CREW RESTATING EARNINGS/2 DESIGNERS UNDER PRESSURE/18 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily •WEDNESDAY The Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • September 15, 2004 • $2.00

TheNEW YORK — The Tweed spring collection Marc Jacobs showedLife on Monday night was festive and charming. The front row was full of stars, including J.Lo and the Olsen twins, and the collection was replete with dazzling looks that had a youthful currency. There were preppy looks such as dotted bow-neck , a micro-daisy printed tent and the key , which was full and swishing. Here, Jacobs’ latest version of a tweed , with an overscaled pattern made of colorful organza strips and worn with a fluid skirt and . For more on the season, see pages 8 to 13. The Evolution of : New Label, Accessories Lead Firm’s Retail Push By Rose Apodaca Jones — At age 22, Guess Inc. is striving to regain footing in the fast- market the founding Marciano brothers helped pioneer through a new contemporary division and accessories retail chain, a European business that is up 25 percent in the last year and a distribution formula emphasizing Guess’ signature stores. Co-chief executive officers Maurice and Paul Marciano are literally putting their famous name on the line to show they can adapt to a rapidly changing marketplace. The strategies are already See A New, Page 14 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWDWEDNESDAY Sportswear Aug. Retail Sales Show Drop in Apparel FASHION The New York Collections hit the home stretch, with shows from designers By Joanna Ramey all retail sales last month were the Economic Forecasting Center up 4.9 percent, with clothing and at Georgia State University, said, 8 such as Donna Karan, Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors and Ellen Tracy. WASHINGTON — The up-and- accessories store sales posting a “High energy costs clearly are one down economy was handed an- 2.4 percent gain for the period. thing that hits the pocketbook for other negative Tuesday as the The government also has re- clothing and expenditures.” GENERAL Commerce Department reported vised upward its tally of July Not all retail sectors were in At age 22, Guess Inc. is striving to regain its footing with a new that retail sales at clothing and clothing and accessories store an August sales slump. For exam- 1 contemporary unit, accessories chain and a fresh distribution formula. accessories stores in August fell sales. Instead of a 0.1 percent ple, sporting goods, hobby, book The Commerce Department reported that retail sales at clothing and a seasonally adjusted 1.4 percent drop, Commerce said they in- and music stores saw sales gain 2 accessories stores in August fell a seasonally adjusted 1.4 percent against July. against July, contributing to the creased 0.2 percent. 1.4 percent for the month and 3.7 overall uneven retail picture. Sales at department and gen- percent for the year. Health and About 200 unionized workers at Judith Leiber’s Manhattan factory went on The drop in clothing and ac- eral merchandise stores are also personal care store sales in- 16 strike Tuesday, nearly five months after their contract expired. cessories store sales and a 2 seeing a seesaw pattern. General creased 1 percent in August Profits at French Connection climbed 12.9 percent in the first half, thanks to percent decline in auto sales merchandise stores, including against July and were up 5.3 per- healthier margins and a vigorous wholesale business in the U.K. can be largely blamed for drag- discounters, saw sales dip 0.4 per- cent from August 2003, and gro- 21 ging down retail sales as a cent in August against July, but cery sales grew 0.8 percent for whole, which fell 0.3 percent for compared with August 2003, they the month and were up 3.3 per- IN THE MAINSTREAM the month. In July, all retail rose 3.8 percent. Commerce also cent over the 12 months. The push by vendors and merchants to create exclusive brands has raised sales increased 0.8 percent, fol- has revised its July general mer- The economy has been a cen- the cost and risk of doing business on Seventh Avenue. lowing June’s dip of 0.5 percent. chandise sales figure to a gain of tral presidential campaign issue 18 Department stores, which 0.8, instead of a 1 percent rise. and rivals terrorism among vot- have been in a prolonged slump, Ken Goldstein, chief econo- ers’ top concerns in opinion WEST COAST also lost ground in August, falling mist with the Conference Board, polls. President Bush’s campaign Brands at the ASR trade show in San Diego focused on catering to the 0.8 percent month-on-month said consumers may just be on Tuesday reacted to the weak maturing surfer girl who wants more fashionable looks. after two consecutive monthly searching for deep bargains, de- retail sales report by highlight- 22 gains. Compared with August spite apparel prices in July falling ing recent gains in service-sector 2003, department store sales last 0.8 percent after four months of revenues, increased temporary SUZY month were off 3.3 percent. gains. If sales continue to slide employment hiring and large Bobby Short’s friends gather to celebrate the crooner’s 80th…The jet set “August represented another into September and October, gains in machine tool orders. descends on Mykonos…Top Dog Gala ahead. notch in a schizophrenic summer “then it’s a problem and would First Lady Laura Bush, cam- 4 for retail sales,” Rosalind Wells, certainly spell disaster come hol- paigning Tuesday in Wisconsin, Classified Advertisements ...... 23-27 the National Retail Federation’s iday time, but I don’t see that cited the low national unemploy- chief economist, said in a state- being the case,” Goldstein said, ment rate of 5.4 percent and of 4.7 To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is ment, blaming last month’s sales his economic optimism buoyed percent in Wisconsin as a meas- [email protected], using the individual’s name. declines on wet weather, a late by 144,000 new jobs added to the ure of economic health. “And WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPYRIGHT ©2004 Labor Day and the absence of $300 economy in August and gradual today, more families than ever be- FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. child tax credits, which helped gains in the Labor Department fore, especially minority families, VOLUME 188, NO. 58. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional fuel retail coffers a year ago. index measuring hourly earnings. own their own homes,” she said issue in January, May, June and November; two additional issues in February, April, September, October and December; and three additional issues in March and August, by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 7 Compared with August 2003, Rajeev Dhawan, director of in the town of Middleton. West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers Inc.: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Steven T. Florio, Vice Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, C.O.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice-President and C.F.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice-President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice-President_ Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice-President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice-President_Real Estate; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice- President_General Manager, Advance Magazine Group Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40032712. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: 4960-2 Walker Road, Windsor, ON N9A 6J3. J. Crew to Restate Results, Posts Loss POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR By Meredith Derby J. Crew said the bottom line was DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four weeks is impacted by additional interest required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production NEW YORK — As J. Crew said it expense of $9 million, relating correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 7 West 34th Street, New York, NY 10001. For permissions and reprint requests, will be restating its financials, to the dividend payout. please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild the retailer swung to a second- Total consolidated revenue magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully quarter loss from a profit a year for the second quarter increased screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive ago and widened its loss for the 12.6 percent to $188 million from these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED first half. $167 million a year ago, while MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND The wider loss was mostly same-store sales jumped 12 per- TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART due to additional interest ex- cent. By division, retail sales WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED penses relating to $8 million of rose 14.9 percent to $139 million, TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE preferred stock dividend pay- while Internet and catalogue ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED OVERNIGHT-DELIVERY RETURN ENVELOPE, POSTAGE PREPAID. outs, the company said Tuesday. sales were $44 million, up 15.8 Total interest expense increased percent. Other revenue fell 33.3 to $22 million from $13 million percent to $6 million. last year, the company said on a The company touted the mo- In Brief subsequent conference call. mentum of its turnaround cam- J. Crew noted on the call that paign and reported operating ● BAHRAIN FTA INKED: The U.S. and and the Middle East is- it filed a Form 8-K with the income in the quarter climbing land nation of Bahrain on Tuesday penned a free trade agree- Securities and Exchange Com- to $8 million from a loss of $15 ment that must be approved by Congress. The two countries mission on Sept. 9, saying it will million in the year-ago quarter. traded about $900 million in goods last year. Bahrain’s apparel restate its financial results for fis- “We couldn’t be more pleased exports, mostly in cotton clothing, accounted for less than half a cal year 2003 and the first quar- with the customer’s response to percent of all garments imported into the U.S. In turn, U.S. tex- ter of 2004 to reflect “the write- our intense focus on improving tile mills exported about $1.1 million in mostly industrial fabrics offs of certain prepaid sample the quality, fit, design, style, to Bahrain and about $660 million in apparel. costs” that should have been color and fabrication of our taken during those periods. As a merchandise, which is reflected ● EXECS BACK KERRY: Democratic presidential candidate Sen. result, the company’s full-year in gains across all of our busi- John Kerry picked up endorsements Tuesday from executives at 2003 loss will be widened by $2.9 Millard nesses,” said Millard Drexler, Drexler 30 sportswear or sporting goods companies. According to a list million to $50.2 million. The first- chief executive officer of J. provided by the Kerry campaign, his new backers include Peter quarter 2004 loss will be widened Crew, in a statement. Bragden, vice president and general counsel at Columbia by $500,000 to $23.8 million. in at $14 million, which com- The gross margin rate in the Sportswear, Portland, Ore.; Patagonia Inc.’s chief executive offi- For the quarter ended July pares with earnings of $15 mil- quarter rose to 39 percent from cer, Michael Crooke, and Brian Bennett, director of national ac- 31, the company’s net loss came lion in the year-earlier period. 31 percent last year, the compa- counts at the Ventura, Calif. company; Gordon Seabury, presi- ny said, citing lower markdowns dent of Horny Toad Activewear, Santa Barbara, Calif; Steve and less clearance sales. Barker, ceo, Eagle Creek Travel Gear, San Diego; Tony Post, The company said inventory president, Vibram, Concord, Mass.; Joan Keller, president, Le at July 31 was up 11 percent due Travel Store, San Diego, and Dan Nordstrom, ceo of Outdoor ROBERTA to seasonal merchandise in all Research, Seattle. The executives named couldn’t be reached channels, but was offset by less for immediate comment. SCARPA aged inventory. In the six months ended July ● NY&CO. SETS IPO PRICE: In a Securities and Exchange 31, the retailer had a net loss of Commission filing, New York & Company Inc. said it was looking Show-room Attila: $38 million, which compares to a to sell 10 million common shares at a price of $14 to $16 per 552, Seventh Avenue, 2nd Floor loss of $5 million last year. But on share in an initial public offering. Proceeds of the sale will be New York, NY 10018 an operating income basis, the used to pare down debt. The lead underwriter is Bear Stearns & company posted a profit of $5 tel. 1.212.944.4700 Co. In the filing, the retailer said profits were $4.1 million for million, from a loss of $25 million the six-month period ended July 31 on sales that totaled $494.9 fax 1.212.921.0123 last year. Total revenue in the million. The firm operates 474 stores in 43 states. six-month period was $334 mil- lion, up 1.5 percent.

4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Celebrating Bobby Short ● For Your Benefit ● Greek Chic

London hostess; Peter Rogers; Geraldine Stutz; Jean Lynn Bach; Frank Bowling, in from Beverly Hills; Mica and Wyatt Ahmet Ertegun; Kitty Carlisle Hart, in and feathers; Joe Eula; Irith Landau Federman, the Israeli hotel heiress, and more, more, more. Lynn Wyatt wore a stunning beaded dress from To m Ford’s last collection. Someone stepped on her train, but it really didn’t matter. As the old saying goes, she’d look good in a gunny sack. All it takes for her is a combination of really great genes and a trainer who won’t let go. ● The ladies who plot and plan the new season’s benefit parties and galas work hard to help those in need, and doing it year after year is no easy feat. But still they plow on and on and on. So, The Society of Memorial Sloan Kettering Cancer Center will host a luncheon and a Bill Blass fashion show at Saks Fifth Avenue on Monday to kick off its big preview at the Park Avenue Armory on Oct. 21. This year’s co-chairs — Jamee Gregory, Leslie Jones and Lavinia Snyder, plus their committee — are vowing to raise $1 million. Way to go, ladies. ● Dogs and cats are barking and meowing all over town about the Animal Medical Center’s Top Dog Gala to be held at the Waldorf-Astoria on Sept. 22. Among those buying tickets and tables are Oscar and Annette de la Renta, Eliza and Alex Bolen, Nancy and Henry Kissinger, Emilia and Pepe Fanjul, Cynthia Phipps, Pauline Pitt, Donna and Bill Acquavella, Carroll Petrie and Eliza Eliza Eugenie Niven, animal Bolen lovers all. The chairmen of the party are Wendy and Stephen Lash, and the junior committee is headed up by Alexia Hamm Ryan and Shoshanna Gruss. But the night’s real guest of honor is Winston, a heroic seven-year-old black labrador, one of the NYPD’s Explosive Canines who keep our city safe. ● Suzy Annette de la Renta Caroline Kennedy By Aileen Mehle Schlossberg will present the Municipal Who doesn’t love Bobby Short? Don’t ask Arts Society’s me because I certainly do. And so do Jacqueline Kennedy thousands and thousands of others who Onassis medal to eye® have heard the darling, superbly talented MoMA’s former man sing in that instantly recognizable voice president, the one and like no other and play the piano like the incomparable only Agnes Gund, on entertainer he has been since he first begin playing when Oct. 5 at the opening of he was a little boy in the South. His New York home One Beacon Court, the through his long and famous career has been the Carlyle building designed by Hotel, where his appearances have drawn adoring fans Cesar Pelli with night after night. Dear Bobby. He makes so many people interiors by Jacques so happy, even when he sings those sad, sad songs. Did Grange. The gala’s co- you know he is 80 years old? I know, I know. But it’s true. chairs are David And on a clear day and a good night — and for him they are Rockefeller, Dorothy all good — he looks half his age. and Lewis B. Cullman Some of the friends who love this legend best gave him and John Whitehead. a big 80th birthday party at the Rainbow Room the other The medal bears night. Hosted by such luminaries as Lynn and Oscar Wyatt, Jackie’s name in recognition of her tireless efforts to Christina Wyeth, Lisa and David Schiff, Casey Ribicoff, preserve and protect New York’s great architecture. Yanna and Warren Avis, Susan Fales-Hill and Aaron Hill, ● Alex Hitz and Larry Chrysler, it wasn’t just another night The exotic Greek isle of Mykonos might just as well on the town, because everybody came to wish him many have had its own fashion week. Valentino pulled his happy returns. Bobby’s great chum, the magnificent glamorous yacht right into the island’s picturesque Ornos Jessye Norman, wearing one of the towering that Bay and practically right into the bedroom of Jean Paul are her trademark, sang a cappella and brought down the Gaultier’s suite at the Kivotos, the island’s hottest house. Tony Bennett sang without a mike, if you please. Cy boutique hotel that perches on the cliff over the bay. Coleman took to the piano and sang and played some of his Patrick Stewart is also staying at the Kivotos, with a hip tunes. Barbara Carroll, another top pianist and Bobby’s mystery blonde in her late 20s who shall be nameless, longtime friend, showed why she has been such a success namely because we don’t know her name. But, va-va- through the years, and Julie Wilson and her ever-present voom. Also dropping anchor in the bay was Bill Gates’ white gardenia favored the group with one of her best- seemingly endless boat, Goygpus, as well as yachts known ballads. belonging to such golden Greek clans as the Niarchoses In the crowd were Maria Cooper Janis and Byron Janis; and Goulandrises. Thierry Mugler, while in Mykonos, was Wendy Vanderbilt Lehman with Dr. Frank Petito; Marti seen night after night at Piero’s, the island’s answer to Stevens; Anne Slater with John Cahill; the famous Elaine why nobody goes to bed until morning. Other fashionable (the restaurateuse of song and storybook); Nan Kempner figures on the whitewashed isle this summer were Calista in summery white by Ferré; Amy Fine Collins of “The God Flockhart and Harrison Ford, who rented not only one villa of Driving;” Jane and Peter Marino; Gil Shiva; Ellin but the four surrounding ones to ensure that whatever Saltzman; Dina Merrill, in black and white polkadots, with they are doing together these days, they can do in private. Ted Hartley; Pamela Fiori; Marguerite Littman, the noted Good for them, everybody hates a showoff. PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY With SAS, the leader in business intelligence software, and Marketmax, a division of SAS, the leader in merchandise intelligence… Imagine always knowing your customer’s next move. Then stop imagining.

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SAS and all other SAS Institute Inc. product or service names are registered trademarks or trademarks of SAS Institute Inc. in the USA and other countries. ® indicates USA registration. Other brand and product names are trademarks of their respective companies. © 2004 SAS Institute Inc. All rights reserved. 271870US.0404 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM

