Bhutan: Himalayan Fortress of the Gods

3 OCT – 17 OCT 2014 Code: 21436

Tour Leaders Assoc. Prof. Alex McKay

Physical Ratings

Renowned Himalayan specialist Dr Alex McKay introduces us to the remote and visually dramatic kingdom of including Tiger's Nest and the Tangbi Mani & 's Tsechu festivals.

Overview 2016 Departure

Bhutan: Himalayan Fortress of the Gods with Dr Alex McKay: 7 - 22 Oct 2016

This tour is limited to 16 participants

Tour Highlights

Join renowned Himalayan specialist Dr Alex McKay to learn about the visually dramatic kingdom of Bhutan Attend the Tangbi Mani Festival, an authentic village carnival, and view the spectacular masked dances at Thimphu's Tsechu Festival Visit stunningly beautiful Buddhist fortress- (dzongs) covered with richly coloured paintings and textiles Learn about the intricate meanings and unique production techniques of Bhutanese textiles and other crafts Travel through a landscape in which prayers from prayer flags and wheels fly out across the mountain landscape to subjugate demons Enjoy talks by some of Bhutan's most interesting scholars, creative writers and politicians View Bhutan's unique flora and fauna at Lamperi Botanical Park and Takin Nature Reserve Conclude with a walk (or horse ride) to one of the great Himalayan sights, the extraordinarily vertiginous 'Tiger's Nest' monastery.

15 days in Bhutan

Overnight Thimphu (2 nights) • (1 night) • Bumthang (4 nights) • (1 night) • Wangdi (1 night) • Thimphu (2 nights) • Paro (3 nights)

Overview

Renowned Himalayan specialist Dr Alex McKay, a former London University lecturer with many years experience of this spectacular region, introduces us to the remote and visually dramatic kingdom of Bhutan. Tour highlights include two contrasting festivals, both extraordinarily colourful celebrations of Bhutan's Tibetan Buddhist culture. Tangbi Mani Festival is a local carnival that opens with a joyous purifying fire ritual, before dancing costumed monks celebrate local history and identity. The spectacular masked dances at Thimpu's Tsechu Festival are the culmination of the traditional Bhutanese year, attracting the royal family, as well as bejewelled pilgrims from across the land, all displaying their finest woven robes. We'll learn about these brilliant, intricately patterned fabrics at the National and you'll admire unique weavings throughout your journey, as well as exploring ancient fortress-monasteries (dzongs) like the grand Punakha, Trongza Dzongs, and smaller temples (lhakangs) including the atmospheric Chimi and Kyichu Lhakangs. Constructing these sacred centres signified 's triumph over primal nature spirits and their brilliantly coloured wall paintings, textile hangings, prayer wheels and large golden Buddhas will enthral you. We'll study their creation at Thimphu's School of Traditional Crafts, see exquisite paper made at a local workshop, and enjoy a country walk to view priceless historical folk artefacts at the remarkable Ugyenchholing Palace. We'll cross awesome mountain passes, where shrines draped with prayer flags stand out against deep forests and towering snow-capped peaks, enjoy local markets, visit farm houses and stroll in verdant countryside. With ASA you will gain unparalleled access to Bhutan's relaxed and hospitable people, enjoying talks by some of their most interesting scholars, creative writers and politicians, and

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meeting children at a rural primary school. View Bhutan's unique flora and fauna at Lamperi Botanical Park and Takin Nature Reserve, and after a walk (or horse ride) to one of the great Himalayan sights, the extraordinarily vertiginous 'Tiger's Nest' monastery, we'll return home laden with precious purchases, countless stunning photographs, and a deep understanding of this unique culture.

Guest Lecturers

Alex McKay and a number of guest speakers will be giving lectures during the course of the tour. These will greatly enhance your understanding of the religion and culture of Bhutan. Guest Speakers (to be confirmed in 2014) include:

Karma Phuntsho is the world's foremost Bhutan scholar working outside the country. Once a Buddhist priest, Karma gained his D.Phil. from Balliol College, Oxford, has been a visiting scholar at Harvard and researcher at CNRS, Paris. He spends half his year at the Department of Social Anthropology, University of Cambridge, and the other six months in Bhutan. Karma Phuntsho, who has written widely on Bhutanese religion and culture, will present to you extraordinary, intimate encounters with this stunning country and its fascinating people and their culture. Karma first joined ASA in 2008 as lecturer for Bhutan: Himalayan Fortress of the Gods. Lecture 1: Capturing the Thunder Dragon in its historical and cultural place; Lecture 2: Buddhism I: The Fundamentals of Buddhism and its Various Expressions; Lecture 3: Buddhism II: Understanding the colourful Tantric Buddhism; Lecture 4: The Journeys of the Thunder Dragon: Where Next? Ashe Kunzang Choden is a prominent woman in Bhutan and the country's foremost writer. Lecture: The Role of Women in Bhutanese Society Françoise Pommaret is a French ethno-historian and Tibetologist. She holds the position of Director of research at the CNRS. Her work focuses on Bhutan. She is presently working as an adviser to the institute of language and culture studies (ILCS), Royal University of Bhutan. Lecture: Bhutanese Textiles Tashi Wangyal is a Cambridge Graduate, economist and now a member of the National Council involved in educational projects. Lecture: Bhutan's social and political realities and GNH.

Acknowledgement

This tour of Bhutan owes much to the inspired input of Blue Poppy Tours and Karma Phuntsho who helped in the design and writing of this program. ASA wishes to gratefully acknowledge their work.

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Leaders Assoc. Prof. Alex McKay

Seasoned traveller & well-published scholar from London’s School of Oriental & African Studies, Alex enriches ASA Bhutan, Silk Road, North & Moroccan tours with profound experience & insights.

Associate Professor Alex McKay has been interested in Asia since he travelled there overland, becoming a relief worker in northern Bangladesh during the famines and smallpox epidemics of the early 1970s. Since then he has spent around six years travelling and researching in India and its Asian neighbours. Much of his published work concerns , which he first visited when it opened to Western travellers in 1984, and in 1986 he was one of the first Europeans to cross the newly-opened border (the world’s highest) between Pakistan and China en route to Kashgar and Central Asia.

After funding his travels working on North Sea oil rigs and as a private investigator in Sydney, Alex's love of the region finally led him to study South and Central Asian history and culture at the School of Oriental and African Studies (London University), where he obtained a BA (Hons.) in Religious Studies and History and PhD in South Asian History (1995). Much of that time was spent on fieldwork in the Himalayas and in the National Archives in New Delhi, where he lived for a year. Dr McKay subsequently became a Lecturer in South Asian history and a research fellow at both the University of London (SOAS & UCL) and the International Institute for Asian Studies in Leiden (the Netherlands). He remains a visiting fellow at the Namgyal Institute of Tibetology in Sikkim and the ANU in Canberra. He has published extensively, given more than 50 seminar and conference papers in a dozen countries, and organised academic conferences in several locations, notably Bhutan and Sikkim (India). In 2006 he took early retirement to return to Australia, where he lives in the Manning Valley (NSW) with his artist wife, and he has recently completed a history of the multi-faith pilgrimage to Mount Kailas in western Tibet.

Alex has travelled in many remote corners of Asia, and his interests have always been in the actual world of the people there, rather than in Western academic theories. He enjoys the fact that his works are widely read by the peoples of the Himalayas and he maintains friendships there with people from all ranges of society.

Alex has also travelled extensively in the Arab and Islamic worlds, and has led ASA tours not only to Bhutan (2009, 2011 & 2014), Tibet (2010), and the Silk Road (2011, 2013) but also to Morocco (2014). Alex’s specific interests in South and Central Asia are wide but centre around the frontiers between different regional cultures and their adaptations to environment and use of space. In Central Asia he has been particularly interested in the history of religions, the famous Kyrgz epic Manas, and the “Great Game”, the much romanticised struggle between Russia and the British for control over the Central Asian and Himalayan approaches to India. His interests in Morocco centre on its colonial history, its Berber minority, and its Islamic religion.

His publications have mostly concerned the colonial encounter between East and West, particularly in the political, personal, and medical spheres; Buddhist, Hindu, Sikh, Islamic, and local tribal religious culture – particularly pilgrimage and asceticism; the early history of tribes and migrations; as well as modern sports and pastimes – with his most requested article being on football in Tibet! He remains a keen supporter of

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the Bhutanese football team.

