Detailed Analysis of Beach Nourishment and its Impact on the Surfing Wave Environment of Brevard County, Florida
by John Hearin Ph.D. Candidate Ocean Engineering Introduction
• Significant debate regarding impact of beach nourishment projects on the surfing wave environment
• Surfing organizations have lobbied to modify or block coastal engineering projects which threatened popular surf breaks
• Analyze historical and ongoing beach nourishment projects in Brevard County, Florida
• Determine impact to North Reach and South Reach surfing wave environments Management Reaches of Brevard County, FL
Cape Canaveral Port Canaveral
North Reach – Port Canaveral (R-0) to Patrick AFB (R-54)
Patrick Air Force Base – (R-54 to R-75)
Mid Reach – Patrick AFB (R-75) to Indialantic (R-118)
South Reach – Indialantic (R-118) to Melbourne Beach (R-139)
South Beaches – Melbourne Beach (R-139) to Sebastian Inlet (R- 219)
Sebastian Inlet 90 µm = 0.09 mm = 3.5 phi
1971 Native Shoreline Mean – Fine Sand Mode – Very Fine Sand (Wentworth Classification)
(USACE, 1987) North Reach Nourishment Methods:
Port Canaveral Port Canaveral Harbor Sand Bypass 1972: 200,000 yd3 1995: 783,000 yd3 1998: 1,035,000 yd3 2007: 750,000 yd3 2010: 650,000 yd3 (Brevard County, 2011) North Reach Nourishment Methods: Port Canaveral Port Canaveral Trident Basin Dredge 1974: 2,850,000 yd3 (Brevard County, 2011) North Reach Composite Grain Size Distributions 1971-1986 50 1971 R 17-22 Composite
1977 R 17-22 Composite 40 1986 R 1-16 Composite
1971 – 1986 Shoreline 30 Mean – Fine Sand Mode – Very Fine Sand (Wentworth Classification)
20 Class Weight (%) (%) Weight Class
10
0 10 100 1000 10000 Grain Size (µm) (USACE, 1987) Brevard County Composite Grain Size Distributions 1989
R-36 Cocoa Beach Composite (North Reach) 50 R-64 Patrick AFB Composite (Patrick)
R-93 Satellite Beach Composite (Mid Reach) 40 R-125 Indiatlantic Composite (South Reach)
Brevard County Beaches Composite 1989 30
Class Weight (%) (%) Weight Class 20
10
0 10 100 1000 10000 Grain Size (µm) (Olsen, 1989) North Reach Composite Grain Size Distributions 1971-1989 50 125 µm = 1971 R 17-22 Composite 0.125 mm = 1977 R 17-22 Composite 40 3.0 phi 1986 R 1-16 Composite
1989 R36 Composite 30 1989 Shoreline Mean – Fine Sand
20 Mode – Fine Sand Class Weight (%) (%) Weight Class (Wentworth Classification)
10
0 10 100 1000 10000 Grain Size (µm) (USACE,1987) (Olsen, 1989) R-36 Cross Shore Grain Size Distributions 1989 80 1989 R36 Dune
70 1989 R36 +3 ft Berm
60 1989 R36 -3 ft MLW 1989 R36 -6 ft Trough 50 1989 R36 -9 ft
40 1989 R36 -12 ft
Class Weight (%) (%) Weight Class 30 1989 Shoreline Means – Very Fine / Fine Sand 20 Modes – Very Fine / Fine Sand (Wentworth Classification) 10
0 10 100 1000 10000 Grain Size (µm) (Olsen, 1989) North Reach Nourishment Methods: Port Canaveral Harbor & Channel Dredge
Port Canaveral
1992: 79,000 yd3 1993: 50,000 yd3 1994: 68,000 yd3 3 Near Shore 1995: 122,000 yd Disposal (Brevard County, 2011) Site Port Canaveral Channel Borrow Site Composite Grain Size Distribution 60 1989 R36 Composite
50 1989 R36 -12 ft
1994 Borrow: Port Canaveral Channel
40 1994 Channel Fill Mean – Fine Sand 30 Mode – Very Fine Sand
(Wentworth Classification) Class Weight (%) (%) Weight Class 20
10
0 10 100 1000 10000 Grain Size (µm) (CAL-TECH,1994) (Olsen, 1989) North Reach Nourishment Methods: Truck Haul from Upland Sources
Port Canaveral
1994: 100,000 yd3 1996: 40,000 yd3 (Brevard County, 2011) North Reach Nourishment Methods:
Port Canaveral Port Canaveral Harbor Sand Bypass 1972: 200,000 yd3 1995: 783,000 yd3 1998: 1,035,000 yd3 2007: 750,000 yd3 2010: 650,000 yd3 (Brevard County, 2011) Cape Canaveral AFS Borrow Site Composite Grain Size Distribution 50 1986 R 1-16 Composite 1989 R36 Composite 1994 Borrow: Cape Canaveral AFS 40 1994 Cape AFS Fill Mean – Very Fine Sand 30 Mode – Very Fine Sand (Wentworth Classification)
