULA PREFERMENTED DOUGH FINAL DOUGH by a Ingredientssingle fold % Kilograms % Kilograms % Kilograms Refrigerate 0:30 at 32°F–34°F Bread flour 100.00 1.509 100.00 1.009 100.00 0.500 Makeup Sheet 5 mm–6 mm Water 26.75 0.404 40.00 0.404 Cut Triangles with around Egg yolk 17.55 0.265 20.00 0.202 12.60 0.063 3" base Egg by 8" 16.57 high 0.250 50.00 0.250 Shape Croissant Salt 1.99 0.030 6.00 0.030 Finishing Egg wash Starter 33.43 0.505 50.00 0.505 Sugar 33.37 0.504 40.00 0.404 20.00 0.100 Proof & Bake Proofing device Baking sheet Time/temperature 12:00–16:00 at 79°F Butter 16.72 0.252 25.00 0.252 with 50%–60% Prefermented humiditydough 555.00 2.775 Finishing Egg wash Totals 246.37 3.718 275.00 2.775 743.60 3.718 Oven type Convection Unsalted butter 26.00* 0.967 Bake 0:20 at 350°F Egg wash† As needed

Damper open Last 0:05 *Based on détrempe weight †200 g egg and 100 g cream

BREAD LINES – WINTER 2020 { 39 } INDUSTRY NEWS

TIPTREE WORLD BREAD AWARDS BREAD HEROES USA 2020

TIPTREE WORLD BREAD AWARDS USA, SUPPORTED BY THE AMERICAN BAKERS ASSOCIATION WAS NOT DEFEATED BY THE RESTRICTIONS IMPOSED DUE TO CORONAVIRUS. IN NORMAL TIMES, THE AWARDS CELEBRATE THE LOAF. FOR 2020, THE AWARDS RECOGNIZED THE PEOPLE BEHIND THE LOAF, THE BAKERS, MILLERS, FARMERS AND ALL OTHERS CLOSELY INVOLVED. Did You Ever Know That You’re My Hero?

NATE HOUGH Guild Member and Owner/Operator, Brake Bread — St. Paul, MN

No, YOU’RE the wind beneath my wings. share program they cover ⅓ of the bread You being you lets me be me. I would love we donate. We partnered with Move to be a community kitchen and feed folks Being the Midwest recipient of the Tiptree Minnesota last summer to offer organized for free. But I don’t know how. Lucky for Bread Heroes Award is both unexpected ‘slow roll’ bike rides. They had a $300 food me, Brian down the street does and he and humbling. It has a real ‘you make budget which means we got to hand needs bread to do it. That’s what I know the dough and I get the glory’ vibe. out free pizza after the ride. A group of how to do. Play to your strengths. It sets Nonetheless, upon receiving the award I retirees do all our free bread distribution. people free. decided to show up at work in a leotard It takes time and community, but there and cape, like all great superheroes do. Reevaluate your process. With the are resources out there. Turns out the leotard made everyone pandemic, our lobby is too small to safely uncomfortable, most notably myself, continue with retail. We closed it and and capes and mixers don’t mix. 2020 MIDWEST HERO moved back to 100% subscription- So now my hero costume looks a based bike delivery, which is how lot like yours. White shirt smudged we started in 2014. We’ve moved with cocoa powder, flour caked NATE HOUGH to zero food waste. There’s no shoes, and a few oven ‘memories’ ambiguity around retail numbers. on my forearms. This costume makes We make exactly what we need to make sense, because as far as I’m concerned, and then add about 10% overage for we’re all bread heroes. donations. Now we get to send fresh bread out to shelters and community At Brake Bread we are learning what kitchens every morning. And on Saturdays it means to be generous in a time we have a community table in front of the of scarcity. It’s not easy to practice shop where folks can help themselves to abundance when you’re also trying to free bread. make payroll and timing your credit card payments with your rent check, but we’re Brake Bread is a very special bakery to me. figuring it out. Here are a few things I get to show up every day and work with we’ve learned along the way. Perhaps heroes. And then I get to check in with all they’ll inspire an idea or two for you. of you on the forums and learn from the best. I’m grateful that we’re in this hero Identify your assets. As a staff, list them work together. And that none of us has to all. Start with the obvious (flour, water, wear a leotard to prove it. ✹ salt, oven) and then keep digging. We see our customers as assets. Through our loaf

{ 40 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA INDUSTRY NEWS

Contributed by GATEWAY NATE HOUGH

Gateway was inspired by The Total flour GATEWAY fermented in levain 11.94% Bread Lab’s The Approachable Total dough weight 11.100 kg Whole wheat flour 20.00% Loaf, but I didn’t like calling one TOTAL FORMULA LEVAIN FINAL DOUGH of our breads approachable since Ingredients % Kilograms % Kilograms % Kilograms that inferred the rest were not. So Total flour 100.00 5.890 100.00 0.703 100.00 5.186 Gateway. We are currently milling in Fresh milled whole 60.00wheat 3.516flour* 100.00 0.703 54.24 2.813 house Emerson wheat. I’ve noticed Fresh milled high extraction flour*2.344 40.00 45.20 2.344 hydration varies considerably Malted barley flour† 0.50 0.029 0.56 0.029 depending on the type of wheat Water 76.00 4.454 100.00 0.703 72.33 3.751 and type of mill used. Salt 2.00 0.117 2.26 0.117 Sugar 5.00 0.293 5.65 0.293 Starter‡ 2.40 0.141 20.00 0.141 Sunflower oil 3.50 0.205 3.95 0.205 PROCESS – Gateway Preferment Levain 29.83 1.547 Mix Type of mixer Hand Totals 189.40 11.100 220.00 1.547 214.02 11.100 Length of time Until incorporated *Preferably Emerson wheat †Can use diastatic malt Ferment Time/temperature 12:00–16:00 at 75°F ‡Same composition as levain

Final Dough Mix Type of mixer Spiral Mix style Improved 1st speed 0:05 2nd speed 0:02 Dough temperature 82°F

Ferment Time/temperature 2:30 at 72°F–75°F Mix Fold 0:50, 1:40 Shape Divide 720 g Preshape Boule Rest 0:15–0:30 Shape Loaf

Proof Proofing device 4"x8" loaf pan Time/temperature 18:00–20:00 at 39°F

Bake Oven type Deck Steam 0:03–0:05 Time/temperature 0:35 at 500°F Damper open Last 0:15 PHOTOS: NATE HOUGH NATE PHOTOS:

BREAD LINES – WINTER 2020 { 41 } INDUSTRY NEWS

ABIGAIL CARTER Guild Member and Student, International Culinary Institute — Myrtle Beach, SC