UNINVITED GUESTS: New York City’s just not big enough for two rival celebrity magazines – at least not Vitals to Launch Women’s Version MEMO PAD during fashion week. Us Weekly By Sara James Zee agreed. “This particular blend of partisans are claiming they had to lifestyle, product and unapologetic service SHOW TIMES: The New York Times’ have several representatives of Star NEW YORK — Turns out Fairchild’s new lux- is a really concrete idea that, we think, will Cathy Horyn said in Monday’s front- ejected from a party at the Bryant ury lifestyle magazine Vitals is a cross-dresser. cross over well with both audiences,” he page story about the spring 2005 Park Hotel’s Cellar Bar last Thursday Fairchild president and chief executive said. “The hope is to be practical and func- collections, “There are 169 shows night — a claim that appears slightly officer Mary Berner will today unveil a sig- tional for both genders.” on the eight-day bill, and to see exaggerated. Us gave the party to nificant development in the positioning of Though the split editorial configuration them all you would need eyes not celebrate the publication of Patrick the company’s new magazine. Beginning came as a surprise to many media watchers, an only in the back of your head but McMullan’s latest book, “In Tents.” with the February/March issue hitting news- earlier move giving Alston control of ad sales also at the sides.” Of course, having According to an Us Weekly stands Feb.15, Vitals will begin alternating indicated the title might be looking to cultivate eyes like a Pectinidae bivalve spokeswoman, an unidentified as a men’s and women’s title with a frequen- its softer side. “When we first saw the editori- mollusk isn’t actually necessary for staffer from the magazine entered cy of eight issues a year — four aimed at men al product,” said Alston, “we thought it didn’t those who, like Horyn, work at the the restroom shortly before the start and four at women. need to be just a subset of Details. It had the Times. There, reporters can schedule of the event to find Star’s “This is the first time anything like this potential to be bigger than that.” private appointments with designers spokesmodels, the Pink Ladies, has been attempted in the publishing Zee plans to continue to use celebrity as a to view collections and then write making plans to crash the party and world,” said Joe Zee, Vitals’ editor in chief, “springboard” for lifestyle content now that about them as if they’d attended the distribute copies of Star. The staffer whose decision to target women was prompt- women have been added to the mix. shows. Horyn, who reviewed Tuleh notified security, who escorted the ed by what he saw as an unmet need in the “Cameron Diaz is into surfing, Reese marketplace. “I think there’s a group of Witherspoon is a producer and a young and Derek Lam in Tuesday’s paper, models out, she said. A Star intelligent women out there that doesn’t mother. That’s relevant to a lot of readers,” was noticeably absent from the front spokeswoman countered that the want to read, ‘This is what slims your figure,’ he said, hinting at potential future cover row at either collection (though her models were merely using the but does want a lifestyle service magazine subjects. colleague Guy Trebay did turn up at bathroom to get ready for a press that addresses their needs in a smart, peer- “We don’t approach celebrity as being Tuleh). Nevertheless, on Tuesday, event featuring Lil’ Kim, who was to-peer voice.” invasive,” said Zee. “The point is, these peo- Horyn wrote, “Bryan Bradley [Tuleh’s staying at the hotel while covering Added vice president and publisher ple often lead interesting lives that the designer] and Derek Lam share a the shows for Star. Whatever they Alyce Alston, who also is publisher of W: world doesn’t necessarily know about.” He fondness for clothes that convey a were up to, the bar’s manager “When you read Vitals for Men, it begs for a added that a key element in courting cover sense of intimacy.” The question is confirmed the Ladies were asked to sister companion. The New Yorker, Condé subjects is using highly specialized writers. whether that sense of intimacy was leave the party area: “We didn’t Nast Traveler, Vanity Fair, Departures, Town “It might be a matter of sending in, like we enhanced by showroom tête à têtes throw them out, but we kind of & Country — these are all magazines that did with [September cover subject] Matt with the designers — Lam was hurried them up a little bit.” reach both male and female audiences and Damon, an accomplished sports writer to quoted discussing his influences in The spokeswoman for Us also are a dual target for advertisers.” (W, Details, talk about the Red Sox.” Horyn’s piece, which made no claimed that Star columnist and The New Yorker, Condé Nast Traveler and A total of 125,000 copies of the first Vitals mention of an off-site viewing. When reality TV star Victoria Gotti tried to Vanity Fair, like WWD, are all owned by for women will be sent to newsstands. The asked if Trebay offered contributions crash the party with one of her sons Advance Publications Inc.) other 160,000 copies will go to a targeted cir- to the Tuleh review, a Times source only to be shown the door. The But while those other magazines’ month- culation group whose income and purchas- said, “There were no contributors manager, however, said Gotti, at ly content is evenly blended, giving each ing power are similar of their male counter- to the article [on Tuesday]. If least, merely stopped in to use the publication a consistent identity, Alston said parts. As for advertising, “It’ll be called the of Fairchild’s new approach, “I think when Vitals network,” said Alston. “Advertisers Cathy’s not at a show, she’s at a restroom. A security guard from the you provide the degree of service that Vitals can buy space in women’s or men’s or both private showing.” Guess that’s one hotel confirmed his account, adding provides, it needs to be specific to women and earn frequency. So it behooves an adver- way to avoid the mad rush at that he held Gotti’s bag while she and specific to men.” tiser to stay within the network.” Bryant Park. — Sara James was in the loo. – Jeff Bercovici D&G Brings New Look to America

By Anamaria Wilson U.S. president. “There is all this play of transparency and reflective materials that make what is hanging or NEW YORK — Dolce & Gabbana’s seven-year itch clear- what is laying on top of shelves appear multifold. It cre- ly rendered its SoHo outpost makeover ready, as the ates a fun-house-mirror effect.” store just received a major overhaul seven years to the This bolder, almost psychedelic turn comes at a time month after it first opened. when the company is looking to build D&G’s business The store, at 434 West Broadway, has been renovated as well as its image. to reflect the new prototype for D&G stores — the first While D&G has a global business of $490 million, of which bowed earlier this spring in London with the Forte conceded the brand has yet to fully mature in the Milan store set to be renovated late this year. The SoHo U.S. market. However, the company aims to change that unit’s need for a redesign was bolstered when the com- in the future. “In the next two years, what we would like The store’s runway-like appeal. pany scooped up an adjacent retail space of 2,000 to do is really put our anchors solidly in the ground,” square feet last year. said Forte. “We are going to develop D&G and refine the last three or four years,” said Forte. “The business has The space now boasts 9,000 square feet of stainless the message of the brand to fully communicate what the continued to build on its hallmark fame and it has refined steel, translucent mirrors, see-through shelves and world of D&G is.” each one of its classifications — , suitings, evening jumbo logos in vibrant green. “The look for the space is The new focus on D&G follows strong growth at the and accessories. Business has developed even further one of a box,” said Gabriella Forte, Dolce & Gabbana’s core brand. “Dolce & Gabbana’s success has solidified in with the full-fledged introduction of men’s wear.” Forte attributes the company’s increased sales to the popularity of its designs, its fit and the price structure, along with strong production schedules and timely deliveries. From the inside Despite SoHo’s troubled retail clime, Forte is still lookinglooking out.out. optimistic about the store’s business there. “We’ve been there for a while now and it has always produced very well. Our line has evolved,” explained Forte. “Before, it was lots of , T- and all of that, but now there is this new chic bad-girl look, so we can sort of cover the whole gamut.” And if sales its opening weekend are any indication, the company’s $6 million forecast for first-year store sales is on target. “Business was very good over the weekend,” said Forte. “We did close to $100,000.” Bestsellers included belts, crocheted sweaters, hand- bags, distressed black leather with fur collars, tweed , pants, , with rhinestones, floral and chiffon and lace dresses. Retail prices for the D&G line range from $445 to $695 for ; $215 to $495 for tops; $245 to $395 for jeans; $215 to $600 for , and $390 to $645 for women’s . There are currently eight D&G boutiques in the U.S. The company plans to refurbish some of its other D&G boutiques, as well as to open others, although Forte declined to provide details. PHOTOS BY KEITH SMITH PHOTOS BY Right look. Right size. Right fit. When it comes to expanding your business, Robert K. Futterman & Associates is the perfect accessory. Whether you’re looking to expand locally, regionally or nationally, our team of retail leasing experts will work with you to analyze your business objectives and devise a customized expansion strategy that meets your needs. We’ll also analyze future trends and emerging market opportunities to ensure your long-term growth. And like that great pair of pumps, we’re the ideal fit. To learn more, call Robert Futterman at 212.599.3700.

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Transforming the retail landscape. www.rkf.com 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2004 Bright (and Dark) Youn Marc Jacobs celebrated “youth and beauty” on the runway…Michael Kors worked Greek chic…and, for somet

Marc Jacobs: Is the fashion moment passé? One Marc Jacobs Marc by would be hard put to say yes after Marc attending the Marc Jacobs show on Jacobs Monday night, an event that took in more star power than a Galileo telescope. The Olsen duet. Lil’ Kim teetering by. J.Lo and Marc Anthony doing their bizarre separate arrivals bit. And on and on, all packed into a tent at Pier 54 on the West Side Highway. Yes, that pier, last visited by the Jacobs’ show Donna entourage on September 10, 2001. ▲ Karan “It was time for us to quit being Marc scared,” said Robert Duffy, who Jacobs fielded numerous calls of concern in the preceding days. “It felt right to send the message that we have to keep on going, embrace life and have a party.” And a terrific party it was, on the runway and off. Jacobs’ festive clothes suited the gleeful mood, and not just the finale of poufed-out deb dresses. “I wanted to do something colorful and up,” he said after the show. “Youth and beauty, that’s it.” In fact, one could argue a bit too young at times in its giddy vibrance. “It reminded me of dressing my doll when I was little,” said one editor, her delight tempered slightly by concern for her own . But while bow-necked sweaters in Marc by ginghams and dots had an Marc intentional jeune prep Jacobs buoyancy, the shapes anchoring the collection were ageless: a full, swishing skirt, cut in multiples and often edged in sequins; roomy Donna Donna , rolled to midcalf. The Karan Karan dresses, too, were divine, starting with a magical micro- daisy printed tent, opened — and jeweled — on one side over a faux . And for those wondering what more Marc could possibly do with a “tweed” — suffice it to say there will be a waiting list for the giant herringbones woven from colorful organza strips. For evening, Jacobs has only grudgingly done his part of late at the pleading of stores and editors, and here took back a little with nary a in sight. Instead, he focused on Sigma Chi sweethearts with frocks of tightly packed ruffles or silk poplin flaunting giant bows. Yet, when it comes to tossing a great party, decorative clothes just aren’t enough. To that end, Duffy recruited Raul Avila to create a botanical extravaganza, starting with the bower encircling the models’ entrance to the runway and extending to the party tent. Avila strung up 425,000 blooms, give or take a bouquet-full, acquired during a two-day siege of the garden district. “I like your flowers,” LVMH’s Bertrand Stalla- Bourdillon told Duffy at the party. “No,” Duffy responded. “They’re your flowers.” The blossoms were long gone by Tuesday afternoon — pilfered by appreciative party guests — when Jacobs presented Marc by Marc Jacobs in the same space. As it turned out, the carpe diem spirit of his 55 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2004 9 WWW.WWD.COM

models was all that was needed, done up as they were in Michael all sorts of adorable garb. Here, Jacobs sent a definite Kors message, moving away from his now familiar jeans- centric presentations. He focused instead on casual dresses, feisty athletic elements and delightfully dizzying compilations of color and pattern. ng Things Donna Karan: “If you like this, you won’t like collection,” Donna Karan cautioned at DKNY. “They’re totally different.” thing completely different, there was Donna Karan. And how. For her Donna Karan collection, the designer made one of the boldest moves of the season, one that, quite frankly, fell flat with many in her audience. To each his own, although few could deny that Karan deserves Michael kudos for taking so audacious a leap. She, New York Kors fashion’s great doyenne of a self-created New Age modernist-artisanal hybrid, came down definitively in favor of a dramatic, haute industrial motif. It was gutsy and very specific, and some of us, as Sally Field might say, really liked it. In typical Donnaspeak, Karan called her collection “Constructing the Future,” citing in her program notes “rebirth with an industrial soul.” Out there, perhaps, but the message was more than daffy. Karan is one of the few designers in New York this season to have charged fearlessly into something new, albeit with nods to Azzedine Alaïa and Helmut Lang. So she bid at least a momentary adieu to all that back-to- nature, cross-cultural ornamentation she loves. Instead, she opted for a clean, authoritarian aesthetic, one that worked industrialist — and a few Starship Enterprise — influences new into something well beyond cliché, as she leveraged them against ultrafeminine corsetry and york draping. And different as it was, she kept it all within a context that was unmistakably Donna Karan. Thus, Karan worked in all of her signatures: the razor-sharp , the languid jerseys, sportif sweats, , the cold shoulder, the elaborate boning on evening dresses. Only now, she rendered it all in versions that replaced the artsy with Michael Kors ▲ the industrial in insets of utilitarian netting and laces, even on the corset looks. And she worked mostly in a palette of cool grays, giving in to the occasional blast of cobalt and fuchsia. And naysayers aside, much of it was plenty sexy in an antigirly-girl kind of way. True, sometimes it all became too studied, and those balloon frocks were unfortunate by any measure, but what would fashion be without the occasional gamble?

Michael Kors: “Thank you, Michael Kors, for making me happy on a gray morning.” So said one fashion editor as she left the show on Tuesday. An apt sentiment, since making women happy is the reason Michael Kors does what he does. He has no aspirations toward designer-artiste, nor, for that matter, being the hippest guy in town. He just wants to make beautiful, lively sportswear, the kind that brightens up a dull day and makes a sunny day seem even more so. This time Kors claims to have worked a Greek theme, a carryover from his Olympic fascination. Certainly his preoccupation with aquatic blues could take an Aegean turn, and his more-is-more approach to accessories — straw , major shades, bejeweled and megatotes — suits a girl on the holiday go. But these are clothes that will look snappy anywhere — except perhaps some place as mundane as an office, as Kors really put the sport in sportswear, all the while ruching it up just so. Thus, he worked cashmere, jeans, hand-embroidery, mink and python in all sorts of combinations, his homage ranging from a tony sailor to Elizabeth Taylor. Jeans? They looked divine in white with a bright turquoise , under the chill-chasing luxe of an ombréd mink . But Michael, the pair with perfectly placed rips? Not your girl. For her, distress is a broken nail, not faux ratty . The nauticals, however, another story entirely, in spiffy sweaters over what might be the shortest skirts we’ll see from a major designer this season. In fact, this collection was all about the sportif piece — give or take a leggy minisuit or two — and Kors delivered plenty, ranging from utterly playful to the bold side of lady fare, in big black-and-white tropical prints. He also showed terrific dresses, going sexy in a slice of dark brown with a jeweled illusion neckline and more demure in a peasanty blue silk print. After dark, however, the peasant girl can take a hike. The night belongs to goddesses who can go long and drapy, or if they dare, delightfully indiscreet in short

white jersey appropriately called La Liz. TURNER AND DAVID MITRA ERICKSEN, ROBERT KYLE CENTENO, PHOTOS TALAYA JOHN AQUINO, BY 10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2004 Girls About To Yes, those ubiquitous pretty misses won the popularity contest at Betsey Johnson, BCBG and Rebecca Taylor. But a few collections did venture beyond the season’s girly mandate, including Ellen Tracy with its quiet chic and Halston with glitz.

Betsey Johnson BCBG Max Azria Halston new york

Betsey Johnson: Sayonara to the rock chicks of last season. In her spring show at draped wispy looks that have a certain appeal, but sometimes lack a unique voice. Matsuri in the basement of the Maritime Hotel, Betsey Johnson made a few This time, he found his voice and delivered it to the twang of a folksy beat. Fun references to her Asian inspiration — a chiffon kimono here, a Chinese cotton dresses in bright, cheery colors such as orange, aqua or iris were rich with newspaper printed onto a slipdress there — but the focus of her collection was details, including embroideries or zigzag hems, playing up that folksy look, and really the fun looks that are her signature. There were tons of flirty dresses and sometimes paired with little embroidered vests or jackets. His pants and party looks, such as a teal strapless frock featuring a gold zip-front corset top and were relaxed and loose and looked cute when rolled at the cuffs and paired with shredded taffeta bottom that would be just right for any fete, and a pretty striped sweet jackets and floral-printed tops. Too bad he didn’t try to translate this playful taffeta blouse worn with a flounced velvet skirt that would certainly do for a hot theme into evening. Instead, he reverted to his favorite flowing chiffon numbers. date. There were also white denim pieces and T- dresses offering a touch of Models floated down the runway in his light-as-a-feather frocks in otherworldly street cred. Cute as it all was, the collection could have been a bit more focused. hues of light blue, pink and lilac. And fluid as they were, many were bogged down Still, as the designer cartwheeled and karate-chopped her way down the catwalk to with too many layers of Stevie Nicks-style square hemlines. Overall, however, it was the strains of “Kung Fu Fighting,” it hardly seemed to matter. a solid effort for spring.

Ellen Tracy: This firm usually goes with the less-is-more approach to fashion, in both Halston: While Bradley Bayou is great at creating glitzy, glam looks for his loyal design and presentation, and while the company stayed with the former for spring, it made-to-order customers, they didn’t translate on the runway this season. Perhaps decided to go for a formal show this time because the top executives were so happy it had to do with the fact that sophisticated clothes require an equally sophisticated with the clothes. And who can blame them? It’s nice to know that, in a season where presentation, and the show didn’t do justice to the collection. Bayou sent out 22 loud color is dominant, a gal can always turn to Ellen Tracy for a little peace and looks, mostly slinky and short cocktail dresses with crystals, feathers, quiet. This time, in fact, the collection was almost all white, with a sprinkling of sequins and embroidered lace, but it was the chic and simple pieces that stood out, gentle sherbet tones, such as the pale lavender and cantaloupe knits, and the light such as the short blue wool crepe A-line dress over a tulle crinoline, a sleek ivory floral chiffon dresses and tops that were feminine without being too flirty. A couple wool crepe tuxedo and a slim pewter wool skirt with a long corseted jacket. There of sharp peacoats looked more than seaworthy when paired with cropped pants and were a few more elaborate numbers that reminded one of how Bradley can make belted cardigans, and for the lady boss who wants to give her power the day off, his version of glamour more beautiful than glitzy. He did that with a pink lambskin there was a lovely contrast-border paired with a cotton jacquard vest worn with an embroidered metallic high-waisted skirt and a butterfly-detailed that oozed easy sophistication. shirt with allover micro hand-beading that was too beautiful to be worn with skintight stretch-leather jeans. BCBG Max Azria: After last season’s slump, Max Azria returned with a spring lineup full of whimsy and charm. Azria has long had a love affair with simple and Rebecca Taylor: Absolutely beguiling. Monday night, Rebecca Taylor invited WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2004 11 WWW.WWD.COM