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Itinerary The itinerary below provides an outline of the proposed daily program. Participants should note that the daily activities described in this itinerary may be rotated and/or modified in order to accommodate changes in museum opening hours, flight schedules etc. All meals (including tea and coffee) are included in the tour price and are indicated in the itinerary where: B=breakfast, L=lunch and D=evening meal. Bottled water is also included. All entrance fees and permits are included in the tour price.

Thimphu - 2 nights Day 1: Friday 3 October, Bangkok – Paro – Thimphu Fly Bangkok – Paro Bhutan’s National Museum, Paro Tamchhog Lhakhang Buddha Point Memorial Chorten, Thimphu

Paro, situated in a beautiful valley, is a fitting introduction to Bhutan. It has been the first main port of call for foreign visitors since the days when two Portuguese Jesuits arrived here in the early seventeenth century and, in one of the holiest valleys of Bhutan, built a church and vainly tried to establish a mission there. In contrast to their failure, Buddhist missionaries from Tibet flourished here. The wide valley of Paro is today strewn with temples and monuments that are the legacy of these early Buddhists.

After clearing immigration and customs we commence our tour with a morning visit to Bhutan’s National Museum. This was previously housed in the Ta Dzong (watch tower) built on top of the hill above the giant to defend Rinpung Dzong and the Paro valley during times of war, in an unusual circular construction resembling a conch shell. Unfortunately, an earthquake in September 2011 damaged the Ta Dzong and the contents of the museum were moved to a neighbouring building. You can still see a magnificent collection of Bhutanese artefacts – costumes, religious paintings, arms, textiles and a

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fascinating collection of Bhutan stamps. The National Museum is due to reopen in the Ta Dzong in 2015.

After lunch we drive along the Paro and Thimphu river valleys to Thimphu, Bhutan’s capital. We shall stop along the way to view the magnificent Tamchhog Lhakhang, the hereditary place of worship for Bhutan’s iron bridge builder, Thangtong Gyalpo. At the river crossing, visitors can walk across a suspension bridge made with the original iron chains of the famous bridge builder, and evoke a spiritual connection with this saint. In the temple one can also find wall paintings and a statue of his chief heir, disciple and biographer Dewa Zangpo in the temple.

Just outside Thimphu, we make a brief stop at Buddha Point where sitting up high on a mountainside overlooking Thimphu Valley is a new statue of Buddha Sakyamuni. At 61m tall, this imposing image is intended to bestow blessings, peace and happiness on the world. Constructed in China, the statue was transported overland in sections to its current position which was once the site of Changri Phodrang, the palace of the thirteenth Desi Druk, or secular ruler of Bhutan. The seated Buddha’s body and lotus is 42m tall and the throne upon which the Buddha sits is almost 19m high. The statue is constructed of bronze and steel and is gilded in gold. The interior of the Buddha’s body and lotus are filled with 100,000 20cm-tall replica Buddha statues and the walls of the meditation halls, located inside the throne, have a further 25,000 30cm statues. Note: This site is nearing completion and we hope will be finished by the time of our visit.

Thimphu, which lies at an elevation of 2316m on the banks of the Thimphu river, was until the late 1970s no more than a tiny settlement dominated by Tashicho Dzong in the midst of terraced fields. It is now a small city, but most of its urban fabric has been designed carefully to accord with a national style. The heights of buildings are restricted and all are roofed with deep eaves that overhang their white walls. Old wooden houses stand next to concrete buildings that nevertheless respect traditional styles.

On arrival in Thimphu we visit the Memorial Chorten, also known as the Thimphu Chorten. Built in 1974 to honour the 3rd King of Bhutan, (1928–1972), it is a prominent landmark in the city with its golden spires and bells. In 2008, it underwent extensive renovation. Today it is popularly known as “the most visible religious landmark in Bhutan”. It was consecrated by Dudjom . This chorten () is unlike other chortens as it does not enshrine the mortal remains of the King. Only the King’s photo in a ceremonial dress adorns a hall in the ground floor. The King when he was alive wanted to build “a chorten to represent the mind of the Buddha”.

In the early evening we shall join the colourful throng of Thimphu’s citizens attired in their national dress and walk around its busy shops and bazaars. (Overnight Thimphu) LD

Day 2: Saturday 4 October, Thimphu Thimphu’s Tsechu Festival Changangkha Temple Handmade Paper Factory Weekly Market

We shall begin today by visiting Thimphu’s Tsechu Festival, which is held in the courtyard of the . This is the main Secretariat Building, where the Government ministries, the office of His Majesty the King, the throne room, and the living quarters of the monk body and its Chief Abbot are housed. You will see locals dressed in their finest clothes who have walked from miles around to attend the festivities. They come to watch masked dances, to pray, and to feast. While the underlying purpose of the festival is spiritual, dances are more often like plays, telling stories where good triumphs over evil, or depicting

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significant historical events, especially surrounding the life of Bhutan’s patron saint, (also known as Guru Rinpoche). There is inevitably a great deal of socialising as well. The festival provides an opportunity for people to relax and forget the daily routine, and to dress in their finest clothes and jewellery, but it is also an occasion for prayer and blessings.

After lunch, we visit the Changangkha Temple perched on the hilltop overlooking the town. Devotees flock to the temple throughout the day to circumambulate and turn the prayer wheels. The temple also contains beautiful wall paintings and hundreds of religious scriptures written in gold.

Across the river we visit the Handmade Paper Factory. Here you will have the opportunity to see artisans producing paper in the traditional way, incorporating local wildflowers and other delicate items into the paper. You will have a chance to purchase some of this paper, should you wish, in the small shop attached to the building.

Our program concludes today with a visit to the weekly market, where we can see a variety of foods and artisan work including textiles. Here Bhutanese from remoter areas come into town to sell products ranging from yak butter to wooden bowls. Unlike many Asian markets, there is no tradition of bargaining here. (Overnight Thimphu) BLD

Wangdi - 1 night Day 3: Sunday 5 October, Thimphu – Dochu La Pass – Wangdi Dochu-La Pass The Royal Botanical Park at Lamperi

This morning we leave Thimphu and continue east climbing steeply through oak, pine and rhododendron forests to the Dochu-La Pass, at 3,140 metres. Here we will stop for a hot drink below the modern “Victory temple”, with its spectacular panoramic views of the Eastern Himalaya ranges along Bhutan’s northern border. In the foreground, the snow is inflected by the soft green of wild herbs and forest trees. We then continue east towards Punakha.

En-route we visit The Royal Botanical Park at Lamperi which includes examples of Easter Himalayan Yew and over 40 species of rhododendron. An easy walking track allows us to view the park’s rich natural biodiversity. The route leads into a cool moist forest of huge oak, magnolia and birch trees draped in moss that rings with the sound of birds and insects. The park is also a sanctuary to Royal Bengal Tiger, Musk Deer, Red Panda, Himalayan Monal Pheasants and Blood Pheasants (although most of these are hard to catch sight of on a casual visit!).

This afternoon we visit the imposing Punakha Dzong. In 1667, Shabdrung built Punakha Dzong at the junction of Phochu and Mochu rivers to serve as the religious and administrative centre of Bhutan. It is the winter seat of the (Chief Abbot) and the Central Monk Body. Punakha Dzong houses many sacred temples including the Machen where the embalmed body of Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal lies in state. Damaged four times by fire in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth century, and by an earthquake in 1897, the dzong was completely restored by the previous King.

Tonight we stay outside the village of Wangdi, once considered Bhutan’s second capital, it commands a strategic central location in Bhutan. In June 2012, the village tragically lost the Wangdi Phodrang Dzong to a terrible fire. A gateway to eastern Bhutan, the dzong was built in 1638 by the nation’s founder, Zhabdrung

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Ngawang Namgyal, and was among several fortress-monasteries constructed to help gain control of, and unify, the country. It will take many years to rebuild. (Overnight Wangdi) BLD

Bumthang - 4 nights Day 4: Monday 6 October, Wangdi – Trongsa – Bumthang Chendebji Chorten Yathra Weaving Centre, Zungney Village, Chummey Dzong, Bumthang

This morning we depart Wangdi and travel east towards Trongsa. The road winds along the slopes up and down the Pelela pass, which in ancient days marked the border between western and eastern Bhutan. The road follows for the most part the east-west route, which is full of ancient legends. We break our journey with a tea stop in Chendebji where we will visit the chorten (stupa) modelled on Swayambhunath Chorten in Kathmandu and built in the nineteenth century by Shida.