What was the catalyst that sent you to to someone. It means that a mom can sense of comfort those items could culinary school / turned your focus to provide sandwiches for her children to provide amid the chaos. As soon as I bread? eat, that a dad can confidently prepare heard that the food distribution system Just before my high school graduation, I dinner for his family, and that a neighbor was out of bread and people were in need, owned and operated my own bakery in can show compassion to the person next I made a trip to our local restaurant supply Reidsville, NC. But I longed for something door. Baking bread is so much more than store, picked up a few 50 lb bags of flour, more regarding my knowledge and just flour, yeast, and water. It’s a smile yeast, and some assorted ingredients, and technical skill. Culinary school was the when a child opens a lunch box, it’s a started baking. next step into the “something more” that laugh shared around the family table, and I was raised in a community where people I was seeking. I felt that I had reached tears shed over the kindness of strangers. help each other without question. This my potential based on what I could teach Bread is more because it provides an taught me that any time you can bring myself and was ready to learn from those opportunity to foster love and community people comfort with your skill, craft, or who had more experience, technical skills, through the common necessity of food. abilities, you have an obligation to do and expertise. After all, I wasn’t getting When I think of bread, I think of people so. At the time, the grocery store shelves any younger, and I knew that now was sitting around a table, talking, enjoying were becoming emptier each day. I knew the time to pursue what many would the company of others, and most that the families who relied on those consider crazy. I chose to attend the importantly, breaking bread. boxes of food would need assistance International Culinary Institute of Myrtle What does sharing bread mean to you - more than ever, given the shutdown of our Beach in due to the small what motivated you to take on this task public schools and the number of people class sizes, intimate setting, and excellent and continue for months? out of work. When I considered the facility. I had very little experience with I saw a community hurting, and I knew I number of that a loaf of bread can bread when I entered culinary school, had the resources to fill a small need for provide, my heart ached for tiny bellies but as soon as I got a taste of it, I fell in the people who have supported me and that might go hungry without loaves love with the art, science, and passion my dreams for so long. In Rockingham of bread in their boxes. Helping people involved in bringing a loaf of bread into County, North Carolina, we experienced has always been at the forefront of my existence. Beyond the fact that it is the some extreme shortages during the agenda, and the thought of others being most relaxing hobby I have taken up, it is beginning months of the 2020 Covid-19 hungry at my expense was unacceptable. also one that allows creativity to run free pandemic. From toilet paper to bread, I learned at a young age that our lives are in terms of flavors and presentation. It is locals needed the necessities and the measured by our generosity and kindness an easy art to get lost in. towards others, and this was a prime What is your career plan and opportunity to put that notion what are your steps to get there? 2020 SOUTHEAST HERO into practice. Right now, I know that I want to What did you learn? continue learning and honing my ABIGAIL CARTER Throughout what has been an craft. For my short term goal, I would extremely trying time in our community, love to travel and work for a wide range I have learned that sometimes life hits of specialized bakeries to achieve a well- hard and it’s completely out of our rounded resume and experience base. I control. But we are in control of how we would like to take the skills and techniques manage what we have been given. At learned in those settings and focus them the time of the pandemic, so many in on bread baking. Looking at my long term our small community had no income, career, I hope to be an educator and have children at home, and limited resources. the same lasting impact on the future of When those circumstances surround the the industry that my chef instructors have people you love, it becomes everyone’s had on me during culinary school. responsibility to help neighbors in need. What baking bread means to you: Seeing the unfolding of this pandemic Baking bread means taking my passion, and its economic impact on the people knowledge, and a few ingredients and in our small town has made me realize turning them into something someone that no act of kindness is too small. You can use to feed their families. It is pretty never know how much of a difference humbling when you think about how you’re making by going the extra mile and much a small loaf of bread can mean lending a helping hand. ✹

{ 42 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA INDUSTRY NEWS

Contributed by ITALIAN BREAD ABIGAIL CARTER

This Italian bread is versatile and easily fit the need of all of those who could not find bread during the pandemic. It has a dense crumb, a crisp crust and a savory bread flavor. It is good for , sandwiches, and making .

ITALIAN BREAD Total dough weight 1.400 kg TOTAL FORMULA Ingredients % Kilograms AP unbleached flour* 100.00 0.828 Water† 65.00 0.538 Salt 2.50 0.021 Instant yeast 1.67 0.014 Totals 169.17 1.400

*11.7%–12.7% protein †70°F–72°F

PROCESS – Italian Bread Final Dough Mix Type of mixer Home stand mixer 3rd speed 0:07 Dough temperature 76°F

Ferment Length of time 1:00–3:00 Shape Divide 700 g Preshape Round

Bench rest Time 0:05–0:10 Shape Shape Rectangle, then log Proofing device Greased loaf pan

Proof Time 0:30–0:45 Bake Oven type Home oven Time/temperature 0:25–0:30 at 350°F

Loaves of bread that are ready to be taken to the food distribution.

A freshly baked loaf of Italian Bread, cooling before being packaged.

Abigail is shaping her bread into a load and preparing to place it into the pan. PHOTOS: KAREN CARTER PHOTOS:

BREAD LINES – WINTER 2020 { 43 } SEASONAL BAKING STO LLEN

hat’s old is new; what’s new is old. In another installment Kristen demoed her preference of a smaller, 300 g loaf that is Wof the Try This At Home Series, baking buddies Mitch perfect for gift-giving or enjoying alone. Mitch used several Stamm (Guild Director) and Kristen Lopez (Executive Bread types of flours, some requiring 20–40 grams more of egg yolk Chef at Facebook) met virtually to demo different versions of or milk, obscene amounts of butter, and a cornucopia of fruit. Stollen, the traditional Christmas holiday bread of . Especially fun, he took time to demo his technique for making Kristen made hers with freshly milled Yecora Rojo from Barton candied orange at home. Both Kristen and Mitch filled Springs Mill, rum-soaked dried fruits their loaves with a log of marzipan and entombed them with and candied orange peel conveniently powdered sugar. It was a festive afternoon, connecting East and found at any local Trader Joe’s store. West Coast instructors with many members in between. ✹

A traditional German Christmas bread Contributed by embellished with spices and fruits with just MITCH STAMM enough dough to hold the fruit together. This STOLLEN bread freezes well and has amazing shelf life. Total dough weight 2.572 kg All purpose flour 39.96% TOTAL FORMULA SPONGE FRUIT SOAKER FINAL DOUGH Ingredients % Kilograms % Kilograms % Kilograms % Kilograms All purpose flour 100.00 0.713 100.00 0.285 100.00 0.428 Milk 31.56 0.225 79.00 0.225 Egg 16.83 0.120 28.04 0.120 Salt 1.96 0.014 3.27 0.014 Osmotolerant instant yeast2.55 0.018 0.07 0.002 4.21 0.018 Dark rum* 72.11 0.514 100.00 0.514 Dried fruit† 72.11 0.514 100.00 0.514 Unsalted butter 28.06 0.200 46.73 0.200 Sugar 14.03 0.100 23.36 0.100 Whole almonds, toasted14.03 0.100 23.36 0.100 Orange zest‡ 2.95 0.021 4.91 0.021 Vanilla 2.53 0.018 4.21 0.018 Lemon zest** 1.77 0.013 2.94 0.013 Cinnamon 0.40 0.003 0.67 0.003 Fruit soaker 240.19 1.028 Sponge 119.16 0.510 Totals 360.89 2.572 179.07 0.510 200.00 1.028 601.04 2.572 Candied lemon and orange zest†† As needed Marzipan log As needed Powdered sugar‡‡ As needed

*Can substitute simple syrup or a 50/50 mixture of rum and simple syrup †Assorted ‡2 oranges **2 lemons ††Optional — see process notes ‡‡Can substitute for granulated sugar or spiced sugar

{ 44 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA SEASONAL BAKING PHOTOS: MITCH STAMM MITCH PHOTOS:

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Plasticized butter with cinnamon and zest. The shaping process. Shaped Stollen prior to baking. Using a folding technique to incorporate the fruit. Fruit being incorporated into the dough.

MARZIPAN FILLING PROCESS – Stollen strands separated. Reserve in an airtight Preferment Sponge Total weight 0.218 kg container. A desiccant is helpful. Mix Type of mixer Hand TOTAL FORMULA MIX Length of time Until incorporated Ingredients % Kilograms : Prior to mixing plasticize the butter and Dough temperature 70°F Almond paste 100.00 0.200 place the lemon zest, orange zest and Ferment Time/temperature 12:00–15:00 at 75°F Egg white 8.00 0.016 cinnamon on the plasticized butter. Press Lemon zest* 0.78 0.002 lightly to adhere. Final Dough Totals 108.78 0.218 Once on 2nd speed, as the dough Mix Type of mixer Planetary w/ dough hook : Comments See process *Quarter notes of a lemon, adjust to taste begins to develop, add the plasticized butter in increments. After half the Dough temperature 80°F–82°F FRUIT SOAKER Add Sponge, egg, vanilla, butter has been incorporated, begin : Cover fruit in dark rum or a 50/50 flour, salt, yeast, and adding the remaining sugar, alternating mixture of dark rum and simple syrup half the sugar with the remaining butter. Mix to full and let sit in refrigerator in a closed 1st speed 0:04–0:05 development. container preferably for a week. 2nd speed Add butter and remaining Take out of refrigerator a day before using. FINISHING sugar, see : process notes Drain well, reserve syrup for future bakes. Once baked immerse loaf in melted Add Soaked fruit : and candied : butter or brush generously with melted lemon and CANDIEDorange LEMON zestAND ORANGE ZEST st butter and store overnight in covered 1 speed Until well distributed Remove the peel from 1 lemon and 1 : container. orange. Remove the pith from the peel. Ferment Time/temperature 1:30 at 68°F-72°F : The next day immerse the loaf in melted Julienne the peel. Place the julienned Fold 0:45 butter or brush generously with melted zest in a small pot. Cover with cold water butter. Finish by rolling in sugar: either Shape Divide 500 g and heat. When the water boils, remove Tight ball granulated, spiced granulated, or Preshape the pot from the heat and drain the Rest 0:15–0:20 powdered sugar. water. Shape As demonstrated — : Return the zest to the small pot and MARZIPAN LOG youtu.be/5cGiINnafGs repeat with fresh cold water. Drain and : Start at least one day before baking the Proof Proofing device Sheet pan repeat one more time. Drain again. bread. Mix all ingredients together with Time/temperature 1:30–2:00 at 78°F–82°F : Return the zest to the small pot. paddle until smooth. Cover with simple syrup and boil 2–3 Form into 50 g logs, 5"–6" long using Bake Bake 0:30–0:40 at 325°F : Finishing See process notes minutes. Drain and toss the julienned powdered sugar for shaping. Wrap in zest in granulated sugar to keep the plastic. Store in refrigerator up to 10 days.