Rebecca Taylor Jacobs were helping out their friend Vivienne Westwood, who has joined the Fashion Scoops cause to free Peltier, a Native American considered by organizations like Amnesty NO COMMENT: For International to be a political prisoner. those who Peltier was convicted in 1975 for the attended the Marc deaths of two FBI agents who were killed Jacobs show and during a 1975 shoot-out on the Pine Ridge accompanying Indian reservation. Jacobs said Westwood is fragrance launch trying to line up fashion industry support on Sept. 10, for the Peltier cause and told him,”All you 2001, the Marc have to do is put it on your program notes Tow n Jacobs show on and everyone who asks, refer them to me.” Ellen Tracy Monday night and ensuing party was ANOTHER ENTRANT: Serena Williams may a serious case of have lost her U.S. Open match to Jennifer déjà vu: same Capriati, but she certainly isn’t sitting home time, same place, Liv Tyler and pouting about it. The tennis diva-cum- different fragrance. Kate Hudson fashionista has been all over town this week, But the memory of hitting shows such as Oscar de la Renta and that bacchanal Calvin Klein, as well as the Sean John store didn’t seem to opening and Coty parties. “I am going to a affect anyone’s lot of events this week because I am trying state of mind this to learn more about the business,” said time, even though Williams Tuesday night at a party for Self the party decor — Magazine’s new three-floor Self Center spa tables laden with in the West Village, which is open only for fruits, nuts and the next month as part of the magazine’s hunks of Parmesan 25th-anniversary celebrations. She said cheese — was she’s interested in staging a runway show eerily similar. next year for her budding Aneres fashion Still, there were line, but will likely do it away from the tents,

some new faces in STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY adding: “I am not ready for that yet.” the front row — Marc Jacobs and Williams sported decidedly un-tennislike Ashley and Mary- Rachel Feinstein attire: She was decked out in sky-high black Kate Olsen, Natalie stilettos and a Douglas Portman, Jennifer Lopez and Marc Anthony cleavage-bearing Hannant — and a new accessory: your own security fitted black guard to fend off the press. Even Winona dress with an Ryder had two pieces of beefcake watching open back, over her, but the real question was — did although when anyone care? asked who the Rachel Feinstein, the star of Marc dress designer Jacobs’ fall 2004 campaign, has found was, she replied that people really don’t care. “No one that she picked knows who the hell I am,” she said, it up at laughing at the fact that a publicist earlier Jacobson’s but had escorted her past the paparazzi pit didn’t know who instructing her to pose for them. “Nobody made it. took my picture,” said Feinstein. “The joke Williams chatted all along has been that I’m going to be so briefly with last season.” KEITH SMITH PHOTOS BY William Lauder, But the show was still one of the hottest and was tickets of the week, so much so that people overhead asking were calling almost up to the start to get in. him if his Benicio Del Toro and Jerry Bruckheimer Self editor in chief Lucy company was desperately phoned around 8 p.m. to see if Danzinger, William owned by Coty, they could nail tickets, but a Jacobs rep Lauder, Serena Williams to which Lauder responded to the request, “Are you and publisher Kim quickly replied, kidding? We turned the Williams sisters Kelleher at the new “No, that is a away at 4.” (Del Toro and Bruckheimer did Self Center; A look inside major get in to the after-party, though.) one of the center’s competitor of Though the celebs with their treatment areas. ours.” bodyguards in tow split after the show, the more laid-back ones stuck around for the IT TAKES ALL KINDS: While the average party. A pregnant Liv Tyler and Kate Hudson New Yorker has little chance of getting drove the paparazzi wild, seated at one of into the big-name fashion shows, the long, low-slung dinner tables. Kate passersby on West 39th Street and Sixth Bosworth, in town to shoot the Revlon ad Avenue Monday afternoon were treated to campaign, smoked cigarettes with a very a brief dose of catwalk antics. scruffy Josh Hartnett. “Tomorrow we’re Under a banner reading “Who Gives shooting the commercial, so I’ve got to go A...,” which hung over a toilet bowl, everyone to step into her enchanted world where woodland creatures and blithe home early,” she said. models paraded along a runway made of spirits frolic in happy coexistence. Taylor does blithe like nobody else, especially For his part, Hartnett tried to analyze folding tables bearing a variety of novelty when she lightens her hand and doesn’t think too hard about where to place the the party scene: “From an anthropological handbags that alternately took slaps at the spangles, ribbons and appliqués that are her stamp. standpoint, it’s really impressive,” he said. Bush administration and other celebrities. All those cotton and silk petticoat dresses and papery chemises, in dusky rose “But I just like the buzz.” One bag, named the “Michael Jackson,” and earth tones, couldn’t have weighed more than the colorful butterflies sprinkled Maybe Hartnett, like Brian Grazer, was designed to look like an upside-down across them. The silver-winged butterflies and a menagerie of deer, rabbits and should stick with his day job. Grazer, who baby, while the “Janet Jackson” included a birds appliquéd on lacy hems were the recurring themes, even when Taylor briefly milled around the after-party attached at replica of a bared breast. flirted with the prairie motif, working in whisper-thin calicos. But should the city the hip to Viacom’s Tom Freston, tried to The show attracted a crowd of about girl be turned away with all this ethereality, Taylor anchored the collection with comment on the artistic significance of 50 people, and took up both parking smart, simple denim and canvas shorts, skirts and shrunken jackets. Taylor can do Jacobs’ spring collection. “His fashion has lanes. cute really well, and in the past, has perhaps relied on that too much. Yet with her really evolved. All the colors — I think it’s When the crew — outfitted in official finale series of breathy smocked and silk gowns, she proved that she can just going to have a big impact on the Olympus Fashion Week T-shirts — started do beautiful just as easily. culture,” he said. Cut him some slack — it to break the set, the graying, bearded was his first fashion show in 13 years. impresario behind it identified himself as Douglas Hannant: For his spring outing, designer Douglas Hannant invoked images Grazer said movies about fashion can be Itsi Atkins and said the performance was of Millicent Rogers, the Standard Oil heiress who lived in Europe and collected “too abstract.” In other words, they are by a group called “Models Against Bush.” Mainbocher before being seduced by the sandy, turquoise-laden beauty of Taos, box-office bombs. Still, he’s thinking about “My goal is to design that New Mexico. But Hannant is an astute designer who knows that his Lunching Lady rolling the dice. makes political statements,” said the clientele isn’t likely to relinquish Park Avenue for the pottery wheel anytime soon. designer, cradling a bag designed to Most of the time, he wisely kept a light touch with turquoise beading, trimming CAUSE CELEBRE: Who is Leonard Peltier? resemble his head. He said he’d also fresh white tweed coats and dresses with the stuff — and even won with a swingy That was the question among those who at- taken on issues including toxic waste and beaded skirt worn with a delicate cashmere tank. However, what Hannant does best tended the Anna Sui and Marc Jacobs environmental damage. is his perennially pretty, tweedy look in the form of no-fuss tailored pieces. Though shows, both of whom had at the bottom of Atkins’ previous claim to fame was as he managed to freshen up this look a bit by pairing a fitted ivory jacket with a their show notes the cryptic line: Leonard head of a group of Manhattan Segway delightfully swingy chiffon skirt, grand and brand-new statements are not his forte. Peltier is Innocent. Turns out Sui and enthusiasts. Hannant is at his best when being straightforward, and some attempts at fashion-

forwardness, such as a couple of fringed, suede looks, didn’t work at all. PHOTOS MITRA GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO, BY 12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2004 On the Artsy Side Vivienne Tam was inspired by China’s Miao people...Reem Acra tried her hand at ruching and draping...Miho Aoki and Thuy Pham evoked Seventies California for United Bamboo...and Lisa Kulson featured bohemian ikat patterns.

Vivienne Tam: This season, Vivienne Tam found Vivienne Tam Reem Acra United Bamboo inspiration in the Miao people of southern China, a highly traditional group known for their striking embroidered clothes. However, while Tam usually favors vivid prints, she went surprisingly Zen and polished for spring. Unlike the Miao themselves, who celebrate color, Tam’s shades were mostly muted. The designer played with her theme throughout the show in the form of rich embroideries and boxy, mandarin-collared jackets with skirts or pants, some of them too literal for the mainstream. She served up plenty of very pretty cotton or silk tops with exquisite embroideries and beading in ivory, navy and jade. When these were paired with her slim or cropped pants, it made the perfect East-meets-West balance. And a lovely, simple with silver border details had just the right amount of Miao influence.

Reem Acra: Last season’s beautiful breakthrough collection was a tough act to follow, and Reem Acra’s spring lineup, unfortunately, proved it. Her polished, exquisitely beaded tea-length dresses for fall were replaced by too many dresses and gowns with pleated skirts, while a couple of frocks from previous collections also were reworked in new colors, and a lovely pale yellow tulle number was

overwhelmed by giant rosettes. ▲ Acra did show some delightful, Y & Kei short tulle dresses in sorbet hues, some of them lightly sprinkled with beading, the best looks of the collection. And the designer also deserves credit for trying to move beyond her signature crystal embroideries. She explored new methods of detailing for spring, including ruching and draping on short jewel-toned satin dresses and ruffled tulle embroideries on dress bodices or pretty and delicate little shrugs.

United Bamboo: Dressing the über-cool downtown It Girl is what United Bamboo designers Miho Aoki and Thuy Pham do best. And Monday’s show got off to a good start with easy poet’s new blouses, short-shorts, tunic tops and rhumba dresses in floral-print chiffons and crinkle gauzes, all of it york evoking a Seventies California boho spirit with a touch of modern cool. But then the music for the show hit a glitch, and so did the clothes. Out came a group in hard-to-wear fabrics, flesh-toned chiffon and satin, culottes, harem wear, that off-the-shoulder suit in apricot pants and a braid-detailed off-the- being one of them,” she said. Peters is shoulder dress, which looked a tad frumpy. about to record her own album, singing The soundtrack returned, however, and the the songs that she grew up with — collection ended on a positive note with Fashion Scoops “good music,” she said. braided-strap tank dresses and a black gauze poet’s blouse with a prairie skirt. GIVE ME A CALL: Waiting time at shows Field’s and Target, has reportedly done CARLA FOR CARMEN: Carla Gugino won The high points of the styling were the can be filled in with a variety of activities so well with that program that it is now rave reviews for her recent performance accessories: woven wedges, chain-strap — reading, catching up on the gossip or, snapping up its own inventory to sell on in Arthur Miller’s “After the Fall,” and snakeskin bags and vintage jewelry. in some cases, looking for business. Take the site. The company, which launched she’s itching to go back on Broadway. “I Patrick Demarchelier at Oscar de la its current partner-assisted apparel would, and I will,” she said at Carmen Kulson: Editors visiting Lisa Kulson’s showroom must Renta, who seized the downtime before channel in November 2002, began Marc Valvo’s show on Tuesday afternoon. certainly have felt the slightest sense of déjà vu. But it the start to offer his photography services stealthily deploying its Amazon-owned It was her first appearance at a fashion was just serendipitous coincidence that her mix of to Donald Trump and his fiancee, Melania inventory last month in the form of men’s week show, she noted, adding that bohemian ikat prints, fresh hand-crocheted knits and Knauss, “for something before the underwear from Intimo, and is said to fashion spectating is a lot easier than smart suits echoed Oscar de la Renta’s fabulous wedding. An invitation, perhaps?” have 35 to 40 more vendors already in walking the boards. “I don’t have to collection, showing right before hers. In her own way, the pipeline. There’s no word yet on remember any lines.” she translated a luxe look into affordable, well-made AMAZON WIDENS: Buyers from when Amazon plans to make it official. and chic clothes, knowing what her customer wants to Amazon.com were spotted shopping the STONE COLD FOX: New York may be wear for every day of the week. Come spring, Kulson ASR show in San Diego this past MUSICALLY INCLINED: Some guests were abuzz with fashion week, but the folks girls will be set for the office in crisp, tailored jackets weekend for swimwear from lines such just a little distracted by Donna Karan’s in Los Angeles are gearing up for their and skirts with just enough detail to transcend basic. as Sauvage and Op. The online shopping quasi-feminist soundtrack at her show on own major event this month: the That said, they’ll likely be a touch happier getting behemoth, which previously sold apparel Monday, with its “I am woman, hear me Emmys. Actress Sharon Stone, at the dressed on the weekend in Kulson’s peasant blouses and accessories only through partners roar” attitude, but not Bernadette Peters. Creative Arts Awards that were handed detailed with lace insets, printed with the such as the Gap, Nordstrom, Marshall “There’s a lot of great things you can out on Sunday, set style standards early aforementioned ikat, and the printed and tiered WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2004 13 WWW.WWD.COM

Kulson breezy dresses and skirts that are just the things Carlos Patrik girls hunt for as the weather turns warm. Miele Rzepski Tw inkle by Wenlan: Wenlan Chia whipped up a charming collection for spring with pretty girly looks. She focused on great combinations, whether In Focus it was of color — watermelon with cocoa, citron yellow with teal — or of pieces, such as her NEW YORK — Don’t overreach. That signature hand knits paired with silk chiffon seemed to be the mantra this week, dresses or skirts. A hand-knit camisole, for as the more successful collections example, was the perfect complement to a triple- stayed focused — and pretty — while layered silk skirt, and a bolero worked well with a those that didn’t work were silk Empire-waisted dress. Chia further reinforced overwrought and overthought. the line’s girly and sophisticated tone with Carlos Miele, for example, didn’t charming accessories such as wonderful reinvent the wheel with his lovely and adorable pins. Her only real misstep was with printed and hand-painted silk chiffon the black-and-white organic printed dresses that and satin evening dresses that were dampened the feminine mood. sexy and snug. Some of the standout looks included the golden lace Y & Kei: This week has seen an patchwork top with floaty sleeves. abundance of pretty and feminine Rachel Comey also stripped away Rachel Fusha collections, but what separated the fuss for spring, and sent out a Comey designers Hanii Y and Gene Kei’s pure, crisp lineup of summery from the pack was their artsy and cotton frocks with a sporty bent. romantic feel. In the past, they’ve There were even gymnastics been known to show overly chalk marks on the models’ layered styles peppered with arms and legs. She rarely design tricks, but they strayed from her bright white avoided those pitfalls for palette with splashes of gray spring, showing a no-fuss, prints. Everything, certainly, straightforward collection. was pretty and wearable — Soft chiffon tops and especially the mesh and dresses featured crafty cutout — but it knotted fringes that wasn’t Comey’s most swayed with each interesting effort. movement, evoking an While Patrik Twinkle ethereal quality that Rzepski may have a by Wenlan resonated throughout penchant to provoke — ▲ Donald Deal the lineup. Comely loose he showed on Sept. jackets with scalloped 11, and presented a edges were paired with collection inspired by long flowing skirts or the Baader-Meinhof gang, relaxed pants and an a Seventies German terrorist empire-waisted dress in group — his spring line was black-on-black floral rather retail-friendly. He sent out chiffon looked magical. African batik-print , full But with all of these skirts and , along with breezy delicate touches, there was cotton dresses and jersey jumpers. simply no need for the handful of Brazilian designer Geová Rodriguez, heavily beaded dresses towards for his part, opened his Geová show the end of the show. with a moment of silence to commemorate September 11th. But Nom*D: What’s a sporty girl to do after that, the mood quickly changed when spring fashion of late has as he sent out lively dresses, such as been sugar and spice and a burnt gold-copper number and the everything nice? Turn to New beautiful frocks in black and white Cat Zealander Margarita Robertson’s prints. It’s too bad that the over- Swanson Geová Nom*D. Robertson continued the accessorizing with fake flowers and androgynous noir look she started huge hats stole the attention away Fiandaca Rosita & last season, but softened it up a bit from what we actually came to see — DiSarno with relaxed silhouettes and hints of the clothes. green mixed into her standard Newcomer Cat Swanson showed palette of black, white and gray. She promise with her sleek bolero jackets sent out layered ensembles, placing and fun party frocks made from a over hoodie without patchwork of rainbow-bright chiffons, overwhelming the body, hugging the but her overuse of color sometimes contours just right (and comfortably, created dizzying looks that were ▲ Nom*D to ). These are the pieces you better suited to a Brazilian Carneval. wear season after season — the white At the other end of the spectrum, the singlet dress, the viscose — when you slow and broody soundtrack at Donald simply can’t ruffle it up anymore. Deal set an almost somber mood for his show as the models walked at an adagio pace and looked as sad as can be. This staging certainly didn’t help for the main awards ceremony, which airs Maltagliati said. “She zipped it when she Deal’s evening gowns, which were Sept. 19. To accept her prize as Best Guest needed to concentrate. She was on it, she average fare. One noteworthy dress, Actress in a Drama for her role on “The was there.” though, was the sunflower-dotted Practice,” Stone commissioned a combination A more famous face made an appearance chiffon draped halter gown. David Rodriguez also faltered a bit for spring with of flora and diamonds from Kwiat. The jewelry at the booth as well: Keith Richards, with his his Italy-inspired collection that lacked the sophistication of his muse, Sophia house’s diamond, platinum and 18-karat gold wife, Patti Hansen. Hansen entered the booth Loren. The evening coats had unflattering silhouettes, and some of the day Forties ginko leaf brooch was surrounded by already possessed of considerable knitting looks were compromised by such details as a tacky black organza bow fastened rare Brassia orchids from florist The Velvet skills. Maltagliati was mum as to what kind of from the back of the shoulders that billowed like a short train. There were Garden. Think of it as a corsage fit for the student Richards proved to be. pretty suits in tweed and leather, however. red carpet. Elsewhere, Rosita Hurtado and Carmine DiSarno debuted their line, Rosita KATIE’S CAUSE: Katie Couric, who sported a & DiSarno, with Victoria Gotti-style gowns in a palette of turquoise, yellow and KNIT WITS: After spending much of the past black knit poncho at her friend Carmen Marc fuchsia. Gotti herself, in fact, appeared on the runway in a crocheted tube week teaching celebrities, models and fashion Valvo’s show, which she got from a stranger dress, while her sons, Carmine, John and Frank, sat in the front row. A few editors to knit, Miriam Maltagliati said she’d on an airplane, said she loved wearing it. “I words of advice: Leave the ruffled tweeds where they belong — in last season’s been surprised by how fast some of them don't have to hold my stomach in,” she joked lineup. And there were plenty of stars at Fusha, where Damon Dash, Ja Rule, learned. Maltagliati, who owns Knit New York, while posing for photographers. Sporting a Casey Johnson, Janice Combs, Nicole Richie, Tyson Beckford and Vivica A. Fox a store on East 14th Street, was manning a new haircut (“My mother said it had gotten showed up. Of course, it helped that designer Marie Claudinette Jean is VIP booth backstage in the tents co-sponsored too long”), Couric said she was at the show to married to Wyclef Jean. But, unfortunately, the designer couldn’t deliver on the by W Hotels and Cotton Incorporated. support Valvo, who, as a colon cancer clothes. Marie Claudinette went with a nature theme for spring — deserts, While many of the designers had some survivor, has helped her with her colon cancer oceans, coral and floral — and took the idea too literally, showing sweeping experience with knitting needles, she said efforts. Couric, who was seated next to Angela gowns and dresses heavy with foliage-shaped appliqués. some of the models were slower to learn. But Bassett, said she only had time to attend And Alfred Fiandaca returned to New York with his Fiandaca line, she had one unexpected student: the model three shows this week — Cynthia Steffe, delivering more of his commercial eveningwear that this time had a certain Omahrya Mota. Lloyd Klein and Valvo. “It's a full time Asian whimsy complete with butterfly and hydrangea prints on chiffon. But “We got her to be quiet and actually knit,” job,” she said. altogether, the looks were essentially conventional. PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO, TALAYA CENTENO, GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE, ROBERT MITRA AND DAVID TURNER AND DAVID MITRA GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE, ROBERT GEORGE CHINSEE, GIOVANNI CENTENO, PHOTOS TALAYA JOHN AQUINO, BY 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2004 ANewGuessLaunches Lab

A computer-generated image of the Marciano store.