Following lunch in Trongsa, we drive for two hours through some of Bhutan’s most beautiful landscapes to the valleys of Bumthang and Chummey. The Yutongla pass (3500m), which separates the valley of Trongsa from Bumthang, affords superb views back over the Trongsa Valley. The valleys of Bumthang and Chummey are considered the heart of the famous Bumthang yathra-weaving region. Here in the village of Zungney we visit the Yathra Weaving Centre. Yathra is the name for the locally produced hand-woven woolen cloth. Distinctive patterns and bright, earthy colours enliven the fabric, which is used for a wide variety of purposes and sought after throughout Bhutan. We may also be shown the vegetable dye techniques for dyeing wool.

Bumthang is made up of four small valleys, which constitute the spiritual heartland of Bhutan and are shrouded in religious legend. Small temples that are associated with tales of Guru Rinpoche dot its hills. The sacred Jampa and Kurje monasteries (where bodily marks of Guru Rimpoche are etched onto the rock) are located here. Bumthang is also the traditional home of the great Buddhist teacher whose descendants were the ancestors of the present dynasty.

In the late afternoon we visit , which occupies a picturesque location overlooking the Chokhor valley. Jakar Dzong (‘Fortress of the White Bird’) was constructed in 1667. Its foundation myth describes how a group of in the area were searching for a suitable site for the new dzong when they saw a white bird circle overhead before settling on the top of a hill. This was considered a good omen, and the hill was selected as the site for the dzong. Chokhor claims to be the first place in Bhutan that Guru Rinpoche visited. As the region’s lord subsequently converted to Buddhism, Chokhor is accorded the title of the birthplace of . One of most venerated and accomplished teachers of the school of Buddhism, Pema Lingpa, established his main seat of Tamshing in Chokhor valley. (Overnight Bumthang) BLD

Day 5: Tuesday 7 October, Bumthang Tangbi Mani Festival Jampa Lhakhang

This morning, a special highlight of the tour, is our visit together with lots of villagers to the festival in Tangbi Mani monastery. We will see an amazing sight – a purification ritual in which monks set fire to

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haystacks in the field and devotees run through the flames to cleanse themselves of their sins and ensure good luck for the coming year – something to watch with wonder but perhaps not to essay! Here too we will see masked dancers representing animals, demons and heroes and be captivated by the sound of cymbals, drums and horns along with the unforgettable chanting of the Buddhist monks. Arrays of colourful brocades whirl through the air as the dancers spin and dance the “thunderbolt step”. Watch for the Atsara or clown. This dancer, unique in his own style, mimics the other dancers and entertains onlookers. Festival deities are invoked through benediction and luck is increased and misfortune banished. An unforgettable experience!

This afternoon we visit Jampa Lhakhang and Kurjey Lhakhang. Legend claims that Jampa Lhakhang temple was one of 108 monasteries built in one day throughout the provinces of Tibet and Bhutan by the Tibetan King in the seventh century. The central shrine contains a large or Jampa statue, after which the temple is named. There are a couple of other temples, including a temple dedicated to Guru Rinpoche. The foundation of the temple and the around indicate the presence of very fine masonry in ancient Bhutan.

Kurjey is one of the most important sacred sites in Bhutan as it is where Guru Rinpoche meditated and left the imprint (jey) of his body (ku) on a rock. The complex here consists of three temples which all face south. The first temple was built on the rock upon which Guru Rinpoche meditated and has two separate sanctuaries, the lower of which contains the sacred jey, although the cave is blocked by a statue. The second temple houses a monumental representation of the Guru, as well as some particularly fine paintings. A third temple was built in 1990, along with 108 small chortens which, together with the three temples for a three dimensional which follows the pattern set by the Samye Monastery in Tibet. (Overnight Bumthang) BLD

Day 6: Wednesday 8 October, Bumthang – Tang Valley – Bumthang Local Primary School Tang valley Ugyenchholing Palace & Museum

This morning we drive two hours out of Bumthang into one of Bhutan’s most remote valleys, the spectacular Tang Valley. On the way we will pass Drangchel, the birthplace of Pema Lingpa, among other picturesque villages and temples. This valley also retains many of its old traditions and you may see women wearing a black sheepskin on their back, which serves as coat, rain jacket and cushion all in one.

En-route we pay a short visit to a local primary school, an opportunity not only for us to meet some local children but also for them to meet us! You may be offered the chance to briefly teach a senior class proficient in English; something about your own country would be an ideal topic. Note: If you wish to contribute books, pens etc to the school or to make a financial donation, that would obviously be very welcome, but it is not expected or required and please do not feel you have to. ASA will make a presentation on behalf of us all!

Our final destination, in the Tang Valley, is the Ugyenchholing Palace & Museum. A pleasant walk takes us to this site that originated as a monastery as early as the fourteenth century, when the saint Dorje Lingpa decided to settle here. The palace we see today replaced the monastery in the mid-nineteenth century. The builder of this structure was Tshokye Dorje, the Trongsa , the fifteenth blood descendent of Dorje Lingpa to be born here. There are a number of buildings preserved on this site, despite a damaging earthquake in 1897, among them the jookhang, which contains two temples with some exceptional paintings. The palace is still privately owned and its owners have set up the Museum of History and Life of

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Ugyenchholing. This provides a fascinating insight into the life of Bhutanese aristocracy in time gone by; the religious dance costumes housed here are particularly interesting. (Overnight Bumthang) BLD

Day 7: Thursday 9 October, Bumthang – Ura Valley – Bumthang Farmhouse lunch, Ura Village Sumthrang Lhakhang Membar Tsho (weather permitting)

Bhutanese villages usually occupy sites on the slopes of mountains, overlooking terraced rice fields and fast- flowing rivers, their isolation emphasized by the wild terrain and the absence of vehicles. A typical village contains several residential buildings, a lhakhang (village temple), some small shops and a bar, all arranged in an arbitrary fashion. Around the lhakhang there are prayer wheels, and in strategic places about the village there are tall poles for the prayer flags. Each time the wheel turns or the flag flaps in the wind, a prayer flies out to the gods.

The farmhouses in the villages, modelled of the schema of a dzong, are often three-storeyed and surprisingly large. The ground floor, which is often flooded during periods of heavy rain, shelters the animals during the cold winter months. The first floor, reached by a stair cut from a tree trunk, holds the family’s living quarters. This domestic area is generally made up of three to five sparsely furnished living rooms and a large smoke-filled kitchen with a fireplace but no chimney. The top, storage floor under the roof is open. The lower walls are composed of rammed earth in western Bhutan, and of stone in the centre and the east. The upper walls are made up of wattle and daub held together by a timber frame. The second, domestic, floor has elaborately decorated windows modelled on those of the dzongs. The craftsmen who build and decorate these houses have often worked on the construction of dzongs and translate their knowledge to local domestic architecture. The upper floor is open, in order to allow the summer harvest that is stored here to dry; the roof is supported by posts.

This morning we make an excursion to Ura village. Ura valley is about one and a half hour’s drive from Bumthang and is the home of some ancient religious families from which most of the Bhutanese elite are descended. Some people still call it Urbay, ‘the hidden valley of Ogyen or Guru Rinpoche’. At an altitude of 3200m, the valley is covered with forests of pine, spruce, bamboo, larch, rhododendrons, fir and juniper where wildlife such as bears, boars, red pandas, wolves and Bengal tigers roam. The main village is one of the largest villages in Bhutan with some forty clustered houses and 400 residents. Apart from the health centre, school and the electric poles and wires, the village still bears a medieval look similar to what is described in a fourteenth century Tibetan travelogue and can be seen in photos taken in the early twentieth century. We will stop at one of the oldest farmhouse in the village to explore traditional Bhutanese domestic architecture in Bumthang and try some buckwheat pancakes for which the area is famous.

After lunch we will stroll through the village along its cobbled paths to visit the temple and experience some of its idyllic village life. We shall also make a brief visit to the nearby village of Sumthrang, home to the Sumthrang Lhakhang, a 13th century monastery founded by Gyelwa Lhanangp. The two trees near the entrance of the monastery flower every January. These trees are believed to have been the result of a walking stick placed there by the founder of the monastery.

Mid-afternoon we return to Bumthang stopping on the way (weather permitting) to visit Membar Tsho ‘the Flaming Lake’, one of Bhutan’s most important pilgrimage sites, where sacred scriptures hidden by Guru Rimpoche in the eighth century were reputedly recovered by Pema Lingpa in the fifteenth century. (Overnight Bumthang) BLD

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Trongsa - 1 night Day 8: Friday 10 October, Bumthang – Trongsa Trongsa Ta Dzong Short hike along the Mangdue Foot Trail

This morning we journey to Trongsa, the gateway to central Bhutan. Trongsa (meaning ‘new village’ in ) is located in the Mangdue district. On arrival we visit the Trongsa Ta Dzong Museum which was inaugurated by his Majesty in December 2008. Located above the dzong, on the mountainside, the large watchtower, called ‘Ta Dzong’, once guarded the dzong from invaders. The museum focuses on the history of the monarchy, which had its cradle in Trongsa and the history of the .