20 Class Weight (%) (%) Weight Class
10
0 10 100 1000 10000 Grain Size (µm) (USACE,1987) (Olsen, 1989) (FDEP, 1994) Fill Template Port Canaveral Harbor Sand Bypass
Natural Foreshore Slope ≈ 1:50
Template Foreshore Slope = 1:25 (FDEP, Nov 2004) North Reach Nourishment Methods: Brevard County Shore Protection Project
Canaveral Port Canaveral Shoals II
2001 – 2,798,000 yd3 2005 – 754,600 yd3 (Brevard County, 2011) South Reach Nourishment Methods: Brevard County Shore Protection Project Canaveral Port Canaveral Shoals II
3 Space 2003 – 1,346,000 yd Coast Shoals II 2005 – 578,910 yd3 2010 – 636,000 yd3 (Brevard County, 2011)
Sebastian Inlet Brevard County Composite Grain Size Distributions 50 250 µm = North Reach R36 Comp 1989 0.250 mm = South Reach R-125 Comp 1989 40 2.0 phi
Borrow: Canaveral Shoals II 1998
30 1998 Canaveral Shoals II Fill Mean – Medium Sand Mode – Medium Sand (Wentworth Classification) 20 Class Weight (%) (%) Weight Class Median Grain Size Δ Fill – R36 = + 200 µm Recommended = ± 10 µm 10 (USACE CEM, 2007)
0 10 100 1000 10000 Grain Size (µm) (Olsen, 1989) (USACE, 2006) Fill Template Brevard County Shore Protection Project
Natural Foreshore Slope ≈ 1:50
Template Foreshore Slope = 1:15 (USACE, 1996) North Reach Composite Grain Size Distributions 1989 -2005 50 1989 R36 Composite
2001/2005 Fill Composite 40 2005 R21/R29 Composite
2005 Shoreline 30 Mean – Medium Sand Mode – Medium Sand (Wentworth Classification)
20 Class Weight (%) (%) Weight Class
10
0 10 100 1000 10000 Grain Size (µm) (Olsen, 1989) (USACE, 2006) (Hearin, 2005) FDEP Sand Rule Rule 62B-41.007(2)(j), Florida Administrative Code (Established 1992 / Amended 10/23/2001)
Use beach fill material that maintains the general character and functionality of the material occurring on the beach and in the adjacent dune and coastal system.
Characteristics include the sediment properties of grain size distribution, color and mineral composition (quartz and carbonate) and bulk properties of cementation and compaction. Research Findings
Fill material used in the 2001 and 2005 fill projects did not maintain the general character of the sediment occurring in the existing North Reach coastal system.
The mean & median grain size for the fill sediment was triple that of the existing beach while the mode was double.
The result was a nourished beach with a very different character than the existing beach. North Reach Nourishment Methods:
Port Canaveral Port Canaveral Harbor Sand Bypass 1972: 200,000 yd3 1995: 783,000 yd3 1998: 1,035,000 yd3 2007: 750,000 yd3 2010: 650,000 yd3 (Brevard County, 2011) North Reach Composite Grain Size Comparisons 1989 - 2011 50 1989 R-36 Composite
2005 R21/R29 Composite
40 2007/2010 Updrift Fill Composite: Borrow Data 2003 Cape Canaveral AFS 2011 R36 Composite 30 2011 Shoreline Mean – Fine Sand
20 Mode – Fine Sand Class Weight (%) (%) Weight Class (Wentworth Classification)
10
0 10 100 1000 10000 Grain Size (µm) (Olsen, 1989) (Hearin, 2005) (USACE, 2003) (Hearin, 2011) R-36 Cross Shore Grain Size Distributions 1989 and 2011 80 1989 R36 Dune 2011 R36 Dune 70 1989 R36 Berm 2011 R36 Berm 60 1989 R36 MHW 2011 R36 MHW 50 1989 R36 MLW 2011 R36 MLW 40 1989 R36 Trough 2011 R36 Trough
Class Weight (%) (%) Weight Class 30 1989 R36 -12ft 2011 R36 -10ft 20 2011 Shoreline Modes Offshore – Very Fine Sand 10 Waterline – Fine Sand Backshore – Medium Sand 0 10 100 1000 10000 Grain Size (µm) (Olsen, 1989) (Hearin, 2011) Beach Modal State
Determined using Dimensionless Fall Velocity (Dean Number)
Ω = Hb / T Ws
where:
Hb - breaking wave height T - wave period
Ws - sediment fall velocity (Jimenez & Madsen, 2003)
Modal State may be used to predict and quantify impact of beach nourishment on the surfing wave environment.