Continued from page one With a 900-square-foot Marciano being reflected in the company’s bottom line. shop open as of late August in , Today is the official U.S. launch of Marciano, Guess’ the French port city where the brothers first breakout division, which is opening a 2,000-square- grew up, the two stores mark the start of foot store at The Grove shopping center here. The debut what the Marcianos plan as a chain of comes after a summer advertising campaign featuring 200 more retail outlets in the U.S. in the the celebrity of the moment, Paris Hilton, who teased next three to five years. Another one or the arrival of the contemporary line from countless two doors will be added outside the magazine ads, bus shelter posters and billboards. country each year in a licensing or joint “For the first time we are completely separating venture deal with distributors. Marciano from Guess,” said Maurice Marciano, 55, in The Marciano division, more sophis- raspy, French-accented English during an exclusive ticated in design and with products WWD interview together with Paul, 52, at their corpo- about 30 percent more expensive than rate offices in Los Angeles. the core brand, arrives as Guess Inc. has While there have been times in the brand’s history emerged from more than two years in the New Marciano packaging. when the family surname was positioned alongside Guess red, which the Marcianos said didn’t accurately reflect in labels and ads, the decision to use it as a stand-alone the company’s financial position. es....We were opening stores and distribution centers. So marquee comes as the brothers and the rest of the indus- Guess last year turned around a 2002 net loss of $11.3 on paper we were losing money, but actually we were not. try pursue the spending power of contemporary fashion million to net income of $7.3 million on sales that rose It was painful for the short term, but for the long term it consumers who are propelling one of the industry’s 9.2 percent to $636.6 million. was the right thing to do and we were going for it.” fastest-growing categories. In the first quarter of 2004, Paul Marciano said he and his brother continued to L.A.-based competitors such as the company surprised Wall invest tens of millions of dollars in advertising. “Find a Bebe and BCBG have thrived Street when it reported a net year that we have not [advertised] in a magazine. Did in this market with their own profit of $800,000, or 2 cents a we ever back down? Never.” stores. The Marcianos also share, compared with a net The Marcianos declined to comment on their brand tested the market in recent loss for the same period last advertising budget for this year, although the spike in years with better items under year of $5.8 million, or 13 cents multipage inserts and street ads since February and the the special Guess Collection a share. Second-quarter net Hilton campaign indicate a healthy boost. In 2002, the label, selling $138 jeans along- profit this year was $2.1 mil- company said ad expenditures were $45 million in the side a Guess pair typically lion, or 5 cents a share, versus U.S. and another $65 million worldwide. priced at $79. a loss of $5.4 million, or 13 From bumped-up advertising to rising net profits, the Yet with the Marciano name cents, a year ago. The compa- positive swing is attributed to managing inventory levels, sharing billing with Guess in ny reported August sales for developing products and implementing cost-reduction many of the Hilton ads, some its stores posted a 5.9 percent measures such as closing unprofitable doors. In the next experts question whether the gain, less than the 7.4 percent several months, three Guess Kids stores will be converted new division can forge an iden- analysts expected. to Guess or Marciano stores and two will be shut. Guess tity separate from its sibling Standard & Poor’s, the Kids posted a loss of $1.8 million on sales of $6.1 million in line. credit-rating agency, boosted 2003. However, it will continue as a licensed concern. Four The Marcianos, however, its outlook on Guess Inc. to more Guess stores will be closed down next year. insist any overlap effect will stable from negative on Tues- The closings notwithstanding, the key to the compa- be short-lived. day based on the company’s ny’s comeback has been in controlling its destiny Guess’ past and present improved financial perform- through its signature stores. are reflected in a headquar- Paul and Maurice Marciano ance. S&P affirmed its BB- Guess Inc. rings in 72 percent of net revenues from its ters conference room. A cou- corporate rating. own retail operations. There are 186 Guess-owned stores ple of glossy, 5-foot-tall photo Credit analyst Diane Shand in the U.S. and Canada, in addition to 80 Guess-owned boards of the fall ad campaign featuring Hilton lean said in a statement that the specialty apparel retailer’s factory stores and three Guess Kids outlets. There are an- against a wall. Nearby, on a stand, is one of the 20 en- performance in the past year is sustainable. Guess has had other 24 freestanding, licensed stores in Europe, and 19 graved, century-old leather and pure silver saddles Paul a strong product repositioning and the company’s operat- on the way in the next year or so, including shops in Marciano acquired more than a decade ago when the ing margin went to 20.5 percent in the year ended June 26 Budapest and Prague, Paul Marciano said. Europe is the brand went through its American West phase via vintage from 14 percent the previous year, she said. company’s fastest-growing territory and sales are antici- Hollywood (think of the 1961 film “The Misfits” starring Guess Inc. shares fell 17 cents to close at $16.48 on pated to rise another 25 percent in the next year. Marilyn Monroe, Clark Gable and Montgomery Clift). Tuesday in New York Stock Exchange trading. The stock Retail in Asia and the Mideast, and Latin America, “We wanted the new division to have a completely is down from a 52-week high of $19.58 in April. The com- which boast 172 and 38 non-company owned stores respec- new chain of stores, to have a completely new approach, pany has been 17 percent public since 1996. tively, is restructuring. Many stores may go from licensing a different hand and sensibility to the clothes,’’ Maurice “We were never in trouble in terms of cash flow,” and franchise control to a partnership with the Marcianos. Marciano said. “It is important to separate the two.” Maurice Marciano said. “We were experiencing loss- There are 14 shops in South Africa and Australia. WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2004 15 bel and Grows AccessoriesWWW.WWD.COM and , accounts for 20 percent of retail business, Paul Marciano said. “The challenge we’ve encountered with the success of accessories is that it’s become so strong in the last two and a half years that we do not have the space we need in our [apparel] stores,” he said. The first 900-square-foot door opens Sept. 24 at The Grove. , also licensed, will continue to be sold through Guess apparel stores, where the category is bet- ter served as an impulse-sale complement to the clothes. The Marciano concept was formulated based on two decades of lessons learned, the brothers said. While Guess will continue its distribution via depart- ment stores, Marciano will be sold in its own shops as well as Guess stores worldwide. During the next year, two Marciano shops will open in Florence and Rome and another 10 are slated to debut in the U.S. “We want to keep the flexibility, to not be restrained by department store deadlines,” Paul Marciano said. “With our stores, we can do what we feel at the time based on the needs of our customers.” The spare Marciano stores contain brushed steel fix- tures and finishes, varnished concrete floors and frost- ed plexi-light casing. Eggshell blue and chocolate color the simple, scripted “M” logo and the elegant shopping bags, ribbon and boxes. Marciano doors are expected to fetch sales of about $500 per square foot, competitive with rivals such as Bebe and BCBG, according to an analyst who declined to be identified. Guess stores average about $336 per square foot. Although the company has long billed the Guess brand

AD PHOTOS BY ELLEN VON UNWERTH AD PHOTOS BY as young contemporary, it has tended to sell in the junior The first look at Marciano’s holiday 2004 advertising campaign featuring Paris Hilton. areas of department stores, while its prices have long straddled both classifications. For years, a group within the brand called Guess Collection has flirted with the The interior of the Marciano store from a computer concept. more contemporary styles and higher prices that define Marciano, with its $248 beaded party dresses and $498 rabbit fur coats. Formation of the division means that one of the only places the GC logo will remain in the product portfolio is on the successful licensed collection. “We want to make sure that the two lines do not over- lap at all, especially with the Marciano line in the Guess stores,” Paul Marciano said. “You do not want to trade off one line for the other as far as sales.” But the decision to have Hilton in print ads for Marciano and Guess runs the risk of confusing con- sumers, said Sharon Lee, co-founder of Look-Look, a multiservice agency based in Hollywood that consults on product, media and promotional development. “Whenever you do a line extension, you have the challenge of distinguishing it from the masterbrand,” she said. “Guess is a firmly established brand with this history of using up-and-coming and sometimes sensa- tional personalities as their Guess girls. It’s going to take some conditioning before consumers see it as sepa- rate from the masterbrand.” Lee noted that publicity surrounding Hilton’s hiring referred to her as the new Guess girl, joining stars such as Drew Barrymore, Anna Nicole Smith, Eva Herzigova and Claudia Schiffer. “There’s some cachet to being a Guess model,’’ Lee said. “Marciano doesn’t mean any- thing to anyone at this point.” Paul Marciano, who has been creative director for every campaign over the last 20 years, acknowledged that Hilton initially expressed interest in being the next Guess model. Hilton appears in ads for Marciano and Guess, and has been picked up for the campaign’s sec- ond round targeting the holiday season. WWD got an ex- clusive first look at the latest ads. Some of the promotion for the fall and the holidays spell out “Guess by Marciano” — a point that challenges the brothers’ insistence the two will become separate entities. The juxtaposition is only for the launch, the Marcianos said. And they noted that Hilton appears mostly as the new Marciano model. Paris or not, the consumer will ultimately determine whether Marciano succeeds without the Guess association. Twenty-two percent of the company’s revenue comes needed to be in control of our own distribution. This is “Distinguishing the merchandise by having a new from wholesaling, and the remaining 6 percent from li- to protect our future destiny.” name always helps gain consumer acceptance, but of censing, Guess executives said. The 70 to 30 ratio is the Arnold Aronson, managing director of retail strate- course, the product has to be to their liking,” said retail mirror image of the company’s retail distribution structure gies at Kurt Salmon Associates, the New York-based analyst Walter Loeb of Loeb & Associates in New York. a decade ago, when Guess was considered primarily a global management consulting firm specializing in re- “And the company will need to be consistent with its manufacturer. tail and consumer products, said: “These are people new designs and respond quickly to the marketplace. “Any transition between business models does not who love to control their own destiny and they’ve been That’s the key: excitement and newness.” exist without growing pains,” Paul Marciano said. “I very consistent in that respect. The brothers acknowledge the challenges. Still, they mean, it is not that easy to go from 80 percent wholesale “As department stores have become much more care- appear almost giddy over the new ventures and growth pos- and 20 percent retail to the complete opposite.” ful about handing out their real estate, going from land- sibilities. A scent for Guess is on their to-do list for 2005. He said the shift was “more complicated and capital- lords to merchants, manufacturers have moved into the “We have a lot of work ahead of us,” Paul Marciano intensive,” particularly in terms of human resources, direction of balancing their portfolio with their own said. “But honestly, after being at this company for 22 since it meant a major increase in the workforce — stores,” Aronson said. “Why have to fight for the front of years, we are all so pumped up about so many new 5,400 now, with 4,500 of those employees in retail, com- the floor when you can own control?” facets of the business. We know that even with what we pared with 1,200 a decade ago. “We analyzed where the As part of that strategy, the first Guess accessories know, there is no guaranteed solution. This is the fash- market was going, where this business was going,’’ Paul shops will launch this month. The category, all licensed ion business. But I can tell you that we are giving it Marciano said. “And we decided that as a brand, we as Guess-branded handbags, luggage, eyewear, jewelry everything we have.” 16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM Leiber Factory Workers Go on Strike Gottschalks Bullish at 100 By Scott Malone ingful collective bargaining session with the By Vicki M. Young Gottschalks store union. This meeting went late into the in Visalia, Calif. NEW YORK — The roughly 200 manufactur- evening on Friday, Sept. 10, and resulted in NEW YORK — As Gottschalks Inc. cele- ing workers at Judith Leiber LLC’s Man- what we thought to be significant progress.” brates its 100th anniversary this week, hattan factory went on strike Tuesday, with Representatives for both sides were un- management expects 2004 to be a ban- the employees and the company pointing able to explain the discrepancy in their ner year, with 2005 and beyond shaping fingers at each other over wage issues. statements. up to be equally impressive. The striking employees and officials of A spokesman for Local 342 said the firm The Fresno, Calif.-based retailer Local 342 of the United Food & Com- had asked workers to agree to lower wages, said it will achieve stronger financial mercial Workers Union that represents a claim also voiced by several of the striking results by continuing to leverage im- them, claimed the workers, most of provements made over the past three firm had asked work- whom declined to be years, as well as by taking on new ini- ers to accept wage identified. tiatives such as growing its private cuts. The company A spokeswoman label program. denied that charge, for Judith Leiber said Gottschalks is celebrating its 100th saying it had offered the firm stood by its birthday on Friday by ringing the clos- “fair wage increases.” statement, adding, “It ing bell at the New York Stock Neither side offered would be inappropri- Exchange. Chairman Joseph Levy and any actual numbers. ate for us to comment chief executive officer Jim Famalette The workers further. Negotiations will do the honors. formed a picket line in are ongoing.” In a phone interview earlier this the street in front of Mohammed Alla- week, Famalette said he was pleased the firm’s factory and din, who said he’d with the financial improvements made headquarters building worked in manufac- by the company. “This is a very exciting on reducing expenses. Their goal is to at 20 West 33rd Street, turing at the time for Gottschalks,” he said. “We are have a selling, general and administra- and picketers and firm for about 20 commemorating our 100 years of opera- tive expense ratio in the range of 30 union officials vowed years, said the wages tion....We foresee a successful 2004, with percent of sales. The company is also to remain there until a proposed weren’t ac- significant growth in earnings over aiming to grow its private label product PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO new contract was Judith Leiber workers picket on Tuesday. ceptable for the intri- 2003’s earnings of 15 cents a share. Our from 12 percent of sales now to about reached. The union’s cate detail work that guidance for 2004 is between 41 cents 15 percent of sales in three years. four-year contract with the firm expired goes into making the firm’s jeweled purs- and 43 cents a share, almost tripling our “What has been a huge contributor is April 24. es. Pointing to many of the women walking result last year.” our dynamic replenishment system, as “The company made a final proposal the picket line with him, he said, “They The company also expects a 50 per- well as better inventory management, and the members voted not to accept it, work here three months and then they cent gain in EPS for 2005, climbing to both of which allow our merchandise to and they voted to strike,” said Joe Lopez, a need .” the 60-cent range, as well as an addi- turn quickly,” Famalette said. negotiator with Local 342 of the UFCWU. The 40-year-old firm is believed to have tional 50 percent increase in 2006, In addition to more upscale and Picketers handed out flyers to passers- about $30 million in annual sales. bringing the EPS for that year up to 90 hipper brands such as O’Neill, Rusty, by charging that “the company is asking for Apparel manufacturing has been on the cents. According to the ceo, the compa- Ecko Red, JLo and Baby Phat, the com- wage concessions for us.” decline in New York City for decades. As of ny also expects “same-store sales gains pany said it will also launch a 100,000- In a statement, the firm said it “has pro- July, the industry employed about 29,500 over the next couple of years in the 2 square-foot lifestyle concept store in posed fair wage increases for its employees workers, a 12.5 percent decline from a year to 3 percent range.” Fresno in mid-2005, which will serve and has not requested any wage conces- earlier, according to data from the New The 73-unit chain tripled its earn- as both flagship and prototype for fu- sions.” It added it “has had only one mean- York State Labor Department. ings in the past 12 months by focusing ture store expansion. Nouveau Collective show dates

The Park Central New York Hotel • 870 Seventh Avenue at 56th Street • New York City

Nouveau Collective – A Women’s Ready-to-Wear Fashion Trade Show, centrally located in New York City.

Discover new designers and count on established

Show dates are highlighted. resources…featuring distinct All dates subject to change. categories of Women’s Sunday, September 26 thru Fashion. Wednesday, September 29 September Buyer’s Rate $159.00 • Contemporary call: 800.346.1359 • Evening Late Night Shopping • Designer/Young Design Tuesday, September 28, 9am - 9pm • Casual Lifestyle Exhibitor Locations • Spa/Active Wear Lobby Gallery • Career Mezzanine (2nd floor) • Accessories Show Floors 16 thru 23 Ballroom (one level below lobby) Complimentary Shuttle Bus to Show Piers To exhibit please contact: Nouveau Collective tel/914.736.0030 fax/914.736.0333 • www.nouveaucollectivetradeshows.com WWW.WWD.COM Chanel’s Chiquet on Hand at Bloomingdale’s NEW YORK — Chanel Inc. un- occupies the same footprint as veiled a new counter design at its predecessor, but the selling Bloomingdale’s Tuesday morn- square footage has been in- ing and showed off its new pres- creased by 25 percent with the ident-elect, Maureen Chiquet, in elimination of an old staircase the process. to Chanel’s upstairs balcony, Chiquet will not officially which is due to open in a month begin her duties as president JOHN CALABRESE PHOTO BY as a site for makeup and facial and chief operating officer of treatments by appointment. Chanel Inc. until Oct. 1, but she The counter area covers took the opportunity to make her 645.8 square feet. The balcony first American in-store appear- adds another 322.9 square feet. ance during a ribbon-cutting cer- Maureen It is Chanel’s biggest and most emony at Bloomingdale’s 59th updated in-store counter in the Chiquet Street flagship. Chiquet will suc- U.S. It is also the first American ceed Arie Kopelman, who is re- installation to bear an image tiring but will continue as vice design, display and advertising. from Chanel’s new Nicole Kid- chairman of the board, and has The New York faction was head- man ad campaign. The counter been in training at Chanel’s ed by Jean Hoehn Zimmerman, is a sister to the one opened ear- Paris headquarters for a year. executive vice president of sales lier this year in London’s Har- After hearing Bloomingdale’s and marketing. vey Nichols. chairman and chief executive of- Although Chiquet is known as The Bloomingdale’s counter ficer Michael Gould praise the a fashion veteran with a 14-year was inaugurated Tuesday but it design as Chanel’s finest effort in tenure at Gap Inc., she began has been in operation for a the U.S. and something that will her career in the French cosmet- week. As always, Chanel execu- give the brand a fresh start, ics industry. Starting in 1985, she tives declined to discuss results, Chiquet responded by describing worked for three years as a but industry sources indicate the installation as “a tribute to brand manager in the hair care the new counter has been churn- teamwork.” She was referring to division of French giant L’Oréal. ing out daily increases of 15 per- Chanel’s creative squads in Paris In fact, she recalled working for cent. Those sources estimate the and New York plus the Bloom- Jean Paul Agon, who now is new unit could produce retail ingdale’s team. A delegation of president and ceo of L’Oréal’s sales of more than $2 million for French executives was led by U.S. subsidiary. the first 12 months, far outstrip- Francis Vandenbussche, who is The redone counter is on ping last year’s $1.6 million. responsible for global counter Bloomingdale’s main floor and — Pete Born Beauty’s Web Revitalization NEW YORK — With two new dot- com endeavors just under way — and multiple efforts within the last year — beauty’s pres- ence on the Web is gradually making a comeback from its late Nineties boom and bust. The Body Shop, for one, went live Tuesday with its first e-com- merce site, a concept called the Lunch Lounge. It’s a link on the- bodyshop.com that directs visi- tors to an online boutique only open from noon to 5 p.m. EDT. It’s designed to catch browsers on their lunch breaks. A Body Shop survey involving 1,509 working women aged 18 to 54 found that 54 percent choose to “relax on the Internet every day as a means to escape from their daily pressures while still at their desks.” The Body Shop’s Lunch Lounge page. ing in their sites and we are see- goods and travel. The firm’s gross BEAUTY BEAT ing strong interest in syndication revenues for the second quarter, to retailer sites. which ended June 30, were The site features lunchtime- “Some of their sites are truly $733,000, a 320 percent leap over only “beauty deals,” The Body outstanding in terms of the type the same period last year. Net Shop noted, as well as “pamper- of user experience they create,” profits for the quarter were ing tips” and even advice on civil Hingorani remarked. “They $121,000, up year-over-year by involvement. The Body Shop also know their customer. And when 330 percent for the Vancouver- is planning to feature top product you look at the way they’ll take based firm. picks by celebrity makeup artist the consumer through a brand — Speaking of Canada, sephora- Chase Aston, who is The Body in terms of product recommenda- .com opened e-commerce func- Shop’s international beauty con- tions and beauty tips — some of tions to its customers north of the sultant. Of The Body Shop’s 2,007 them make you feel like there’s a border through a deal with stores in 50 countries, there are beauty adviser there with you as Canada Post last fall. Also within 300 in the U.S. The retailer tal- you’re going through the site.” the last year, Kenzo launched a lied 700 million pounds, or $1.26 While The Body Shop gets its beauty e-commerce site, ken- billion at current exchange, in re- site up and running, another, zousa.com. Furthermore, beauty tail sales for the 2004 fiscal year called Perfume.com, announced highlighted its organic side last ended February, a flat change last week it is expanding. The year when Saffronrouge.com, re- over the prior year. Turnover was year-old site, which is owned by portedly the first Web site dedi- 381.1 million pounds, or $684.24 Canada-based Communicate.com, cated to selling organic and million, up 1 percent. has expanded its category offering biodynamic beauty items, “Our existing beauty cus- and has begun carrying branded pumped up its marketing and tomers have doubled the num- skin care from the likes of Lauder, awareness efforts. ber of sites they syndicate to in Lancôme, Guerlain and Shiseido, And, the e-commerce site the last 12 months,” said Leslie as well as hair care brands such launched in 2001 by beauty be- Hingorani, strategic account as Aveda, Paul Mitchell, American hemoths Estée Lauder, Chanel manager for Web Collage, a Web Crew and Joico. and Clarins — aka gloss.com — services provider that has Perfume.com’s sales for the notwithstanding, there are helped brands such as Chanel, month of August, which do not in- smaller players, namely Beauty- Estée Lauder, Clinique and MAC clude the new beauty categories, collection.com, Bglowing.com, Cosmetics customize their pres- totaled $117,000, a 143 percent in- Beautyexclusive.com and ence on such sites as macys.com crease over the same month last Beautyhabit.com, that occupy a and sephora.com. “In general, year. Communicate.com owns niche position in the beauty dot- we are noticing that more and about 25 dot-com domains in var- com landscape. more beauty vendors are invest- ious sectors, including sporting — Matthew W. Evans 18 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2004