BREAD LINES – WINTER 2020 { 45 } SEASONAL BAKING

STOLLEN

This is the follow up whole grain version of Mitch Stamm’s Stollen. Every year I compare my version to his and improve on it a little bit as I learn more about his process as well as scaling mine for mass production. This is a perfect option for those interested in using whole grains or milling at home.

STOLLEN

Total dough weight 2.771 kg Whole wheat flour 39.80 TOTAL FORMULA SPONGE FRUIT SOAKER FINAL DOUGH Ingredients % Kilograms % Kilograms % Kilograms % Kilograms Whole wheat flour 100.00 0.611 100.00 0.243 100.00 0.368 Milk 31.44 0.192 79.00 0.192 Egg 14.39 0.088 23.91 0.088 Salt 1.98 0.012 3.29 0.012 Osmotolerant instant yeast1.30 0.008 1.00 0.002 1.49 0.006 Dark rum 120.39 0.736 100.00 0.736 Dried fruit 120.39 0.736 100.00 0.736 Butter, softened 30.10 0.184 50.00 0.184 Sugar 13.90 0.085 23.10 0.085 Slivered almonds, toasted11.45 0.070 19.02 0.070 Orange zest* 3.44 0.021 5.71 0.021 Vanilla 2.40 0.015 3.99 0.015 Lemon zest† 2.06 0.013 3.42 0.013 Fruit soaker 400.00 1.472 Sponge 119.02 0.438 Totals 453.26 2.771 180.00 0.438 200.00 1.472 752.96 2.771 Almond filling As needed Sugar As needed Powdered sugar As needed

*2 oranges †2 lemons

FRUIT SOAKER MIX FINISHING : Cover fruit in dark rum and let sit : Add butter slowly on 2nd speed until : Once fully baked, dip in clarified in refrigerator in a closed container fully developed. butter immediately, and place in preferably for a week. : Once fully developed add the ingredients sealed container for 24 hours at : Take out of refrigerator a day before on 1st speed until well distributed. room temperature. using. : Dip in clarified butter again and : Drain and pat dry with paper towel just generously coat with powdered sugar, before using. wrap in plastic and rest for another 24 hours.

{ 46 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA SEASONAL BAKING PHOTOS: KRISTEN LOPEZ KRISTEN PHOTOS:

Johnson & Wales students learning Stollen from Mitch Stamm. Dried fruits soaking. Divided Stollen dough ready for shaping.

PROCESS – Stollen Preferment Sponge Mix Type of mixer Hand Length of time Until incorporated

Ferment Time/temperature 10:00 at 72°F

Final Dough Mix Type of mixer Planetary Hold back Butter, lemon zest, soaked fruit and slivered almonds 1st speed Until cohesive 2nd speed See process notes Add Butter 1st speed See process notes Add Lemon zest, soaked fruit and slivered almonds

Ferment Time/temperature 1:30 at 72°F Fold 0:45

Shape Divide 500 g ALMOND FILLING Preshape Round ALMOND FILLING Mix all ingredients together with paddle Rest 0:15 : Total weight 0.120 kg until smooth. Makeup As demonstrated TOTAL FORMULA : Form into 30 g logs and wrap in plastic. Proof & Bake Final proof time 3:00–4:00 at 72°F Ingredients % Kilograms Store in refrigerator for up to 10 days. Bake 0:33 at 340°F Almond paste 100.00 0.111 Steam Light Egg white 7.70 0.009 Lemon zest* 0.80 0.001 Makeup Finishing See process notes Totals 108.50 0.120 *From 1/4 lemon

BREAD LINES – WINTER 2020 { 47 } TECHNICAL ARTICLE

BROTFORMEN OF MARIA BIRNBAUM-KAISER COURTESY PHOTOS: By JAMES MACGUIRE Guild Member, Baking Instructor and Food Writer — Montréal, QC

ome of us have wood-burning especially things that are dying out such use. Rattan had come into vogue during ovens, but the rest of us use as ceramic Kougelhopf molds and black the Victorian age and the distinctive spiral Smodern ovens, and often so cutting wood handled Nogent style spatulas with pattern that was devised — Art Deco in a edge that you have to be something of a a brass ring between the handle and the way — appears whimsical, but it was the genius to program the steam injection and blade, and I regret having missed bowl simplest way to get the job done. Circa other options that are supposed to make scrapers made of real horn for which the 1925, Ernst began trying to deal with it fool proof. I would still prefer to push a French named them cornes. Couche seem brokers further up the chain of the rattan’s button for a second or two, and still have dowdy, but there is simple beauty in their origin. According to Maria Birnbaum- fond memories of the first real bread oven function and if well-treated, they never Kaiser, the current fifth generation owner, I saw in use. It was a Spanish Llopis with a seem to wear out. since they had been the inventors, other rotating floor and an spout, into which we since adopted classic shapes and styles, Herbert Birnbaum in Thüngen-Würtzburg, poured a glass of water to create steam. also began with them. Germany is the inventor of Brotformen Looking around the rest of the bake shops baskets as we know them today and is Rattan (Calamus Rotang L) requires jungle is like stepping way back into the past. the major producer. When they opened in conditions so it is grown in Indonesia, Viet- Couches (proofing linens), planchettes 1847 under Herrmann Birnbaum (Herbert nam, and parts of Africa. There are many (transfer boards), and peels remain in use. comes into the picture much later) the varieties, not all of which are appropriate. So do lames even if its on the sly because baskets were straw (wicker refers to the Birnbaum’s source is the jungle regions of they’ve been fixed with razor blades, a weaving, not the materiel), and later straw the Indonesian islands. It’s grown in the 1960s innovation. There is nothing luddite with a wooden bottom. It was Herrman’s jungle where growth is slow, giving it a about this because nothing has come nephew and successor Ernst Birnbaum dense and highly stable cell structure. It is along that can replace them and do a who, circa 1908, had a “Eureka!” moment: then harvested by hand. All of this comes better job. It is a pleasure to maintain switching from straw to much more robust at a relatively high cost. No chemicals are these traditions that are part of our trade. rattan and constructing in such a way as used in processing, and the color is natural Some pieces of equipment are beautiful, to make them more durable and easier to rather than dyed or bleached.

Family and workers, 1910. Maria Birnbaum-Kaiser and Ralf Kaiser, current

PHOTO: H BIRNBAUM ARCHIVES H BIRNBAUM PHOTO: fifth-generation owners.