(Wright & Short, 1984) (Benedet L. , Finkl, Campbell, & Klein, 2004) (Benedet, Pierro, & Henriquez, 2007) (Wright & Short, 1984) (Benedet L. , Finkl, Campbell, & Klein, 2004) Modal Beach State (Benedet, Pierro, & Henriquez, 2007)
Modal Beach Description Ω State < 1 Reflective surging breakers, constant wave reflection, no bars, steep beach profiles, coarse to medium sediment, narrow surf zones
2 Intermediate- surging to plunging breakers, cellular circulation with rip reflective currents, variable beach profiles, medium to coarse sediment 3 Intermediate plunging breakers, cellular circulation with rip currents, variable beach profiles, medium sediment
4 Intermediate plunging breakers, cellular circulation with rip currents, variable beach profiles, medium sediment
5 Intermediate- plunging to spilling breakers, cellular circulation with rip currents, dissipative variable beach profiles, medium to fine sediment > 6 Dissipative spilling breakers, multiple low relief bars, flat beach profiles, fine to very fine sediment, wide surf zones North Reach Modal Beach States 16 15 Composite Shoreline Composite Fill Port Channel (1994 sample) 14 Composite Fill Cape AFS (1994 sample) 13
) Composite Fill Canaveral Shoals II (1998 sample) Ω 12 Composite Fill Cape AFS (2003 sample) 11 10 9 8 Dissipative 7 Ω > 6 6 5 4 Intermediate Dimensionless Fall Velocity ( Velocity Fall Dimensionless 3 6 > Ω > 1 2 1 0 Reflective
Ω < 1
1971 1977 1989 1993 1994 1998 2001 2005 2010 2011 1986 1992 1995 2005 2007
Date Surfing Wave Parameter Analysis
• Dally wave transformation and breaking algorithm (Dally, 1992)
• 6 year synthetic wave data set (Surfbreak Eng, 2008)
• 9 survey profiles at R-36 from 2000 to 2010 (FDEP, 2011) • Breaker height and depth • Surf zone width • Sea bed slope
• Breaker type over barred profiles (Smith & Kraus, 1990) • 3 Tidal datums (MLLW, MSL, MHHW)
® • Coded in Matlab adapted from Klug (Klug, 2010) North Reach R36 Mean and Std Dev of Surf Zone Widths 450
400
350
300
250 MLLW 200 MSL MHHW Surf Zone Width (ft) WidthZone Surf 150
100
50
0 Nov-00 Jan-01 Jun-04 Mar-05 Apr-05 May-06 Aug-07 Jul-08 Aug-10 Survey Profile North Reach Monument R36 Median Breakpoint at MLLW
15 MLLW
Nov-00 Pre Fill 10 Nov-00 SZW
Jan-01 Post Fill 5 Jan-01 SZW
0
-5
-10 Nov 2000 SZW = 220 ft Elevation Elevation (ft)NAVD88 Jan 2001 SZW = 170 ft -15
-20 0 100 200 300 400 500 600 700 800 900 1000 1100 1200 1300 1400 1500
Horizontal Station from Monument (ft) North Reach Monument R36 Median Breakpoint at MHHW
15 MHHW
Nov-00 Pre Fill 10 Nov-00 SZW
Jan-01 Post Fill 5 Jan-01 SZW
0
-5
-10 Nov 2000 SZW = 210 ft Elevation Elevation (ft)NAVD88 Jan 2001 SZW = 50 ft -15
-20 0 100 200 300 400 500 600 700 800 900 1000 1100 1200 1300 1400 1500
Horizontal Station from Monument (ft) North Reach Monument R36 Median Breakpoint at MLLW
15
MLLW
10 Nov-00 Pre Fill
5 Nov-00 SZW
Aug-10 0
Aug-10 SZW
-5
-10 Elevation (ft) NAVD88 (ft) Elevation Nov 2000 SZW = 220 ft Aug 2010 SZW = 210 ft -15
-20 0 100 200 300 400 500 600 700 800 900 1000 1100 1200 1300 1400 1500
Horizontal Station from Monument (ft) North Reach Monument R36 Median Breakpoint at MHHW
15
MHHW
10 Nov-00 Pre Fill
5 Nov-00 SZW
Aug-10 0
Aug-10 SZW
-5