In the Mainstream Store Exclusives: Raising the Cost

HFederated Hilfiger launchedDepartment Brands on display during exStoresclusively is seen at Federated as ahead fashion week, including Departmentof the curve Storeswhen it this year. Dana Buchman and DKNY, comes to far right, find themselves differentiation. For fighting for market share instance, H Hilfiger in a retail environment launched exclusively at that demands various the firm's stores, such looks for different stores. as Macy’s, this year. PHOTOS BY JOHN AQUINO AND GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTOS BY

By Evan Clark Azria Group. The retailer posted positive comparable-store sales for 10 of the last 12 months. Federated, which is recognized as a private label leader with its I.N.C. brand NEW YORK — With designers sending the last of the American collections down the and has an exclusive on H Hilfiger this year, has posted positive comps during nine of runway today, retailers in the front row will be plotting how to use the new styles to the last 12 months. differentiate their stores from their competition, who most likely will be sitting just a May Department Stores Co. and Kohl’s Corp., both of which have taken steps toward few seats away. more differentiated product assortments, but are generally seen as lagging their competi- That sort of fashion individualism from retailers is forcing vendors — from corpo- tion in the area, had negative comps for seven and eight of the last 12 months, respectively. rate bigwigs in corner Seventh Avenue offices to fledgling downtown designers — to The often ultra-fashionable set populating the tents might tend to discount the im- produce larger collections, launch additional lines, absorb greater expenses and portance of J.C. Penney or Kohl’s, but many of the pressures squeezing the lower-priced often contend with narrower distribution. stores are being felt throughout the industry, including at stores such as Neiman Stephen Ruzow of Kellwood Co. described it as a “tidal wave,” and George Jones of Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue, which are also looking to differentiate their product as- Saks Inc. said, “I absolutely see it continuing.” sortment. Besides, as Karl Lagerfeld has shown at H&M and Isaac Mizrahi at Target, Designers and brands have always sought a distinct look, but department stores in the barriers between the various price points are at the very least bending significantly. the last decade or so became homogenous as larger firms played it safe to avoid bot- The migration to more differentiated product and the accompanying financial de- tom-line stumbles. Now stores throughout the fashion spectrum are breaking their mands might also make survival more difficult for the hopeful young designers just cookie-cutter molds in hopes of improving full-price sales and increasingly turning to being introduced to the fashion world at the tents and various other venues around major vendors, such as Kellwood, Jones Apparel Group and Liz Claiborne Inc., for ex- the city. The road they have to travel to stardom might be rockier than the one trav- clusives and their own versions of major lines. Additional brands, marketing and de- eled by their forerunners, many of whom now preside over expensive and lavish sign staff all spell increased expenses for vendors. shows that are out of the reach of newcomers. “Everyone’s talking about it because they have seen the success of J.C. Penney’s “It [product differentiation] limits the entry of new designers and new companies and Federated [Department Stores],” said Smith Barney equity analyst Deborah into the market,” said Andrew Jassin, managing director of the fashion consultancy Weinswig. “It’s the hot topic in the department store space these days.” Jassin-O’Rourke Group. Penney’s has stepped up its merchandise assortment through exclusive distribu- More than just raising the barrier to entry, the march toward diverse assortments has tion agreements with brands such as Bisou Bisou, as well as Parallel with BCBG Max forced big changes in some of the industry’s most established firms, such as Liz Claiborne, WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2004 19 WWW.WWD.COM tofDoingBusiness

which has proven itself to be nimble when it comes to adjusting to the shifting landscape. The Liz Claiborne collection for spring 2004 was consolidated from four subbrands into one master label. Much of the design staff from the eliminated subbrands was set to work on differ- ent takes on the better-priced line for specific retailers. At the same time, Claiborne was bol- stering its better assortment, launching its Intuitions collection exclusively at Dillard’s. Claiborne’s other exclusive deals include Crazy Horse for J.C. Penney, First Issue and the new Curve for Sears, as well as Axcess and Villager, which are sold only in Kohl’s and Mervyn’s. As these businesses have ramped up in recent years, their growth has helped offset declines else- where in the portfolio. However, the core Liz business generally has lower selling, general and administrative expens- es than the company at large, noted the firm in its annual report. “Given that fixed costs represent a large percentage of this business’s SG&A expenditures, as the sales of this business have de- clined, its SG&A rate has increased. Moreover, as this business represents a lower proportion of overall company sales, the company’s overall SG&A rate increases.” [Product differentiation] limits the entry of new designers“ and new companies into the market. — Andrew Jassin, Jassin-O’Rourke” Group Claiborne’s SG&A rose 16.1 percent to $1.42 billion last year, due to the acquisitions of Juicy Couture and Enyce, start-up costs to bring Mexx to the U.S. and Sigrid Olsen to specialty retailing, and overall costs related to growth. “At the end of the day, it costs a lot more to do business today because the stores want exclusive product,” said Ruzow, who is president of women’s wear at Kellwood, overseeing brands such as Sag Harbor and the licensed O Oscar. “It’s going to be much more demanding on the manufacturer to constantly come up with new labels and new product offerings.” Kellwood’s SG&A rose 10.2 percent last year to $357.6 million, primarily due to the Briggs and Gerber acquisitions, which added $18.6 million, and spending on new brands and marketing initia- tives of $17.9 million. The firm has been gearing up several new licensed businesses, including XOXO junior sports- wear, Calvin Klein and Izod sportswear from Phillips-Van Heusen Corp., Docker’s women’s tops from Levi Strauss & Co., O Oscar from Oscar de la Renta and Liz Claiborne suits and dresses. Likewise, Lynne Coté, group chief executive officer of women’s moderate sportswear at Jones Apparel Group, noted: “We’re having to spend our resources to support the design needs of 12 brands instead of four brands because everyone wants their own. I’m now making 2,000 samples a month just to get to market, where I used to make 150.” Jones relaunched A|Line, a secondary Anne Klein label it ac- quired along with Kasper A.S.L., exclusively into 450 Sears stores for fall and Kellwood produces the Lucy Pereda collection for the retail- er. Should those lines remain exclusive to Sears, their distribution will be restrained to the retailers 870 full-line stores. As retailers rely more and more on exclusives from large vendors, strengthening the “one-stop shopping” stance taken by most of the big firms, there are fewer open-to-buy dollars — the amount store buyers can spend without special approval — for the open marketplace. Smaller vendors, which don’t have the scale necessary to produce numerous lines, often have to carefully tweak one line for different customers to keep growth up. “It’s become very demanding,” said Robert Rosen, ceo of La Rose Inc., which produces the Bob Mackie Studio sportswear line. Launched in plus sizes last year, the line is expanding into miss- es’ and petite sizes for spring and is slated to bring in wholesale vol- ume of $20 million to $25 million next year. To offer the necessary variety, the firm produces more than 500 pieces for the line and is willing to give some of those looks exclu- sively to certain retailers. The brightly colored collection will be ex- pressed differently in the stores through various jacket and pants silhouettes, prints and layering pieces. At the Saks department store group, which includes chains such as Proffitt’s and McRae’s, differentiated products make up about 35 percent of the division’s $3.62 billion in annual sales. That compares with under 20 percent three years ago, when George Jones took to the helm as president and ceo of the division. The division regis- tered comp increases during 11 months of the last 12. “It’s absolutely vital for us to differentiate and be increasingly dif- ferentiated,” Jones said. Specialized products from branded vendors have increased to al- most 20 percent of the Saks department store group’s business, or $724 million, up from under 9 percent three years ago. The specifics might differ, but the trend is being repeated among the major retailers. “Everybody recognizes the need to be different,” said Jones, who stressed that vendor brands are still an important part of the mix. Also playing into the mix is the pressure exerted on the vendors by the stores’ private label programs, which have grown in impor- tance and are a clear statement from retailers that they want differ- entiation and are willing to do it themselves. “The vendors have wanted to find a way to break out some of their own brands or to realign them,” said David Griffith, equity ana- lyst for Tradition Asiel Securities. “You’ll always have a few [big brands], but I do think we’re to the point where both the vendors and retailers realize that if you have a brand in 2,000 doors, it’s just not that special anymore.” Susan Ng, equity analyst for Sidoti & Co., agreed that the lines coming out will probably end up being smaller than their forebears. Ng said, “It probably would make [the market] a little bit more frag- mented in the sense that there are many more brands that I would expect to come out.” 20 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM

Looks from Strenesse’s spring 2005 collection.

Strenesse Sets Sights on U.S. Growth

By Melissa Drier shop-in-shops opened in Kiev, Moscow, St. Petersburg and Warsaw. “And the Middle East is very strong,” Kappler said. “Both markets [Eastern Europe BERLIN — Strenesse Gabriele Strehle is riding a wave of growth in the American and the Mideast] are becoming more refined, which makes it a great time for market. Strenesse.” For the spring 2005 season, the German contemporary fashion house expects to ex- Meanwhile, in Western Europe, it is strengthening its profile in . “We’re at pand its U.S. retail distribution to 120 doors from 84. “We started showing the spring- Colette, we’re opening our first shop-in-shop in Galeries Lafayette and, in Milan, summer collection in August, and we can see that there’s a big boom just around the we’re in Corso Como. A lot is changing for us. We’re in a thunderstorm that’s being corner,” commented Peter Kappler, director of marketing and international sales. pushed on us from above,” Kappler said. “And we can deliver.” How to explain this change of weather? Designed by the notoriously shy designer Strenesse has not always been able to gracefully meet the demands of the Gabriele Strehle, Strenesse Gabriele Strehle is a hip yet realistic collection one insid- American market, acknowledged both Kappler and Gerd Strehle, the company’s chief er described as “trim and slim fashion for a downtown girl who works uptown.” executive. After a false start in the Eighties, the Nordlingen, Germany-based company “The product is first of all not mainstream,” Kappler said. “And we’re not a has been present in the American market via agents since 1994, when the collection megabrand. Women seem to be searching for something else today, something more of contemporary women’s designer sportswear was gently pushed into the limelight unique. And now we’re getting the payoff, because we’re seen as a modern alternative.” by Bergdorf Goodman. On the runway, Strenesse Gabriele Strehle has a decidedly waif-like appeal, a size “We had very good sell-through, but we didn’t really 2 aesthetic that rankled some midsized industry pro- observe the market rules regarding service and deliv- Peter Gerd fessionals when it was previewed at CPD in ery rhythms. In the end, we weren’t successful because Kappler Strehle Düsseldorf in August. “When you do a show today of we had no organization [in the U.S.],” Strehle said. fashion for the young-thinking woman, the image is That’s changed. In 2000, the firm set up an string-bean thin,” Gerd Strehle remarked at the time. American subsidiary, Strenesse USA, in New York. “That’s the ideal, whether you find it good or not. The “We’re now working like Americans in the U.S. and top models starve themselves. have people that understand the rules when it comes “But our size 4 is the same as it was 10 years ago, to infrastructure and deliveries,” Kappler commented. and 38 or 8 remains the key size. The cut looks slim “American retailers want earlier and more frequent and body-conscious, and our woman, no matter what deliveries. They need a permanent flow of merchan- size, wants to feel her clothing on her body. That’s dise. Germany doesn’t have this rhythm, but because of what makes Strenesse different,” he stated. American demands, we’ve pushed up our timing.” Kappler added, “We’re not a skinny girl line. But Strenesse has built its American business on a our woman, regardless of where she is in the world, is strong specialty store base, including Bergdorf body-conscious.” Goodman; A’maree’s in Newport Beach, Calif.; At home in Germany, where the economic and re- People’s in Atlanta, Ga., Susan in San Francisco and tail climate remains cloudy at best, Strenesse Burlingame, Calif.; Tootsie’s in Houston, and Joseph’s in Memphis. New to the lineup Gabriele Strehle also is seeing strong demand. “At the moment, things are incredible. for spring are Stanley Korshak in Dallas; Auer’s in Denver; Capital in Charlotte, N.C.; Sell-through has been extremely good for the last half year, and suddenly, we’re Daniels in Grand Rapids, Mich.; David Lawrence in Seattle, and the national luxury back,” Gerd Strehle reported. “It’s the consumer who’s taking things into her own magazine-catalogue-Web site Vivre.com. hands. She’s tired of all the negative news in the newspapers or in politics and wants America currently ranks fourth among Strenesse’s top markets after Germany (to- to make her life positive. She wants to have a bit of fun again.” gether with Switzerland and Austria), Japan and Italy. “But the biggest potential for He said the price-cutting tactics that have affected all levels of the German market the future is the U.S.,” Kappler said. Global sales to around 900 wholesale accounts in are now “getting nowhere. The consumer is recognizing that, although she has a lot in 36 countries have been placed at 225 million euros, or $275.6 million at current ex- her wardrobe, having bought four or five items for the price of one, she has nothing change rates, at retail, excluding licensing revenue. Sales for the current fiscal year, she can take pleasure in. And she wants that pleasure again.” which ends May 31, 2005, are expected to grow between 5 and 10 percent. Strehle also regards the rise of the vertical chains in Germany with equanimity. But the U.S. isn’t the only market where Strenesse is growing. The company is cur- “The Spanish are arriving in torrents, but they’re bringing youth face-to-face with rently preparing to open 20 shops in China in the next two years with a local partner, fashion that they can buy. Shopping is becoming a leisure activity, a hobby and these with the first two slated to bow in Beijing and Shanghai in January and February. are our future customers. That’s the positive side,” he said, “when we make sure Strenesse also is expanding strongly in eastern Europe and, in 2003, new stores and we’re there for them and look young enough.” WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2004 21 WWW.WWD.COM