{ 48 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA TECHNICAL ARTICLE

Plastic Brotformen Brotformen with dough Baked bread that was proofed in Brotformen

Two to five meter (yards) lengths of The directions for care and maintenance Understandably this is so other-worldly peeled rattan of different diameters are of the Brotformen reflect Germany’s strict to Maria Birnbaum-Kaiser that though she soaked in cold water for a number of hours hygiene standards and reputation for should be alarmed at the situation, she’s until extremely pliable. Construction is making things that last. After work, keep also somewhat amused, volunteering performed by hand with each individual the baskets spread out and wait until that these manufacturers must have no layer — mostly round or oval loops — is completely dry or place in an oven for five idea how German breads are made, and held in place by long staples which ensure minutes at 160°C/320°F before stacking. perhaps have never even seen a loaf. But extremely high stability. This durability is Every three to four weeks, they should be this is probably also the case for most of such that there are many industrial bakery thoroughly brushed (the company sells their online buyers. users. Depending upon the shape, the electric brushes with rotating heads that It’s a clash between Old World and New ends are flush or the final end is held in capture the flour and dust) and placed in World values. As artisans, we learn to place by a nail. The nails and staples are all the oven at 120–140°C/250–285°F with appreciate the well-made tools of our but invisible, making their use completely plenty of steam for twenty minutes or trade made by fellow artisans. In Germany, safe. Items are classified by shape and washed in a dishwasher at 40°C/105°F. if you inherit a bakery, Brotformen are the amount of dough they’re designed to Once a year the inside surface should be a part of the inventory and part of the receive. Some unusual shapes are already coated with a special wax. legacy, only to slowly be replaced over a part of the regular product line, but This made me wonder if the very long periods, as needed. Industrials special sizes and shapes can be ordered. inexpensive Brotformen made in other wouldn’t touch them if it weren’t for their Another option is to replace the flat rattan countries would even survive the first reliable quality and durability. Unless you bottom with wood which can be engraved year’s maintenance. In general, the rattan take that long view, the costs appear with images, logos, etc. that then leave is grown in fields as a monoculture prohibitive. I will treasure the Brotformen imprints on the baked loaves. This harkens with plenty of fertilizer for fast growth. I have held onto for frequent home use back to the period of the early designs. This results in a coarse and thin-walled until it’s time to pass them on. ✹ For bakers who prefer them, or who are interior cell structure which seriously faced with overwhelming demands from compromises durability. They’re inspectors, Herbert Birnbaum also pro- strangely light and seem flimsy. duces plastic Brotformen. There are slats The nails used are short, limiting in the design which prevent sticking (other structural soundness and version I’ve encountered don’t and tend leading to the fear that they to stick to well hydrated rye doughs), but could break apart fairly easily. they’re robust and easy to maintain.

Various Brotformen Custom Brotformen Brotformen construction

BREAD LINES – WINTER 2020 { 49 } TECHNICAL ARTICLE Should I buy a pH meter?

By DEBRA WINK Guild Member, Serious Home Baker, and Writer — Colombia, MO

“Would it... directions. The tendency for the balance pinpoint when my levain is perfect to use?” to swing one way or the other depends on improve my sourdough?” how much of all three forms are present. make me a better baker?” When free H+ from any or all acid sources builds up, causing the pH to drop, it This is a question I get asked frequently

pushes the equilibrium left toward the MOODY EMILY PHOTO: these days as more people are geeking undissociated state. Both acids readily out in their quest to find the sourdough give up their H+ when the pH is high holy grail. (meaning that free H+ is low). But as But if you don’t understand what pH is acidity in the starter or dough increases, (and isn’t), it might just do the opposite. it pushes acetic back together much So before you shell out the bucks to sooner than lactic. Keep in mind that acid surrender your own judgment to a number molecules don’t register in the pH when on a meter, let’s talk about acidity in undissociated (complete) since only free sourdough and how pH works. H+ is measured.

As most sourdough bakers know, the Now let’s add in a buffer. Buffers tie up doughs have equal amounts of acid, the primary acids produced during sourdough hydrogen ions, pulling some of them out pH will be higher in the whole-grain. fermentation are lactic and acetic of the pH pool, but without neutralizing (although there are others produced in or reducing the acid by changing it into This brings me to the test that measures small amounts). What distinguishes these another compound. Acid is still there in total acidity in bread or dough — TTA. The compounds as acids is a loosely bound taste without exerting the same influence letters stand for Total Titratable Acidity, hydrogen atom that can separate, or in on pH. Buffering in bread dough comes and titration is a laboratory method chemistry-speak dissociate, from the from mineral-containing compounds used to measure acid concentration. It rest of the molecule when it’s dissolved naturally present in flour. Mineral content measures the total acid content in a in water. The hydrogen atom is free to is expressed as ash in flour-speak because defined amount of sample regardless detach from the molecule — but not the when flour is incinerated, everything burns of how much is initially dissociated or entire hydrogen atom. The electron, with off except the minerals. These are left undissociated. Concentration is how its negative charge, stays behind with behind as an ash residue, and the quantity our taste buds gauge acidity, in that the rest of the molecule, turning it into of ash remaining is used as an overall high concentrations are sour and low what is then called a lactate or acetate measure of a flour’s mineral content. concentrations are mild, with the whole anion. The hydrogen, with its positively Higher ash correlates to greater buffering range of tangy in between. So as tests go, charged proton, becomes a hydrogen capacity. The greater the buffering TTA is the one that measures the acid load ion, H+. This is the ‘H’ in pH. And pH is capacity, the more acid a flour can take and quantifies sourness. an (inverse) measure of free hydrogen on before the pH drops enough to slow While TTA and pH are both measures ions. More on that later. But for now, a the bacterial growth and metabolism of acidity, they’re not interchangeable simple representation of this process can that generate the acid. And the more because not all of the acid dissociates. be shown in a chemical equation where H acid that accumulates in the dough, the Some acid molecules will be dissociated represents hydrogen, and A is a generic more sour the bread. All else being equal, and some undissociated in an equilibrium stand-in for the rest of the molecule. sourdoughs made with higher-ash flours balance determined by the interplay tend to develop more sourness than those (undissociated) (dissociated) between the buffering capacity of the made from more refined flours. When flour and all acid parts present. Strong Detaching and reattaching go back and a white-flour dough and a whole-grain acids dissociate more easily and to a forth in an equilibrium balance, so the dough have the same pH, there is more greater degree than weak acids. And even arrow in this equation points in both acid in the whole-grain dough. Or looking though both lactic and acetic acid are at it from the other side, when both { 50 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA TECHNICAL ARTICLE considered weak acids, lactic dissociates to enzymes that are sensitive to it — the the pH will also end up about the same, 10x more readily than acetic, making effects of which you can sense by some time after time, when things are consis- lactic the stronger acid and acetic the combination of taste, touch, sight, and/or tent. But not all starter cultures will be one with much less of an impact on pH. In smell. However, within the normal ranges ripe at the same pH or be the same pH short, TTA measures acid quantity (acid of bread making, pH isn’t particularly when ripe. Each is as individual as its concentration) while pH measures acid important to yeast, which are bothered keeper’s objectives, conditions, flours, strength (H+ concentration). only by a buildup of undissociated acetic and maintenance practices. So pH is a lot acid. And it doesn’t predict flavor. like time, in that it also is a result of sour- To help bring this to life, I’m going to use dough management. If you let pH decide a swimming pool analogy. It’s not perfect, But there’s something else you need the endpoint, then ripeness (based on but you’ll get the point. So let’s say that to know about pH, aside from high leavening maturity and fitness) becomes each acid molecule is a parent and child is low and low is high in relation to the variable or chance result. A pH meter holding hands. This is how they arrive on H+ concentration. The pH scale is a is equivalent to the clock in that regard. the pool deck, where they let go, and the logarithmic one. What that means is that water-loving child (H+) goes into the pool. each pH unit represents a 10-fold (10x) So should you buy a pH meter? I get it; As more acids arrive, they do the same. difference in H+ concentration, i.e., 4 is laboratory instruments are very appealing. Keep in mind that pH is like a headcount 10x more than 5, and 3 is 10x more than And you might have reason to gather pH of H+ bobbing freely in the pool. More are 4, making 3 100x greater than 5 (or 1,000x readings if you’re conducting your own going in than coming out early on when greater than 6), and so on. But since weak scientific inquiry. But please know that there’s a lot of room to spread out. The acids like these favor the undissociated they aren’t very meaningful in bread pool has a filter (the buffer system) where state more as pH drops, there can be a without TTA values to go with them. The some H+ get drawn in and detained out lot more than a 10-fold increase in acid pH alone doesn’t tell you how much acid of sight and so do not get counted. Hey, I per unit change in pH (or even no change is present, or which acids they are, or in said it wasn’t perfect. Meanwhile, the deck in pH at all). In contrast, 10x more acid what balance. It just tells you the pH. So continues receiving new arrivals. is something you can easily taste. To a couple of questions for you to ponder complicate matters further, pH is affected as a baker: Is pH what you want to know? The filter pulls out enough H+ that the by temperature and ionic strength (i.e., And, how would having that number help count in the pool increases only slowly salt concentration). In essence, pH is an you make better bread? Then the practical at first. That is, until it reaches its limit amorphous, dimensionless quantity. consideration: Is it worth the care and and can’t hold any more. Then H+ starts calibration required for accurate readings? increasing faster in the pool too. As the In my classes, I teach that time isn’t one Because a pH meter isn’t quite as simple pool fills up, H+ is more inclined to get out of the tools of sourdough management and straightforward to use as a factory- of the water and go back to the side of a because it’s not something we can control calibrated thermometer. parent. But being all the same, hydrogen directly. It’s what happens in time that ions are interchangeable and don’t need matters. And it takes as long as it takes to to return to the parent they came with. mature to the degree we want, which is In bread baking, there is no Acetic parents are much more clingy, and why we’re taught to go by the dough and so they tend to coax H+ out of the water not by the clock in determining ripeness substitute for the wisdom when the pool isn’t that crowded. Lactic and making judgment calls. The clock and intuition that come with parents, on the other hand, are more can help us gauge how things are going; resistant until the pool gets 10x more to speed things up or slow them down practice and experience. full. All the while, new acids keep coming, to fit the time we want, we can use one although fewer and fewer let go of their or more of the tools that are within our H+ as things get more and more crowded. control (flour, temperature, hydration, In bread baking, there is no substitute This can go on until the pool eventually inoculation, degree of maturity, etc.). But for the wisdom and intuition that come reaches a limit that is no longer tolerable. fermentation time is a result of using the with practice and experience. Baking by tools, meaning that we only influence it numbers instead of by using the signs The takeaway point of this nightmarish indirectly by managing the things that we your levain and dough are giving you image is that pH only sees what’s free in can control. would be forfeiting an opportunity to the pool, not what’s trapped in the filter grow in sensory experience. And it could or how big the filter is, or anything on the That said, when you manage your sour- actually make you less self-confident deck holding hands or otherwise. It can’t dough in a consistent manner, it settles and self-reliant as a baker. Is that what tell you how much acetic or lactic acid into its own equilibrium. The organisms artisanship stands for? I’ll leave you to is present or where the yeast are in their tend to reach about the same count in answer that for yourself, but armed with population growth cycle. So it’s a tunnel- about the same amount of time and in taste, touch, sight, smell (and perhaps a view that doesn’t let you see very much of about the same ratio to each other when good thermometer), I believe you already the big picture. Having said that, pH is not feeding follows the same rate and fre- possess all the information-gathering unimportant. It matters to bacteria and quency, using the same flour and hydra- equipment you need. ✹ tion at the same temperature. Likewise, BREAD LINES – WINTER 2020 { 51 } TECHNICAL ARTICLE BUTTER SCIENCE PRIMER FOR LAMINATORS