-10 Elevation (ft) NAVD88 (ft) Elevation Nov 2000 SZW = 220 ft Aug 2010 SZW = 180 ft -15
-20 0 100 200 300 400 500 600 700 800 900 1000 1100 1200 1300 1400 1500
Horizontal Station from Monument (ft) North Reach R36 Breaker Type Distibutions at MLLW 110%
100%
90%
80%
70%
60% Collapsing/Surging
50% Plunging Distribution 40% Spilling
30%
20%
10%
0% Nov-00 Jan-01 Jun-04 Mar-05 Apr-05 May-06 Aug-07 Jul-08 Aug-10 Survey Profile North Reach R36 Breaker Type Distibutions at MSL 110%
100%
90%
80%
70%
60% Collapsing/Surging
50% Plunging Distribution 40% Spilling
30%
20%
10%
0% Nov-00 Jan-01 Jun-04 Mar-05 Apr-05 May-06 Aug-07 Jul-08 Aug-10 Survey Profile North Reach R36 Breaker Type Distibutions at MHHW 110%
100%
90%
80%
70%
60% Collapsing/Surging
50% Plunging Distribution 40% Spilling
30%
20%
10%
0% Nov-00 Jan-01 Jun-04 Mar-05 Apr-05 May-06 Aug-07 Jul-08 Aug-10 Survey Profile Impacts to Surfing Wave Environment
North Reach Pre Fill (Before 2001)
• Dissipative beach, flat profile, low sand bars • Wide surf zone width at all tides • Primarily low intensity spilling breakers at all tides • Occasional plunging breakers at higher tides • Favor longboard riders Impacts to Surfing Wave Environment
North Reach - Post Fill (2001 to 2008)
• Intermediate beach, steep profile, variable sand bars • Very tidal dependent surf zone width • Low intensity spilling breakers at lower tides • Plunging breakers at higher tides • Occasional collapsing breakers at highest tides • Very short rides at high tide favor shortboarders Impacts to Surfing Wave Environment
North Reach – 2008 to Present
• Finer updrift fill in 2007 & 2010 has returned beach to dissipative state • Surfing environment returning to pre fill conditions • Coarser fill from 2001 & 2005 still entering surf zone during high erosion events Coastal Protection
• North Reach Shore Protection Project and Canaveral Harbor Sand Bypass Project have increased the total shoreline volume of the North Reach by 2.16 million cubic yards and increased the shoreline position 90 -120 ft seaward of the pre fill values in 2000. (Olsen, 2010)
• The beaches in the North Reach are much wider with a healthier dune system than before the fill projects began in 2001.
• Beach nourishment projects must be considered a success from a coastal protection point of view. (Olsen, 2010) Goals
• Maintain the original nature of the beach in the North Reach
• Avoid future adverse impacts to the surfing wave environment in the North Reach Recommendation - 1
All future nourishments in the North Reach should adopt the flatter fill template (1:25) used for the Canaveral Harbor Sand Bypass Projects.
The flatter slope is a much better match for the natural slope of the seabed in the North Reach. Recommendation - 2
Use the Cape Canaveral Air Force Station borrow site for all future North Reach nourishment projects.
Cape Canaveral AFS borrow site has been shown to be a much better match for the native beach sediment of the North Reach. Recommendation - 3
Reconsider a permanent sand bypass system at Port Canaveral, an idea that has been under consideration for over 40 years (USACE, 1987).
• Promote a more natural flow of sediment into the North Reach littoral cell.
• Reduce the need for disruptive dredge and fill projects.