million pounds, or $28.5 million, from 15.3 million pounds, or $24.7 million, while wholesale volume fell 8.6 percent to 8.5 million pounds, or $15.5 million, from 9.3 French Connection Net Gains 12.9% million pounds, or $16 million. Meanwhile, licensing income soared 42.8 percent to 2 LONDON — Profits at French Connection climbed 12.9 exchange rate for the corresponding periods. million pounds, or $3.7 million, from 1.4 million pounds, percent in the first half, thanks to healthier margins, a Marks said the drop off in retail sales was due to a or $2.3 million, reflecting growth in all the existing li- vigorous wholesale business in the U.K. and a hefty in- tough comparison with strong sales volumes in 2003 and censes and the first major contribution from the world- crease in licensing income, the company said Tuesday. more difficult market conditions this year. wide fragrance license. “We’ve come in above expectations, and we have bet- “It’s a difficult environment in the U.K. right now. As reported, the FCUK fragrance is made by Zirh ter margins than last year — we’re just managing the Supermarkets have gone into the clothing business, and Skin Nutrition, a division of Shiseido. business better,” said Stephen Marks, chairman and have started a whole new price structure. As a result, a Marks said the company had started the second half chief executive of French Connection. lot of High Street retailers are reducing their prices. with good order books in the wholesale business. He plans First-half profits climbed to 10.5 million pounds, or But we’re selling clothes — not prices — and we’re to open six new stores in the U.K. and Continental Europe, $19.2 million, from 9.3 million pounds, or $15 million in sticking with our program,” he told WWD in an inter- in cities including Stockholm, Dublin and Newcastle. the same period last year. Turnover in the period ending view Tuesday. As reported, the firm has just opened its first Continen- July 31 rose 5.1 percent to 128.2 million pounds, or $234.2 The group’s margins improved thanks to the weaker tal showroom in Milan to power growth in the region. million, from 122 million pounds, or $196.8 million, U.S. dollar, which slashed the cost of product coming Meanwhile, Marks stressed that while the company’s thanks largely to the U.K. and European wholesale busi- from Hong Kong. There was also less discounting in latest fall ad campaign may be missing the infamous ness. Sales rose 13.2 percent to 65.2 million pounds, or North America and a healthy mix of increased sales and FCUK letters, the logo is still essential to the brand. $119.1 million, from 57.6 million pounds, or $92.9 million. fixed costs in the wholesale business. “We’re not abandoning it. FCUK continues to be an However, sales in the U.K. and European retail busi- Sales in North America rose 14 percent in dollar important part of our branding and we will carry on ness fell 4.1 percent to 51.2 million pounds, or $93.5 mil- terms, but those gains all but vanished when converted using it on our products, in our stores and in our adver- lion, from 53.4 million pounds, or $96.1 million. All fig- into pounds due to the weak dollar. tising,” he said. ures have been converted from pounds at the average Retail sales in North America rose 2 percent to 15.6 — Samantha Conti Boss, Valentino Help Marzotto To Triple Profit MILAN — A strong perform- ance of the Hugo Boss brand Women’s Career and Casual Sportswear and the return to profit at Valentino and the textile divi- for Urban Living sion helped Marzotto more than triple its net profits to 29 million euros, or $34.8 mil- lion, in the first half of 2004. This compares with net profits of 8 million euros, or $9.6 million, in the same peri- od last year. Dollar figures have been converted from the euro at current exchange rates. In the first half, Marzotto said its operating profits grew 53.2 percent to 69 million euros, or $82.8 million, from 45 million euros, or $54 million, in the same period last year. Marzotto’s sales rose about 1 percent to 876 million euros, or $1.05 billion, from 868 million euros, or $1.04 billion, last year. At constant exchange rates, Marzotto’s total sales grew 9 percent. Sales at the Hugo Boss and Valentino brands grew 11 per- cent and 19 percent, respec- tively, at constant exchange rates. In the first half, Hugo Boss and Valentino hit sales of 554 million euros, or $664.8 million, and 81 million euros, or $97.2 million, respectively. Sales outside Italy account- ed for 84 percent of the total. In a statement, Marzotto said the months of July and August confirmed a positive sales trend. Based on “the strength- ening of its competitive posi- tion” in growing markets and the orders placed for the spring-summer 2005 collec- tions, for the second part of the year, Marzotto said it ex- pected sales to grow “in line with the first semester and a more than proportional in- crease in operating and net profits.” Marzotto noted that CORPORATE NEW YORK ATLANTA MID WEST orders for the upcoming HEADQUARTERS: TED DZIENA JEFFREY SCHECHTER THOMAS J. SLADKY spring-summer collection COLLECTION CONRAD C INC. 485 7th Avenue, #406 Tel: 404.577.4717 Tel: 563.556.0864 grew 8 percent for Hugo Boss 9320 St. Laurent Blvd., #200 New York, NY 10018 Cell: 312.543.9486 and 16 percent for Valentino. Montreal, QC Tel: 212.967.8181 MID ATLANTIC REGION In the period ended June H2N 1N7 Canada BUTLER COHEN ASSOCIATES 30, Marzotto reduced its debt Tel: 514.385.9599 DALLAS Tel: 856.429.2502 to 627 million euros, or $752.4 (U.S.A.) 1.800.561.4416 RAY RAK Cell: 856.287.4447 million, from 670 million www.conradc.com Tel: 214.749.4810 euros, or $804 million, on June Cell: 214.914.1111 30 last year. — Luisa Zargani 22 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2004 WWW.WWD.COM WWD West Active Fashion Gets Serious at ASR By Nola Sarkisian-Miller both in Northern California, said she made her first trip to ASR in search of “a good, solid young swim line.” The bold print offerings at L Space made an impression, par- SAN DIEGO — The hint of rear cleavage on Roxy’s spring catalogue and Ezekiel’s sec- ticularly the Kelly green hues and the short cover-up skirts. “Girls want selection,’’ ond-season double-E printed ribbed tank, a nod to Chanel’s much-imitated logo, may she said. “They want to be able to take 10 suits into the dressing room and buy three.” have best summed up the three-day ASR trade show: Brands that cater to the matur- Still, not all retailers embraced the fashion wave. ing surfer girl can’t afford to ignore her fashionista alter ego. Kathy Miller, owner and buyer of the Sun Shops in Santa Cruz, Calif., said that her Many lines were taking more fashion risks and departing from traditional logo styles. buyers tend to be at least a season or two behind the trends. “We’re much more resort Tunics and multifunctional pieces were top sellers at the Roxy booth. A was seen than this show, but this show sets the trends for juniors’ resorts,” she said. on the Split runway and Ezekiel touted its overall mini in railroad-worker denim. While Miller said that many of the pattern styles, such as polkadots, plaids, checks Brands such as David & Goliath, Roxy and DC Shoes raised the bar on their cuffed and bold graphics would not work for her customers, there were other ways she denim jeans and , pushing the retail price to $68 to $88 with the use of more hoped to keep the looks in her stores fresh. expensive washes, baking treatments, wrinkling effects and undone hems. “We’ll go for all the colors, but not the patterns,” she said. “Junior is definitely regrouping,” said Diane Biggs, owner of the 15-store chain Leslie Freeman, buyer for West 49, a 58-store chain of skateboard shops in Canada, Diane’s Swimwear, based in Torrance, Calif. “There’s an extra ruffle here, more de- said the show provided more inspiration than inventory. tail there and a lot of glitz. It’s about fun and stylish clothing.” “We’re from Canada…so we’re a bit behind,” she said, noting the company was And it’s paying off, she said. Her sales are up 20 percent compared with last year coming off a good year. and she opened a 1,500-square-foot store in Manhattan Beach, Calif., two months ago That was good news for manufacturers, many of whom believe the junior business that will carry designer labels mixed in with surf and sportswear. is still in growth mode. Men’s brand, like Fox, are still eyeing the hot juniors market. At the same time, companies that looked nothing like traditional surf brands, with Fox is making a push in its second season with juniors. nary a hibiscus flower in sight, were testing the waters at the Sales are up 40 percent year-to-date compared with 2003 at show that ended last Sunday. O’Neill Clothing, said Kelly Gibson, president of the line, which Amerikan Project, a four-year-old line out of San Clemente, WHAT’S HOT holds the U.S. distribution license from the O’Neill family in Calif., made a splash with its rebellious looks, such as paint- Santa Cruz, Calif. splattered Ts and abraded denim. The Closet from Huntington Apparel “We’re still dominated by men’s brands, so there’s plenty of Beach, Calif., and the Active Ride Shop chain picked up the ■ Shrunken blazers market share to capture,” he said. line, designer Eric Crane said. ■ In the big picture, however, some show veterans groused “There’s the surf, skate, lifestyle crossover thing happening,” Tunics that the industry was far removed from its glory days. he said. “Key stores want to carry both the contemporary lines ■ Cuffed jeans “Look across the convention center and the booths used to like Seven jeans and surf lines such as Volcom.” ■ Longer, swingy skirts go on and on, maybe it was 40 percent bigger,” said Frank The show got a boost from the arrival of foreign lines, intent on Sinatra, president of directional brand Stüssy, coming into its ■ tapping into the burgeoning U.S. market. The Australian brand Halter and shirtdresses 25th year. “Where are the new players? Where is the hot new Insight, known for its rocker sensibility with its drapy indie brand?” and skinny jeans, attended ASR to find American distributors Swim Ezekiel owner Steve Kurtzman echoed the sentiment, citing after its strong debut at ASR Europe in July. Plain Jane Couture ■ the spate of acquisition deals this year. Quiksilver, owner of from Canada and We from Sweden also piqued retailer interest. Skirted bottoms, or “cheeky peekers” Roxy, picked up DC Shoes, VF Corp. scooped up Vans and the Designed by a group of four Swedish designers, We features ■ Ruffles, sequins bought Ocean Pacific Apparel Corp. “It’s hard an array of products from and Ts to denim in ■ All shades of green, from khaki to find a player here who isn’t public or part of a public compa- vivid color combinations and patterns, setting the brand apart to Kelly ny or financed by a major player,” he said. “In the future, that from its competitors. Previously carried only in Europe and can stifle creativity.” Japan, the four-year-old line will premiere in 10 stores in the ■ Wider stripes, Sixties floral prints But show director Kevin Flanagan said the event is on the U.S., including Fred Segal. We opened its first U.S. store on rise. The number of exhibitors grew 10 percent to 400, repre- Monday on Robertson Boulevard in Los Angeles. senting 500 brands. He said he anticipated the show would at- “It’s life after skateboarding,” said Greger Hagelin, chief executive officer of the tract an average of 6,000 buyers. Hurricanes prevented some Florida buyers from at- brand. “There’s a great gap [in clothes] for boarders who’ve grown up.” tending, including those for the influential store Ron Jon Surf Shop. Even swimwear grew more sophisticated, with sequins, laser cutouts and geomet- “I don’t know if the show will as big as it was in its golden years, but it can be more ric hardware accenting fashion . Sports suits, such as Wetskins by Rip Curl, got influential,” Flanagan said. “It’s about quality, not quantity.” punched up with new color combinations. Ashley Smith of Rincon Designs in Blocks away from ASR, the Agenda trade show got its own groove on in a ware- Carpenteria, Calif., shopped for wearable and trendy designs, which she found at house in the Gaslamp District, where RVCA, Hussy Jr. and Arkive were among the 38 O’Neill Clothing in the form of crisscross, reversible halters “that stay on when you smaller brands on display. Show organizer Aaron Levant said retailers such as surf.” Other trends she planned to buy were bandeaux (replacing the halter as the Nordstrom, Tilly’s and Beams from Japan had visited. newest top silhouette) and Kelly green. “I’m also looking for turquoise and tops, Cinched- dresses and shrunken argyle vests were key looks at the RVCA booth. both of which we get a lot of requests for, but I’m not finding as much of,” she said. Hussy Jr. showcased T-shirts imprinted with black-and-white images of Steve McQueen Peter Low of Exposure in Vancouver, British Columbia, was looking to expand his and Brigitte Bardot. The show’s relaxed atmosphere meant business wasn’t always store’s high-end offerings, which he found at Vitamin A and Vix. Accents such as big gold done as usual. Chef and caterer Lo Huynh said she was helping Hussy Jr. owner Forest rings and paisley prints caught his eye, as did Sixties-style floral prints at Billabong. Wise as a sales rep. “I love fashion and he couldn’t make it, so we both benefit.” Jennifer Zweig, a buyer for the Destination 1440 chain and Marin Surf and Sport, — With contributions from Marcy Medina and Michelle Dalton Tyree

A shrunken jacket Ezekiel’s from Roxy. overall mini.

A swim look A gray shirtdress from O’Neill from Fox. A drapy look from Insight. Clothing. PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO PHOTOS BY PHOTOS BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO PHOTOS BY WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2004 23 WWW.WWD.COM Anthropologie Going to the Dogs By Vicki M. Young dent of Hilldun Corp., a factoring firm. His or neck and upper body warmers that contacts helped her gain her first retail ac- could be pulled over the head as a . NEW YORK — Anthropologie has a new count at Anthropologie, and his sourcing “Snoods are used by show dogs to vendor: Sons & Daughters of Bitches. connections were responsible for the man- keep their muzzles clean and ears pro- SDOB is helping the division of Urban ufacture of the in China. tected,” Wassner said. Outfitters expand its line of merchandise While the Anthropologie scarves are While much of the SDOB product are for pooches to include scarves. geared for smaller pooches, SDOB also in wool, some are in cashmere, fake fur The 58-unit chain already sells a fair has creations targeting the larger dog. and even mink. isle knit sweater, a rattan-and-pine dog- A cashmere sweater for a 3-pound Items from SDOB can be seen on the house and peanut butter- and cinnamon- Yo rkshire terrier, for example, costs family members of many fashion insid- carob-flavored bones for Fifi and Fido. $150, which includes the requisite $75 ers: Nanette Lepore’s Bonnie, a toy poo- More important for Cathy Wassner, who for yarn. dle; Elizabeth Fillmore’s Zoe, a pit bull; founded SDOB, the 2,400 scarves that When Wassner was stricken with Douglas Hannant’s Charles, a miniature Anthropologie bought are a validation of pneumonia three years ago, her recovery schnauzer, and Pete, a Yorkshire terrier; her creation and design skills. There are was spent teaching herself how to knit. and Marc Jacobs’ store manager Robert five different acrylic scarves, featuring With a couple of dogs in the household, Rich’s Dioji, a dachshund. one color and size for each style, and all making them sweaters and scarves was a “I have so many patterns, and I do it

are priced at $18. The scarves are hitting good way to hone her newfound knitting all to order. Everything is special-made,” JOHN AQUINO PHOTO BY the selling floor this month. skills. Wassner has over 100 samples Wassner said. She can be reached at Cathy Wassner and her babies — Zoe Rose, One can say that Wassner took advan- ranging from crate covers to , jew- [email protected], and expects to set Marilyn Monroe and Diesel — wearing tage of her husband, Gary, who is presi- elry, coats, leg warmers and even snoods, up a Web site shortly. Anthropologie scarves.

Located in West Hollywood, Da-Nang is one of the fastest growing couture lines in California. If you dream of working in an exotic and creative environment, we are always eager to add new talent to our team. Divisional We are currently looking to satisfy the following positions. Merchandise TECH DESIGNER Manager-Accessories Minimum 2 years experience with off shore product develop- Innovative growing company ment. Candidates will be evaluating in proto to production seeks experienced,self- and translating drawings into proper tech packs. Also be motivated, high-energy able to communicate well with factories and sample room merchant with excellent overseas. Excellent computer skills a must. Denim experience taste level. Strong buying & preferred. mgmt history imperative. TECH DESIGNER - KIDS Minimum 5 years experience in kid business. Candidate will Intimate be evaluating into proto to production and translating draw- Apparel Buyer ings into proper tech packs. Also be able to communicate Seeking entrepreneurial well with factories and sample room overseas. Excellent team player w/excellent computer skills a must. Denim experience preferred. taste level. buying ASSOCIATE MERCHANDISER/DESIGNER experience a must. Candidates will be responsible for preparing board presentations, Please email resume to: line build-up from concept through final execution. Excellent [email protected] team work. Highly skilled with Illustrator, Photoshop and MAC. (Indicate job position) Graduate of Fashion School a must. PRE-PRODUCTION COORDINATOR 2 years experience with import production needed. Candidate LA FashionCareerFair will be in charge of monitoring the approval process. Highly organized, detail-oriented and able to take initiative, work Oct 21st, Cooper Building autonomously and communicate productively. Strong sense Apply to jobs before the fair! of urgency. www.fashioncareerfairs.com Please fax resume, attention Samira @ (323) 653-3707

DESIGNER As a leader in Evening Dresses, old Hollywood glamour, we are seeking a highly motivated, creative and energetic Designer. Minimum of 5-7 years of working experience. Responsible for researching the fabrics and trim markets. Must have knowledge of draping. Position requires a degree in . Excellent team work attitude and proficiency in Photoshop and Illustrator. Please e-mail your resume to: [email protected] Fax: (213) 622-0658 or Call: (213) 622-6677 24 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2004

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Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. No Lot Too Big or Too Small. Merchandise Coordinator Call CLOTHES-OUT: Rampage Clothing Co. seeks a (937) 898-2975 self-motivated leader with strong 1407 BROADWAY merchandising and managerial SHOWROOMS/OFFICES TREBOR MGMT skills for a merchandise coordina- Steven Lambert 212-944-6094 tor. Candidate must be able to analyze store business, build in Showroom / Office / Retail We find you space-best deal-no fee store relationships and communi- Sublet 525 7th/ready cate with both buying line and cor- CLOSE OUTS Garment Center Real Estate porate offices. Department store We Buy Men’s, Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 experience and computer skills are Women’s & Children’s required. Extensive travel. Flexible All Quantities hours. Pls fax resume: WE HAVE INSTANT MONEY 212-730-5126 We are nice people to deal with P.S. Large Piece Good Deals Also HBA and General Merchandise. Call Rocky 800-762-5488

JOBBER/EXPORTER We buy better goods. All categories, Cut/Sew/Ship including fabrics. Immediate $$. Small or big lots. We do markers and Please call 212-290-2336 samples too. Call 973-266-0901

ADMIN ASST 20-30K Garment importer seeks self-motivated individual to manage showroom and document processing. Must be able to multi-task in a small office environ- ment. Proficiency in MS Office a must. EXECUTIVE E-mail: [email protected] ASSISTANT Admin Since 1967 W-I-N-S-T-O-N to the CEO APPAREL STAFFING CEO of a top fashion company DESIGN*SALES*MERCH ADMIN*TECH*PRODUCTION seeking dedicated, detail oreinted (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 individual with at least 2 years PATTERNS, SAMPLES, working with the President of the PRODUCTIONS Alexis Bittar company. Must be computer liter- All lines,Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Data Entry Clerk ate, team player, detail oriented, Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Detail oriented organised date entry clerk. must be exp’d. F/T and able to handle multi task proj- PATTERNS, SAMPLES, VP KNITWEAR PRODUCTION ects. Excellent benefits. Excellent Line Manager / Jewelry Production Job # 316 opportunity for committed individ- PRODUCTIONS Will focus on time mgmt/ purchasing ual. Salary commensurate with Full servcie shop to the trade. Fine for fast paced prod line. Mandarin, Can- fast work. 212-869-2699. tonese a plus. F/T. comp lit. We are currently seeking a VP of Production for experience. the Erika and Pappagallo divisions of Jones Fax your resume and Great growth and benefits. fax res w/ salary requirements to salary to 718-422-7584 Apparel Group. Primary responsibilities include J. Taylor 212-869-3639 ALTERATIONS overseeing all aspects of knit top and sweater Supervisor of alternations dept. production, working with design team to sup- needed for upscale Madison Ave. Wizards School for Fashion bridal salon. Must have min. 3 yrs. exp. port fabric and trim needs, interacting with SHOWROOM TO SHARE Business Venture Fax resume to 646-219-4670 agents to develop prototype samples, negotiat- 1407 BROADWAY Leading women’s apparel manu- Ladies garment showroom looking to Fashion Computer Portfolio-Learn CONTROLLER ing prices with agents/factories. Additional re- share. Call Poonam @ (212) 921-9730 facturer seeks highly motivated Illustrator and Photoshop for Fashion 5-10 yrs. exp. for estab. hi-end apparel sponsibilities include production tracking and individuals interested in start up importer. Resp. for all phases of admin. Create flat, fabric and trend boards on &finc’loperations. MAS90, import exp., analysis of showroom sales and supply. Staff of or pre-existing opportunities. the computer. Scan fabrics into flats. CPA pref. Fax res/ sal reqs. Individuals must possess strong Create plaids, prints, stripes and solid (212) 398-9695 6reports to this position. Ideal candidate must sales and merchandising experi- repeat patterns and 1/2 drops. Place have a min. of 5 years senior level, high volume ence. We provide financing, back the patterns into flats. Create all trim Credit Manager items such as buttons, zippers, knitwear production experience, full understand- office, shipping and production pockets, ribbing, scallops and fancy rebecca taylor support. stitches. Texturing, color management, Fashion Co. seeks individual to submit ing of moderate market pricing and exp. deal- 1333 Broadway fast shortcuts and super fast editing. orders for credit approval. Overseas, Private furnished office available Fax particulars in confidence to: High speed learning - 6 four hour COD & foreign accts with strong com- ing with overseas factories. Must also possess in active office. 8 x 10 office. Mr. Jay 212-869-3639 classes - Bryant Park location puter & good communication skills, high taste level, excellent organizational skills, Call 646-674-1044 Call for details: Professor Atkinson factor with 5 yr min. exp. Please email 718-222-0421 resumes to [email protected] attention to detail and able to travel abroad. 5th Ave All Major Credit Cards Accepted NO CALLS PLEASE. HILSON PARTNER WANTED Men’s wear retailer looking for Partner. Customer Svc./Receptionist Qualified candidates should apply directly to: See website for floor plans Established 10 year clothing business Reliable, bright, organized person - www.HilsonManagement.com located within the world headquarters Microsoft Office skills a plus. Minimum http://careers.jny.com. of a major financial corporation. Partner 2 years experience. Comfortable atmos- 390 5th Ave/SWC 36 St can take over business within 2-3 years. phere. Fax resume to: 212-868-8197. We offer a competitive compensation package Beautiful Office/Showroom Bldg Please email resume or any interest to: [email protected] Design including life, health, dental and 401K plan. Entire 3rd floor 14,500 SF Contemporary Women’s Assistant/Associate Designer An EEO/Affirmative Action Employer Successful, branded, private retail chain Leading Better Sportswear Co seeks 212-751-5884 for sale. Prime New York Region/Metro "Too Good To Be True" organized, moti- locations. Superior gross margins and Designer $$$Open 8th Ave #555 24/7 Attendant vated, creative Firecracker willing to do DESIGNER sales PSF. Proven track record. Exclusive whatever it takes. Must have drawing Boys/girls to 20 licensed streetwear Best Deals On The Avenue design. Strong mdsg. & brand support. jewelry and gift company Janet*Just Mgmt* 800-544-5878 675-3108 sq ft Beautifully Renovated skills, spec, sketch, technical packages, seeks trendy designer with one/two Excellent expansion opportunity. Princi- EMB layouts. 2-3 years experience work- [email protected] Owner 212-695-0005 Or 718-387-0500 pals only. Call Stephen Blum: 212-603-7505 years exp. in industry. Beading, manipula- ing with China a must. Fax resume to tion, sketching abilities required. Customized Knitwear Design Studio Natasha at: 212-302-3872 High-End Couture Fax resume: 212-354-5105 DESIGNERS $75K+ Handknit Swatches, Samples, Production JUNIORS CUT & SEW KNITS Brand Name Design Exp-No Minimum DESIGN DIRECTOR Fashion Network: 201-503-1060/Fax 1070 Call 917-612-1094 LUXURY FURS Designer Luxury Outerwear Co. with established Costume jewelry and gift company DESIGNER private label & licensed celebrity brand seeks trendy jewelry designer with PATTERN/SAMPLES RASKIN EXECUTIVE SEARCH seeks an experienced Designer with fur one/two years exp in industry. Bead- WOMEN’S OUTERWEAR Exclusive to the Fashion Industry background to conceptualize & develop ing, manipulation, sketching abilities Well established fashion co with nation- Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast both collections. Director responsible for required. Fax resume to 212-354-5105 al distribution seeks designer with 5+ work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 Ileen Raskin 212-213-6381 planning, sketching/designing, pattern years women’s outerwear/sportswear Nancy Bottali, Accessory 212-213-6386 development, fittings and sourcing. Must experience. Needs to be familiar with be creative, talented, self-motivated and outerwear fabrics and have strong abili- Patterns/Samples/Beading Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384 team player. Knowledge of fur and rele- Designer ty to capture existing trends for moder- Duplicates Cut & Sew Fax: 609-448-8248 vant industry experience req’d. Excellent Men & Children’s Apparel ate to better market for branded wom- Full Service - Small Production www.raskinexecsearch.com opportunity! Please Fax resume and Experience a must. en’s line. Please e-mail resume in confi- Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 salary requirements to: 212-760-1223 Call Nathan @ 212-868-3351 dence to: [email protected] WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2004 25