After visiting the museum, we shall take a short hike along the Mangdue Foot Trail from just below Trongsa Dzong to the viewpoint on the other side of the valley. This is a leisurely-paced walk descending the historic “Thomadrak”, a cliff, before crossing the traditional cantilevered bridge over Mangdue Chhu River and continuing through a forest of Oak and Rhododendron and other broad leaf forest vegetation to emerge by the viewpoint to the dzong.

At the conclusion of our short walk we drive to the Raven Crown Resort where we spend the night. Located 13kms from Trongsa village, this resort commands a marvelous view of the dzong across the valley. (Overnight Trongsa) BLD

Punakha - 1 night Day 9: Saturday 11 October, Trongsa – Punakha Trongsa Dzong (Temple of Fertility)

Set amidst incredibly spectacular scenery, Trongsa Dzong commands the eye from miles away. The first temple was built here in 1543 by the Drukpa lama, Ngagi Wangchuk, who was the great-grandfather of Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyel, unifier of Bhutan. Shabdrung, appreciating the strategic site of Trongsa, built the dzong in 1644, which became the seat of power of the Wangchuck dynasty before they became rulers of Bhutan in 1907. An heir to the throne today becomes the Penlop (governor) of Trongsa before being named Crown Prince and eventually King. Built on a mountain spur high above the gorges of the Mangdue Chhu, the dzong controlled Bhutan’s east-west trade for centuries. The only road connecting eastern and western Bhutan (the precursor to the modern ), passed through the courtyard of the dzong. At the command of the Penlop the massive doors could be shut, dividing the country in two.

Following this visit we travel back over the Pele La pass to the fertile valley of Punakha, which has a temperate climate and is well-watered by the Phochu (male) and Mochu (female) rivers.

Ten kilometres from Punakha near a village called Sopsokha, we take a pleasant walk for half an hour or so across terraced fields to see Chimi Lhakhang (Temple of Fertility), built in the fifteenth century by the ‘Divine Madman’ (Lama Drukpa Kunley) who visited Bhutan many times in the fifteenth century. Epitomising ‘crazy wisdom’, Drukpa Kunley combined high philosophical and spiritual thinking with unconventional manners and is revered as a saint who subdued many evil spirits in Bhutan. He is also remembered as a strong critic of social and religious institutions. Today, Bhutanese people have built a popular image of Drukpa Kunley as sex-king and fertility god. For this reason, people from as far as America come to Chimi Lhakhang to pray for a child. (Overnight Punakha) BLD

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Thimphu - 2 nights Day 10: Sunday 12 October, Punakha – Thimphu Takin Reserve Tashichho Dzong Archery Demonstration Craft Bazaar outside Taj Hotel Terton Art Gallery

This morning we return to Thimphu. On arrival we shall drive up to the Radio Tower, which offers splendid views of the city from a hilltop festooned with prayer flags, and visit the Takin Reserve, where we’ll see the unique national animal, the Takin, a goat-antelope found in heavily forested areas of the Eastern Himalayas.

Next we make a short return visit to the inner courtyard of the Tashichho Dzong. The main structure of the white-washed building is two-storied with three-storied towers at each of the four corners topped by triple- tiered golden roofs. There is also a large central tower or utse.

We shall also attend a short archery demonstration. Archery was declared the national sport in 1971, when Bhutan became a member of the United Nations. Previously, competitions were held only at dzongkhag (administrative district) and gewog (group of villages) levels, however today archery tournaments and competitions are held throughout the country especially on government holidays and weekends.

Our afternoon program concludes with a visit to the Crafts Bazaar located outside the Taj Hotel. Currently many handicraft products, which visitors think are Bhutanese, are actually imported from India and . The Crafts Bazaar, is a relatively new project, initiated by the Government in 2010, where traders are allowed to sell only genuine Bhutanese handicrafts.

Early this evening, we visit the Terton Art Gallery. Opened in 2011, the gallery displays a range of contemporary art, photography and a selection of finely crafted Buddhist boxes and tables. (Overnight Thimphu) BLD

Day 11: Monday 13 October, Thimphu Morning at leisure with optional excursion to the School of the Thirteen Arts and Crafts National Textile Museum Traditional Institute of Medicine

This morning will be at leisure for you to further explore the eminently walkable centre of Thimphu. Alternatively you may wish to join an excursion to visit the Tango Monastery located approximately 14kms from Thimphu. The trail traverses mountain rainforest and takes about one hour and a half hours to reach the monastery.

The word Tango literally means ‘horse head’ and is derived from the deity Tandin (Hayagriva) that features the head of a horse. The revered place of Hayagriva was first recognized by Guru Rinpoche in the eighth century. In 1222 A.D. Phajo Drugom Zhigpo visited the place and while he was involved in his teachings in Dodeyna, he heard the neighing of a horse approaching from the direction of Tango. On approaching the place, to his surprise he saw a cliff, believed to be the body of the deity Tandin, engulfed in flames. The deity appeared before him in person and prophesied that Phajo would build a meditation centre at Tango,

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marry the , Khando Sonam Peldon and lay the foundations for the Drukpa School in Bhutan.

The present day monastery was built in 1689 by Gyalsay Tenzin Rabgyal at the age of 51. Gyalsay Tenzin Rabgyal was adopted by Zhabdrung and was ordained in the monk body. He was trained in both monastic and secular systems of governance in order to succeed Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel. Thus he was known as Gyalsay – “the Heart Son”. He was addressed as Gyaltshab, representative of Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel in the year 1650 and later in 1672 he was known as Thri or Ti Rinpoche. Tenzin Rabgye was enthroned as the 4th Desi in 1680 and passed away in 1696 at the age of fifty-nine and it is believed that the statues shed tears at the time of his passing. Still today these tears can be traced out on the wall paintings while visiting the dzong. There is a stupa known as Kudung chorten where his ashes are kept.

The sandalwood trees found are supposed to be the walking sticks of Phajo. The chorten (stupa), found beside the cypress trees is the place where Khando Sonam Peldon attained enlightenment. At the time of enlightenment she left behind all her belongings. The chorten was used to house them. Phajo after his meditation also built a small temple known as Tandin Nye.

In 1966 the 64th Chief Abbot of Bhutan Jamyang Yeshey Singye and Her Royal Highness the late Queen Ashi appointed Lam Tenzin Dhendup as the first head of the meditation centre of Tango. Later His Holiness Dujom Rinpoche visited the place on an invitation from the Queen mother Ashi Phuntsho Choden. The 69th Chief Abbot Geshey Geden Rinchen served as the head of the meditation centre for around twelve years and renovated the old dismantled portion of the Utse with assistance from the Queen mother Ashi . His Holiness Dilgo Khentse Rinpoche was invited for the consecration ceremony. The monastery was renovated in 1977 by her Majesty the Queen Mother Ashi Kesang Choden Wangchuck. In the middle of the courtyard there is a natural spring which flows throughout the year. In 1986 under the command of the 4th King Jigme Singye Wangchuk, the renovation project for the dzong started and in the same year the College for was started. It was successfully completed in 1996. Today the monastery is a school for the study of , metaphysics, mathematics and poetry.

This afternoon we shall visit the fascinating Zorig Chusum (School of Thirteen Arts and Crafts) where boys and girls are trained in traditional Bhutanese arts as diverse as thangkha painting, fine embroidery and boot- making.

We also visit the National Textile Museum, inaugurated under the patronage of Her Majesty the Queen Ashi in June 2001. The museum houses a striking collection of this traditional art, including many, varied very fine pieces. Its comprehensive display of textiles and costumes reflects the diversity of textiles and regional dress in Bhutan.

Our final visit is to the Institute of Traditional Medicine Services, located on a hilltop above the Traditional Arts Center and the National Library. The Institute supplies traditional medicines and medical services, trains doctors, and conducts research on traditional medicinal plants to identify the ingredients and develop new products. The Institute has a library dating back to around 1616. The books and recipes were collected from monasteries where scholars had preserved the medical lore. (Overnight Thimphu) BLD

Paro - 3 nights Day 12: Tuesday 14 October, Thimphu – Paro Paro Rinpung Dzong, Paro Drukgyel Dzong (Fortress of Victory)

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Kyichu Lhakhang Temple

This morning we make the return journey to Paro. On arrival we visit the impressive Paro Rinpung Dzong, ‘The Heap of Jewel Fortress’, one of the finest examples of this form in Bhutanese architecture. Built in 1646 by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal, the first temporal ruler of Bhutan, it now houses the Paro monastic body and the office of the Dzongda (governor) and Thrimpon (Judge) of the Paro district.