OVERVIEW

Introduction

During the Covid-19 shelter-in-place I gave myself the project 2 Keep the butter at a steady temperature because each of researching how the microscopic properties of butter affect temperature swing melts and recrystallizes some of the its performance in lamination. In particular, I wondered whether milkfat, worsening its macro structure. there is anything the artisan baker can do to make inexpensive 3 Use the beurrage soon after plasticizing it and forming it butter perform better. into a sheet. If the sheet is chilled after plasticizing and I tracked down leads, which led to scientific papers and butter forming, minimize the time (not overnight) because even experts across the United States, and in Canada and France. after the butter reaches the target low temperature (and appears to be solid and unchanging) the macro crystal This is my summary of what they told me. However, I structures continue to bond, making the butter harder and acknowledge that I am not a food scientist and so I might have more brittle, thus nullifying the plasticization. misinterpreted or misunderstood their expertise. Any errors are mine alone. And with all scientific endeavors, today’s best 4 Although butter manufactured with poor macro milkfat understanding will be improved upon over time. crystal structure will never perform as well as butter with good structure, its behavior can be improved by applying Summary thorough sheer forces, such as in a stand mixer, The primary behaviors a laminator wants from roll-in butter followed by rapid shaping, cooling, and use. (beurrage) are cohesion so that the butter does not get absorbed into the dough (détrempe), and ductility so that the beurrage deforms smoothly as the combined dough (paton) is MICROSCOPIC STRUCTURE OF BUTTER compressed and stretched during rolling.

Cohesion improves/increases as the fraction of milkfat that Components Of Unsalted Butter is in solid (crystalline) form increases. This fraction increases Unsalted butter consists of a complex, hierarchical structure dramatically as the butter’s temperature is lowered towards the of milkfat crystals. Embedded within the crystal structure is freezing point of water. liquid milkfat, somewhat like water embedded in a sponge. Also embedded are water, fat globules (very few within butter Ductility improves the more ordered macro structure of the manufactured via a modern continuous process), and trace milkfat crystals. components such as milk proteins and . The four things that a laminator can do to improve the Impact Of Moisture Content performance of off-the-shelf butter are: Many laminators think that the key determinant of a butter’s 1 Keep the butter at low temperature because cold butter has suitability for lamination is high milkfat content, such as 82% less fluid fat. This reduces absorption of the butter into the and above. détrempe, which keeps the layers separated. The butter specialist experts with whom I conferred were unanimous that this is not correct.

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At 4°C (39°F) about 45% of the fat is liquid. But at 15°C (59°F) about 70% of the fat is liquid, making the beurrage much more prone to be absorbed into the détrempe, which makes layer definition and separation worse.

Clearly it is beneficial to keep the beurrage cold during lamination…but only if it can be sufficiently ductile at that temperature.

By Ductile Vs. Brittle Behavior Under Strain4 PHOTO: COURTESY OF ALLEN COHN COURTESY PHOTO: ALLEN COHN All butter behaves differently under light strain than heavy Guild Member and strain. Under light strain the fat behaves elastically, i.e., after the strain it returns to its previous shape. Serious Home Baker San Francisco, CA But during lamination, butter is subjected to heavy strain. Above a strain threshold, ductile deform permanently and smoothly like modeling clay. While some high-milkfat may perform better, it’s not Brittle fats remain elastic to higher strain thresholds. But above the minor difference in milkfat content that is the cause. It’s that they shatter permanently. that they also have more suitable macro crystal structures. Hierarchy Of Crystalline Structures Franck Sobolewski, a Charentes-based expert on butter texture, says, “Increasing the percentage of fat in the butter The difference in behavior under high strain is due to for (above the usual 82 percent1) has no technical differences in milkfat macro crystal structure. justification, because one cannot say that the lamination will be During the last century it was discovered that milkfat crystalliz- improved. It’s crystallization that is key to the process. Without es into three microstructures: α, β', and β. But it has since been careful crystallization, there can be no guarantee of success.”2 discovered that it is the structures and interactions of groups of Heat Response these crystals that determine the ductility of a butter.

Milkfat in butter is actually many different types of fat, and they Ductile butter has three hierarchical levels of structure. Brittle crystallize in several different forms. Therefore, butter does butter has only two. not have a single melting point, but rather becomes increasing LEVEL 1 liquid as temperature increases over a wide range. Individual α, β', and β milkfat crystals are stacked into lamellae (sheets or plates). These are in turn stacked to form nanoplatelets, which are the fundamental crystal units within butter.

They range in size and shape, but are around a few hundred nanometers. Nanoplatelets within brittle butters tend to be larger, longer, and more jagged. Nanoplatelets within ductile butters tend to be smaller and smoother.

LEVEL 2 In ductile butters the nanoplatelets aggregate to form short cylinders.