Director of Quality Assurance and Control Leading childrenswear company is seeking a high level, detail-oriented Di- rector of Quality Assurance and Con- trol. The candidate should have a mini- mum of 5 years experience in Quality Assurance and 2 years in children’s ap- parel. The candidate will be responsi- ble for factory evaluations and Q.C. au- dits, quality assurance procedures, ven- dor compliance and quality assurance standards. This individual will work with pre-production and testing proce- dures along with pre and post design garment engineering. This position re- quires extensive overseas travel. Please e-mail your resume to: holt@ babytogs.com or fax to: (212)643-2826. No telephone calls please. EOE. EXCITING OPPORTUNITIES!!! TAYLOR HODSON Permanent & Freelance Positions available immediately Designers - Men’s Knits - 85K Tech Designers (w/Karat CAD) Design Assts Merchandising Assts Showroom Assts Submit resumes to: (212) 924-1503 [email protected] GERARD YOSCA SALES MANAGER Well known fashion jewelry designer seeks exp’d person to call on high end Marketing /Office Asst retailers & private label development. ($30K-35K) People skills a must, enthusiastic team Multinational Garment Buying House Production Manager - Domestic player who likes to work hard. Seeks an individual with min 2 Years experience preferably in the Apparel PRODUCTION ASST related industry to be based in North- Calvin Klein Jeans, Exp’d, org’d people person to asst w/ ern Virginia. Must be well organized sourcing, samples & fashion jewelry with computer skills, willing to per- a division of Warnaco Inc. prod’n. Pls fax res w/ sal: 212-768-8836. form day to day office tasks and assist the CEO in regular office operations, Calvin Klein Jeans has long been known as a driving force in Graphic Artist must be fluent in English and possess the fashion industry. From memorable advertising to Apparel company seeking artist for good communication skills. Please fax generic dept to design trendy & fresh resumes to HR @ 905-709-7436 innovative denim designs, Calvin Klein Jeans has evolved to art for junior, missy & plus. Must be become the sexy, modern and cool brand that it is today. proficient on the Mac in Illustrator & From a product perspective, we are returning to our roots Photoshop. Licensed character exp. a plus. Fax resume to Joe 212-944-1181 Merchandise Manager and creating styles that express purity of design and an Career opportunity to join a fast paced edginess, with looks that are natural and unassuming. We Graphic Artist growing multi-store retailer based out- Rapidly growing, major sportswear co. side of Washington DC. Position will Federated Merchandising Group, a $2 billion division of offer exciting and challenging careers for people who are be responsible for driving the merchandise passionate about our brand and are determined to succeed seeks artist w/trend-setting junior exp. Federated Department Stores, is seeking talented individuals Must be Mac proficient in illustrator & strategy for multiple brands and oversee in a fast-paced, creative environment. photoshop. License character experience A +. development of merchandise calendar for its growing private label businesses. Fax resume to Cyndi at 212-944-1181 and its related assortment planning and We currently have an opening for a Manager of Woven execution. 5+ years merchandising/ Production on our domestic production team. The successful Graphic Designer/Sketcher buying/planning experience. Strong Designer - INC Women’s candidate will have a minimum of 8 years related industry organizational, interpersonal, commu- Designer - Alfani Intimate Apparel Mass market denim and fashion co. seeks nication & presentation skills required Associate Designer - Style & Co. experience in a woven/denim production department. As Graphic Designer/Sketcher for a unique along with ability to assume a leader- the Production Manager you will be responsible for all position. Must be proficient at Illustrator ship role to our corporate buyers. Technical Designer - Kids &Photoshop. Duties will include hang Please fax resume to: (703) 269-5392 Product Manager aspects of sourcing, product development and production tag & label designs, working on adver- or E-mail: [email protected] management. We seek only those candidates with prior tising brochures, athletic logos and flat Merchandiser experience sourcing in the western hemisphere, a strong sketching. One to two years experience needed. Salary is commensurate with At FMG we focus on your personal and professional growth. knowledge of garment construction, and strong costing experience. Please send resume to: experience. In addition, qualified candidates must possess Fax: (212) 302-1980 MERCHANDISE We have in depth, on-the-job training and classroom outstanding communication skills, strong basic computer training to enhance both technical and management skills. skills and the ability to effectively manage a production HEAD PATTMKRS PLANNER FMG offers a wide range of community activities such as •Better Sportswear. Supervise 20.....$175K We are a successful, junior fashion soup kitchens, reading to children, clothing drives, etc. We team. •Dress Division. Supervise 10 ....$115K retailer with over 550 stores in the [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 and Puerto Rico. You are committed to helping provide you with a good work-life Please fax resume along with salary requirements to know us as G+G, Rave and Rave Girl. balance through flexible work schedules, discounted gym (212) 287-8752 or e-mail as an MS Word attachment to JOBS JOBS JOBS We currently have an outstanding memberships and much, much more. We believe that our [email protected] *Artists - Boy - Young Men- Girl- JR career opportunity at our corporate * CAD Designer -- Entry Level headquarters in New York City for an people are our most valuable resource! Come join FMG *Designer Assist Or Assoc. Jr. Knits experienced Merchandise Planner. and start your new career today! We are an equal opportunity employer M/F/D/V *Designer boy/girl Layette- N-I-gift sets *Designer or Assoc Swimwear The selected individual will partner *Designers-assists-assoc boy-girl-jr-yg men with merchants to plan classifications Federated Merchandising Group *Patternmaker / 1st --Yardages and assortment plans; manage OTB at 11 Penn Plaza, New York, New York 10001 *Production coords - bilingual chinese class level; support merchants at OTB Fax: 212-494-6824 or Email: *Product coord laison bet design & prod meetings with appropriate analysis as *Production:mgrs & coords & assists well as work with allocation depart- www.careers.federatedmerchandisinggroup.com -August Silk- *Quality Assurance/Control Director ment on regional needs and buys. *Retail Planners - Analysts $Hi Position requires a Bachelor’s degree; Tech Design & Sales *Sales Asst or Assoc 1-2yr shwrm sell aminimum of 3 years experience in *Technical Desgn&Assists&entrylevel merchandise planning and MS Office Sr. Technical Production Coordinator Wovens - Must be Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agcy) proficient (Excel). fit expert & have knowledge of pattern making. Will be resp. Manager/Client We offer an excellent salary & benefits for all product fit approvals for proto and bulk. Monitor pro- package. Interested candidates should duction calendar, direct fit meetings, and communicate daily Service Professional submit their resume by email: We are seeking an experienced Manager/ [email protected] or SENIOR DESIGNER w/factories. Knowledge of Cantonese & Mandarin a plus. Client Service Professional to run all fax (212) 564-1856. Please visit aspects of a salon business, including us at www.gorave.com EOE A nationally recognized trend setting jewelry brand has the Technical Coordinator T-shirts (cut & sew) - Minimum 2 - staffing/HR, client service, marketing position of Senior Designer available. Min. of 5 yrs exp. and and strategic planning. Past or current knowledge of trend and costume jewelry markets. Must be 3 years experience in cut & sew tops. Technical Coordina- exposure to the salon/spa business a tor Sweaters - Reports directly to Technical Director of Cor- plus. Candidates must have a great MERCHANDISER creative, organized and able to render to model maker speci- porate Knitwear. personal presentation, be self motivated, Ladies’ Bottoms fications. Candidate must possess leadership qualities and have good people skills, be accountable If you are a merchandising pro with take charge of multiple brands. Salary to commensurate with Work with designer on proto fittings, coordinate and run pro- and have an ability to think on their proven experience in ladies casual duction fittings. Resp. for all bulk approvals. Track, spec, and feet. Please email cover letter, salary bottoms, we offer an exciting opportunity experience. If you seek an energetic, fashionable, challeng- communicate fit comments to factories. Liason between de- requirements and resume to: to join the team of an incredibly ing and success driven career then please apply. sign and production. High productivity level and excellent [email protected] successful private-label apparel and accessories company. We offer competitive salary to commensurate with exp. as org. skills a must for both positions. Opportunity for Key Responsibilities: advancement MANAGER Manage and grow ladies’ bottoms busi- well as a strong benefits package. All inquiries will be kept Morgane Le Fay is seeking a manager ness. Oversee day-to-day operations. confidential. Please e-mail resumes to: for their Madison Ave. store. Must have Identify and implement new product [email protected] or fax 212-334-6152 Account Executives - Private Label 3 yrs. experience in designer clothing. opportunities from concept through Creative Thinker with Min 5 years sales and marketing exp. Please fax resume, attention Silvia @ completion. (212) 604-9190 Strong relationships and contacts with chain/mass Requirements: merchants. The ideal candidate is a self-motivated MARITHÉ+FRANÇOIS team player with at least 7 years of ex- perience and strong denim back- Please fax resumes: 212-221-6393. No phone calls please. GIRBAUD ground. The ability to work effectively DESIGN MANAGER in teams with buyers and suppliers is Tech Designer crucial. Creative professional with a keen sense of fashion and home Tech Designer to handle all aspects of DESIGNER All inquiries are to include decor trends in the marketplace needed for fast growing int’l technical design for our jeans and salary requirements. home fragrance co. in Maryland. Our large client base WOVENS / KNITS sportswear collections for determining Please fax attn: Denny @ 212-221-3857 specs for first protos, fittings from start includes most of the premier retailers such as Target, Kohl’s, Womenswear private label co. looking for designer knowledgeable in wovens/ through production, set up fitting ses- Ikea, JCP, BBB and LNT. Requires the ability to translate sales knits. Requires great eye for print, col- sions, review and approve samples for MERCHANDISING MGR $150K product fit w/comments w/design team. ideas to produce tangible results and the ability to follow or & trend. All candidates must have New Jr Collection. Product Devel through w/ creative ideas to execution. Project management portfolio & 5 yrs. exp. Will be proactive Candidates must have a min. of 5 years’ Line Planning. Interface w/Prodn/Design in fabric development/print & follow exp with good interpersonal skills and [email protected]; Call: 212-947-3400 experience required to manage product development and up with overseas offices. Strong com- ability to work in a fast-paced environ- design teams. Previous store merchandising and buying exp. munication, organizational skills a ment. Strong understanding of all tech a plus. Relocation to Washington DC metropolitan area must; as well as; ability to flat sketch specs, creating spec pkgs, tech sketch, Order Entry Specialist with understanding of garment con- grading, and sewing construction. Wholesale Co. seeks organized person is required. Competitive salary, bonus and benefits. struction & fit. Should be computer lit- Strong overseas vendor comm necessary. for order processing and logistics. erate. Up to date portfolio req. Large MUST have good communication Fax resume to 301-816-4230 or E-mail: public co. w/ benefits. For interview.... Please fax resume to: 212-967-4389 skills and the ability to multi-task. [email protected] FAX 212-556-5431 NO PHONE CALLS PLEASE Fax resume to 212-279-0131 26 WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2004

Accessory Exchange is a leading resource of licensed, branded and private label accessories in the junior and ladies market. Our recent growth has created the following opportunities.

Division Head -High Profile Junior Brand- Seeking professional to take the lead in this newly created division. Candidate must have strong sales background with Mid-tier and some experience in department store accounts. We are seeking a self motivated individual with the leadership skills to manage both the prod- uct development and sales process. Inventory management and sales planning experience a plus.

Sales Assistant -XOXO- Seeking energetic sales assistant for XOXO handbag division. This position will have direct sales responsibility, in addition to supporting our sales team. Individual must be highly organ- ized, detail oriented, hard working and self-motivated. Strong computer skills a must. Great growth potential with expanding division.

Merchandise Planner We are seeking a self-starting individual with experience in building and analyzing retail finan- cial plans. The successful candidate will be capable of interpreting weekly retail sales and in- ventory data, and guiding company decisions based on their work. You should have knowl- edge of major department stores’ decision support systems, including Retail Link and Partners On-Line. Strong computer and communication skills, along with effective customer relations are required. You must be proficient with Excel, Access and Visual Basic..

We offer a fantastic working environment along with a competitive salary and benefits pack- age. E-mail a cover letter and resume, along with your salary history to patricia.o’[email protected]. Please identify the position you are seeking in your cover letter. Join our team!!