In the afternoon we shall visit the ruined Drukgyel Dzong (Fortress of Drukpa (Bhutanese) Victory) that was constructed to commemorate a victory over Tibetan invaders in 1644. A butter lamp fire destroyed it in 1951. Drukgyel Dzong represents the spirit of Bhutanese identity based on a unique blend of religion and politics forged in its struggle against its dominating and hostile neighbour Tibet in the seventeenth century. Its location, structure and the recently discovered passages to water sources also show the strategic military tactics used by the Bhutanese against Tibetan and Mongolian invaders.

Nearby we also visit the seventh-century , one of the most sacred shrines in Bhutan. Reputedly built by the Yarlung King Songtsen Gampo, Kyichu represents early Tibetan temple architecture and iconography. Throughout its history, it has been, as a Bhutan song sums up, ‘the seat of hundreds of holy beings’. Kyichu Lhakhang has one of three reliquary stupas that contain the ashes of Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche. Born in the Denkhok Valley at Kham Derge, Eastern Tibet in 1910 to a family directly descended from the ninth-century King Trisong Detsen, Dilgo Khyentse Rinpoche’s father was a minister to the King of Derge. When he was seven years old, he was publicly recognized as the reincarnation of Jamyang Khyentse Wangpo by Shechen Gyaltsap Rinpoche (1871-1926) at Shechen, one of the six principal monasteries of the Nyingmapa School. After many years of preparation, he became an important teacher in Tibet. The considers him one of his masters. In 1959, the Chinese takeover of Tibet forced him to flee to Bhutan where, under royal patronage, he became the country’s foremost teacher. He also taught in Nepal, throughout South East Asia, and in the West. He died in 1991, leaving a considerable corpus of scholarly, spiritual and poetic writings. His reincarnation, a young man in his early teens, today lives in Paro receiving monastic and spiritual training. (Overnight Paro) BLD

Day 13: Wednesday 15 October, Paro – Haa Valley – Paro Haa Valley Lhakhang Karpo (White Temple) Lhakhang Nagpo (Black Temple)

Chele La Pass (with possible visit to Kila Gompa Nunnery) This morning we drive from Paro to the Haa Valley via the scenic Chele La Pass (3800m) one of the highest motor passes in Bhutan. The drive is through dense spruce and larch forests, where hues change according to the seasons. On a clear day, there are spectacular views of Mount Jomolhari (7314m) Jichu Drake and adjoining peaks to the North West.

After lunch we visit two famous monasteries: Lhakhang Karpo (White Temple) and Lhakhang Nagpo (Black Temple). The central shrine in Lhakhang Nagpo is said to be almost identical to that of the Jokang temple in Lhasa. Legend has it that local deities assisted in the construction of Lhakhanga Karpo. The Bhutanese come here to offer prayers and adorn the hills with prayer flags to pray to the Mountain Gods. In the late afternoon we make the return journey to Paro.

On the return journey we will stop at Chele La pass for the group to take a short stroll. If there is time and for those who wish we can make a detour to Kila Gompa nunnery located on the cliffs below Chele La Pass at about 3500m. There are seven small temples and several retreat huts built into a dizzying cliffside, a days

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walk from town, where some 30 to 70 nuns live in self-imposed isolation. The route up to the nunnery offers great views of Paro valley below and the Jele Dzong across on the ridge. However the walk is a little tough and it depends on the timing for the day whether we will be able to include this. If not the views from the pass itself will capture the landscape perfectly. (Overnight Paro) BLD

Day 14: Thursday 16 October, Paro Taktshang Monastery Dumtse Lhakhang Temple

We spend the day walking to the incredible ‘Tiger’s Nest’, the sacred Taktshang Monastery that clings to the rock face 900m above the valley floor. Taktshang is one of Bhutan’s holiest sites and draws pilgrims not only from Bhutan but also from neighbouring Buddhist countries. In the eighth century, Guru Rinpoche (‘Precious Master’), who is revered in Tibet and Bhutan almost as a second Buddha, is said to have flown to the site riding on his consort Yeshe Tsogyal, whom he had transformed into a flying tigress. The monastery is built around Guru Rinpoche’s original cave where he meditated for three months. We will start our slow ascent to the monastery at 8am; some by horse (for those who have pre-requested this), others by foot. En- route we will stop at the Taktshang cafeteria that affords a spectacular view of the monastery where we will partake of a substantial morning tea. The cafe owner will provide a demonstration of musical instruments for those who choose not to continue to the top while those that do continue their journey. We shall eat lunch at the Taktshang cafeteria during our descent.

During our return to Paro we visit Dumtse Lhakhang, a temple built by Thangtong Gyalpo, the so-called ‘iron bridge builder’. Thangtong Gyalpo is believed to have begun his career as an engineer inadvertently when he was refused a ferry passage because of his eccentric appearance. He consequently is said to have embarked on a campaign to build bridges and ferry crossings. In 1430, aided by two blacksmiths, he forged iron, said to be ‘the thickness of an eight year-old boy’s arm’, into chain links, with which he attempted to span the Chusul River. He ran out of funds and so, drawing upon a tradition of itinerant religious storytellers, he formed the first operatic troupe in Tibet to raise money to complete his bridge. Thangtong Gyalpo and his troupe of seven beautiful sisters continued to tour Tibet raising money to construct, a further fifty-eight iron chain bridges and a hundred and eight ferry crossing stations. (Overnight Paro) BLD

Day 15: Friday 17 October, Depart Paro Fly Paro-Bangkok

Early in the morning your guide will accompany you to the airport to see you off onto your flight to Bangkok and wish you Tashi Delek (goodbye and good luck). B

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Accommodation 15 Days in Bhutan

Basically Bhutan's hotels would be described as 3-star standard, mainly built in traditional style and with plenty of character. Good hotels are few and demand for them is great, so competition for rooms, particularly at festival time, is intense, and we cannot always get our chosen hotels even if we book many months ahead.

As for facilities, in general hotels will have basic amenities such as tea and coffee in the rooms, but not a mini-bar or fridge. Many will have a TV. All have en-suite bathrooms, but they will not offer the range of hotel toiletries that you would get in developed countries. Plumbing/heating can be somewhat erratic. Hotels will have hot water (note however it is not uncommon to have periods in the day when hot water is unavailable, especially in Bumthang) and most will have heaters in the rooms, although not central heating. Hotels will have dining areas where food is usually served in buffet style, and may have a bar, but beyond that facilities are limited. In one or two places there may be access to Internet from reception or in a special room, but it will not necessarily be available in the hotel rooms themselves. Generally double rooms are not available - they tend to be twin rooms - with two single beds. Single rooms may be requested – and are subject to availability and payment of the single supplement.

Guests will not be able to dial-direct from their rooms, but reception can place an international call for you. As you go east there may not be phones in rooms; in Paro and Thimphu there will be. International roaming does not work in Bhutan, but you can purchase a local SIM card and use it in an unlocked phone.

The following is a list of the hotels we plan to use for the tour. The final hotel list will not be confirmed until approximately 3 months prior to the commencement of the tour, and we cannot be guaranteed that we will secure the hotel of our first choice. For this reason we have given below a list of our preferred hotel options:

Thimphu (2 nights): Namgay Heritage Hotel - this charming new hotel was opened in 2009, and is located 10 minutes walk from the Norzin Lam Street (the town centre). www.nhh.bt Wangdi (1 night): Kichu Resort - located out of town, in a beautiful setting beside the Dang Chu River, with good food and relaxing atmosphere. Bumthang (4 nights): Hotel Ugyen Ling - the first Bhutanese owned Deluxe Hotel in the valley (opened in 2009) and it is located just next to the historic Wangdichholing palace. One can enjoy great views of the mountains, surrounding valleys, and the Jakar Dzong or the White Bird fortress, from the room balconies. The hotel has 20 beautifully designed deluxe rooms with living room and wood burning stoves called Bukhari. The hotel offers many facilities including a business centre with broadband internet and a traditional hot stone bath. Trongsa (1 night): Raven Crown Resort - located 13 km from Trongsa, it stands on a hilltop overlooking the entire Trongsa valley including the Trongsa Dzong and the Ta-Dzong. The Resort is built among Oak and Rhododendron trees and has a natural and tranquil environment. The hotel offers 37 deluxe rooms, facilities include a spa and swimming pool. www.ravencrownresort.com Punakha (1 night): Meri Puensum Resort - located approximately 5 kms from Punakha village. The 20 rooms are simple but comfortable and spacious with clean and plain bathrooms. Many have balconies and there are lovely views down across the river, the valley and the farmhouses and paddy fields in the other direction. meripuensum.bt Thimphu (2 nights): Namgay Heritage Hotel as above Paro (3 nights): Gangtey Palace - once the residence of the Penlop of Paro, this 19th century palace- style building is one of the most charming hotels in town. The 20 rooms are simple and comfortable; many have wonderful views over the valley and the dzong. www.gangteypalace.net

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Tour Map

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Tour Price & Inclusions AUD $8380.00 Land Content Only - Early-Bird Special: book before 31 March 2014

AUD $8580.00 Land Content Only

AUD $850.00 Single Supplement

For competitive Economy, Business or First Class airfares and/or group airfares please contact ASA for further information.