LEVEL 3 The cylinders (ductile butter) or nanoplatelets (brittle butter) cluster together. The clusters are about five times bigger than Figure 1 — Solid Fat % vs. Temperature3 nanoplatelets.

1 82% is the legal minimum in France. So it is likely that this 3 A.J. Wright, M.G. Scanlon, R.W. Hartel, And A.G. Marangoni, conclusion is just as applicable to butter with 80% milkfat, which “Rheological Properties of Milkfat and Butter,” Journal Of Food is the legal minimum in the USA. Science — Vol. 66, No. 8, 2001, p. 1060.

2 James MacGuire, “Crisp, Tender, Old-Fashioned Croissants,” 4 1. “The Fat In A Perfect Croissant,” Physics Today, January, Art Of Eating, Number 93, pp. 15–16. 2018, p. 71. https://doi.org/10.1063/PT.3.3828.

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The clusters form a network. The network of a ductile butter is 5 Churning — Up to this point the cream is an emulsion of fat much more ordered and layered than that of a brittle butter. (It within water, and the fat is contained within membrane-clad is hypothesized…but not proven…that this layering of clusters globules. Churning subjects the cream to violent agitation, increases ductility by making it easier for the structures to slide which causes some or all of the membranes to rupture and across each other.) release their milkfat. The agitation also causes the milkfat to BOND STRENGTHS drop out of emulsion and coalesce into grains. These days Crystals within the first level are held together by chemical almost all churning is performed in a continuous process, electric bonds. Crystal groupings (levels 2 and 3) are held not batches, by devices nicknamed “butter cannons” together by van der Waals forces, which are much weaker. (see Figure 2).

Thus, when butter is subjected to strain, these weaker forces between groups of crystals disrupt first. These cluster disruptions account for most of the ductile/brittle behavior.

IMPACT OF MANUFACTURING PROCESS ON CRYSTAL STRUCTURE

Unfortunately, the sizes and structures of milk-fat crystal are determined long before the end user takes possession of the butter, i.e., by the processes selected by the manufacturer. Still, an overview of the manufacturing process might be of interest. Figure 2 — Continuous Butter Churning Machine Today’s Most Common Process aka “Butter Cannon” Cream Separation — Cream is separated out of the whole 1 6 Washing//Working — The grains of butter are milk. mechanically agitated in a process somewhat similar 2 — Cream is heat treated to kill pathogens and to kneading bread dough. In the process buttermilk is deactivate undesirable enzymes. separated and drained out (the amount precisely controlled to achieve the desired final water content). The remaining 3 Ripening — Optionally, cream may be inoculated at this water is evenly distributed, thus creating a water-in-oil point and fermented if the butter is to be “cultured.” This emulsion. Optionally salt is added. Also, culture flavoring is step is skipped to make “sweet cream” butter (which is optionally added.6 much more common in the USA). (And note that many butters marketed as cultured also skip this step, but rather 7 Packaging — The butter is formed into units and packaged. have culture flavor mixed in after churning. This is not I believe the most common sizes are 1/4 sticks for necessarily a bad thing since many people cannot taste the retail, 1 pound “bricks,” and 25 kg blocks. difference.5) 8 Cooling/Storage/Hardening — The packaged units are 4 Aging And Crystallizing — The cream is subjected to a moved to cold storage. It can take a short…or very long time sequence of precise temperature changes to cause the for the butter’s temperature to drop to its target, depending milkfat to crystallize in the desired sizes and structures, on the refrigeration device and how the units are stacked. similar in concept to how chocolate is tempered. Most Although the butter appears solid and unchanging, over commonly this is done to adjust for variations in the input the next several days to weeks the crystal macro structure cream so that a consistent product is output. For example, continues to change and strengthen, making the butter during winter cows are fed more grain and less grass, which significantly harder. changes the ratios of types of fats, leading to undesirably 9 Delivery — The butter is delivered from the manufacturer hard butter. to the distribution center or retail store. The butter’s (I have inferred…but am not positive…that winter milkfat has temperature may undergo many changes during this step more stearic fatty acid which is saturated, and less oleic depending on how careful the delivery process is. Each fatty acid, which is monounsaturated.) temperature swing makes the butter’s internal structure worse than it was when it left the factory, much like poorly handled .

5 Elaine Khosrova, Butter: A Rich History, Algonquin Books, 6 www.nizo.com/butter-process/ 2017, pp. 98–99

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Store Placement — The butter is stored at the distribution to separate out the most appropriate parts of the milkfat center or retail outlet until purchase. Again, the facility may (somewhat similar to how an oil refinery uses heat to separate put more or less care into steadily maintaining the butter’s different fractions of crude oil via distillation), such as those proper temperature, thus creating another opportunity for with higher or lower saturation. However, I don’t know which the structure to get worse. parts are most appropriate for lamination butter, and I doubt this would be economically viable for the manufacturers. Process For Textured Butter : Texturizing The Butter After Churning — Solid, yet brittle Some manufacturers make butter whose attributes are better butter can be run through a “microfix” machine, which for lamination. This butter is of-ten called “textured” butter in appears to subject the butter to very thorough shear forces Europe. (.com/watch?v=ETN oYmJsNzA). This breaks some of Sometimes it is called “dry” butter…although, as mentioned the forces between the crystal networks, making it less brittle. above…lower water content is not what makes butter better for But it doesn’t fundamentally change the butter crystals into lamination. It is possible that “dry” is a reference to the amount the optimal three-tier hierarchal structure. And if the butter of saturated fats. Although it’s unclear to me what the link is not stored properly afterwards, the network can become between saturated fat content and suitability for lamination is. brittle again.

Unfortunately, I don’t know what manufacturers do to make a butter better for lamination. They closely guard these trade IMPLICATIONS FOR LAMINATION secrets. Unfortunately for the artisan baker, the most important aspects However, based on a few hints I received and my own of crystal structure are fixed before it gets to the bakery or inferences here are what I think they might be doing, listed kitchen, and there are no practical ways to fundamentally reset from which I think are most likely to least likely: them outside of a dairy. (This is unlike chocolate which can be tempered using equipment in a home kitchen or small bakery Even though a lot of the : Special Cooling (Step 6) — to achieve the desired crystal structure.) The baker can only crystallization occurs during step 4, some of those crystals buy butters manufactured with better crystal structures…and are melted by the friction of churning. Thus, crystallization then hope that the structure was not damaged during shipment happens again as the cooling plates of the butter cannon or storage. lower the butter’s temperature after churning. I suspect that if the butter is cooled quickly and with a lot of agitation then But whatever condition the butter arrives into the kitchen, the the crystals are encouraged to be small…much like how water baker can improve it for lamination. crystals in ice cream are kept small by agitation and rapid Buy For Ductility, Not Milkfat Content cooling or how sugar crystals in fudge are kept small. Pretty much the only information about a butter given to : Special Kneading (Step 6) — As is well known, kneading bread artisan bakers is its milkfat content. So it is understandably dough doesn’t create gluten…it organizes it into a regular tempting to use this number to predict whether a butter will structure. I suspect that kneading of butter after churning perform well in lamination. can organize its milkfat crystals into desirable regular macro structures. But, as explained above, it is the macro crystalline structure of a butter that determines its performance during lamination, not : Rapid Cooling After Packaging (Step 8) — Prof. Bob Bradley, the fat percentage. Some high-fat butters will work well, some perhaps the USA’s greatest expert on butter, shared with not so well. Some “standard” 80%-fat butters will work well, me that a lot of manufacturers store their butter after some not. manufacturing in huge stacks…which means that the butter packages on the interior of the stacks take forever to cool, The only solution is for the baker to try samples of the butters thus allowing for undesirably large and jagged crystals and available to them. And it might be useful to try a few samples networks of crystals to form. Perhaps manufacturers of of each, in case the first sample was just stored improperly. textured butter simply do a better job of cooling. Yes, this is more work. But the good news is that perhaps a : Better Control Of Supply Chain (Steps 9 and 10) — Similarly, less-expensive butter will perform adequately, thus saving the perhaps manufacturers of textured butter better enforce artisan money on one of the most expensive ingredients! temperature control on their delivery services and distribution Plasticize Shortly Before Use centers, thus minimizing the damage to the butter’s crystal Laminators usually “plasticize” the beurrage before use by network after leaving the factory. whacking it with a rolling pin, or some similar method. This : Fractioning The Input Milk (Step 1) — Cow’s milk is incredibly overcomes some of the van der Waals forces holding together complicated with a bewildering variety of milkfat molecules. the crystal clusters, essentially straining the butter out of its It is technically possible to use a process called fractionation elastic range into its plastic range.