• Reduce negative impacts to the natural character of the beach and the surfing wave environment. Acknowledgements
Professor Lee Harris Ph.D., P.E. – Florida Tech Professor Gary Zarillo Ph.D., P.G. – Florida Tech Mike McGarry – Brevard County NRMO Stephanie Groleau – USACE Jacksonville Geoff Klug - USACE Jacksonville Justin Enjo - Manson Construction Elizabeth Kromhout - FDEP Eric Mitchell - Great Lakes Dredge & Dock
Presentation References
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Benedet, L., Finkl, C., Campbell, T., & Klein, A. (2004). Predicting the effect of beach nourishment and cross-shore sediment variation on beach morphodynamic assessment. Coastal Engineering , 839-861.
Benedet, L., Pierro, T., & Henriquez, M. (2007). Impacts of coastal engineering projects on the surfability of sandy beaches. Shore & Beach , Vol 75, No. 4, 3-20.
Brevard County NRMO. (2011, June). Beach Restoration Projects. Retrieved from Brevard County Natural Resources Management: http://www.brevardcounty.us/natres/beaches/restoration_projects.cfm
Brevard County NRMO. (2008-2009). Brevard County Dune Restoration As Built Sample Logs. Melbourne, FL: Brevard County.
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Presentation References
FDEP. (2011). Beaches and Coastal Systems Rules & Statutes. Retrieved from http://www.dep.state.fl.us/beaches/rules.htm
FDEP. (Dec 2004). Brevard County Shore Protection Project - South Reach, Permit # 0137212-005- JC. Tallahassee, FL:
FDEP. (1994). Canaveral Sand Bypass Project - Borrow Area. Tallahassee, FL: FDEP Bureau of Beaches and Coastal Systems.
FDEP. (Nov 2004). Joint Coastal Permit: Canaveral Port Authority, Canaveral Harbor Bypassing. Tallahassee: FDEP.
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Google Earth. (2010). Retrieved 2010
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Presentation References
Klug, G. (2010). Quantifying the Effects of Beach Nourishment on Surfing Climate in Brevard County, Florida. Melbourne, FL: Florida Institute of Technology.
Koch, J. L., Forrest, B. M., & Brantly, R. M. (2011). Sand Search and Fill Material QA/QC Plans for Beach Nourishment Projects in Florida. Retrieved from FDEP Bureau of Beaches and Coastal Systems.
Olsen. (2010). Breavrd County FL North Reach 5-year Post-Construction Physical Monitoring Report . Jacksonville, FL: Olsen Associates Inc.
Olsen. (1989). Sand Source Analyses for Beach Restoration Brevard County, FL. Jacksonville, FL: Olsen Associates.
Smith, E. R., & Kraus, N. C. (1990). Laboratory Study on Macro-Features of Wave Breaking over Bars and Artificial Reefs CERC-90-12. Vicksburg, MS: US Army Corps of Engineers .
Stauble, D. K. (1991). Native Beach Assessment Techniques for Beach Fill Design. Vicksburg, MS: US Army Corps of Engineers.
Surfbreak Engineering. (2008). Development of a Nearshore Synthetic Wave Record for Brevard County, Florida. Winter Park, FL: Brevard County.
Surfrider Foundation. (2010, 3 31). Who We Are. Retrieved 3 31, 2010, from Surfrider Foundation web site: www.surfrider.org Presentation References
USACE. (1996). Brevard County Florida Shore Protection Projects Feasibility Report. Jacksonville, FL: US Army Corps of Engineers.
USACE. (2006). Brevard County, FL Mid Reach Shore Protection GRR Appendix E. Jacksonville, FL: US Army Corps of Engineers.
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USACE. (2003). Canaveral Harbor Sand Bypass Borrow Area Boring Logs. Jacksonville, FL: US Army Corps of Engineers.
USACE. (1992). Canaveral Harbor Sand Bypass System. Jacksonville, FL: US Army Corps of Engineers.
USACE. (2007). Coastal Engineering Manual. Washington, D.C.: U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.
USACE. (2011). ERDC Topographic Engineering Center. Virginia.
Weggel, J. R. (1972). Maximum Breaker Height. Journal of Waterways, Harbours, Coastal Engineering , 529-548.
Wright, L. D., & Short, A. D. (1984). Morhodynamic Variability of Surf Zones and Beaches: A Synthesis. Marine Geology , 93-118.