Tour Price (Land Content Only) includes:

Airfare with : flying Bangkok - Paro (Day 1), Paro - Bangkok (Day 15) Accommodation in twin-share rooms with private facilities in 3-star hotels. All meals, indicated in the itinerary, where: B=breakfast, L=lunch & D=evening meal, including tea and coffee Transportation by climate-controlled motorcoach Airport-hotel transfers if travelling on the ASA 'designated' flights Porterage at hotels (not at airports) Lecture and site-visit program Tour notes Entrance fees and permits Bottled water during all meals and during site excursions USD $50.00 Visa and TDF (Tourism Development Fee) Tips to National guide, local guides & coach driver

Tour Price (Land Content Only) does not include:

Airfare: Australia-Bangkok, Bangkok - Australia Personal spending money Airport-hotel transfers if not travelling on the ASA 'designated' flights Luggage in excess of 20 kg (44 lbs) Travel insurance

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Physical Endurance & Practical Information Physical Ratings

The number of flags is a guide to the degree of difficulty of ASA tours relative to each other (not to those of other tour companies). It is neither absolute nor literal. One flag is given to the least taxing tours, six to the most. Flags are allocated, above all, according to the amount of walking and standing each tour involves. Nevertheless all ASA tours require that participants have a good degree of fitness enabling 2-3 hours walking or 1-1.5 hours standing still on any given site visit or excursion. Many sites are accessed by climbing slopes or steps and have uneven terrain.

Bhutan has certain particular conditions which travellers should understand before enrolling in this tour:

Road conditions: there is basically one road that runs from west to east that we use to travel the entire trip. In some places it is two lanes wide and a well-laid road, in others it is narrower and bumpier and will seem quite precarious to those not used to mountain travel. Everywhere the road is on a steep hillside or cliff edge and it is winding and full of ups and downs. But the drivers are very experienced and used to the conditions and they drive slowly and carefully. Tourist accidents are practically unheard of. Transport: The coaches used are modern and air-conditioned but the road conditions mean that the drive is not always comfortable. Distances are not far, but driving times are long, so travellers should be prepared for this. Having said that, the wonderful scenery and landscape more than makes up for this and helps to take your mind off the sometimes precarious nature of the road! Driving Times: Distances are not given because these are not really of much relevance as we can never drive more than about 30km per hour, so what seems like a short distance can take all day to drive. The times we have given you are therefore a more accurate measure. However, note that these are average times and in practice can vary widely depending on the weather, road conditions and time spent at stops - the times given are accurate in terms of driving time as opposed to actual journey time which is more variable. Ignoring the days in and around town, driving times are roughly as follows:

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Day Route (Driving Time) 1 Paro-Thimphu (1.5 hours) 3 Thimphu-Wangdi (2.5 hours) 4 Wangdi-Trongsa (4 hours); Trongsa-Bumthang (3 hours) 6 Bumthang-Tang Valley - Bumthang (4 hours) 7 Bumthang-Ura - Bumthang (4 hours) 8 Bumthang-Trongsa (3 hours) 9 Trongsa-Punakha (4.5 hours) 10 Punakha-Thimphu (2.5 hours) 12 Thimphu - Paro (1.5 hours) 13 Paro-Haa-Paro (5 hours)

Altitude Sickness: The altitude in Bhutan is higher than many people are used to. Though most visitors will have no problem adjusting, altitude sickness may be a problem for certain people. Our cultural tour does not reach altitudes higher than 3800 metres. The high spots on the drive are mostly marked on the itinerary - Dochu La Pass at just over 3000m, Pele La pass at 3420m, Gangtey village at 3300m and Chele La pass at 3800m. The towns are generally lower than this - ranging from Thimphu and Paro at about 2300m to Punakha and Wangdi at around 1250m and then Trongsa and Bumthang at 2180 and 2580m respectively. Gangtey is the only place where two nights are spent at altitude and most people should be acclimatised by that point in the trip. Please consult with your doctor or local TMVC centre for further information on altitude sickness and prevention. Accommodation: the tour includes 6 hotel changes in accommodation of 3-star standard. The hotels we use are carefully selected to offer both Western comfort and Bhutanese character.

Physical Challenges

Everywhere you go in Bhutan you will encounter steps, rocky and uneven ground, slopes and steep walks up or down. There are six places in the itinerary where we have included a walk. These are obviously optional but we would hope most of the group would wish to participate. To give you an idea of what is required:

Day 6: Ugyenchholing Palace and Museum in the Tang Valley - This walk, over uneven ground, traverses villages, crosses two creeks and there is one short steeper section. It takes about 1 hour/45 minutes each way (note optional transfer by coach may be available). Day 8: Mangdu Foot Trail - this trail takes around two hours to hike - down the valley side, across a traditional cantilevered bridge over the river, walking through thick mixed forest, and up the other side of the valley. Those who don't feel like taking the hike can go on the bus and wait at the viewpoint to the dzong for the others to arrive Day 9: Chimi Lhakhang - This is a reasonably gentle walk and not steep and takes about an hour or so. Note: access to the Lhakhang is now possible by road; some participants may prefer to take the coach, or only walk one direction. Day 11: Tango Monastery - A 1.5 hour uphill walk over uneven ground through beautiful mountain rainforest. Day 13: Kila Gompa Nunnery/Chele La Pass - This walk is subject to weather conditions, and the general fitness of the group. Options include driving uphill to the monastery, and walking back. Alternatively your guide may suggest a short walk from Chele La itself. Day 14: Taktshang Monastery** - is a long steep climb. There is a cafeteria half way up and group members may wish not to continue beyond here. This is still worth it as it will give you a great view of the monastery. Others more determined will make it all the way. It is difficult to give timings for this - fitter people make it all the way up to the top in an hour; others take over two hours to get half-

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way. An average walk might be three hours up and one hour down, with another hour looking round the monastery. Note: Participants will be given the option (at a small charge) to take the first section of this walk by horse. ASA will contact group members prior to departure to discuss this option.

**The steep climbing is done at altitude which makes it harder, and participants need to be fit enough to climb the steps to the dzongs and walk on uneven ground and steep paths.

It is important to remember that ASA programs are group tours, and slow walkers affect everyone in the group. As the group must move at the speed of the slowest member, the amount of time spent at a site may be reduced if group members cannot maintain a moderate walking pace. ASA tours should not present any problem for active people who can manage day-to-day walking and stair-climbing. However, if you have any doubts about your ability to manage on a program, please ask your ASA travel consultant whether this is a suitable tour for you.

Please note: it is a condition of travel that all participants agree to accept ASA’s directions in relation to their suitability to participate in activities undertaken on the tour, and that ASA retains the sole discretion to direct a tour participant to refrain from a particular activity on part of the tour. For further information please refer to the Terms and Conditions section.

Culture and Customs

The Bhutanese are generally tolerant of Westerners and don't expect that they will necessarily follow, or understand, local customs, so they are not quick to take offence, but it is worth bearing in mind the following:

It is polite to take any items offered to you (or to hold something out to another person) with two hands. This is also often done when shaking hands. If you only use one hand to take something from someone make sure it is the right hand. Follow your guide's lead on this – it is customary to remove your shoes on entering the important rooms of temples (and indeed private houses). It is also customary for Bhutanese to leave a small amount of money on the altar – you will see people touching the note to their forehead first. If a monk is present he will then pour some holy water from a small jug into your hand – if you wish you could make the gesture of taking a sip and then spreading the rest over your head. Don't touch people on the head or feet (although this rule does not apply to small children), and don't point your feet at anyone. If you are sitting on the floor try to sit cross-legged or kneel with your feet behind you. Don't point at people or religious objects or pictures. If you are indicating something in a painting, use your whole hand, palm upwards, pointing the tips of your fingers in the relevant direction. If you are waving someone towards you use your hand palm downwards. Remember that you should always turn prayer wheels or navigate round a chorten, religious monument or temple in a clockwise direction.