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But after plasticization…even though the butter appears solid…it is changing inside: the forces start to re-form, and any crystals REFERENCES melted by the friction of plasticization start to recrystallize Books and Articles (likely into larger and more jagged forms). Braulio Macias Rodriguez and Alejandro Marangoni “The Fat In So, it is best to use the beurrage as soon after plasticization A Perfect Croissant,” Physics Today, January, 2018, as possible. If it must be cooled after plasticization, do it as doi.org/10.1063/PT.3.3828 quickly and briefly as possible. For example, the beurrage’s texture will not be as good if it is instead plasticized the night Braulio A. Macias-Rodriguez & Randy H. Ewoldt & Alejandro G. before and stored in the refrigerator until the next day. Marangoni, “Nonlinear viscoelasticity of fat crystal networks,” Rheologica Acta, Volume 53, Number 3 Keep Beurrage Very Cold During Lamination A.J. Wright, M.G. Scanlon, R.W. Hartel, And A.G. Marangoni, The warmer the beurrage is, the more of its fat is liquid. This “Rheological Properties of Milkfat and Butter,” Journal Of Food increases the amount that is absorbed into the détrempe, Science — Vol. 66, No. 8, 2001 which harms the layer separation and definition. The Dairy Education eBook, www.uoguelph.ca/foodscience/ Cream Brittle Butter book-page/dairy-science-and-technology-ebook A store brand butter can cost one third as much as an artisan brand, such as Plugra. Very tempting. But it might be brittle. Butter Through The Ages, www.webexhibits.org/butter/index. Can that be overcome? htm l

While an artisan baker cannot repair the fundamental macro A. C. Juriaanse and I. Heertje, (1988) “Microstructure of crystal structure of a brittle butter…and does not even have Shortenings, and Butter — A Review,” Food a microfix machine…the baker might be able to increase the Structure, Vol. 7, No. 2, Article 8. digitalcommons.usu.edu/ butter’s ductility enough to be acceptable. foodmicrostructure/vol7/iss2/8

Shear strain is the most effective at breaking the bonds Stine Rønholt, Kell Mortensen, and Jes C. Knudsen, “The between crystal clusters. The most common plasticization Effective Factors on the Structure of Butter and Other Milk Fat- technique — whacking with a rolling pin — produces more Based Products,” Comprehensive Reviews in Food Science and compression than shear strain. And it’s not very thorough. Food Safety, Vol. 12, 2013

A stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment produces a lot Elaine Khosrova, Butter: A Rich History, Algonquin Books, 2017 more shearing and is more thorough. Robert Bradley, Better Butter II Here is a process I have tested with Trader Joe’s store brand Sample Manufacturers Of Textured Butter butter ($2.99/pound) that produced acceptable results: www.anchorfoodprofessionals.com/glo bal/en/products/ : Place a sheet pan in the refrigerator to chill. butter/butter-sheets.html

: Thirty minutes before lamination remove butter from www.isigny-ste-mere.com/en/our-butters/our-buttermaking- refrigerator. Core temperature should be around 40°F. know-how/

: Cut into cubes. www.fitsa-group.com/en/produit/tourage-butter/

: Thoroughly cream in planetary stand mixer fitted with the www.fitsa-group.com/en/produit/textured-butter/ paddle attachment. Temperature should now be around 55°F. www.parisgourmet.com/sheetbutterfor chefs-0 : Form into a thin sheet of the desired dimensions, such as www.parmalatprofessional.com.au/pro duct/president-82-fat- by folding a wrapper of those dimensions out of parchment tourage-butter-sheets-5x2kg/ paper or plastic, placing the butter inside the wrapper, and then rolling the package flat and even with a rolling pin. www.elle-et-vire.com/pro/en/products/butters/pastry-bakery/ extra-dry-butter-84-fat/ : Place the wrapped butter in the refrigerator on the chilled sheet pan. : Just before lamination remove from refrigerator. Temperature should be around 40°F again. Unwrap and lock-in within the détrempe.

During my test I did not notice any shattering of the butter. ✹

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WHY CAN’T BAKERS SOURCE MORE DIVERSE FLOUR? By TOM DRISCOLL Agriculture Consultant TMD Farm and Food Strategies — Washington, DC

recent years, consumers soil fertility with less or no synthetic Despite the volatility in markets for the have demonstrated fertilizer, which save the farmer time and more dominant crops, the sheer scale a renewed interest in money. This also reduces the likelihood of demand is compelling. The number In diverse grains. Concern of fertilizer being carried away in the rain, of profitable uses for corn, soybeans, about gluten and which decreases its efficacy and impairs and (to a smaller extent) wheat makes carbohydrates in the American diet, as nearby bodies of water. More varied crop these crops comparatively easy to sell. well as growing gourmet interest in more rotations reduce pressure from weeds Whether the crop is ultimately bound varied or robust flavors and enthusiasm and pathogens by preventing weeds for , livestock feed, industrial for local food, contribute to this exciting or harmful microbes that thrive on a components, or ingredients for human phenomenon. Yet while the explosive common crop from thriving and growing consumption, it takes a lot of these crops popularity of quinoa caused swift and through consecutive crop cycles. Growing to fuel the global economy. The ability to enormous changes in South American different crops gives farmers options to divert these crops to different buyers and agricultural production, bakers and manage their workload because different processes as needed requires uniformity consumers may be left wondering why crops have different planting and harvest that is not easily maintained through the flour made from ancient, heritage, or times. And many of these more varied biological processes farmers navigate other grains beyond wheat is not more crop rotations improve yields for farmers in raising crops. Significant investment affordable and readily available. when they do grow corn, soybeans, and in agricultural research and industrial wheat. This means a farmer who is skilled and marketing infrastructure from the Many farmers in the US would like to (and lucky) at navigating various grain public, private, and nonprofit sectors has grow more varied grain crops than they markets can ultimately improve long-term driven farmers to focus on more limited are today. Bakers with retail outlets will profitability even if a loss is suffered on rotations. In varying degrees of severity, understand the value of having more a less popular crop, as long as the crop agronomic research, farmer education, than one product to offer buyers; if the rotation causes the following corn, wheat, farm equipment, seed, fertilizer, pesticide, baguettes do not sell well or burn on a and soybean crops to improve without and herbicide development have focused given run, profits may be recovered by extra fertilizer and herbicides. on the three leading crops. Over time, the selling cookies or pastries. Implementing businesses that buy grain — including more diverse crop rotations can serve a Diverse crop rotations also enhance ethanol producers, grain millers, and similar purpose for farmers. If the corn the farmers’ sense of professional livestock feed producers — have followed harvest is disappointing, the soybeans will accomplishment and environmental that trend. They emphasize processing hopefully do better. stewardship. In fact, some of the interest equipment and fixtures that make in varied grains among savvy consumers But growing varied field crops from cycle productive use of the top three crops, and within the industry is driven by the to cycle and year to year on a given parcel limiting the options to market more environmental benefits that more varied of land — what farmers refer to as “crop diverse crops. There simply aren’t as many crop rotations can achieve. Given these rotations” — offers more benefits to places to sell buckwheat and rye or as compelling reasons to grow more diverse farmers than just insurance against the much quality seed available to grow those grains, why is flour made from grains like failure of any particular crop. A well- crops, whereas farmers can easily find barley, buckwheat, millet, oats, and rye managed crop rotation can enhance them for corn and soybeans. not more available and affordable?