PRODUCT DEVELOP. ASSOCIATE Wanted for mens/boys swim-wear and Director of Women’s Apparel wovens importer for execution of product packages communication skills with Production Coordinator Production Manager PRODUCT MANAGER overseas factories essential. 3 years exp. Exciting "Cool Hunting" sportswear required. Fax resume to 212-695-1050 NYC Cold Weather Accessory Company We seek a Product Manager to work and Product Developer division of a leading Children’s Wear seeking a detail oriented individual with the design team and sales group apparel importer seeks organized, with strong organizational and commu- from development stage through ship- TravelSmith, located in Novato, California, 30 minutes detail-oriented individual to handle all nication skills to coordinate overseas ping. Knowledge of retailer reporting Product Developer,Sr phases of production. Successful candi- production as well as customer Boulder, CO and quality systems (i.e., Partners On north of San Francisco, is the premier catalog and e-commerce date must have 3-5 years experience in relations. At least 3 years experience Line to pull up reports, factory Join an exciting company w/ working with overseas factories. Must required. Must be motivated, self starter, retailer of travel apparel and accessories. We are seeking a passion for the outdoors! registration) required. Garment and Director of Women’s Apparel and a Product Developer have excellent communication skills good with numbers, computer literate, fabric testing procedure as well as casual Pearl Izumi, a high performance and be motivated to work hard in a and able to multi task. woven bottoms experience, knowledge for our dynamic and growing women’s apparel division. apparel manufacturer is seeking a Sr. great environment. Knowledge of Ex- MAIL ONLY! Indicate ad # 1075 of bottom washes, finishes and fabric Product Developer. Responsible for all cel is required and proficiency in Man- On outside of Envelope!! constructions a must. In these positions, which were newly created due to our aspects of taking a product from 2D darin is a plus. We offer a competitive Realservice Advertising Agy. growth and expanding business plans, the Director will be design to a "commercialized" 3D, produc- salary and benefits package. For con- 358 Saw Mill River Road Minimum 3-5 years experience. Good tion ready garment. BA, plus 5+ years’ sideration fax resume to (212) 643-1345 Millwood, New York 10546 communication skills and analytical responsible for developing overall merchandising strategy for product development experience. or email to [email protected] ability to interpret customers in stock women’s apparel product lines, meeting company financial *Proficiency w/ PC MS Office and requirements (to read ladders and be targets, product development and directing the work of team Adobe Illustrator. Mastery of design Production Coordinator able to monitor whse stock). to ensure effective execution. Minimum of 7 years women’s and development process from incep- tion through production. Growing accessory company is looking Production/Sales Associate Please fax or email resume to: apparel product development experience in catalog/direct for an experienced production person. Import private label sweater mfr seeks 646-366-0288 or [email protected] mail environment, along with strong business acumen, and *Strong leadership, verbal and written Must be detailed oriented and able to indiv. w/ 1-3 yrs exp in sales and exceptional communication skills required. communication skills handle multiple tasks. Handbag/ back- production. Must be detail-oriented, *Complete understanding of the pack experience is preferred. motivated, computer savvy and organ- The Product Developer will be responsible for developing product creation process and ability to Please email resumes ized willing to work in a fast paced train others. to: [email protected] environment. Position includes manag- appealing, saleable product, consistent with company focus ing multiple major accounts and having Public Relations Manager and target customer, utilizing fabrics in silhouettes suitable Excellent Salary and benefits. knowledge of retail link. Must be able to Reporting to the Director of Public Fax or email resume: Production Coordinator multi-task and work well under pres- Relations, the PR Manager will help for travel and manage all business aspects of product devel- [email protected] Major Sptswear Importer seeks experi- sure. Email resume attn: Aisha Cowart: develop and execute media and celebri- opment cycle, meeting company financial goals. Prior exp. FAX (303)466-4237 enced team player to be part of fast paced [email protected] ty relations. This position is responsi- developing product in women’s apparel required, along with Visit us at: www.PEARLIZUMI.com prod. dept. Candidate must be organized, ble for being the primary point person great w/ details, have outstanding commu- for the following: Day-to-day press strong systems, analytical ability, and communication skills. Production Admin. Asst. nication and computer skills. The ability activity such as generating media cov- Apparel sourcing co. seeks Prod’n Admin. to multitask a must. Some domestic exp a erage for editorial content, handling TravelSmith offers a competitive salary and excellent benefits Asst. Req’s smart, highly motivated & plus.Employee friendly with full com- written materials for press and inter- package including unique benefits such as a fully paid sab- organized individual with fashion back- pany benefits! Production Spec Tech $45-$50K. Cur- nal distribution (i.e.. press releases, batical program. Resumes and cover letters w/ sal history ground. Recent graduates also welcome. Please fax your resume to: rent exp in writing spec sheets, tech bios, media alerts, etc). Responding to Multi-tasking key requirement. JM 212-944-2867 packages, knowledge sewing instruc- media requests for information, photo and requirements to: [email protected],orvia fax to: Please fax resume to: (212) 967-2097 tions, put together cost sheets. Compu- shoots and interviews, as well as active- (415) 884-1398. www.travelsmith.com terized. Call 973-564-9236 Jaral Agcy. ly seeking out the media for coverage. PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Develop communications strategies. Production Coordin. Import Knit Exp Package and leverage company media Production Assistant Production Coordin. Bilingual Sportswear Eveningwear Co seeks Production Asst coverage (clip books, videos) for Sales Apparel Staffing, Ltd. Fax (212) 302-1161 team use. Manage media lists. Assist with 2-4 years experience to handle data entry, shipping, phones and vari- with public relations efforts involving ous duties in a production dept. Must Production Coord. / community relations. Three to five have understanding of garment years fashion PR experience required. PATTERNMAKER industry, pattern layout and clothing Purchasing Send cover letter and resume. Contemporary Sportswear Co. seeks construction. Please fax only if you Midtown fashion accessories importer Subject Header: PR Email: top-notch 1st patternmaker from the meet the above criteria: 212-221-0509 seeks a hardworking, detail oriented, recruiting@verawang. Contemporary Jr. Market. Abilities team player to be involved w/ various PRODUCT com No phone calls please. will include excellent flat pattern skills phases of the production / importing with an understanding of specs and Production Assistant process. Fast paced office. Apparel MANAGER - ASST. grading, detailed cutter’s must, complete Leading children’s wear importer seeks background very helpful. Comp skills NEW JERSEY knowledge of all types of knits/wovens an experienced production assistant. req. Mandarin fluency helpful. Please RETAIL BUYER with shrinkage issues. Ideal candidate Responsibilities include daily e-mail Leading producer of home fashions send resume to: [email protected] seeks take-charge individual to join Delaware North Companies Parks and must have 3+ years of experience. communication with oversea factories Resorts is seeking an experienced Retail If you possess these skills fax/email and all phases of approval process. Ideal our Product Development team. Resp PLANNERS include assisting in all aspects of the Buyer for a historic location in San Diego! resume to {212} 947-6480/ candidates must have 2 to 3 years exp; This position will have primary respon- [email protected] knowledge and understanding of gar- product development process, tracking Retail……………………………....65-100K PRODUCTION line development, coordinating with sibility for selecting and purchasing Merchandise…………………….…65-80K ment construction, knit and woven fab- merchandise for the Old Town San Diego rics; must be detail oriented with good design, assisting sales force & PATTERNMAKER Replenishment / Allocation Analyst... 40-50K MANAGER customers, and other related duties. retail operations, with an emphasis on Distribution Analyst ...…………..40-50K communication skill, computer skill Highly reputed expanding Dress interpretive and graphic specific items. Well-known bridal & eveningwear and able to work under pressure. Also Qualified candidates should have 2+ design house seeks patternmaker with manufacturer requires professional year’s related exp. Exp working with Minimum of 5 years buying experience must be a team player. production manager. 3-5 years experience in a gift or souvenir setting. Bachelor’s min. 5 yrs. exp. background in Couture TECH DESIGNERS Please fax resume & salary requirement Dept Stores and/or Mass Merchants a design from first pattern thru essential. Responsible for daily plus. College degree is desirable. Send degree in business or retail preferred. Sportswear (womens)……….……65-75K to: 212-564-5201 Attn. CB international vendor communication, Strong organizational, analytical and production. Good with detail. Sweaters (mens/womens)………,65-85K resume to: Recruiter Fax resume to 212-202-4837 order placement and tracking, accurate communication skills. Team spirit and Wovens, (tops / bottoms) ………..65-70K entry and preparation of wholesale Franco Manufacturing hands-on approach. Swimwear…………………………..65-80K Production Assistant orders, quality control of inbound ship- Company, Inc. PATTERNMAKER Intimate…………………………….70-80K Young men’s/boy’s & girls swimwear ments, overseeing and packing all orders 555 Prospect Street Qualified candidates may Women’s Sportswear Co. seeks pattern- Entry Level……………...... 28-35K importer requires Production Assis- for national distribution, and all duties Metuchen, NJ 08840 E-mail their resumes to: maker with solid knowledge of Gerber (Please define which position you’re applying for) tant. Must be highly organized, associated with day to day running of Fax: 732-906-0591 [email protected] or PDS computer patternmaking system. www.tuttleagency.com efficient, and familiar with overseas the department. Email resume and Email:[email protected] Fax: (716) 858-5101 Min 5 yrs. exp. Full time/part time. Fax resumes: 212-448-0932 Attn: Chris imports. salary in complete confidence to: Visit our site: www.francomfg.com Drug Screening Employer EOE Fax Resume to 212-768-8873 Or email: [email protected] Please fax resume to: 212-695-1050 [email protected], REF 3294 EOE M/F/D/V M/F/V/D WWD, WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 15, 2004 27

Sales Assistant DONNA RICCO Girl SALES PROFESSIONALS PAUL&SHARK Established, fast paced ladies apparel co Seeking dynamic / experienced sales Progressive girl’s sportswear importer Immediate part time Sales position for seeks a detail oriented, organized, indiv executive for better Girls 7-16 dress collec- seeks exp’d Salespeople with kids/girls a qualified sales person. to work closely with VP of Sales. Follow tion. Busy NYC showroom! Must be import bkgrd only!! Established denim Please fax 212-452-9861 Attn: Sal Cretella up customer sample needs and deliver- self motivated and have strong depart- importer seeks Sales & Sales Mgr with ies. Coordinate with production on Sales ment store & specialty store connections. buyers/mgmt contacts at the retail level. Line Sheets, Coord Nat’l Sales Mtg. Plus Please fax resume to 917-591-8629 Call Carla: 212-947-3399 x12, Fax: 201- PAUL&SHARK much more. Must have excellent commu- 894-1186 or email: [email protected] OPENING IN nication and computer skills. If you are Great Opportunity! KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS described as fast paced and a multi task Fast growing accessory co. (sandals, SO. FLORIDA 12/03 type person, please apply for this excit- , legwear, novelties) seeks high- Sales Professional Has openings for a Sales Manager and ing oppty. Excellent benefits. ly motivated salesperson. Must have 3 We are seeking highly motivated sales Complete Sales Staff, Salary + Com- Fax to 212-391-5268 yrs exp. in the accessory market and professional with current contacts in mission, Great Benefits Package. or email to [email protected] solid relationships with buyers/chains. Dept & Speciality stores for a hip Jr Please fax resume to 212-452-9861 Travel a must. Salary + comm. dress & sptswr co. Salary + commis- Attn: Sal Cretella Sweater Designer Please fax resume to: 212-967-3912 sion. Excellent environment for moti- FREELANCE vated professional. E-mail resumes to: Retail Sales Assoc. Seeking strong person with technical LINGERIE [email protected] Hirshleifer’s seeks sales associates sweater knitting exp. Responsibilities Est’d Madison Ave. Lingerie Co. seeks with extensive experience in designer include graphing (floating jacquards, Account Executives in Daywear/ SALES TRAINEE RTW and accessories for their new Dolce cables, intarsias, stripes), PDM Gerber, &Sleepwear. Only exp’d. candidates need Sweater company seeks energetic sales- & Gabbana and Jil Sander boutiques. presentation boards and administrative apply. Fax resume to: 212-889-8411 person willing to learn. Must be enthu- Fax resume to: 516-627-3579 duties. Primavision or Photoshop exp, siastic and detail oriented. Please fax for graphing a must. Please fax resume, response to 212-768-2102 Att: Kim. Attention BK @ (212) 840-5670 PLANNER LUCKY BRAND has an outstanding career opportunity for a Planner with a Sales Trainee Wtd. Tech Designer Asst/Sr High energy apparel co. seeks bright, High volume childrenswear company minimum of 2 years related experi- ence. This position will be based in our energetic person w/ great communica- seeks Tech Designers to join our fast tion skills and an interest in sales. Will growing team. Asst - entry level ok, NY showroom. Will work with Director of Planning and all Account maintain showroom, good organizational must be willing to learn. Sr. Tech - min and multi-tasking skills a must. Strong 5yrsexp. Knowledge of patternmaking, Executives on retail sales planning for our major accts. Responsible for retail client follow-up and strong computer construction & communicate well with skills a must. Must have knowledge of fty’s. Fax resume 212.967.8631 Att: CC sales performance analysis including, weekly sales and inventory monitor- Excel and digital imaging software. Medical Mfr. offering a full ing, monthly profitability, monthly by Please fax resume to: line of both domestic and imported TECH DESIGNER door sales and stock analysis and Attention Tamar @ (212) 768-2835 , lab coats, etc. for Illinois and seasonal recaps. Will also be responsible surrounding states. West Coast also for a Kellwood Div WANTED SALES REP IN THE U.S. Kellwood Div. seeks ind w/ stong for booking/shipping analysis including, available. Other non-conflicting lines OK. Leading Woven apparel manufactur- Call Mr. Steyert (800) 433-0222 specing ability for dresses and suits. tracking account bookings, forecasting ing company in India, exporting cloth- Candidate must have min 3 years expe- bookings and tracking sales goals for ing to leading European departmental, rience. Strong knowledge of garment account executives. Should have chain stores and brand labels for their SALES ASSOCIATES PT/FT construction, experience in production knowledge of retail math, strong com- Men’s, Women, and Children range. Luxury shoe store seeks FT/PT Sales fitting and experience to create Tech munication and computer skills With comprehensive manufacturing Associates. Candidates must possess Packs for complete garments mfr’d in (excel). Ability to multi-task a must. factories including cut to pack, embroi- strong communication skills, be energetic Asia is required. Must have strong com- dery, washing and various other value and provide excellent customer service. munications skills and be computer lit- For consideration, please fax added facilities all COC AND GPQ Salary + Commission + Benefits. erate w/ knowledge in Web PDB and resume and salary history to: compliant. Pls email us with your Please fax resume to: (212) 421-9094 Excel. (323) 589-2460 or email: intrest at [email protected]. Fax resume and salary to 212-719-3121 [email protected] EOE US REPS WANTED Lucky Brand is an Equal Opportunity/ Designer European collection of hand Affirmative Action Employer (M/F/D/V). knit sweaters and tailored items seeks Tech Designer US Reps. 5 yr. old Co. with gorgeous Secaucus co. seeks Tech Designer full- SALES ASSISTANT styling. All key territories available. fashion sweaters; cut&sew knits. Must Established women’s apparel manufac- Excellent commissions. Please send have complete knwldg sweaters, yarns, turer seeks dynamic, energetic, persona- Judith Ripka Companies resume to: [email protected] stitches. Must be exp’d in specing, fit- ble individual for entry level sales posi- Seeking the Best in Class!!! tings, patterns, grading, sewing, tion in NY showroom. Must have excel- Unique opportunity to join a team of Sales sketching. Strong vendor comn & lent communication skills, be hard Pros at a flagship Madison Ave., Short Hills, comptr skills. 5 yrs exp. Salary com- working and looking for a tremendous NJ, East Hills, LI, locations. 3+ years of mensurate with experience. opportunity for a career in sales. luxury sales exp. req’d. with polished Fax Dir Tech Design: 201-866-0387 Fax resume to: 212-354-1974 presentation/exceptional communication skills and proven track record. Strong SALES ASSISTANT client following a must. Excellent benefits Expanding accessory importer seeks package & high income earning potential Tech Designer, Sr. highly motivated sales assistant for available. Cosmetic or fashion exp. is a Major label has the following immediate NY showroom. Fax or email resume: +++++ Please send resumes: openings-all positions require minimum 309-273-9570 or [email protected] Attn: Theresa @ Fax: (212) 244-4560 5yrsexp in tech design, patternmaking, and WEB-PDM or similar MANAGER 1. Sr Tech Designer- Juniors Sales Director Ahigh-endBoutique is looking for a 2. Sr Tech Designer /Jrs mgr-wovens Top Contemporary multi line showroom is MANAGER. The candidate must have PATTERNMAKER 3. Sr Tech Designer missy woven shirts seeking seasoned sales professional with atleast 1 year of managerial experience 25 yrs experience in bridal, evening 4. Freelance Tech Designers proven track record. Strong Specialty in fashion. Please Fax resume Attn: wear, dresses, draping, first pattern [email protected] Store following a must! Relationships with Retail Operations : 212-428-6758 through production. Call: 718-380-7133. Nordstrom’s, Saks, Bloomingdale’s and the like are neccessary. Candidate must have TECH DESIGNER SALES EXECUTIVE strong organizational skills, and be pre- Womenswear mfr. in NYC seeks Tech pared to lead a sales team. Ability to start Designer for high-end sportswear, (Job #289) for Coterie a plus. Salary + commission suits and evening with minimum 3 structure commensurate with experience. years experience. Responsibilities We are currently seeking a Sales Executive for a Fax resume in confidence to: 212-997-7778 include: Patternmaking, grading, measuring and fitting samples, issuing fast growing, fast paced division. Selected can- SALES specs, approving pre-prod smpls, and didate must have prior experience in planning Group of Southeast Asia apparel factories, communicating with domestic facto- with a sales office in NY, seeks a highly ries. Position reports to Design and and/or open to buys and possess excellent motivated salesperson to sell stocks and works very closely with Production. private label. Min. 5 yrs. exp. Must have You must be a take-charge person, PC analytical/retail math skills. Must have at least excellent contacts with Dept./Specialty/ literate, with excellent written and 5yrs. major dept. store selling experience. Re- Discount stores. Ideal candidate should verbal communication skills. Please be able to generate sales and meet include salary requirements to be tail background a plus. established sales targets. Candidate considered. Please fax resume to: must be a team player, detail oriented 240.332.7673 Qualified candidates should apply directly to: &possess excellent written and verbal skills. Travel required. Base+ Commission http://careers.jny.com. /Benefits. Please e-mail resume to: [email protected] TECHNICAL DESIGNER/ We offer a competitive compensation package CAD ARTIST including life, health, dental and 401K plan. SALES Est’d. Men’s/Juniors’Apparel Co. seeks Leading high-end bridal/eveningwear exp’d. Technical Designer/Cad Artist. An EEO/Affirmative Action Employer design house seeks sales professionals Must be proficient on Illustrator. w/exp. in wholesale & retail sales Please Fax or E-mail resume to Jennifer: and trunk shows. Following w/ inde- 212-221-8717 / [email protected] pendent salons, dept. stores and computer skills a must. Fax resume with sal req. to 212-202-4837 LAWMAN Technical Designer Great Opportunities!!! SALES MANAGER-Women’s Join our team-we are launching a new high SPORTSWEAR for Exp. Sales Executives Available Bobby Jones, a name synonymous profile celebrity ladies better sportswear *Cosmetics - Mass and Specialty Stores. with superior quality golf and sports- line! Candidate has knowledge of specs, Manufacturer building - Department and Specialty. wear has an exceptional opportunity specing garments, construction, grading, National Sales Team *Jewelry available for a highly motivated to *Infant Apparel - Mid tier / Kohl’s patternmaking & fit evaluation. Must launch young contemporary candidate to join our NYC team in our be highly organized & detail oriented *Men’s Loungewear - Private Label expanding Women’s line. A min of 3-5 w/ excellent follow up skills with both denim line and - Mid tier / Kohl’s yrs exp in women’s wear sales & mktg overseas factory & customer tech dept *Picture Frames is required. Enhance your career w/ line for men and women. *Watches - Department and Mass from development to production. Overseas Seeking reps w/ 5 yrs exp. our prestigious organization and travel required & computer literate/excel Call ACCESSORY EXECUTIVES receive an excellent compensation & a must. Fax resumes to 212-730-2839 and strong network with For details @ (212)-213-6386 or benefit package. Pls submit resume: moderate dept. & specialty Email Resumes: [email protected] [email protected] or stores. Pls email resume to: fax: 585-467-1315 [email protected] Trainer/Quality Control Salesperson Wanted !!! QC Inspector to train new sewers to make Well est’d. Importer of ladies’ Sportswear, men’s military/Air Force . Will Dresses, Tops, Urban Wear, and related do QC inspecting/records. Must be an Generous Base, separates seeks Salesperson with strong exp’d. trainer and speak English fluently. Account Executive Commission+Benefits connection to Chain, Dept., and Specialty Ref. req’d. B’klyn location. Great bene & Children’s Apparel Stores. Please Fax or E-mail resume to: sal. EOE Fax resume to: 718-853-8805 Well established Woven Apparel Aleading Manhattan based childrenswear company seeks a seasoned sales profes- 212-382-1732 / [email protected] co. is seeking a high-level motivated sional with excellent contacts & sales children’s apparel Account Executive. base. Must be able to bring in serious Candidate must have extensive children’s accounts for this 12 plus year firm. apparel contacts and sale exp. Need to SALES PRO - Fabrics Warehouse Office Manager track retail sales & maintain appropriate A BA in Business is preferred; 8-10 yrs Leading Chinese Mills w/ NY office NJ Location. -Must be experienced stock levels. Involvement with merchandising experience in sales and Marketing seeks exp’d Sales Professional. Must and familiar with all dept + chain &product development. Must be avail- Woven Apparel business required. have major contacts & proven record. stores shipping procedures. Lucrative able to travel. Excellent salary & benefits. Must be computer literate. Independent Sales Reps welcome. opportunity for dedicated, hands on Please fax resume to 212-869-2781 Fax resume: Please fax resume to: (212) 869-1787 or person. Fax resume: 212-869-3671 Attn: Cathy [email protected] Email: [email protected] Cotton Incorporated, 2002. © k of Cotton Incorporated. Registered Service Mark/Trademar ® TERS. AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPOR PRODUCERS AMERICA’S COTTON

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