Practical Information

Medical Requirements: Vaccinations are required for Bhutan. Participants will be required to see their doctor or a local Travellers' Medical Vaccination Centre (TMVC) at least six weeks before departure. Travellers Medical & Vaccination Centres website: www.tmvc.com.au TMVC is an Australian & New Zealand network of clinics, which specializes in travel medicine. Also available are medical travelling kits.

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Money: The Bhutanese unit of currency is called the ngultrum and is pegged to the Indian rupee. It is generally not available outside Bhutan. For spending money you should bring American dollars cash if possible as they are the easiest currency to change. Travellers' cheques are not really worthwhile, unless you are planning to spend a lot on souvenirs, as you will not be likely to be carrying large sums into the country with most of the costs of the trip paid in advance. If you do want to buy souvenirs, bear in mind that only Visa credit cards are accepted, and then only in a few of the souvenir outlets in Thimphu, but rarely elsewhere, and it is not possible to draw US$ cash on them anywhere in Bhutan. ATM's are now available in theory in every district. There is also a machine at the airport. The limit on withdrawals is 15,000 Nu which is around US$300, but only local currency withdrawals are available. Personal items: You can't count on getting any of your necessary personal items, medicines or toiletries in Bhutan so bring what you need with you. This includes camera film, memory cards and batteries. It is also worth knowing that Thimphu unfortunately suffers from the same problem as Kathmandu in the shape of hundreds of stray dogs who like to commune loudly at night – so if you are a light sleeper you might pack some earplugs! Smoking: Except in a few districts in the east of the country where there is a total ban on tobacco, smoking is still allowed in Bhutan but the sale of tobacco is prohibited. So if you need to smoke, bring your own and be prepared to be taxed on your supplies on entry to the country. Water: It is not advisable to drink untreated water in Bhutan. Bottled water will be provided to tour participants on a daily basis, and is included in the tour price. Communications: It may not surprise you to hear that mobiles and blackberries don't work in Bhutan. If you want, you can purchase a sim card for the B-mobile network and use this in your phone. This will work across most of the country, at least in the towns. NB – Vodaphone network is now available on roaming in Bhutan so clients who use that network may get a signal. You need to make sure your phone is unlocked from your home network in order to use a Bhutan sim card. Weather: October should be warm during the day but can be colder in the late afternoons onwards and especially at night so it is important that tour members bring plenty of warm clothing and thermal underwear. The temperature range will be between 18 and 26°C during the day. At night it can go as low as 5°C in Bumthang and 7°C in Paro. In Punakha and Wangdi it is considerably warmer with night temperatures of 14-18°C. When the sun is out it can still be quite strong during the day, so you may feel warm, but as soon as you turn the corner out of the sun, or the wind gets up it cools very quickly so it is important that travellers are prepared for this. It is good to bring layers to adapt to changing temperatures during the course of the day.

Visa Requirements

Australian, New Zealand and British passport holders will require a visa for both Bhutan and India. ASA will assist tour members in obtaining their visa. Application forms will be forwarded to tour members in due course.

What to Bring

A detailed packing list will be provided to participants with their final documents. Below are a few pointers:

It is appreciated if you dress reasonably smartly for festivals eg no jeans or sport-shorts. You should also ensure you are respectfully dressed when visiting dzongs. Applicable for the Paro Dzong and Takshang only: Shorts and T-shirts are no longer allowed. Short skirts are also prohibited. Short sleeved shirts with collars are fine. Any shoes with socks are acceptable (including trainers), but slippers are not allowed (for which we would read flip flops or sandals). From mid-Autumn through to mid-Spring you should expect the nights to be cold so make sure you

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have some warm clothing – layers work best because of the frequent temperature changes through the day. At these times of year you should definitely plan to take some sets of thermal underwear and thick socks as it can get quite cold at night with the altitude. Please pack at least one warm jacket and a jumper. Day excursions involve walking on uneven terrain which may be rocky or muddy. Light, comfortable walking shoes are essential. Don’t forget sunscreen and lip protection – the sun can be very strong. If you want to charge electronic equipment during your stay you should bring an adaptor suited to India – they have round pins, slightly larger than those used in Europe. The voltage in Bhutan is also the same as India - 230V, 50 cycles AC.

Further information

Tour members will receive prior to departure practical notes which include information on visa requirements, health, photography, weather, clothing and what to pack, custom regulations, bank hours, currency regulations, electrical appliances and food. The Department of Foreign Affairs & Trade website has advice for travellers see: www.smartraveller.gov.au

Booking Conditions Make a Reservation

ASA RESERVATION FORM

Please complete the ASA RESERVATION FORM and send it to Australians Studying Abroad together with your deposit of $500.00 per person in cash or cheque (payable to Australians Studying Abroad). It is important that you read the Terms and Conditions at this stage, and that you sign the reservation form. If you are booking within 80 days of the tour full payment is required.

Refund of deposit, less $385.00 service fee ($350.00 + $35.00 GST) per person, will be given when cancellation is made before Friday 6 June 2014. Your deposit is non-refundable after this date. For further cancellation conditions please refer to the section entitled 'TERMS & CONDITIONS'.

Travel Insurance

It is a condition of travel that you are covered by some form of international travel insurance. Note, travel insurance may not cover costs incurred due to a pre-existing illness or other conditions. Your insurance can be arranged through ASA. All participants must provide no later than 75 days prior to the commencement of the program: a copy of your travel insurance certificate the emergency telephone no. of your insurance company

Passport Details

All participants must provide no later than 75 days prior to the commencement of the program a photocopy of the front page of their current passport.

Single Supplement

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Payment of the single supplement will ensure accommodation in a single room throughout the tour. The number of single rooms available is extremely limited. People wishing to take this supplement are therefore advised to book well in advance.

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ASA Reservation Form

Please complete one form in block letters and sign, for each participant. Additional copies may be requested from ASA or this form may be photocopied (both sides please). Parental signature is required for participants under 18 years of age. Please mail this form with the appropriate deposit (cheques should be made payable to Australians Studying Abroad P/L) to: P.O. Box 8285, ARMADALE, VICTORIA, 3143. On receipt of this reservation form and deposit, ASA will process your booking and send you tour confirmation. Tour Name

Air Arrangements Please circle your preference: A. I wish ASA to book my airfare using the designated flight from Australia to connect with the arrival group transfer. B. I wish ASA to book my airfare, however they will be independent of the group travel arrangements. I wish to depart from (city in Australia) on (date)

The following is an indication of the itinerary I wish to follow (eg-Melbourne to Amsterdam for 5 days then to Paris for 4 days, then to join the tour starting in Rome). Your ASA travel consultant will be in contact with you to discuss your options.

C. I will be arranging my air fare independently and taking the Land Content Only option.

Tour Accommodation Please book the following accommodation: (Circle your preference) A. As included in the basic tour price. Please indicate your preference: [ ] Twin-bedded room or [ ] Double room** ** Many hotels do not provide double-bedded rooms, in this case you will be confirmed in a twin-bedded room.

I wish to share with: Note: Twin-share accommodation for participants travelling without a companion can usually be arranged provided adequate notice is given to ASA. In the event that this is not possible, payment of the single supplement will be required.

B. In single room accommodation. (Supp. $ )

ADDITIONAL ARRANGEMENTS Should you require additional travel arrangements, such as rail, accommodation, hire car or tours, please contact your ASA consultant.