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Before research, infrastructure, and benefits by understanding farmers’ be dedicated to a new crop on a trial other considerations drove farmers and planting decisions more thoroughly and basis, rather than dedicating a significant businesses utilizing grain to focus so by collaborating with farmers and other portion of the farm to a different grain. As intensely on corn, soybeans, and wheat, crop utilizers to ensure the availability the farmer gains experience and observes farmers grew more varied field crops out of flour and baked goods from crops the crop’s impact on the farm, the farmer of necessity. The technology that allows other than established wheat varieties. may choose to expand acreage for narrow rotations to flourish is relatively Successful collaborations could result in developing markets. A related concern new in the history of agriculture. The greater availability of, and better prices is quality; it may prove challenging for current composition of the domestic flour for, quality flour milled from diverse field farmers to raise grain to the quality supply is not cast in cement. American crops. Two ideas bakers may consider specifications needed for bread, beer, bread bakers are in a unique position when seeking to gain access to high- and distilled spirits. Another important to reduce the environmental footprint quality, affordable flour from diverse partner in realizing a greater availability of agriculture, enhance food system grains include collaborating with other of diverse flour in a given community resilience, stabilize farm income, and grain buyers, and utilizing farm and rural is the population of farmers who raise create economic opportunities in rural development programs that can assess livestock or own a scale-appropriate communities. By demanding more varied demands, develop rural businesses, and feed mill. If the grain crop isn’t useful for grains and collaborating with farmers and support farmers in making changes that human consumption, which is especially other grain-consuming businesses, bakers carry environmental benefits. likely when introducing a new crop into can give farmers the confidence to expand rotation, the intrepid farmer may be able In addition to millers and bakers, their rotations beyond the dominant corn, to dispose of it and recover some cost maltsters, brewers, and distillers can soybean, and wheat-focused formulas. by feeding it to livestock. The lack of a utilize less-common grains in their This may prove especially true during secondary market for grain that does not products. If these businesses collaborate this particular moment in history as the meet specifications is a major obstacle to and approach farmers together, farmers environmental issues with dominant crop diversifying the grain supply. may be confident enough in the collective systems receive increasing attention and demand to add a new crop to their The benefits that can be achieved through the ongoing pandemic causes a revival in rotations. Depending on the scale of the a more diverse grain supply are implicitly home baking. businesses in question, a farmer may be attested to by federal programs that can Bakers may improve their businesses able to experiment and try growing a facilitate coordination between bakers, and achieve environmental and social new crop gradually. A smaller tract may other grain users, and farmers. These

Farm fields in Iowa. PHOTOS: THOMAS DRISCOLL THOMAS PHOTOS:

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Farm fields in Iowa. Gourmet bakery, Washington, DC.

programs may also be supplemented by similar endeavors at the state level or by local economic development programs. However, the scale of government investment in these programs is much smaller than it is for the insurance subsidies and market development programs in which taxpayer funds are farmer capacity, and interest in local and Where bakers and other prospective grain invested to secure the stability of the regional grain. USDA’s Rural Development processors have established potential global agricultural system. But programs agency (RD) offers competitive financing markets for diverse grains, they may that operate at local and regional levels and grants for renewable energy be able to collaborate with farmers and may be more flexible. Through programs installations that encourage businesses to coordinate applications to these programs. like the Local Food Promotion Program, create jobs in qualified rural communities. This will help make the chain less painful the Agricultural Marketing Service (AMS) This could include bakeries, flour mills, and and risky to each participating farmer within the US Department of Agriculture malt houses located out among the farms while forging trust and strong bonds with (USDA) offers grant funds that can be where the grain is grown. And USDA’s future suppliers. used to assess the feasibility of or to Natural Resources Conservation Service As different as baking and farming may support the initial steps in pursuit of (NRCS) provides technical support, be, they have a lot in common. Consumer local and regional markets for diverse cost-share, and incentive payments interest and government programs can grains. Bakers, brewers, and distillers for environmental benefits achieved help, but trust reigns supreme. Now that could collaborate on applications to this through a farmer’s change in growing you’ve read this, please don’t take my program with a proposal for hiring a practice (or maintenance of an ongoing word for it. Please go talk to a farmer!. ✹ consultant to assess consumer demand, environmentally beneficial practice).

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At Ardent Mills and The Annex by Ardent Mills, CALLS FOR we work directly with farmers to grow unique and hard-to-find ARTISAN grains. Whether you’re looking for grain berries, flakes, cracked grains or flour, call us at 888-680-0013 or visit ardentmills.com to learn more or GRAINS request a sample.

SIMPLY MILLED™ ORGANIC FLOURS • TRANSITIONAL WHEAT FLOUR • RYE

BLACKJACK™ BARLEY • PURE-PURPLE™ BARLEY • MALTED BARLEY • SPELT

TRITICALE • SORGHUM • WHITE SONORA WHEAT • COLORADO QUINOA™

AND MORE...

© 2019 ARDENT MILLS, LLC

Ardent Mills Artisan Grains Print Ad 4/C HALF-PAGE 4/c Half-Page, Non-Bleed Trim: 7.75 x 4.75 Bread Lines NON-BLEED Updated november 2019 Prepared by Ketchum West, SF 415-984-6108

Filename: AM_ArtisanGrains-Baking-2019-BreadLines

{ 64 } THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA 2019–2021 GUILD PARTNERS

Get baking tips anytime with Grain Craft’s “Dough with Dave” videos.

Topics include: • Scaling & Rounding • Mixing • Fermentation Flour that rises above.

graincraft.com/technical MILLING WHEAT INTO FLOUR FOR MORE THAN 100 YEARS. www.graincraft.com • #iheartgluten #iheartgluten

BBGA’S ANNUAL CALENDAR IS AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE

You have the opportunity to purchase additional copies of the calendar, featuring member bakers and bread lovers from around the country. This delicious treat will make the perfect gift for yourself, a friend or that special customer.

But wait, there’s more!! Not only will you receive this gorgeous calendar with 13-months of mouth-watering photos, but you’ll also receive a formula booklet so you can recreate any of the breads you see featured in the calendar.

$15.00 + tax (shipping included) Order online – bbga.org/store

BREAD LINES – WINTER 2020 { 65 } 1129 Industrial Avenue, Suite 206 Petaluma, CA 94952

SPECIAL THANKS THE BREAD BAKERS GUILD OF AMERICA TO OUR 2019-2021 Bread Lines Co-Editors Sophia Gagakuma Donated Supplies GOLD LEVEL PARTNERS Connie Cox Amy Halloran Giusto’s Vitagrain Carlos Ruiz Nate Hough King Arthur Baking Company Chayil Hyland Bread Lines Content Board Chair Andrew Janjigian Manager Solveig Tofte Tricia Kump Lucas Monahan Jamie Laukhuf Vice Chair Bread Lines Proofreader Jason Laukhuf Nancy Carey Sonja Burchard Mark Levy Kristen Lopez Treasurer Bread Lines Designer James MacGuire Connie Cox Kirsten Finstad Annalysse Melendez Board of Directors Formula Editors Emily Meseck Melina Kelson (Current Issue) Rebecca Miller Richard Miscovich David Bergman Richard Miscovich Carlos Ruiz Elizabeth Southard Emily Moody Eugenia Theodosopoulos Formula Reviewers Martin Ouimet (Current Issue) Eric Pallant Board of Directors Amanda Benson Misa Pat Advisory Aileen Semenetz Gonzalo Picón Phyllis Enloe Emanuel Villa Melissa Rivard Craig Ponsford Mitch Stamm Contributors Thomas Teffri-Chambelland Executive Director Maria Birnbaum-Kaiser Solveig Tofte Mitch Stamm Carrie Brisson Emanuel Villa Director of Operations Abigail Carter Wilhelm Wanders Rebecca Miller Karen Carter Debbie Wink Edna Cochez Jeff Yankellow Finance Director Allen Cohn Cathy Wayne Tom Driscoll Donated Facilities 707.935.1468 Amber Eisler King Arthur Baking School Tel Jessica Eng Sun Street Breads [email protected] bbga.org

IG @kingarthurflour The material printed in Bread Lines may not be IG @centralmilling reproduced or copied without written permission from The Bread Bakers Guild of America.