Correspondence The fastest way for ASA to correspond with you about your travel plans is by email. Please indicate your preferred method of receiving correspondence from ASA [ ] Postal Mail [ ] Email Address (please print clearly): ______

HOW DID YOU FIND OUT ABOUT ASA ? Would you kindly circle from where you first heard about ASA and the tour you are booking on: • ASA Mailing List • Stephen Crafti • UWA Extension • Friend/word of mouth • Look Magazine • University Department • Kenneth W. Park • NGV Magazine • National Trust Magazine • Susannah Fullerton • Gardening Australia Magazine •La Trobe University Alumni. Member No.______• Sabrina Hahn • Open Gardening Scheme • John Patrick • ABC Radio • Richard Heathcote/Carrick Hill • Friends of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Melbourne Other

ASA Reservation Form

APPLICANT DETAILS ** WARNING: All travel documents must be issued with your correct passport name!** TITLE K Mr K Mrs K Ms K Miss K Dr K Other FIRST NAME (as in passport) Preferred FIRST NAME MIDDLE NAME (as in passport) SURNAME (as in passport) POSTAL ADDRESS STATE POSTCODE TEL. (AH) ( ) TEL. (BH) ( ) FAX ( ) Mobile Tel: E-MAIL address Date of birth: GENDER Male K Female K Smoker K Non-Smoker K

It is important that all information regarding dietary requests is correct. Please complete the following carefully: Airline meals: K Standard K Vegetarian (incl. eggs & dairy) K Vegetarian (no eggs or dairy) K Other (specify) Meals during the tour: Please tick (¸) if you require a standard meal on tour - no special dietary requirements: K Standard tour meals Please tick (¸) if you CAN NOT eat any of the following: Kfish Kpoultry Kred meat Kdairy product s Keggs Kpork Please specify if you have any further dietary requirements or food allergies:

Frequent Flyer Membership # (if taking group airfare): Name of Airline Airline Seat preference (please note request only):

PASSPORT DETAILS Increased world security requires that your travel documents and all in-country local reservations exactly match your passport name. It is therefore essential that if you have a current passport with at least 6 months validity from date of return into Australia a photocopy of the first page is sent to ASA with this reservation form. Please tick the applicable box below: I have enclosed a copy of my current valid passport please tick (¸) I have travelled with ASA since January 2008 and ASA should have a copy of my current passport on file please tick (¸) My passport is not current or does not have at least 6 months validity from date of return into Australia please tick (¸) ** I am applying for a new passport and will forward a copy to ASA as soon as I have received my new passport please tick (¸) ** ** If a copy of your passport is not enclosed, please advise your Nationality:

MEDICAL CONDITIONS ASA’s tours require, on occasion, a substantial amount of physical exertion. The purpose of seeking this information is to assist ASA in determining the suitability of a tour participant for a particular tour, and to address how ASA may be able to make ‘reasonable accommodation’ to cater for those tour participants, where only a minor modification may be needed. The information will be treated in the strictest confidence. If ASA has any concerns based on the information provided by you, it will contact you to discuss those concerns and may request further information or clarification of the information previously provided. Please outline whether you suffer from any medical conditions in any of the following areas: Respiratory Spinal Cardiac, including Blood Pressure Allergies Sight/Sound Mobility Any other condition which may affect your ability to participate on this tour?

Person to notify in case of emergency Name Relationship to Traveller Address Telephone If any details requested on this form are not yet available, please still forward your form and communicate these details at a later date. I have enclosed a deposit of $ for this tour. I understand that this deposit is subject to the cancellation fees as outlined in the BOOKING CONDITIONS section of the tour itinerary.

LIABILITY RELEASE: Please read carefully and sign the following: I have read the itinerary and related information pertaining to this tour of which I am a participant that has been designed and conducted by Australians Studying Abroad Pty Ltd. I am aware of the terms and conditions of the tour relating to refunds and cancellations, responsibility and liability. I understand that there are inherent dangers and risks that may occur with this tour, known or unknown, relating to but not limited to air, coach, car and ship travel, walks, camera equipment, accidents and/or illnesses and acts of nature, man or God. I also understand that the itinerary, accommodation and guest lecturers scheduled for this tour may change due to unforeseen circumstances such as illness, political considerations or personal emergencies. In consideration of the right to participate in this tour, I hereby release Australians Studying Abroad Pty Ltd and its agents, associates or related parties from all responsibility for damages, injuries, losses or delays due to any reason whatsoever and hereby assume all risks and dangers in connection with the tour. Date Signature(s)

DIRECT DEPOSIT OR CREDIT CARD PAYMENT OPTION Mail or Email Payment Advice / Credit Card Authorisation to ASA

CREDIT CARD PAYMENT DIRECT DEPOSIT Should you wish to pay ASA by any of the ASA offers you a direct payment or internet banking following credit cards the following fees will payment option. This allows you to transfer your apply: payment directly from your bank account to our bank account. Please follow the procedures below: Mastercard and American Express 1.95%

Visa and Bank Card (Australia only) 1.95% 1. You will need to provide your bank with Diners Club 2.70% ASA’s bank details (see below) and the

exact amount you wish to transfer. Please debit my 2. Your bank will ask you for a reference number. Mastercard + Please quote your last name or your mobile American Express + phone number as the reference number. 3. Your bank will provide you with a Visa + confirmation number which you need to Bankcard (Australia only) + include below.

Diners Club + 4. Once your transfer has been actioned please complete the following and fax or email this document back to ASA. Authority to debit my Credit Card 5. If you wish to go directly into any ANZ bank for the amount due plus the applicable credit card fee. to direct deposit your payment into our

NAME OF ASA TOUR OR COURSE bank account you will still be asked the following details. Please then complete the information below and forward to ASA immediately. Credit Card Number 6. Any fees levied by the banks are at your expense.

Expiry Date Australians Studying Abroad bank details Security code on back of card Bank ANZ Bank the card is linked to: eg – NAB or ANZ Branch 420 St Kilda Road, Melbourne Vic Swift Code ANZBAU3M Type of Credit Card: eg Gold, Platinum etc BSB 013-423 Account No 3472-32759

Amount including cc fee $ NAME OF ASA TOUR OR COURSE Cardholders Name

Card Holders Billing Address Travellers Name Address City Amount Transferred $ State Postcode Bank Confirmation No. Country Reference you used Mobile or last name Phone recommended Email Date Money Transferred / / Card Holders Signature Travellers Signature

Date / / Date / /

CONDITIONS OF CREDIT CARD PAYMENT

Monies Paid to Australians Studying Abroad P/L Refunds It is a condition of the acceptance of any booking Unused documents for which refund is sought must that all monies paid to Australians Studying be returned to ASA. Refunds are subject to airline Abroad (ASA) may be dispersed by ASA as and and other operator terms and conditions as well as when it sees fit for or in respect of the services to outgoings incurred by ASA. Because of procedures be provided or fees payable to suppliers or these can sometimes take a minimum of 10 weeks carriers, and the payment of a deposit or charge to be processed. card authorization for travel or related fees shall be deemed to be a direction by the client to ASA General Information to disburse such monies as aforesaid. This authorisation is valid until your credit card changes (ie: replaced due to lost/stolen card), Prices and Exchange Rate expires or is revoked in accordance with the Card Price justifications for travel are expressed in Account Agreement. We shall require you to sign a Australian Dollars and are based on foreign fresh authorization if the card number as changed currency exchange rates, tariffs, taxes and fares due to replacement, if it has expired or if you have valid at time of quoting. These are subject to revoked this authorization in writing, but then alteration if there are fluctuations in rates of subsequently decide to use the Signature-on-File exchange, tariffs, taxes or fares, or for other facility. If the credit card issued to you is cancelled cause, at any time. or authorization for the card is refused, you will pay ASA any amounts outstanding for travel Variations Of Conditions services. ASA reserves the right to vary these Signature- These terms and conditions in no way change or on-File Conditions at any time, but no such affect your responsibility and obligations as defined variation shall be binding unless made or in the Card Account Agreement issued to you. In confirmed in writing. the event any provision conflicts with a provision of the Card Account Agreement, the Card Account Responsibility Clause Agreement shall prevail.

ASA acts as agent for the supplier or service Privacy of Information provider in booking or arranging all transport, Your personal details are safeguarded by privacy sightseeing, hotel accommodation and other law. ASA collects personal information from you in travel-related services. ASA does not own, order to organise your travel arrangements. We manage, control or operate any supplier of may: services. All coupons, receipts and tickets are issued subject to the terms and conditions  Share the information with companies related to ASA. specified by the suppliers. By accepting the  Disclose the information to various third parties coupons and tickets and utilizing their services, in the course of providing services to you or as you agree that neither ASA nor any of its may be required by law or use the information for subsidiary companies or representatives shall be other purposes where you consent to this. You can liable for any loss, injury or damages to you or upon request see your personal information which your belongings or otherwise in connection with we hold by contacting us. We would welcome any any accommodation, transport or other services feedback from you to correct any inaccuracies. You or resulting directly or indirectly from occurrences can also access a detailed statement of ASA’s beyond its control, including breakdown in privacy policies on its web-site at (web site details) equipment, strikes, theft, delay or cancellation or or obtain further information relating to ASA change in itinerary or schedule, etc. Also privacy policies by contacting us. remember that travel documents, if necessary, Responsibility Clause and compliance with customs regulations, if You have the option of not providing certain of the applicable, are your responsibility. information requested by ASA. However, you

should note that this may prevent ASA from

all of its services to you.

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